HOMEBREW Digest #933 Sat 25 July 1992

Digest #932 Digest #934

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Cider yeasts (Andy Phillips)
  trip to london (DBA-CRI)" <CRIPRT at RULMVS.LEIDENUNIV.NL>
  Priming with honey, growing hops, beer on draft (J.N.) Avery <JAVERY at BNR.CA>
  S. Delbrueckii (KENYON)
  dogs, fleas & beer (wasn't that a folk group?) (Sean J. Caron)
  Discolorization of Primary (Stuart Siegler)
  Good and bad malt, fittings (Jim Griggers)
  Advanced brewing advantages? ("Joe Dalsin")
  Japanese Beetles (mpl)
  Re: King Cooker Modification (Michael L. Hall)
  FREE! software for searching Homebrew Digest (Tom Kaltenbach)
  re: PET bottles (R.B.) Buckingham <BRETTB at BNR.CA>
  Removing carbon from pot bottoms (Jeff Copeland)
  Buffalo Confusion (C.R. Saikley)
  St Arnouldus vs St. Gambrinus (Jay Hersh)
  Great Taste Breweries & Kegs (John Freeborg)
  Re: Priming with honey (Alan Edwards)
  gorman's lack of tact (ZLPAJGN)
  Los Angeles Brew Pubs (RMOREAUX)
  MICROMASHING (Jack Schmidling)
  World's Greatest Generic Ale (chris campanelli)
  Re: Priming with honey (Mark N. Davis)
  Re: Sterile yeast starters (Mark N. Davis)
  scrumpy (Neal A Raisman)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 8:41 GMT From: Andy Phillips <PHILLIPSA at LARS.AFRC.AC.UK> Subject: Re: Cider yeasts My statement about yeast "falling from the heavens" in cider making was, of course, complete nonsense, as Jay Hersh pointed out. The unreliable source was a book about the history of Somerset cider. I've now gone and read the scientific reports of the old Microbiology Department here at Long Ashton Research Station, which state that cider yeasts came originally from the surface of the fruit, but are now usually introduced from culture. The reports do point out, however, that in a cider factory with a continuous brewing process (and the customary poor sanitation), the local flora in the factory is at least as a source of yeasts as the apples themselves, particularly as the factory yeasts have been acclimatized to the conditions. Continuing on this theme, Jack S. says he plans to culture yeast from the apples for making cider. This is probably not a simple task, since there will be many different yeast species on the surface of the fruit, some of which may produce a very unpalatable drink if used to ferment the juice. The Long Ashton Report of 1971 describes eight different yeasts isolated from apples, including varieties of S. cerevisiae, S. uvarum and members of other genera (ie. not Saccharomyces). The standard yeast used in the cider brewery here is an isolate of S. uvarum. The authors also tested the effects of inoculating apple juice with a mixture of S. uvarum or S. cerevisiae with one of the other 'wild' yeasts (e.g Candida pulcherrima*). They concluded that the resulting cider had in many cases a 'more full flavour' than with the single Saccharomyces yeast alone (which explains why cider produced using a single cultured yeast is inferior to that produced from yeasts present naturally on the apples), but that some combinations were unpleasant, with acetic or sulphurous tastes. If you culture from apples without a knowledge of yeast identification, chances are you'll get a very different drink from that made with a commercial yeast, or with the natural mix of yeasts on the apples. Incidentally, you can probably buy cultures of all these wild and cultivated yeasts, at a price, from your national yeast collection. Over here, a single dried ampoule costs 19 pounds from the National Collection of Yeast Cultures in Norwich. * N.B. These scientific names may have changed since 1971: taxonomists like to change the names every few years to convince themselves that they're at the cutting edge of science and to confuse the rest of us. Andy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 13:49 CET From: "R.P.M. Tebarts (DBA-CRI)" <CRIPRT at RULMVS.LEIDENUNIV.NL> Subject: trip to london Hello, Next week I will be going to London for a few day's. I would like sugestions on where to drink in the center of London. (Pub name and underground station please). And any sugestions about what beers to drink are very welcome. I don't have much drinking experience with ale's so a taste description would be nice. In anticipation thanks. Rob Tebarts E-mail : CRIPRT at RULMVS.LEIDENUNIV.NL Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Jul 92 08:45:00 EDT From: Joel (J.N.) Avery <JAVERY at BNR.CA> Subject: Priming with honey, growing hops, beer on draft I prime exclusively with honey, mostly