FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Re: Homebrew Digest #890 (May 28, 1992) (Lars Nilsson)
  So long...for now (GARY MASON - I/V/V PCU - 603-884[DTN264]1503  28-May-1992 0814)
  Several Yeast Questions ("CMD 2NDLT ALBERT W. TAYLOR ")
  Hop Identification (716)275-6933, FAX:275-8527,HOME:473-8652" <BOEGE%UORHEP.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
  Re: The Starter from Hell (smc)
  dehumidifier water for brewing (Greg Neill)
  Bending Tubing (Kinney Baughman)
  bottle caps (WAYNE HINES)
  Duesseldorfer Beer (GASPAR)
  Chocolate in beer ("Shannon 'Hydrocortisone' Posniewski" )
  yeast and copper (Bob Devine  28-May-1992 0939)
  Brewferm Kreik (Brian Bliss)
  Old Grain, Any Good? (ian)
  A use for spent grains (Chuck Coronella)
  Kzoo Brew ("Chris Dukes" )
  Re: Kriek (korz)
  The 3 Faces of Whitbread (Bob Devine  28-May-1992 1019)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #890 (May 28, 1992) (Jacob Galley)
  Mint Beers? (Nick Zentena)
  Additional mill info from Micah Millspaw (Bob Jones)
  nothing (florianb)
  Re: Pumpernickel Porter Recipe (Larry Barello)
  Re:  Whitbred Ale (whg)
  Plastic siphon tubes and hot wort (David Pike)
  Re: State with most breweries (Richard Akerboom)
  Wort Chiller Lengths (Michael L. Hall)
  Volume to weight conversions (Brian Davis)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 May 92 10:53:32 MET DST
From: etxsral at hal.ericsson.se (Lars Nilsson)
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #890 (May 28, 1992)

> Date: Wed, 27 May 92 14:33:47 -0400
> From: bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Dr. Robert Bradley)
> 
> 
> The only brewery I visited was Breckenridge, a brewpub which also
> bottles and sells locally (in very dark 22 oz. bottles).  My favourites
[stuff deleted]
> 
> There is a notable peculiarity in their brewing process.  Their kettle
> has a 500 gal. capacity, but their fermenters hold 1000 gal.  So, they
> brew up 500 gal., aerate, cool and pitch the yeast, then brew another
> batch the next day and ADD NEW WORT TO AN ALREADY WORKING BATCH!!!!!!
> The person I talked to (assistant brewmaster, I think) said that they
> aerate the second batch to a lesser extent and, because of an earlier
> start on Day 2, it's somewhat less than 24 hours between additions.
> 
> Pretty weird, huh?  At least, that's what it seemed to me.  Still, the
[deleted]> 
> Rob
> (bradley at adx.adelphi.edu)
> 
I don't think it's unusual to do it this way.

The famous smoke-beer brewery Schlenkerla in Bamberg,Germany does it !

Each batch is 5000 litre,they make two batches each week and each
fermenting vessel contains 10000 litre.
According to my info ( The owner & brewmaster ) it is at least one
day between the batches ,even 2-3 days.

It seems that it's approved under the 'Reinheitsgebot' to...

- -- 
Lars Nilsson                                |
Senior Specialist - Data Communication      |
Ericsson Telecom AB , Stockholm - Sweden    |
Phone: +46 8 719 7308 , Fax: +46 8 645 6076 |
E-mail: etxsral at hal.ericsson.se             |

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 08:16:02 EDT
From: GARY MASON - I/V/V PCU - 603-884[DTN264]1503 28-May-1992 0814 <mason at habs11.ENET.dec.com>
Subject: So long...for now

I have learned an immense amount from this vehicle, and will miss it. I am 
leaving Digital (and my access) tomorrow. I hope to have a connection very 
soon, but in the meantime, I will miss my "HBD fix".

Thanks to all the knowledgeable contributors who are helping to build this 
avocation for us. You have been invaluable to me, for one.

