FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  JACK'S NA  (card)
  Re: Cat's Meow 2 - How do I keep my printer from exploding?  (Richard Foulk)
  Removing blow-off (Conn Copas)
  homebrew "steam" beer and hopping rate (Tony Babinec)
  hopping a steam beer revisited (Bryan Gros)
  Open bucket? (Michael J. Tuciarone)
  SNPA yeast again (Keith Winter)
  Phila. h-brew competition (STAFINIAK)
  Re: Competition Question ("Roger Deschner  ")
  Cat's Meow (Rowka)
  Nepal Alcoholic Beverage (Scott Bickham)
  Shipping Homebrew (Richard Stueven)
  Reviving Red Tail Ale yeast (Brian Smithey)
  RE: Low mash pH (Michael J. Gerard)
  SODA KEG (GC-HSI) <rnapholz at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  IBU'S TO HBU'S  (card)
  IBUs for a steam beer (Frank Tutzauer)
  How a competition works. (/O=vmspfhou/S=nlorscl/DD.SITE=JSCPROFS/)
  Wyeast Number? ("John Cotterill")
  USE OF POLYCLAR AND LACTOSE (Eric Rose)
  Re:  HBUs and IBUs??? (Walter H. Gude)
  Here's the first cut at the pepper beer (SHERRILL_PAUL)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 08:28:01 EDT 
From: card at apollo.hp.com
Subject: JACK'S NA 



  Scott: 

  I think Jack made it perfectly clear what his expectations were. 
  There was a lot of dialog about whether or not it WAS a NA beer, 
  and whether his technique would indeed work. 

  My original tendecy was to tell you to cut the bull, but I'll 
  give you the benefit of the doubt and just say that perhaps 
  you haven't done your homework.                

  
  /Mal Card 

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 04:15:34 HST
From: richard at pegasus.com (Richard Foulk)
Subject: Re: Cat's Meow 2 - How do I keep my printer from exploding? 

>>> Is there anyway I can break up the Cat's Meow 2 recipe book...?
>
>psrev might do it on unix systems if cat's meow is conformant
>postscript (ie, each page is self-contained).
>

No, psrev doesn't like the cat's meow at all.

- -- 
Richard Foulk		richard at pegasus.com

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 16:05:26 BST
From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at loughborough.ac.uk>
Subject: Removing blow-off

>                                    - Bryan
>
>BTW, should I be skimming the foam out of the bucket?  Or was
>this the topic with no consensus?
>
People may remember that I proposed an experiment on this issue a while back.
The basic idea was to take some blow-off, dehydrate it, then add it back to an
acidified water/ethanol solution and note any effects on colour, taste, etc. I
did something like this by taking the blow-off from a 5 gall stout brew and
adding it back to 1 gall of acidified water. OK, I didn't check ethanol
solubility, but I did concentrate the solution by a factor of 5 times what
would normally be encountered. The second thing I did was to take the 1/2 gall
trub remaining after racking into the primary, and give it the same treatment.

As we all know, both blow-off and trub taste foul. The dehydrated trub, in 
particular, was so intensely bitter that not even 1 litre of homebrew, applied
orally, could alleviate the situation :-). The two substances appeared to be
chemically different, as the blow-off dissolved with considerable effervesence,
whilst the trub did not. Actually, the blow-off didn't dissolve, because it
preferred to sit on the bottom, despite all my best stirring efforts. After two
weeks, it had had negligible impact on colour or taste. Conclusion - removing
the blow-off is of questionable utility, unless you subscribe to the view that
the yeast may metabolise it into fusel oil during its anaerobic phase, which is
doubtful as far as I understand it.

