HOMEBREW Digest #938 Thu 30 July 1992

Digest #937 Digest #939

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Cleaning Brewheat Boiler (Brett Shorten)
  Re: Hop Pellets for Dry Hopping  (gkushmer)
  alt (Russ Gelinas)
  Sanitizing & wort priming from Micah Millspaw (BOB JONES)
  Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? (Richard Stueven)
  Re: Question on racking after chilling (Larry Barello)
  Siphoning and Wort Chillers (Thomas D. Feller)
  Wyeast strains (Raymond Taylor)
  Re: Bottling with yeast (korz)
  Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? (Ken Johnson)
  Cooler Lauter Tuns (Ruth Mazo Karras)
  Re: Connecting copper filter pipe to cooler-mashtun (P. Couch)
  sparging and time (PGRAHAME)

Send articles for __publication__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Archives are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) **Please do not send me requests for back issues!** *********(They will be silenty discarded!)********* **For Cat's Meow information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu**
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 18:02:58 EST From: Brett Shorten <s05bas at cc.uow.edu.au> Subject: Cleaning Brewheat Boiler I recently purchased a Cordon Brew brand Bruheat Boiler for mashing and boiling my beers. I dont know if it is sold in the US, but basically it is a plastic brew bucket fitted with thermostatically controlled heating element. I am quite happy with it so far (2 batches), but have one small problem. I cant seem to clean it very well, in particular the heating element, which already has quite a deposit of blackened malt (I assume) adhered to it. I would appreciate any tips on how to clean this piece of equipment. Thanks Brett Shorten Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 9:00:27 EDT From: gkushmer at Jade.Tufts.EDU Subject: Re: Hop Pellets for Dry Hopping >From: Mark N. Davis <mndavis at pbhya.PacBell.COM> >Finally, I tried a hop bag with pellets. Don't bother! The pellets are ground >fine enough to float right out of the hop bag and the results are simila to >pellets by themselves, except you get to go on a fishing expedition for the >empty hop bag. Using this method, I've dry hopped a few times and haven't really had this trouble of which you speak. Some of the ground hops might have gotten out of the bag, but the majority of them were definitely in there when I took out the bag. As for getting out the bag, I took the string part and jammed it between the rubber stopper and the carboy lip. This made two things easy - to remove the bag I just pull, and to remove the stopper I just pull. I used to worry about possible infection from this, but when you figure that there is a good deal of alcohol plus the level of hops in all this, the risk seems rather nominal. After all, I was more worried about the risk of infection from the hop pellets, unsterilized, being thrown in the wort. But through all of this, I've never seen my siphon clogged with hops from dry hopping. Maybe I'm lucky, or maybe I'm too relaxed to notice :-) - --gk Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 10:14:00 -0400 (EDT) From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: alt St.Stans contest calls for Alt entries. After tasting a Dab Alt on tap at the Sunset in Boston, I've been searching for an Alt recipe. It's unique malt flavor is what I remember most. It was also creamy. Anyone got an all-grain recipe for an Alt? On a similar note, I had some bottled Dab lager, light and dark, which had the same creamy effect, but without the malt kick. If I'm not mistaken, Dab is not revered in Germany; they're sort of a mass producer. But, in a side- by-side with Beck's (I did it), the Beck's comes out as the thin insipid mostly bland product it really is. YMMV,FWIW,IMHO..... RussG Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 1992 07:48 PDT From: BOB JONES <BJONES at NOVAX.llnl.gov> Subject: Sanitizing & wort priming from Micah Millspaw I've recently come across some cleaning solutions for my stainless equipment. The first is K O dyne it is an iodaphor type sanitzer and will work on all homebrewing type equipment, it kills just about everything that could screw up beer with a two minute contact time at 12 1/2 ppm and is FDA approved. The best part is that it is cheap, about $14 per gallon. The other cleaneris an MSR this is strictly for cleaning the stainless it contains phosphoric acid and is great for removing beer stone from your fermenters it sells for about $10 per gallon. I got this info and the stuff from a local dairy supply place, since the dairy people face similar problems as do brewers they are very knowledgable able SS equipment. So find a dairy supplier and pick their brains it may be worth the effort. ======================================================================= Wort priming, I have been freezing in a plastic jug some of the sweet wort from my mash to use for priming and or making up for fermentation losses. When I use the wort I