Cheers...Gary

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Date: 28 May 92 07:55:00 EST
From: "CMD 2NDLT ALBERT W. TAYLOR " <S94TAYLOR at usuhsb.ucc.usuhs.nnmc.navy.mil>
Subject: Several Yeast Questions

Up until now, I have been brewing with Red Star Ale Yeast (no rotten tomatoes,
please!), with relatively good success.  Now I want to move on to good yeast,
and maintaining pure cultures of that yeast.  My questions are:
	1)  Is there a significantly better dry finishing (high or low
	    attenuating, I can never remember the nomenclature) ale yeast
	    than Chico Ale (Wyeast 1056).  I have heard good things about it.
	2)  I plan to prepare about a year's worth of single use stock tube
	    slants, so I don't have to worry about too much mutation.  How
	    stable is Chico Ale genetically.  I have heard that some other
	    strains are quite unstable.
	3)  (This one is unrelated to my own yeast concerns)  If the yeast
	    used for trappist ale is a mixture of several species and/or 
	    strains, how would one go about making a trappist from pure
	    culture?  Stated differently, what sort of pitching ratios of
	    the different strains should be used.

	Comments about my past use of Red Star should be made to me personally,
but I think help with my other CURRENT problems should be posted to the digest.

Thanks for your help!
Al "Beer Nuts" Taylor
Uniformed Services University
School of Medicine
Bethesda, MD
s94taylor at usuhsb.ucc.usuhs.nnmc.navy.mil
s94taylor at usuhsb.bitnet


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Date: Thu, 28 May 1992 08:59 EST
From: "STEVEN J. BOEGE OFFICE:(716)275-6933, FAX:275-8527,HOME:473-8652" <BOEGE%UORHEP.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject: Hop Identification

Greetings,
        Would someone please tell me which hop varieties are used in Sierra
Nevada India Pale Ale and in Dinkel Acker Dark.
Thanks,
Steven J. Boege

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 09:17 EDT
From: smc at hotsc.att.com
Subject: Re: The Starter from Hell

bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Dr. Robert Bradley) writes:
> 
> There is a notable peculiarity in their brewing process.  Their kettle
> has a 500 gal. capacity, but their fermenters hold 1000 gal.  So, they
> brew up 500 gal., aerate, cool and pitch the yeast, then brew another
> batch the next day and ADD NEW WORT TO AN ALREADY WORKING BATCH!!!!!!

Wow!  A 500 gallon starter.  (Really - might this help cut down on
their yeast costs?)

> How far do you folks think this process could be carried on: to a third
> addition 48 hours later?  A fourth after 72 hours?  etc?

I would guess that you could continue until you ran out of space or
patience.  Of course, you would want to stop the cycle eventually so
you could complete your brew!  All that work is bound to make you
thirsty.

Steve Casagrande
smc at hotsc.att.com

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 13:22:24 GMT
From: Greg Neill <ynecgan at cid.aes.doe.CA>
Subject: dehumidifier water for brewing
Full-Name: Greg Neill

John Freeman writes:
>   My cellar gets damp and musty in the summer, so I have a constant supply
> of water produced from the de-humidifier.  Would this be good water to
> brew with?  Seems like it should be pure unadulterated water....
>

Watch out!!!  Lots of nasties will be growing in this water!!!
De-humidifiers work by passing large quantities of the room's air over a
cooling coil, where condensation of excess moisture takes place.  Any wee
beasties suspended in the air can be trapped in the water droplets on the
coil and will drip into the collector along with them.  You say yourself
that the cellar gets "musty"; you're smelling moulds and mildews, or at
least their spores suspended in the air.

