FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  To Blow-Off Or Not? (John DeCarlo)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #808 (January 23, 1992) (Richard Foulk)
  Interesting Experience (Steve Anthony)
  Re. Old Carboys (Michael Biondo)
  re: Homebrew Digest #801 (January 14, 1992) (John A. Palkovic)
  Grain Mill Discovery!!!!! (CITJLF)
  Brewpub laws (changing) (jay marshall 283-5903)
  Shipping beer (John Freeman)
  zero-g fermentation (Sean J. Caron)
  Eisbock? (Chris Shenton)
  Re:  blow-off (Walter H. Gude)
  Cheap Soda Kegs ("John Cotterill")
  Re: Old Carboys  (gkushmer)
  Oak Chips in an IPA (ingr!b11!mspe5!guy)
  Zero-G Brewing, Root Beer ? (Richard Childers)
  Re: blow-off (korz)
  Re: Yeast Starters / Faucet Adapters (Peter Glen Berger)
  CO2 Volume/temp/pressure chart. (key)
  PUMPING BEER. ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  RIMS Part 2 (Alan Gerhardt)
  The neoprohibitionists are at it again. ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  lauter tuns (Brian Bliss)
  rye grains (Brian Bliss)
  Legal status of homebrewing elsewhere (Ken Dobson)


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[Please do not send me requests for back issues!]
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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thursday, 23 Jan 1992 08:01:59 EST
From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: To Blow-Off Or Not?

>From: Alan Mayman <maymanal at scvoting.fvo.osd.mil>

>I would like to enquire about blow off tubes.

>In Mr. Millers book he views the act as wastefull and possibly
>unsanitary (where the tube may provide a path for bacteria to
>travel back into one's fermenter).  However we also have Mr.
>Papazian, a proponent of the blow off method, who states the
>process removes fusel oils (?) and other unsavory gack from your
>bubbling brew.

This is still a subject of some controversy.  Kinney Baughman and
I have corresponded on this subject, with both of us recalling a
study done, possibly at UC Davis, to which we can't find a
reference.

As you can see with Miller and Papazian, people believe different
things.  However, it does seem that you can brew really good beer
either way, so while blow-off may or may not be
harmful/beneficial, the exact benefits/harms are not well known.

Blow-off is not a common technique among commercial brewers, but
their techniques are different enough from homebrewing techniques
that this comparison may not be useful.

If I had to try and say something relatively unbiased in
conclusion, I would say that if you don't use a secondary
fermenter, you may well benefit from having stuff removed during
blow-off.  OTOH, if you rack to a secondary fermenter shortly
after high kraeusen, you are leaving behind a fair amount of
trub in the primary, thereby avoiding any need for blow-off.

Anyone know if there are any statistics on award-winners and
percentage of those who use blow-off?

Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org
           (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org)
Fidonet:  1:109/131

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 03:36:53 HST
From: richard at pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #808 (January 23, 1992)

>>richard at pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) says (referencing Miller's CHHB):
>>> He also says that chloroform is another name for THM.
>
>>IFF Miller says that, he blows much of his credibility as a chemist.
>
>As a matter of fact he doesn't say that, he says that chloroform is
>a THM, and that the water analysis doesn't distinguish between THM's.
>

My apologies for misquoting Dave Miller.

I just got a copy of his book a couple weeks ago, after seeing many good
reviews in HBD and rec.crafts.brewing on the Usenet.

Great book.

- -- 
Richard Foulk		richard at pegasus.com

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 09:20:16 EST
From: Steve Anthony <steveo at Think.COM>
Subject: Interesting Experience

I brewed up a dopplebok a couple of weeks ago and had an interesting
experience. I'm working my way up to all-grain (I do partial grain now) and
had made use of some new equipment. When I was done, I had about 3.5g of
wort and added that to 1.5g of water. My method todate has been to let this
settle overnight, and then siphon the beer off the settled trub and then
pitch the yeast. I've found that this has led to a minimum of sediment in
the finished product.  However, my brews have had some infection problems
in the past few batches, so I've avoided the plastic pails I was using and
just pitched directly into the carboy that had the beer, trub and all. I
had waited until the beer was about 70F before pitching, and there was a
good 2-3" of trub at the bottom of the carboy.

