HOMEBREW Digest #876 Tue 05 May 1992

Digest #875 Digest #877

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Homebrew Digest #875 (May 04, 1992) (Ege Serim)
  RE Mitch Gelly's post (S94WELKE)
  Recycling Yeast (Brian Smithey)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #875 (May 04, 1992) (ZAPPULLA)
  Uncompressibility/Mead (Dances with Workstations)
  Yeast Und Gas (Jeff Frane)
  draft systems
  Cat's meow 2 ("David E. Husk")
  Reusing yeast  (MEHTA01)
  thanks to all who helped. (MEHTA01)
  Brewing Yeast Rumours (Darren Evans-Young)
  NA Beer - the Schmidling Method ("Jean B. Hunter")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 04 May 92 15:51:41 GMT From: Ege Serim <S901322%EMUNIVM1.BITNET at pucc.Princeton.EDU> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #875 (May 04, 1992) Dear Brewers; I subscribed to this list quite recently when I saw it on the listservs list... I have always wondered about fermentation and making home-brews... Im am currently studying in the wonderfull island of Cyprus (actually doing my BSc on Electronic Eng.) A corner of earth touched by heaven... Anyway let me come back to the point I tried a little experiment a week ago. Mixing 5 litres of grape juice into 3 table spoons full yeast boiled in 2 cups of water and about two full cups of sugar... And put the whole mixture in a plastic sealed container with a airlock lid| I know the whole thing soudns silly and I already knew about wine turning into vinegar when in contact with air but to smell it I lifted up the airlock lid as i did so because of the preasure inside the whole thing blew up in my face.... NOW since my knowledge on fermentation is no more than I learnt in biology in high school please someone guide me on how to make my first dry wine? I know that I need a proper airlock| and maybe some other stuff too... SO PLEASEEEE HELLPPP Ege Serim.... <S901322 at EMUNIVM1> Keen beer/wine enthusiast| Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 May 92 09:41 EST From: <S94WELKE%USUHSB.bitnet at VTVM2.CC.VT.EDU> Subject: RE Mitch Gelly's post Hear hear. - --Scott Welker Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 May 92 09:59:23 MDT From: smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM (Brian Smithey) Subject: Recycling Yeast >>>>> In HBD #875, mccamljv at ldpfi.dnet.dupont.com writes: Joel> I am looking for a less maintenance intensive yeast 'culturing' Joel> method. [ ... ] Joel> I have seen numerous mention of people re-using the yeast slurry Joel> from the primary or secondary. Would anyone care to post a Joel> procedure/process/primer on how to get 2-3 batches from one Joel> packet of yeast (liquid or otherwise). Joel, Try saving the slurry from primary in sanitized jars in your refrigerator. I haven't done this myself, as I rarely use the same yeast for two consecutive batches of beer, but I was reading through the Zymurgy yeast special last night (again), and this method was mentioned as a good first step towards home yeast maintenance. Try to use the yeast as soon as possible, I think the article said a week was ok. There was also some information on pitching volume that you might find useful, you want to get 40 billion cells pitched into 5 gallons of wort, and 1 cup of slurry from primary should do it. So should 10 puffed up Wyeast packages :-) Speaking of yeast, a follow-up on my Red Tail Ale yeast query of a week ago: I went ahead and pitched the dregs from two bottles of unknown age into an 8 oz starter and attached an air-lock. I finally saw some activity about 4 or 5 days later, which wasn't a quick enough start for me to be confident about brewing with it. Anyway, the yeast is viable; I'd suspect that it's very similar to Sierra Nevada's yeast, as it sticks very well to the bottom of the bottle (as does SN), and the Mendicino Brewing Co. in Hopland, CA (brewers of Red Tail Ale) is fairly close to Chico. By the way, they also make a seasonal (Winter) ale called Eye of the Hawk, a strong ale whose yeast sediment looks very Chimay like; those of you who can find this beer may have better luck reusing this yeast rather than Chimay, as it will probably be fresher (in the Winter, anyway) and will probably have seen less rough handling than a beer that has been imported from Belgium. Joel> -Joel McCamley "Constantly Relaxing, Not Worrying and Joel> Having a Homebrew!" Brian - -- Brian Smithey / Sun Microsystems / Colorado Springs, CO smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 May 1992 13:18 EST From: ZAPPULLA%MIDD.BITNET at mitvma.mit.edu Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #875 (May 04, 1992) Please remove me from this list ASAP...I do not want this mail and I never asked for it. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 May 92 13:41:30 EDT From: Dances with Workstations <buchman at marva2.ENET.dec.com> Subject: Uncompressibility/Mead > Here's an example of one other thing not to worry about. > Water (and presumably beer) is essentially an incompressible > fluid. That means that if you push on the top of it harder > basically nothing happens. (this has nothing to do with beer, but...) my brother got a very good illustration of this incompressibility when a friend of his went four-wheeling in a stream with his Ford Bronco. Water shot up the air intake and into the cylinders. When the pistons came down on the cylinders for the next cycle, they encountered water, which does not compress, instead of air, which does. The resulting force on the pistons bent the cam shafts into fairly severe angles (and cam shafts are very thick, strong pieces of metal) and the engine had to be rebuilt. Come to think of it, this does have