HOMEBREW Digest #856 Fri 03 April 1992

Digest #855 Digest #857


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  steam beer help (Bryan Gros)
  raspberry ale (Anthony Rossini)
  14th Annual Homebrewing Competition (Tom Kaltenbach)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #855 (April 02, 1992) (tom mueller)
  chiller (Russ Gelinas)
  mead honey recommendations? (Brian Smithey)
  Leinenkugel Tours ("Roger Deschner  ")
  Re: Can Liquid Yeast Pkgs Explode? YES!!! ("Roger Deschner  ")
  Leftover Grain from Hell? (brians)
  Negative Pressurein the Blow Off (ZLPAJGN)
  Jack (Ken Johnson)
  brown sugar & molasses (Brian Bliss)
  Brewpubs in the Albuquerque Area (James S Durham)
  Homemade Seltzer (GEOFF REEVES)
  Re: thermometers/hydrometers ("Emily Breed")
  Ales and Lagers (GEOFF REEVES)
  Y'all come from Micah Millspaw (Bob Jones)
  Only nose knows (Bob Jones)
  list (SOCHA THOMAS M)
  forced carbonation (Michael Biondo)
  Stinks & a question (Jacob Galley)
  Beer Expo in D.C. (Mark Stevens)
  san fran (marc julian)
  Using Pale Extracts in Stouts (C.R. Saikley)
  AHA Conference Milwaukee (homer)
  Thermo/Hydro/Micro (Kathleen T Moore)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Apr 92 23:36:33 PST From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros) Subject: steam beer help I want to make a reasonable approximation to Anchor Steam. I have the new cat's meow (which has few steam beer recipes), but I'd like any hints anyone can offer on making the brew. Any specific tips on the mash? I've heard N. Brewer hops is the thing, but any special hopping rates? HBUs? I'll be trying the Wyeast California Lager. What about adjuncts? Fermentation time and temps? thanks. - Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 07:42:47 EST From: rossini%biosun2 at harvard.harvard.edu (Anthony Rossini) Subject: raspberry ale Does anyone have suggestions for an extract-based raspberry ale (amounts of raspberries, hops, adjunct grains, even a recipe?)? I'm thinking about something like: 5 lbs amber malt syrup 1-2 pkgs frozen raspberries 2 oz Cascade hops (boiling) 1 oz ?? (finishing) 1/2 lb crystal malt... for a 5 gallon batch. The primary goal is something like a bitter with raspberry flavor, and maybe even a red-ish tinge. If I don't care about clearing (the taste is the main important point with me) , is there any problems with pectin in the beer (or should I not add the crushed berries until the wort starts to cool on general principle?) Advice, ideas welcome, flames (seems like there is still too much intolerance on here -- USE PERSONAL EMAIL, FOLKS! I read the same stuff as the rest of you HBD'ers, and if you are hot under the collar because someone sounds arrogant or annoying, don't tell me, since I don't care) send 'em to /dev/null... And keep them there. But about those raspberries... No stout recipes, please. As much as I'm interested in trying CP's Cherries in the Snow or his Rasp Stout, I've got anxious roommates to please (taste-bud and time-wise)... thanks, -tony - -- Anthony Rossini - rossini at biostat.harvard.edu Department of Biostatistics, Harvard School of Public Health 677 Huntington Ave, Boston MA 02115 617-432-1056 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 7:01 EST From: tom at kalten.bach1.sai.com (Tom Kaltenbach) Subject: 14th Annual Homebrewing Competition UPSTATE NEW YORK HOMEBREWERS ASSOCIATION 14th Annual Contest & 3rd Empire State Open Saturday, April 25, 1992 at Clancy's Pub -- 534 West Ridge Road, Rochester, New York ADMISSION $5 Doors open at 6:00 p.m. Public judging starts at 7:00 p.m. COME AND JOIN THE FUN AT NEW YORK STATE'S OLDEST HOMEBREW CONTEST! *** FREE SAMPLES OF HOMEBREW *** Contest sanctioned by the American Homebrewers Association. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - THERE WILL BE 10 CATEGORIES: 1) British Ale 4) Light Lager 7) Porter 2) North American Ale 5) Amber Lager 8) Stout 3) Brown Ale 6) Dark Lager 9) Specialty 10) Looks Like SARANAC No entries will be accepted after April 11. Beers can be entered at shops in: Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Ithaca, Albany, Binghamton, and the Hudson Valley, or they can be shipped. For further information about prizes, entering the contest, etc., send an email request to "tom at kalten.bach1.sai.com". Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 92 09:02:29 EST From: tom mueller <MUELLER at VM.CC.PURDUE.EDU> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #855 (April 02, 1992) Please end my subscription to homebrew. mueller at vm.cc.purdue.