The dried trub contained considerable sugar and gave a rehydrated gravity of 6,
with an opaque black colour. The solution tasted pleasantly bitter, which led
me to wonder how much hop utilisation is lost by precipitation. On the strength
of these observations, I decided to add a pound of sugar, some yeast, and
ferment away. I deliberately gave the brew no nutrient and pre-boiled it to
drive off any oxygen. Thus, in theory, I should be making a headache-inducing
brew of fusel oil. At the moment, it is fermenting powerfully and tastes/smells
quite pleasant. I'll keep the list posted on further results, provided I
survive :-)





- -- 
Loughborough University of Technology          tel : (0509)263171  ext 4164
Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre     fax : (0509)610815      
Leicestershire  LE11 3TU           e-mail - (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut   
G Britain                 (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk


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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 10:39:33 CDT
From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec)
Subject: homebrew "steam" beer and hopping rate

In the last HBD, Bryan Gros described his hopping of a "steam" beer.
Is the homebrew "steam" beer adequately hopped?  I'd say that if
it isn't, he didn't miss by much, so relax...

The formula from the Hops Zymurgy issue is:

   gram weight of hops to add = 

   Wort Volume*BU*.001 / (Percent Utilization*Alpha),

and ounce weight of hops = 0.0353*gwh.

In this case, filling in the formula:

   gwh = (18.9*40*.001)/(PU*.085).

Percent utilization is a function of the length of boil.  The Hop
Zymurgy issue lists percent utilization at 30%, or 0.30, for a one
hour boil.  However, you might want to downweight that a little
bit, to take into account hop age, extent to which you attain a
rolling boil, and such.  If you assume PU is 0.30, then one hop
addition at one hour before end of boil should be 1.05 ounces of
your Northern Brewers.  If you assume PU is 0.25, then one hop
addition at one hour before end of boil should be 1.26 ounces of
your Northern Brewers.  Since you split your one ounce addition of
NBs into 0.75 ounces for 60 minutes and 0.25 ounces for 30 minutes,
your bitterness falls a bit short of what it would be if the entire
one ounce were added for an hour, as the above shows that 1.05
ounces would be needed assuming 30% utilization.

If you are concerned that your beer will lack a little in
bitterness, this is all the more reason to dry hop to compensate.
Not that you'd get the same character as if you had boiled, but the
character would certainly be appropriate.  Try Northern Brewers or
even Cascades.  Although by all reports Anchor doesn't use Cascades
in Steam, I think they're appropriate and it's YOUR beer!  Try 1/2 to
1 ounce of Northern Brewers, or 1/2 ounce NB plus 1/2 ounce Cascades.

Doesn't Fred Eckhardt's book show a recent Anchor Steam to be
hopped slightly less than an older one--say, IBU equals 35?  If so,
then your hopping is near-target.  Let's hope that Anchor doesn't
knock that number down, as Anchor Steam is a world-class beer and
just fine as it is!  

The percent utilization ambiguity homebrewers face in practice
helps explain IBU/HBU conversion.  If you assume 30% utilization in
a one-hour boil, then

   HBU = IBU/4.5

while if you assume 25% utilization in a one-hour boil, then

   HBU = IBU/3.8

Hop additions at less than 60 minutes will have a smaller
utilization number.  While it appears that hop utilization is not
a linear function of time, you probably won't be far off by
assuming PU for a 30-minute hop addition to be around 13-15%.

Finally, the 3.8 factor is useful to remember when reading recipes
or the Zymurgy style guidelines.  This is not a criticism of what
is in many ways a very fine book, but Papazian's suggested HBU
additions in one of TNCJOBH style tables in the middle of his book
strike me as somewhat high for some of the styles.  Now, as our
"mileage may very," these may in fact work well for the homebrewer
getting a sort-of boil on the stove.  But, if you use fresh hops
and get a good boil, then take that into account! 

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 08:54:42 PDT
From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros)
Subject: hopping a steam beer revisited

Yesterday I posted a question about IBUs and HBUs and what to
do when the measurements don't line up.

I've got some good responses on how to get the IBUs and convert,
and most people said the numbers I reported (.75oz for 60min,
 .25oz for 30min, .33oz for 2min, 8.5%AA) were a little low, but 
not bad.