After three days, nothing. Relaxing, I looked at my logs from the previous
batch, where I used the same yeast (WYeast, Bavarian Lager). It had taken 3
days for that to show signs of activity. So I waited. After 5 days, still
nothing. Now, worried, I reasoned that I had a bottom fermenting yeast that
was down there in the trub looking for things to eat and not finding
anything. So I got a siphon tube, sanitized it and stirred the muck up. Two
days later, it was off and running. It's still (1 week later) going crazy!
The 2-3" of trub has been blown up into suspension by the activity of the
yeast. It is absolutely amazing to watch.

So I think I solved the immediate problem; this batch. But the longer term
problem remains. How to avoid getting the trub in the carboy. How do you
netbrewers deal with this? I was thinking of a 6g carboy, adjusting the
recipe to fill it and then after the trub had settled, siphon to a 5g and
pitch, but there must be a cheaper and easier way. Ideas?

Steve Anthony                     |  "Ain't nobody gettin' outta here |
(617) 234-4000  	          |   with out singin' the blues"     |
steveo at think.com                  |  - Albert "The Iceman" Collins    |

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 08:26:18 CST
From: michael at wupsych.wustl.edu (Michael Biondo)
Subject: Re. Old Carboys


 >distilled water until a ph of zero is reached.
                          ^^^^^^^^^^  Yikes! talk about your acid indigestion!!
(Um, let's see - how am I going to get out of this one?  Yeah! blame it on the
the mailer!  The mailer - yeah, that's the ticket!!)

Sorry folks what I really typed was a 'ph of seven point zero' I guess the 
                                             ^^^^^^^^^^^
mailer got hungry at that very moment and ate the 'seven point' part of my p[ 
post.  Geez, it's hard to get good help these days - oh my what's a mother to
do!  (I think from now on I'll make sure to reread my stuff before hitting the
old <Ctrl> D)

   Mike Biondo
   michael at wupsych.wustl.edu

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Date: Tue, 14 Jan 92 07:17:19 -0600
From: john at warped.phc.org (John A. Palkovic)
Subject: re: Homebrew Digest #801 (January 14, 1992)

Please remove this address (john at warped.phc.org) from the HBD mailing
list.

 -John
- ---
john at warped.phc.org || palkovic at cs.niu.edu
I joined the League for Programming Freedom -- Send mail to league at prep.ai.mit.edu.

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 08:09:36 MST
From: CITJLF at arizvm1.ccit.arizona.edu
Subject: Grain Mill Discovery!!!!!

- -------------------------- Original Message --------------------------


While registering with my bride to be at the mall this weekend
I accidentally discovered a grain mill for kitchen use that operates
using three serrated stainless steel cylinders - just like the big
guys!! This manufacturer also makes pasta makers. So forget trying
to destroy your pasta machine. The name of this product is:
The Marcato Marga Mulino Grain Crusher/Grain Mill. Of course it's
obviously made in Italy. I asked the store clerk if this was a new
product and he said that no, they've always been able to order it
along with all the other pasta equipment but just never ordered it.
He also said that they have sold several already.
Here's the info that I can remember about it. First the price is
$69.00. I haven't bought one yet, I'm waiting to see if I get it
for a wedding present. If I don't get one, I will buy one for sure!
It has three settings:
1) for crushing grain into flour
2) for crushing grain into flakes with some flour
3) for crushing grain to just expose the inside with no flour created
   It even mentioned all the different types of grains you could use
   and of course barley was mentioned.
From my memory, the unit stands about 6-7 inches high, about 5 inches
square. It was made of chromed steel and came with a low hopper of about
2 inches in height - this will require a minor modification to increase
the height. The three rollers beneath the hopper are very strong and
of course have many gripping grooves. Two rollers are on top, side by
side and the third rests beneath these two. Their distance is controlled
by an adjustable knob on the side of the unit. And lastly this device
comes with a hand crank.
I WANT ONE, I WANT ONE!!!!!
By the way, the store that I found this in is called Table Talk here in
Tucson and carries everthing you could ever think of for the kitchen.
When I finally aquire this luxery unit I'll post more info on it.

