HOMEBREW Digest #857 Mon 06 April 1992

Digest #856 Digest #858


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Re: Grain from hell, Yeast/Bacteria ID (Mike Sharp)
  Fix's Review of Jack's Mill (Jack Schmidling)
  RE: Homebrew Digest #856 (April 03, 1992) (SANITY BY WHOSE STANDARDS???)
  Strike two (Bob Hettmansperger)
  Re: Raspberry Ale (Eric Pepke)
  re:raspberry ale (Micheal Yandrasits)
  mead honey recommendation  (Carl West)
  Raspberry Ale (bryan)
  AHA Conference Get-together, thermo/hydrometers (Sterling Udell)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #856 (April 03, 1992) (Roger Korn)
  Forced carbonation and Mathematica (John Post)
  Duvel recipe (Ralph Kutzner)
  Mead advice (sought) (adiron!scott at uunet.uu.net)
  big chillers, line constrictions (NCDSTEST)
  More on ales vs lagers (Conn Copas)
  spent grain disposal  (Eric Mintz)
  Re: EASYMASH  (Eric Mintz)
  homebrew newsletters (K. Haycook)
  Liquid Yeast Question  (Eric Mintz)
  Head color in stouts and porters  (Eric Mintz)
  Brewpubs in Dallas?  (Eric Mintz)
  Re: Y'all come from Micah Millspaw (Tom Quinn 5-4291)
  Brown sugar vs molasses (Conn Copas)
  Why Lager? (John DeCarlo)
  Priming with Molasses ("ACAD3A::FTHAT" )
  CAKE MIXES (Jack Schmidling)
  soda kegs? (Nick Zentena)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 6:28:32 EST From: Mike Sharp <msharp at cs.ulowell.edu> Subject: Re: Grain from hell, Yeast/Bacteria ID > From: brians <brians_+a_neripo_+lbrians+r%NERI at mcimail.com> > To Mike Sharp, re the Mash Tun From H*ll: > >Yesterday's alpha test recipe was fairly generic (a shock to many who > >know me!): > > 30lb 6-row pale > > 5lb 40L crystal > > Just curious--what do you do with 35lb of waterlogged grain after the > mash? I'm open to suggestions. I live in a city appartment so I don't need compost & I don't own any animals that would normally eat the spent grain. (at least my cat didn't seem interested at the time) > From: Kathleen T Moore <ktmg8824 at uxa.cso.uiuc.edu> > Where can I find, or who can provide me with specific info > on detection and identification of beer spoiling organisms? > Specifically, I'm interested in preparing selective and > differential media for the culture of : ......... two sources come to mind. Bergie's (sp?) Bacteriology and _The_Yeasts_ by Lodder & Van Rij, or a trained microbiologist. I'd suggest the later route if you don't have any training. These texts are not easy bed-time reading and are far from a how-to. (as far as I can tell an easy how-to doesn't exist) There are also a number of different kinds of identification kits that one can get from places like Roche (sorry, no adress). They are essentially tubes of many different media. You take a sample and streak it across all of the different media & then observe growth/no growth. You then compare the results to a big chart & hopefully find out what you've got. (of course if what your testing is a mixed cultured of stuff then you'll probably go crazy trying to match the result up. > Does anyone know the cost of a Difco Manual? Its $25 from Fischer Scientific. I don't know if the price is better (or even if it is available) directly from Difco. I assume it must at least be available from Difco. Don't expect this to be a how-to of identification. (or even a pointer to a how-to) --Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 92 21:11 CST From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Fix's Review of Jack's Mill To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) >It seems that every time I would start the review, Jack would send a post to HBD insulting someone I liked and respected. What goes around, comes around. I appreciate your tolerance. >Jack has gone overboard with respect to safety.... >Also by by stepping up to 1/2 hp, one could start the mill with grains in the hopper. I have been told that as little as 1/6 hp will do the trick. I put the 1/2 hp motor from my belt sander on one and it scared the hell out of me. >Second, the pulley driving the rollers is not rigidly attached to the rollers, but rather to a slip disc on the roller shaft. Jack did this obiously with safety in mind. Actually, I did it because I am unable to get the pulley with a 3/8" bore and use a 1/2 to 3/8 bushing. I should have drilled it out but it did not slip when I checked it out. I will in the future drill it out so the set screw seats on the flat ground on the end of the shaft. >Congratulations Jack. You have every right to be proud of your mill. I am even more proud when the kudos come from someone as highly esteemed as you. For the record, I am just about out of the surplus rollers that started this whole business. I have found a vendor willing to make a look alike for a reasonable price. The good news is the MALTMILL is here to stay, the bad news is the price will go up. Not quite sure how much but I will hold the price till May. js Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 06:43:29 PST From: SANITY BY WHOSE STANDARDS??? <colkitt at wldwst.ENET.dec.com> Subject: RE: Homebrew Digest #856 (April 03, 1992) PLEASE REMOVE MY NAME FROM THE DISTRIBUTION LIST. THANKS...KEITH Return to table of contents