because I have it in the house, and corn sugar is forbidden to go near my beer. I add about 3.5 ounces for a slightly less than 20 litre batch (my carboys are 19.8 litres, which is 5 US gallons I believe). Never having primed with corn sugar, I can't give any advice about what the equivalent amount of sugar would be. A recent mead thread indicated that honey was very fermentable (so is corn sugar), so amounts might be very close. As for technique, I boil the honey up with some water, to sanitize the honey. That started a discussion about whether or not the boiling was required, and the digest turned really scientific about whether any nasties could live in honey. And, as Bones might say, "Dammit Jim, I'm a computer scientistic, not a biologist". I still boil it, but just to be anal. I can't remember the final verdict. I'm not sure if it matters, but I am a cake mix brewer. While I have your attention, I planted hops this year. One vine I fed the the local bunny rabbit, and the other is about 6 or 7 feet, and seems to be growing about one inch a day. I'm in Ottawa, Canada, and I am wondering if this is typical, slow, or what. No signs of flowers. Maybe you can help me with my house renovations as well. I am currently in the later stages of planning my new kitchen, and I figure to incorporate beer into the plan. I want to build a cold room in the basement under part of the kitchen to store beer and wine, and maybe some food, but the food isn't important here, just the beer. I plan to convert to kegging, and keep the kegs in here, and run lines up to the kitchen so that I can have two kinds of beer on draft by the kitchen sink. I brew mostly bitters, and brown ales, and figure that this room will be about 12 degrees Celcuis in the summer - perfect for my beer style. Has anyone tackled this in the past? I figure that the beer lines once they leave the cold room should be of narrow diameter to minimize the amount of beer that could get warm. Should I leave the kegs under constant CO2 pressure, or should I control the CO2 from the kitchen? What other design considerations should I consider? Joel Avery <javery at bnr.ca> Manager, Distributed File Systems Evolution Bell-Northern Research, P.O. Box 3511 Station C, Ottawa, Ontario, CANADA K1Y 4H7 Phone (613) 765-4638 ESN 395-4638 Fax (613) 765-2854 ESN 395-2854 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 09:40 EDT From: KENYON%1235%erevax.BITNET at pucc.Princeton.EDU Subject: S. Delbrueckii Thanks for the quick responses wrt my #3056 culturing question. To Eric Urquhart - I'm not at Princeton, that's just the Internet router that our system uses to connect to the rest of the world. I can check the local library, but am a bit skeptical that I'd find the reference you posted. You were absolutely right about not being able to detect the difference with the naked eye. Several HBD posts had mentioned that two types of colonies would be present, and that the larger would be S. Delbrueckii. Well, I've got some large and some small, but it seems that the sizes could be related to the either of the following phenomena: 1. The proximity of the colonies to one another on the plate, i.e. - ALL the colonies from the initial streak are smaller than those from subsequent streaks (2-4). If there is less food per colony, the colonies will be smaller, no? 2. Two different strains of different sizes (or replication rates) which show up as differently sized colonies on the plates. I believe Option 2 is the more commonly held opinion by Digesters. In its defense, there do seem to be a number of colonies which appear to have come from a single cell (They look round from the top, and like little yeast mountains from the side), I just wish I could tell the difference by some means other than diameter and height of mountain. I do have an old toy microscope which can enlarge to 600x. Will this help? I don't think its got any slides or covers, does anyone know where I can pick some up? As always, thanks for any and all help. -Chuck- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 09:55:26 EDT From: Sean J. Caron <CARONS at TBOSCH.dnet.ge.com> Subject: dogs, fleas & beer (wasn't that a folk group?) hi folks! i've been a little behind in reading my HBD's, so i dont know if this has been done to death, but... my 3yr old dalmatian has been taking brewers yeast/garlic pills all summer long for the past three summers. He's had a total of about 20 fleas in his lifetime (usually after he comes home from the kenel). My vet claims it's bunk, but i'm sticking with what