HOMEBREW Digest #931 Thu 23 July 1992

Digest #930 Digest #932

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  WINNER, Hops, Yeast, Mashout, Trub (Jack Schmidling)
  Re: mashing oats (Andy Phillips)
  Plating out WYEAST #3056 (KENYON)
  silcone again (Nick Zentena)
  ESP/culturing/malehops (korz)
  yeast/O-rings/Bully Porter (Brian Bliss)
  Beverage Cooler Lauter Tun (Chris McDermott)
  Cream Stouts and Lactose (Chris McDermott)
  Lotto America Digest (Brew Chemist Walter)
  yeast cultivation from bottles, barley wine (John L. Isenhour)
  Root Beer Repair (Thomas D. Feller)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 21 Jul 92 21:48 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: WINNER, Hops, Yeast, Mashout, Trub To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling We seem to have a concensus on the 100th article. Congratulations Mr Adams, you will soon be the owner of your very own MALTMILL. As you article had little to do with brewing and I do not recognize your name, I suspect others share my interest in knowing what you plan to do with it. Are you a brewer? Will this make an all-grainer out of you? Now, to claim your MALTMILL, all you have to do is post a 1000 word essay on why my beer is the World's Greatest. Then I will pop a contract into the mail that will only commit you to ten years of promotional tours, at your expense of course. Upon receiving your signed and notorized copy I will start scrounging up reject parts and probably get one to you in time for Homebrew Expo 2001. Seriously, congratulations and welcome to a very elite club. Most of us had to work a little harder for ours, but that's life. If you send me your shipping address, I will get it out to you. >From: sxs32 at po.CWRU.Edu (Subbakrishna Shankar) >Subject: Hop vine pruning and lagering refrigerator >Congratulations, Jack. You certainly stirred up interest in HBD during the summer doldrums. There seems to be a range of views on this subject. > A few weeks ago I was complaining here that my hop rhizomes weren't growing, so naturally they are now growing all too well. I have assiduously pruned back new shoots..... I sugest you stop pruning your several vines that you have allowed to grow. Just let them grow and prune only the new shoots at the base. > Anyone with a climate similar to Cleveland getting flowers already? I have pea sized flowers one one vine in Chicago. Interestingly, they are only on the vine that I forced to grow horizontally when it reached the top of my six foot fence. The growing tip has dried up and all growth is now in the flowers. Two other vines from the same plant were allowed to grow vertically up strings and they are three times as long and no sign of flowers. It appears that they will yield many time more hops than the one forced to grow horizontally but will flower later in the season. Needless to say, I gave on on the fence idea for the rest of my plants and they are all climbing up string. They are Chinook, BTW. >From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane) >Subject: Please No More Offers! >Please, Jack.....I can't see what good this is doing.... Tell that to Mr Adams! >From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> >Subject: Cider and it's yeast > Well this is slightly misleading Andy. The source of the wild yeasts is not waiting to drop from the heavens. It is already right there on the apples at crushing time. Good discussion on "wild" yeast. For those not aware of it, virtually al varietal wines depend on the indigenous "wild" yeast found on the grape in the field. Champaign yeast is scraped off of grapes growing in the Champaign region, Burgundy yeast comes from grapes growing there, etc.... Each type is supposed to impart a unique character to the wine and is one of the reasons Europeans have gone to such great lengths to protect the names of their wines. There is nothing evil about "wild" yeast, after all, that is how wine and beer were discovered/invented. It is just that we have become technosnobs. We know how to scrape off a little of that special yeast and pure culture it to avoid contamination by any other undesired organisms. We know how to sterilize our must/wort and be absolutely certain that it will be true to type. This brings up an interesting project, and fits right into the plans for my anticipated bumper crop of apples and limited crop of grapes and elderberries. I am going to try to pure culture the apple yeast if I can find the bloom that Jay is talking about. All I have ever noticed on apples is the common rust which is also a fungus but not nearly as welcome. >From: polstra!larryba at uunet.UU.NET (Larry Barello) >Subject: Re: Lager vs Ale malts? >The bottom