FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Racking tubes (Hugh R Bynum)
  Re: Grain storage ("ROBERT W. HOSTETLER")
  Beechwood chips (STROUD)
  Hops / Insects / Natural Pesticides (lee_menegoni)
  Summary of blow-off responses, etc. (ZLPAJGN)
  re Hop Cuttings (Carl West)
  dehumidifier water for brewing (John Freeman)
  Dehumidifier water (Arthur Delano)
  Auto_Mash (James Dipalma)
  The NEW mill from MIcah Millspaw (Bob Jones)
  Re: Pumpernickel Porter Recipe (Brian Bliss)
  sugar (Robert Schultz)
  fertilzing hops (Tom McCollough)
  Kriek Lambic and weiss beer (Bill Flowers)
  Wort Chiller (fjdobner)
  Nd-Fe-B Alloy Barrels from Sumitomo Mining Corp (really?) (S94WELKER)
  Re: Pumpernickel Porter Recipe (Pat Lasswell)
  a&q ("Dr. John")
  hops cuttings (Jack Schmidling)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 May 92 11:23:10 PST
From: Hugh R Bynum <Hugh_R_Bynum at ccm.hf.intel.com>
Subject: Racking tubes

Several people responded to a query about racking tubes and recommended using 
copper pipe or tubing.  A tip to make the job easier:  buy a tube bender along 
with the tubing when you make the trip to your local hardware or home supply 
store.  This tool is a piece of coil spring, about 6"-7" long, with an inside 
diameter that matches the outside diameter of the tubing you want to bend.  Slip
the spring over the tubing where you're going to bend it, then bend the tubing 
GENTLY inside the spring.  The spring keeps the tubing from kinking (as long as 
you don't try for too small a radius), and can be slipped off over the bend.  
Tube benders are usually sold on the same rack as fittings and all those other 
copper goodies you'll get to know and love as a brewer.  The $2 or so they cost 
is well worth the investment.

Hugh Bynum
Portland, Oregon
hugh at littlei.intel.com

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Date: 27 May 92 07:14:00 EST
From: "ROBERT W. HOSTETLER" <8220RWH at INDINPLS.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: Re: Grain storage

The kegs with the Nd-Fe-B markings held a a metal alloy powder used to make
magnets. Nd is Neodynium, Fe is Iron, and B is boron. None of them are 
particularly toxic, in the sense of lead or arsenic. Wash then well and use 
use them as you intended. If you're extremely paranoid, coat the inside with 
polyurethane from the local paint store, but let that stuff cure for a good
long time so the grain doesn't pick up a strange taste.

Another topic: I'm about to start my first batch, and I'd appreciate any hints
over and above what's available in TNCJoH or on the Munton and Fison kit I'm 
using. I think I've got relax and don't worry down, but I don't have the
homebrew. Guess that I'll have to settle for a Molson's.

Bob Hostetler					8220rwh at indy.navy.mil


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Date: Wed, 27 May 1992 10:03 EST
From: STROUD <STROUD%GAIA at leia.polaroid.com>
Subject: Beechwood chips

About 3 years our club performed an experiment with aging a beer on beechwood.  
Here is the expt. and results:

About the beer:  

This was a partial mash/partial extract golden ale, 5 gallons total.  Starting 
gravity was 1.050, finishing gravity was 1.010.  Wyeast #1084 ale yeast was 
used and total fermentation time was about 5 weeks, including aging in the 
secondary (3 weeks).  The beer was split at the secondary stage: half was aged 
on 1 oz of sterilized beechwood biscuits (aka splines, obtainable from many 
woodworking stores.  They were sterilized by boiling), while the other half 
underwent standard secondary fermentation. Neither batch was fined.

The two batches were bottled and allowed to condition, then served to the club 
in a blind tasting.  People made comments before the beers' identities were 
revealed.

Results:  About 80% of the tasters preferred (and could pick out) the beechwood
aged beer.  Most people thought that it was the fuller and rounder of the two, 
although there was some disagreement.  Unlike oak, the beechwood aging didn't 
appear to add much 'woodiness' to the beer. The clarity of the two batches was 
excellent in both cases.

PS - I have since routinely used beechwood in many of my pale ales and find 
that it often adds an interesting nuance to their flavor profiles.  I have seen 
no indication that it makes much difference in the final clarity of the beer.  
I have never used beechwood in a lager, but this discussion has made me wonder 
what it would do.  Perhaps in my next batch..........