works! Funny, though, he's never been especially enamoured of beer (mine or anybody else's). Hard to figure - he must take after my wife .... sean Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1992 11:51 EST From: Stuart Siegler <BAP$SS at LANDO.HNS.COM> Subject: Discolorization of Primary After Brewing my 1st beer (Continental Extra-Ultra Light) I noticed that my plastic primary (the unit that came with my starter kit ) was stained a light yellow-green. No amount of cleaning seems to help. I have tried clorox (soaked for a few hours in hot water) and B-Brite, also for a coupla hours. As a new-brewer, I am quit concerned with sanitation (this was highly stressed) Any ideas on how to get rid of these stains? Are the bad for the brewing beer just a normal result of brewing process? -Stuart Siegler (SSIEGLER at JABBA.HNS.COM or SCHWEEM at AOL.COM) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 9:33:31 EDT From: ncrcae!brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM (Jim Griggers) Subject: Good and bad malt, fittings In HBD 926 gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane) writes: ->It may also have something to do with the quality of the wheat ->malt. I wouldn't be surprised to hear that he uses the stuff from ->Briess, which I wouldn't feed to the ducks. I've used either the ->British or the German wheat malts to excellent effect; both are big ->fat grains (with no barley mixed in as has been the case in the past ->with Briess). Which brings me to a question about malt quality in general and Briess malt in particular. How good or bad is Briess barley malt compared to other brands of malt? How many brands of domestic malts are available? I am aware of Great Western Malting and Briess; how many others? Alternative Beverage in Charlotte, NC only carries Briess, and I doubt it is worth the expense of having 50# of malt shipped clear across the country just to have a slightly better quality malt. Another topic: Not only is South Carolina a beer wasteland, but a hardware wasteland as well. After searching most of the hardware stores and home improvement warehouses, I am still looking for a fitting that will connect a 3/4" FPT to a 1/4" vinyl hose. This is for connecting my 1/4" beer lines to a filter housing that has 3/4" connections. I was hoping to save some money over the filter kit offered by The Filter Store Plus, and besides, the fitting shown in their ad looks larger than 1/4". My Supervinyl hose from Superior won't stretch much bigger that 1/4". Jim Griggers * * * * * brew at devine.ColumbiaSC.NCR.COM * * 408 Timber Ridge Dr. * * West Columbia, SC * * * 29169 * * Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 11:06:21 CDT From: "Joe Dalsin" <joed at mozart.cbs.umn.edu> Subject: Advanced brewing advantages? Subject: Advanced brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? Sender: joed at mozart.cbs.umn.edu Organization: U of MN Herbarium Here's the scoop. I've been brewing now with extracts for about a year and a half. I've made a dozen or so batches of many tasty styles of brew. I've recently been thinking of getting more involved and move on to all grain brewing but I'm not really sure if it's worth the effort. I'll need lots of new equipment, more time dedication, etc. Those may even be advantages as I like the process and care of brewing but how much can I expect the quality of the beer to increase assuming it's properly done? Also, what are some good sources (books) to get started. I have been brewing exclusively from Papazian and a little self experimentation. Thanks in advanced for all opinions, experiences, flames, biases, misinformation and advice. Joe Dalsin University of Minnesota - Plant Biology joed at mozart.cbs.umn.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Jul 92 16:03:00 GMT From: mpl at pegasus.attmail.com Subject: Japanese Beetles My grapes used to suffer terribly from Japanese Beetles feasting on them. I bought one of those traps, and it stopped most of the problem, but I hated changing the bags full of dead beetles (which I had to do almost every day). I eventually wound up putting down a japanese beetle killing bacteria (made by Ringer, I think, although there are several brands available). It's non-toxic (only kill the japanese beetles), and, since it's a living organism, you only have to put it down ONCE (unless you put down something that kills it). I sprinkled it on the lawn around the grape vine and watered it in. In the 2 years since, I've seen maybe 2 or 3 japanese beetles on my grape vine. I have no messy bags to change, and I'm putting no chemicals on the grapes (or into the environment). This was one of the best $10 I ever spent. If you have japanese beetles bothering your hops, I highly recommend this stuff (I guess the downside is you have to put it down a year before it becomes effective - it kills the grubs over the winter, not the beetles in the summer). Mike (I have no connection with any bug killing product outside of software bugs) Lindner mikel at attmail.