John Francisco
University of Arizona
Computer Center
Tucson, Arizona 85721
602-621-6727


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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 11:25:34 CST
From: jay marshall 283-5903 <marshall at sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Brewpub laws (changing)

andy at wups.wustl.edu (Andy Leith) says in HBD #808:

>On another Miller topic, the brewpub of which he is brewmaster has
>recently opened in St. Louis, after a considerable amount of effort
>expended by Dave on getting Missouri's laws changed. We previously
>had a three tier system here which forbade brewers from retailing their
>wares, there is now a clause exempting producers of less then 2000 bbls
>per year (I think that figure is about right).


Texas is another state which has the three-tier system :-( but the
ABC rules are up for review in '93.  I am planning on lobbying my local
representative to insert a clause such as the one that Andy mentioned.
Can you folks on the net tell me what the restrictions are in the states
that allow brewbubs.  Any other hints for people trying to take on the
big-boys who, I imagine, will be interested in keeping the status quo?

thanks,

jay
marshall at sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov

(snappy brew-related closing quip under contruction.)
~


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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 11:29:11 CST
From: jlf at poplar.cray.com (John Freeman)
Subject: Shipping beer

Well, I hate to do bring this up again, but how does one ship beer?

I just came from my unfriendly local UPS Center where I was told "We
don't ship alcohol of any kind".  The manager gave me the same story.
First, they tried to tell me it was a law.  When I pointed out that it
wasn't a law, and asked him to show me a written policy, then he said he
could refuse my package for any reason.  After more BS, he said he was
sorry he couldn't help me.  I doubt his sincerity.

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 09:57:03 EST
From: Sean J. Caron <CARONS at TBOSCH.dnet.ge.com>
Subject: zero-g fermentation



i was just wondering the same thing. also, how would you seperate the trub
from the beer after fermentation? no gravity to pull it out of suspension, 
you know. maybe a centrifuge would work? who would be interested in going
to work on a space station or a long space voyage if you couldn't
homebrew?


really! i'm serious!


                                                    sean

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 09:37:36 PST
From: css at boa.CCSF.Caltech.EDU (Chris Shenton)
Subject: Eisbock?

   Date: Wed, 22 Jan 92 21:16:47 -0700
   From: David Suda <suda at barley.Colorado.EDU>

      My brewing partner has committed us to brewing an eisbock.

How are you going to freeze it? Stuff a carboy in a freezer? or bottle
- -- sans caps? -- then freeze? If the latter, you should probably top
off each bottle since you'll lose some to the ice.

      Our current plan is to start with a dopplebock (OG ~1.080) and then put
   it through the "ice" process. Is it possible to carbonate the beer, freeze
   it, and then bottle the results with an acceptable carbonation level? 

Why carbonate first? Sure, I've had my fair share of ``ice cold beer''
which froze upon uncapping, so that will work. Seems unnecessary tho.

      If any of you have experience with or references to this process, I'd
   appreciate your help. Also, are there any commercial examples available in
   the US?

I believe EKU-28 (Germany) is an Eisbock. If I remember correctly, the
28 is the initial gravity in degrees plato. (It may be Samiclaus,
though; I don't have the book here).  Check Jackson's world guide to
beer: he talks a little about it there.

Let us know how it comes out!