Unfortunately I forgot to say that these numbers were for a three
gallon batch.  Now I guess maybe I'm a little high, especiall
since the OG was 1.044.

But thanks for the responses.  We'll see what it tastes like and
chalk it up to experience.
                                     - Bryan

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 09:24:53 PDT
From: tooch at auspex.com (Michael J. Tuciarone)
Subject: Open bucket?

In #870, bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros) wrote:

> I'm fermenting a steam beer right now.  For various reasons,
> my primary fermenter is an open plastic bucket.

I've probably got a misconception here, but when you say "open bucket"
you really mean "plastic bucket with lid, and the lid is on right now,
but there's enough headspace in the bucket to simulate a truly 'open'
bucket," right?

Otherwise, if the bucket is really just open to the air, and you have 
it sitting in your bathtub or garage or whatever, you run the risk of some
errant piece of dust landing in your wort and inoculating it with
God-knows-what kind of yeast, bacterium, or mold.

Anchor ferments its Steam Beer in an open trough, sure, but the trough
is in a clean room under positive pressure. "Don't try this at home."

> My question is, since the Wyest cal. lager yeast is bottom
> fermenting, and I rack into the carboy leaving the stuff on
> the bottom behind, will I leave all my yeast behind?  Or will
> I get enough to finish the fermentation?  Thanks.

The number of yeast cells in suspension is more than our minds can
comprehend. Don't worry.

> BTW, should I be skimming the foam out of the bucket?  Or was
> this the topic with no consensus?

There's no consensus. Note that (a) Anchor doesn't skim their foam, and
(b) not skimming foam can be accomplished while sitting in a La-Z-Boy
drinking a beer.

 ...---...
Mike Tuciarone				Auspex Systems
mike.tuciarone at Auspex.COM		Santa Clara CA 95054
"Who wants to wallow in champagne?"	408-492-0900

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 9:38:35 PDT
From: winter at cirrus.com (Keith Winter)
Subject: SNPA yeast again


Jerome Rainey (jpr at gene.com) writes:
> 
> Hmm, I hope we can resolve this issue: I used yeast cultured
> from a bottle of SNPA for my latest pale ale, which is still
> in secondary.  The thing I noticed about the yeast was that
> there was very little sediment on the bottom when I racked to
> secondary, and that the cap of foam on top (it never
> collapsed) was _very_ thick and sticky, like peanut butter
> in consistency.  That would make sense if I used a specially
> sticky bottling strain to ferment with.  Still, the hydrometer
> sample tasted fine.
> 
> Let's hear it for Sierra Nevada Pale Ale!  Hop hop hooray!
> 
> 

I think, from this posting, that Jerome is asking about whether or not
SN bottle conditions.  This is the case.  According to the information
I got at the brewery, they inject the finished brew (finishing is a
two week process in which the wort is cooled to the low 40's F to precipiate
the yeast) with actively fermenting wort (kraeusening) just before 
bottling/kegging.  That's why we can culture their yeast from the dregs 
of a bottle of SNPA.  Again, it's the same yeast (Wyeast American [Chico] 
Ale yeast - I forget the model number :-).  The rich, creamy head at high
kraeusen is characteristic of this yeast strain.

Keith Winter


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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 13:28 EST
From: STAFINIAK at hermes.psycha.upenn.edu
Subject: Phila. h-brew competition

I apologize if this has been posted already (haven't been keeping up with the
digest lately) and if I don't have complete info but here goes.  The Dock Street
Brewing Co. and Resturaunt will be sponsoring a homebrew competition this
Sunday.  Pre-registration will be held on Friday from 2-6, Saturday 12-5, and
Sunday 9-11 at the brewpub (I think it's located on 18th Street near Logan
Square). I believe judging begins at 11:00. Categories are ales, lagars,smoked
beers, and miscellaneous. Entrants  are asked to bring 3 12-14 oz. bottles.
For more info, call them at (215)496-0413.
								Paul

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Date: 23 April 1992 09:48:19 CDT
From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU>
Subject: Re: Competition Question

eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West) asks:

What Happens to my Three Bottles when I send them to a competition? Let's
pretend we are your bottles.

