HOMEBREW Digest #871 Fri 24 April 1992

Digest #870 Digest #872

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  JACK'S NA  (card)
  Re: Cat's Meow 2 - How do I keep my printer from exploding?  (Richard Foulk)
  Removing blow-off (Conn Copas)
  homebrew "steam" beer and hopping rate (Tony Babinec)
  hopping a steam beer revisited (Bryan Gros)
  Open bucket? (Michael J. Tuciarone)
  SNPA yeast again (Keith Winter)
  Phila. h-brew competition (STAFINIAK)
  Re: Competition Question ("Roger Deschner  ")
  Cat's Meow (Rowka)
  Nepal Alcoholic Beverage (Scott Bickham)
  Shipping Homebrew (Richard Stueven)
  Reviving Red Tail Ale yeast (Brian Smithey)
  RE: Low mash pH (Michael J. Gerard)
  SODA KEG (GC-HSI) <rnapholz at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  IBU'S TO HBU'S  (card)
  IBUs for a steam beer (Frank Tutzauer)
  How a competition works. (/O=vmspfhou/S=nlorscl/DD.SITE=JSCPROFS/)
  Wyeast Number? ("John Cotterill")
  Re:  HBUs and IBUs??? (Walter H. Gude)
  Here's the first cut at the pepper beer (SHERRILL_PAUL)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 08:28:01 EDT From: card at apollo.hp.com Subject: JACK'S NA Scott: I think Jack made it perfectly clear what his expectations were. There was a lot of dialog about whether or not it WAS a NA beer, and whether his technique would indeed work. My original tendecy was to tell you to cut the bull, but I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and just say that perhaps you haven't done your homework. /Mal Card Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 04:15:34 HST From: richard at pegasus.com (Richard Foulk) Subject: Re: Cat's Meow 2 - How do I keep my printer from exploding? >>> Is there anyway I can break up the Cat's Meow 2 recipe book...? > >psrev might do it on unix systems if cat's meow is conformant >postscript (ie, each page is self-contained). > No, psrev doesn't like the cat's meow at all. - -- Richard Foulk richard at pegasus.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 16:05:26 BST From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at loughborough.ac.uk> Subject: Removing blow-off > - Bryan > >BTW, should I be skimming the foam out of the bucket? Or was >this the topic with no consensus? > People may remember that I proposed an experiment on this issue a while back. The basic idea was to take some blow-off, dehydrate it, then add it back to an acidified water/ethanol solution and note any effects on colour, taste, etc. I did something like this by taking the blow-off from a 5 gall stout brew and adding it back to 1 gall of acidified water. OK, I didn't check ethanol solubility, but I did concentrate the solution by a factor of 5 times what would normally be encountered. The second thing I did was to take the 1/2 gall trub remaining after racking into the primary, and give it the same treatment. As we all know, both blow-off and trub taste foul. The dehydrated trub, in particular, was so intensely bitter that not even 1 litre of homebrew, applied orally, could alleviate the situation :-). The two substances appeared to be chemically different, as the blow-off dissolved with considerable effervesence, whilst the trub did not. Actually, the blow-off didn't dissolve, because it preferred to sit on the bottom, despite all my best stirring efforts. After two weeks, it had had negligible impact on colour or taste. Conclusion - removing the blow-off is of questionable utility, unless you subscribe to the view that the yeast may metabolise it into fusel oil during its anaerobic phase, which is doubtful as far as I understand it. The dried trub contained considerable sugar and gave a rehydrated gravity of 6, with an opaque black colour. The solution tasted pleasantly bitter, which led me to wonder how much hop utilisation is lost by precipitation. On the strength of these observations, I decided to add a pound of sugar, some yeast, and ferment away. I deliberately gave the brew no nutrient and pre-boiled it to drive off any oxygen. Thus, in theory, I should be making a headache-inducing brew of fusel oil. At the moment, it is fermenting powerfully and tastes/smells quite pleasant. I'll keep the list posted on further results, provided I survive :-) - -- Loughborough University of Technology tel : (0509)263171 ext 4164 Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre fax : (0509)610815 Leicestershire LE11 3TU e-mail - (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut G Britain (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 10:39:33 CDT