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 10:12:10 CST
From: whg at tellab5.tellabs.com (Walter H. Gude)
Subject: Re:  blow-off


When I do use a blowoff method I normally put the end of my tude in just
plain old water.  Once your blowing away I don't think that there is much
threat of anything crawling back up the tube.  One thing to consider is that
if the temp of the wort in the fermenter is not completely cooled to room
temp when you put on the tude, then the cooling wort will contract and
suck water (or air if your not in water) back up the tube.  (once fermentation
starts this is not problem).  Before swithing to a 1" tube and a wort chiller,
I actually had water sucked all the way back into the fermenter.  I'd hate to
think that I might suck bleach back into there.  If your really worried about
infection try putting the hose in water with a shot of vodka.

Walter Gude


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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 9:41:01 PST
From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Cheap Soda Kegs
Full-Name: "John Cotterill"

I was looking for this information during the thread on kegging and artificial
carbonation, but could not find it.  Well last night I did.  Here is a source
of cheap used kegs.  I bought a bunch last year.  They were all in very good
shape and held pressure.  They were ball lock Spartan Cornelius type kegs.
They were $25.00 each (I don't know if that price is still current).  Hope
this helps some of you get into kegging.
                                Art's Brewing Supplies
                                640 SO. 250 West
                                Salt Lake City, Utah  84101
                                801-533-8029
John
johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 13:19:39 EST
From: gkushmer at Jade.Tufts.EDU
Subject: Re: Old Carboys 


Funny someone else should ask that question.  

A couple of months ago I too received an old carboy that had dirt in it
(but no scratches).  I first tried to use a strong ammonia and then bleach 
solution on this.  The bleach solution succeeded in getting the dirt out,
but I saw two rust stains on the bottom of the thing once the dirt was
clear.

After posting to the net, I went out to Grossman's and bought some
HCl (I can't remember the brand name of this stuff but have it at 
home if you want to know).  After a day of soaking the carboy in an
acid-water solution (not very diluted), the rust stains disappeared.

Already I have used the carboy as a secondary for some cider and everything
came out OK.  

- --gk

==============================================================================

We're not hitchiking anymore - we're riding!
			-Commander Hoeke 
- ----------------------------
gkushmer at jade.tufts.edu
- ----------------------------

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 12:07:07 CST
From: ingr!ingr!b11!mspe5!guy at uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Oak Chips in an IPA

    A quick question to anyone who has used oak chips in an IPA.  I have one in
the primary that I want to rack on Monday into a secondary containing the oak.
My question is, how do you sanitze the oak chips (or do you)?  Charlie says
something about "steaming" them.  How does one accomplish this?  Any insight
will be appreciated.

- --
Guy McConnell
"And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one for dessert"


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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 11:27:55 PST
From: Richard Childers <rchilder at us.oracle.com>
Subject: Zero-G Brewing, Root Beer ?



"From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu>
 Subject: zero-g yeastie boys

"Well, the shuttle, Discovery, lifted off this morning (Wednesday), and I
 heard on the radio that one of their main projects is to do experiments
 on plant growth and small-animal behavior.  What I want to know is this:
 If you fermented in a free-fall spherical fermenter, how would you tell
 the bottom fermenting yeast from the top fermenting yeast."

Perhaps by using a rotating still ? Or, better yet, by introducing minute
amounts of turbulence to the already complex fluid dynamics of the solution
with a magnetic stirrer, you might evenly distribute the yeast throughout
and make the gravity-derived categories obsolete and irrelevant, as they
brew things undreamed of by us earth-bound mortals ...

I can just see it ... "Atmospheric Ambrosia", 'bottled' in a bubble of soft
and non-reactive polymer, with a disposable one-way valve to squirt contents
into one's mouth ... made in huge, Sun-warmed vats in fixed orbit ...