We arrive via UPS in a securely packed box, at a generous sponsor
brewery, restaurant, or brew-pub. (such as Goose Island in Chicago,
Anchor in San Francisco, etc.) The nice guys at Goose Island stack our
boxes down in the brew-house in a huge pile, where we wait along with a
lot of other entries. At least down here it doesn't get too warm, and its
chummy with all that other beer around. If we're lucky, we're still
right-side-up. Our maker had written a big "UP" arrow on our box, and so
we are lucky indeed.

In a day or so, a "competition organizer" arrives at Goose Island. He's a
homebrewer just like my maker, and so he draws a pint of Goose Island
Porter, to properly prepare himself to deal with us beer bottles. He
unpacks my box, places a numbered sticker on each of us and writes the
number on my paperwork, and places me in a beer case and leaves me in
Goose Island's cooler. The Organizer guy mutters something about "relax,
don't worry, have a homebrew" and we start to worry as he continues
"...and all this homebrew around and none of it to drink." Another pint
of Goose Island Porter settles him down, and makes us feel safer. It's
dark and perfect beer temperature in here, so I feel fine while my
yeast settles back down after shipping, and my paperwork has taken a trip
to the Organizer's home to be entered into a computer.

On competition day, a couple dozen judges gather in Goose Island's
banquet room. They sit three to a table, and each table will judge one
type of beer. I am a German Bock, and one of my three bottles is brought
to their table along with the other German Bocks. The judges open each
bottle, pour a bit into a glass, and judge it. (This process is covered
at length elsewhere.) The end result of it is ***WE WIN***
***HOORAY!!!***. My maker has made the best German Bock in the
competition, and he wins a blue ribbon. (No, not a Pabst product.) Now,
one of us is consumed and two of us are left.

Then the winner of each category goes into "Best of Show". The most
senior judges gather a second bottle of the winning beer from each
category up from the cooler at a large table, and begin. An immediate
problem: When opening one of the other beers, a Munich Weissbeer, it
gushes all over. The judges figure it must be a bad cap, since the first
bottle of that same Weiss was so good, and so they fetch the third bottle
for that entry. It is OK. Finally, it's down to just us and a really good
British Bitter. Two beers left. The judges, however, have used all the
beer in my second bottle already - so out comes my third bottle, and the
third bottle of that ESB, which the judges open and compare. **WE WIN**
My maker's German Bock is the Best of Show, and he gets a nice engraved
pewter beer stein.

What happens to the second and third bottles of the beers that didn't
win? The assembled judges and organizers have one hum-dinger of a party!
They've earned it, because these things are a lot of work to put on. They
drink ALL the homebrew, and make a serious dent into a keg of Goose
Island Honkers Ale before it all ends. The empty bottles are given to
anyone present who wants them for homebrew.

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Date:     Thu, 23 Apr 1992 13:56 EDT
From: 098518 at ROO.FIT.EDU (Rowka)
Subject:  Cat's Meow

Hey Gang!!
	I'm brand new at all this Brewing Stuff, but so far I'm diggin'
it pretty fierce.  I was given one of those "starter kits" that came with
"everything you need to make beer at home!"  
	Well, with it came a can of hopped malt, one of those kits that 
you all seem so fond of........NOT.  All in all, for a first attempt, I 
can't say that I was completely dissapointed.  I want to start doing
something a bit more involved though.  
	What I'm getting at is... How can I get a copy of the Cat's Meow
that I've been reading so much about over these past few days?

