HOMEBREW Digest #939 Fri 31 July 1992

Digest #938 Digest #940

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Open mouth, insert foot. (chris campanelli)
  Re: cleaning bruheat boiler (Andy Phillips)
  Reaching 300 ppm Sulfate (Greg_Habel)
  Micro Brewery Sampler, Boston, 5 Aug (Tom Luteran)
  Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? (James Dipalma)
  Re: Wyeast Strains (Raymond Taylor) (JLIDDIL)
  Re: sparging and time (Michael J. Gerard)
  Homebrew Digest #938 (July 30, 1992) (fwd) (John Freeman)
  Innovative lauter tuns (Norm Pyle)
  Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? (Richard Stueven)
  re: chillers (mcnally)
  Chimay yeast behavior (mcnally)
  Re: sparging and time (Jeff Benjamin)
  Wort Chilling Water Wastage (ALTENBACH)
  Brewing time (was Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it?) (Douglas DeMers)
  Dry Hopping with Hop Plugs (Patrick_Waara.WBST129)
  Canadian vs. U.S. beers (Patrick_Waara.WBST129)
  Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? (whg)
  Re:  Lame Comment (David Van Iderstine)
  Re: please resend (P. Couch)
  Re: Saving water with wort chiller (Mark N. Davis)
  Dry hoping, sparging and all grain brewing (BOB JONES)
  10%  (Jack Schmidling)
  Test message ("CMD 2NDLT ALBERT W. TAYLOR ")
  Mouth Feel (fjdobner)
  Re: Bruheat Cleaning & other (CCASTELL)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 20:40 CDT From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli) Subject: Open mouth, insert foot. Oh my. After reading my most recent posting, I feel that I may have been alittle too, shall we say, colorful? I agree with Mr. Gorman that a thread should not be drafted when the author is in an agitated state. I apologize to anyone who may have taken offense to the strong language. chris campanelli Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 10:01 GMT From: Andy Phillips <PHILLIPSA at LARS.AFRC.AC.UK> Subject: Re: cleaning bruheat boiler I've had a Bruheat boiler for about ten years, and it's been getting darker each time I use it. The malt (especially darker ones) seems to colour the plastic, and won't come out however hard I try to clean it. I just relax, don't worry and have a homebrew. The element is different. Burnt malt on the surface will probably shorten its life as it will retard heat transfer to the mash. The answer is to use a grain bag to contain the mash: this suspends the grains above the heater and you don't get the burnt bits stuck to it. Cordon Brew sell a bag designed specifically for the Bruheat. One disadvantage is that there is a "dead space" of about 3 litres below the bag, which means that you need more liquor to get a resonably stirrable mash, and consequently have to mash slightly longer - the thicker the mash, the higher the enzyme concentrations (??). You also have to make sure that the bag doesn't touch the element, otherwise you'll be cleaning bits of molten plastic off it and you need a new grain bag (as I did first time). With the grain bag, the element does get a bit of dried scum on it, but I can get mine reasonably clean with an old toothbrush. Cheers, Andy Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 07:30:54 edt From: Greg_Habel at DGC.ceo.dg.com Subject: Reaching 300 ppm Sulfate I will be brewing an ordinary Bitter and have read that you should aim for about 300 ppm sulfate to be true to style (according to Zymurgy special issue). Assuming I have 0 ppm sulfate in my water, how much Burton water salts should I add to obtain 300 ppm sulfate in 5 gallons? Are there forumlas to obtain the info? Thanks. Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 10:02:51 EDT From: Tom Luteran <toml at hpwargh.wal.hp.com> Subject: Micro Brewery Sampler, Boston, 5 Aug Hi! For those of you who are in the Boston/New England area: A local public radio station, WBUR (90.9), is sponsoring "A Brewers' Offering" Details: Date: 20 August 1992, 6-10 pm Location: 808 Commonwealth Ave, Boston, MA Directions: Near Boston University (BU) Bridge; T: Green line, BU-Central or BU-West stop. Brewers: approx. 24 microbreweries, approx. 70 beers, quantity limited by MA state laws. You will get 20 "tickets" for redemption at each brewer's booth for a 2-3 oz. sample (total: approx. 4-5 standard bottles). Additional tickets may be purchased for 5 cents each. Snacks: approx. 