From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: homebrew "steam" beer and hopping rate In the last HBD, Bryan Gros described his hopping of a "steam" beer. Is the homebrew "steam" beer adequately hopped? I'd say that if it isn't, he didn't miss by much, so relax... The formula from the Hops Zymurgy issue is: gram weight of hops to add = Wort Volume*BU*.001 / (Percent Utilization*Alpha), and ounce weight of hops = 0.0353*gwh. In this case, filling in the formula: gwh = (18.9*40*.001)/(PU*.085). Percent utilization is a function of the length of boil. The Hop Zymurgy issue lists percent utilization at 30%, or 0.30, for a one hour boil. However, you might want to downweight that a little bit, to take into account hop age, extent to which you attain a rolling boil, and such. If you assume PU is 0.30, then one hop addition at one hour before end of boil should be 1.05 ounces of your Northern Brewers. If you assume PU is 0.25, then one hop addition at one hour before end of boil should be 1.26 ounces of your Northern Brewers. Since you split your one ounce addition of NBs into 0.75 ounces for 60 minutes and 0.25 ounces for 30 minutes, your bitterness falls a bit short of what it would be if the entire one ounce were added for an hour, as the above shows that 1.05 ounces would be needed assuming 30% utilization. If you are concerned that your beer will lack a little in bitterness, this is all the more reason to dry hop to compensate. Not that you'd get the same character as if you had boiled, but the character would certainly be appropriate. Try Northern Brewers or even Cascades. Although by all reports Anchor doesn't use Cascades in Steam, I think they're appropriate and it's YOUR beer! Try 1/2 to 1 ounce of Northern Brewers, or 1/2 ounce NB plus 1/2 ounce Cascades. Doesn't Fred Eckhardt's book show a recent Anchor Steam to be hopped slightly less than an older one--say, IBU equals 35? If so, then your hopping is near-target. Let's hope that Anchor doesn't knock that number down, as Anchor Steam is a world-class beer and just fine as it is! The percent utilization ambiguity homebrewers face in practice helps explain IBU/HBU conversion. If you assume 30% utilization in a one-hour boil, then HBU = IBU/4.5 while if you assume 25% utilization in a one-hour boil, then HBU = IBU/3.8 Hop additions at less than 60 minutes will have a smaller utilization number. While it appears that hop utilization is not a linear function of time, you probably won't be far off by assuming PU for a 30-minute hop addition to be around 13-15%. Finally, the 3.8 factor is useful to remember when reading recipes or the Zymurgy style guidelines. This is not a criticism of what is in many ways a very fine book, but Papazian's suggested HBU additions in one of TNCJOBH style tables in the middle of his book strike me as somewhat high for some of the styles. Now, as our "mileage may very," these may in fact work well for the homebrewer getting a sort-of boil on the stove. But, if you use fresh hops and get a good boil, then take that into account! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 08:54:42 PDT From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros) Subject: hopping a steam beer revisited Yesterday I posted a question about IBUs and HBUs and what to do when the measurements don't line up. I've got some good responses on how to get the IBUs and convert, and most people said the numbers I reported (.75oz for 60min, .25oz for 30min, .33oz for 2min, 8.5%AA) were a little low, but not bad. Unfortunately I forgot to say that these numbers were for a three gallon batch. Now I guess maybe I'm a little high, especiall since the OG was 1.044. But thanks for the responses. We'll see what it tastes like and chalk it up to experience. - Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 09:24:53 PDT From: tooch at auspex.com (Michael J. Tuciarone) Subject: Open bucket? In #870, bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros) wrote: > I'm fermenting a steam beer right now. For various reasons, > my primary fermenter is an open plastic bucket. I've probably got a misconception here, but when you say "open bucket" you really mean "plastic bucket with lid, and the lid is on right now, but there's enough headspace in the bucket to simulate a truly 'open' bucket," right? Otherwise, if the bucket is really just open to the air, and you have it sitting in your bathtub or garage or whatever, you run the risk of some errant piece of dust landing in your wort and inoculating it with God-knows-what kind of