	THank you so very very much,
	Danny Rocha

	098518 at roo.fit.edu

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 14:02:30 EDT
From: bickham at msc2.msc.cornell.edu (Scott Bickham)
Subject: Nepal Alcoholic Beverage

Grretings,
	One of our german postdocs described an alcoholic beverage he
consumed while in Nepal.  A large urn partailly filled with millet or
similar grain was brought out, and then hot water was poured over the
top.  It immediately started producing bubbles, and the beverage is
supposed to be consumed through straws.  He described the taste as mostly
hot alcohol, but he doesn't remember much more than that.  It was sold
as "authentic nepalese beer".

	Does anyone know what this concoction is, and is it possible for
fermantation to take place that rapidly?  It would save me a trip to
Nepal if I could get the information here :-)

Scott
- -- 
=========================================================================
C-17 Clark Hall, Cornell University	  |       bickham at msc.cornell.edu
Ithaca, New York         14853-2501       |       bickham at crnlmsc2.bitnet
=========================================================================

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 11:35:19 PDT
From: Richard.Stueven at Corp.Sun.COM (Richard Stueven)
Subject: Shipping Homebrew

The subject of "how can I legally ship my homebrew" comes up time after
time in this group.  Attached is a letter I sent to Charlie Papazian's
Compuserve address on this subject.  I didn't receive a response, but
then I didn't really expect one, since this isn't necessarily the most
appropriate way to contact Charlie the Editor (as opposed to Charlie
the Homebrewer-at-Large :-)

Also, upon reading it a month later, there are some hints of a personal
attack which I certainly didn't intend.  If you're reading this,
Charlie, and I've offended you, I apologize.

Anyway, my points are pretty clear in the letter, I think, and I'd like
to open the subject up for debate here.  Should the AHA get involved in
the politics of homebrewing?  I say, yes!

	From gak Fri Mar 20 16:30:37 1992
	To: 72210.2754 at compuserve.com
	Subject: Shipping Homebrew
	
	Charlie,
	
	Writing in the Spring 1992 _zymurgy_ regarding the shipping of
	homebrew, you said:
	
		Doing it interstate is technically not allowed if not for
		analytical purposes.  How are you going to ship your brews to a
		friend?  I don't know how you'll do it and frankly I don't need
		to be told as long as your friend eventually has the pleasure
		of enjoying your beer.  Shhhh.
	
	Is the official position of the AHA to encourage its members to break
	the law, stupid as it is, in order to share their hobby?  I've always
	considered the purpose of the AHA to encourage homebrewers to
	participate in the Art of Brewing and to share their ideas, recipes,
	procedures (and most importantly, their beer!) and especially to help
	them along the way.  By "help", I mean use the organization to get rid
	of these idiotic, pointlessly restrictive laws.  Let your members know
	to whom they should write to effect these necessary changes.  Make the
	AHA become more than just a clearinghouse for competitions and
	recipes.
	
	You know as well as anyone that this country is in a Prohibitionist
	mood.  To turn a blind eye toward activities that can cause legal
	problems for members, rather than to proactively effect positive
	changes that will free your members from government interference, could
	send the Art of Homebrewing back underground.  We don't need that.
	
	Thanks for listening.
	
	Richard Stueven

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 12:50:35 MDT
From: smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM (Brian Smithey)
Subject: Reviving Red Tail Ale yeast

Has anybody successfully fermemted a batch of homebrew from the yeast
dregs in the bottom of Red Tail Ale?  I've got a couple of bottles at
home, and I'd like to use the yeast if it's viable.

Also, if anybody has used it, I'd appreciate a review of the characteristics
of the finished brew.

Thanks,
Brian
- --
Brian Smithey / Sun Microsystems / Colorado Springs, CO
smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 13:48:25 CDT
From: Michael J. Gerard <mjgerard at eng.auburn.edu>
Subject: RE: Low mash pH
Full-Name: Michael J. Gerard

It sounds like you might want to think about using bottled water.  I'm at Auburn, AL and the water here stinks (literally).  We have some kind of problem (or did) with a cow pasture that was near the water supply.  So basically there's ---- in the water.

