HOMEBREW Digest #959 Tue 01 September 1992

Digest #958 Digest #960

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Importing plant species/corn brewing (Aaron Birenboim)
  When to measure SG and what to include? (Rob Bradley)
  Cajun Cooker Enclosure (C.R. Saikley)
  San Antonio: Beer, Music, Food (JIM MCNUTT)
  Sanitizing Bottles.. (7226 Lacroix)
  Fruit crushers/presses for cider--suppliers (Nick Cuccia)
  Storage of bleach solutions (Conn Copas)
  sanitation and questions (CHUCKM)
  Another request (Guy D. McConnell)
  recipe wanted (andre vignos)
  Toronto bound (andre vignos)
  Starting siphons (SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42)
  New Jersey brewbubs (Kevin V Martin)
  using fruit juices in ale (jay marshall 283-5903)
  Bring Back Beer from Afar (Joe Rolfe)
  You win, Lumps (Jack Schmidling)
  Oktoberfest, priming & siphoning (Jeff Mizener)
  CT Brewery List - Thanks!!!!! (wiehn)
  wooden kegs ("Stephen G. Pimentel")
  Re: Priming (John DeCarlo)
  Re: Label the bottlecaps instead (John DeCarlo)
  Re: Question on cooling with ice (John DeCarlo)
  Extract quality (Tim P McNerney)
  mashing in a jacket (and tie) (Chuck Cox)
  SG temp. adjustments (Bryan Gros)
  a different kind of fermentation (Frank Tutzauer)
  keg priming (Frank Tutzauer)
  Re: Airstat in a freezer? (Larry Barello)
  Re: Marcato Marga Mullino (Jay Hersh)
  Re:  chicago area homebrew suppliers (whg)
  Bacteria on the Hands (SLK6P)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 15:13:15 MDT From: abirenbo at rigel.cel.scg.hac.com (Aaron Birenboim) Subject: Importing plant species/corn brewing Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing Subject: Importing of plant species Summary: how do i find out if this is legal? Expires: Sender: Followup-To: Distribution: Organization: Hughes Aircraft Colorado Engineering Labs Keywords: This is a bit off the subject, but i do not know where to go. My mother just returned from Peru, and at my request brought back some of their odd corn varieties. One of which is a special corn they grow to ferment, which has large kernels. I am thinking about planting some next spring, and emulating their recipe, which unfortunately is sketchy. 1) soak and drain the corn 2) re-fill with water 3) cook for a while 4) add honey 5) let ferment spontaneously Well... i do not want to introduce some kind of incredibly nasty weed to the continent, so how can i find out if this is OK? Also... for you o-chem, bio-chem gurus: can corn be converted by boiling, or do i need a warm temp rest like barley. Do you think that there may have been a germination period between the soaking and the cooking? My mom's friend will return to peru for x-mas. At that time he can get me some of the famed "chicha morada" purple corn, that they use there for making a yummy cool-aid like drink. Just boil the whole purple corn cobs for a while, and add sugar. (use the corn like tea bags) I have had this chicha morada in LA, and it was quite good. I also hear that there is a fermented chicha morada beverage, which i will try to emulate. The only think i know about chicha morada is from the article that somebody posted here or to HBD about a guy who went into the indian territories of peru. i think it was published in outside or something. aaron Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 18:44:24 -0400 From: bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Rob Bradley) Subject: When to measure SG and what to include? In HBD #957, Jack talks about when to measure SG and sez: >...If you measure it after the boil, use the volume after the boil and >be sure to include the trub left in the bottom of the kettle in the volume. Any other opinions? I've always done what Jack says, but I'm never sure if it's right. Specifically: - the trub is in solution before the cold break and in suspension after, right? - stuff in suspension doesn't affect SG readings, right? (E.g. throwing wood chips or marbles into wort wouldn't change the hydrometer reading.) - Does stuff in suspension take up more room than stuff in solution? - If the answer to the last on is `yes', then doesn't it mean that pre-boil SG is different from post-boil SG, whether you include the trub volume or not? Only wondering. Wish I remembered more of my pchem. Cheers, Rob (bradley at adx.adelphi.