line is that step mashing is probably a quaint practice that is a hangover from.....So, anyone else out there given up step mashing when doing all malt recipes and been satisfied with the results? Anyone else have any evidence to support or debunk my claims, above? I would like to expand the poll to find out something I have been alleging from lilmited anecdotal experience. First of all, I think you are right about step mashing being a waste of time with the malts we use as far as extract efficiency is concerned. I however, believe that a mashout at 170F+ is the best insurance there is to avoid a set mash and would like to hear from people who can support or disprove the hypothesis. I have never had a set mash so I do not need to hear from others who have not. I just want to hear from those who have and whether or not they use a mashout. TRUB....... One additional comment on trub.... I have been dumping the trub from the brew kettle into a gallon jug and letting it settle in the fridge over night and get a quart or more of wort that I can either sterilize and dump in the ferment or use for starting the yeast for the next batch. That's a quart of beer I used to throw away. Put another way, it's a simple and freebe, 5% increase in yield. js ZZ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 8:49 GMT From: Andy Phillips <PHILLIPSA at LARS.AFRC.AC.UK> Subject: Re: mashing oats Jeff Mizener sent me a direct mailing asking about German oat beers. My reply bounced back, so I've posted it here: Jeff, Sorry, my information was second-hand. A beer-loving colleague of mine went to a scientific conference in Bavaria (on cereal storage products - proteins & starch) and at the main conference dinner beer was served instead of wine. He showed me the menu - there were several Weizens, 3-4 rye (roggen?) beers (there is at least one rye beer available here in England) and 2 oat beers. He was very enthusaistic about the oat beers, but his judgement may have been impaired by that stage.... Andy Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 12:19 EDT From: KENYON%LARRY%erevax.BITNET at pucc.Princeton.EDU Subject: Plating out WYEAST #3056 I just brewed a Weizen (recipe to follow) which is now fermenting with Wyeast #3056. I streaked a wort/agar petri dish with a sample from the Wyeast pouch. Since 3056 reportedly contains a 50/50 mix of s. cervisae and s. delbrueckii, do I need to maintain a slant of each of each of these strains and build each up prior to starting, or can I maintain both on the same slant? The latter sounds unlikely, so here's my question (?)... How will I be able to distinguish between the two strains on the plate? Is 50/50 the best ratio to use for pitching subsequent batches? I would like to hear any and all experience on this subject as soon as possible since my plate already had visible growth as of this morning, so please email to me and I'll summarize to the digest ... Now for the recipe: Weizen Schmeizen, 10 gallons 6.6# can IREKS Wheat Malt Extract (100% Malted Wheat) 6.6# can IREKS Light Malt Extract 2 oz Hallertau Leaf, Bittering, 60 min. (alpha=4.4) 1.5 oz. Cascade Leaf, Bittering, 30 min. (alpha=5.7) .5 oz Hallertau Plug, Aromatic, 15 min (alpha=2.9) Wyeast #3056 from a 1qt starter. Lag time 6-8 hrs. Bring 3 gallons water to boil, remove from heat and add malt extract syrup (yes, all of it). Bring mixture to boil, add Hallertau bittering hops. After 30 minutes add Cascade bittering hops, 15 minutes later add Hallertau plug (I used hop bags for all 3 additions). Cool wort (about 3.5 gallons) to about 100F, siphon onto another 3.5 gallons of cold tap water, aerating vigorously. This produced 7 gallons of wort with a S.G.=1.065 (I get great extract efficiency from my extracts!). I intend to rack (dilute) this into two secondaries each containing 1.5 gallons of water. Since there won't be any new sugars for the yeast to contend with I don't plan on aerating the additional water. I figure this should get me to 10 gallons of what would have been S.G.=1.045 beer, if I had the capacity (or deire) to brew/primary the entire volume. Pitched yeast starter at 75-80F. I'll post the results when I know them ... Thanks, -Chuck- Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 11:19:19 -0400 From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com> Subject: silcone again Hi, Well since I started this I guess I should report on my progress. With all the various ideas flying back and forth I called GE Silicones and asked them.