I've tried three solutions...

1) buy bottled drinking or spring water (pH after boiling is around 5.5)

2) use a filtering system (pH after boiling is around 5.2)

3) boil longer.  A long boil with the top off should help raise pH.

If you want to keep your costs down you might be able to use some distilled water (with a high pH) and add it to your tap water.  You might get by using two gallons which would only cost you about $1.20.

Hope that helps,


Mike

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Date:     Thu, 23 Apr 92 14:47:44 EDT
From: "Robert J. Napholz" (GC-HSI) <rnapholz at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Subject:  SODA KEG


>From: jal at techbook.com (Jim Larsen)
>Subject: Stainless Steel

>I am in recent receipt of a Cornelius kegging system and I have a 
>few questions regarding its care and feeding.

>1. How does one ferment in steel? 

>2. What are the preferred cleaners/sanitizers for stainless? 

>3. My current Cornelius inventory consists of one five-gallon and 
>one three-gallon. In addition, I have a Firestone I acquired from 
>a generous Coca-Cola driver. I there a simple means to incorporate 
>this into my system, or should I seek to replace it with another 
>Cornelius?

JIM,
   I do all of my fermenting in the carboy, dont think you want any
sediment in the soda keg. As far as cleaners I use massive amounts 
of bleach with out any problems(only one batch, the second one this
weekend).  Try force carbonation works great!!!!

PS  Whats a firestone??  keg??

Rob Napholz


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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 15:52:20 EDT 
From: card at apollo.hp.com
Subject: IBU'S TO HBU'S 



                    4.5 if you assume MAX UTilization of 30
                  /
                 /
  IBU = HBU's (3.75) --- this assumes a utilization factor of 25 
                             
  HBU = IBU/ (3.75) --- this assumes a utilization factor of 25 
                                                     

  EX: Bass ALE  = 20 ibu's = 5.33 HBU's = 5.33 AAU's  

                      or ~ 1oz of goldings 

                      
  BTW, 25 is the U.F. that terry Miller uses in his Pale Ale book
  recipes. Eckhart also states that 25 is a good starting point for 
  the homebrewer. 
              

  /Mal Card 



  p.s. I derived this simple formula using Eckhart and Papazian formulas. 
       along with some help from HBD. 

  p.p.s. I too said "no wonder my brews have been too hoppy". 
                  

  p.p.s. You may note that your all-grain hop rate may need to be 
         reduced if you are comparing with your old extract recipes. 

         IE. 12 HBU's in an extract boil, yields a lower utilization 
             than 12HBU's in an all grain recipe. 
   
         


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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1992 17:28 EST
From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu>
Subject: IBUs for a steam beer

Bryan Gros asks about IBUs in steam beers. 

Anchor bitters with 33 IBUs for their steam beer.  In my own brews of interest
(4 extract-based steam beers), I have tried the high 30s and low 40s, and the
results were usually a little too bitter (although one of them, with a high
finishing gravity, was a little too sweet).  Next time I try I'm going to
shoot for the low 30s.

As for Bryan's particular numbers, below are the answers I got.  I've written
a short BASIC program that does the calculations for me.  I use the equations
in Charlie II.  As for the utilization rates, I don't use Charlie's table
directly; instead, I use a regression equation given to me by Tom
Hettmansperger.  The equation explains 99% of the variation in Charlie's
table, and allows me to estimate utilizations for non-tabled times and
gravities.  The assumptions I'm making for Bryan's problem are as follows.
First, I'm assuming a 2-3 gallon boil with a gravity of about 1.110.  If you
do a larger boil (giving a lower gravity), the IBUs you get will be higher, so
you'll have to adjust the quantities/times down.  Second, I'm assuming a 5
gallon batch.  Third, I'm assuming hop pellets; if you use leaf hops, you'll
get lower utilizations, so you'll need to increase quantities/times.  Finally,
I'm assuming Bryan's alpha of 8.5%.