Steve Stroud

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 08:58:23 EDT
From: lee_menegoni at ptltd.com
Subject: Hops / Insects / Natural Pesticides

I use a citrus based soap product marketed under the "SAFER" brand name to 
keep aphids off my rose bushes with great success.  This product has no 
chemical pesticides  and is readily soluble in water.  I paid $8 for 16 ozs of
concentrate which is mixed 1 tablespoon per quart.  My local gardening store 
has other "natural" pesticides for various insect infestations.  

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Date:    Wed, 27 May 92 10:31 CDT
From: ZLPAJGN%LUCCPUA.bitnet at UICVM.UIC.EDU
Subject: Summary of blow-off responses, etc.

Dear Brewers,

First, thanks to all who responded to my questions regarding my stained
siphon/blow-off hose.  I guess there's little to summarise, as I
received almost unanimous responses, i.e.: get another hose for my
siphoning, but keep this one for future use with blow-offs.  I did get
some varience with suggestions for future blow-off methods, especially
when I plan to use whole leaf hops in the boil (or even dry hopping).
Most of those who responded suggested that I invest in another, wider
I/O diameter hose which would fit snugly into the mouth of the carboy
thus decreasing the possibilities of clogging.  Luckily, there's an Ace
Hardware store just down the block from my appartment and I can get both
hoses - replacement siphoning hose and the wider blow-off - with
relative ease.  Thanx again to all, and I'll keep you posted!

On a different note, can anyone tell me an accurate (or approximate)
way to measure one pound of corn sugar without a scale?  My latest
batch - which prompted all the questions about blow-off hoses - called
for 1 lb. of corn sugar, and I had to guess using a 1 cup measure
how much sugar that was (and judging from the low OSG, I guessed
lightly).  So can anyone answer the question, how many cups of corn
sugar equal (approximately) one pound?  Thanx in advance.

John

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 10:59:00 EDT
From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West)
Subject: re Hop Cuttings

I've had fair luck rooting cuttings this way:
 

take a cutting with at least 4 pairs of leaves

pluck off the bottom pair of leaves

dip the bottom inch or so in rooting hormone

stick in very wet potting soil (read: thick mud) in a pot with no drainage

put the whole mess in a plastic bag (transparency is not vital)

seal with a twist tie

leave it alone for a week or more in a sunny window


I've been getting better than 50% success.

Carl

WISL,BM.


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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 11:06:40 CDT
From: jlf at palm.cray.com (John Freeman)
Subject: dehumidifier water for brewing

>   My cellar gets damp and musty in the summer, so I have a constant supply
> of water produced from the de-humidifier.  Would this be good water to
> brew with?  Seems like it should be pure unadulterated water....
> 

I tried it once, believe it or not, 23 years ago.  This was my first
batch of beer, and aside from all the other things we did wrong,
we used dehumidifier water.  It had a metallic flavor.  I believe the
correct word here is "duh".  Maybe dehumidifier technology has
advanced in the last 23 years, so I would recommend taste the water
before you use it.  If the ingredients don't taste good, neither
will the final product.

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 12:22:54 EDT
From: Arthur Delano <ajd at itl.itd.umich.edu>
Subject: Dehumidifier water


Russ Gelinas asks if dehumidifier water is good to use in homebrew.

Well, last fall I made a bitters with dehumidifier water and it turned out
all right.  The water is pretty soft, similar to distilled water.  Before
collecting the water for brewing, be certain to wash the catch basin out
thoroughly.  I'm currently collecting water for another batch, but have
to start over because my roommate found most of a spider in the catch
basin.  Out go five gallons!

Before using the collected water, I boiled the amount I was going to add
after boiling the wort (I extract brew).  Although none of us smoke, I
thought it was a good idea to sanitize water left sitting in open air.
Then again, I boil the tap water I use for homebrewing too.

AjD

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 13:11:02 EDT
From: dipalma at banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma)
Subject: Auto_Mash


	Hi All,
		I'm interested in a mashing system called AutoMash,
	made by Scientific Brewing Systems of Martinez, Calif.
	Does anyone have any experience/information on this system,
	how well(if at all) does it work, how easy is it to use,
	price, etc.  Please feel free to send email.

