HOMEBREW Digest #932 Fri 24 July 1992

Digest #931 Digest #933


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  PET bottles & missing digests 928 & 929 (Jeff Mizener)
  Fridges, yet again. (KIERAN O'CONNOR)
  lallemand and its yeasts (Tony Babinec)
  mashout,hops,cooler (Russ Gelinas)
  re Single Step Infusions and American Malts, Blue Flakes (John Hartman)
  SN Pale Bock yeast (Pierre.Jelenc)
  Foxx Equipment Co. (korz)
  Setting up starter wort (Bob_Konigsberg)
  Re: HefeweiBbier in CA (Richard Stueven)
  Re: ESP/culturing/malehops (Richard Stueven)
  Champaign & sparging (Brian Bliss)
  ESP/culturing/malehops (lg562)
  spaced out hops (dave ballard)
  King Cooker Modification ("John Cotterill")
  Coke Beer, Window Screen (Jack Schmidling)
  Re: Lager vs Ale malts? (Jeff Benjamin)
  Priming with honey (Steven J Boege)
  Belgian Impressions - Brugge (C.R. Saikley)
  Homebrew digest posting (Kevin M. Madge)
  Re: KENYON yeast culturing (eurquhar)
  Flame (Bob Gorman)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 09:32:36 EDT From: avalon!jm at siemens.siemens.com (Jeff Mizener) Subject: PET bottles & missing digests 928 & 929 Well, I won't win a maltmill but the mailtool in Openwindows 2 has a bug that causes it to disobey the command to save a message to a new file sometimes. Could someone send me digests 928 & 929? Please drop me a note first and then send as I don't want to get 30 of each. Thanks. I recently went on a camping/rafting trip with number of beer brewers and drinkers (mostly drinkers). A friend from Canada brought 24 one liter PET (green plastic soft drink) bottles full of homebrew. Needless to say he was pretty well accepted into the group. But the PET bottles caused a stir. The assembled group oohh'd and aahhhh'd over the bottles (& the beer) but generally admitted that this was an unfamiliar but desirable method of storing beer. He buys them at one of the (at least 3) homebrew supply shops in Kingston, Ontario for $cdn9 per dozen. He says they're cheaper mailorder. Well, not one to be the last to try something new, I went to Canada and bought 12 liters & 24 half liters, with caps (good sealing caps). They don't break, they're easy to clean, they're light and my next batch of bitter will go in them. When they get old, you can recycle them (at least in Raleigh...). Any comments??? My local BrewStoreMeister said that they were available but rather expensive. He said that Coors had floated some trial marketing balloons but the reception had not been real good. In Britian you can buy lots of different beers in 2 litre pet bottles. Granted, there's a certain visceral satisfaction to opening a crown-capped bottle and hearing the `pffffssstt', but is there any reason why we shouldn't use these bottles?? Raft trip attendee and digest subscriber Bob Safranek tells me he found the bottles at a HB store in Milwaukee at $13.00 for 24 - 16 oz. More expensive than Canada but not bad... Cheers, Jeff ======================================================== Jeff Mizener / Siemens Energy & Automation / Raleigh NC jm at sead.siemens.com / Intelligent SwitchGear Systems ======================================================== (reply to this address, not the one in the header!!) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 10:10 EDT From: KIERAN O'CONNOR <OCONNOR%SNYCORVA.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Fridges, yet again. Sorry, but one more note on fridges. Refrigerator thermostats have upper and lower bounds so that they can be used for food, not lagering. If you have one and want to test it to see how low a temp it will achieve, remove the thermostat. Connect the two thermostat wires (the green one is a ground) and let it run for about 30 minutes. Make sure you have a thermometer in there, or preferably, an inside/outside thermometer (the kind with a probe). Then you can see what type of thermostat to buy. The key here is that you can't let this fridge run forever w/o some type of thermomstat, the compressor will run out. If you are interested, I wrote an article for our club newsletter (Ithaca Brewers' Union) and I will forward it to you if you wish a copy. Just put in the message "Brew News Request". Kieran O'Connor oconnor at snycorva.