First, Bryan considers 13-14 HBUs, i.e. 1.5 ounces.  A sixty minute boil will
give almost 46 IBUs.  To get the 35-40 IBUs Bryan talks about, you would need
to add fewer hops.  1.15 oz. gets 35 IBUs and 1.30 gives 40, assuming a sixty
minute boil.  When Bryan uses the "formula in Papazian or the Zymurgy issue"
he gets 1/2 oz.  I'm not sure exactly which formulae he's talking about, but
my program shows that 1/2 oz. in a 60 minute boil yields just over 15 IBUs.
Finally, Bryan's compromise of 3/4 oz. for 60 min., 1/4 oz for 30 min., and
1/3 oz. flavoring (1 min., say) yields 23 + 4 + 1 = 28 IBUs, which is probably
ok if the California Lager yeast is attenuative enough.

And then again, remember that a bunch of other stuff--kettle geometry, boil
vigor, pH, etc.--affect hop utilization, so these numbers are all
approximations anyway.  If anyone wants to look at the program, or if anyone
wants me to redo the calculations assuming different times, alphas, or
gravities, let me know.

- --frank

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 14:39 PDT
From: /O=vmspfhou/S=nlorscl/DD.SITE=JSCPROFS/ at NASAmail.nasa.gov
Subject: How a competition works.


***************************** PROFS Note *****************************
 From: NLORSCL --VMSPFHOU            Date and time  04/23/92 16:43:43
 To: POSTMAN --NASAMAIL

 FROM: LAMB, SEAN C. LOR
 SUBJECT: How a competition works.
 In regards to Carl West's question about how a competition works, here's the
 quick run-down.  There are three types of people involved, the orgnaizers,
 stewards and judges.  Your beer shows up at the orgnaizer's place, where
 they log your entry, put an entry number on your bottles, and put your
 bottles with entries from the same category.  Hopefully they are stored in the
 proverbial cool dry place, out of direct light.  Preparation for the judging
 includes making up the summary score sheets for each category, and merging
 categories if there are too few entries.  The night before the competition,
 the beer is cooled down, and made ready for transport to the competition site
 if it is different from the storage site.  At the competition site, the beer
 is arranged by category and made ready for the stewards.  The stewards are
 volunteers who open the beer and pour it for the judges.  The judges evaluate
 the beer, usualy using the AHA 50 point evaluation criteria.  If there are not
 many entries in a category, the judges may decide to award 1st thru 3rd places
 in this first round.  If there are many entries and the category is split
 between groups of judges, the beers that are not boviously flawed are sent to
 a second round.  One bottle of beer is used in the 1st round.

 During the second round, the stewards once again popen and present the beer to
 the judges.  1st 2nd and 3rd places are awarded.  The 1st place beer in each
 category is then judged for best of show.  This is where the 3rd bottle is
 used.  Best of show is usually judged by 4 qualified judges.  There is no
 score sheet used, they just go at it to determine which of the beers before
 them is really the best.  It can take time and lead to arguments.
 During the 1st 2 rounds, the score sheets are collected by the stewards and
 given to the data slaves for tabulation.  Most competitions will send the
 individual score sheets back to you.
 What happens to the left-over beer?  It's up to the discretion of the organizer
 s, but usually the vultures get it.  I ask the judges of my favorite styles
 about the quality of the entries, and if I find some people that tell me how
 tough it was, judging all that good beer, I go for it.

 And now it's my turn for a question, where can I get Iodophor?  Do you make it
 at home, or do you buy it?  Thanks in advance.  Hope
 that this description helped.

