FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Change address unsub! (TSAMSEL)
  Hop poles (Jeff J. Miller)
  strawberry mead (Dennis R. Sherman)
  Beer Head and Fruit (fjdobner)
  Marcado Mill? (Alan Mayman)
  Big Prizes (korz)
  AHA competitions from Micah Millspaw ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Fine sediment (Scott Jay)
  r.c.b only?  Say it ain't so... (J. Fingerle)
  Later, brew-dudes (Malt-Fermenter Gelly)
  pre-boiling (Brian Bliss)
  Boiling pots (Kenneth Haney)
  Beer Hunter (Jeanne Sova ASQNC-TAB-IS 5320)
  propane cookers for sale (dave ballard)
  Brewing at high altitude (S94WELKER)
  Autoclaveable Air Lock (John Isenhour)


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Date:    Thu, 14 May 1992 7:51:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: TSAMSEL at ISDRES.ER.USGS.GOV
Subject: Change address unsub!

  I have been trying to cancel this list and change it to my current,
more appropriate (and cheaper) address.
  Resub  to TBSAMSEL at QVARSA.ER.USGS.GOV..
  Thanks,
   Ted

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Date: Thu, 14 May 92 8:33:56 CDT
From: jmiller at anubis.network.com (Jeff J. Miller)
Subject: Hop poles


Sorry I didn't think of mentioning it earlier, but I think I found
a truely great way to grow/harvest hops.  Make a flag pole and run
the hop strings up it for growing, and lower for harvest.

I did this this year by taking 4 10' 2x4's and joined them with LOTS
of screws to make a 20' 4x4.  Then I rigged it with two sets of
pulleys (needed to run a flag as well as hops :) and planted it 5
feet in the ground.  Finally, I attached a 2" ring on the hop side
cord and then attached strings to the ring.  Finally I took staked
the other end of the hop ropes to the ground, adjusted the lengths,
and ran them up the pole.  I now have 9 very happy vines growing
that are easily over 9 feet tall.  I'm really looking forward to
harvest this year!

- -- 
Jeff Miller                 Network Systems Corporation
Internetwork Group          7600 Boone Avenue North
jmiller at network.com         Minneapolis MN 55428   (612)424-4888

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Date:     Thu, 14 May 1992 09:52 EDT
From: SHERMAN%TRLN.decnet at uncvx1.acs.unc.edu (Dennis R. Sherman)
Subject:  strawberry mead

The strawberries are ripe, and my wife picked lots of them!  I'm
interested in making a strawberry mead, and while I'm quite capable of
inventing a recipe myself, I'm happy to listen to other people's ideas
on how to go about it.  So, how would you go about it? 

*--------------------------------------------------------------------*
* Dennis R. Sherman  	         Triangle Research Libraries Network *
* dennis_sherman at unc.edu       Univ. of North Carolina - Chapel Hill *
*--------------------------------------------------------------------*

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Date: Thu, 14 May 92 08:53 CDT
From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com
Subject: Beer Head and Fruit


Brewers,

I have one comment and one question:

1. Regarding the point at which fruit should be added in the homebrewing
process, my conclusion was the following: Adding fruit anywhere in the
boil would cause haze in the end. Therefore, assuming that a lighter style
beer is the desired product my intention with my first batch next month
is to add it to the secondary so that bacteria and the wild things are
not encouraged due to the alcohol content present there. However, should
a darker beer be sought (cherry stout for instance), I do not believe there
should be a problem in adding the fruit to the boil, if appearance is all
that is at stake.

2. I have about two years and a few dozen batches behind me now and I have
a question regarding beer head. I have brewed both extract and grain beers,
but I have the persistent problem of a short-lived head. Meaning that the
head does not last long in the glass soon after it is poured. Initially
after the beer is poured it is a nice uniformly small-bubbled creamy head
but does not last long. I had a problem with crushing my grain too finely
which I have corrected. I also thought about how much detergent may have
been used in cleaning the glasses and have corrected that already. Could
water quality affect head? Could the presence of both cold and hot break
in the fermenter destroy head? I could use some experience and knowledge
on this issue. 

Thanks

Frank Dobner

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Date: Thu, 14 May 92 09:01:37 -0400
From: Alan Mayman <maymanal at scvoting.fvo.osd.mil>
Subject: Marcado Mill?

Howdy All,

Someone posted, not too long ago, about an Italian grain mill (Marcado?) that I can't seem to
find anywhere in the state of Virginia.

Could the poster of that message, or anyone who knows where to get one, email me 
about it.  I'd really be dysfunctionally happy if I could find one.