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1992 9:47:15 -0500 (EST) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: chiller Something I'd like to add about using an immersion wort chiller: the water that exits the chiller is *extremely* hot. I use it rinse off my already sanitized stainless spoon, which I then use to gently stir the cooling wort into a vortex. Someone was confused about the order of chilling/pitching steps. Here's what I do. (1) Chill (and stir, as above) (2) Remove chiller when wort is cooled (3) Pitch yeast (4) Stir into vortex again (make sure the spoon (and your arm) is sanitized! This is the step most likely to introduce bacteria/mold/etc.) (5) Let sit for 1-2 hours (6) Transfer to carboy Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 08:12:02 MST From: smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM (Brian Smithey) Subject: mead honey recommendations? Mead makers, I'm getting ready to brew a mead, and was hoping that the experienced mead-makers out there could post a summary of the flavor characteristics of some of the different honeys available. Just looking at the shelf in the grocery store last evening I saw alfalfa, clover, wildflower, and a couple of others. Also, anybody in the area (Denver/Boulder/CoSprings) feel free to recommend a supplier, I'm sure that Safeway isn't the cheapest place to buy large volumes of honey. Thanks, Brian - -- Brian Smithey / Sun Microsystems / Colorado Springs, CO smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM Return to table of contents
Date: 2 April 1992 09:20:55 CST From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Leinenkugel Tours I have been on the tour, and the brewery is truly a museum piece - with twisty passages, the aforementioned steep stairways, climbing over pipes and hoses, and wonderful classic huge mysterious pieces of America's Industrial Past going "hiss hiss hiss" as levers move up and down and whirlygigs whirl. Bring your camera, especially if you're into industrial history. However, the best part of Chippewa Falls must be its bars. All small, friendly, places that treat tourists same as locals, and proudly sell a 10 oz glass of the local product for $.25. At happy hour it's $.20! And it is, of course, VERY fresh, so while Leinenkugel's is not exactly a four-star beer, it is one of the better representatives of the American Pale Pilsner Style, so despite my beer-geekdom, I found fresh Leinenkugel's very enjoyable on a hot July afternoon after all those stairs on the brewery tour. Whoda' thought such an environment would give birth to the world's fastest computers. Return to table of contents
Date: 2 April 1992 09:43:27 CST From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Re: Can Liquid Yeast Pkgs Explode? YES!!! After several years of reliable performance from Wyeast's packaging, they changed something early in 1992, and a number of people have reported bursting packages. Not only is this a waste of very good yeast, it is a mess. Wyeast's quality control people are said to be VERY concerned, and we all hope they fix this problem soon. What to do since you can't brew right away: Make a starter, as per the instructions on the Wyeast package or in many books. The Wyeast package is itself a starter, and so you're simply enlarging the starter. This is a good idea even without the fear of bursting, since the quantity of wort in the package gives just barely a high enough pitching rate to insure rapid commencement of fermentation and the protection from infection and worry which that will give you. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 15:30 GMT From: brians <brians_+a_neripo_+lbrians+r%NERI at mcimail.com> Subject: Leftover Grain from Hell? MHS: Source date is: 2-Apr-92 10:07 EDT To Mike Sharp, re the Mash Tun From H*ll: >Yesterday's alpha test recipe was fairly generic (a shock to many who >know me!): > 30lb 6-row pale > 5lb 40L crystal Just curious--what do you do with 35lb of waterlogged grain after the mash? Brian Schuth Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 92 11:52 CST From: ZLPAJGN%LUCCPUA.bitnet at UICVM.UIC.EDU Subject: Negative Pressurein the Blow Off Dear Brewers First, I want to thank all who responded to my post re: "milky-caramel" appearance to my wort. I'd like to thank in particular Steve Hamburg and Mark Easter for their insights and experience. Thanks all... I'm not worrying... At least I wasn't until this morning... When I got up this morning to check on how well my wort was clearing - it had progressed to about half way into the wort - I noticed that the blowoff tube had filled with clear water, obviously sucked in from the catch recepticle! (Maybe *that's* why Pap. suggests replacing the blow off tube with a fermentation lock!!) I suspect that, because of the temperature drop last night - I've got the carboy out on the back porch - the wort condensed a bit and the negative pressure sucked up the chloronated water in the recepticle. Now, the tube is quite long (about 6' or so), so I suspect that if any of the water did get into the wort, it was minimal. Still, I replaced the tube with a lock, but now I've got yet another set of questions for the Illuminati: 1) Will the small amount of HCl-ated water that was sucked into the wort do any damage? 