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 92 12:07:59 PDT From: grumpy!cr at uunet.UU.NET (C.R. Saikley) Subject: Cajun Cooker Enclosure Sometime back, Phil Miller asked : >How long can I expect a standard tank of propane to last if I use >a Cajun Cooker type burner to heat my wort for boiling (i.e., rocket >blast mode to bring 5-6 gallons to a boil and then idle mode to >maintain a vigorous boil for 1 1/2 hours)? About two years ago, Kinney Baughman introduced me to the Cajun Cooker/ Bunsen Burner from Hell. In the intervening time I've worked out a way to get more mileage out of my propane tank. It was a bit of a project, but I enjoyed it. The first time I used it, I was brewing outside on a windy day. When Alexandra peered out of a second story window, she was shocked to see the entire garden shimmering from the heat. Being a master of the obvious, I deduced that too much heat was going into the garden, and not enough into the beer. At the end of the brew day, my just filled 20 lb propane tank was 75-80% consumed. I decided to try to improve my efficiency, and seeking inspiration took a quick look at industrial boiler designs. A common design for high efficiency entails enclosing the kettle in an outer jacket, and putting the flame between the two. Further enhancements include adding intake vents at the bottom, directing the intake gasses thru the center of the flame and not around it, and providing an exhaust vent at the top. So I went to my friendly neighborhood homebrew supply shop (Oak Barrel in Berkeley) to get one of these. What I came home with was an empty 55 gallon drum - malt extract of course. >From this, I fashioned an enclosure with the afore mentioned vents and manifolds, added holes for a gas line in and a wort line out, and installed a door for easy access to the inside. The entire boiler assembly, kettle (Bud keg), burner, support/manifold, rests inside the 55 gallon drum. Overall, I'm very happy with the results. The flames are protected from the elements, and heat transfer is greatly improved (ie the garden no longer shimmers). I now get 4-5 brew sessions (heat mash water, heat sparge water, 1 1/2 hour boil) on a single fill. As an added benefit, some of the jet engine noise is muffled. One of these days I'll get around to modifying those 45 gallon double jacketed tanks in my back yard. Cheers, CR Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 09:48:08 EDT From: JIM MCNUTT <INJM%MCGILLB.bitnet at VM1.MCGILL.CA> Subject: San Antonio: Beer, Music, Food I'm going to be in San Antonio, TX for a week in mid November. I under- stand that there are no brewpubs in Texas. I like to drink good beer, listen to good stomping music, and eat good local food. If you have any advice re: these items in San Antonio, please drop me an e-mail directly. I don't always have time to read everything in HBD. Thanks. Have fun. Jim McNutt Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 09:11:48 MDT From: stevel at chs.com (7226 Lacroix) Subject: Sanitizing Bottles.. My method for what it's worth...I wash out my bottles immediately after pouring the contents into my glass (except the ones I scrounge from the recycle bins around my house). Next, I throw them in with all the other dishes currently in the dishwasher and wash them before storing. When it's time to bottle, I bring them out, shoot them with a bottle washer (read invaluable tool). I run my dishwasher empty and about half way through the cycle, open the door and dump a little household bleach in it to clean the inside. Next I load the bottles into it and run it. Again about half way through the cycle, I open the door and dump a little bleach in. Finally, I let the heating element dry the bottles. I don't open the dishwasher until I'm ready to fill the first bottle. I've got a fairly efficient bottling system (and a good brew partner), IMHO, and from dishwasher to capper is a snap...so the bottom line is I've never had any problems with infection since I started using this technique. This may not be for everybody (like people living in water restricted areas, but slight modifications might work) but it seems to work for me. Now a question... Why in the H am I getting low hydrometer readings on extract brews?? Am I just *lame* or what?? (no I haven't ruled out that possibility). The instructions that came with the meter are pretty simple, but the OG always seems to be low. The info in Line's BB of B (those formulas on page 149, I think) seem to produce the expected OGs, but who knows. I check the meter in 60F H20 and it is fine...I read a recent posting about problem readings so this isn't just my imagination (but then again the 60's were...). Any thoughts?Thanks in advance for any opinions or enlightenment. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 12:09:52 -0700 From: Nick Cuccia <cuccia at remarque.berkeley.edu> Subject: Fruit crushers/presses for cider--suppliers This is in response to Chis Campanelli's request for suppliers of fruit crushing and pressing equipment that would be appropriate for cider making. My list is basically formatted as follows: Supplier Address Phone Number(s) Supplies Price Note that since I haven't dealt with many of these vendors, inclusion in this list does not constitute an endorsement; it just means that I have their catalog handy. If you have any additions, post them! - --Nick - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Beer and Wine Hobby 180 New Boston Street, Rear, Woburn, MA 01801-6206 (Mail order: PO Box 3104, Wakefield, MA 01880-0772 617/933 8818 800/523-5423 617/662-0872 (fax) Presses and Crushers $115 and up--CALL FOR DETAILS; STOCKED DURING AUG/SEP/OCT ONLY! Jim's 5c Homebrew 2619 N. Division Spokane, WA 99207 509/328 4850 800/326 7769 Plastic wine press $98.50 Wooden presses CALL Brewmaster 2315 Verna Court San Leandro, CA 94577 510/351 8920 800/288 8922 510/351 4090 (fax) Plastic fruit press $95.00 Grape press (#15-#55) $135.00-$600.00 Apple crusher $210.00-$240.00 Semplex of USA 4159 Thomas Avenue North Minneapolis, MN 55412 612/ 522 0500 Plastic fruit press $99.50 Pulpmaster (pulps apples, $24.95 attaches to bucket & drill) Wine Hobby USA 2306 West Newport Pike Stanton, DE 19804 302/998 8303 Fruit Crusher (wood) $89.00 9x11 Fruit Press, wood handle $89.99 9x11 Fruit Press, metal handle $98.00 Plastic fruit press $79.95 14x14 Fruit Press $229.95 (Other models and sizes available on a special order basis) The Cellar PO Box 33525 14411 Greenwood Ave. North Seattle, WA 98133 206/365 7600 206/365 7677 (fax) Apple Mill (comb. crusher&press) $575.00 Small fruit crusher $99.00 Plastic wine press $98.95 Wine basket presses $289.00-$529.00 The following also carries crushers and presses, but lists them in their wine, cider, and mead supplies catalog: Great Fermentations of Santa Rosa 840 Piner Road #14 Santa Rosa, CA 95403 707/544 2520 (advice line) 800/544 1867 (orders) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 92 21:48:25 BST From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at lut.ac.uk> Subject: Storage of bleach solutions A number of texts say that re-use of bleach solutions is not advisable, whereas it is OK for sulphite up to 3 weeks. Is this suggesting that chlorine degrades with time, even in a sealed container? - -- Loughborough University of Technology tel : (0509)263171 ext 4164 Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre fax : (0509)610815 Leicestershire LE11 3TU e-mail - (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut G Britain (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk Return to table of contents
Date: 31 Aug 92 08:33:34 EDT From: CHUCKM at CSG3.Prime.COM Subject: sanitation and questions Hi everyone... I have a couple of questions and a few thoughts (about brewing) 1. What is the difference between aeration and oxydation? 2. Re: Sanitation.... How do the breweries handle this? Do they ever get bad batches that they must dump or do they have some magic way of salvaging.... Some brewers use open fermenters (Anchor, Pilsner Urquell, etc). Why don't they have sanitary problems. I would never think of fermenting in the open, but Pilsner Urquell does it in caves with no apparent problems.... Any comments? 3. How is alpha acid content measured and Can I easily do it at home for my home grown hops. Will the AA content of homegrown hops vary significantly from the published ranges for a given species. Thanks in advance.... chuckm Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 9:00:36 CDT From: guy at mspe5.b11.ingr.com (Guy D. McConnell) Subject: Another request Jon Binkley writes: > Just a friendly reminder that some of us read the Digest on > antiquated equipment. My piece of sh** terminal, for example, > doesn't even wrap lines properly, so any line over 80 chars. > is hopelessly garbled. I missed much of two very interesting > articles in today's digest. Also, with the Digest now being over 1000 lines virtually every day , I think it prudent to remind everyone to try and shorten their signature files to a line or two. With so many articles every day, signature lines make up a significant part of the total bandwidth. For what it's worth... - -- Guy McConnell guy at mspe5.b11.ingr.