				Thanks,
				Jim

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 14:33:47 -0400
From: bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Dr. Robert Bradley)

Greetings fellow brewers,

I recently returned from my first ever visit to Colorado.  Nice place;
kinda like Alberta, only drier :-)

I was quite impressed with the level of micro/brewpub activity.  Is it
possible that this is the state with the largest # of micro/brewpubs per
capita?  Being an ale-man, I was particularly impressed with the variety
of homegrown ales available in the better beer stores.

The only brewery I visited was Breckenridge, a brewpub which also
bottles and sells locally (in very dark 22 oz. bottles).  My favourites
were their oatmeal stout and IPA.  I was also impressed by a bottle
of their wheat beer (60% wheat, 40% barley), but the glass I had at the
pub was ho-hum and lacked the clovey distinctiveness of the (older)
bottled sample.

There is a notable peculiarity in their brewing process.  Their kettle
has a 500 gal. capacity, but their fermenters hold 1000 gal.  So, they
brew up 500 gal., aerate, cool and pitch the yeast, then brew another
batch the next day and ADD NEW WORT TO AN ALREADY WORKING BATCH!!!!!!
The person I talked to (assistant brewmaster, I think) said that they
aerate the second batch to a lesser extent and, because of an earlier
start on Day 2, it's somewhat less than 24 hours between additions.

Pretty weird, huh?  At least, that's what it seemed to me.  Still, the
results speak for themselves; the beer is good.  I was trying to think
if a scenario where a home-brewer might find such a system useful, but
I couldn't come up with anything that wasn't totally contrived.

Does anybody brew this way?  How far do you folks think this process
could be carried on: to a third addition 48 hours later?  A fourth after
72 hours?  etc?

Rob
(bradley at adx.adelphi.edu)

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Date: Wed, 27 May 1992 11:20 PDT
From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov>
Subject: The NEW mill from MIcah Millspaw


	Success at last. Bob and myself have been trying to build a
malt mill for several months, and this weekend I finaly got mine debugged.
This mill provides the BEST crush I have ever seen. It has two 4 inch
diametre rollers that are 4 inches wide. They are both in-running driven
by 4 inch dia. spur gears. The mill is powered by a 1\2 horsepower washing
machine motor with two speeds. The slick part about this mill is the fact
that the gap between the rollers is not adjustable. We found that the
adjusting mechanism was the weak point in everyone elses grain mill. And 
so it was eliminated. It seemed that once the mill was adjusted to provide
a good crush it was then left alone, hopefully to stay put (gap wise)
A formula was found to help determine the proper gap size and the speed
at which to turn the rollers, the main problem that we ran into was
getting enough torque, but a big motor fixed that. At present the gap
is set at .050 inch and the rollers have a fine straight knurl on them.
This setup does a excellent job on both barley and wheat and even dextrin
malt. The thru feed is about four pounds per minute.

                                               


                              radius of roll + 1\2 gap
angle of nip    cos a  =   -------------------------------
                           radius of roll + radius of particle  

an angle of 12-14 is good.

speed - 6-13 surface feet per second is good

                  rpm                   
            sfm = ---- * diametre     sfs=sfm/60
                  3.82 


                  5250 * horsepower
        torque = -------------------
                       rpm                

perhaps this info will be of use to some who are building their own
equipment.     

                                         

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 15:09:14 CDT
From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: Re: Pumpernickel Porter Recipe


Mark J. Easter <easterm at ccmail.orst.edu> brews:
>                 PUMPERNICKEL PORTER
> Ingredients for 5 gallons:
> 
> 5 lbs 2-row Pale Malt           o.g.  1.043
> 12 oz crystal (40L)             s.g.  1.011
> 8 oz chocolate malt
> 1 lb. flaked Rye
> 4 oz cocoa powder
> 4 oz freshly ground coffee (Costa Rican)
> 1 cup unsulphered blackstrap mollases
> 8 HBU's Willamette Hops
> Wyeast (Steinbart's)
> 
> Temperatures are in degrees F.  Cook flaked rye for 5
> minutes in 1 quart water.  Mash-in the grist at 132 deg with
> 10 cups water.  Adjust pH.  Raise temperature to 150 deg.,
> put into oven set at 150 deg. (my oven will allow this).
> Starch conversion rest for 90 minutes at 150 deg.  Sparge
> with 4 gallons 180 deg. water.  Add Molasses, Boil 90
> minutes, one hop addition at 60 minutes before end of boil.
> After boil, shut off heat, let temperature drop to 195 deg.
> and add cocoa powder and coffee.  Let sit for 10 minutes,
> then cool the wort (I put the covered pot into a tub of cold
> water.  It cools off within 45 minutes to about 80 deg.)
> Racked into a carboy, primed with a starter batch of yeast.
> Fermented in the primary 10 days, secondary for 1 week.
> Bottled with 2/3 cup dextrose.  It's been aging for 5 weeks.
> 
> Has anybody out there brewed a similar batch or used these
> ingredients in combination?  Any ideas on how to use cocoa
> and coffee?  A friend of mine suggested "dry-hopping" the
> 
 
