FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  August Schell Ingredients (volkerding patrick)
  Question about bottles (trwagner)
  Belgian beer tour review in Sunday's Washington Post (Dave Coombs)
  Stop Clogging Funnel Strainers ("Justin A. Aborn")
  Re: Homebrew Digest #840 (March 10, 1992) (Douglas Allen Luce)
  Homebrew Digest #846 (March 18, 1992) (Ruth Mazo Karras)
  Sparge, Rousing, BPots (Alan Mayman)
  When to dry hop? (Jim Schlemmer)
  Fred Eckhardt's beer color values (Brian Smithey)
  Re: Sparge question  (mcnally)
  RE: Mistletoe  (Carl West)
  Re:  Help a first batch? (Aereation & Straining the Wort) (Jeff Mizener)
  re Mistletoe (Chip Hitchcock)
  2 requests (Kathleen T Moore)
  Protecting carbonation with a silver spoon (S94WELKE)
  What's the status of Cat's Meow? (The Rider)
  hot sparge / stuck ferment (Brian Bliss)
  Sparge temp (korz)
  Cats Meow 2 (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu>
  Re: Mistletoe (Robert Millette)
  Re:  re Mistletoe (Robert Millette)
  Volunteers for 1st round AHA Comp. in Boston (sheri)
  Sparging, Wyeast, Malting (Jack Schmidling)


Send submissions to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues!]
Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 05:59:23 -0600
From: volkerdi at MHD1.moorhead.msus.edu (volkerding patrick)
Subject: August Schell Ingredients

Well, a number of people have asked about this, so here is the official,
vague and incomplete, August Schell beer ingredient list: (tm)

August Schell Pils: 100% Barley malt (?), Hallertau, Cascade hops. 4.2 %
   alcohol. (all alcohol given is by weight)
   "Hops are accented in flavor and aroma over a rich, malty background.
    Naturally krausened." 
   Kelly also mentioned to me that the Pils is lagered for 3 months. I'm
   not sure exactly what kind of malt goes into it though...

August Schell Weizen: 60% Wheat malt, 40% Barley malt.
   Hallertau, Cascade hops. 3.5% alcohol.
   "Top fermentation provides a refreshing citrus tang . . . naturally
    krausened."

Schell's Bock: 80% Malt, 20% Corn. Hallertau, Cluster hops. 4.5%
   alcohol.	
   "Reddish-copper color, light caramel flavor (hint, hint :^), heady.

Pete's Wicked Ale: Pale, Crystal, Chocolate malt. Cascade, Chinook hops.
   4.0% alcohol.

Pete's Gold Coast Lager: Pale malt, Cara-pils malt. Cascade hops. 3.5%
   alcohol. 
   "Pleasant balance of malt sweetness with robust hops flavor."

Pete's Pacific Dry: Pale malt, Crystal malt, Wheat malt. Hallertau hops.
   3.3% alcohol. 

I'm leaving out their lower-priced light American lager style beers
because I doubt there's much interest in those. (though they're not bad
for the style) 
Oh, Kelly also mentioned to me that they use only pellet hops at the Schell
brewery. One more hint for those of you trying to brew something
similar.

Happy brewing :^)

Patrick

P.S. Just pitched the yeast for batch #3 (all grain batch #1)  :^) :^) :^)
     Bottled batch #2 four days ago. And, I'm planning to brew another batch 
     this weekend. I figure I don't ever want the homebrew supply to run
     short ;^)  


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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1992 07:34:09 -0500
From: trwagner at unixpop.ucs.indiana.edu
Subject: Question about bottles

        I have a question that is burning....

        I have some srew on bottles.  A few are the Ballantine Pale Ale
bottles.  Can I use these to bottle when I brew my first batch?  Or is
bottling screw on bottles very iffy?  Has anyone done this successfully??