Sounds like an efficient way to infect your beer with everything there is
to infect it with in your house!
- -- 
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  Greg Neill,                      |  "A fanatic is one who cannot change
  HNSX Supercomputers   Inc.       |   his mind, nor the subject" 
  ynecgan at cid.aes.doe.ca           |     -- Sir Winston Churchill
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------




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Date: Thu, 28 May 1992 09:28 EDT
From: Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU>
Subject: Bending Tubing

Greetings All:

I feel like a stranger in these parts it's been so long since I've posted.
School's over and brew season is slowing down so I hope to get back to
posting with some degree of regularity.

Hugh Bynum mentioned tubing benders as a way to bend copper.  They do the
trick.  But you can also been copper fairly easily by bending it around
something that's already round, like a tree limb!  The key is to hold the
tubing firmly to the surface as you bend.  I use a nail that's bent over 
in a right angle so that the tail of the "L" is a little more than 3/8" 
above the surface of the limb.

                           ____          ___
                          |              7/16"                         
                        __|______        ___  
                      /           \   
                    /    limb       \


Oh, the wonders of ascii graphics!!

Cheers!

Kinney Baughman                    |  Beer is my business and
baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu     |  I'm late for work!

Speaking of strangers, whatever happened to that Darryl Richman/Poorman
feller??

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Date:         Thu, 28 May 92 09:22:48 EST
From: WAYNE HINES <IWLH%SNYCENVM.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject:      bottle caps

     Brewers;
        My brother was kind enough to give me a case of Lindeman's bottles,
all of which were empty I'm sorry to say. The problem is the standard caps
that I have are to small to fit the bottles. Does anyone know where I can get
the larger size caps or do I have to return the bottles for the deposit?

                                        Thanks in advance;

                                                    Wayno

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 09:53:07 CDT
From: GASPAR at WUCHEM.wustl.edu
Subject: Duesseldorfer Beer

Have just learned that my favorite commercial beer, Duesseldorfer, from
Indianapolis, is no longer distributed in St. Louis.  Would appreciate off-list
message from anyone who knows whether the brewery is healthy, and its address,
so I can write them asking for their outlet nearest to St. Louis.  Thank you!
                                                    Peter Gaspar
                                       Bitnet:      Gaspar at wuchem
                                       Internet:    Gaspar at Wuchem.wustl.edu

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Date:     28 May 92 09:47:06 EDT
From: "Shannon 'Hydrocortisone' Posniewski" <imagesys!SHANNON at uu.psi.com>
Subject:  Chocolate in beer


Chocolate and Brown Ale being important staples in my life, I decided
to mix the two in a brew.  It came out OK:  it had a subtle chocolate
smell, but no real chocolate taste.

We used 8oz of unsweetened baker's chocolate in a slightly modified 5
gallon batch of Papazian's Elbro Nerkte Brown Ale.  We added it to
the boil at finishing time (with the finishing hops) along with
1/3c of dark brown sugar.

My only comment is that the "real" chocolate has fats in it which
(during fermentation) coagulate and make what look like enormous corn
flakes on the top of the wort.  I simply siphoned around them when
racking.

Another note:  it is habit for me to taste anything which come in
contact with the brew (that way you know which ingredients create
what tastes in the beer).  Well, I tasted one of these flakes (which
smelled like chocolate).  DON'T BOTHER!  They tasted awful!  Like fat
with a lot of hops.  VERY bitter.  VERY icky.

Shannon




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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 08:45:48 PDT
From: Bob Devine 28-May-1992 0939 <devine at cookie.enet.dec.com>
Subject: yeast and copper

Noel Damon asks:
> [...] the last batch was made in a new mash/lauter tun in which I used
> a 1" circular copper slotted tube as the filter element.  This was its first
> use, and although I cleaned the copper well, when the mash was done, the
> tube was a much brighter uniform color than when I started.  Is it possible
> that copper salts were generated which did a number on some of the yeasties,
> or am I left to conclude a yeast problem?

Hi Noel, the acidic nature of a mash will remove the oxydized layer
from the copper (kitchen hint: use ketchup to "clean" copper pans because
its acid will brighten them).  The amount of copper ions removed should
be consumed by the yeast without a problem[*].   Many folks use the
slotted copper pipe system for lautering, so I suspect a yeast problem
(assuming that all cleaning used beer-safe chemicals).