21 food vendors, unlimited Music: Live Jazz! Gift: 10 oz. Pilsner glass with event logo Legalities: ABSOLUTELY NO ONE UNDER 21 ADMITTED (no kids!!!) Cost: $30.00, to benefit WBUR Payment: Mastercard, Visa, or Check A confirmation letter will be sent out, you pick up the tickets at the door) TICKETS WILL NOT BE ON SALE AT THE DOOR!!! WBUR 630 Commonwealth Avenue Boston, MA 02215 (617) 353-3800 Hope to see you all there! Tom +----------------------------------------------------+ | Thomas Luteran | INTERNET address: | | Hewlett-Packard Company | toml at wal.hp.com | | Medical Products Group | HP TELNET: 1-290-3021 | | 175 Wyman Street | VOICE: (617) 290-3021 | | Waltham, MA. 02254-9030 | FAX: (617) 890-5451 | +----------------------------------------------------+ + Opinions presented above are my own & not necessarily those of my employer + Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 10:38:09 EDT From: dipalma at banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma) Subject: Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? Hi all, In HBD #937, Walter Gude (whg at tellabs.com) writes: > As of yet I'm still doing partial (1/3 of > sugars) mashes. I wouldn't be at all surprised if when I take the final > plunge (next fall?) that initially the quality of my brews goes down. > Given the same process from the point of the boil on, I've always felt > there are a lot of things you can screw up in the mash/sparge process > (bad crush, poor temp control, oversparging) that could potentially give > you a sorry wort. [...] > There's a lot of variable to get right. While there's a great deal of truth to that, no one who is considering moving to all-grain brewing should be intimidated by it. There is some additional knowledge involved in all-grain brewing, some new techniques to be mastered. However, it is not all that difficult, especially if a brewer is already doing partial mashes with significant amounts of grain. In your case Walter, where you are mashing grain for 1/3 of the fermentables in your brew, you are already closer to all-grain brewing than you believe. Before I "took the plunge", I took advantage of the tremendous wealth of information on mashing and sparging provided by our fellow HBDers. Another good source of information is Greg Noonan's book "Brewing Lager Beer", which contains detailed, easily understandable descriptions of the mashing and sparging processes (usual disclaimer regarding lack of commercial interest applies). I would encourage any brewer considering moving to all grain brewing to *educate* themselves first, poke through the HBD archives, read some of the literature. All-grain brewing is MUCH EASIER than many people believe. In my own case, I brewed my first all grain batch several months ago after 60-70 extract and partial mash batches. It was, IMHO, the best beer I ever made. Each of the subsequent six batches has been an improvement over the last. There's no turning back now, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 8:11:10 -0700 (MST) From: JLIDDIL at AZCC.Arizona.EDU Subject: Re: Wyeast Strains (Raymond Taylor) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 10:13:49 CDT From: Michael J. Gerard <mjgerard at eng.auburn.edu> Subject: Re: sparging and time Full-Name: Michael J. Gerard The last time I sparged it took around 1.5-2 hours... I think a lot of it has to do with how dense your filter bed is. I have played with the idea of moving the grain bag slightly. This would speed up the flow; I'm not sure what it would do to the sparge. I think it would speed things up. I used to spage without a lauder tun (just a bag and a collecter). I got good extracts percentage wise in 15-20 minutes but being scaled by 170 F water wasn't worth it. It's easier to sit and have a homebrew and watch the future homebrew trcikle away. I plan to try moving the sparge bag SLIGHTLY next time. I'll use an old recipe and see if I can speed up the flow but still get a high extract percentage. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 10:51:37 CDT From: jlf at palm.cray.com (John Freeman) Subject: Homebrew Digest #938 (July 30, 1992) (fwd) > Date: Wed, 29 Jul 92 15:35:05 PDT > From: kjohnson at argon.berkeley.edu (Ken Johnson) > Subject: Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? > > If your beer quality goes down when switching to full mash beers, then you > are lame. > > kj Then consider me lame. When I first started mashing, before I got some of the right equipment and technique, my beer was not an improvement over extract brewing. I had problems crushing malt, problems mashing, problems with sparging, problems with balancing hops, problems with yeast. It's a wonder I kept at it. Now, mashing seems easy. I've got better equipment - a