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 10:19:40 MDT From: mlh at cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall) Subject: Re: King Cooker Modification John Cotterill writes: >I use a propane powered King Kooker for my boils. The unit is great at getting >the water to the boiling point (10-15 min for 10 gallons). The problem that >I have, however, is once boiling, the heat needs to be reduced to prevent an >extremely vigorous boil. At low settings, the flame burns to rich and produces >lots of carbon on my boiler which is a pain to clean and very messy. I would >like to add a small burner ring to the cooker for low settings. Does anyone >know where I could locate a small ring (without buying a stove attached to >it)? Any other suggestions? I don't know anything about smaller burner rings, but here's a suggestion from my days as a Boy Scout: Coat the bottom of the brewpot with liquid soap (dishwashing liquid) before you brew. It will dry on the surface, and not cause any problems during cooking. The black soot will still accumulate on the pot, but the clean-up afterwards will be trivial. Water will dissolve the soap and the black soot will come off easily. Bar soap works okay, too, if you make sure that you rub a good coating over the whole bottom. Mike Hall Almost-Eagle Scout (no project :-( ) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 13:06 EDT From: tom at kalten.bach1.sai.com (Tom Kaltenbach) Subject: FREE! software for searching Homebrew Digest Over the past couple of weeks, I've written a PC program that might be of interest to homebrewers. The program is called THREAD, and its purpose is to search the back issues of the Homebrew Digest and extract those messages that follow a certain "thread" of conversation. THREAD attempts to do this by extracting all messages that contain specified key words; as a consequence, the program also functions as a general subject-searching program. For example, if you wanted to search for all messages related to kegging, you might use "kegging" as a key word (as I recently did). Logical combinations are also possible; for example, if you wanted all of the recent references to Jack Schmidling's MALT MILL, you could search for "malt" AND "mill" NOT "miller" (the NOT "miller" excludes the many references to Dave Miller's books). The key words are not limited to a single word, for example, you can search for messages mentioning "dave miller" OR "dave line". Up to 10 key word specifiers are allowed. THREAD operates on IBM PC or compatible 8088/80286/80386/80486 microcomputers running MS-DOS, so it does require that the digests are stored as ASCII text files in a directory on the PC hard disk. The program has been uploaded to the archives at sierra.stanford.edu, where it can be found in the /pub/homebrew directory. The files are listed below. Note that all the files are in ASCII format except for the binary executable, so you must set the file type appropriately in when transferring with ftp. thread.exe binary file, MS-DOS program executable thread.pas source code, written in Turbo Pascal 5.5/6.0 thread.uue uuencoded version of thread.exe, for those without ftp thread.doc documentation and program description Any comments, questions, or suggestions can be sent to me at the address below. If there is enough interest in a VAX/VMS version of the program, I may try to convert the source code into a VMS PASCAL version. Tom Kaltenbach tom at kalten.bach1.sai.com Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Jul 92 13:03:00 EDT From: Brett (R.B.) Buckingham <BRETTB at BNR.CA> Subject: re: PET bottles I used both 500mL and 1L PET bottles a few years ago with very good results. Although they may not be as appealing as a tall, proud beer bottle, they have a number of unique advantages. When you use a bottling wand to fill a PET bottle, the tip of the wand sits nicely in the dimples at the bottom. The flowing beer quickly fills the dimple and covers the tip of the wand, thereby helping to reduce aeration. Capping is a breeze; just twist them on snugly. Just before