2) Will the exposure to the air (when I switched from the blowoff tube to the lock) effect the wort? 3) Is there now a possibility that, having replaced the blowoff with a lock, any further fluxuation in temperature/pressure will suck in (contaminating) air through the lock? Thanks for the responses John Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 09:55:33 PST From: kjohnson at argon.berkeley.edu (Ken Johnson) Subject: Jack Hey Jack, my mail server doesn't recognize you host machine. So how am I supposed to get in touch with you to ask you about your mill? kj Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 12:41:06 CST From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: brown sugar & molasses > ... brown sugar == molasses & cane sugar well, I for one can taste the difference between beers made with brown sugar and those made with molasses, and beleive me, brown sugar is prefereable, being quite appropriate in an english ale. molasses leaves a much more distinctive taste, very sweet, and objectionable in excess. I've used 2 lbs of brown sugar in a 1.075 OG, 1.020 FG ale before and it was yummy. My brewing partner used 1/4 cup molasses in 4 separate batches - It was quite at home in the english ales, budefinitely a different flavor from brown sugar. It was not at home in a lager. After the 4th batch, we're both sick of molasses. I've also used an entire 16 oz. bottle of molasses before in a 1.088 OG 1.033 FG dark cherry ale, and it worked wonderfully - the residual sweetness balanced the acidic cherries nicely. I was thinking about adding some molasses to make a sweet cherry mead, but I'll stick with brown sugar for the most part, from now on. bb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 09:03 PST From: James S Durham <js_durham at pnlg.pnl.gov> Subject: Brewpubs in the Albuquerque Area Can anyone give me information on the existance of any brewpubs (or pubs with microbrewed beer on tap) in the Los Alamos / Sante Fe / Albuquerque area? I plan on making a short visit to that area April 11 - 13. I would also be interested in speaking to someone from the Los Alamos area brew club. Replies can be sent to JS_Durham at PNL.GOV. Thanks in advance! Jim Durham Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 11:53:19 -0700 From: 105277 at essdp2.lanl.gov (GEOFF REEVES) Subject: Homemade Seltzer My recipe is water + carbon dioxide. Seriously. I tried carbonating water by fermenting a little sugar and never had any luck. It carbonated but tasted terrible. Since getting a CO_2 canister I just pressurize a keg of water to about 25psi and serve. Of course, an alternative is to buy a seltzer bottle and some of those CO_2 cartridges. It's a little more expensive but not much. Besides, you can also buy NO_2 cartridges and make whip cream (or something ;-) Geoff Atomic City Ales Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 11:23:18 PST From: "Emily Breed" <embreed at vnet.ibm.com> Subject: Re: thermometers/hydrometers The catalog I got yesterday from Williams' Brewing Company included a combinatio thermometer/hydrometer. (Standard disclaimer inserted here....) - -- Emily Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 13:21:20 -0700 From: 105277 at essdp1.lanl.gov (GEOFF REEVES) Subject: Ales and Lagers Concerning the difference between using Ale and Lager yeast: > The bottom line is that all beers have some esters... Let's not forget that Jack S. makes non-alcoholic beers. Therefore I would expect that NONE of his beers would have any esters in them. Geoff Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1992 12:43 PDT From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov> Subject: Y'all come from Micah Millspaw With the AHA conference coming up in June, I have a suggestion. I know that many of the contributors to the digest will be attending and it might be nice all get together at some arranged time and place. Sort of a put faces with names thing. Of course homebrews would be sampled. Anyone else interested? Micah Millspaw 3/1/92 ps. Since Jack Schmidling lives in the area of the conference I hope he can attend I would like to meet him. I am certain that interesting conversation would insue. