HOMEBREW Digest #882 Fri 15 May 1992

Digest #881 Digest #883

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Change address unsub! (TSAMSEL)
  Hop poles (Jeff J. Miller)
  strawberry mead (Dennis R. Sherman)
  Beer Head and Fruit (fjdobner)
  Marcado Mill? (Alan Mayman)
  Big Prizes (korz)
  AHA competitions from Micah Millspaw ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Fine sediment (Scott Jay)
  r.c.b only?  Say it ain't so... (J. Fingerle)
  Later, brew-dudes (Malt-Fermenter Gelly)
  pre-boiling (Brian Bliss)
  Boiling pots (Kenneth Haney)
  Beer Hunter (Jeanne Sova ASQNC-TAB-IS 5320)
  propane cookers for sale (dave ballard)
  Brewing at high altitude (S94WELKER)
  Autoclaveable Air Lock (John Isenhour)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 14 May 1992 7:51:29 -0400 (EDT) From: TSAMSEL at ISDRES.ER.USGS.GOV Subject: Change address unsub! I have been trying to cancel this list and change it to my current, more appropriate (and cheaper) address. Resub to TBSAMSEL at QVARSA.ER.USGS.GOV.. Thanks, Ted Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 8:33:56 CDT From: jmiller at anubis.network.com (Jeff J. Miller) Subject: Hop poles Sorry I didn't think of mentioning it earlier, but I think I found a truely great way to grow/harvest hops. Make a flag pole and run the hop strings up it for growing, and lower for harvest. I did this this year by taking 4 10' 2x4's and joined them with LOTS of screws to make a 20' 4x4. Then I rigged it with two sets of pulleys (needed to run a flag as well as hops :) and planted it 5 feet in the ground. Finally, I attached a 2" ring on the hop side cord and then attached strings to the ring. Finally I took staked the other end of the hop ropes to the ground, adjusted the lengths, and ran them up the pole. I now have 9 very happy vines growing that are easily over 9 feet tall. I'm really looking forward to harvest this year! - -- Jeff Miller Network Systems Corporation Internetwork Group 7600 Boone Avenue North jmiller at network.com Minneapolis MN 55428 (612)424-4888 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 1992 09:52 EDT From: SHERMAN%TRLN.decnet at uncvx1.acs.unc.edu (Dennis R. Sherman) Subject: strawberry mead The strawberries are ripe, and my wife picked lots of them! I'm interested in making a strawberry mead, and while I'm quite capable of inventing a recipe myself, I'm happy to listen to other people's ideas on how to go about it. So, how would you go about it? *--------------------------------------------------------------------* * Dennis R. Sherman Triangle Research Libraries Network * * dennis_sherman at unc.edu Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill * *--------------------------------------------------------------------* Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 08:53 CDT From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com Subject: Beer Head and Fruit Brewers, I have one comment and one question: 1. Regarding the point at which fruit should be added in the homebrewing process, my conclusion was the following: Adding fruit anywhere in the boil would cause haze in the end. Therefore, assuming that a lighter style beer is the desired product my intention with my first batch next month is to add it to the secondary so that bacteria and the wild things are not encouraged due to the alcohol content present there. However, should a darker beer be sought (cherry stout for instance), I do not believe there should be a problem in adding the fruit to the boil, if appearance is all that is at stake. 2. I have about two years and a few dozen batches behind me now and I have a question regarding beer head. I have brewed both extract and grain beers, but I have the persistent problem of a short-lived head. Meaning that the head does not last long in the glass soon after it is poured. Initially after the beer is poured it is a nice uniformly small-bubbled creamy head but does not last long. I had a problem with crushing my grain too finely which I have corrected. I also thought about how much detergent may have been used in cleaning the glasses and have corrected that already. Could water quality affect head? Could the presence of both cold and hot break in the fermenter destroy head? I could use some experience and knowledge on this issue. Thanks Frank Dobner Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 09:01:37 -0400 From: Alan Mayman <maymanal at scvoting.fvo.osd.mil> Subject: Marcado Mill? Howdy All, Someone posted, not too long ago, about an Italian grain mill (Marcado?) that I can't seem to find anywhere in the state of Virginia. Could the poster