A thousand thanks,

Alan

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Date: Thu, 14 May 92 09:41 CDT
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: Big Prizes

Micah Millspaw writes:
>        I've heard some rumors about the prize situation in the AHA national
>homebrew competition. First, in the winter issue of zymurgy it was said
>that the prizes for 92 would be announced in the spring issue, they where
>not. And now I have heard that there will be no big prizes this year.
>At $7.50 (for members) and $9.50 (for non-members) entry fee,the investment
>in entering is hardly offset. Unless the AHA makes some changes, this years
>2300 or so entries  may be as big as it gets. Lower entry fees and lower
>shipping cost will make the local competitions look a lot better.

The entry fees never have, nor do I think ever will, cover the cost of
BIG prizes.  I assume that you are talking about trips to Norway, etc.
These BIG prizes are provided by sponsors.  I am not associated with the
AHA other than being a member (I'm not an officer or anything -- I'm not
even a Zymurgy author yet), but I'll bet the AHA (as well as its membership)
would be very grateful if you could convince a few importers or breweries
to sponsor some prizes.

I believe that annually, the AHA prints a financials report.  I've seen one
and I assure you that no one at the AHA is getting rich.

Maybe someone who knows for sure, can comment on where the $7.50/$9.50
goes.

Al.

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Date: Thu, 14 May 92 10:52:35 EDT
From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu>
Subject: AHA competitions from Micah Millspaw

Well, I don't enter for the prizes.  I enter for the feedback (of
course, I'm not expecting to win any prizes at this stage in my
brewing development) and recognition of my peers.  I say, if you're
only in it for the money, good riddance!

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Date: Thu, 14 May 92 12:19:45 -0300
From: pgsjay at atlas.cs.upei.ca (Scott Jay)
Subject: Fine sediment


               I want to say thanks to all those who answered my query re.
          beer styles. It helped alot for all of us novice brewers in my
          brewgroup, FAB. Now I have another question!
               Last evening I tried some of my latest brew - a lager,
          probably actually a steam or common beer (thanks) - and noticed a
          deposit of fine sediment up the sides of the bottle, almost to
          the neck. When poured, this fine material mixed with the beer
          making it cloudy. I did not notice an off flavour - actually it
          was quite good :-) - but the beer did not look pleasing. Is this
          normal (i.e. does it happen often)? How could I have prevented
          it? I did rack into a secondary fermenter and racked again just
          before bottling.


          ///////      ////      ///////
         //          //  //     //    //          Scott Jay
        ///////    ////////    ///////      pgsjay at atlas.cs.upei.ca
       //        //      //   //   //
      //       //        //  //    //        Forestry Association
     //      //          // ///////               of Brewers

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Date: Thu, 14 May 92 13:28:01 EDT
From: fingerle at NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL (J. Fingerle)
Subject: r.c.b only?  Say it ain't so...


sterling at gandalf.umcs.maine.edu (Sterling Udell)
recently wrote...

>I would strongly vote against the HBD being replaced with r.c.b, for a
>number of reasons....

For the sake of bandwidth savings, I won't relist them, but let me
say that I AGREE with all three.

He then concluded by saying...

>Well, I guess I can climb down off my soapbox now, and slake my thirst
>with a cool ale.  Ahhh, that's better.  Other opinions?
>String

uh, yeah, can I have a swig, I'm done with the soapbox.


/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
name:  Jimmy                               Nothing kills a good arguement
email: fingerle at NADC.NADC.NAVY.MIL       like someone looking up the facts.
 -or-   fingerle at NADC.NAVY.MIL                       -Bill Lyon 
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

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Date: Thu, 14 May 1992 12:59 CDT
From: Malt-Fermenter Gelly <GELLY at VAXA.CIS.UWOSH.EDU>
Subject: Later, brew-dudes

Hey brewers,

Thank you all for the fun and info on this list. I am graduating on the
16th and that is also when all of my accounts die. I am not sure when I
will have access to internet again, so for now.........

Relax, don't worry, and have a HOMEBREW !!!! ( I know I will be having
plenty this weekend )

See you in Milwaukee (One of the "scarlet H" crowd),

Mitch Gelly	gelly at vaxa.cis.uwosh.edu
		gellym at ernie.cis.uwosh.edu  , only valid till the 16th

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
 "By this time, my lungs were aching for air.." Crow T. Robot, MST3K
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Thu, 14 May 92 13:07:48 CDT
From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: pre-boiling


>On to mashing...is there any advantage to using pre-boiled water in the
>mash?  What about the sparge water?  How about the water I use to take a
>shower the night before?  