Date: 3 Apr 92 10:00:57 From: Bob Hettmansperger <Bob_Hettmansperger at klondike.bellcore.com> Subject: Strike two Strike two Alas, I have not had much luck with my last two batches (both Pale Ales). At the most recent homebrewing club tasting, it was suggested to me that my problems might be due to DMS and/or/from(?) high fermentation temperature. According to Miller, high fermentation temps (and excess trub) can lead to fusals, and DMS can be caused by infection. The infection part, I can address by being more anal - looks like it might be back to the bottle scrubber instead of the dishwasher next time. The temperature part is tougher. Even though I think my apartment stays about 68 degrees, I live above a pizza shop, and when they fire up the ovens during the day, the temperature in my apartment probably rises (free heat, but at what price...). So, until I begin my search for a new place to live that has a nice, cool basement, does anyone have any suggestions about what I might be able to do? Does anyone have experience with yeasts that work well at higher temperatures? Also, does anyone have any good descriptions for what fusals and DMS taste like? Thanks, -Bob Hettmansperger Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1992 10:12:52 -0500 (EST) From: PEPKE at SCRI1.SCRI.FSU.EDU (Eric Pepke) Subject: Re: Raspberry Ale Anthony Rossini asks about raspberry ale and proposes this recipe: 5 lbs amber malt syrup 1-2 pkgs frozen raspberries 2 oz Cascade hops (boiling) 1 oz ?? (finishing) 1/2 lb crystal malt... It seems to me that the amount of raspberries is much too small. I find that, when making raspberry wheat beers, you need to add at least the equivalent of four pounds of fresh raspberries to get a slight raspberry aroma and need to add something like six to eight pounds to get any real raspberry flavor. That's without much hops to compete with. In re. pectin, a more important reason not to add the raspberries to the hot wort is that the heat tends to extract bitterness from the seeds. I always put the raspberry pulp in at the secondary fermentation. Even then you do get some bitterness from the seeds. The other thing is that my raspberry beers have all REALLY REALLY benefited from cold conditioning for a period of time. Some bottles I even stuck in the freezer and let become slushy! Eric Pepke INTERNET: pepke at gw.scri.fsu.edu Supercomputer Computations Research Institute MFENET: pepke at fsu Florida State University SPAN: scri::pepke Tallahassee, FL 32306-4052 BITNET: pepke at fsu Disclaimer: My employers seldom even LISTEN to my opinions. Meta-disclaimer: Any society that needs disclaimers has too many lawyers. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 11:06:19 est From: michael at frank.polymer.uakron.edu (Micheal Yandrasits) Subject: re:raspberry ale Here's my 2 cents on Tony Rossini's query about rasberry ale. I just recently made such a beer. First, 1-2 pkgs of frozen raspberries will not be enough. I used about 8 lbs (11 12oz pkgs) and it turned out wonderfully, not at all overly raspberry-like. I blended them with just enough water to make a slurry and added it to the cooled wort (seeds, skins and all). I also added 2 camden tablets to ward off infection. It seems to have worked. No pectin haze at all. I racked into a secondary and left most of the raspberry sludge behind. Here's the rest of the recipie: 2 Cans Alexanders pale malt extract 2lbs rice syrup extract 1 oz Cascades 8 lbs Frozen Raspberries Edme ale yeast This beer has a very nice mild raspberry flavor, aroma, and color but the beer character is not lost either. Sounds like what your looking for. -Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 10:48:23 EST From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West) Subject: mead honey recommendation I don't know about specific honeys but as a general rule: You should use honey that you want your mead to taste like. If you like the taste of orange blossom honey, you'll probably like the taste of mead made from it. (helpful huh?) Another general rule: The darker the honey, the longer it will take an aged mead to mature. (short meads are a whole n'other animal) Carl WISL,BM. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 03 Apr 92 10:09:50 PST From: bryan at tekgen.bv.tek.com Subject: Raspberry Ale >>Does anyone have suggestions for an extract-based raspberry ale (amounts of >>raspberries, hops, adjunct grains, even a recipe?)? I'm thinking about >>something like: >> 5 lbs amber malt syrup >> 1-2 pkgs frozen raspberries I use a minimum of 2# of raspberries. To maximize the raspberry taste I do not put them in the boil. Leave 1/2 gallon or so of space in the carboy, then after the fermentation has started, maybe 1 to 3 days, simmer the raspberries in some water to sanatize, let it cool some and add it to the fermenting wort. Usually the simmering does some boiling, but I don't worry. Bryan Olson Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 13:41:07 EST From: sterling at bilbo.umcs.maine.edu (Sterling Udell) Subject: AHA Conference Get-together, thermo/hydrometers I think getting the HBD attendees together during the AHA conference in June is a great idea. The first place that comes to mind is the Water Street Brewery, Milwaukee's only brewpub (to the best of my knowledge). That might be pretty crowded the days of the conference, though. Another possibility might be a bar called Zirkrone's (sp?), on the south side - it's a very German place, with an excellent selection of bottled beers and a copy of the Reinheitsgebot posted on the wall. Obviously, there are other bars in the city that would be enjoyable for homebrewers as well. There is some appeal to finding a non-bar location as well, but that would probably depend on a local voulnteering his domicile. Any Milwaukee residents on the digest here? Whaddaya think? Also, a quick followup to the thermo/hydrometer thread . . . Some respondents have pointed out that the temperature range for aquariums is not the same as that for brewing, and hence the thermo/hydrometer would not be terribly useful. I maintain that the temperatures where I care about a hydrometer reading (in the 60-80 degF range) would probably be covered by the thermometer, so I think one of these might be convenient anyway. If I buy one, I'll give a report on its use. I've never seen them in the Crosby & Baker catalog, though. String (who used to live near Milwaukee, and is returning for the conference) - -- Sterling Udell (sterling at gandalf.umcs.maine.edu, sterling at gandalf.bitnet) Big Dog Brewing Cooperative - Eastern Division "Carpe Pisces!" -David Smith Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 09:30:27 PST From: korn at cadre.com (Roger Korn) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #856 (April 03, 1992) >Just curious--what do you do with 35lb of waterlogged grain after the > mash? > Brian Schuth My wife throws the spent grains into the compost. The l'il red worms turn it into fertilizer in about 2 weeks, thence onto the roses and asparagus patch! Roger (korn at cadre.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1992 11:31 PDT From: John Post <POST at VAXT.llnl.gov> Subject: Forced carbonation and Mathematica Hello folks... Sometime ago, somebody (sorry, lost your name!) posted a table of CO2 volume as a function of temperature and pressure. Not having anything else going on, and wanting an excuse to use Mathematica, an associate of mine helped model it. The data is very planr in nature, and is rather interesting when viewed three dimensionally. Should anyone be interested in a copy of the Mathematica file, e- mail me. If I get a huge response, i will attempt to get it on an FTP archive... john post post1 at llnl.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 92 05:44:08 EST From: s882730 at minyos.xx.rmit.OZ.AU (Ralph Kutzner) Subject: Duvel recipe Hi all Ive been reading the archives and being a novice brewer I've learnt a lot. This digest is a great forum. I have a recipe request. I'm an extract brewer and I'm looking for a recipe for Duvel. I've looked in the cats_meow, both of them and in a few books and haven't come up with anything. If someone has a recipe or an idea so I can get started in the right direction I would really appreciate it. Thanks - -- Ralph Kutzner s882730 at yallara.cs.rmit.OZ.AU s882730 at minyos.xx.cs.rmit.OZ.AU Gib mir mein taegliches Bier Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1992 15:26:12 -0500 From: adiron!Scott.Barrett at uunet.UU.NET (adiron!scott at uunet.uu.net) Subject: Mead advice (sought) Dear HBD Brewers, After a dozen extract-based batches of various beer styles, I find myself tempted to try my hand at mead making. Rather than being straightforward about it and making a 5 gallon batch, I would like to split the batch after primary fermentation into a mead, a metheglin, and a fruit mead (hyppocras?). My hope/plan is to begin a 5 gallon batch of mead, perform primary fermentation in a carboy, and then rack into gallon bottles containing appropriate infusions of herbs and/or pasteurized fruit for secondary fermentation. I've read a couple of articles on mead making in Zymurgy and TCJOHB and another small book on mead. But I still have several questions for this august group. 