yeast, bacterium, or mold. Anchor ferments its Steam Beer in an open trough, sure, but the trough is in a clean room under positive pressure. "Don't try this at home." > My question is, since the Wyest cal. lager yeast is bottom > fermenting, and I rack into the carboy leaving the stuff on > the bottom behind, will I leave all my yeast behind? Or will > I get enough to finish the fermentation? Thanks. The number of yeast cells in suspension is more than our minds can comprehend. Don't worry. > BTW, should I be skimming the foam out of the bucket? Or was > this the topic with no consensus? There's no consensus. Note that (a) Anchor doesn't skim their foam, and (b) not skimming foam can be accomplished while sitting in a La-Z-Boy drinking a beer. ...---... Mike Tuciarone Auspex Systems mike.tuciarone at Auspex.COM Santa Clara CA 95054 "Who wants to wallow in champagne?" 408-492-0900 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 9:38:35 PDT From: winter at cirrus.com (Keith Winter) Subject: SNPA yeast again Jerome Rainey (jpr at gene.com) writes: > > Hmm, I hope we can resolve this issue: I used yeast cultured > from a bottle of SNPA for my latest pale ale, which is still > in secondary. The thing I noticed about the yeast was that > there was very little sediment on the bottom when I racked to > secondary, and that the cap of foam on top (it never > collapsed) was _very_ thick and sticky, like peanut butter > in consistency. That would make sense if I used a specially > sticky bottling strain to ferment with. Still, the hydrometer > sample tasted fine. > > Let's hear it for Sierra Nevada Pale Ale! Hop hop hooray! > > I think, from this posting, that Jerome is asking about whether or not SN bottle conditions. This is the case. According to the information I got at the brewery, they inject the finished brew (finishing is a two week process in which the wort is cooled to the low 40's F to precipiate the yeast) with actively fermenting wort (kraeusening) just before bottling/kegging. That's why we can culture their yeast from the dregs of a bottle of SNPA. Again, it's the same yeast (Wyeast American [Chico] Ale yeast - I forget the model number :-). The rich, creamy head at high kraeusen is characteristic of this yeast strain. Keith Winter Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 13:28 EST From: STAFINIAK at hermes.psycha.upenn.edu Subject: Phila. h-brew competition I apologize if this has been posted already (haven't been keeping up with the digest lately) and if I don't have complete info but here goes. The Dock Street Brewing Co. and Resturaunt will be sponsoring a homebrew competition this Sunday. Pre-registration will be held on Friday from 2-6, Saturday 12-5, and Sunday 9-11 at the brewpub (I think it's located on 18th Street near Logan Square). I believe judging begins at 11:00. Categories are ales, lagars,smoked beers, and miscellaneous. Entrants are asked to bring 3 12-14 oz. bottles. For more info, call them at (215)496-0413. Paul Return to table of contents
Date: 23 April 1992 09:48:19 CDT From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Re: Competition Question eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West) asks: What Happens to my Three Bottles when I send them to a competition? Let's pretend we are your bottles. We arrive via UPS in a securely packed box, at a generous sponsor brewery, restaurant, or brew-pub. (such as Goose Island in Chicago, Anchor in San Francisco, etc.) The nice guys at Goose Island stack our boxes down in the brew-house in a huge pile, where we wait along with a lot of other entries. At least down here it doesn't get too warm, and its chummy with all that other beer around. If we're lucky, we're still right-side-up. Our maker had written a big "UP" arrow on our box, and so we are lucky indeed. In a day or so, a "competition organizer" arrives at Goose Island. He's a homebrewer just like my maker, and so he draws a pint of Goose Island Porter, to properly prepare himself to deal with us beer bottles. He unpacks my box, places a numbered sticker on each of us and writes the number on my paperwork, and places me in a beer case and leaves me in Goose Island's cooler. The Organizer guy mutters something about "relax, don't worry, have a homebrew" and we start to worry as he continues "...and all this homebrew around and none of it to drink." Another pint of Goose Island Porter settles him down, and makes us feel safer. It's dark and perfect beer temperature in here, so I feel fine while my yeast settles back down after shipping, and my paperwork has taken a trip to the Organizer's home to be entered into a computer. On competition day, a couple dozen judges gather in Goose Island's banquet room. They sit three to a table, and each table will judge one type of beer. I am a German Bock, and one of my three bottles is brought to their table along with the other German Bocks. The judges open each bottle, pour a bit into a glass, and judge it. (This process is covered at length elsewhere.) The end result of it is ***WE WIN*** ***HOORAY!!!