Thanks

Ted


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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 08:25:03 -0500
From: coombs at cme.nist.gov (Dave Coombs)
Subject: Belgian beer tour review in Sunday's Washington Post

There was an article on Belgian brewing in the travel section of
Sunday's Washington Post.  (Sorry this is so late, but some of you
might be able to find this in a nearby library or something.)  The
author visited a small and a larger brewery.  Details of the brewing
processes were scant, but it was a moderately amusing article.  It was
nice to see some press for good beer.

	dave

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Date:     Wed, 18 Mar 92 8:45:11 EST
From: "Justin A. Aborn" <jaborn at BBN.COM>
Subject:  Stop Clogging Funnel Strainers

I just figured out a new trick.

The funnel I use to pour wort into my carboy has an integrated
strainer that usually gets clogged with hop bits when I transfer
wort from boiler to carboy.  What a pain.

The last couple of batches I did the following.  Towards the end
of the boil I put my standard, stainless, kitchen strainer into
the boiling wort for 10 minutes to sterilize the strainer.

About one minute before I turn the flame off I start swooshing
the strainer through the wort to catch free floating hop bits,
and dump whatever I catch into the trash.  

Several cycles of this gets 90% of the funnel cloggers out of the
wort, and makes the transfer to the carboy much more relaxing.

I use leaf hops without any sort of hop bag for maximum rolling
and mixing of the hops and wort.  This procedure makes using this
hop form a breeze.

Justin
Brewer and Patriot

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1992 09:50:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Douglas Allen Luce <dl2p+ at andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #840 (March 10, 1992)

Excerpts from internet.homebrew-beer: 17-Mar-92 Re: Homebrew Digest #840
(M.. The Rider at ucsd.edu (1887)

> It's a bit
> hard to pick up miller cold, and make heads or tails of what he's saying
> w/out watching someone do it. On the other hand, don't we all learn this
from sobody else? 

nope!  i started reading hbd for several weeks before trying first go; i
ended up buying papazian before the leap, though.  it was about 9 months
before i saw anyone experienced doing it.

the hbd faq oughta include a pointer to some beginner doc at an ftp site
or listserv; something that has basic theory, a stunted style overview
and ingredient matcher, and an example first batch.

dug

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Date: 18 Mar 92 10:16:12 EST
From: Ruth Mazo Karras <RKARRAS at PENNSAS.UPENN.EDU>
Subject: Homebrew Digest #846 (March 18, 1992)

Someone suggested that "honeymoon" comes into English from Norse.
If so, the derivation probably has nothing to do with honey.  Cleasby
and Vigfusson's Old Norse dictionary suggests that "honeymoon" is
derived from Old Norse "h'y n'ott," (those are acute accents), meaning
"wedding nights," the three nights after the wedding.  "H'yn'ottar
m'anudr" (wedding-night month) could easily become "honeymoon" in
English, and the explanations of the word in terms of honey could be
back-formations.

Ruth Karras
RKARRAS at PENNSAS.UPENN.EDU

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 10:26:33 -0500
From: Alan Mayman <maymanal at scvoting.fvo.osd.mil>
Subject: Sparge, Rousing, BPots

Howdy All,

I tried out my new wort chiller recently and was slightly bummed by how thick and viscous my wort became.
How do you veterans handle sparging thick wort?  

I have heard about "rousing" the yeast as a solution to stuck fermentation, but I still don't know the 
procedure.  How does one rouse thier yeast should one really have a hankerin to.

Finally, I am ready for a big, all grain size brewpot (10 gal?).  I have heard something about brewpots
with spigots on the side.  Is there some advantage to these other than convenience that I should know
about?


 - A thousand thanks

       Alan

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 10:29:53 EST
From: jim at grunt.asrc.albany.edu (Jim Schlemmer)
Subject: When to dry hop?

Regarding dry hopping,

Jeff Frane says:

>Put them in a bag. If your homebrew supply store doesn't stock
>ready-made bags (they look like socks) you can use cheesecloth. 

This is what I did.  It was a little tight going through the neck of
the carboy with an ounce of hops though.

David Resch says:

>I just toss the loose hops into the secondary fermenter (using a large funnel)
>and then rack the beer from the primary into the secondary right onto the dry
>hops.  I usually do this after one week of fermentation.  I let the secondary
>fermentation/dry hop conditioning continue for another one to two weeks.

This sounds like a better method if, as Dave goes on to say, the hops don't
clog the siphon.  

