HOMEBREW Digest #826 Tue 18 February 1992

Digest #825 Digest #827

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Help no brewery (Desmond Mottram)
  krausening (Aaron Birenboim)
  Baltimore micros (radavfs)
  Brewing At Room Temperature (Jon Binkley)
  Re: Nutritional Value of Homebrew (Brian Capouch)
  natural CO2 vs forced (donald oconnor)
  WYEAST package breakage/recipes (Glenn A. Tremblay DTN 297-7168)
  Re: Help!! I'm trapped in a non-brewery!  (David Van Iderstine)
  mashing in a microwave? (Tom Haley)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #825 (February 17, 1992) (Richard Childers)
  non-brewery  (Eric Mintz)
  Re: First-Timer (korz)
  Wissenschaftliche #338 (korz)
  Wyeast Monopoly (Jay Hersh)
  Storing Yeast (Jay Hersh)
  Beer gone bad? (N E N Strangelove)
  Keg relief valve leaking (Jim Griggers)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 9:35:47 GMT From: des at pandora.swindon.ingr.com (Desmond Mottram) Subject: Re: Help no brewery Eric writes: > Subject: Help!! I'm trapped in a non-brewery! > > Dear fellow brewers, > > It's finally happened: I had to move and my new house doesn't have a > basement or any other room that is cooler than 65F. I live in Colorado > so brewing outside is out of the question (Brrr!). Should I just go for > a warmer fermentation temp or does anyone out there have a more clever > solution to my dilema? Please respond quickly -- I only have 1/2 case > of homebrew left!! The answer is simple: brew Britsh beers. 65F is just about spot on for the top fermenting yeasts used for these. I know of two books which between them contain recipies for about 200 different British beers, including medieval ales from before the days of hops. Don't regard this as a disaster: a whole new world of beer has just opened up for you! Rgds, Desmond Mottram d_mottram at swindon.ingr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 08:40:29 MST From: abirenbo at rigel.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) Subject: krausening I worry about Papazians formula for krauesening. It uses O.G., but i think that the change in S.G. would be more appropriate. Somebody once posted this formula to krausen a 5 gallon batch : change_in_SG * (quarts_of_gyle) 3.2 = ----------------------------------- 20 + quarts_of_gyle which simplifies to : 64 quarts_of_gyle = --------------------- change_in_SG - 3.2 I do not have papazians formula with me, but i do know it gave a MUCH smaller answer. BTW... i am assuming that change_in_SG is acuually change_in_SG * 1000. like for my current brew, i expect to go from 1.063 to about 1.013, hence quarts_of_gyle = 1.37 qts. i think papazians number came out to be less than 1. Does the above formula seem OK? aaron Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1992 10:12:58 EST From: radavfs at ube.ub.umd.edu Subject: Baltimore micros Hello - there are two micros in Baltimore City, both of which produce a pretty decent brew. A) Baltimore Brewing Company - just a short walk from the Inner Harbor, this joint serves it's own (Pilsner, Dark,, Amber and one monthly "specialty") along with some good, medium-priced, pub-food-'n'-burgers type fare. It's located at 104 Albemarle street, between Pratt and Lombard. B)Sisson's - the site of the local homebrew club's meetings (none of which I have attended yet). Sisson's has pretty good deals ($6.50/pitcher) and some fare similar to BBC's, but it also features a posh Cajun restaurant as an adjunct. The food is good as is the beer. One of the only micros I know that serves beers fro around the world in addition to its own! Can be very crowded. Address: 36 E Cross St, right across the street from the Cross St Market, between Light and Charles. Hope this helps! Best Volker Stewart Langsdale Libr., U. of Balto., RADAVFS at UBE.UB.UMD.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 09:45:18 -0700 From: Jon Binkley <binkley at beagle.Colorado.EDU> Subject: Brewing At Room Temperature In HBD #825, Eric Mintz <ericm at bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM> wrote: >It's finally happened: I had to move and my new house doesn't have a >basement or any other room that is cooler than 65F. I live in Colorado >so brewing outside is out of the question (Brrr!). Should I just go for >a warmer fermentation temp or does anyone out there have a more clever >solution to my dilema? Please respond quickly -- I only have 1/2 case >of homebrew left!! I brewed in my apartment in Boulder from January to May of last year, and didn't have any problems until May. During winter and early spring the temp. stayed between 60 and 70 degrees, fine for most ales. Some of the lighter ales had a mild diacetyl taste, probably due to the warmer temperatures, but I like that. When May rolled around it became impossible to keep the temp below 70 without paying exorbitant air conditioning bills. The beers began tasting a little too funky even for me, and we moved the brewery to my friend's basement in Denver, where the temp never got above 70 all summer (eat your hearts out, flat-landers!). So, my advice is to go for it, but line up a good basement or spare refrigerator for this summer. Jon Binkley binkley at boulder.colorado.