				-=*=-

On a ( slightly ) more serious subject ... does anyone know _anything_ about
making root beer ? It takes sasparilla, that much I think I'm sure of. Does
one treat the root like one does grain ? Do conventional brewing yeasts work ?
Does anyone have any references to articles or literature ?

- -- richard

=====
- -- richard childers		rchilder at us.oracle.com		1 415 506 2411
	oracle data center  --  unix systems & network administration
"Anything is possible, if you don't care who gets the credit." -- Harry Truman

 

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 14:08 CST
From: korz at ihlpl.att.com
Subject: Re: blow-off

Alan writes:
>In my vast experience (3 batches!) I have found that not so much gack
>(or spooge-gack as we say `round here) comes out of my blow-tube to
>make the process prohibitively wastefull, so that leaves the possible
>route for infection as a possible detractor to this method.

>What if I just put the end of my blow tube in a container that has some
>bleach water or something in it, wouldnt that prohibit any nasties from
>cruising up by tube (so to speak)?.

Being one of the more vocal proponents of the blow-off method, I felt
a responsibility to respond.  I feel that the chances of nasties traveling
back up the blow-off tube are virtually nil.  I can't imagine how they
would propel themselves the three or so feet from the blow-off collection
vessel to the carboy.  I use a blow-off tube during the first week or
so, sometimes using bleach in the blow-off collection vessel and other
times not, and then switch to an airlock.  Note, that I use a 1/2" ID,
3/4" OD hose since the explosion, four years ago.  If you want to stay
completely worry-free and bleach in the collection vessel will help you
do that, then by all means use bleach.  I have yet to notice a difference.

>Also, what about the contents of the stuff being blown out? Is it truly
>that detrimental to the finished product?

My information on this from Papazian so I can't add to what you've read.
I noticed a slight improvement in flavor when I switched to blow-off (six
years ago), at which time I was specifically researching how different
ingredients and procedures affected my beer and thus made an effort to
only change one aspect of my process at a time.  It was quite a while ago
(and many, many beers ago) so I can't recall the exact flavor qualities
that were affected -- only that they were significant enough to decide to
not go back to non-blow-off again.

Al.

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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 1992 15:18:51 -0500 (EST)
From: Peter Glen Berger <pb1p+ at andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Yeast Starters / Faucet Adapters

I generally just let my starter cool slightly in the pot, pour it into
a sanitized bottle which is simultaneously being force-cooled by being
immersed in ice-water.  Even better, a snow bank.

Pitch the yeast when it's still slightly warmer than optimal
fermentation temperature to give it a jump start.

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pete Berger		       ||  ARPA:     peterb at cs.cmu.edu
Professional Student	       ||            Pete.Berger at andrew.cmu.edu
Univ. Pittsburgh School of Law ||  BITNET:   R746PB1P at CMCCVB
Attend this school, not CMU    ||  UUCP: ...!harvard!andrew.cmu.edu!pb1p
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Goldilocks is about property rights.  Little Red Riding Hood is a tale
 of seduction, rape, murder, and cannibalism."  -Bernard J. Hibbits
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------



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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 16:35:27 EST
From: key at cs.utk.edu
Subject: CO2 Volume/temp/pressure chart.

It's now available in a one-page Postscript (thanks to Perry
Donham) as well as the old text file.  Please specify which
you need in your E-mail message.  Patience is appreciated
in waiting on responses, the interest has been incredible!

Ken Key  (key at cs.utk.edu)

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Date: 23 Jan 92 17:12:00 EDT
From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil>
Subject: PUMPING BEER.

I'm doing some mental designing for a medium sized basement brewery.  I 
want to use a pu mp of some sort to move beer or wort from one vessal to 
another.  A peristoltic pump is out of the question because of cost.  I've 
been looking at the Little Giant SC serive magnitic drive pumps.  