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 10:22:11 EDT From: andre vignos <andre at Think.COM> Subject: recipe wanted The last time I was in germany, the 1986 octoberfest, I stopped up in Bamberg Germany to pick up a friend who was stationed there. We stayed a couple nights in the area and sampled some quality brew. There was one type that I absolutely loved but I have never seen any bottled form of it, much less a brewpub that serves it. It is served with a thin lemon slice in a pilsner glass and is a wheat beer known as "crystalweissen". Being german I understand what the name means(doesn't take a genious). What I was wondering was, does any body have a recipe for said beer? -Andre Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 10:44:59 EDT From: andre vignos <andre at Think.COM> Subject: Toronto bound I'm going to toronto next week and am looking for some good beer to drink, preferably at a brew pub, but I'm willing to try some bottled varieties. -Andre Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 08:41:01 pdt From: SCHREMPP_MIKE/HP4200_42 at pollux.svale.hp.com Subject: Starting siphons I read this trick in the digest a long time ago and it works well for me... 1. Put a short piece of sanitized hose (or plastic tube) on the "out" end of your siphon. 2. Put the "in" end of your siphon in the wort. 3. Lift up a bunch of the siphon hose and suck a bunch of wort into the tube, but not enough to get "over the hump" and into your dirty mouth. 4. Drop the filled siphon hose so it is below the level in the carboy, but keep the "out" end up high. Pull of the dirty piece from step 1. Your siphon is ready to run. I also use a plastic cane at both ends of my siphon hose. It makes handling the thing much easier. See Below... ))))))))))))) _ )))))))))))))))\ / \ <--- Cane #1 )))))))))))) | / h ))))))))/ \)) | / h )))))))| C <_0 / h <-- Flexible hose (fill to here) ))))))) \ \ / h __ ))))))) U \ / h / \ <-- Cane #2 )))))) c__) / h h | ))))) | h h h | )))) \---hh h -|- | \ \ \_Removable | | | | \______/ Hose ___/ | \___ | | / | \ | > | | | | | |^^^^^^|^^^^^^| | | | <-- Carboy | | | | | | | | |_____________| "STARTING THE SIPHON - STEP 1" ))))))))))))) )))))))))))))))\ )))))))))))) | ))))))))/ \)) | )))))))| C <_0 /---- Stop sucking! ))))))) \ \ / __ ))))))) U \ / / \ <-- Cane #2 )))))) c__) / h | ))))) | <---/ h | )))) \---hh h h -|- | \ \ h h | | | | \______/ \ h ___/ | \___ | | \ h / | \ | > \ h | | | | | /--> \ h |^^^^^^|^^^^^^| / \ h | | | <-- Carboy / \ h | | / \_/ | | Fluid is now to here | | | | |_____________| Anyone want me to illustrate a book? Mike Schrempp Beer is fun, beer is good If you don't like mine... You're a lame piece of wood. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 12:59:28 EDT From: Kevin V Martin <kmartin at magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Subject: New Jersey brewbubs Does anyone have a list of brewpubs and/or good drinking bars in the Southern New Jersey or Philadelphia areas? I know this has been asked before, but I didn't save the info ;). Thanks, Kevin Martin Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 11:18:21 CDT From: jay marshall 283-5903 <marshall at sweetpea.jsc.nasa.gov> Subject: using fruit juices in ale I would like to make a cherry ale and thought that I had heard someone say that you could get pasteurized cherries at the local Whole Foods. When I went to check it out, all I could find was 100% cherry juice. I was going to use about 5 lbs of cherries for a 5 gallon batch. If I were to use this cherry juice instead, how much would be approximately equivalent? Has anyone out there used the juice before? Also, are there any clarifying agents needed when you use fruits (or juice) in beer? I was going to add this to the secondary for a week or so... thanks Jay Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 13:24:19 EDT From: Joe Rolfe <jdr at wang.com> Subject: Bring Back Beer from Afar hi all one method a friend in Canada uses - very well to boot - is to declare all bottles as Yeast Samples - for lab purposes, not for consumption. to really do this you have to remove the labels (relable with coded - home brew type to keep them identifiable) and add the yeast sample not for human