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1992 12:55 PDT From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov> Subject: Only nose knows I read the ongoing thread about ales vs lagers and can't help but wonder how many brewers that have difficulty differentiating subtle aromatic and taste differences in beers are smokers? Most smokers would be hard pressed to identify gross differences in smells between ANY two items (I'm really trying to be nice and general here) much less the subtle differences in beer aromas. I remember the Mr. Wizard test where he closes a kids eyes and holds thier nose and ask them what they are biting into. When they bite into an onion they think they are biting into an apple. Once he lets the kid smell, the kid immediately knows its an onion. I would suggest a smoker has a partial nose clip on at all times :-). Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 16:19:40 -0500 From: tmsocha at vela.acs.oakland.edu (SOCHA THOMAS M) Subject: list does anyone have a list of AHA or other competitions? Tom Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 15:49:14 CST From: michael at wupsych.wustl.edu (Michael Biondo) Subject: forced carbonation Hello All... I have a few questions regarding Forced Carbonation. I have gone through past HBD and have downloaded the CO2 chart from the archives so I think I've got somewhat of an idea of the general process. But, there are still a few grey areas... What I've got so far is this: Rack to the keg; pressurize to about 30psi and shake real well; lower pressure to that specified on the CO2 chart based on temperature and desired carbonation level. Now for the questions: First of all, does the above pretty well describe the process or am I all wet from the get-go? Is it necessary to chill the beer down as much as possible to aid the CO2 going into solution? If yes, what are the effects when the beer is warmed back up to serving temperature? After initial pressurization to 30psi, how long is it recommended to keep the beer at that pressure before lowering it to the chart pressure? Is it sufficient to pressurize the keg and then remove the gas, or should the gas be left on for the entire rest. After the 30psi pressurization I assume the keg must be vented and then re-pressurized to the chart pressure. After which, how long is the recommended chart pressure rest? Should the chart pressure rest be done at serving temperature or as cold as possible? Lastly, (whew!) do you all think that there would be any benefit in connecting the gas line to the *output* of the keg so that the gas would have to actually bubble through the beer while pressurizing? Thanks in advance for any light you all may be able shed on the above... Mike Biondo michael at wupsych.wustl.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 19:21:15 CST From: Jacob Galley <gal2 at midway.uchicago.edu> Subject: Stinks & a question Walter Gude adds: >The only times I've ever gotten a rotten egg smell is when I've fermented with >more than 75% wheat malt. [ . . . ] The German Ale >yeast had the sulfur smell for about a day and then its gone. Two weeks in the >bottle and this beer is smooth clean and wonderful, better than the RS batch. I currently have a Koelsch-esque brew fermenting with a rather stinky air about it. That's roughly 15% wheat and German Ale Wyeast. I mustered up the courage to taste it, nose held, and it's seems fine. I'm not worried. I also used the slurry from the Koelsch for my Fine Line Barleywine (aka Sleepout Imperative Stout), and this brew smells fine -- good, even. That reminds me . . . Said barleywine is based on the Empirical Stout recipe in Meow I (sorry, but I don't remember the creator off-hand). This recipe calls for a primary ferment using some Ale Wyeast or other, and then, when this yeast has passed on (so to speak), a secondary ferment using champagne yeast. Does anyone have any comments on this technique? How would it work on a mead? Cheers, Jake. Reinheitsgebot <-- "Keep your laws off my beer!" <-- gal2 at midway.uchicago.