of that message, or anyone who knows where to get one, email me about it. I'd really be dysfunctionally happy if I could find one. A thousand thanks, Alan Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 09:41 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Big Prizes Micah Millspaw writes: > I've heard some rumors about the prize situation in the AHA national >homebrew competition. First, in the winter issue of zymurgy it was said >that the prizes for 92 would be announced in the spring issue, they where >not. And now I have heard that there will be no big prizes this year. >At $7.50 (for members) and $9.50 (for non-members) entry fee,the investment >in entering is hardly offset. Unless the AHA makes some changes, this years >2300 or so entries may be as big as it gets. Lower entry fees and lower >shipping cost will make the local competitions look a lot better. The entry fees never have, nor do I think ever will, cover the cost of BIG prizes. I assume that you are talking about trips to Norway, etc. These BIG prizes are provided by sponsors. I am not associated with the AHA other than being a member (I'm not an officer or anything -- I'm not even a Zymurgy author yet), but I'll bet the AHA (as well as its membership) would be very grateful if you could convince a few importers or breweries to sponsor some prizes. I believe that annually, the AHA prints a financials report. I've seen one and I assure you that no one at the AHA is getting rich. Maybe someone who knows for sure, can comment on where the $7.50/$9.50 goes. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 10:52:35 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: AHA competitions from Micah Millspaw Well, I don't enter for the prizes. I enter for the feedback (of course, I'm not expecting to win any prizes at this stage in my brewing development) and recognition of my peers. I say, if you're only in it for the money, good riddance! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 12:19:45 -0300 From: pgsjay at atlas.cs.upei.ca (Scott Jay) Subject: Fine sediment I want to say thanks to all those who answered my query re. beer styles. It helped alot for all of us novice brewers in my brewgroup, FAB. Now I have another question! Last evening I tried some of my latest brew - a lager, probably actually a steam or common beer (thanks) - and noticed a deposit of fine sediment up the sides of the bottle, almost to the neck. When poured, this fine material mixed with the beer making it cloudy. I did not notice an off flavour - actually it was quite good :-) - but the beer did not look pleasing. Is this normal (i.e. does it happen often)? How could I have prevented it? I did rack into a secondary fermenter and racked again just before bottling. /////// //// /////// // // // // // Scott Jay /////// //////// /////// pgsjay at atlas.cs.upei.ca // // // // // // // // // // Forestry Association // // // /////// of Brewers Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 13:28:01 EDT From: fingerle at NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL (J. Fingerle) Subject: r.c.b only? Say it ain't so... sterling at gandalf.umcs.maine.edu (Sterling Udell) recently wrote... >I would strongly vote against the HBD being replaced with r.c.b, for a >number of reasons.... For the sake of bandwidth savings, I won't relist them, but let me say that I AGREE with all three. He then concluded by saying... >Well, I guess I can climb down off my soapbox now, and slake my thirst >with a cool ale. Ahhh, that's better. Other opinions? >String uh, yeah, can I have a swig, I'm done with the soapbox. /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\ name: Jimmy Nothing kills a good arguement email: fingerle at NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL like someone looking up the facts. -or- fingerle at NADC.NAVY.MIL -Bill Lyon \/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 1992 12:59 CDT From: Malt-Fermenter Gelly <GELLY at VAXA.CIS.UWOSH.EDU> Subject: Later, brew-dudes Hey brewers, Thank you all for the fun and info on this list. I am graduating on the 16th and that is also when all of my accounts die. I am not sure when I will have access to internet again, so for now......... Relax, don't worry, and have a HOMEBREW !!!! ( I know I will be having plenty this weekend ) See you in Milwaukee (One of the "scarlet H" crowd), Mitch Gelly gelly at vaxa.cis.uwosh.edu gellym at ernie.cis.uwosh.edu , only valid till the 16th - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ "By this time, my lungs were aching for air.." Crow T. Robot, MST3K - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 