My question, however, is not with the method of introduction but with the 
timing.  I just made a batch last night and put an ounce of cascades in a
hop bag and stuffed it into the carboy.  Now I read that Dave waits until
he racks to secondary and I remember that I've heard that before.  Can someone
tell me why?  Miller has about a paragraph on dry hopping and I don't recall
if he suggests a *time* to dry hop, but I know that he doesn't discuss the 
relative merits of secondary vs. primary hopping.  Should I expect anything 
bad to come of not waiting for initial fermentation to cease?  This 
morning the wort was rolling and tossing but the hop bag was just sort of 
floating atop the head of foam.  Should I make an effort of poking it back
down?

Thanks,

Jim

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 08:39:56 MST
From: smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM (Brian Smithey)
Subject: Fred Eckhardt's beer color values

In hbd #846, Jim Griggers <brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM> expresses
his confusion over Fred Eckhardt's 1-10 color scale and the tables
relating it to SRM.

I've noticed this too, and tend to believe that Fred assigned his
color "values" in a very isolated, subjective fashion, and tacked
on the value <--> SRM conversion tables as an afterthought.  Note
that there are very few beers in the book that have actual SRM values
listed with the color value; my feeling is that where SRM values
are published, they are from information furnished by the brewery.
I tend to give those figures much more weight than Fred's color.

On a similar subject, I'm working up a recipe for a microbrewery
style (I)PA, and compared the profiles of several beers to get an
idea of gravity, bitterness, and color.  I looked at SN Pale Ale
and Celebration Ale, Red Tail Ale, Anchor Liberty Ale, and Red
Hook Winterhook.  None of these listed SRM, but the all had color
values in the 4.5 - 6.5 range (sorry, I don't have the book handy).
Although I've never compared these beers side-by-side, I do have
quite a bit of experience with all of them :-), and feel pretty
safe in saying that the SNPA is substantially lighter in color than
all but the Red Tail.  Looking at Fred's numbers he had the SNPA
right up there with the darkest of the bunch -- I think he gave
it the same value as the Celebration Ale!

My advice is to look at several examples of a style, get a rough
idea, and if SRM is also given, give that value much more weight.
Also, as always, keep good notes -- write down your computed/expected
SRM value, and when the beer is finished, write down a description
of the color, maybe some similar commercial examples.  Your notes
will eventually become more valuable than Eckhardt's book.

Brian
- --
Brian Smithey / Sun Microsystems / Colorado Springs, CO
smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM


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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 08:33:30 -0800
From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com
Subject: Re: Sparge question 


    [ Sayeth Crawford.Wbst129 at xerox.com : ]

    I saw your posting in the HBD and I have a problem that maybe you
    can help with.  I am trying to get into all-grain brewing but each
    time I try it (about 5 times) I get a VERY harsh after taste making
    the brew un-drinkable.  
    
Hmm... That's never happened to me, but then again I've always been 
worried about it after reading Dave Miller's book.

    I'm thinking that the harshness is polyphenols coming from the husk.

I guess so, but once again I have no experimental evidence to back it up.

    1.  how much sparge water do you typically use per pound of grain?

I generally brew with about 10 lbs of grain for a nominal 5 gal batch.
I mash with about 3 gallons and sparge with at least 5 gallons.  I know
that's supposed to be a no-no, but I feel that when I carefully monitor
the runoff there should be no problem.

    2.  how do you adjust the PH of the sparge water and to what PH?  
        You already answered when to stop sparging.

Actually, the last time I brewed I didn't, just as a test.  After
reading Goerge Fix's book I decided that distilled water (which I
always brew with; San Jose water is pretty bad and I don't feel like
boiling 10 gal of water the night before I brew) should be about as
effective as acidified water in controlling tannin extraction.  I do
have a jar of USP lactic acid that I have used with success.  It's
kinda hard to find, but chemical supply shops can get it.  It doesn't
take much.