***. My maker has made the best German Bock in the competition, and he wins a blue ribbon. (No, not a Pabst product.) Now, one of us is consumed and two of us are left. Then the winner of each category goes into "Best of Show". The most senior judges gather a second bottle of the winning beer from each category up from the cooler at a large table, and begin. An immediate problem: When opening one of the other beers, a Munich Weissbeer, it gushes all over. The judges figure it must be a bad cap, since the first bottle of that same Weiss was so good, and so they fetch the third bottle for that entry. It is OK. Finally, it's down to just us and a really good British Bitter. Two beers left. The judges, however, have used all the beer in my second bottle already - so out comes my third bottle, and the third bottle of that ESB, which the judges open and compare. **WE WIN** My maker's German Bock is the Best of Show, and he gets a nice engraved pewter beer stein. What happens to the second and third bottles of the beers that didn't win? The assembled judges and organizers have one hum-dinger of a party! They've earned it, because these things are a lot of work to put on. They drink ALL the homebrew, and make a serious dent into a keg of Goose Island Honkers Ale before it all ends. The empty bottles are given to anyone present who wants them for homebrew. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1992 13:56 EDT From: 098518 at ROO.FIT.EDU (Rowka) Subject: Cat's Meow Hey Gang!! I'm brand new at all this Brewing Stuff, but so far I'm diggin' it pretty fierce. I was given one of those "starter kits" that came with "everything you need to make beer at home!" Well, with it came a can of hopped malt, one of those kits that you all seem so fond of........NOT. All in all, for a first attempt, I can't say that I was completely dissapointed. I want to start doing something a bit more involved though. What I'm getting at is... How can I get a copy of the Cat's Meow that I've been reading so much about over these past few days? THank you so very very much, Danny Rocha 098518 at roo.fit.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 14:02:30 EDT From: bickham at msc2.msc.cornell.edu (Scott Bickham) Subject: Nepal Alcoholic Beverage Grretings, One of our german postdocs described an alcoholic beverage he consumed while in Nepal. A large urn partailly filled with millet or similar grain was brought out, and then hot water was poured over the top. It immediately started producing bubbles, and the beverage is supposed to be consumed through straws. He described the taste as mostly hot alcohol, but he doesn't remember much more than that. It was sold as "authentic nepalese beer". Does anyone know what this concoction is, and is it possible for fermantation to take place that rapidly? It would save me a trip to Nepal if I could get the information here :-) Scott - -- ========================================================================= C-17 Clark Hall, Cornell University | bickham at msc.cornell.edu Ithaca, New York 14853-2501 | bickham at crnlmsc2.bitnet ========================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 11:35:19 PDT From: Richard.Stueven at Corp.Sun.COM (Richard Stueven) Subject: Shipping Homebrew The subject of "how can I legally ship my homebrew" comes up time after time in this group. Attached is a letter I sent to Charlie Papazian's Compuserve address on this subject. I didn't receive a response, but then I didn't really expect one, since this isn't necessarily the most appropriate way to contact Charlie the Editor (as opposed to Charlie the Homebrewer-at-Large :-) Also, upon reading it a month later, there are some hints of a personal attack which I certainly didn't intend. If you're reading this, Charlie, and I've offended you, I apologize. Anyway, my points are pretty clear in the letter, I think, and I'd like to open the subject up for debate here. Should the AHA get involved in the politics of homebrewing? I say, yes! From gak Fri Mar 20 16:30:37 1992 