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 9:31:40 CDT From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: lallemand and its yeasts In a recent HBD, someone asked about Windsor dry yeast from Lallemand. I haven't yet used it, but I picked up some information from the G.W. Kent table at AHA National. As many homebrewers use dry yeasts, and as rumor has it dry Whitbread ale yeast is disappearing, I thought I'd post some information on Lallemand. This comes straight from their company literature. If anyone has experience using any of their yeasts, please post to HBD. If anyone in interested in Lallemand products or information, you should obtain them from G.W. Kent via your homebrew shop. The following is reprinted from Lallemand literature... Lallemand, Inc. was founded in Montreal by a young immigrant who left his native Alsace after the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-1. Today, Lallemand has state of the art facilities in France, Denmark, Canada, and the United States. Lallemand is the largest producer in the world of Yeast Nutrition products to aid in fermentation. Many of the largest breweries around the world use Lallemand's Fermaid nutrient. In addition to brewing yeasts, Lallemand is a major producer of bakery products, distillery yeasts, bacteria for the food, pharmaceuticals and agricultural fields, and the world's largest producer of wine yeast. More than 75% of France's champagne producers use Lallemand's Lalvin EC-1118 strain of yeast. Lallemand also produces the popular strains Lalvin K1V-1116 and Lalvin 71B-1122. Windsor English Ale Yeast is a powdery yeast that gives a drier beer which is clean and well-balanced. This yeast produces an ale which is estery to both palate and nose with a slight fresh yeast flavor. This yeast completely ferments wort within 4 days. Windsor Ale is a classic top fermenting yeast with some flocculating characteristics. It is best used at traditional ale temperatures after rehydration. Nottingham Beer Yeast (ale yeast?) is remarkable for its high degree of flocculation. This yeast settles out very quickly and firmly. Many brewers have commented that Nottingham Beer Yeast appears to glue itself to the bottom of fermenters and bottles. The obvious benefit is the reduction of filter usage and a clearer beer. German Konig Lager Yeast produces a very clean beer with a fresh yeasty character. This yeast completely ferments wort within 5 days at 77 degrees F and it is not flocculent. It settles slowly to the bottom of the tank after fermentation is finished. It can be used to ferment worts between 45F and 86F. However, it should be noted that the flavor characteristics of the yeast change between these two extremes of temperature. Any enquiry, technical or commercial, can be directed to Randy or Chantal G.W. Kent Inc. 3691 Morgan Road Ann Arbor, Michigan 48108 313-572-1300 tel 313-572-0097 fax OR Lallemand Inc. 1620 Prefontaine Montreal, P.Q., HIW 2NB CANADA 514-522-2133 tel 514-522-2884 fax Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 10:12:30 -0400 (EDT) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: mashout,hops,cooler Not in that order, actually. First, those small spikey growths on your hops may very well be the beginnings of the cones; they start out looking like burrs, then eventually turn into cones. I'd say give it a couple of weeks. If they don't change, or if you notice definite pollen falling from the spikey growths and you have female plants nearby, you might well have to pull it up. On the subject of hops, I just brewed a wheat beer finished with my own Hallertauer hops. In contrast, the Cascade plant (1 year younger, actually I got it from Dave Wills of Freshops for the Manchester conference!) is just now producing the "burrs". I think the H may be done for the season; Japanese Beetles really damaged it. Strangely, they haven't touched the Cascade. Re. mashout: I always mashout at 170+ degF. I've gotten one stuck sparge out of 10 or so batches. The grain was crushed pretty finely, too much powder, so I think that was the cause. Mashing out should help *avoid* stuck sparges, but it won't eliminate them. It also helps extraction efficiency. I sparge in a *10* gallon cylindrical cooler from Wal-Mart. Service Merchandise has them too. That size cooler is seasonal stock, so don't wait. Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 13:16:34 PDT From: hartman at varian.varian.com (John Hartman) Subject: re Single Step Infusions and American Malts, Blue Flakes Recently Larry Barello asks about experiences with single stepping vs. using a protein rest when mashing. When I switched to grain brewing, I assiduously followed everything Dave Miller told me to do. It paid off, as the first batch was quite an improvement over my extract brews. One regret I had was that there was so much more to do than when extract brewing. Well I set out then to streamline the process of mashing. One of the first things I did was to try the same recipe/procedure sans the protein rest. The elimination of the protein rest made no difference. That was many batches ago and have not used a protein rest since. I assume that the protein rest is obviated by the use of modern, fully modified malts. Glenn asks about blue flakes coming from his counter-flow chiller. I suspect you use some chlorinated solution to store your chiller. I used to do that with mine and found that the chlorine slowly corrodes the copper. Don't do that if you are. When I'm done brewing I just run 140F hot water through both the inner and outer flow paths of the chiller for about five minutes, then store it dry. This works fine and I haven't had any infections in say 30 batches. Hope this helps. Cheers, John hartman at varian.varian.