capping, I'd squeeze the bottle until the level of the beer was at the top of the bottle, then secure the cap. This left the bottle initially dimpled, but the headspace was purged of air. Checking the level of carbonation later on was as simple as squeezing the bottle. The dimples also served to hold the yeast sediment when the beer is decanted. Furthermore, plastic is safer than glass. My only concern with these bottles is that they are green, and if green plastic equates with green glass, this may result in light- struck (skunky) beer. I've also heard that oxygen can penetrate the plastic, but I don't buy it because of the pressure inside. Give them a try; they worked great for me. R. Brett Buckingham Hpsos development group Any opinions expressed brettb at bnr.ca Bell-Northern Research Ltd. are my own. (613)763-7273 P.O. Box 3511, Station "C" Ottawa, Ontario K1Y 4H7 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 12:15:19 -0600 From: copeland at calypso.atmos.colostate.edu (Jeff Copeland) Subject: Removing carbon from pot bottoms As John Cotterill wrote in HBD 932 >I use a propane powered King Kooker for my boils. >At low settings, the flame burns to rich and produces >lots of carbon on my boiler which is a pain to clean and very messy. An old camping trick to make blackened pots easy to clean is to coat the outsides with liquid dish soap before use. The carbon then rinses off. Jeff Copeland copeland at calypso.atmos.colostate.edu Atmospheric Science Colorado State University Ft Collins, CO 80523 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 11:18:26 PDT From: grumpy!cr at uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley) Subject: Buffalo Confusion From: gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) >Mike McNally said: >> All I can say is that the Hefeweizen from Twenty Tank was >> even worse. >Everything that Twenty Tank makes is even worse. >Bill Owens may deserve credit for getting the California microbrewing >industry off the ground, but his brewpubs make uniformly bad beer. Well, I hope that I'm not the 20th person to point this out, but...... There seems to be some confusion here. Bill Owens is not connected to 20 Tank. He has founded 3 brewpubs. 1. Buffalo Bill's in Hayward. The second brewpub in CA, third in the US since prohibition. Bert Grant in Yakima was first, and Mendocino in Hopland was second. Buffalo Bill's is still under Bill's control. 2. Brewpub on the Green in Fremont. Co-founded by Bill and John Rennels. Problems developed between Bill and John, and Bill left. John went thru several brewers, and the pub had its ups & downs. The investors flip flopped, and John is out and Bill is back. BP on the G is now under Bill's control again. 3. Bison Brewing in Berkeley. Bill ran Bison very poorly, things were in a dismal state. The brewery was on the verge of closing in April 1990, when Bill was ousted. Eric Frietag and Scott De Oca took over. Their beers are unusual, but the business is doing quite well now. Two brothers named John and Reid Martin have also founded three brewpubs. 1. Triple Rock in Berkeley. One of the first, very popular with the UC Crowd. A success from day one. 2. Big Time in Seattle. Spurred by the success of Triple Rock, one of the brothers founded a sister pub to the north. The two pubs are nearly identical in decor. Similarly, Big Time is popular with UW students. 3. Twenty Tank in San Francisco. Quite different from the other two. Urban industrial warehouse atmosphere, South of Market nightclubby crowd. Wear black. CR Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 15:02:57 EDT From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: St Arnouldus vs St. Gambrinus Ahem, not to refute your thoroughly interesting article on the breweries of Bruge, C.R., but the Czech name Gambrinus as the patron saint of brewers. Anyone got the low down, will the REAL patron saint of brewers please stand up??? JaH - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Hopfen und Malz, Gott erhalts Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 14:12:45 CDT From: johnf at persoft.com (John Freeborg) Subject: Great Taste Breweries & Kegs I've gottten several requests for a listing of the brewers that are coming to the Great Taste of the Midwest Beer Festival on August 22nd in Madison, WI. If you missed the last "press release" posting about it, just email me and I can throw it out again (wanted to save bandwidth here). Appleton Brewing Co. Boulevard Brewing Co. Broad Ripple Brewing Co. Cherryland Brewing Co. Detroit & Mackinac