thaw it out,boil it then add it into the secondary fermenter, seal the fermenter and let it carbonate. Its cheap easy and doesn't effect the flavour profile of the beer. Micah Millspaw 7/27/92 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 09:44:45 PDT From: gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) Subject: Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? In HBD #937, Walter Gude (whg at tellabs.com) speculates: > As of yet I'm still doing partial (1/3 of > sugars) mashes. I wouldn't be at all surprised if when I take the final > plunge (next fall?) that initially the quality of my brews goes down. Here's a data point: I brewed my first all-grain batch after brewing 21 extract batches. It was the best beer I had brewed up to that point, and they keep getting better (IMHO). > Given the same process from the point of the boil on, I've always felt > there are a lot of things you can screw up in the mash/sparge process > (bad crush, poor temp control, oversparging) that could potentially give > you a sorry wort. [...] > There's a lot of variable to get right. No arguing that. On the other hand, look at the amount of control you gain when you mash. You don't know what's in the extracts...corn sugar, cane sugar, hop varieties and amounts...who knows. With a full mash, you know exactly what's in your beer because it's all right in front of you. You and many others refer to the mashing process as "Advanced Brewing". In my opinion, that perpetuates the myth that mashing is an arcane and difficult process that novice brewers can't possibly do right. That's simply not true...ANYBODY can do it! All you need are a couple of extra plastic buckets* and maybe another 1.5 to 2 hours of brewing time, and you're set. (Oops...bad choice of words...you know what I mean. :-) Take the plunge! have fun gak 107/H/3&4 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 08:01:59 PDT From: polstra!larryba at uunet.UU.NET (Larry Barello) Subject: Re: Question on racking after chilling In HBD #937, Al Korz writes: >> One other question that occurs to me. What is the recommended procedure >>for dry-hopping in the secondary with pellet hops?. Are they added as is, or >>'dissolved' first? > >If you can get fresh leaf hops, use them. Leaf hops will float a lot longer >than pelletized hops and then allow you to siphon out from under them. In >either case, just toss the hops into the secondary (I just toss them into >the primary seven days or so before bottling for single-stage ferments). Siphoning under the floating leaf hops sounds like a drag to me. I use pellets with great success. I know when fermentation is *complete* when the pellet crud sinks to the bottom. Occasional agitation of the carboy (about once a day) will encourage the stuff to sink. Then I just rack in the normal way. Also, pellets are much easier to get into and out of the secondary. Cheers! - -- - ----- Larry Barello uunet!polstra!larryba Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 10:48:20 PDT From: thomasf at deschutes.ico.tek.com (Thomas D. Feller) Subject: Siphoning and Wort Chillers Thanks to everyone how sent me mail about my Cooler Lauter Tun. Once I get the thing built I will post what I learned. Now for my on the the subject, Due to water restriction here in Portland I decided to change the way I used my Wort chiller. Instead of putting the copper coils in the hot wort and passing cold water inside the chiller I put the chiller in a bucket of ice water and run the hot wort inside the chiller. I made a siphon rod out of 3/8 copper pipe with a cap in the end and a hole drilled about 3/4 in above the end so I would not pick up too much stuff off the bottom of the pot. Here the problem I got the siphon started OK but it never had a good flow. Yes I did pick up some hops but I stoped and cleaned everything out and still had bad flow. It took almost a hour to siphon about 4 gal.(I pour the rest in through a funnel and screen). Does anyone use this method? Does anyone have any ideas on how to make it flow better? Any better ideas on how the cool wort with the least amount of wasted water? Thanks Tom Feller Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 12:59:51 CDT From: Raymond Taylor <NU028463 at VM1.NoDak.EDU> Subject: Wyeast strains I've been using Wyeast liquid yeast cultures for a number of years and my brews have really improved as a result. They're great! I was wondering if anyone could give me an answer to a question that has been on my mind ever since I started brewing with Wyeast strains. Williams Brewing sells liquid yeast cultures that are produced by Wyeast but these are not identified by the standard Wyeast name or code number. What exactly is Williams Burton Ale Yeast? Is it Wyeast British Ale #1098? Is it Wyeast London Ale #1028? Could Burton Ale Yeast actually be a different "proprietary strain" produced by Wyeast exclusively for Williams Brewing?. I think Williams also sells a Wyeast produced English Ale... I have the same questions as above for this one. I