1) try putting the coffee in the mash.  this will help reduce
   any astringency from the coffee grounds.  an alternative is
   to brew up a bunch of it separately, and add it to the boil.
   You do not leave grains of any sort in the boil.

2) With the flaked rye adjunct (or any non-barley malt/adjunct),
   it is desirable to use a higher enzyme lager malt, and a lower
   temp (122F) protein rest, according to TCHOHB (Miller).
   10 cups H2O for > 6lbs grains seems like it would make for
   an awfully stiff mash, too.

3) Replace the molasses with brown sugar.  Molasses leaves a notorious
   aftertaste, but this will fade with time (a long time - 6
   months to a year or more - depending upon the type of molasses)
   After it develops a better head, try putting a bottle in the
   fridge for a month.  A taste will give you a better idea what
   it will mature into.

4) You can always try rye malt instead of flaked rye.  I brewed up
   a batch of "Bock 'n Rye" (I'm trademarking the name :-) a
   few months ago.  After 2 months in the bottle, it had a definite
   funky whiskey-like flavor, fading into a bitter aftertaste.
   After 3 months (at 50-60F), the bitter aftertaste had diminished
   substantially.

5) use real chocolate instead of powdered???  I don't know -
   I've never put chocolate in my beer...

6) Put a case in your basement and don't bring it out until you're
   old and gray and don't have anything better to do (by which time,
   brewing will probably be illegal, along with everything else
   worthwhile, and you'll have the added satisfaction of making a
   political statement whilst you inbibe).

bb


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Date: Wed, 27 May 1992 14:25 CST
From: Robert Schultz <SCHULTZ at admin1.usask.ca>
Subject: sugar

	Can anyone tell me the difference between corn sugar (dextrose) and
icing sugar? One of the bulk food stores has large quanities of icing sugar
at unbelievable prices, they don't carry dextrose (yet).

Rob Schultz
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"I'm going off half-cocked? I'm going off half-cocked? ...
Well, Mother was right - You can't argue with a shotgun."	- Gary Larson
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 14:39:08 -0600
From: lager!wtm at hellgate.utah.edu (Tom McCollough)
Subject: fertilzing hops

After consulting with my local nurseryman I am feeding my new hop starts
a mixture of the following:

	4 lbs. 0-45-0
	5 lbs. 10-10-10

I'm applying this mix in scant amounts on a regular basis.

"Dave" (the nurseryman) tells me that I will have no crop to speak of
this year.  My goals for this season, he says, should be to develop the
rhizomes if I want to have a decent crop next season.  Boosting the
middle number will develop the root system.  Next season we will work
on boosting the last number.  I'm not sure why yet -- I'll find out
next season.

Tom

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 15:52:48 EDT
From: waflowers at quantum.on.ca (Bill Flowers)
Subject: Kriek Lambic and weiss beer

Recently while on a business trip I discovered a restaurant (The Full Moon
on Main St. in Ann Arbor MI) which had an amazing selection of
international beers.  For the first time I was able to try Lindeman's Kriek
and various German Weiss beers (along with others I've only heard about
such as Xingu).

I also found a store (The Beer Depot, one block down and turn the corner
from The Full Moon) which claimed to have over 200 types of beer (they had
all the bottles on display; I believe them) so I was able to buy a few of
the better ones and bring them home.