Bob Devine
[*] While some copper is okay, too much can be damaging.  Big commercial
breweries do use copper boil kettles but don't use copper pipes or
copper lager & holding tanks not only because of cost concerns but because
the first runnings through copper do have a much higher concentration so
that a more consistent "product" is obtained with stainless steel.

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 10:45:56 CDT
From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: Brewferm Kreik


>Has anyone tried the Brewferm Kriek kit (from Belgium)? How close is it to
>the wonderful Kriek Lambic I tried? It isn't cheap (Cdn$20.59) esp. as it 
>makes only 12L (instead of the normal 19L).  I plan on starting it this
>weekend to generate those "gallons" my wife wants for the hot weather.

I made up a batch this spring.  I used 2 of the kits, 1 lbs dry
light malt extract, 1 oz hallertau, brought the wort volume up 
to 5 gallons for the boil, cooled with a wort chiller, aereated
and pitched whitbread ale yeast.

The yeast packet that came with the kit says "product of england",
so I figured that it was regular brewing yeast, and not really
appropriate to make a lambic (tell me if I'm wrong), but of couse,
whitbread ale isn't either.  So what I got is a cherry beer, but
not lambic.  Nevermind - It was delicious (and it's all gone).
Give it at least 2 months in the bottle to age and clarify.

A cheaper route, but not as foolproof, is just to add 5 lb or
so of cherries and a little acid blend to a normal pale ale.
For a more authentic flavor, I've been able to culture the dregs
from a bottle of Timmerman's peche (no luck with Lindemann's) but
haven't yet had the guts to risk an entire batch with uncertain yeast.

I got my kits from the Grape & Grain in Springfeild, IL.
(1-800-524-6469) for $17.95 each (ouch!).  Their prices are
usually a little more expensive than other stores (but not
too far out of line, like the local hobby shop), but the owner
is friendly, and fellow homebrewer, and gives good advice.

bb

P.S. has anyone tried out any of the recipes in the back of
Guinard's Lamic book?


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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 10:43:00 CDT
From: buchanan at huntsville.sparta.com (ian)
Subject: Old Grain, Any Good?


	I have some grain that has been in my garage for two years now.  I 
live in Alabama and summers here are a cool 95 degrees with 80 - 90 % 
humidity.  I was just wondering if anyone thought those grains would still
be good for anything but the birds in my back yard?  They dont smell bad 
and are no bugs,  not many anyway.  

	One more totally unrelated question,  Does anybody have a good
Microsoft Excel brewers spreadsheet that I might borrow?  I'd rather brew
than design an excel spread sheet. 

			Thanks in advance, Have one of your homebrews on me.

					Ian Buchanan


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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 09:48 MTS
From: Chuck Coronella <CORONELLRJDS at CHE.UTAH.EDU>
Subject: A use for spent grains

I've discovered a rather innovative use for my spent grains.  (Then again,
everytime I think I've discovered something new, I find out that someone
else in HBD- land has already tried it.)  To start your day off right, try
sprinkling a spoonful of dried grains over a bowl of cereal.  This adds
texture, flavor, nutrition, and general peace of mind.  Since I'm an
extract/specialty grain brewer, I don't generate more than about 1 lb per 5
gallon batch.  Over a long period of time, the amount of grains I produce
is pretty close to the amount I eat.  Except for that batch of Rainy Day
Porter, which generated too many grains for me to bother with. 

Trust me, your colon will thank you.
Chuck

P.S.  I don't recommend this to anyone wearing dentures; this stuff is
pretty hard!

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Date:     28 May 92 10:59:48 EDT
From: "Chris Dukes" <imagesys!file_server_1!CRD at uu.psi.com>
Subject:  Kzoo Brew

Howdy!