to do with beer, since they probably had a few before going out on this ride. BUT it wasn't homebrew... that must have been their error :) On a beer-related topic: our last mead fermented down to .997, and was so dry that it tasted like champagne. We're not complaining, (it was/is fabulous) but what is the approved way of achieving a sweeter mead? Two alternatives I've heard are: - use a less attenuative yeast than Champagne. - spike the batch with grain alcohol to inhibit the yeast at the level of sweetness desired. This prevents you from then carbonating the mead, though. Thanks, Jim Buchman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 May 92 10:05:28 PDT From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Yeast Und Gas > > Date: Fri, 1 May 92 09:46:14 -0400 > From: mccamljv at ldpfi.dnet.dupont.com > Subject: Recycling Yeast to: Joel McCamley Re-using yeast slurry is quite simple, especially if you are going to use it immediately. If you're going to store it for a few weeks, you need to wash it. (see below) To recover the yeast, simply leave a small amount of beer in the secondary when you bottle or keg -- just enough liquid to dissolve the yeast pack. Flame the neck of the carboy and then pour the slurry into a sterile jar (I like peanut butter jars because they have a wide mouth)and refrigerate. Because you're not plating out the yeast to check for purity, the general rule is that you should only re-pitch once (but then, you have a LOT of slurry in that jar and don't need to use it all when you pitch the next batch). Dave has recommended to me that if something needs to be stored for more than a couple of weeks, it be re-started with some fresh wort before pitching, just to get everything lively. Yeast Washing for the Homebrewer The following notes were taken from a demonstration given to the Oregon Brew Crew by Dave Logsdon of WYeast Labs, on September 12th. According to Dave, it was important for healthy yeast to be washed free of trub and hop residue so that it could be stored for future use. Dave said that the problem with simply storing the mixed contents from a carboy after fermentation was that the unwanted particulates would suffocate the yeast over a period of time. Most breweries, Dave stressed, use an acid wash; the sterile water wash is much more practical for homebrewers. Objective: To recover yeast from a finished batch of beer for repitching or storage for future brewing. Materials: One primary fermenter after beer has been siphoned off or otherwise removed. Three sanitized 1-quart Mason jars with lids, half full of sterile or boiled water. They should be cooled down, then chilled to refrigerator temperature (ca. 38^F). Procedures: 1) Sanitize the opening of the carboy (flame or wipe with chlorine or alcohol) 2) Pour the water from one of the quart jars into the carboy. Swirl the water to agitate the yeast, hop residue and trub from the bottom. 3) Pour contents from the carboy back into the empty jar and replace the cover. 4) Agitate the jar to allow separation of the components. Continue to agitate periodically until obvious separation is noticeable. 5) While the viable yeast remains in suspension, pour off this portion into the second jar. Be careful to leave as much of the hops and trub behind as possible. 6) Agitate the second container to again get as much separation of yeast from particulate matter as possible. Allow contents to rest (about 1/2 hour to 1 hour) then pour off any excess water-- and floating hop particles--from the surface. 7) Pour off yeast fraction which suspends above the particulate into the third container.* Store this container up to 1 month refrigerated. Pour off liquid and add wort 2 days before brewing or repitch into a new brew straight away. *It should be noted that in the actual demonstration, Dave eliminated the final step; the yeast in the second jar was essentially clean at this stage and seemingly fine for storage. To: Nick Zentena Subject: draft systems > Hi, > I just invested in a draft system. Does > anybody have any helpfull hints for the new > kegger? > Thanks > Nick I find I get the best results by letting the beer clear very thoroughly in the carboy before I keg. Then I sterilize everything thoroughly and had priming sugar to the keg, and rack on top of it. (Usually I also throw in a bag full of hops, but that's just because I love hops!) Then I tighten down the valves thoroughly, put on the top and hook up the gas. I pump CO2 on top of the beer, then bleed it out, pump it in, bleed it out, etc. until I'm pretty sure I've flushed out any O2; then bleed off the CO2 so the beer can carbonate by itself. >>>Make sure the beer is finished before it goes into the keg or be prepared to bleed the CO2 daily. As someone else has pointed out, an excess of CO2 will severely inhibit the fermentation and may interfere with flocculation. Some people like to cut off the bottom 3/4" or so of the flow tube so that the first draw leaves behind any yeast. I prefer to suck the yeast out completely so it won't get stirred up if the keg gets bumped. One of the reasons I let it clear in the carboy is so that little yeast is left: the beers clears more quickly and there's less in the bottom of the keg. I tried using finings once but have found it to be completely unnecessary, particularly with a good flocculator like 1056/Sierra N. I can usually start drinking the beer within a week after it's kegged, although the conditioning and the flavor (especially with dry-hopping) improve if I hold off another week or two. With proper conditioning you shouldn't have to add any CO2, even during the use of the keg. If you do, just pump in about 10 psi and then turn off the gas. If you leave it on you can easily over-carbonate the beer. On the other hand, of course, if you _do_ over-carbonate, you can also bleed gas off with the release valve. If you're going to dry-hop, don't use naked hop pellets. This is the voice of experience, believe me. They will glue themselves back together and plug up your Out valve. No beer will get into your glass. This is BAD. And when you bleed of the gas and open it up, and take off the valve, beer will shoot straight up and hit your basement ceiling. This is also BAD. Trust me. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Mon May 4 17:03:30 1992 From: "David E. Husk" <deh7g at newton.acc.Virginia.EDU> Subject: Cat's meow 2 I've been busy lately and missed the info on the new Cat's meow 2 book. Could someone mail me a copy or tell me where to ftp a copy in PageMaker format? Thanks >>>>>>> Freedom times security is a constant. <<<<<<< Husk at virginia.edu David Husk Physics Bldg/UVA 804 924 6799 McCormick Rd Charlottesvile, Va 22901 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 May 1992 19:34:45 -0500 (CDT) From: MEHTA01 at SWMED.UTEXAS.EDU Subject: Reusing yeast Here's what i do (from reading previous HBDs and asking around): After bottling fermented homebrew (and taking ample samples to ensure the quality of the fermentation :-)) ), shake up the slurry from the almost empty SECONDARY fermentor and bottle (fill 1/3 of bottle) in 3-4 bottles. Put in fridge until ready to use. i make sure the bottles are clean (dishwasher) and that's it!! i use Glosch-type bottles, and when i need yeast for my next batch, i simply open bottle and pour half into starter (or even into wort) and it works (:^)) !! Of course i have never really done a second passage reuse (i.e. resuse the slurry from this second generatoin of yeast), but it should be ok!! The yeast have stayed in the fridge as long as 4-6 months before use, and they start up happily and ferment very smoothly. Good luck. Shreefal Mehta Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 4 May 1992 19:42:22 -0500 (CDT) From: MEHTA01 at SWMED.UTEXAS.EDU Subject: thanks to all who helped. A few months ago, i posted some questions on procedure with problems of persistent cloudiness in beer. Well, thanks to some very patient and kind replies and suggestions, i have now got two all-extract batches that are my best ever!! and CLEAR!! Errors i corrected: i thought conversoin wasn't occurring as i was iodine-testing the husk residue. After letting the haze settle during mashing, i now test in the more clear supernantant and the magic works!! i was boiling for too short a time: i now boil for one hour (SBT std. boiling time) and this probably helped a lot too. Now just one more quickie: After boiling, as i am letting the wort cool a little on the stove, how do most people get the wort off the hot break leafy coudlets precipitate? Is there some trick? Do you just wait a while? It seems a shame, after boiling to get this sexy hot break, to just throw it all (well, most of it) in to the primary while pouring... i pour onto ice-cold water through a bed of ice; this cools it fast enough. Thanks again for the wonderful support group ;-) Happy brewing Shreefal Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 04 May 92 19:51:58 CDT From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at ua1vm.ua.edu> Subject: Brewing Yeast Rumours Can someone verify whether Red Star and Whitbread have stopped producing their dry brewing yeast? I know I've read this somewhere but I cannot find it in my archives. Thanks. Darren Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 04 May 92 23:51:18 EDT From: "Jean B. Hunter" <MS3Y at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: NA Beer - the Schmidling Method Howdy fellow brewers - My first post on this having apparently been lost into the bit bucket of the Internet, here goes again: HPLC results on alcohol content of Jack's beers are in! The method appears to remove 60 to 70% of the alcohol from the beer, based on an estimate that an ordinary homebrewed ale will run 4% to 4.5% alcohol by weight. Jack sent me samples from two batches of NA beer which I analyzed against Labatt's 50 and Freeport NA Brew as controls. Labatt's 50: 3.51% alcohol by weight Jack's batch 1: 1.51% Jack's batch 2: 1.76% Freeport NA Brew 0.00% The bottle that Jack sent me for tasting developed a small mold colony at the meniscus during storage; so did the other glass bottle which was not carbonated. The Batch 2 sample in the plastic bottle did not develop mold. A lesson here is that low alcohol beers are probAbly more prone to infection than full-alcohol beers. I apologize to Jack for the surprise posting of a review of the taste of his NA beer that had become contaminated with mold. At the end of a workshop on beer faults and off-flavors, I served several homebrewed and commercial beers with distinctive flavor profiles -= including Molson, Yuengling Porter, Rodenbach, and Freeport NA Brew. Jack's brew was served as a comparison to the commercial NA brew, but unfortunately the subtle "low ethanol" attribute was masked by the various intense herbal flavors in the beer. Bottom line on batch flash distillation to remove ethanol: Using Jack's method of a slow heat to 170C and a slow cool to room temp, you can remove over half the the alcohol in homebrew. A valid review of the effects of the "Schmidling method" on flavor is not possible at this point. Any more experimenters out there? Thanks, Jack, for sending your beer for analysis, and again, sorry for the delays. Cheers and beers -- Jean Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #876, 05/05/92