consumption lab crap. this friend makes trips to/from the US/Canada and Europe amonst others and has never had any trouble. i would investigate the exact rule that allows this type of duty free transfer - to expunge it upon the customs people. if you seem to know what your talking about they leave you alone... just another data point joe rolfe Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 08:48 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: You win, Lumps To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: jdsgeoac at typhoon (Karen Jdsgeoac Hyrum GEOACOUSTIC) >Subject: Brewing Disaster >Then disaster...The wash tub broke off the wall, landed on his foot, and spilled its contnents. The wort/water mix quickly found the stairs and ended up in the family room. The builder had molly bolted the wash tub to the wall and counted on the plastic pipe to hold the weight. >This certainly was not a "Easy chill Method". Has anyone had a worse first brewing experiance? I think you win and possibly for an alltime brewing experience. >From: stevie at spss.com >Subject: WHO IS WHO IN CHICAGO? A response. I think I had enough fun with this just to let it drop. Suffice it to say that I took my lumps from my Milwaukee beer and thank those who defended it and grin at those who trashed it. And yes, "conspiracy" is a fun trigger word and all I can say from the reaction is that it was either a lousy joke or a totally ineffective conspiracy... take your pick. js Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 15:05:27 EDT From: avalon!jm at siemens.siemens.com (Jeff Mizener) Subject: Oktoberfest, priming & siphoning First, travel question: When is Oktoberfest (the one in Munich)? Other stuff: I've had the bubbles-form-at-the-intersection-of-the-racking-tube-and- siphon-hose blues for some time now. I have used tiny hose clamps, cable ties (Ty-Wraps) and heavy twist ties to try to get a seal. The cable tie works well but costs a cable tie per batch. Does anyone have a reusable solution? We seem to have a lot of chemists out there... I know that the problem is caused by a siphon hose that's slightly too large, caused by what we in industry politely call "production tolerances". The tiny hose clamps work pretty well if you put them where the racking tube is _straight_. Any suggestions? When people bulk prime, they add (something sweet) to the beer in the fermenter. Then they presumably stir it up. Which causes all sorts of gunk to be stirred up from the bottom. Do we all solve this problem by racking first to another container? (Primary > secondary > priming vessel?) Or what? Neat idea for starting siphons: At my local homebrew dealer I saw a little pump humming away attached to a tube that went down inside a little 'mini carboy' (a gallon jug) to a thing with thousands of tiny holes in it out of which were streaming tiny bubbles. In the middle of the tube was a small disk-shaped thingy. In response to my question, it was explained that this thingy was a filter and the whole assembly was used to oxygenate beer during the early stages of fermentation. The filter keeps the nasties out. Cool. Now we use an orange carboy cap connected to the filter to the pump (a simple aquarium pump they said). Through the other hole goes the racking tube into the beer, with the siphon hose at the other end. An on-off switch controls the pump. Overkill, right? I thought so. Sorry. Cheers, Jeff (Member, Gadgeteers Anonymous) jm at sead.siemens.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 14:40:29 EDT From: wiehn at evax.gdc.com Subject: CT Brewery List - Thanks!!!!! Several weeks ago I posted a request for help in obtaining information on gathering a list of Connecticut Breweries for a patron who uses my companies' library. Through the help of the following people I found my answer: Bob Menk (bmenk at bbn.con) Carl West (eisen at kopf.hq.ileaf.com) Richard Akerboom (boomer at sylsoft.com) Tracy Waldon (waldon at Macc.wisc.edu) Thanks to the above 4 people!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If anyone needs to know about Connecticut Breweries (Names/Dates...Etc) let us know. John Wiehn General DataComm, Inc. Corporate Librarian Email: WIEHN at EVAX.GDC.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 20:19 GMT From: "Stephen G. Pimentel" <0004876702 at mcimail.com> Subject: wooden kegs The recent postings on old brewing techniques piqued my curiosity about the possible use of wooden kegs. Naturally, these were all that were available to earlier brewers. Wineries use them (old bourbon kegs sometimes) to age red wines for that oaky taste. Does anyone use wooden kegs to store beer? Would there be some taste advantage to doing so? How would you make them clean enough to use? I've read in books lamenting this century's loss of old-time country living in Britain sorrowful remarks that no one uses wood anymore only aluminium which (it is claimed) gives the beer a lifeless quality. Rachel Return to table of contents