1) Are there pitfalls (other than sanitation) associated with adding fermentables (in the fruit case) at the time I rack to the secondary fermenter? 2) Any suggestions on herbs or spices (and appropriate quantities) that may make for an interesting metheglin? Should I prepare an infusion (like making tea) or use a dry-hopping approach? 3) What are recommended types of yeast for mead making? Any tips on adjusting the amount of honey (to achieve a medium sweetness) when using champagne vs. ale (or other) yeast? 4) Am I totally crazy with this batch-splitting plan? Any and all enlightenment will be greatly appreciated. Yours in brewing, Scott Barrett Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1992 16:09:54 -0500 (EST) From: NCDSTEST at NSSDCA.GSFC.NASA.GOV Subject: big chillers, line constrictions A question for the larger brewers out there (1BBL brewlength). What size is the outlet grant on your kettle. How long does the chilling require? I ask because I intend to take a 1" or larger outlet and divide it into several 3/8" copper lines to chill in parallel (Mike Zenters idea, thanks Mike). Any experience as to geometries and sizing of the manifolds would be appreciated. One thing to remember is that a 1" outlet with ball valve only gives about 1/2 to 3/4" effective throughput due to ball valve construction. If anyone is chilling in parallel, how long are the runs and what is the diameter of the chilling lines. Thanks in advance. Jim Busch ncdstest at nssdca.gsfc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 12:39:28 BST From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at loughborough.ac.uk> Subject: More on ales vs lagers Something possessed me recently to use Gervin Belgian lager yeast with my best bitter formulation; generously dry hopped with Goldings; primary ferment at 12-15 C; no lagering. First impressions were that the brew was 'crisper' than normal, although obviously plenty fruity. I've had the same experience with some continental lagers, but not with those from Britain or the US. I suspect that I was responding to sulphur compounds. - -- Loughborough University of Technology tel : (0509)263171 ext 4164 Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre fax : (0509)610815 Leicestershire LE11 3TU e-mail - (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut G Britain (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 14:39:57 MST From: Eric Mintz <ericm at bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM> Subject: spent grain disposal I haven't had the huevos to try this myself yet but... has anyone dumped their spent grains in a kitchen sink garbage disposal? Any other creative ways to dump spent grains without a mess? I usually dump them into a paper grocery sack lined with a plastic garbage bag but it is one of the messier steps in my brew proceedure (slop over the side, splashing, etc.). - --Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 14:49:26 MST From: Eric Mintz <ericm at bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM> Subject: Re: EASYMASH Brian Batke writes: > I wonder about the durability of these kettles. I bought one a few > months ago. After being used for 4 extract batches, the finish on the > bottom is wearing off and it's starting to rust. It was washed and > dried immediately after use. I hate to think of what it will look > like after a dozen batches. I've used my enameled canning kettle for about 10 batches so far. I got it from a flee market so I'm sure it has seen much more use than that. There were a few chipped places in the enamel when I got it but it has not gotten worse. My only complaint is that the handles are too weak to lift the full kettle. I usually siphon stuff in and out so it's not a big concern. - --Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 16:13:19 CST From: haycook at lobby.ti.com (K. Haycook) Subject: homebrew newsletters the northtexas homebrewers assoc. is in the process of updating there mailing list for their newsletters. The new address for us is nthba c/o Mike Leonard Wine Magic 13931 No. Central Expway suite 320 Dallas, Tx. 75243 Any Club wishing to swap newsletter, either send the info to Mike or you can email me. thanks, ken. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 15:05:49 MST From: Eric Mintz <ericm at bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM> Subject: Liquid Yeast Question Steve Altimari writes: > I activated a Wyeast liquid yeast package on Sunday night. I was > planning to do a partial mash Pale Ale Monday night. The yeast > package was just barely starting to expand so I decided to wait > another day. On Tuesday morning the package was definately expanding > and as fate has it I was unable to brew Tuesday night. It is now > Wed. morning and the package is seriously expanded and looks like it > might explode. Steve, I had a package of yeast expand so tight that I thought it would explode. I sterilized a needle over a flame and made a tiny prick at the top of the yeast package. I stored the package in the frige so that nothing came in contact with the perforation. I used the yeast (the same day) and saw no sign of infection. - --Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 15:19:02 MST From: Eric Mintz <ericm at bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM> Subject: Head color in stouts and porters [Frank Tutzauer asks about head color in stouts and porters] Roasted barley is the only ingredient Papazian lists as an agent to color the head. Roasted barley, black patent, chocolate malt, and crystal all darken the beer. - --Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 15:27:08 MST From: Eric Mintz <ericm at bach.ftcollinsco.NCR.COM> Subject: Brewpubs in Dallas? Dear beer enthusiasts, I'm on my way to Dallas on business next weekend and I was wondering what the favorite brewpubs are in the area (I *know* the Dallas/FtWorth area is big -- but I've got unlimitted mileage :-). Thanks in advance! - --Eric Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 17:36:14 CST From: quinnt at turing.med.ge.com (Tom Quinn 5-4291) Subject: Re: Y'all come from Micah Millspaw Well, Micah's suggestion prompts me to drop an idea I've been wondering about, but haven't had the chance to think through yet. One great pastime in Milwaukee is the tailgate party, an event often raised to an art form by many of its participants. During the summer it's a fun way to start off an evening at the ballpark, while offering a pleasant opportunity to be outside (albeit surrounded by asphalt), enjoy bratwurst in beer sauce, and of course sip some homebrew. And what visit to Milwaukee would be complete without a chance to watch some famous Brewers? So my idea is to have a tailgate party get-together one evening of the AHA conference. The Brewers are in town the evenings of June 9th and 10th against Oakland. Since the evening of the 10th is the opening reception of the conference, I think the 9th would be better. Beer consumption is allowed in the County Stadium parking lots (though the best you'll see inside the park is Leinenkugel's). Tailgate parties often continue long past the start of the game, so folks who are not baseball fans should not be shy about coming - you don't have to actually attend the game to enjoy yourself. And of course many good parties have enough momentum to resume right where they left off once the game has ended... Consider this a proposal I'm sending out to gauge interest in such an event. If enough folks would enjoy this type of outing, I'd be happy to head up an effort to put it together (I live in the Milwaukee area). Of course, if most people would rather not meet at the ballgame, but still want to meet somewhere else, I could probably help arrange that instead. Let me know! Tom Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 3 Apr 92 19:03:25 BST From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at loughborough.ac.uk> Subject: Brown sugar vs molasses A small point, but important perhaps. If your brown sugar flows freely, then it is probably white sugar with caramel colouring added. Pick the sticky stuff - I use 1 lb dark muscuvado to add interest to old ales without thinning the brew out too much. Molasses or treacle are useful sources of unfermentables, but I have trouble finding a place for that sort of taste sensation in any brew. I can only presume that dark sugars are a step along the refinement continuum. - -- Loughborough University of Technology tel : (0509)263171 ext 4164 Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre fax : (0509)610815 Leicestershire LE11 3TU e-mail - (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut G Britain (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: Wednesday, 1 Apr 1992 09:42:37 EST From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Why Lager? Full-Name: Jack S. said: >Thank you. Just for a refreser, although this thread turned >into a sales pitch for Wyeast, my original intent was to >understand why commercial brewers, who are so terribly cost >conscious, would spend so much money to produce lager when their >typical customer could not possibly tell the difference. The usual answer, from my reading on the subject, is that it is much easier to make lagers with no taste and no aftertaste than it is ales. This was certainly true some years ago, and whether it is true any more, with newer techniques, I can not say. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 04 Apr 92 21:18:56 -0900 From: "ACAD3A::FTHAT" <FTHAT%ALASKA.BITNET at CORNELLC.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: Priming with Molasses Last week I bottled an Imperial Stout. I primed with 2/3 to 3/4 of a cup of black-strap molasses. I opened a bottle last night to see how it was coming. It was the most highly carbonated beer I have ever opened. Now I'm beginning to wonder if the wimpy bottles I used will explode. (Not worrying -- yet.) The batch was 6 gallons and should qualify as a barley wine. I used 12 lbs of liquid malt extract, 1 lb of dry malt extract, and about 1.5 lb partial mash of specialty grains. Being lazy I did not measure initial and terminal specific gravity. I used an attenuative yeast for 1 week primary at 70 degrees F and 1 week secondary at 64 degrees F. Fermentation appeared to be over. The beer tastes strong and immature but not sweet. Does anyone have experience/advice regarding priming with molasses? Heidi fthat at alaska.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 5 Apr 92 08:40 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: CAKE MIXES To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling The following exchange indicates that I seem to have forgotten to put on my dancing shoes again.... >From: matth at bedford.progress.COM > Fred Condo Sez: > That he just switched to all grain from extract and felt it was a painless process >In reply to this, Arf Sez: > "Congratulations! Welcome to the club of real homebrewers." > To This I say: > Jack, your attitude bit is stuck. Just because someone doesn't do all grain doesn't mean they aren't "real" homebrewers. I received several similar letters from readers and don't know whether to laugh or cry. For the record, I did not intend to insult anyone but if congratualting someone constitutes an insult, there is little hope for any meaningful dialog. > It's like a 'C' programmer telling an ADA programmer 'You`re not a real programmer because you don't use C'. Not even close. It is more like the difference between baking with cake mixes and baking from scratch. Women/cooks accept the difference, why can't homebrewers? >Many people don't have the time, money, or desire to go all grain. (Right now I don't have the time, and it *is* more time consuming). > Enough said. Not enough at all. Vote the county dry and move out of town? You can not negate the value and effort of people who DO devote "the time, money or desire to go all grain" simply by declaring that YOU don't have the time, anymore than my statement reduces the value of what you are doing. Although the definition of a "real homebrewer" might be subject to debate, I don't think there can be much debate about the fact that making extract beer is NOT really brewing. That's not to say it isn't fun, rewarding and great beer, just that mashing is a fundamental step in the brewing process, without which, one is simply making beer. >From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov> >ps. Since Jack Schmidling lives in the area of the conference I hope he can attend I would like to meet him. I am certain that interesting conversation would insue. I will be there with bells on and a MALTMILL in tow. >From: homer at drutx.att.com Subject: AHA Conference Milwaukee >The AHA conference will be June 9 to 13 at the Marc Plaza Hotel Milwaukee. >For full details contact: AHA Conference PO Box 1679 Boulder CO 80306 (303) 447-0816 (303) 447-2825 fax How bout posting a few details and save the paper shuffle. What is the schedule. I am not likely to want to spend three days so I would like to pick that day based on some rationale. js Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1992 19:00:00 -0500 From: Nick Zentena <nick.zentena at canrem.com> Subject: soda kegs? Hi, Could someone explain to me how to tell the difference between pin and ball lock kegs? Also are the 10gallons kegs the same except for the size? Thanks Nick - --- ~ DeLuxe} 1.21 #9621 ~ nick.zentena at canrem.com - -- Canada Remote Systems - Toronto, Ontario/Detroit, MI World's Largest PCBOARD System - 416-629-7000/629-7044 Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #857, 04/06/92