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 11:36:06 EDT From: Pierre.Jelenc at cunixf.cc.columbia.edu Subject: SN Pale Bock yeast Al (korz at ihpubj.att.com) mentionned in hbd 931 that he thought that Sierra Nevada's Pale Bock did not contain yeast. That is not the case in the bottles we get in New York. I recently cultivated the yeast from one bottle, and have it now on slants and in the freezer. I have not used it yet, so I have no idea how it behaves during brewing, but it appears to be extremely flocculent. Pierre Pierre Jelenc pcj1 at cunixf.cc.columbia.edu Columbia University, New York Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 10:42 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Foxx Equipment Co. Foxx Equipment Company 421 Southwest Blvd. Kansas City, MO 64108 1-800-821-2254 They carry everything for beverage dispensing: from kegs to hoses to taps, to faucets, to keg O-RINGS, to fridges, etc., etc. There have another location, which may be closer to you, ask them when you call. I've bought a lot of stuff from them -- good service, reliable, only problem was that they did not accept credit cards -- you had to place an order then send them a check. Maybe they've changed that -- I hope so. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 08:43 PDT From: Bob_Konigsberg at 3mail.3com.com Subject: Setting up starter wort On the advice of a friend, I got a case of quart mason jars, boiled up 3 gallons (in the end) of generic wort (3# liquid malt extract), and then canned them in a pressure cooker. voila - several months (depending on usage) pre-supply of sterile wort. Just sterilize a gallon jug, start the wyeast packet a day in advance of adding to the starter wort (or use dry yeast), pour the yeast in, and fit with a fermentation lock about two or three days before you brew. Use a sterilized funnel to keep the wort and yeast away from the mouth of the bottle. By way of example, the overflow bucket for the last batch was full of foam the following morning; this was about 9 hours after pitching. I avoided this for a while as being too much work, but now that I've made three batches each with virtually no lag time (<12hours), and my beers no longer have infection problems, I'd recommend this to everyone. It's made a tremendous improvement in the quality of my beer. After the first batch this way, I threw all previous batches down the drain. Credit would also have to go to the counterflow (got it right this time) wort chiller for keeping the wort sterile during cooling, but I think the vigorous (otherwise sterile) yeast culture probably deserves most of the credit for clean beer. BobK Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 09:13:30 PDT From: gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) Subject: Re: HefeweiBbier in CA Mike McNally said: > All I can say is that the Hefeweizen from Twenty Tank was > even worse. Everything that Twenty Tank makes is even worse. Bill Owens may deserve credit for getting the California microbrewing industry off the ground, but his brewpubs make uniformly bad beer. gak 107/H/3&4 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 09:20:25 PDT From: gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) Subject: Re: ESP/culturing/malehops > I have heard a > rumour that SN has begun filtering their beers (I hope someone can > dispel this rumour) -- I'm quite sure that their Pale Bock has no > yeast in the bottom. The Pale Bock is the only filtered Sierra Nevada beer. (Thank goodness for that!) Another data point: the fastest, cleanest fermentation I've had to date was with yeast I took from a couple of SN Porter bottles. gak 107/H/3&4 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 11:40:17 CDT From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss) Subject: Champaign & sparging rf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) writes: > Champaign yeast is scraped off of grapes growing in the Champaign region, That's funny, I've never seen many grapes aound here... Champaign is in Illinois, Champagne is in France. I guess we could start making a sparkling wine here, and legitamitely call it "Champaign", though. (btw, Is that the correct spelling of "legitamitely"?) >I however, believe that a mashout at 170F+ is the best insurance there is to >avoid a set mash and would like to hear from people who can support or >disprove the hypothesis. I have never had a set mash so I do not need to >hear from others who have not. I just want to hear from those who have and >whether or not they use a mashout. I have had quite a few set mashes. Most of them involved wheat malt, and in those that didn't, I ground the grain finer than I usually do. Only once did I omit the mashout. The sparge ran noticeablly slower at first, but wheat malt and fineness of grind seemed to be much bigger factors. I don't know how to define "set", though, so put it this way: A normal