[I figured they should know-)] Well they sent me a sample of Ge Silcone RTV102 that is FDA/USDA and NSF tested. The silcone will leak acetic acid during curing. But that doesn't worry me just makes me hungry. Thanks for the help. Nick ***************************************************************************** I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles! zen%hophead at canrem.com ***************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 11:57 CDT From: korz at ihpubj.att.com Subject: ESP/culturing/malehops First, I'd like to point out that there were *two* instances of ESP (no, not ESB) in the last HBD. First, I asked about the importance of protein rests with fully-modified malts, which was telepathically relayed to Larry Barello, who answered my question, and then there was the request for brewpubs in St. Louis followed by Walter Gude's review of Dave Miller's brewpub (I'm sure glad I didn't post right away). Secondly, I'd like to answer Chris' question about culturing from commercial beers such as Sierra Nevada. I've had great success with SNPA yeast, both from Wyeast and from the bottles. I have heard a rumour that SN has begun filtering their beers (I hope someone can dispel this rumour) -- I'm quite sure that their Pale Bock has no yeast in the bottom. The SNPA I have is a few months old and still has yeast in the bottom. I recommend you use a starter, Chris. All you have to do is put two tablespoons of malt in a cup of water and boil it for ten minutes. Cool that with the cover on the pot. When the mini-wort is at 70F, pour (from a foot or so above the sanitized funnel -- for aeration) the wort into a bottle in which you've left (as you had mentioned) the last 1cm of beer. Flame the lips of the bottles before every pour for added sanitation. I usually use three bottles of SNPA poured together into a single bottle and 8 ounces of wort. Attach and airlock. If the beer was around 60F or so, there is less shock to the yeast and it seems to start faster -- sometimes in as little as 12 hours. I suggest you wait 24-35 hours. At high- krausen, a 3-piece airlock will bubble about once every 1-2 minutes (equivalent to 40-80 bubbles/minute in a 5 gallon batch). Finally, a question: What do male hops look like? I think my Nugget may be a male. The "cones" look really tiny with 20-30 3/8" to 1/2" spikes sticking out of them. I'd be pretty upset if I raised this plant from a pup and then find out I have to rip it out. (Just for completeness, males are unwelcome in hopfields -- they fertilize the females causing them to make seeds instead of concentrating their efforts on lupulin.) Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 10:38:39 CDT From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: yeast/O-rings/Bully Porter >I see no reason to go to a second yeast, such as a champagne yeast. If you do, make sure that you use a large starter, and pitch at high krausen. There isn't enough O2 left in the wort for the yeast to undergo multiply (and/or the high alcohol kills much of the active yeast), so it's even more important to get the yeast going before adding it to the already-fermented wort. - -------------- >Wyeast #1098 is (allegedly) the Whitbread 3-strain. Any authorative information on this? I've heard it before, but I also thought that all the wyeast were single strains, except for the Bavarian Wheat yeast. - -------------- >to blame for the cola/rootbeer/etc. flavors. Foxx sells the little o-rings >for probably a dollar per dozen. At that price, why bother keeping the >old ones? What's their ph#/address? - -------------- >The best brew in the house was the guest beer Bully Porter form the ***** >brewery in Colorodo (does anyone know who brews this?). It comes from the Boulevard Brewery in Kansas City, MO bb Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Jul 1992 13:56:01 -0500 From: Chris McDermott <mcdermott at draper.com> Subject: Beverage Cooler Lauter Tun Beverage Cooler Lauter Tun I am in the process of planning what equipment that I will need when I go to all grain this fall. For my lauter (and optionally mash) tun, I am considering using one of those plastic cylinderical beverage coolers with a slotted pipe system for sparging. I know that this has been covered before, but I would like to hear from those who use this system, or a similar one, about the pros and cons of it. Additionaly does anyone know if where these coolers can be found in sizes greater than 5 gals? Please respond directly. And thank you. Chris McDermott, <mcdermott at draper.com> Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Jul 1992 14:16:28 -0500 From: Chris McDermott <mcdermott at draper.com> Subject: Cream Stouts and Lactose Cream Stouts and Lactose As I understand it, lactose is often added to cream stouts. Since the lactose is unfermentable by normal "beer" yeasts, it remains in the final product to give it a sweet, "creamy" flavor. Unfortunately, lactose is not only unfermentable by the yeasty-boys, it is also undigestable by many humans. Does anyone have a reasonable suggestions for a lactose substitute in these recipies. Perhaps there is a "natural" procedure for doing this, like using more specialty malts, or higher mash temps, but my inexperience has left me in the dark. Anyone got a light? Chris McDermott, [homebrew, not just for breakfast anymore] <mcdermott at draper.