Brewing Co. Fox Classic Brewing Co. Goose Island Brewing Co. James Page Brewing Co. Kalamazoo Brewing Co. Leinenkugles Brewing Co. Pavichevich Brewing Co. Summit Brewing Co. August Schell Brewing Co. Brewmasters Pub Capital Brewing Co. Chicago Brewing Co. Fitzpatrick Brewing Co. Frankenmuth Brewing Co. Great Lakes Brewing Co. Joe's Brewing Co. Lakefront Brewing Co. Midcoast Brewing Co. Sprecher Brewing Co. Water Street Brewing Co. Someone on the net posted recently about BCI (Bev-Con International) in Bristol, Tennesse (800-284-9410). I ordered several items from them and am very impressed. I got a brand new dual-gauge regulator made by Cornelius Inc. for $36.50 from them. Plastic pinlock disconnects were $2.85. A thumb picnic tap ("cobra tap") was $4.85. They don't take MC/Visa however, but they do COD and will even accept a personal check for the COD via UPS. I live in Wisconsin and the stuff came in 2 days. They have lots of neat keg sizes and CO2 tanks cheap. - John - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- John Freeborg Software Engineer Persoft johnf at persoft.com 465 Science Dr. 608-273-6000 Madison, WI 53711 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 13:03:35 PDT From: rush at xanadu.llnl.gov (Alan Edwards) Subject: Re: Priming with honey I have heard a lot of people say they would like to use honey as a priming agent. I really don't see the advantage in this, for two reasons: 1) Honey takes an very long time to complete fermentation. 2) The amount of honey that you will need for priming will not significantly affect the flavor of the finished beer, unless you are making a very light beer. The object of priming, is to get a consistent carbonation level. And, in my case, I want this phase to complete as quickly as possible! If you prime with honey, you're carbonation level will change very slowly with time. If you correct for what you think is a low carbonation level (say after a week or so in the bottle) by adding more honey next time, you will have overcarbonated bottles if you wait several weeks to drink the beer. My suggestion is to just prime with glucose (the REAL name for corn sugar--Dextrose is a trade name). You will not negatively affect the flavor of the beer by using sugar in such small quantities. I'm risking getting flamed here, but I would also say that using gyle (wort) instead of sugar for priming is a waste of time--for purists only. You won't be able to taste the difference. (If you've done a subjective, side-by-side comparison on the same batch of beer and and found out otherwise, please post your results--I'd be very interested.) If you want a honey/mead-like flavor in your beer, then add a significant amount to the primary. (That "significant" amount will vary greatly depending upon the recipe and who you talk to.) Expect it to take several weeks to complete fermentation. These are, of course, just my humble opinions. By all means, experiment; and have fun. -Alan .------------------------------------. | Alan Edwards: rush at xanadu.llnl.gov | Ren & Stimpy in '92! | or: alan-edwards at llnl.gov | (No other REAL candidates are running!) `------------------------------------' Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 15:02 CDT From: ZLPAJGN%LUCCPUA.bitnet at UICVM.UIC.EDU Subject: gorman's lack of tact Dear Brewers While I'm not usually given to jumping on someone for stating their opinions, I must STRONGLY OBJECT to the type of attack levied by Bob Gorman against Jack in the last HBD. Aside from the fact that Mr. Gorman has exposed himself as a pompas ass, he has also unwittingly joined the ranks of the very brewers he criticizes by assuming that his taste buds are the final athority on the issue of what qualifies someone else's homebrew as good or bad. Worse, his level of attack (note that I did not use the word, "criticism," Bob) is at best sophomoric. Much can be said about Jack - indeed, much has!! But with responses like Gorman's, I as a novice homebrewer, will remain reluctant to share my products with fellow brewers for their "criticism" for fear that my efforts too will be deemed equivalent to excrement. No one, Bob, NO ONE! deserves that sort of comment, regardless of the quality of their efforts. Who deid and left you Brew Master? Sincerely, John G. Norton ZLPAJGN at LUCCPUA.