Does anyone out there live in the Kalamazoo, Michigan area, or have visited
there recently?

I used to live there (grew up there) and am wondering if anyone has recently
stopped by the Kalamazoo Brewery in downtown KZOO.  I used to frequent the
establishment quite often to partake in the fabulous brews.  They had a great
amber ale, porter, and lager (I think) which were usually readily available.
I even managed to get my hands on a case of Cherry Stout one christmas (it was
a limited edition type deal) which was very good.  At the time I wasn't 
homebrewing myself, but now that I'm over my head in homebrew I'd like to try
to reproduce that porter.  I can't get any in Albany, NY.

If anyone lives there, visted there, or knows the brew of which I'm speaking
please let me know.  I don't know if they hand out recipes, but I'd like to
get an idea of some possible ingredients so I can come close to it.  If you
know of it, or live there and can ask around, I'd appreciate any response.

Thanks -

 _______________________________
| -Chris Dukes  crd at imagesys.com|
|    Tel:518-283-8783 Ext. 550  |
|    Fax:518-283-8790           |
|_______________________________|

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 11:27 CDT
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: Re: Kriek

Bill asks about the Brewferm Kriek kit and making Kriek from scratch.

I've tried the Brewferm Kriek kit and offered it up for review at
BOSS (Brewers of South Suburbia (Chicago's)), CBS (Chicago Beer
Society) and Headhunters (Sugar Grove -- near Aurora, IL) club meetings
and the concensus is that it is not a Kriek by any stretch of the
imagination.  I used two cans of the Brewferm Kriek in a 5 gallon batch
and used Wyeast #1028 in stead of the kit yeast.  Barely any cherry flavor.
Not a bad beer, but not nearly enough cherry flavor.  It had a sourness,
but that was probably from the citric acid which is listed on the label.

On to bigger an better things: homebrewed pseudo-Lambics (I offer that
we should respect the natural process of making Lambics and therefore
respect the appellations "Lambic," "Kriek," "Framboise," etc.).  I have
a 15 gallon batch of pseudo-Lambic fermenting in my basement.  You can
get two of the most dominant beasties from G.W.Kent in Ann Arbor Michigan.
You'll have to go through your retailer.  My retailer charged me $8 each
for Brettanomyces Lambicus and Pediococcus Cerevisiae.  The third of the
three dominant beasties is Saccharomyces Cerevisiae (I used Wyeast #1056
- -- Chico Ale) which is your basic Ale yeast.  Pick up J-X Guinard's book,
"Lambic."  It has a lot of good info and the history (much of which is
still alive in Belgium) makes for interesting reading too.  The amounts
of cherries needed to make pseudo-Kriek are staggering.  Granted, the
Sharbeek cherries used by the most-traditional Belgian brewers have a
very high pit-to-pulp ratio, but if my memory serves me correctly, ene
brewer uses 300 lbs of cherries with 30 gallons of Lambic to make their
Kriek.  I plan to use 13.5 lbs of pitted cherries (I would have used
unpitted, but at the time when I bought them, the only unsweetened ones
I could find were pitted and frozen) with 3.5 gallons of my pseudo-Lambic.

You know where you can find me immediately after the Conference:  in Michigan
picking cherries -- I'll have to buy another freezer just for cherries (that
will make six fridges at my house!).

Al.

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 09:36:58 PDT
From: Bob Devine 28-May-1992 1019 <devine at cookie.enet.dec.com>
Subject: The 3 Faces of Whitbread

Jack Schmidling asks:
> Someone just posted an article about Whitbred yeast being a combination of
> several strains.  Is this a fact or another momily?  Does it apply to the dry 
> version?
> I just pure cultured some from a pack of dry and will be pitiching in my next 
> batch.  If it is true, I just wasted a lot of effort.

Yes, there are 3 strains (see the Zymurgy special Yeast issue mentioned
by Noel Damon or a posting to HBD by George Fix).  If you've cultivated
it, you likely only have one of the 3 strains (or even a wild yeast!).
I suggest it is not worth the bother to cultivate Whitbread because you
need to grow all 3 strains and then combine them in the right proportion
(which may not be 1:1:1...).