    3.  What is your sparging setup?.
    
I have a pair of 22 qt rectangular food bins I got at a restaurant
supply place.  I drilled many many holes in one with a Dremel tool.
I installed a spigot near the bottom on the other one.  When sparging,
I nest the multiply-perforated bucket in the spigotted one and wrap
the whole thing in mylar-coated plastic bubble insulation (available at
hardware stores).  I also put a block of wood under one side to tilt
the thing such that the spigot end is lower than the other.  Before
transferring the mash from the stove to the lauter tun, I bring about a
gallon of water to the boil and fill the bottom of the tun.  I then
transfewr the mash and let it sit for about five minutes.  I then
start draining off the wort, rapidly at first, into a saucepan on
a little portable electric burner (to keep the mash temperature up).
I recirculate until pretty clear.

I used to do the gradual exchange of sparge water for wort, but on my
last batch I tried the seemingly popular technique of draining all of
the initial mash liquid before adding any sparge water.  When the bucket
drained completely, I added the 170-degree sparge water and stirred up
the mash.  I let it rest a little, then repeated the initial process.

On my last mash I also tried the single-temperature "hot strike" 
technique suggested by someone; Russ Pencin?  That worked very well.
The wort came out as clear as any decoction mash I've done, and it
was MUCH less work.  The mash was mostly 2-row Klages, and I got a
perfect pH with almost no effort (a little calcium chloride inthe
distilled water is all I added).

_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-
Mike McNally                                           mcnally at wsl.dec.com
Digital Equipment Corporation
Western Software Lab

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 11:33:54 EST
From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West)
Subject: RE: Mistletoe 


Jay, are you having trouble with somebody? Mistletoe is _poisonous_.* 
Deadly even. A few berries are sufficient to off a small child. There 
is the slight chance that the process of fermentation might neutralize 
the toxin, but, well I guess I'm not that sort of gambler.
Why do you want to ferment mistletoe anyway? The `aphrodisiac' properties 
of mistletoe are not inherent in the plant, they are given to it 
by tradition and depend upon placement, not ingestion.

Scary stuff.

Carl

*I find it amusing that Christmas is celebrated by decorating with 
poisonous plants, holly, pointsettias, and mistletoe.


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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 11:20:16 EST
From: avalon!jm at siemens.siemens.com (Jeff Mizener)
Subject: Re:  Help a first batch? (Aereation & Straining the Wort)



I am fermenting a recipe that's not all that different from John's (an oatmeal porter)*
and I had a similar problem straining the wort into the fermenter.  I use a mesh boiling
bag to boil my grains. When I'm done boiling, while the wort is cooking, I clean and sanitize
the bag, then bind it across the top of my fermenting bucket.  I ladle (saucepan) the cooled
wort through two layers of mesh.  I need to scrape the hops and such off the mesh in
order to get the wort to go through.  In the process I aereate a lot.  I pitched
one package of Whitbread ale yeast directly into the fermenter and stirred.  Then I topped
off with cool filtered water to 5 gallons.  The fermentation lock started bubbling slowly
within 4 hours and was going great guns 12 hours later.

The moral to my story is that his problem probably isn't too much aereation.

The question of straining the boil into the fermenter seems to be a bit of a sticky one.
My last batch was two-stage and both in carboys.  I strained the boil through a big
funnel with a built-in strainer (very fine) into the carboy.  What a pain.  I ended
up cleaning the strainer after each small ladle full.  I lost a good bit of beer in
the process (why I didn't top-up with water is a question I can't answer...).

Any comments??

*3/4# grains, 6.6# extract, 1.5oz hops boil, 0.5oz hops finish (+ 1# oatmeal boiled 10 min)
 If it works, I'll post the recipe.

Relaxing (but not too much, I'm at work...)

========================================================
Jeff Mizener / Siemens Energy & Automation / Raleigh NC
jm at sead.siemens.com / Intelligent SwitchGear Systems
========================================================  

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 12:13:37 EST
From: cjh at diaspar.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Chip Hitchcock)
Subject: re Mistletoe

   I remember reading that mistletoe is poisonous; I'm not sure I'd
recommend brewing with it. Does anyone have a plant toxicology manual
available to settle this?

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 15:20:06 -0500
From: yoost at judy.indstate.edu

I recently made a batch of pale ale to try to simulate Anchor Steam flavor.