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 20:58:27 EST From: Mark Stevens <stevens at stsci.edu> Subject: Beer Expo in D.C. Hi folks...this was sent to me via e-mail but I think it would interest others in this forum. Usual disclaimer applies....I have nothing to do with the people running this expo and in no way profit from telling people about it... :-) - ---Mark THE 1992 EAST COAST BEER AND AND WINE EXPO ! ( from DNA Productions, Inc. ) Date: May 31, 1992 -------->>> at the Washington Plaza Hotel <<<------------- on Thomas Circle in Washington D.C. Microbreweries, Beer, Brew Supplies, Food, Crafts, and more... ** Get your tickets early to be sure you don't miss this big event!! ** If you have an idea for a seminar, or panel discussion, call now! Check out the exhibits from Brew Clubs, Breweries, and Vendors! Tickets: $8.50 in advance $10.00 at the door Tickets available at Brew Masters in Rockville, MD (301) 984-9557 and directly from DNA Productions - call or write for details. Send Check or Money Order to: DNA Productions, Inc. 12537 N. Lake Court Fairfax, Virginia 22033 ==> 24 hour DNA Hotline - (703) 222-8486 <== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 92 22:21:28 EST From: marc julian <CMSMARC at uga.cc.uga.edu> Subject: san fran help !!! I will be in San Francisco for a conference from 4/18 to 4/25. What brewing establishments are located in San Fran ?? Any information would be greatly appreciated.. thanks - cmsmarc at uga Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 14:20:35 PST From: grumpy!cr at uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley) Subject: Using Pale Extracts in Stouts From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu> >Since I am currently an >extract brewer, I understand that I am somewhat at the mercy of the companies >that manufacture my malt extract. Nonetheless, I would like to know what >determines the color of my beer's head in stouts and porters, and what I can >do to influence that color. Before I made the move to all grain, I too wanted to have more influence over my beers. Not just head color, but in every respect possible. Short going all grain, there are things one can do. Try using the palest extract available, regardless of whether you're making a light lager or a stout. Starting from this point, you can then adjust the color and malt character by adding specialty malts (crystal, chocolate, etc.) as desired. Especially in darker brews, the color and flavor contributions of the extract become less significant, giving the extract brewer greater control over the outcome. CR Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 20:48 MST From: homer at drutx.att.com Subject: AHA Conference Milwaukee The AHA conference will be June 9 to 13 at the Marc Plaza Hotel Milwaukee. For full details contact: AHA Conference PO Box 1679 Boulder CO 80306 (303) 447-0816 (303) 447-2825 fax Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1992 00:00:57 -0600 From: Kathleen T Moore <ktmg8824 at uxa.cso.uiuc.edu> Subject: Thermo/Hydro/Micro Someone wanted to know about a combination thermometer-hydrometer. Well, I use one sold by Crosby & Baker, catalog # 3103. It has a thermometer range of approx. 0-215F and a standard 3-scale hydrometer. I don't know if C & B sells retail. (I buy the hydrometers for my brewery!) The price in their wholesale catalog is $8.10, so you might expect to pay $15.00 for it at a homebrew shop. Their address is: Crosby & Baker 999 Main Road P.O. Box 3409 Westport, Massachusetts 02790 (800) 992-0141 (508) 636-5154 (Insert standard disclaimer here.) Since I recieved only one or two responses to my question about brewing microbiology, I will restate it more specifically: Where can I find, or who can provide me with specific info on detection and identification of beer spoiling organisms? Specifically, I'm interested in preparing selective and differential media for the culture of : 1. Obesumbacterium proteus 2. Escherichia spp. 3. Lactobacillus spp. 4. Pediococcus spp. 5. Acetobacter spp. 6. Acetomonas spp. 7. Zymomonas spp. 8. Aerobacter spp. Of course, I am particularly interested with techniques commonly employed by breweries. I have access to incubators and autoclaves, and I also have basic streaking-plating-culturing experience. Perhaps someone who has attended the Siebel Institute's Course on Microbiology could point me in the right direction or even sell me a copy of their notebooks. Also, related yeast handling techniques would be appreciated. Does anyone know the cost of a Difco Manual? Finally, what exactly is the difference between Hallertau mittelfreuh and Hallertau hersbrucker? I know the mittelfreuh is regarded as the nobler of the two, but what else? Are mittelfreuhs available to homebrewers in the U.S.? Can we get mittelfreuh rhizomes? Do the suppliers know the difference? Etc. Perhaps Dr. Farnsworth could help me with my microbio question as I know that he at one time sold culturing equipment to homebrewers. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #856, 04/03/92