As an experiment, go ahead with a small batch based on your yeast culture.
If it takes off quickly, you have strain #1.  If it has a long lag time,
it's #2 or #3.

Bob Devine

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 12:09:07 CDT
From: Jacob Galley <gal2 at midway.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #890 (May 28, 1992)

> From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
> 
> Mark J. Easter <easterm at ccmail.orst.edu> brews:
> > PUMPERNICKEL PORTER
    [. . .]
> > 4 oz freshly ground coffee (Costa Rican)
    [. . .]
>  
> 1) try putting the coffee in the mash.  this will help reduce
>    any astringency from the coffee grounds.  an alternative is
>    to brew up a bunch of it separately, and add it to the boil.
>    You do not leave grains of any sort in the boil.

My coffee : beer intake ratio is about 7 : 1, so I think I have the
experience to strongly recommend that NOBODY EVER BOIL BREWED COFFEE.
The flavor of coffee is very delicate, and essentially any temperature
changes other than the conventional brew-N-cool (or ice) will
probably damage it. You don't even want to keep it hot for very long.
If you're going to the expense of using gourmet coffee, you should
probably just brew in like normal, near the end of the boil, and just
pour it in to the wort as it's cooling.

(I don't have any experience with the cold, acid-free (viz. acid-LESS)
method of coffee brewing yet. That might work even better, as it's
supposed to be much smoother, if you're adding coffee flavor to a beer
as harmonious as the Platonic Pumpernickel Porter.)

Good luck and have fun,
Jake.

"What's so interdisciplinary about studying lower levels of thought process?"
				  <-- Jacob Galley / gal2 at midway.uchicago.edu

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Date: 	Thu, 28 May 1992 13:58:28 -0400
From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com>
Subject: Mint Beers?


        Hi,
                I'm thinking of making a batch of mint beer.
                Could anybody suggest amounts? When to add
                to the boil? Comments?

                I'm presently looking at basically a 2row
                mash with a little wheat&crystal malt add
                in. Not much in the way of bitterness. But
                how much mint???
                Thanks
                Nick

I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles!
zen%hophead at canrem.com

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Date: Thu, 28 May 1992 11:26 PDT
From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov>
Subject: Additional mill info from Micah Millspaw


	In yesterdays post about the malt mill I omitted some information.

particle size refers to the grain diametre this averages approx .150 inch

any roll diametre will work as long as the tangent of the angle of nip is
less than the coefficient of friction between the roll surface and the
particle (grain). Also I have no desire to make any additional mills for
sale. Have fun....
                                              Micah Millspaw  5/28/92


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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 13:14:18 PDT
From: florianb at chip.cna.tek.com
Subject: nothing

I'm sorry to do this and will never do it again.

SCOTT WELKER if you are out there, please send me your email address.
Thanks.

As long as I'm here, a question about automating grain mills. I found one
at a flea market recently. Since I already have one, I thought I would
motorize the second one. I have a 1/2 hp motor and speed reducer. Has
anyone out there done this as Papazian describes?

Florian

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 11:34:39 PDT
From: polstra!larryba at uunet.UU.NET (Larry Barello)
Subject: Re: Pumpernickel Porter Recipe

after much included mail, Brian writes:

>2) With the flaked rye adjunct (or any non-barley malt/adjunct),
>   it is desirable to use a higher enzyme lager malt, and a lower
>   temp (122F) protein rest, according to TCHOHB (Miller).
>
>3) Replace the molasses with brown sugar.  Molasses leaves a notorious
>   aftertaste, but this will fade with time (a long time - 6
>   months to a year or more - depending upon the type of molasses)

In #1 I don't agree with the need for a Lager Malt - unless you are
using an English Pale Ale malt.  Any domestic 2-row Malt should be
active enough to convert reasonable amounts of unmalted adjunct.  I
have used GWM Pale Malt (Klages/Harrington mix) with as much as 20%
unmalted adjunct (i.e. 7lb of malt + 2lb of unmalted barley/oats)
and had no problem with conversion.  