They are not NSC or FDA or USP approved for food grade materials, but I'm 
not sure that should bother me.  The actual liquid contact time would be on 
the order of miliseconds.  The materials that the liquid would come in 
contact with are:  A polypropolyne impellar, some Aluminum impregnated 
ceramic and a couple of O rings.  I figure that, since it is rated for 
saltwater aquaria, the O rings should be pretty inert.  I'm not worried 
about the momentary contact with the polypropolyne, but I am concerned 
about the ceramic and Aluminum stuff.  Should I be concerned?  Should I be 
concerned about things I've said I wasn't?

This pump does 470 gallons per hour and costs $119 from "That Fish Place," 
so would be a pretty good deal if it's useable.

Am I nuts?  Thoughts?

Dan Graham


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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 14:57:32 -0600
From: agerhardt at ttsi.lonestar.org (Alan Gerhardt)
Subject: RIMS Part 2

As promised, here's a description of my RIMS unit. I started with the
R. Morris basic design and adapted it as needed.

I think Rodney deserves a lot of credit for coming up a practical
homebrewer's implementation of this idea. His methods sure gave me
a headstart.

I wanted the unit to be able to do at least a 10 gal batch size, which
for me usually equates to 16-20 lbs of grain, so I chose a 5KW heating
element from WW Grainger. It is a very low heat density element which
is advertised to be able to even run dry. It is a very long element,
which has in a "U" shape, and folded over to be about 19" long. It
cost about $20, but has turned out to be a very good investment, in
that I have seen no evidence of excessive heating (which would kill
the enzymes) or scorching. With this element, I get about 1.75-2
degrees/min temperature boost with 18 lbs of grain and about 7-8 gal
of water.

I used a length of 1.5" (about 21") copper pipe as an element housing,
with a cap for each end, and assorted fittings to connect things up.

   outlet-------------------------------------------------  .5" copper pipe
         -----------------------------------------------  |
                                                        | |
                 ----                                   | | ----__
                 | -------------------------------------   --- |  |-_
                 |  |==========================================|  |  |-
                 |  |==========================================|  | _|-
                 | ----  ------------------------------------- |__|- ^
                 ---- |  |                                  ---- ^   |
                      |  ---   __                                |  element
                      |   |||||__  stopper with                  |   head
                      |  ---       thermistor
                      |  |
                      |  |
                     ------                                    copper nut
                     |    |--------------
                     |    |              |
    inlet------------|    |              |
         ------------|    |  pump        |
                     |    |              |
                     |    |--------------
                     ------


The inlet and outlet pipes are .5" copper. I drilled holes in the 1.5"
tube for the inlet and outlets ( a tight fit is better ), and soldered
them in.

The trickiest part was the mounting of the heating element. Rodney used
a 1" threaded pipe to copper pipe adaptor. Since the adaptor narrows
down too much to allow the element I chose to fit through, I cut off
the threaded portion, in effect making a copper nut. I soldered the nut
outside of the cap ( with hole drilled in it ), and the element just
screws into the end of the pipe. The supplied gasket makes a water
tight seal. The element is easily removed for inspection/cleaning,
although cleaning is seldom required if a clean water rinse and
recirculation is performed after use.

I put the thermistor inside of a .125" copper tube, and sealed it in
epoxy, being careful not to short it out. The tube is inserted through
the stopper so that it sticks into the fluid flow.

The Radio Shack thermometer Rodney used is no longer available, so I
didn't put that through the stopper too. I use an external digital
thermometer instead.

I put the whole thing into a wood case, with the inlet and outlet tubes
sticking out through drilled holes. I connect to the unit using plastic
tubing and band clamps.

I built a pump speed control per Rodney's design and it works fine.

I have not been able to get his temperature controller to work yet, and
am currently using a toggle switch instead.

As he recommended, I used a GFI outlet inside my box, from which I get
all power. That is in my opinion, a very wise investment.

I set the whole system up on two Workmates, one for the RIMS unit, and
the other for the mash tun. The whole thing disassembles and stores so
I have my garage back when done.