My wife sampled the Kriek I brought home (as did my mother-in-law, and
brother- and sister-in-law who all loved it) and declared that she could
drink gallons of it this summer.  The amazing thing about this is that the
kindest thing she has ever said about any beer in the past is that it was
barely tolerable if she was extremely thirsty (this includes numerous
European brews).  Personally I am completely hooked on the German Weiss
beers I tried (served with yeast and a twist of lemon): Hacker-Pschorr
Weiss and Ayinger Brau-Weisse (I brought back a bottle of Ayinger Ur-Weisse
which I haven't tried yet).

My questions:

Has anyone tried the Brewferm Kriek kit (from Belgium)? How close is it to
the wonderful Kriek Lambic I tried? It isn't cheap (Cdn$20.59) esp. as it 
makes only 12L (instead of the normal 19L).  I plan on starting it this
weekend to generate those "gallons" my wife wants for the hot weather.

It calls for some sugar (500g I think), but I was thinking of substituting
alfalfa honey.  I think it will give me the light body called for (which
DME wouldn't) without the off flavours of corn sugar. Comments?

Similarly, what is the Brewferm Weiss kit like? Should I substitute wyeast
#3056 (Bavarian wheat) for the supplied dry yeast? (I know, always throw
away the dry yeast that comes with a kit and substitute ...).

Which reminds me, what about the yeast in the Kriek kit?

Finally, has anyone had any success duplicating Kriek or a wonder weiss
like I tried from recipe? (Extract recipes if possible, I don't mash.) I
recall the recipe in the appendix (Sour mash and lambics) in TNCJoHB.  The
difficulty is obtaining the proper yeast(s) (can it/they be obtained
commercially at all?).  If I know which Wyeast to order my brew store will
special order it for me.  They normally only carry 5 strains.

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 18:19:25 -0500
From: Brewing Chemist Walter <walterbj at ernie.cis.uwosh.edu>

Howdy Fellow Brewers,

	I tried posting this last week, but it hasn't made a digest yet.
Here it goes again!

Brian

	With all the talk of the local brew fests, I thought I would put
in Wisconsin's $0.02 worth.  Here's the scoop:

What  : Wisconsin Microbrewers Beer Fest 1992
        Hosted By Rowland's Calumet Brewing Co. Inc.

Where : Brant Inn, Chilton Wisconsin

When  : Sunday May 31st, 1992 from 1:00 - 6:00 pm

Who   : Nerly every Wisconsin microbrewery will be represented!

	Appleton Brewing Company (Adler Brau), Appleton WI
	Brewmasters Pub, Kenosha WI
        Capitol Brewery (Garten Brau), Middleton WI
	Cherryland Brewing, Sturgeon Bay WI
	Fox Classic Brewery, Appleton WI
        Lakefront Brewery, Milwaukee WI
        Rowland's Calumet Brewing, Chilton WI
        Sprecher Brewery, Milwaukee WI
        Water Street Brewpub, Milwaukee WI
        
Cost  : $16.00 in advance, $18.00 at the door
        Tickets available from Rowlands Roll-Inn in Chilton,
        Galaxy Science and Hobby in Oshkosh (ask for Jeff),
        and ??????.
        
        B.Y.O. Lawn Chairs
	Music By Jerry Schneider Band

For further info either call Rowland's at (414) 849 2534
Hope to see you there.

Brian J Walter

P.S. I am in no way connected with the beer fest, with the exception that
     I already have my tickets and plan on being there and drinking good
     beer.  I am just helping out a few local brewmasters without their
     knowledge.

Good Day

Brian J Walter
walterbj at ernie.cis.uwosh.edu

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 18:24 CDT
From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com
Subject: Wort Chiller


After all the great responses I got on ways of tranporting wort to my basement
after brewing, I went out and bought some 1/2" copper tubing and vinyl hoses
to siphon and simultaneously cool the wort. I even have approval from my
wife to cut a nice round hole in the bottom of our kitchen cabinet, through
the floor in order to feed the hose. I am very excited about solving this
and actually improving the quality of my beer.

My question is this: Does anyone have a nice equation that would relate
the length of 1/2" coil that would be required to cool wort from temperature T1 
(which would really be about 212F) to T2 (depending upon if it is ale or
lager yeast I am using between 40-60 F). I would imagine the specific
gravity would show up in there and since temperature is already an 
independent variable, it could also be used to correct the SG (that is
if the gravity that is used in the equation is expressed at hydrometer
temperature of 60F). I am most sure that the great minds in this crowd
have already come up with something. If so your input would as always
be most welcome.