Corona mill, a five gallon stainless steel pot, a wort chiller, a large burner, nested plastic sparge buckets (I call the Tower of Power). And I've done it off and on for nine years so I know which parts to worry about and which not to. I do a single temp infusion mash in a styrofoam cooler, I don't mashout, I don't recirculate sparge, I don't siphon off cold break. It takes me about four hours to make beer. As blasphemous as it sounds, there is more to life than making beer, and if it took me all day like some, I wouldn't do it. So, if someone is happy making extract beers, I don't see any problem with that. I'm not going to insist they make the investment in time and equipment to do full mash beers. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 07:55:39 MDT From: pyle at intellistor.com (Norm Pyle) Subject: Innovative lauter tuns Chris Karras (RKarras at PennSAS.UPenn.edu) writes: >I have been using the 5 gallon cylindrical Gott/Rubbermaid orange cooler as a >lautertun with apparent good results. Rather than use the slotted copper >tubing or window screen over a pipe to filter the wort from the grain, I have >been setting a stainless steel steamer (one of those odd kitchen items that >looks like a flower with petals that unfold to double the diameter and that >has little 1/2" legs). It is just the right size to fit in the bottom of the >cooler and when the grain is in a mesh nylon grain bag sitting on top of the >steamer I suspect that I get a better filtering action than with the slotted >tubes and with much less work/expense. > >Has anyone else tried this, and with what effect? I use this very same apparatus (the steamer) in a large bucket as my lauter tun. (high quality ascii graphics below) It expands to exactly the right diameter. I haven't used it in conjunction with the grain bag yet (I just bought my grain bag), but it seems to do the trick quite nicely as far as holding the grain above the bottom. The filtering action is fine. The only problem I've had is pouring ten pounds of grain from my mash tun (Bruheat) into this contraption without knocking the steamer crooked. This has resulted in a few pieces of grain coming through my outlet hose but never anything worse. \ bucket/ | | | | |^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| | | | grain bed | | | | | | steamer | |---------------| | | | + outlet hole with hose attached |_|___________|_| This is not earth shattering, but it does show that you don't have to go nuts buying expensive equipment to do full mashes. Now that I have a grain bag, I'd like to hear from others who've used it to mash and sparge straight out of a Bruheat or similar gadget. Problems? What grain/water ratios do you use (this seems to be a bone of contention between Bruheat and Dave Line)? The reason I'd like to do this is to avoid having to dump all that hot grain into a separate lauter tun. Comments and ideas to streamline the process are welcome. Norm Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 09:07:55 PDT From: gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) Subject: Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? In HBD #938, I omitted the footnote to: > All you need are a > couple of extra plastic buckets* * I use the "two-buckets-with-a-bunch-of-holes-in-the-bottom-of-one" lauter tun design...there are many others that work as well or better. gak 107/H/3&4 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 09:22:35 -0700 From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: re: chillers I may be strange, but I really enjoy the wort chiller debate. I need to understand how the "immersion chiller as makeshift flow-through chiller" actually works. I like to get my beer down to about 50 degrees (F) as quickly as possible. To do this, my calculations show that do drop my just-after-boiling five gallons of wort down to fifty degrees, I need to "mix" it with at least 42 gallons of ice water: Vc = (VbTb - VbTt) / (Tt - Tc) where Vc = chilled water volume, Vb is wort volume, Tc is chilled water temperature, Tb is wort temperature, and Tt is target temperature. Now, I don't have a 42 gallon bucket, and I don't know many people who do, so I just don't see how I could possibly use this setup to chill my wort. Now, if you're happy with chilling down to 80 degrees, you can do that with much less chilled water (about 12 gallons at 32 degrees). I don't have a refrigerator, so all my chilling has to be done with the chiller. For some time I've been using a sump pump to circulate water from a bucket of ice water