sparge for me takes 2 hours. Multiply by 1.5 if wheat malt was used, or 2.5 if it made up 50% of the grist. Multiply by .6 when using < 7 lbs of grain (this is rare for me). I suspect that your use of the Maltmill has quite a bit to do avoiding set mashes. I see now that the Malt Shop in WI is offering a "Maltmill" for $99. Is this the one and only? Maybe this fall I'll get one, but for now, I'm trying to figure out how to produce enough beer for my own consumption with the least amount of effort possible. This means using exracts only, making the least amount of mess possible, and I'm trying to get a Firestone keg system together. I'm sick of putting in a 12-hr brew day, followed by an hour or two extra cleanup of the kithen the next day, followed by a 2-hr bottling session (includes cleanup time). Heck, I could drink half the previous batch in that 16 hrs! (Last time I tried, I passed out halfway through the boil, though.) bb Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 09:53:35 -0700 From: lg562 at koshland.pnl.gov Subject: ESP/culturing/malehops Date: Wed, 22 Jul 92 11:57 CDT From: korz at ihpubj.att.com Finally, a question: What do male hops look like? I think my Nugget may be a male. The "cones" look really tiny with 20-30 3/8" to 1/2" spikes sticking out of them. I'd be pretty upset if I raised this plant from a pup and then find out I have to rip it out. Al. Don't rip them out. Those sound like immature flowers to me. Just wait and watch them get bigger. The little "spikes" will drop off shortly. mb Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Jul 1992 13:26 EDT From: dab at blitzen.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard) Subject: spaced out hops saw this today: dab - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- (reprinted without permission from Air & Space- Aug./Sept. 1993) Strange Brew When the shuttle Discovery lifted off last January, it had, officially, 42 experiments to conduct. But thanks to a Canadian pub and avid homebrewer-astronaut Bill Readdy, a 43rd experiment was added at the last minute: a study of the effect of zero gravity on hops. Readdy smuggled aboard about nine ounces of hops, bought at a Houston homebrew store, and slipped them into the fresh food locker. They were almost eaten during the flight by a fellow astronaut who, apparently bored with his own rations, wanted to sample the "green leafy stuff" in the plastic bag. After the shuttle landed at Edwards Air Force Base in California, the hops were sped by courier to Spinnakers Brew Pub on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, where Brewmaster Jake Thomas was waiting to include them in "Discovery Ale: A Taste Worthy of Those Who Dare to Explore." Weeks later, Readdy and the rest of the crew showed up for a taste. Aside from an entourage of 30 or so from NASA and the Canadian Space Agency, only a select handful of beer connoisseurs from Campaign for Real Ale, Victoria chapter, and a few bewildered tourists witnessed the event. Stepping behind the bar, Readdy drew the first glass of Discovery Ale, rapidly quaffed a few mouthfulls, caught the drips on his NASA rugby shirt, and proclaimed, "I declare this ale fit for human consumption!" It certainly was. The full-flavored amber ale drew both scientific and spiritual acclaim as the cask was drained in the time it takes to climb out of a spacesuit. Discovery Ale certificates, signed by the brewmaster and the Spinnakers proprietor, were handed out to the astronauts and the rest of the samplers. In exchange, the pub received a large color photo of the Kamchatka peninsula taken during Discovery's flight. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 10:46:52 PDT From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com> Subject: King Cooker Modification Full-Name: "John Cotterill" I use a propane powered King Kooker for my boils. The unit is great at getting the water to the boiling point (10-15 min for 10 gallons). The problem that I have, however, is once boiling, the heat needs to be reduced to prevent an extremely vigorous boil. At low settings, the flame burns to rich and produces lots of carbon on my boiler which is a pain to clean and very messy. I would like to add a small burner ring to the cooker for low settings. Does anyone know where I could locate a small ring (without buying a stove attached to it)? Any other suggestions? Thanks, JC johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 10:28 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Coke Beer, Window Screen To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: korz at ihpubj.att.com > I would be interested to know how you think the o-ring seals without contacting the beer. My guess is that at least 30% of the large one sealing the lid is exposed to beer on the inside. <I don't know at what angle you're storing your kegs -- I keep mine upright and the only time the large o-ring touches the beer is during the carbonation