Frank Dobner

PS; With a baby due any day now, I am likely to suggest that we name 
our baby after a great beer to commemorate this great process improvement
in brewing. Maybe Porter? Or Marzena? NOT! By the way, I really look forward
to reading the HBD everyday. I appreciate the knowledge, interest, tips,
experience, advice and humor of the participants. Thanks for your contributions!

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Date: Wed, 27 May 1992 21:36 EDT
From: S94WELKER at usuhs
Subject: Nd-Fe-B Alloy Barrels from Sumitomo Mining Corp (really?)

I'm halfway to my MD, so I guess that means I'm halfway to knowing what I'm    
talking about, right?  So maybe Frank and everyone else will halfway listen
When I say...when it comes to reusing chemical containers, don't even
think about it.  While I can't jump up and scream "Neodymium will kill you     
cold as stone, and so will the other lanthanides!", I can say, "why take a
stupid chance?"  To save, maybe $40 over buying a couple of Rubbermaid trash 
cans?  Is that worth an exposure to a chemical which is used to dope laser 
rods?
 
Frank, if I can't cinvince you to toss those barrels, at least use them to     
store something you're not going to eat.  Just because they lack the old
skuull and crossbones poison hazard labels doesn't mean they're safe.
Besides, who wants to explain to a beer judge "that lime green color
might be from the boron residue the soap and water couldn't clean out of my
grain storage buckets.   'Tastes like brake fluid,' you say?  Maybe I'll call
it 'Bhopal Pale Ale,' or 'Love Canal Porter!'"
- --
- --Scott Welker

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 18:10:15 PDT
From: Pat Lasswell <patl at microsoft.com>
Subject: Re: Pumpernickel Porter Recipe

I suspect that dry-hopping with coffee would destroy any head the beer
might have, since (good) coffee contains a not insignificant amount of oil.
Further, coffee that has been extracted with cold water has a substantial
difference in flavor over hot-extracted coffee, so you might not get what
you expect (if indeed, one could anticipate the results).  You might try
adding the coffee to the primary after the wort has been cooled, that way
any oils extracted from the coffee would adhere to the yeast and not disturb
the head.  The activity of fermentation would probably flush out some of the
aromatics, so it's anybody's guess as to what it would taste like.  (Anybody
done it?)


Pat Lasswell


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Date:         Wed, 27 May 92 23:36:12 EDT
From: "Dr. John" <JELJ at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu>
Subject:      a&q


Greetings all,

      Russ asks about the advisability of using dehumidifier water to brew
with.  Russ, would you drink this stuff?  After looking in the catch basin on
my dehumidifier I'd have to say that I'd rather use ditch water to brew with.

      Now for a question.  I've got a weizen in the secondary which I intended
as a dunkelweizen, but it isn't as dunkel as I'd like.  I'm considering
steeping a couple ounces of black patent malt with my primings in hopes of
adjusting the color at bottling time.  Has anyone tried anything like this?
Does it seem like a reasonable idea?  Any drawbacks I should consider?

Ooogy wawa,
Dr. John

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Date: Wed, 27 May 92 21:58 CDT
From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: hops cuttings

 
 To: Homebrew Digest
 Fm: Jack Schmidling
 
 >My question to you is what is the proper way to do this whole thing: 
 cutting, rooting, planting...? If anyone has any information by which I can 
 improve, it would be very generous and welcomed. Thanks
 
 Not sure about proper but I bought two small plants this winter and turned 
 them into 8 by Spring.
 
 I simply took about two inches of the growing tips of several branches from 
 each plant.  These I put in water and they grew roots within about two weeks 
 and were then planted in soil.
 
 I also found that if dipped in Rootone, they could be planted directly in 
 potting soil and rooted readily.
 
 There doesn't seem to be any reason to use root risomes as the branches root 
 just as easily.
 
 .............
 
 Whitbred Yeast...
 
 Someone just posted an article about Whitbred yeast being a combination of
 several strains.  Is this a fact or another momily?  Does it apply to the dry 
 version?
 
 I just pure cultured some from a pack of dry and will be pitiching in my next 
 batch.  If it is true, I just wasted a lot of effort.
 
 js
 
 
 
 js

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #890, 05/28/92