To: 72210.2754 at compuserve.com Subject: Shipping Homebrew Charlie, Writing in the Spring 1992 _zymurgy_ regarding the shipping of homebrew, you said: Doing it interstate is technically not allowed if not for analytical purposes. How are you going to ship your brews to a friend? I don't know how you'll do it and frankly I don't need to be told as long as your friend eventually has the pleasure of enjoying your beer. Shhhh. Is the official position of the AHA to encourage its members to break the law, stupid as it is, in order to share their hobby? I've always considered the purpose of the AHA to encourage homebrewers to participate in the Art of Brewing and to share their ideas, recipes, procedures (and most importantly, their beer!) and especially to help them along the way. By "help", I mean use the organization to get rid of these idiotic, pointlessly restrictive laws. Let your members know to whom they should write to effect these necessary changes. Make the AHA become more than just a clearinghouse for competitions and recipes. You know as well as anyone that this country is in a Prohibitionist mood. To turn a blind eye toward activities that can cause legal problems for members, rather than to proactively effect positive changes that will free your members from government interference, could send the Art of Homebrewing back underground. We don't need that. Thanks for listening. Richard Stueven Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 12:50:35 MDT From: smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM (Brian Smithey) Subject: Reviving Red Tail Ale yeast Has anybody successfully fermemted a batch of homebrew from the yeast dregs in the bottom of Red Tail Ale? I've got a couple of bottles at home, and I'd like to use the yeast if it's viable. Also, if anybody has used it, I'd appreciate a review of the characteristics of the finished brew. Thanks, Brian - -- Brian Smithey / Sun Microsystems / Colorado Springs, CO smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 13:48:25 CDT From: Michael J. Gerard <mjgerard at eng.auburn.edu> Subject: RE: Low mash pH Full-Name: Michael J. Gerard It sounds like you might want to think about using bottled water. I'm at Auburn, AL and the water here stinks (literally). We have some kind of problem (or did) with a cow pasture that was near the water supply. So basically there's ---- in the water. I've tried three solutions... 1) buy bottled drinking or spring water (pH after boiling is around 5.5) 2) use a filtering system (pH after boiling is around 5.2) 3) boil longer. A long boil with the top off should help raise pH. If you want to keep your costs down you might be able to use some distilled water (with a high pH) and add it to your tap water. You might get by using two gallons which would only cost you about $1.20. Hope that helps, Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 14:47:44 EDT From: "Robert J. Napholz" (GC-HSI) <rnapholz at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: SODA KEG >From: jal at techbook.com (Jim Larsen) >Subject: Stainless Steel >I am in recent receipt of a Cornelius kegging system and I have a >few questions regarding its care and feeding. >1. How does one ferment in steel? >2. What are the preferred cleaners/sanitizers for stainless? >3. My current Cornelius inventory consists of one five-gallon and >one three-gallon. In addition, I have a Firestone I acquired from >a generous Coca-Cola driver. I there a simple means to incorporate >this into my system, or should I seek to replace it with another >Cornelius? JIM, I do all of my fermenting in the carboy, dont think you want any sediment in the soda keg. As far as cleaners I use massive amounts of bleach with out any problems(only one batch, the second one this weekend). Try force carbonation works great!!!! PS Whats a firestone?? keg?? Rob Napholz Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 15:52:20 EDT From: card at apollo.hp.com Subject: IBU'S TO HBU'S 4.5 if you assume MAX UTilization of 30 / / IBU = HBU's (3.75) --- this assumes a utilization factor of 25 HBU = IBU/ (3.75) --- this assumes a utilization factor of 25 EX: Bass ALE = 20 ibu's = 5.33 HBU's = 5.33 AAU's or ~ 1oz of goldings BTW, 25 is the U.F. that terry Miller uses in his Pale Ale book recipes. Eckhart also states that 25 is a good starting point for the homebrewer. /Mal Card p.s. I derived this simple formula using Eckhart and Papazian formulas. along with some help from HBD. p.p.s. I too said "no wonder my brews have been too hoppy". p.p.s. You may note that your all-grain hop rate may need to be reduced if you are comparing with your old extract recipes. IE. 12 HBU's in an extract boil, yields a lower utilization than 12HBU's in an all grain recipe. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1992 17:28 EST From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu> Subject: IBUs for a steam beer Bryan Gros asks about IBUs in steam beers. Anchor bitters with 33 IBUs for their steam beer. In my own brews of interest (4 extract-based steam beers), I have tried the high 30s and low 40s, and the results were usually a little too bitter (although one of them, with a high finishing gravity, was a little too sweet). Next time I try I'm going to shoot for the low 30s. As for Bryan's particular numbers, below are the answers I got. I've written a short BASIC program that does the calculations for me. I use the equations in Charlie II. As for the utilization rates, I don't use Charlie's table directly; instead, I use a regression equation given to me by Tom Hettmansperger. The equation explains 99% of the variation in Charlie's table, and allows me to estimate utilizations for non-tabled times and gravities. The assumptions I'm making for Bryan's problem are as follows. First, I'm assuming a 2-3 gallon boil with a gravity of about 1.110. If you do a larger boil (giving a lower gravity), the IBUs you get will be higher, so you'll have to adjust the quantities/times down. Second, I'm assuming a 5 gallon batch. Third, I'm assuming hop pellets; if you use leaf hops, you'll get lower utilizations, so you'll need to increase quantities/times. Finally, I'm assuming Bryan's alpha of 8.5%. First, Bryan considers 13-14 HBUs, i.e. 1.5 ounces. A sixty minute boil will give almost 46 IBUs. To get the 35-40 IBUs Bryan talks about, you would need to add fewer hops. 1.15 oz. gets 35 IBUs and 1.30 gives 40, assuming a sixty minute boil. When Bryan uses the "formula in Papazian or the Zymurgy issue" he gets 1/2 oz. I'm not sure exactly which formulae he's talking about, but my program shows that 1/2 oz. in a 60 minute boil yields just over 15 IBUs. Finally, Bryan's compromise of 3/4 oz. for 60 min., 1/4 oz for 30 min., and 1/3 oz. flavoring (1 min., say) yields 23 + 4 + 1 = 28 IBUs, which is probably ok if the California Lager yeast is attenuative enough. And then again, remember that a bunch of other stuff--kettle geometry, boil vigor, pH, etc.--affect hop utilization, so these numbers are all approximations anyway. If anyone wants to look at the program, or if anyone wants me to redo the calculations assuming different times, alphas, or gravities, let me know. - --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 14:39 PDT From: /O=vmspfhou/S=nlorscl/DD.SITE=JSCPROFS/ at NASAmail.nasa.gov Subject: How a competition works. ***************************** PROFS Note ***************************** From: NLORSCL --VMSPFHOU Date and time 04/23/92 16:43:43 To: POSTMAN --NASAMAIL FROM: LAMB, SEAN C. LOR SUBJECT: How a competition works. In regards to Carl West's question about how a competition works, here's the quick run-down. There are three types of people involved, the orgnaizers, stewards and judges. Your beer shows up at the orgnaizer's place, where they log your entry, put an entry number on your bottles, and put your bottles with entries from the same category. Hopefully they are stored in the proverbial cool dry place, out of direct light. Preparation for the judging includes making up the summary score sheets for each category, and merging categories if there are too few entries. The night before the competition, the beer is cooled down, and made ready for transport to the competition site if it is different from the storage site. At the competition site, the beer is arranged by category and made ready for the stewards. The stewards are volunteers who open the beer and pour it for the judges. The judges evaluate the beer, usualy using the AHA 50 point evaluation criteria. If there are not many entries in a category, the judges may decide to award 1st thru 3rd places in this first round. If there are many entries and the category is split between groups of judges, the beers that are not boviously flawed are sent to a second round. One bottle of beer is used in the 1st round. During the second round, the stewards once again popen and present the beer to the judges. 