agitation. First of all I suspect the contact during agitation is not trivial because this is when the beer does most of its absorbing . Furthermore, even when not directly in contact with beer, the rubber outgasses to the atmosphere in the keg and this is absorbed directly into the beer. Whatever the mechanism of transfer is/was, it was sufficent to strongly flavor the beer. > Foxx sells the little o-rings for probably a dollar per dozen. At that price, why bother keeping the old ones? The usual reason... sloth. >As you will recall when you first posted your window screen lautering system, I said that it would probably give you lower extraction efficiencies. A short while ago, you posted a recipe and your extract efficiency was pretty low, which could be due in part to other factors, but I'm sure that the fact that your lautering system only draws runoff from the center is most of your efficiency problem. I checked my files and could not find your recipe, but to the best of my recollection, it was 9 lbs of grain yielding 5 gallons of 1045 wort. This is 25 points per pound/gallon (45 * 5 / 9). Many HBD posters have reported 33 points and some even higher. 33 points would give you 1059 from 9 lbs of grain. Looks to me as if you're throwing away (or composting or making bread from) 25% of your grain's sugars. Two points here. You have all the numbers right except the volume. I have never made a 5 gallon batch, they range from 6 to 7+ and that may sound trivial but if you do the math, you will find the extra gallons put it pretty close to nominal. Having said that, I did get a little depressed over the yields Larry B was getting by comparison and found the culprit to be..... would you believe... the MALTMILL. It turns out I have been using a reject from the early days when I was unable to control the spacing very well. The spacing was about .080 at one end and some grain was getting through barely touched and lots not properly crushed. I declared myself the winner of an impromptu lottery and took one out of the "shipping department" with the proper spacing. I used this on the last batch and the yield improved substantially. In defense of the EASYMASHER, it is very easy to check the thoroughness of extraction by stirring and resparging the spent grains and checking the gravity of the runoff for lost sugar. I do this routinely and there is none. I hate to seem so hide bound but that 4 inch tube of window screen works as well if not better than the most sophisticated lautering system. It further has the distinct advantage of running clear after less than one cup is drawn off. It works so well, as a matter of fact, that it will be introduced as a new product in the next issue of Zymurgy. Bet y'all can't wait till I sell 100 of them. :) js Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 13:22:08 MDT From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Re: Lager vs Ale malts? > In fact (from memory, no reference at hand) > the longer germination time (aka over modification) is what is responsible > for the availablility of free amino nitrogen (FAN) without the protein > step in mashing. Lager malts (classic undermodified) presumably have more > of the starch locked up in the steely endosperm with long interlocking > protein chains. The protein rest is needed here to generate FAN, reduce > long chains (chill haze) and liberate the starch for sugar conversion. According to Noonan's "Brewing Lager Beers," this is correct. I was attempting to condense, from memory, an entire evening's conversation on a topic I really don't know much about. Always a dangerous thing to attempt :-). Out of curiosity last night, I carefully de-husked small samples of both Hugh Baird pale malt and Jim Bruce's pale malt and compared the length of the acrospires (i.e., the modification). The Baird was "fully" modified; the acrospires were usually 3/4 to the entire length of the kernel. Jim's malt, on the other hand, was what Noonan would describe as an undermodified "American" malt, with the acrospire usually one-half to three-fourths the length of the kernel. Perhaps that's why Jim advocated the use of a full step mash when he gave us a sample of his malt. The batch we made with it is in its final ferment right now, so I don't yet know how it will do with respect to head retention, chill haze, etc. (I also haven't had a chance to discuss the subject with Jim yet, either. I'll post more when I do.) - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at hpfcla.fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium." - T.S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 15:21:30 -0400 From: sjbg at troi.cc.rochester.edu (Steven J Boege) Subject: Priming with honey Greetings, I am intersted in using honey as priming sugar. It seems to me that this was discussed here recently. How much honey should be used to prime a five gallon batch of beer? How should it be prepared? I have started working on a collection of spent grain