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 11:10:47 -0600 (CST) From: Brian Capouch <brianc at zeta.saintjoe.EDU> Subject: Re: Nutritional Value of Homebrew Excerpts from homebrew: 17-Feb-92 Homebrew Digest #825 (Febru.. Verify a. b. sending at hpf (43221) > So, my question is: how nutritious can a homebrew be? or a good stout > for that matter? how would one go about making a "healthy" beer? I'm no nutritionist, but I've been reading Steinkraus' "Handbook of Indigenous Fermented Foods" pretty assiduously. From what I can gather, the most nutritious "beers" of the third world are those in which the *entire mash* is fermented out. The resulting product would resemble alcoholic oatmeal more than what we have come to call beer. There does, indeed, seem to be ample evidence that the nutritional quality of the grains fermented in this way does actually increase. I think it would be iffy to do barley beers this way, since the percentage of husks in the mash would be more than a bit unpalatable. Using wheat malt, or perhaps better, maize malt, would result in a gruel of greater "organoleptic" quality. I'm hoping to do some "thick" beers here in a few weeks, using techniques similar to those reported in this book. If anyone's interested, I'll be glad to keep you posted. Brian Capouch Saint Joseph's College for Children brianc at saintjoe.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 11:17:24 -0600 From: oconnor at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (donald oconnor) Subject: natural CO2 vs forced jim busch contends that the source of CO2 determines the size of the bubbles formed in the beer. i will emphasize again that the co2 molecules do not float around with little signs saying "i came from a sugar" or "i came from a 5 gallon gas tank". The head formation and retention are effected by a number of factors in beer but one of them is not the source of c02. the size of the co2 bubbles depends on a number of factors but one of them is not the source of the gas. if you would like to know more about what determines bubble size and such, i would recommend an article that appeared in Physics Today about 4-5 months ago by a Stanford chemist and one of his post-docs. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 10:18:43 PST From: Glenn A. Tremblay DTN 297-7168 <tremblay at vino.enet.dec.com> Subject: WYEAST package breakage/recipes Hi! I'm new to this this conference...so hello. I am just getting into homebrewing. I bought a pre-package ingredients kit at my local supplier. It contained a package of WYEAST Danish Lager yeast. I followed the directions, that is, broke the inner bag with the palm of my hand and place it for one day in a warm place. The inner contain broke without any trouble, I kneaded it gently and kept it at about 72 degrees F over night. The next morning (about 18 hours later) I found the package had broken at the seam and the mixture was leaking from the package. Is this the failure scenario people have been talking about? Or did I do something wrong (which there really isn't must to screw up here!). I will request a replacement, but was curious if I happen to just get an older package or if this type of thing should be expected on occaision? Thanx for any input. Also, I'd be interested in any "online" recipes that anyone would be kind enough to forward me directly...or any other useful information to assist me in the wonderful new hobby. Thanx all, /Glenn Tremblay tremblay at vino.enet.dec.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 13:19:53 EST From: orgasm!davevi at uunet.UU.NET (David Van Iderstine) Subject: Re: Help!! I'm trapped in a non-brewery! In HBD #825, Eric Mintz writes: |> It's finally happened: I had to move and my new house doesn't have a |> basement or any other room that is cooler than 65F. I live in Colorado |> so brewing outside is out of the question (Brrr!). Should I just go for |> a warmer fermentation temp or does anyone out there have a more clever |> solution to my dilema? Please respond quickly -- I only have 1/2 case |> of homebrew left!! Geez, Eric, relax (don't worry, etc.). I've been brewing at "room" temperature (69->71 deg. F) for 2 years now, and everything is fine! Granted, I'm