Recipe :

3.3 # light M&F DME
3 #   light unhopped M&F ME
1 #   Crystal Malt
2 oz  Willamette
#1007 Wyeast

1 oz Willamette at start of boil 1 oz at end boiled 1/2 hour sat 1/2 hr 
strained into primary pitched 2 cup starter 48 hrs previous at 78 deg.
in primary for 1 week secondary for 2 weeks. Used 1 cup DME boiled in 2
cups water for primer.

I use "Bottled Drinking water" (the kind out of a machine in grocery store)
 . My water has a high concentration of calcium and floating solids no clorine.

The taste is close to what I want but the beer is cloudy.

Also has a somewhat 'thin' taste.

I want more hop nose so I am going to dry hop with about an oz. of Nothern 
brewer next time and probably use a different bittering hop than willamette.

Any sugestions on the cloudy and thin problems.

I fermented at about 65 degrees.

What about using a lager yeast and fermenting at about 68 deg. ?

Thanks.

 -John Yoost
 Brewer/Programmer
 

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1992 14:53:22 -0600
From: Kathleen T Moore <ktmg8824 at uxa.cso.uiuc.edu>
Subject: 2 requests

1) Can everyone with experience in this matter send me a description of their
approach to using kegs as kettles.  I am familiar with Byron Burch's method
and the method described in Zymurgy's 1985 special all grain issue, but I
would prefer to avoid the picnic cooler / slotted copper tubing lauterand instead make a combination mash / lauter tun by insulating the mash tun and
fitting it with a false bottom.  My main interest is economy!  Also, I would
also prefer to tap into my natural gas line, but it is quite far away from
where I could set this system up.  Is this a job for a plumber, or can I do it?

2) I would like to take an informal poll on what is the best (most thorough) 
book on mashing.  Please send your opinions to me and I will post a report on
the results.  Please include three or so reasons for your choice.

thanks!



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Date:     Wed, 18 Mar 92 16:43 EST
From: <S94WELKE%USUHSB.bitnet at VTVM2.CC.VT.EDU>
Subject:  Protecting carbonation with a silver spoon

What an interesting idea, I said, when I read those posts.  So I ran downstairs
popped open three bottles of brew, and gave it a whirl.
Bottle 1 was half-drunk (slurred words, gregarious ;-), so the silver
spoon rested in the neck but wsa dry.
Bottle 2 was nearly full, so the silver spoon was wet.
Bottle 3 was open, full, and had no spoon (control beer)

I kept all three in my refrigerator for 24h.   The results: no noticeable
loss of carbonation in ANY of the three.  I'm not ready to throw out the
theory, but if you're only talking about a day, there seems to be little
efficacy.  Ideas...longer wait?  Unrefrigerated?  Have some friends over
and conduct a random test with a whole case?  I think I would run out of
spoons first.
- --Scott Welker

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 1992 14:38:41 -0800
From: mfetzer at ucsd.edu (The Rider)
Subject: What's the status of Cat's Meow?

I heard there were updates in progress to Cat's Meow? Is this work done? If
so, could someone remind me of the ftp site?

Mike

- --------------
Michael Fetzer
Internet:      mfetzer at ucsd.edu        uucp:           ...!ucsd!mfetzer
Bitnet:        FETZERM at SDSC            
HEPnet/SPAN:   SDSC::FETZERM           or  27.1::FETZERM




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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 16:50:00 CST
From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: hot sparge / stuck ferment


>Jack S. offers advice that boiling sparge water is more effective than
>the traditional 170 degree water. 

A freind and I let the sparge water get too hot (180-185F) on a recent
batch.  The sparge had clumps of protein in it, which would not filter
out over time.  The result had a somewhat sour, green, almost lambic
taste to it.  

===================

>Then I made a *terrible* choice of strainers (way to small and fine) and it
>took forever to get the wort into the primary plastic fermenter.  The wort
>also got extremely aerated at this point as it dripped into the primary
>fermenter.  Since then, I have heard straining out the hops at that point isn't
>that critical (?).