 LAMB, SEAN C. LOR


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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 16:05:43 PDT
From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Wyeast Number?
Full-Name: "John Cotterill"

Does anyone have the phone number at Wyeast?  I have a 1056 question that only
they can answer.  Thanks....
JC
johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 20:24:51 EDT
From: Eric Rose <rose at aecom.yu.edu>
Subject: USE OF POLYCLAR AND LACTOSE

Hiedeehoo,

I need some advice on the use of polyclar, that miracle of modern technology
to whisk those tannins out of my beer.  I plan to add it at bottling time.

MUST I BOIL IT?  (for sanitization)

CAN I BOIL IT?  (in water, that is:  will it just melt and be useless?)


and about lactose, can anyone give me an idea of how much to use in a 5-gallon
batch?  I'm making a raspberry-wheat beer, and I want some sweetness to
bring out the raspberry taste.  I've got 8oz of lactose.  Should I use it all?

peas,

- -- 
          ***************************************
          *                                     *
          * Eric Rose                           *
          * Albert Einstein College of Medicine *
          * 1300 Morris Park Avenue             *
          * Bronx, NY 10461 USA                 *
          *                                     *
          * INTERNET:  rose at aecom.yu.edu        *
          *                                     *
          ***************************************

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Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 11:38:43 CDT
From: whg at tellabf.tellabs.com (Walter H. Gude)
Subject: Re:  HBUs and IBUs???

Funny you should ask.  I dredged the collective knowledge of the HBD on this
very subject a while ago.  Following are my responses.
 
 So with 35 IBUs = 7.8 - 8.9 AA pellets 
		  (8.2 - 9.5 AA whole leaf) or about  1 oz.

		
If your not doing a full boil (or if the recipe was formulated that way)
you'll have a higher gravity in the boil and utilization will go down.
(If you boil 2.5 gallon and the 5gal have a 1.045 G then the boil has
a gravity of 1.090.  This will cause hop utilization to go down by 20%,
and you'll need around 10 AAUs to get 35-40 IBUs) Confused? I know I am? :-)

________________________________________________________________________

To: whg%tellabf.tellabs.com at juts.ccc.amdahl.com, * at amail.amdahl.com
Status: RO

     IBU =  HBU * (%utilization / (gallons * 1.34))

One number I remember for utilization is 30%, for 60 minute boils of standard
(1.040) worts.  In that case, then:

     IBU = HBU * (30 / (gallons * 1.34))

archive site) gives 30% for pellet and 28% for leaf for a 60 minute boil in a


>From srussell at snoopy.msc.cornell.edu Thu Mar 12 11:25:17 1992

Jackie Rager's article in the Hops special issue says to divide the
factor you would get w/o considering gravity by a correction factor of:

1 + 5(G-1.050)

for G > 1.050 (and leave it at 1 for G < 1.050)

_______________________________________________________


From: Frank Tutzauer <uunet!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!COMFRANK>
variables.  The formula is:

U = exp{-23.63 + .12896*t + 37.76*s - .00068496*t^2 - 18.01*s^2 -.04187*t*s}

where U, t, and s are of course utilization, time, and s.g, and where exp
means raise e to the bracketted power (e = 2.7182...).  Now, many other things





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Date: 23 Apr 92 14:16:00 +1700
From: SHERRILL_PAUL at Tandem.COM
Subject: Here's the first cut at the pepper beer

Most replies said to attempt to introduce the pepper's into the
beer as late as possible. So I am going to just put a slice
in a few bottles and see how it goes. This way I don't blow a
whole 5 gallons on this little perversion of mine.

Here's the whole recipe:

     6 lbs anderson light malt extract
     8 oz light crystal
     1.5 oz cascade (boiling)
     0.5 oz cascade (finishing)
     Wyeast pilser yeast

Ferment at 50 degrees (primary). Secondary at 45 degrees.
At bottling place a piece of pepper in a dozen bottles. Some
serranos, some jalapenos and a variety of sizes.

That's what I call a lawnmowing beer.

paul

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #871, 04/24/92