through the chiller. I don't use much water this way, and I get the wort cold in about 45 minutes. Of course, I have to keep refreshing the ice in the bucket, and I find that about 4 7 pound bags from 7-11 do the trick. (When I'm not lazy I freeze the ice myself, but I'm usually lazy.) What temperatures do people normally shoot for when chilling? _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 09:25:12 -0700 From: mcnally at wsl.dec.com Subject: Chimay yeast behavior My experience with Chimay yeast is that it benefits from being roused. I swirl my fermentor every day. _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- Mike McNally mcnally at wsl.dec.com Digital Equipment Corporation Western Software Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 11:02:20 MDT From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Re: sparging and time > My question for sparge adepts out there is this: Two hours!? > It takes me no longer than 20 to 30 minutes to sparge 7 gallons of water > at 170 F through 7 lbs of grain. My question is this: 7 gallons!? That seems like an awful lot of water to sparge with for 7 gallons (on the order of 2x what it should be). My usual ration is one-half the number of gallons as you had pounds of grain (e.g., 4.5 gallons for 9 lbs of malt). What kind of gravity do you get out of the tap by the end? If the outflow isn't sweet any more, I stop sparging. But I agree, two hours is an awful long time to sparge. You can extend your sparge time significantly by doing a lot of recycling, but I've found the biggest factor to be the grind of the grain. My sparges were always sticking when I used the old coffee grinder at the local brew shop. Now that I have my Marcato mill, the sparge water drains through as fast as I can pour it. Sparge times are now down to 15-20 minutes. > Currently my best time from starting the mash to pitching the yeast is > about ten hours. Now that seems a little long. I have certainly done batches that took that long, but my basic procedure is now to about 6 hours (I can *almost* do one in the evening after work :-). Let's look at an idealized schedule: hours step ----- ---- (opt) .75 grind grain (can be done day before) 1.5 mash (step: 30m at 122F, 50m at 150F, 10m at 170F) .5 sparge .5 wait for wort to come to boil :-( 1.5 boil & hopping .5 cooling (immersion or counterflow chiller) (opt) 1.0 aquarium-pump aeration ----- 6.25 total time Even if you add "slop" time beyond the ideal schedule, it's still well below 10 hours. Eliminate grain-grinding and use splash aeration, and you're down below 5 hours! The key is to use "dead" time during the mash, boil, and cooling stages to clean up, heat your sparge water, etc. About halfway through the mash, I start my sparge water heating and sanitize sparging implements so that as soon as the mash is done I'm ready to go. During the boil, I sanitize my fermenter, clean up my mash and sparge stuff, prepare the chiller and such. Heck, I sometimes even vacuum the living room or mow the lawn during a brew session. And there's certainly time in there to drink a homebrew or two. - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at hpfcla.fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium." - T.S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 10:11 PDT From: ALTENBACH at CHERRY.llnl.gov Subject: Wort Chilling Water Wastage In HBD938 Tom Feller was concerned about wasting water during wort chilling. There is no need to waste any water while chilling your wort if you save the cooling water and recycle it for other uses. I use a counterflow chiller and collect 30 gallons of cooling water from a 10-gal batch, saving it in 5-gallon plastic water carboys. Then I use that water during the week for soaking fermenters, landscape watering, spa makeup, and other household chores. None is wasted. I also keep some filled carboys around as an earthquake emergency supply (recommended for CA brewers) in case my homebrew bottles are broken and I run out of beer. So chill out your wort with all the water you want, then recycle and relax. Tom Altenbach Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 10:24 PDT From: dougd at uts.amdahl.com (Douglas DeMers) Subject: Brewing time (was Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it?) In HBD #938, gak at wrs.com (Richard Stueven) writes: [...] >You and many others refer to the mashing process as "Advanced >Brewing". In my opinion, that perpetuates the myth that mashing is an >arcane and difficult process that novice brewers can't possibly do >right. That's simply not true...ANYBODY can do it! All you need are a >couple of extra plastic buckets* and maybe another 1.5 to 2 hours of >brewing time, and you're set. Having recently started all-grain mashing, thanks to the encouragement and help of members of this esteemed forum (special thanks to Martin Lodahl!) and The Draught Board (brewclub), I agree with all of what you say _except_ the time involved for all-grain. There are many, many factors which will affect the amount of additional time for all-grain brewing, so to state categorically that "only" another 2 hours time is required is unfair. A more accurate statement (IMO) would be that _at least_ 1.5 hours more of brewing time is required. Typical all-grain brewing from start to pitch for me has averaged around 6-7 hours. True, experience shows certain shortcuts and the things which can be done in parallel once the methodology and the process are understood. I'm still learning, too, with many great beers yet to be brewed and for me they'll be all-grain. To me, all-grain brewing is worth the additional time and trouble, but I'm always looking for ways to decrease the time involved while increasing the quality of my beers. The additional time required for all-grain brewing can be greatly affected by the mashing technique (is it infusion? step? or decoction mash?), the beer style (for example, a wheat beer will require a protein rest which is additional time), and the equipment the brewer has at his/her disposal. (For example, my "cajun cooker" can bring 5 gallons of sparge water to temperature in under five minutes!) A discussion concerning sparge time is already in progress elsewhere in this forum, and it certainly appears that sparge time varies wildly from brewer to brewer. As a personal aside, my time is more valuable than obtaining the maximum theoretical extract percentage, so I'd opt for using more malt rather than a 2 hour sparge! However, at the suggestion of Russ Wigglesworth (thanks, Russ!) I increased my sparge time from 20 to 40 minutes and was pleased with the results. Folks considering all-grain should definitely read _The Complete Handbook of Homebrewing_ (David Miller, 1988, Garden Way Publishing, Pownall Vermont, 248 pages) or _The Complete Joy of Home Brewing_, (Second Edition) by Charlie Papazian. Also, one of the _zymurgy_ special issues (probably the All-Grain Issue) has a "staggered brewing" article which I recall has some other time-saving hints. Here's my thumbnail time budget at the front-end of all-grain brewing, with things which can be done in parallel indented. Note also that in all-grain brewing, the boil time is often 90 or even 120 minutes. A maximum of 60 minute boil is highly recommended for extract brews, to keep carmelization to a minimum. crack grain 10-20 minutes (0 - buy pre-cracked) heat mash-in water 1-20 minutes (depends on equipment!) mash-in 3+ minutes (check/adjust Ph, etc.) protein rest 45 min. (depends on brew, most not needed.) raise to conversion temp. 5-15 minutes starch conversion 20-120 minutes. heat sparge water 5-30 minutes. mash-out 5-15 minutes sparge 20-120 minutes (sparge into the boiler) begin boil [... here we join the extract-only brewers ...] Quickest time would be to use pre-cracked grains in a single temperature infusion mash with a quick (20 minute) sparge. With my equipment, that would probably be around 1.5 hours additional. I'd recommend an all-grain-wannabe brewer get Miller's book (above) and try a partial mash or two, just to get the feel for the process. Then, if it feel right, jump right in! If not, don't feel bad. Remember that award-winning beers are brewed from all-grain, partial-mash, _and_ extract recipes. The important thing is to just brew it! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 13:19:12 PDT From: Patrick_Waara.WBST129 at xerox.com Subject: Dry Hopping with Hop Plugs I have a question regarding dry hopping with hop plugs. It seems the hop plugs are just a little too large to easily fit through the mouth of the carboy. In the past I have attempted to break the plug in two by working it back and forth in my hands, which is no easy task (and probably an infection risk). A knife did not seem to work too well either. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get the hop plug easily into the carboy? Thanks. ~Pat Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 13:22:10 PDT From: Patrick_Waara.WBST129 at xerox.com Subject: Canadian vs. U.S. beers This has been dicussed before, but I'm afraid I don't remember the details or whether it was definitively answer. Is the beer imported from Candada into the U.S. the same exact beer that is brewed in Canada for Canadian consumption. In particular, is the alcohol level the same. Does the answer vary depending on the brewery? If so, use Molson as an example. Thanks. ~Pat Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 11:38:09 CDT From: whg at tellabs.com Subject: Re: Advanced Brewing (NON-EXTRACT) worth it? I post the other day about my concerns in switching to all grain process. As I stated then, I've no doubt that I will eventually make much better beer doing a full mash then using strait extracts. However recieving replies like: > If your beer quality goes down when switching to full mash beers, then you > are lame. cause a f**k you kneejerk reaction. Somehow I thought this was a forum for discussion and exchange of ideas. I guess I was wrong. The point of my post was that I have been steadily progressing from all extract, to extract+specialty, to partial mash, and will probably "cross the line" soon. Each step (18 batches) I changed one thing at a time and have been able to keep a handle on what was good and what was not. All I'm trying to say is that maybe there is something to be said for getting the "boil forward" part of the process down before jumping in all the way. That my learning to crawl before you run might end of benefitting you in the long run. But then maybe I'm just lame :-). Walter Gude || whg at tellabs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 15:42:40 EDT From: localhost!davevi at uunet.UU.NET (David Van Iderstine) Subject: Re: Lame Comment Once again, someone on the net (in this case Ken Johnson) has proven that being able to type has little to do with being able to think. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 13:47:02 PDT From: ithaca!amber!phoebe at uunet.UU.NET (P. Couch) Subject: Re: please resend Someone stole my printout of the ST STAN brewing contest info! And I didn't save the mail mesg, could some kind soul please send me a copy! I will give you some beer! :) P. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 14:43:00 PDT From: Mark N. Davis <mndavis at pbhya.PacBell.COM> Subject: Re: Saving water with wort chiller ...deleted talk about wort chillers wasting water > > Does anyone use this method? Does anyone have any ideas on how to make it flow > better? Any better ideas on how the cool wort with the least amount of wasted > water? > I too use an immersion chiller, running cold tap water through copper coils immersed inside a bucket of hot wort. In addition, I live in the SF bay area, where water rationing has become a way of life (you easterners don't know how much you can take tap water for granted). To do my part, I no longer wash my car, I take shorter showers, and I've trained my blatter to hold its contents longer, for fewer flushings - except during homebrew quaffing >:-). But I'm talking brewing here. My solution for conserving water, while also cooling my wort rapidly, is to do the whole cooling process on the front lawn/desert. This is the only time that it gets watered at all (besides the semi-annual rainfall) so I don't at all feel guilty about letting the water run for 15-20 minutes. Look at it this way: If you don't force cool the wort and get an infected batch, then it goes down the drain anyhow, and you've wasted at least 5-7 gallons right there! In case anyone was wondering, aren't you afraid of having hot wort sitting out there in the great outdoors, with all those wild and crazy yeasties dancing in the air? My solution is to dump my brew kettle's contents into a 6 gallon plastic fermenter bucket, drop in the immersion chiller, and then to seal the lid on over the top, leaving only tiny cracks where the chiller's I/O tubes stick through. The plastic tops for these buckets are rather flexible making this an easy task. I also leave my wooden spoon and thermometer sealed inside, so that I don't have to sanitize them each time I want to stir and check the temp. What, there's no water for the Californian's to drink? Let them drink homebrew! Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 1992 08:10 PDT From: BOB JONES <BJONES at NOVAX.llnl.gov> Subject: Dry hoping, sparging and all grain brewing That I'd add another data point of a few recent topics. I tried dry hoping once with a couple of PVC pipes that had a lot of small holes drilled in them and plugs on each end. I filled the pipes with fresh flower hops and placed them in the carboy, hanging on a string. The pipes didn't sink well so next time I added a brass ball at the bottom of the tube to help it sink. Easy in, easy out. The results were less than perfect. My conclusion was that the hops really need to be LOOSE in the wort for best results. The operation was a success, the patient died. On the subject of sparging, I usually try to push my sparge time to 20-30 min. I have a pump on the output of the mash tun and I have to valve it down to restrict the flow. I don't personally believe that long sparges vs short sparges really makes a lot of difference in the resultant gravity or quality of the runoff. I believe there is a big difference in the grains we all get and the gravity per pound per gallon varies all over the map. I recently tried an experiment to prove this, but it didn't work so well. My start to finish times for grain brewing 10 gallon batchs is typically 4 1/2 hours. That includes setup, brewing and cleanup. I can't beleive someone would spent 10-12 hours brewing and continue to brew for very long. You marathon brewers out there need to do a little time and motion study and invest in some hardware to shorten your brew day. Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 08:52 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: 10% To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >FM (Russ Gelinas) > So when Jack talks of his WGB I always take it to be tongue-in-cheek and self-deprecating. If I've read Jack correctly over the past few months, I don't doubt he enjoys jabbing with his WGB comments because he knows how much it aggravates some of you! Thank your for pointing out the obvious to that 10% that just never seems to get it:) God I hate putting those stupid smilies in but maybe that is all they understand. However, I will not do it again. You just have to turn up the sense of humor gain. >From: bob at rsi.com (Bob Gorman) >So, I'd like to apologize, first to Jack. I accept, just keep that gain turned up. >From: homebrew at tso.uc.EDU (Ed Westemeier) >Subject: Lauter tuns & hop drying >For the past year, I've been using a variation of the Phil's Sparging System, by Listermann Mfg. Co. They advertise in _Zymurgy_ and the products (like Phil's Philler) are available in many homebrew retail outlets. >Besides the basic system using two plastic buckets, assorted tubing and fittings, sparging sprinkler and perforated plastic plate, As a reluctant critic of someone else's pride and joy, I refrained from asking Phill an obvious question when he demonstrated his Sparging System to me in Milwaukee. However, I am less reluctant about posing the question to the readers of the Digest. It is generally agreed that the most efficient method of sparging is to maintain a cover of water over the grain on the order of a half inch or more. For those not familiar with Phil's system, it has a rotating sprinkler gadget that causes the wort to fall on the mash in a circular pattern. If a layer of water is maintained above the grain, this whole contraption serves no purpose whatsoever. Pouring the water into a shallow bowl nestled in the grain and just below the water level, is just as effective in distributing the water in addition to being free. What am I missing? js Return to table of contents
Date: 30 Jul 92 19:13:00 EST From: "CMD 2NDLT ALBERT W. TAYLOR " <S94TAYLOR at usuhsb.ucc.usuhs.nnmc.navy.mil> Subject: Test message Please ignore this message and have another homebrew-Al Taylor Return to table of contents
Date: 26 Jul 92 10:16:00 EST From: "CMD 2NDLT ALBERT W. TAYLOR " <S94TAYLOR at usuhsb.ucc.usuhs.nnmc.navy.mil> Subject: PET Bottles >From what I understand, the "run-of-the-mill" plastic soda bottles ARE made of PET. These bottles can be reused without incident, speaking from experience. I even used the old caps. One distinct advantage I can see it that the plastic doesn't seem to absorb odors much. Another is that you can continually monitor carbonation levels, just be giving the bottles a squeeze. No problem with the reused caps withstanding the pressure, I have found. The bottles themselves can withstand pressures in excess of 120 PSI. To collect the bottles, I posted a contest on my system's bulletin board offering full bottle of homebrew from the current batch to the person donating the most bottles. Such an approach also serves to get people to pay attention to recycling the bottles. That's what I did with the leftovers. Give it a try! Al Taylor, MS-III Uniformed Services University, School of Medicine, Bethesda, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 21:54 CDT