HOMEBREW Digest #915 Thu 02 July 1992

Digest #914 Digest #916

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Electrim Bin / sparge water (Josh Grosse)
  Lovibond needed (chris campanelli)
  Cleaning Blow-off tubes (Jim Grady)
  hydrometer, methanol (Russ Gelinas)
  Chas. Anderson's first All-Grain ("Robert Haddad" )
  7 Gallon Carboys (916)351-5514" <JMYERS at T1ACC1.intel.com>
  Leaking cooler (Nick Zentena)
  IPUs (Bob Devine  01-Jul-1992 1102)
  Some thoughts on Hot peppers and beer (Paul Kramer)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 30 Jun 92 22:03:21 EDT From: jdg at grex.ann-arbor.mi.us (Josh Grosse) Subject: Electrim Bin / sparge water Charlie Anderson asks: > ...I mashed for 90mins w/2.25 gals >in my electrim-bin, ... had a hell of a time getting the temp to stay constant >at 150... > ...is it really important to keep it exactly on target? Yes, Charlie, it's VERY important. There are two solutions to your problem. 1) STIR. Every minute or two. 2) USE A GRAIN BAG. This will keep the grain off of your element so it doesn't burn, allows you to sparge right out of your mashing tun, and forces you to use more water, which would also help your temperature stability. > .... Should my sparge water be boiling when I start, TCJOHB says >170, does it matter? At 172 or higher, you may begin extracting tannins which can cause undesirable off flavors. I use 168. JS uses boiling water, though he has reported his grain-bed temperature ends up a lot lower than that. Good luck! - ----------------------------------------------------------------- Josh Grosse jdg at grex.ann-arbor.mi.us Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 92 23:32 CDT From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli) Subject: Lovibond needed Does anyone have a Lovibond rating for either Victory malt or unmalted wheat? Thanks in advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 92 7:51:07 EDT From: Jim Grady <jimg at hpwalq.wal.hp.com> Subject: Cleaning Blow-off tubes Bob Jones asks about cleaning out blow-off tubes: I use 'B-Brite' to clean mine. I get it from my homebrew supplier (generally Beer & Wine Hobby in Woburn, MA & sometimes Modern Brewer in Cambridge, MA). It's a sterilizer and cleanser (in probably the loosest senses of those terms) and works very well. It is kind of expensive so I use bleach when I just need to sterilize but B-Brite works great at cleaning out blow-off tubes, the neck of the carboy after blow-off & getting labels off a new batch of bottles. The label on the bag of B-Brite says to use 1 TBS/Gal but I usually use a little more than half that amount. I have never found it necessary to scrub the gunk out; just soak for a while and rinse. - -- Jim Grady | Trink was klar ist Internet: jimg at wal.hp.com | Lieb was wahr ist Phone: (617) 290-3409 | Merlin - Bier Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1992 9:44:32 -0400 (EDT) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: hydrometer, methanol Hydrometer readings will go up even while the heavier trub material is settling out because the wort is cooling. Cool wort has a higher SG than hot wort. Think of it as a syrup; cold syrup is thick, hot syrup is thin, and in a simple sense, that's what SG is a measure of, liquid thickness. Now, once and for all, can someone definitively answer whether it is possible to produce truly "bad" alcohols (like methanol) in homebrew, in any way? I mean by "normal" fermentation, very hot or very cold fermentation, very long (like 5 years) fermentation, pasteurization, storage at very high temps, exposure to various frequencies of light, distillation, or any other strange thing we might do to our beer. Russ Return to table of contents
Date: 1 Jul 92 10:46:06 EDT From: "Robert Haddad" <RHADDAD at bss1.umd.edu> Subject: Chas. Anderson's first All-Grain I particularly enjoyed Charles Anderson's account of his bold move into all-grain brews, as well as Desmond Mottram's reply. I have been brewing for a couple of years but have yet to make the move into all-grain. Perhaps the time has come... Charles, keep us appraised of the result of the brew. Also, could you describe any further monetary investments (above and beyond the equipment necessary for extract brew) for such items as wort chiller and the like? Thanks a lot Robert Haddad rhaddad at bss1.umd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 92 08:28:37 PDT From: "JOHN MYERS, INTEL FM3-35, (916)351-5514" <JMYERS at T1ACC1.intel.com> Subject: 7 Gallon Carboys In response to Matt Titus' request for information on 7 gallon carboys - They are available at: "THE BREWMEISTER" 303 Riley Street Folsom, CA 95630 The cost is $20.00. I'm not sure if they're shipping yet? This brew supply store just opened within the last month. The number is (916)985-7299 if you want to call first. Rumors have it - Johnny Cash shops there. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 1992 12:58:48 -0400 From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com> Subject: Leaking cooler Hi, I decided to replace the drain on my cooler with a drum tap. Well it leaks. Not alot but more then I willing to accept. I've heard mention of using silcone caulking to seal the hole. Is this stuff safe at mash temps/PH? Is anything better? Thanks Nick ***************************************************************************** I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles! zen%hophead at canrem.com ***************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 92 11:09:48 PDT From: Bob Devine 01-Jul-1992 1102 <devine at cookie.enet.dec.com> Subject: IPUs Paul Sherrill asks: > Now how can I figure the pepper extraction rate in IPUs (International > Peppering Units) ? If you are concerned with the "heat" of the peppers, there is an accepted scale called the Scoville level. It assigns a numeric value to each variety of pepper, going from a value of 1 for a green pepper to tens of thousands or higher for very hot peppers. I remember that the scotch bonnet and haberno are over 100,000! Just like hops, you should be able to mix different strains of peppers to give the desired flavor + heat. That is, use a pepper with more of the vegetative flavor to combine with a high heat pepper. Bob Devine Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 92 17:34:56 EDT From: pdk at pyrnj.nj.pyramid.com (Paul Kramer) Subject: Some thoughts on Hot peppers and beer With regards to Paul Sherrill's article on pepper beer, I submit the following tangential musings: > When I do this again I will go for the 1/4 inch slices in some sort of > ale. In fact the IPA in primary could turn into India Peppered Ale. > Also on the agenda for the future would be attempting a pepper tea at > bottling. The problem with this is the extrapolation of the number of > peppers to use and the pepper extraction rate when made into a tea. > > Now how can I figure the pepper extraction rate in IPUs (International > Peppering Units) ? As a devotee of fine beer & an enthusiastic pepper eater, I am pleased to hear how well Paul Sherrill's pepper beers are coming out. His comment about IPU(International Peppering Units), whether jesting or not, is a reality. The Scoville Heat Unit has been around for years as a measure of the amount of Capsaicin in a pepper. Because the quantity required for taste perception was almost immeasurable, the scale originally relied on human taste testing, but now through the wonders of "High-performance Liquid Chromatography" a much more accurate method is available to assay this chemical. The Scoville scale runs from 0(Bell pepper land) to 15,000,000, which is pure Capsaicin. The peppers themselves have different ranges of heat going up to almost 300,000 Scovilles for the hottest Habaneros. At 1 part per million, the warmth of pepper is perceptible on the palate. At 1 part per 100,000, there should be an obvious burning. Now the extraction would not be 100% on any given pepper, but I would think that a little testing with a couple of varieties of peppers could produce some rule of thumb, given the peppers original Scoville heat rating and its potential effect on ones tongue. Since individual peppers vary in heat(within a range for their type), & different parts of a pepper also vary greatly in their heat potential, special preparation is necessary for controlled testing. The area around the seeds is the source of the Capsaicin, therefore making a pulp of one or better yet several peppers, and then using a portion of that to flavour the beer would have more predictable results than using strips from a single pepper. Another and possibly better method would be to use a packaged, ground red pepper, such as Cayenne or Paprika. These are made in larger quantities, and would be more uniform in heat from sample to sample within a single brand. This ground pepper could be made into a tea. Since Capsacin has been used as an emetic, it is conceivable that it is available in solution from a pharmacist. If this is true, one could have excellent control of the dosage per bottle or keg.(Remember, the burn is not a taste perception, it's teh pain receptors in your mouth which get stimulated. And Capsaicin has no flavour on its own.) Although I have never done any of the above, I have the greatest confidence in the skills of the HBD audience, and offer myself as a taster wherever & whenever convenient. As an aside, I think that when I go home I'll put a measured splash of a hot sauce, which has few adjuncts, into a beer to see what it tastes like. Since the peppering could be accomplished after the brew is cooled off, it may not matter when it goes into the beer. cheers, paul davis kramer Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #915, 07/02/92