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Jul 92 15:46:24 CDT From: RMOREAUX at oz.umb.ksu.edu Subject: Los Angeles Brew Pubs I will be visiting the San Fernando Valley in Los Angeles the first week in August. I would like information on some good brew pubs (if there are any in that area. Also if any body knows of any brew pubs in the Manhattan, Kansas area or Topeka, kansas area, the information would be greatly appreciated. No brew, like a homebrew! +--------------------------------+----------------------------------+ | Richard Moreaux :-) | rmoreaux at oz.umb.ksu.edu | | computer consultant | moreaux at ksuvm.ksu.edu | | Computer systems office | | | Kansas State University | | +--------------------------------+----------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 13:08 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: MICROMASHING To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling Subj: MICROMASHING In my tireless crusade to convert extract brewers to all grain "real brewers", I have developed a "Mr Wizard" type approach that not only teaches the fundamentals in a way a child can handle but provides a simple and easy way for "master brewers" to test new ideas and disprove old "momilies". MICROMASHING scales down a batch of beer to a size that can be handled in sauce pans, measuring cups and the kitchen stove. I have used the system to optimize the spacing between the rollers of the MALTMILL. I have used it to convince myself that decoction contributes zippo to extraction yield and to experiment with different infusion temperatures and adjunct contributions. As it only takes about an hour to do a "batch", several experiments can be conducted in single afternoon. Equipment required" small saucepan (500 ml beaker) funnel two inch diameter piece of window screen graduated measuring cup thermometer (100-200 F range) hydrometer (optional) balance (optional) The piece of window screen is pressed into the bottom of the funnel to create our lauter tun. The batch size is a scaled down from 10 lbs grain to produce 6 gallons of wort at a gravity of about 1.050. This comes to 60 gr. (2 oz) of malt and 300 ml of wort. If you don't have a balance, 60 gr of uncrushed pale malt is about 1/2 cup. We start by crushing the malt. You can use a blender, rolling pin, hammer, maltmill or do nothing at all as I did in one experiment. The yield from uncrushed malt was 1.005. I just had to do it. Pour the crushed malt in the saucepan or beaker and add 200 ml (1/2 cup) warm water. Stir this gently till thoroughly mixed. This is know as "doughing in". Heat this slowly to 155F, stirring constantly. The smaller the pan, the easier it is to control the temperature. Maintain this temperature for 15 minutes and stir frequently to distribute the heat. I use a beaker and drop it into a styrofoam block with a hole in it but only because I am trying to control it precisely. This step is know as "saccharification" and is the period during which enzymes are converting starch into sugar. If you want to add a touch of science here, put a drop of wort in a spoon and add a drop of iodine. After doughin, it turns black. After saccharification, it remains the same color as the iodine. This indicates that the starch has been converted. The next step is called "mashout". After 15 min at 155F, raise the temperature to 175F. Place the funnel in a tumbler or graduated cylinder. Stir the mash and dump it into the funnel. In your saucepan, bring 2 cups of water to a boil and add this to the mash in funnel as the level drops. Keep the water level above the grain level. This step is know as "sparging". You can stir gently to speed things up. When you have collected exactly 400 ml (1 1/2 cup) of wort, stop sparging. (When I say "exactly" I am referring to controlled experiments but if you are just trying to learn the process, nothing is critical.) If you simply want to know what you have done, cool the wort to room temp and measure the gravity. It should be around 1.040. If you don't have a hydrometer, a taste will leave no doubt about what you have done. You have just made your own malt extract. You are now an all grain brewer. To complete the task, the 400 ml should be boiled down to 300 ml to get the proper proportion. You can add a few hops pellets to get the full ambience if you like and there is nothing to keep you from adding yeast and fermenting it out. From a practical standpoint, you can save the wort and use it as starter for yeast or add to your next extract batch. You can also mix it back up with the spent grain, add some flour and yeast and bake a few loaves of beer bread. Have fun, js Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 16:31 CDT From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli) Subject: World's Greatest