not making lagers, strictly ales, but they taste great. I do keep the carboys covered with a T shirt or two to keep light off them, and also keep them away from the heat registers, but that's the extent of my caution. If you REALLY want the lower fermentation temp, why not buy a used refrigerator and crank it up as high as it wll go? =========================================================================== == Dave Van Iderstine Senior Software Engineer == == Xerox Imaging Systems, Inc. == == UUCP: uunet!pharlap!orgasm!davevi davevi at pharlap.com :INTERNET == ==-----------------------------------------------------------------------== == "If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the precipitate." == =========================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: 17 Feb 92 09:15:00 PST From: Tom Haley <tah at ccgate.SanDiegoCA.NCR.COM> Subject: mashing in a microwave? A question for the grain mashers. Mashing involves raising the grain and water to a certain temp. and letting it sit there for a specified lenght of time. Some technics call for this to be done in stages. ie one temp for an hour then raise it to the next temp etc. My question is can this be done in the microwave oven? My micro is programable to allow this staged approach using the built in timer and probe. Anyone have any experience with this? Comments? Post or reply and I will summarize. Thanks tom Tom.Haley at SanDiegoCA.NCR.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 11:17:51 PST From: Richard Childers <rchilder at us.oracle.com> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #825 (February 17, 1992) "Date: Fri, 14 Feb 92 12:35:59 -0800 From: ktk at nas.nasa.gov (Katy T. Kislitzin) Subject: Nutritional Value of Homebrew "I was reading a recent (jan or feb) issue of nat'l geo over the weekend. The main topic for that issue was "Alchohol -- the legal drug". It contained some speculation that beer was one of the earliest fermented beverages, and may have been the first reason people had to cultivate grain. the article went on to claim that it is likely that "primitive" beer was highly nutrious, in fact, in all likelyhood brewing barley made more of the nutrients in it available than baking bread with it. They implied this for all grains, but barley was mentioned by name. The article then says that given today's very light brews, modern beer has virtually no nutritive value. "So, my question is: how nutritious can a homebrew be? or a good stout for that matter? how would one go about making a "healthy" beer? given the emphasis that current nutritionists put on grain consumption, and given the comments of nat'l geo, it seems that one could concoct a brew that would be a very enjoyable way of "having one's daily bread" as it were ;-)" I've thought about that, also. One of my brothers has pointed out to me that the malt I put into proto-beer is identical to that added to 'malted' milks, and suggests that the complex of sugars and proteins are very good for you. Of course, the yeastie-beasties eat a lot of it up, but I'd guess that a fair amount remains. This would also explain how some of my barfly friends remain alive despite never appearing to eat much of anything ... (-: "Least my question be interpreted as anti-bread, let me state for the record that i enjoy baking and eating bread at least as much as brewing and drinking beer!" I've been experimenting with making pizza, myself ... and thanks for the beer bread recipe, Jack ... An interesting variation on a recipe has occurred to me recently. I was in Chinatown recently, contemplating ginger root and wondering what it would do to my beer ... or ginseng, for that matter. Yesterday, I was in a health food store in Santa Cruz, pondering a wide array of herbs, and wondering what orange peel might do to a brew. I tell you, the possibilities are infinite ... - -- richard ===== - -- richard childers rchilder at us.oracle.com 1 415 506 2411 oracle data center -- unix systems & network administration "Anything is possible, if you don't care who gets the credit." -- Harry Truman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 15:46 CST From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) To: ------------------------------, -0800, .........., 12:35:59, 14, 2, 263, 3911, 55009, 7th, 918, 92, >, >Least, >So, Although, Alzheimer's, Aside, BEER, BREAD, Bob, Breis, Cannon, Considering, DIRECTLY, Date:, Digest, Falls, Feb, Fm:, For, Fri, From:, Homebrew, I, If, It, Jack, Jensen, MM...., MN, Malting, Malting., Minnesota, N, Nutritional, One, RECIPE, Reinheightsgbot, Roll, Schmidling, Several, St, Subject:, The, They, This, To:, Value, a, about, about., all, aluminum, an, and, anti-bread, anyone, anything, anywhere, as, aspects, avoid, avoided, baking, bandaided, bars, be, be?, been, beer, beer!, beer?, before, boil, bread, bread