13:07:48 CDT From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: pre-boiling >On to mashing...is there any advantage to using pre-boiled water in the >mash? What about the sparge water? How about the water I use to take a >shower the night before? You should pre-boil the water you use in your mash, in order to driver off the chlorine. If you don't, the chlorine will create a buffer, and the grains will not lower the ph appropriately. >From my experience, if I did not boil off the chlorine, I could not get the mash ph below 5.8 or 5.9, no matter how much gypsum I added, but if I pre-boiled the water, I could reach the recommended mash ph of 5.3 quite easily. Now days I preboil the mash water and add a tsp of gypsum and leave it at that, especially when making dark beers; It's hard to get an accurate reading when the dark malts in the wort stain the ph paper. bb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 10:41:09 MDT From: haney at soul.ampex.com (Kenneth Haney) Subject: Boiling pots Hi, I was wondering if someone could tell me ..... When brewing all grain beer, why you need to boil the whole batch at once in one pot? Why can't you do it like with extracts and boil 2-3 gallons and add them to preboiled cooled water in the fermenter? Thanks Ken haney at ampex.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 92 14:40:24 EDT From: Jeanne Sova ASQNC-TAB-IS 5320 <jsova at APG-9.APG.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Beer Hunter Hey guys, I seem to remember someone saying they had a copy of the Beer Hunter. Is there a way to get this original without waiting for it to come back on t.v. and taping it? Where would I order it from? Thanks for any info. Jeanne Return to table of contents
Date: 14 May 1992 15:24 EDT From: dab at dasher.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard) Subject: propane cookers for sale Hey now- I just got a copy of the Bass Pro Shop's Summer Camping Sale Catalog (say that three times fast). Inside they have a couple of propane fish/beer cookers for sale. Here's the info: Fish cooker- comes with 10qt steel pot and aluminum basket. 170K btu's, comes with hose/regulator. $54.95 All-purpose country cooker- compact size (no dimensions given) 160K btu's, comes with hose/regulator $59.95 stainless steel- 14" cooking surface, cast iron burner fish cooker 160K btu's. comes with 3gal ss pot and basket, low and high legs, hose and regulator $119.97 2-burner cooker- 14"x28" cooking surface, 160K btu's comes with hose/regulator $79.95 3-burner cooker- 14"x42", 136K btu's $119.95 There you have it. Bass can be reached at 1-800-227-7776. iko- dab ========================================================================= dave ballard "Life may not be the party we hoped for, dab at dasher.cc.bellcore.com but while we're here we should dance." ========================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 May 1992 16:08 EDT From: S94WELKER at usuhs Subject: Brewing at high altitude Just another data point: At a Belgian beer tasting I attended at the Brickskeller in DC a few weeks back, the owner of the New Belgium Brewery in Boulder, CO, mentioned the first time he tried to send some of his wonderful trappist ale (previously found mostly at elevations above 6,000 feet), the stuff was pretty flat. So if you're used to acieving a certain degree of carbonation with X amount of priming sugar, consider increasing it if the beer will be consumed closer to sea level. That way, you'll have a nice foamy head on your homebrew (which you're drinking to help you not worry about the toothpaste tube that exploded in your underwear) when you visit friends in San Francisco. - --Scott Welker Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 15 May 92 0:01:41 CDT From: hopduvel!john at linac.fnal.gov (John Isenhour) Subject: Autoclaveable Air Lock I finally came to the conclusion that I want to try to innoculate a 30 gallon batch of wort by starting the yeast like this... petri dish -> quart mason jar -> gallon jug To this end I have aquired a real nice (brand -> 'All American') mondo size pressure cooker. It will hold a gallon glass jug (the kind apple juice comes in) with an air lock, upright. I am looking for a autoclavable air lock of the type which can do reverse flow (for when it cools). Anyone know where I can get such a beast, or have an idea for how to make one? tnx! - -- John, The Hop Devil renaissance scientist and AHA/HWBTA certified Beer Judge isenhour at lambic.fnal.gov hopduvel!john at fnal.gov isenhour at vax001.kenyon.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #882, 05/15/92