So take your fine strainer, and try to remove as much of the hops and
coagulate as possible during the waning minutes of the boil.  Then add
LEAF finishing hops (if any), cool, and strain into the carboy.  I find
that hop pellets can really clog up a strainer.

The more aeration of the COOLED wort before and just after pitching the
better - you didn't go wrong there.  The yeast needs the oxygen during
its initial aerobic stage for reproduction.  Most all the available
oxygen will be used up by the yeast, and will not contribute to
oxidation of the wort.  On the other hand, hot wort can be oxidized
instantly.

>So, I worried (don't have any homebrew yet) and sanitized a racking tube
>and gave the wort 8 or so really good stirs to get the yeast off the bottom
>and hopefully working better.  Checking it this morning (4th day) the
>stirring had no effect and everything has collected back on the bottom with
>no new signs of fermentation.

Rack it off the sediment, if you wish, and be patient.  If you decide
to add more yeast, create a very large starter, shake it often so
that the yeast has oxygen to grow, and then add it to the wort, stirring
gently.  Aereating the fermented wort at this point can cause oxidation
problems and should be avoided.

bb


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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 17:30 CST
From: korz at ihlpl.att.com
Subject: Sparge temp

Many of you will recall Jack's informative post on sparge temperature.
This issue seems to have come up again and this got me to thinking.
The details of Jack's experiment are available in the archives but
for clarity, I will summarize here.  Basically, what Jack's experimental
data shows, is that a 212F sparge water into a shallow bowl resting on
the top of the grain bed results in a significant drop in temperature
when measured in the grain bed and in the runoff.  I can't find my
copy of Jack's post, but suffice it to say that the temp in the grain
bed was about 170F and the runoff temp was somewhere around 160F.

Here's what I'm thinking:  maybe the 170F sparge water *already accounts*
for the drop in temperature.  Maybe we *don't* want 170F in the grain bed
- -- maybe we want 145F in the grain bed and 130F in the runoff (I'm making
these numbers up -- I've never measured)?

It's Mike's post that led me to wonder about what temp we *really* want
in the grain bed.  Comments?

Al.

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 14:00:53 EST
From: (Mark Stevens) <stevens at stsci.edu>
Subject: Cats Meow 2


Did you like the "Cats Meow" recipe compilation?

Well then, I've got good news for you. It's grown (and shrunk)!
Karl and I have added all the new recipes posted to this august journal
since Cat^1, plus we've added some recipes taken off rec.crafts.brewing.
Yet the new version is only about 160 pages instead of the more than
200 pages in Cat^1. Recipes are now 2 (or more) to a page and all
introductory BS, blank chapter pages, and appendixes are gone.

The updated version can be gotten off anonymous ftp to the
archives at mthvax.cs.miami.edu   in the directory homebrew/recipe-book

Some people have said they don't have access to ftp or don't have
PostScript laser printers and could we either send them disks or
a hard copy. Well, send us an e-mail message and we'll arrange
to do this (if you're willing to pay for postage, disks, copying etc.)

Many thanks to the fine folks on this digest who contributed to 
this compilation. 

Cheers!
- ---Mark Stevens (stevens at stsci.edu)
   Karl Lutzen (lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu)

BTW: I count about 270 recipes in this collection!


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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 17:01:03 PST
From: millette at ohsu.EDU (Robert Millette)
Subject: Re: Mistletoe

I know of the toxicity.  Contains lectins that precipitate blood cells, and
cause multinucleation.  In Europe, however, it has been used for 30 years 
as a chemotherapy for cancer.  Like many chemotherapies, its a race to kill tumcells before you kill the patient.  The traditional mistletoe drug is fermented
; thus my request.  I would'nt think of drinking it, nor would I advise it.
			Thanks,
			Jay Allen

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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 17:03:08 PST
From: millette at ohsu.EDU (Robert Millette)
Subject: Re:  re Mistletoe

I was looking for a medicinal preparation of mistletoe.  Traditionaly a fermented drink.  Used for over 30years as cancer therapy in Europe.
			Thanks
			Jay D. Allen

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Date: Wed Mar 18 18:38:53 1992
From: synchro!sheri at uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Volunteers for 1st round AHA Comp. in Boston

We need volunteers to unpack beer entries at Boston Beer Co,
30 Germania St., Jamaica Plain, MA on Saturdays March 21st and 28th
starting around 9am.  We will need more help on the 28th than on the
21st.  Notify Sheri Almeda at 617-225-6000 ext. 7021, or
sheri at synchro.com, if you can help either day.