1st 2nd and 3rd places are awarded. The 1st place beer in each category is then judged for best of show. This is where the 3rd bottle is used. Best of show is usually judged by 4 qualified judges. There is no score sheet used, they just go at it to determine which of the beers before them is really the best. It can take time and lead to arguments. During the 1st 2 rounds, the score sheets are collected by the stewards and given to the data slaves for tabulation. Most competitions will send the individual score sheets back to you. What happens to the left-over beer? It's up to the discretion of the organizer s, but usually the vultures get it. I ask the judges of my favorite styles about the quality of the entries, and if I find some people that tell me how tough it was, judging all that good beer, I go for it. And now it's my turn for a question, where can I get Iodophor? Do you make it at home, or do you buy it? Thanks in advance. Hope that this description helped. LAMB, SEAN C. LOR Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 16:05:43 PDT From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com> Subject: Wyeast Number? Full-Name: "John Cotterill" Does anyone have the phone number at Wyeast? I have a 1056 question that only they can answer. Thanks.... JC johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 20:24:51 EDT From: Eric Rose <rose at aecom.yu.edu> Subject: USE OF POLYCLAR AND LACTOSE Hiedeehoo, I need some advice on the use of polyclar, that miracle of modern technology to whisk those tannins out of my beer. I plan to add it at bottling time. MUST I BOIL IT? (for sanitization) CAN I BOIL IT? (in water, that is: will it just melt and be useless?) and about lactose, can anyone give me an idea of how much to use in a 5-gallon batch? I'm making a raspberry-wheat beer, and I want some sweetness to bring out the raspberry taste. I've got 8oz of lactose. Should I use it all? peas, - -- *************************************** * * * Eric Rose * * Albert Einstein College of Medicine * * 1300 Morris Park Avenue * * Bronx, NY 10461 USA * * * * INTERNET: rose at aecom.yu.edu * * * *************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 92 11:38:43 CDT From: whg at tellabf.tellabs.com (Walter H. Gude) Subject: Re: HBUs and IBUs??? Funny you should ask. I dredged the collective knowledge of the HBD on this very subject a while ago. Following are my responses. So with 35 IBUs = 7.8 - 8.9 AA pellets (8.2 - 9.5 AA whole leaf) or about 1 oz. If your not doing a full boil (or if the recipe was formulated that way) you'll have a higher gravity in the boil and utilization will go down. (If you boil 2.5 gallon and the 5gal have a 1.045 G then the boil has a gravity of 1.090. This will cause hop utilization to go down by 20%, and you'll need around 10 AAUs to get 35-40 IBUs) Confused? I know I am? :-) ________________________________________________________________________ To: whg%tellabf.tellabs.com at juts.ccc.amdahl.com, * at amail.amdahl.com Status: RO IBU = HBU * (%utilization / (gallons * 1.34)) One number I remember for utilization is 30%, for 60 minute boils of standard (1.040) worts. In that case, then: IBU = HBU * (30 / (gallons * 1.34)) archive site) gives 30% for pellet and 28% for leaf for a 60 minute boil in a >From srussell at snoopy.msc.cornell.edu Thu Mar 12 11:25:17 1992 Jackie Rager's article in the Hops special issue says to divide the factor you would get w/o considering gravity by a correction factor of: 1 + 5(G-1.050) for G > 1.050 (and leave it at 1 for G < 1.050) _______________________________________________________ From: Frank Tutzauer <uunet!ubvms.cc.buffalo.edu!COMFRANK> variables. The formula is: U = exp{-23.63 + .12896*t + 37.76*s - .00068496*t^2 - 18.01*s^2 -.04187*t*s} where U, t, and s are of course utilization, time, and s.g, and where exp means raise e to the bracketted power (e = 2.7182...). Now, many other things Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Apr 92 14:16:00 +1700 From: SHERRILL_PAUL at Tandem.COM Subject: Here's the first cut at the pepper beer Most replies said to attempt to introduce the pepper's into the beer as late as possible. So I am going to just put a slice in a few bottles and see how it goes. This way I don't blow a whole 5 gallons on this little perversion of mine. Here's the whole recipe: 6 lbs anderson light malt extract 8 oz light crystal 1.5 oz cascade (boiling) 0.5 oz cascade (finishing) Wyeast pilser yeast Ferment at 50 degrees (primary). Secondary at 45 degrees. At bottling place a piece of pepper in a dozen bottles. Some serranos, some jalapenos and a variety of sizes. That's what I call a lawnmowing beer. paul Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #871, 04/24/92