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 15:10:30 -0500 From: Brew Chemist Walter <walterbj at ernie.cis.uwosh.edu> Subject: Lotto America Digest Fellow HBD'ers, For all of you who enjoyed sending in your "lottery tickets" to the HBD, for all of you who have wasted precious bandwith and countless hours of company time for my having to wade through all the shit in the HBD lately, and for anyone else with info on the hunter airstat, see below: ANNOUNCING THE NEW Lotto America Digest Yes each and everyday (weekends excluded :-( ) you can send your useless e-mail to Lotto America Digest. A winner will be picked on the basis of the most inane use of bandwith each day, so really try and be bone stupid. To subscribe to the list send mail to the following address with "Thanks Jack" as the subject line Be aware that the sudden surge of mail may cause the moderator of the list to take a few days to post your responses, but you will get them I am sure. Good Day, and sorry for wasting HBD space, but I couldn't resist +-:-) Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 1992 15:36:08 -0500 (CDT) From: ISENHOUR at LAMBIC.FNAL.GOV (John L. Isenhour) Subject: yeast cultivation from bottles, barley wine Chris Estes writes: >I was wondering if anyone out there could give me some pointers on the >best methods of culturing yeasts from beer (SNPA in particular). The Yeast issue of Zymurgy has some good info. What I have been doing lately is to create a sterile starter (I use a pressure cooked - yeast flask or large flask or quart mason jar) 1-2 Tablespoons dry malt per 500 ml of good water. I let the beer bottles settle for a coupla days after purchase. Then I pour the bottles into a pitcher immediatly putting the yeast dregs into the sterile media, then shake the container, then store in a warm (75 deg f) place. It usually starts right up with little pinpoints of 'head', and is ready to go in a coupla days. I then pitch that into a gallon glass starter of 2 liters and taste it for infection. When the 2 liters of starter is ready to go I brew. I've gotten great results this way, and you can inocculate a quart mason jar and refriderate it it in a plastic bag, and it keeps for several months. I would advise making a starter rather than adding right to the carboy to decrease the lag time. -The Hopdevil Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 14:32:34 PDT From: thomasf at deschutes.ico.tek.com (Thomas D. Feller) Subject: Root Beer Repair OK so I should have know better than use tabs in my email. Let try again. OLD FASHIONED ROOT BEER "Use strong bottles with patent stoppers or tie corks in securely. Use a stone crock or granite vessell in which to let drinks stand while 'working.' Fresh roots from the woods are always preferable to dried herbs. Select a cool place in which to store the drinks; the longer they stand in a warm place after bottling, the more effervescent they will become! When filling bottles, fill to within an inch of the top. 1 cake compressed yeast 5 pounds sugar 2 ounces Sassafras root 2 ounces Juniper Berries 1 ounce Hops or Ginger Root 1 ounce Dandelion root 2 ounces Wintergreen 4 gallons water Wash roots well in cold water. Add juniper berries (crushed) and hops. Pour 8 quarts boiling water over root mixture and boil slowly 20 minutes. Strain through flannel bag. Add sugar and remaining 8 quarts water. Allow to stand until lukewarm. Dissolve yeast in a little cool water. Add to root liquid. Stir will. Let settle then strain again and bottle. Cork tightly. Keep in a warm room 5 to 6 hours, then store in a cool place. Put on ice as required for use." The Fleishman Company, Excellent Recipes for Baking Raised Bread, 1912 A couple of notes from the Oregon Brewer Fest A great time! Lots of great beers I worked next to Devils Mt. Brewery on Friday night. They were pouring Railroad Ale, I saw no one from the brewery but they seem to still be in business I had a long talk with someone who works at Widmer... they only use one yeast and the repitch from batch to batch. The Hefe-Wisen is kegged young (4-5 days?) and before kegging the recirclate the beer to reach the desired cloudly state. Tom Feller Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #931, 07/23/92