at least, brewing, but, buy, by, can, chlorine, circle., companies, compleated, contact, crystal, cured, detail....., diameter, dough, drinking, eating, else, enjoy, even, except, factor., feel, few, fired, first, food, for, free, from, gets, glossed, go, good, grain, grown, has, have, healthy, homebrew, homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, homemade, hour, how, i, if, important, in, indirectly, industry, information, interested, interpreted, into, is, is:, issue, it, jury, just, kilning., kilns, ktk at nas.nasa.gov, largest, leave, left, length, let, like, made, making, malt, malt., matter?, me, mine, most, much, my, near, next, nitrosamine, nitrosamines., nothing, nutritionists., nutritious, of, on, one, only, or, organic, organically, others., otherwise, out, over, phone, plague., process., produce, produced, producers, provide, question, record, remove, seem, should, some, spent, squeeze, state, step, stick, still, stout, such, talk, that, the, them., there, thing, things, this, those, to, took, totally, unhealthy, use, use., uses, using, water, will, with, wonderful, would, you, your Subject: Nutrition, > sheets or form loaves for bread pans. LET RISE AGAIN FOR ABOUT AN HOUR IN WARM PLACE >Bake at 375 F for 25 min. js Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 15:48:49 MST From: Eric Mintz <ericm at bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM> Subject: non-brewery I received some vary good ideas in response to my recent plea for help. I had asked what to do about brewing in a house where there was no basement or other cool room. For those of you with similar problems, here are the responses: 1) Place your fermenter in a shallow pan whose diameter is greater than that of the fermenter. Fill the pan with water. Drape some cloth (e.g. a t-shirt) over and around your fermenter so that the cloth comes in contact with the water in the shallow pan. The water wicks up from the pan into the cloth. The water evaporates from the cloth and cools the fermenter. You can cool the fermenter even more by blowing air past the system with a fan. 2) Get a freezer that no longer works (to save money). Buy a Hunter airstat for about $25.00 to cool the freezer. The Hunter airstat can maintain temperatures in the required range (e.g. 60F). The moral? When it comes to brewing, you have to be cool. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 17:36 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: First-Timer John writes: > For example, is it possible to kill your wort by burning it before >it boils? Initially, my wort showed little activity, then only a >weak boil. Shortly after, I stirred it. Then all hell broke loose, >over the pot, and onto the stove. Is this bad for the wort? Only if you try to scrape the burnt wort off the stove and put it back into the kettle. > Secondly, after painstakingly following the directions for >sanitizing the utensils, fermentation chambers, etc., I'm worried that >if I muck around in it AT ALL, I'll ruin it. So is it possible to get >TOO caught up in cleanliness in the search for godliness?? I'm not clear on what you mean by "muck around in it AT ALL." Sanitation is the most important factor in making good beer. (Avoiding excessive amounts of cane or corn sugar is #2 and good yeast is #3.) You should sanitize everything that will come in contact with your wort, preferably, just before you use it, so it doesn't get contaminated by airborne bacteria or wild yeast or pick up the same by contact with unsanitized surfaces in your brewing area. Once you get a routine down, sanitation will not be such a big pain anymore -- but no less important. > Finally, just how much protection from the light do I need to >worry about? While I don't want a skunky ale, nor do I want to deprive >the yeast of any light necessary for their healthy little lives. Protect your wort/beer from all light, if you can, especially fluorescent and daylight. Yeast don't need any light at all, and you're right: light struck beer smells skunky. > Right >now I've got my primary fermenter sitting covered by a large box in the >corner of my pantry. Great. Leave it under the box. >As of this letter, I haven't see any signs of >fermentation yet, but I suspect it's still too early. Could be. Depending on the yeast, the temperature, how much you aerated your wort, if you used a starter or not, etc. etc., it can take anywhere from 4 to 48 hours to see activity. I may have recently killed a starter. My basement is about 10 degrees colder than my kitchen. I culture yeast in my