recipes, adapting existing recipes which call for unmalted barley, steel cut oats, cracked wheat, and other grains. I have recipes for bread (at least one of which was posted in the Spring). I am looking for any other cooking suggestions people have. Please either post recipes, or send them to me. Cheers, Steve - -- Steven J. Boege "...I like too many things and get Physics Department all confused and hung-up running from University of Rochester one falling star to another till I Rochester NY 14627 drop. This is the night, what it sjbg at troi.cc.rochester.edu does to you. I had nothing to offer (716)473-8652 [Home] anybody except my own confusion." (716)275-3896 [Office] On The Road by Jack Kerouac Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 12:43:09 PDT From: grumpy!cr at uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley) Subject: Belgian Impressions - Brugge For most visitors to Belgium, the Flemish city of Brugge (Bruges in French) is on the list of "must see" places - and for good reason. The city's well preserved architecture and network of canals give it a unique ambiance and charm. A brief synopsis of Brugge's history will shed some light on how this came to be. A few hundred years ago, a relatively large, navigable river ran through Brugge and to the Belgian coast. There was quite a bit of trade along this river, from which Brugge derived considerable wealth. As a result, the town was built with some of the finest architecture of the day. It seemed as though Brugge would continue to grow and prosper, until Mother Nature intervened. The river changed its course. This left Brugge without its lifeline. Its commerce withered, and it became much poorer. While wealthier communities were able to continue building and "improving", Brugge was not. Furthermore, Brugge was spared in two world wars, but many other parts of Belgium weren't so fortunate. Consequently, Brugge is not filled with modern ugliness, but instead has retained its old world character. As irony would have it, Brugge is again one of Belgium's wealthier cities. Its architectural treasures attract the dollars of tourists from around the world. Prior to WWI, Brugge had 31 breweries. Today there are two : Straffe Hendrik (translatable as Strong Henry), and De Gouden Boom (The Golden Tree). Time did not permit a visit to Straffe Hendrik, but I did get to spend a wonderful afternoon at De Gouden Boom. I was met at the brewery gates by Louis Van Reeth, De Gouden Boom's commercial director. He proved to be a very gracious host. De Gouden Boom traces its roots back to 1872, when it was founded by Jules Vanneste, and was originally called 't Hammerke (The Hammer). It has been passed down from father to son, and is now run by Paul Vanneste, the fourth generation brewmaster. In an age of rampant brewery closures and takeovers, De Gouden Boom survives as an independent operation. Fortunately, the Vanneste's have a 12 year old son, and it is hoped that the tradition will continue. Today they produce four different beers. Brugs Tarwebier is their Wit beer. It is pale yellow and cloudy, with a soft yeasty and refreshing palate. It has been a very successful product for them, as Wit beers have grown in popularity in recent years. At 5%v, the Wit beer is their lightest entry. They also make two Abbey style beers, a Dubbel and a Tripel, under the name Abdij Steenbrugge. The Dubbel is a deep brown color, with rummy flavors from the addition of dark candy sugar, and yeasty estery notes from the fermentation. The Tripel is appropriately pale in color, and is somewhat drier than the Dubbel. It has the same estery fermentation byproducts, but its flavors are more in balance. Their heavy weight beer is called Brugse Tripel. It weighs in at 9.5%v, and is my personal favorite. It's a big, rich, complex brew which is amazingly smooth given its potency. This brew spends a full four hours in the mash tun to extract every last bit of sugar from the grains. It's packaged in a variety of sizes, including 1.5 liter magnums, which add alot of weight to your luggage, but are worth every ounce. The beautiful copper brewhouse looks traditional enough, yet is controlled remotely from a not so traditional electronic panel. To keep all of the modern technology in line, a larger than life image of St. Arnouldus watches over the control room. St. Arnoldus, the patron saint of brewers, is said to have invoked a miracle by producing beer after an abbey brewery collapsed in the 11th century. His popularity in Belgium persists to this day. The brews all go through about one week of primary fermentation, and are then moved to aging/maturation tanks for secondary. The CO2 given off during primary is collected by an elaborate system of airlocks and pipes, and is used to carbonate kegged beer. The beers are all filtered and centrifuged with the exception of the Wit, which retains its yeasty character. The other bottled beers are then innoculated with a different culture