Judging will be Friday, April 10th at 7pm; Saturday, April 11th at
4pm and Sunday, April 12th at 9am, also at the Boston Beer Co.  There
may also be an early! Saturday morning session.  Will keep you posted.
We have schedule judging on Saturday around brewery tours between noon
and 4pm!  Anybody who wants to judge should notify David Ruggiero, at
Barley Malt & Vine, 617-327-0089.  At least leave your name and number 
on the answering machine.  You can also contact Sheri, but Davidd is
preferable.   Thanks.

Sheri


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Date: Wed, 18 Mar 92 21:02 CST
From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: Sparging, Wyeast, Malting

 
 To: Homebrew Digest
 Fm: Jack Schmidling
 
 >From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com
 >Subject: Sparge water temperature
 
 
 >Jack S. offers advice that boiling sparge water is more effective than
 the traditional 170 degree water.  Though I haven't experimented
 personally with this, my understanding is that for decoction mash
 brewers like Jack (I think? correct me if I'm wrong)
 
 I am no longer doing decoction.
 
 >  For infusion brewers, however, it seems to me that there might be 
 increased risk of rinsing unconverted starches into the wort.
 
 My point is NOT that boiling water is the ideal sparge temp but that no 
 matter what the sparge temp is, the mash itself never sees anything close to 
 what is going in.
 
 Next time you do a sparge, run a thermomenter up and down the lauter tun to 
 determine the actual temp profile.  With boiling water going in, I get a 
 range of 135F coming out to 155F near the top.  Matters can only get worse 
 using water at the "correct" temp.
 
 Bear in mind that I am not dumping in a large volume of boiling sparge water. 
 I am only running it in at the rate the sweet wort is running out.  I 
 maintain about an inch over the grain and the heat loss is what is at issue 
 here, not brewing theory.
 
 >Another issue is the effect on polyphenol extraction.  Jack: Do you
 test the pH of the last runnings out of your lauter tun?
 
 No.
 
 >Do you taste it? 
 
 Of course.
 
 >My general rule is that I quit sparging when the runoff starts
 tasting like tea.
 
 That is a bit subjective.
 
 >That seems to be about the time the pH goes above
 about 5.6.
 
 According to Noonan, the the issue is change in pH, not the absolute value.  
 He also contends the SG is a good indication of when to quit and suggests 
 that 1.008 should be the limit.  I stop at 1.010 to allow a margin for error.
 
 >From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
 
 >Yo. The answer is yes. And why not, indeed?
 
 Yes, what and why not what?
 
 Just for the record, the question is: Where is the yeast?  In the inner or 
 outer container?
 
 Yes is not very satisfying.
 
 >From: mfetzer at ucsd.edu (The Rider)
 
 >Jack Writes:
 >> It's great fun, very rewarding and easy to do in small quantities.  I
 > demonstrate the process and how to make the necessary equipment in my video.
 > Perhaps one of the "reviewers" out there, who received a free copy would be
 > kind enough to send it on to you.
 
 >Jeez Jack, I don't suppose you're talking about *me* are you? I did review
 the bloody thing,......
 
 Thank you but you seem to have missed the point.  If you are through with it 
 and it is sitting around collecting dust, why not send it on to someone else 
 who could use it?
 
 >The section on malting was not necessary.....
 
 That is a strange comment, considering that the poster was looking for 
 information on doing his own malting.
 
 > and that guy at Baderbraeu (who can't pronounce the name
 of his own brewery) had better be paying you big bucks for the
 advertisement. *grin*
 
 I had to settle for a case of beer.
 
 BTW, I am not sure what he is mis-pronouncing but it is named after his sugar 
 daddy, a Mr Bader.
 
 
 js
 

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #847, 03/19/92