kitchen. I recently made a 500ml starter from a package of Wyeast #1028 (London Ale). It was going well as I poured 100ml of that starter into another 500ml of wort the morning I was going to brew. In the evening, that starter was going well. While chilling the wort to pitching temperature, I had the starter in the basement with me. After a few minutes, I glanced over and noticed that the airlock was going in the wrong direction. The cooler temperature was contracting the starter and the air in the starter bottle! Not that it was a big deal or anything, I decided to put the starter in the warmest place in the basement -- the heater room: *on top of the heat plant* (DUH!) for 30 minutes. Well I pitched the yeast and had no activity for 36 hours. It was still too early to worry, so I leisurely poured 100ml more from the first starter into the primary. 8 hours later, fermentation was active -- after 8 more hours, blowoff had begun. There's no way of telling if the original 600ml starter took 48 hours to start or if the 100ml starter did. In any event, the moral of the story: don't let the temperature of the yeast change too dramatically or get too high and don't worry. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 18:04 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Wissenschaftliche #338 Wyeast #1338 (European Ale), aka Wissenschaftliche #338, is a German Altbier yeast. I have not tried it, but according to Miller it tends to produce a lot of 4-vinyl guaiacol which tends to taste and smell like cloves. Miller suggests using Wissenschaftliche #338 for a Muenchener Weizen. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 19:50:06 EST From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: Wyeast Monopoly Hmmm MeV going out of business leaves Wyeast as sole suppklier, but this isn't a classic monopoly, it's not like they used predatory pricing or other agressive business tactics, just good service, good quality, and a good product (though pricey). Too bad more American firms don;'t have the Wyeast ethic. On a related note a local homebrew shop owner has gotten hold of commercial yeast culturing equipment and is considering doing limited production runs I have been lucky enough to get some test batches and the quality so far has been good. Perhaps if other local industrious types take up this approach fresher, less expensive yeast can be had. This will of course cut into Wyeast business, but that's capitalism... -JaH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 20:13:26 EST From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: Storing Yeast Well here's a little sacrilege. I take slurry off the bottom of the primary, put it up in bottles that previously held alcohol and have been sterilized with vodka or ethanol. I then cover these and pop them in the fridge. When I want to brew I add 1-2 cups of the slurry to a pint or so of starter. I have kept yeast this way i a refrdigerator for over a yearand had no problems restarting them. YMMV... -JaH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 18 Feb 1992 01:21:19 GMT From: mstrange at alfred.ccs.carleton.ca (N E N Strangelove) Subject: Beer gone bad? To all on homebrew, I need your assistance. I'm a beginning brewer, with my first batch in its second stage of fermentation. Today, I noticed a thin scum on the top, it isn't covering the whole top. The beer has kept an average temperature of 78 degrees, and other than the scum seems fine. Should I worry at this point? Is my beer ruined? Can I do *anything* to salvage it? Awaiting your guidance...Thanks in advance, N. Strangelove Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 17 Feb 92 23:23:10 EST From: ncrcae!brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Jim Griggers) Subject: Keg relief valve leaking Has anyone experienced the problem of a leaking relief valve on a Firestone soda keg? If so, how did you fix it? The valve has a removable assembly, and the rubber seal has a surface that looks sort of like a raisin. I hope that the assembly can be found at some homebrew supply store. One thing I noticed is that there are many different types of relief valves. I have four Pepsi kegs, and have three different types of valves. PS. I posted an article a while back about a homemade pH meter. I got one request to post the plans. I am not very good at ascii graphics, and I don't want to take up Digest space with it. If anyone wants a schematic and circuit description, send me a Self Addressed Stamped Envelope. Jim Griggers * * * * * brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM * * 408 Timber Ridge Dr. * * West Columbia, SC * * * 29169 * * Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #826, 02/18/92