From: fjdobner at ihlpb.att.com Subject: Mouth Feel Beer Evaluators, I read the article from the Summer isue of Zymurgy by Michael Tierney on carbonation in beer titled "From Carboy to Beer Glass: A Note on Froth." A very interesting article that I am sure to read many more times. One fact he mentions in his article is that mouth feel is the word that professionals give to a properly carbontated beer that tingles on the tongue a little. My interpretation of mouth feel up to this point was more a measure of body. My question is: does mouth feel refer only to carbonation and its sensation? Frank Dobner Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 92 16:38 From: sherpa2!CCASTELL.ELDEC%mailsrv2 at sunup.West.Sun.COM (CCASTELL) Subject: Re: Bruheat Cleaning & other Brett asked how to clean a Bruheat heating element. First off, its a lot easier to clean if you remove the element from the "kettle". Brillo does a fair job, but the best thing I've found is the copper pot scrubbers available at most supermarkets. If you clean it up after every use with the pot scrubber, it shouldn't take more than 30 seconds or so (brillo used to take me 5-10 minutes!). Be careful when you remove the heating element not to damage the rubber (?) washer. You'll have to remove the washer to clean the element, but I've had a good deal of trouble with that. Experience has shown my washers only have a lifetime of 10 batches or so. Of course the local homebrew store doesn't carry spares (even though they sell the bruheat), and plumbing places have not been helpful. You don't really need the washer to create a good seal. It IS important as an insulator for the thermostat. When I tried not using a washer, I couldn't get the darn thing to boil! (Now I'm using a homemade cardboard washer and am having no problems at all!) Someone wrote an article in Zymurgy a few years back about the care and feeding of the Bruheat. He always started each batch by boiling a bleach solution, then running that through his wort chiller. I never saw the need to be overly concerned about sanitizing something I'm going to be boiling in, so I don't boil bleach in the kettle. (Of course the wort chiller should be sanitized as best as possible.) Ken Johnson writes: > If your beer quality goes down when switching to full mash beers, then you > are lame. I think that might be a little harsh. There are several variables to be concerned with when you make the step to all-grain brewing that aren't a concern to extract (and partial mash) brewers. First, your equipment. If you're brewing on the stove, and you have an electric stove, its a lot of work to keep the proper temperatures. (See the Zymurgy special issue on all-grain brewing. Ekhart shows a log where he's having to change his settings every minute or so. Hardly my idea of relaxing and having a homebrew.) Another important consideration is your water. Sure, there is information available on how to properly prepare your mash water, but it is something an extract brewer hasn't been concerned about. Then, of course, there's the time element. When doing an extract brew (or all-grain when you get to the boil), you can pretty much ignore what's going on and attend to other pressing needs (having a homebrew, changing diapers, or whatever). When making an all-grain batch, you're committed to a longer time period, and since temperature is pretty critical, it demands more of your attention. That's fine if you have the time. Unless you've read a bunch about all-grain brewing, or helped somebody else do it, I think it is very possible that you might have a slight degradation in quality for your first few batches as you come up the learning curve. For a professional brewer to experience these problems, I think maybe the term "lame" applies, but for the casual homebrewer, I don't think I'd consider someone "lame" just for experiencing a learning curve. (There seems to be a presumption that there are no beer styles that are adequately represented by extracts. Granted, you can produce an infinite variety of styles if you use all-grain, but I dare say there are some styles that can be done quite well using extracts, possibly with specialty grains or partial mashes. If this were not the case, there would be NO medal winners using extracts. Probably the majority of the medals are won by all-grain, but the fact that some folks are still placing with extracts would lead me to believe that you can still brew some fine beers from cans/powders.) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #939, 07/31/92