Generic Ale Funny, I tried some of the WORLD'S GREATEST GENERIC ALE. Granted, it was somewhat astringent/unbalanced due to a heavy-handed hop addition, but I detected no infection. Bitter? Yes. Infected? No. chris It's hard to interact in groups when you're omnipotent. "Q" Star Trek, Next Generation Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 18:02:37 PDT From: Mark N. Davis <mndavis at pbhya.PacBell.COM> Subject: Re: Priming with honey Steve Boege asks: > I am intersted in using honey as priming sugar. It seems to me that > this was discussed here recently. How much honey should be used to prime a > five gallon batch of beer? How should it be prepared? >From what I understand, honey is considered virtually 100% fermentable sugar. Given that fact, I assume that you would use equal quantities as you would corn sugar. As for preparation, same story as corn sugar. Just boil it up in a quart or so of water to sterilize it and dump it in. If for some reason, you don't feel that there are enough yeast nutrients left in your beer, then you might want to add a bit to supplement at this point, but its probaly not necessary for this small quantity of honey. Good luck and good drinking, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 92 18:20:32 PDT From: Mark N. Davis <mndavis at pbhya.PacBell.COM> Subject: Re: Sterile yeast starters Bob was discussing the creation of sterile wort for use as a yeast starter: > On the advice of a friend, I got a case of quart mason jars, boiled up 3 > gallons (in the end) of generic wort (3# liquid malt extract), and then > canned them in a pressure cooker. voila - several months (depending on > usage) pre-supply of sterile wort. What I've used as a standard yeast starter for the past 10 or so batches is much simpler, and apparently equally efficient. I just boil up 1 quart of water with 3 tablespoons corn sugar and 1/4 teaspoon of yeast nutrient, cool to 80'F, and pitch my dried yeast in a 1 gallon apple cider bottle. My airlock is nothing more than the metal bottle cap with a hole poked in it and some tin foil wrapped around it. My assumption is that there will be enough CO2 output from the start to ensure a one way airflow out of the bottle. The tinfoil just keeps airborne particles from falling through the hole, but is loose enough to allow CO2 to escape. Anyway, the results have been excellent. All of my brews are actively bubbling away by the morning after I pitch the yeast (which inevitably always occurs sometime past midnight, occasionally I miss extract brewing >:-), and I've never had an infection problem. It just seems to me that its not worth the hassle or expense of making sterile wort when I spend 10 minutes the day previous to brewing to make my quick starter. What I'm wondering is does anyone see a problem with my methodology? Am I just consistently lucky when it comes to lack of infection? Is my beer karma running short? Mark Return to table of contents
Date: 24 Jul 1992 22:24:42 -0400 (EDT) From: Neal.Raisman at UC.Edu (Neal A Raisman) Subject: scrumpy This is a recipe for a strong British cider called scrumpy. It is really strong. One glass and the world begins to glow. A second glass, makes it all go. 12# of mixed apples. Be sure they are clean and with no belmishes 1/2# raisins 1/2# raw meat 1 gal. water at 70 degrees tradition calls for bakers yeast but I recommend a champagne yeast Chop all ingredients. Then grind the apples and raisins. A food processor is helpful. Toss the ingredients into the water and stir. Add the yeast and seal the brew bucket with an airlock. Each day, stir the ingredients by swirling the ingredients in the closed bucket. After the first fermenta- tion slows, about 8-10 days, move to a secondary fermenter. If you like a dry cider, add a second dose of yeast to the secondary fermenter. Seal with an airlock. Let sit until it the fermentation slows to a very slow, almost imperceptable bubble. Move to a carboy to get out more of the particulates. Let it sit for about a week and bottle. The scrumpy will need to mature for about four months before you will want to even try it since it will give off a strong D unpleasant smell and almost vinegary taste. The longer it is allowed to mature, the better, smoother and drier it will get. It is wonderful served cold when mature. I have let it sit for a year and it is quqite fine. No fancy sign off here. Neal Raisman raismana at ucunix.san.uc.edu D and unpleasant smell and have an almost vinegary staste Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #933, 07/25/92