have used the Burton Ale many times and really like this strain. THANKS IN ADVANCE!! Ray "Liberty" Taylor Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 14:02 CDT From: korz at ihpubj.att.com Subject: Re: Bottling with yeast Two batches I've done recently, have been quite high in gravity and I've had no problem with carbonation *without* adding yeast at bottling. One was an Imperial Stout with a measured OG of 1090 made with the yeast cultured from the dregs of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and the other was a Chimay clone with an OG of 1087 made with Wyeast Belgian Ale yeast. Other yeasts, however, may not do as well. I've read about adding yeast at pitching when brewing lagers that were bulk lagered at 33F for 3 months, but did not add yeast at bottling time to my 1074 OG Bock, but I only lagered that for 1 month at 45F before bottling. No problems with carbonation. This bock was made with Wyeast #2308 (Munich Lager) yeast. One *important* word of advice: I fermented the Chimay clone at 68F and it came out with a very pronounced banana aroma -- I strongly suggest fermenting at a lower temperature, say, 60F. Also, this yeast at 68F fermented very quickly for two days and then took a long time (two weeks) to finish. It's behavior may be similar at 60F. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 15:35:05 PDT From: kjohnson at argon.berkeley.edu (Ken Johnson) Subject: Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? If your beer quality goes down when switching to full mash beers, then you are lame. kj Return to table of contents
Date: 29 Jul 92 18:41:59 EST From: Ruth Mazo Karras <RKARRAS at PENNSAS.UPENN.EDU> Subject: Cooler Lauter Tuns I have been using the 5 gallon cylindrical Gott/Rubbermaid orange cooler as a lautertun with apparent good results. Rather than use the slotted copper tubing or window screen over a pipe to filter the wort from the grain, I have been setting a stainless steel steamer (one of those odd kitchen items that looks like a flower with petals that unfold to double the diameter and that has little 1/2" legs). It is just the right size to fit in the bottom of the cooler and when the grain is in a mesh nylon grain bag sitting on top of the steamer I suspect that I get a better filtering action than with the slotted tubes and with much less work/expense. Has anyone else tried this, and with what effect? Chris Karras (RKarras at PennSAS.UPenn.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 15:13:21 PDT From: ithaca!amber!phoebe at uunet.UU.NET (P. Couch) Subject: Re: Connecting copper filter pipe to cooler-mashtun I use faucet compression fittings on my cooler. I removed the original faucet and left a 1/2' hole. The false bottom was about 10 ft of slotted copper pipes and it goes to a 3/8' to 1/2' brass (pipe joint? I forgot the name) inside the cooler and on the outside, a 1/2' to 3/4' (pipe joint?) with a couple washers in between(to cover the hole), on the outside a plastic faucet (3/4') I got from Brewmasters (San Leandro), I didn't use a metal faucet because I didn't want to burn my hand at 170 while sparging. And Teflon tape in between All the pipes and joins and washers are from the hardware store under plumbing and are for standard kitchen faucets. I have used the mashtun a couple times and it doesn't leak. As for Extract versus All-Grain, I find that my All-grain brews are definitely cleaner, smoother with more complex chararacteristics. But the precedures are also different. I think that the basic All-Grain process (mash/sparge then hop at diferent time) makes better beer than the basic extract process (throw everything into the boil at different times), but with a little work, extract brewing can make beer just as good.IMHO. By the way, My Cascade(planted April 92) is full of giant cones and they are starting to smell good. The Nugget and the Mt Hood are coming along with a few burrs, but the Williamette is doing nothing. Thanks for all the replies/help. P. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 00:23 EDT From: PGRAHAME%BENTLEY.BITNET at mitvma.mit.edu Subject: sparging and time Brian Bliss, several digests back, writes that a normal sparge takes him two hours. My question for sparge adepts out there is this: Two hours!? It takes me no longer than 20 to 30 minutes to sparge 7 gallons of water at 170 F through 7 lbs of grain. I have followed Dave Line's instructions closely, and have done this a half a dozen times with consistent results and without any stuck or "set" sparges. This time frame allows for a very gentle and leisurely sprinkle, just enough to keep the water level a tad above the grain bed. So how can this process possibly take two hours? I note there is a shared interest out there in improving the overall time spent on all-grain brewing. Currently my best time from starting the mash to pitching the yeast is about ten hours. Sage comments on sparge time, refinements, invited. - --Peter Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #938, 07/30/92