Observations:

(1) At full flow, the outlet stream will sometimes generate a
    LOT of foam in the mash tun if not properly directed.

(2) Sparging is a snap now. I just add as much water as my mash tun
    will hold, raise to 165-170 degrees, and recirculate for about
    30 minutes.  My efficiency is typically 30-31/lb/gal, for 6 row
    malt ( Stew's Brew malt ), just short of Miller's numbers. For
    larger quantities of malt ( not as much room for more water ),
    I plan to drain/replace the sparge water as required.

(3) A proper grain grind is just as important as always.

(4) The wort runs incredibly clear by the time you are sparging, and
    no husks or other particles make it into the boiling kettle.

(5) If you are contemplating building a RIMS, don't scrimp on the
    pump or the heating element.

(6) You have to be crazy or an obsessive tinkerer to go to this
    much trouble.

I hope this helps somebody !

Cheers,
Alan


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Date: 23 Jan 92 18:14:00 EDT
From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil>
Subject: The neoprohibitionists are at it again.

I got this off the Libernet, a Libertarian mailing list.

In Spokane, Washington, a high school is going to have a breathalizer at 
their high school dance.  Any student found drunk, (by whatever standards 
they set), will be arrested.  Any student refusing to take the test will be 
sent home in the custody of his or her parents.  

I know this isn't exactly brewing related, but it scares the beejeebers out 
of me when I see people making free with our liberties like that.  I'm 
afraid we homebrewers may have to become more politically active in the 
coming years, much as I dislike that.

Dan


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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 18:23:24 CST
From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: lauter tuns

> It only took me about an hour to put a bizzilion holes in the bottom of
> one of those buckets. The problem is that you generally drill from the 
> bottom and that little plastic curley-cues are left on the other side
> which, in this case, is the inside of the bucket. The curley-cues tend to
> partly block the holes. I took a single-edged razor blade and trimmed
> them off. Melting holes (or slots) is another alternative which might
> make globs but no curley-cues. I bet it's a lot slower though since you'll
> have to heat the knife for each hole/slot. With a power drill it's just
> bzzzzzt, bzzzzt, bzzzzt, ...

I used a soldering iron for mine.  It took about 2.5 hours, and put
a melted glob instead of a burr on the other side, which could be
scraped off with some trouble, but did not block the flow.  the holes
are too big to be used without a grain bag, btw...

bb


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Date: Thu, 23 Jan 92 18:29:22 CST
From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: rye grains


> As I write this I'm roasting a pound of unmalted rye in my oven (375' F, 35
> min. so far). The idea is to make the following take off on a stout.
> 
>                 7 lb.   2 row Klages
>                 1 lb.   carastan
>                 1 lb.   roasted unmalted rye
>                 1 lb.   flaked rye

I used 3-lb malted rye in my last batch, expecting the result to
be dark because of it's dark color.  The result is the lightest
colored beer I've made yet.  Haven't tasted it yet.

What's carastan?

bb


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Date:         Thu, 23 Jan 1992 19:56 EST
From: Ken Dobson <MEDKGD%EMUVM1.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject:      Legal status of homebrewing elsewhere

In HB #808 (I think), someone said that homebrewing is illegal in Missouri.
In TCJOHB, Papazian states that homebrewing is legal everywhere but Arkansas,
Oklahoma, and Utah.  When I told him that we were fighting for legalization
still here in Georgia, he admitted that the 3 states were incorrect and that
they should have been Arkansas, Alabama, and Georgia.  Now we can read in
zymurgy that NJ just attained legalization.

***Just what is the status of legalization across the country???***

Has this question been addressed in prior issues of HBD?  We would really like
to be disseminating correct information to the Georgia Legislature when we tell
them that we are one of only 3 states firmly rooted in the '20s.

                                Ken Dobson
                                Propagandist
                                Covert Hops Society

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #809, 01/24/92