With regard to #2, I thought the conventional advice was to use a small
amount of molasses rather than Brown sugar.  The sugar seems to contribute
an undesirable tast to beer (cidery/thin) - and besides, the brown, in
brown sugar is just molasses added to regular sugar.

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 10:15:19 CDT
From: whg at tellabf.tellabs.com
Subject: Re:  Whitbred Ale



The subject of Whitbred ales three strains has been discussed here several ti
times.  If I'm not mistaken, gfix has described the rather impressive in
interactions of these three strains, throughout the fermentation cycle.  My
apologies the Mr. Fix for my foggy memory, but I think that one strain is a
fairly quick starter, one dominates through the middle of the fermentation cycle
and the final strain finishes off the brew as the alcohol level forces the f
the first two strains into dormancy.
Walter Gude    ||   whg at tellabf.tellabs.com


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Date: Fri, 22 May 92 10:07:16 PDT
From: davep at cirrus.com (David Pike)
Subject: Plastic siphon tubes and hot wort


We also siphon our hot wort from upstairs to downstairs via a looong siphon
hose, and yes, those plastic siphon tubes ARE affected(read melted) by hot
wort. There is a store in Seattle called Brewers Warehouse who sells copper
siphon tube(~6 bucks). I dont know thei number, but they advertize in
Zymurgy.

Dave


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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 12:11:51 EST
From: boomer at sylsoft.com (Richard Akerboom)
Subject: Re: State with most breweries

In Regards to your letter <9205280700.AA27459 at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com>:
 
> From: bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Dr. Robert Bradley)
> 
> I was quite impressed with the level of micro/brewpub activity.  
  [in colorado] Is it
> possible that this is the state with the largest # of micro/brewpubs per
> capita?  

As I understand, and I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong :-),
Vermont has the largest number of micros/brewpubs per capita:

Population: circa 550,000
Micros/Brewpubs:
  Catamount
  Vermont Pub & Brewery
  Mountain Brewers (Long trail ale)
  Otter Creek
2 others in brattleboro I believe, but only counting the 4 above,
we get about 1 micro/brewpub per 150,000 residents.

Rich

- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Akerboom       Domain: boomer at sylsoft.com or akerboom at dartmouth.edu
Sylvan Software          uucp: decvax!dartvax!sylsoft!boomer
Mechanic St.            Phone: 802-649-2231
P. O. Box 566             FAX: 802-649-2238
Norwich, VT 05055 USA 

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 22:09:40 MDT
From: mlh at cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall)
Subject: Wort Chiller Lengths


In response to the query about wort chiller lengths, I decided
to work out an answer (my specialty is thermal hydraulics). It
is rather more complicated than one might think. In fact, my
entire response is about 200 lines long! I'm thinking about
submitting it to Zymurgy (does anyone have any experience with
submitting articles that they would like to share?). 

Anyway, since it is so long, and since I may submit it for 
publication, I have decided not to post it right now. I will 
probably post it eventually. If anyone would really like to 
see it now and will promise to me that they won't usurp my
rights to it, I will send it by email.

Dr. Michael L. Hall
hall at lanl.gov

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Date: Thu, 28 May 92 14:38:22 pdt
From: Brian Davis <brian%mbf.uucp at ics.uci.edu>
Subject: Volume to weight conversions

In hbd 889 ZLPAJGN%LUCCPUA.bitnet at UICVM.UIC.EDU asked

	>So can anyone answer the question, how many cups of corn
	>sugar equal (approximately) one pound?  Thanx in advance.

Along the same lines, does anyone have an approximation for how many
teaspoons of hops there are in one ounce?

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #891, 05/29/92