for conditioning. The rather large bottling line can crank out 14,000 bottles per hour. After filling, the bottles move on to a warm room, where they are stored at 25 degrees C (77F) to encourage another fermentation. Both warm conditioning and centrifuging are rare practices in the US, and may seem unusual to readers in the states. They are, however, fairly common in Belgian breweries. De Gouden Boom produces 30,000 hecto liters annually (about 26,000 barrels), and of course generates quite a bit of spent grain. They dispose of this by-product by feeding it to cattle on nearby farms. Making light of this, Mr. Van Reeth commented, "In Brugge, the cows don't give milk, they give beer!" After touring the brewery itself, visitors can get a glimpse of Brugge's brewing history. De Gouden Boom is devoted to preserving this history, and maintains a brewery museum on the premesis. A large part of the museum is devoted to the old malthouse, which was built in 1902 and remained in operation until 1976. All of the original machinery is still in place. The rest of the museum focuses on the many breweries that formerly existed in Brugge, displaying old pictures, documents, barrels, maltmills, and breweriana from days gone by. Of special interest is a map, complete with photographs, indicating the locations of the defunct breweries. Since almost all of the buildings are still intact, the truly obsessed can wander around the city and find several of the old breweries. Like all good brewery tours, this one culminated in a trip to the bar to sample the wares. The hospitality room at De Gouden Boom is much like a Belgian cafe. A large group had started their tour ahead of us, and they were in full swing by the time we made it to the bar. Their presence added a festive air to the simple elegance of tasting room. All four beers are available, both for consumption on premesis or carry out. In addition, glassware, gift packs, and the usual souveniers can be purchased. As the brewery was closing, Mr. Van Reeth made a final gesture of good will. He presented us each with a magnum bottle of Brugse Tripel, corked and wrapped in foil. Definitely a beer to be saved for a special occasion, and one that will encourage several toasts to St. Arnoldus, to Brouwerij De Gouden Boom, and to Louis Van Reeth. De Gouden Boom is open for public tours. Call ahead for hours. Brouwerij De Gouden Boom Langestraat 47 8000 Brugge Belgium (050) 33 06 99 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 15:49:57 EDT From: magdek at LONEX.RL.AF.MIL (Kevin M. Madge) Subject: Homebrew digest posting Does anyone have any guesses as to the recipe for Samichlaus? I talked to a few people with discerning palates and they claim that there is a mystery flavor in it. Any ideas? Kevin Magde magdek at lonex.rl.af.mil Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 92 13:28:55 -0700 From: eurquhar at sfu.ca Subject: Re: KENYON yeast culturing In a word YES. If a yeast culture has more than one yeast species/strain present in the mixture both must be maintained separately and grown up separately for the balance to be maintained. If not then one species will become dominant over time as it is very unlikely that growth rates are exactly matched. As to how you tell the difference that is a much more difficult problem. Since both strains are Saccharomyces they will appear to be very similar to the naked eye and likely also under the microscope. If you simply streaked out from the undiluted wort mixture then chances are very good that none of the colonies which have appeared are composed of only 1 species. The easiest way would be to dilute a sample of the inoculated wort by 1000 to 10,000 times and streak out this mixture over several plates. However, doing dilutions like this should be done aseptically with sterile water or wort. Since, you are at Princeton I would suggest going over to the biomedical library and taking a look at "Yeasts" either the edition by Lodder(1980?) or Kreger VanRij(1984). This is the standard reference work on yeast taxonomy full of great pictures and detailed descriptions. Everything including all methods you would need are included. If you need any more help you know where to find me. Welcome to the wonderful world of yeast culturing Eric Urquhart, (eurquhar at sfu.ca)Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, British Columbia Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1992 17:38:21 EDT From: bob at rsi.com (Bob Gorman) Subject: Flame In HBD #926 Jack Schmidling writes about his cold plate and adds: "I brought it to Milwaukee with a keg of you know what." This remark I can not leave untouched. I tasted some of that beer. It was a terrible brew, infected, astringent and unbalanced. As one conference goer stated: "How fitting it's served in urine sample cups.". Although this a direct flame against Jack, it is also the truth. -- Bob Gorman Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #932, 07/24/92