You should pre-boil the water you use in your mash, in order to
driver off the chlorine.  If you don't, the chlorine will create
a buffer, and the grains will not lower the ph appropriately. 
>From my experience, if I did not boil off the chlorine, I could
not get the mash ph below 5.8 or 5.9, no matter how much gypsum I
added, but if I pre-boiled the water, I could reach the recommended
mash ph of 5.3 quite easily.

Now days I preboil the mash water and add a tsp of gypsum and leave
it at that, especially when making dark beers; It's hard to get an
accurate reading when the dark malts in the wort stain the ph paper.

bb


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Date: Thu, 14 May 92 10:41:09 MDT
From: haney at soul.ampex.com (Kenneth Haney)
Subject: Boiling pots



Hi,

   I was wondering if someone could tell me ..... When brewing all grain
beer, why you need to boil the whole batch at once in one pot? Why can't
you do it like with extracts and boil 2-3 gallons and add them to preboiled
cooled water in the fermenter?

Thanks
Ken
haney at ampex.com

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Date:     Thu, 14 May 92 14:40:24 EDT
From: Jeanne Sova ASQNC-TAB-IS 5320 <jsova at APG-9.APG.ARMY.MIL>
Subject:  Beer Hunter

Hey guys,

I seem to remember someone saying they had a copy of the
Beer Hunter.  Is there a way to get this original without
waiting for it to come back on t.v. and taping it?  Where
would I order it from?  Thanks for any info.

Jeanne

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Date: 14 May 1992  15:24 EDT
From: dab at dasher.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard)
Subject: propane cookers for sale


Hey now-  I just got a copy of the Bass Pro Shop's Summer Camping
Sale Catalog (say that three times fast).  Inside they have a couple 
of propane fish/beer cookers for sale.  Here's the info:


		Fish cooker-	comes with 10qt steel pot and aluminum
				basket.  170K btu's, comes with 
				hose/regulator.  $54.95

		All-purpose
		country cooker-  compact size (no dimensions given)
				 160K btu's, comes with hose/regulator
				 $59.95

		stainless steel-  14" cooking surface, cast iron burner
		fish cooker       160K btu's.  comes with 3gal ss pot
				  and basket, low and high legs, hose
				  and regulator  $119.97

		2-burner cooker-  14"x28" cooking surface, 160K btu's
				  comes with hose/regulator  $79.95

		3-burner cooker-  14"x42", 136K btu's  $119.95


There you have it.  Bass can be reached at 1-800-227-7776.  

iko-
dab


=========================================================================
dave ballard			"Life may not be the party we hoped for,
dab at dasher.cc.bellcore.com       but while we're here we should dance."
=========================================================================


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Date: Thu, 14 May 1992 16:08 EDT
From: S94WELKER at usuhs
Subject: Brewing at high altitude

Just another data point:  At a Belgian beer tasting I attended at the 
Brickskeller in DC a few weeks back, the owner of the New Belgium Brewery in
Boulder, CO, mentioned the first time he tried to send some of his wonderful
trappist ale (previously found mostly at elevations above 6,000 feet), the
stuff was pretty flat.  So if you're used to acieving a certain degree of 
carbonation with X amount of priming sugar, consider increasing it if the
beer will be consumed closer to sea level.  That way, you'll have a nice
foamy head on your homebrew (which you're drinking to help you not worry about
the toothpaste tube that exploded in your underwear) when you visit friends
in San Francisco.
- --Scott Welker

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Date: Fri, 15 May 92 0:01:41 CDT
From: hopduvel!john at linac.fnal.gov (John Isenhour)
Subject: Autoclaveable Air Lock

I finally came to the conclusion that I want to try to innoculate a
30 gallon batch of wort by starting the yeast like this...

petri dish -> quart mason jar -> gallon jug 

To this end I have aquired a real nice (brand -> 'All American') 
mondo size pressure cooker.  It will hold a gallon glass jug (the 
kind apple juice comes in) with an air lock, upright.  I am looking 
for a autoclavable air lock of the type which can do reverse flow 
(for when it cools).  Anyone know where I can get such a beast, or 
have an idea for how to make one?

tnx!

- -- 
John, The Hop Devil                       
renaissance scientist and AHA/HWBTA certified Beer Judge 
isenhour at lambic.fnal.gov
hopduvel!john at fnal.gov
isenhour at vax001.kenyon.edu

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #882, 05/15/92