Date: Monday, 31 Aug 1992 16:33:12 EDT From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: Priming >From: JEFF at RCC.RTI.ORG >>From: "C. Lyons" <LYONS at adc1.adc.ray.com> >>Subject: Question about adding yeast at bottling time. >>I have a question about the addition of yeast at bottling time. Is this >>recommended, and if so how much yeast should be added for a 5 gallon >>batch? The reason I ask is that I have repeatedly primed with 3/4 cup of >>corn sugar and have gotten poor carbonation. >Your problem is probably in leaving it in the secondary for 4-5 >weeks. Most ales should be completely fermented out in 7-14 >days (if 65F or warmer). Even when I brew lagers, I only let it >sit in the secondary at 50F for three weeks. Indeed the yeast >WILL settle out. At that point, more sugar isn't the answer. >You may need additional YEAST. But again, the best solution is >to bottle after 7-14 days (take a hydrometer reading to know >when to bottle). As with all these discussions, your brewing environment comes into play. I routinely leave my brew in the secondary for weeks and months (I have a porter in the secondary that has been there since April). As the proud father of a 27-month old and a 4 month old, plus having other duties around the house, bottling may take a back seat to other activities. So, I keep plenty of secondaries around. Anyway, I have never had a carbonation problem no matter how long I left it in the secondary, but then my basement never gets below 55 and is mostly around 60 in the winter and 68-70 in the summer. If I put some bottles in the refrigerator too soon, then they won't be fully carbonated. So, do what works for you, but try to isolate the important variables in your environment (is priming sugar being left in the sludge of your bottling bucket, are you storing bottles in the fridge, are the caps on tight, etc.?) and only worry about the right ones. I no longer worry about some aspects, but my dusty, moldy, mildewy basement requires that I not skip any sanitizing steps while I am racking down there.  Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Monday, 31 Aug 1992 16:33:31 EDT From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: Label the bottlecaps instead >From: Dances with Workstations <buchman at marva1.ENET.dec.com> >Something that works well for home use: label the bottlecaps, >not the bottles. We use the little adhesive dots that you put >on a diskette to show its density; or you can get stars, etc. That is what I use (actually, nowadays, I just buy the little white dots and write on them a two or three letter code). However, this works poorly when you have guests trying many different styles (say at a homebrew club meeting, or a party at your house), because once the caps come off, it becomes difficult to tell what is in each of those dozen bottles on the counter. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Monday, 31 Aug 1992 16:33:48 EDT From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: Question on cooling with ice >From: "C. Lyons" <LYONS at adc1.adc.ray.com> >1) On page 367 of TNCJOHB, one of Charlie's tips includes: >"Do not add ice to your wort in order to cool it." >In the past I have found the addition o ice quickly brings the >temperature of the wort to yeast pitching temperatures. Could >someone please explain the concern of using ice? The basic concern with using ice is that it may be highly contaminated. There is often quite a bit of bacteria in a home freezer, not to mention the possibility of picking up strange tastes or smells. I always boil up some water, put it in heavy plastic and cover, then cool then freeze. Result, sanitized ice you can use safely to cool your wort.  Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 13:54:28 PDT From: tpm%wdl58 at wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Tim P McNerney) Subject: Extract quality Well, I expect I am asking a lot, but it cannot hurt to try. I am currently an extract brewer and have been buying whatever the brewstore I am shopping at carries in bulk, since it is both cheaper and I can get whatever quantity I want. I would like to try some other extracts, but I have a difficult time in what amounts to about double what I pay for bulk extract without knowing whether it would be better (or even as good). So, what I was wondering was whether anyone had ever made a (semi)comprehensive survey of extract (kits) that are available, rating quality of beer made, characteristics of the extract, average price and whatnot (basically a Consumer's Report article on malt extracts). Barring that, what extracts have you used that you like/dislike? - --Tim McNerney - --tpm at wdl1.wdl.loral.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 14:30:30 EDT From: chuck at synchro.com (Chuck Cox) Subject: mashing in a jacket (and tie) While I am trying to get some stainless false-bottoms for the AcoustiMash, I am also formulating the first recipe. I will be brewing a 10 gallon stout, probably around 1060 OG. I know its not exactly traditional, but its based on a recipe I really like. In planning the mash, I ran into an interesting question involving heat loss when mashing-in. We know that you generally heat your mash water about 18 deg F over your initial mash temperature to accomodate the relatively cool grain. This assumes you are using an insulated mash tun. The AcoustiMash has a substantial (>20gal) thermostatically heated water jacket surrounding the two tuns. The mash water comes from this jacket. Tests, extrapolation, and some wild guesses suggest that when full of water, I can expect about 1 degree F temperature rise per minute from the 1.5kW heater. Since the system heats much faster than it cools, it would be better to under-shoot than over-shoot the initial temperature. My gut feeling is that I should simply set the thermostat for the initial mash temperature, and stir the mash well for a few minutes. I think the system has so much thermal mass that the grain won't have any serious effect on the equilibrium temperature. Theoretically, any minor cooling would be quickly handled by the heater. Any comments? - -- Chuck Cox <chuck at synchro.com> In de hemel is geen bier, daarom drinken wij het hier. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 14:15:30 PDT From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan Gros) Subject: SG temp. adjustments Can anyone give me the adjustments to SG readings at different temperatures? I guess this scale is pretty non-linear? I was trying to measure the gravity of my spargings last weekend and wasn't sure how much to adjust for the temperature. The measurements were interesting however. After the sparge I got a reading of the wort of about 54. This would be at around 150F. I was shooting for about 75 (Christmas beer), so I ran to the store and got some bulk extract syrup. I figured I'd worry about where I lost my efficiency later, and added three pounds of syrup. The man at the store figured one pound of syrup would raise the gravity of 5 gallons of wort by 7 points. My gravity measurement after the boil and after the added syrup, and after cooling to 60F was 92! (for 3.5 to 4 gallons of wort). So I guess I didn't need to add the syrup after all. And my efficiency is not as bad as I thought. I gotta get rid of this electric stove though... - Bryan Return to table of contents
Date: 31 Aug 1992 17:22:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu> Subject: a different kind of fermentation Hi ya'll. Well, I finally (after 3 weeks :-O ) racked my steam beer. After tasting and taking a s.g., it is clear that the fermenation has not proceeded the way it usually does. Nothing really to worry about, but I thought I'd ask for your ideas about what you think is going on. First, the recipe: I used 6 lbs of light dried malt extract, some crystal, some pale malt, 1 oz of 6.5 Northern Brewers for 50 min, 1 oz for 1 min, (I estimated about 30 or so International Bittering Units) and Wyeast 2035 (American Lager). It's a recipe I have made many times before. I ferment anywhere from the high 50s to the low 70s depending on time of year. It usually finishes anywhere from 1.008 to about 1.015, and is one of my favorite beers to brew. After racking, I tasted the sample. Very good, but too sweet. A hydrometer reading confirmed: 1.022, higher than I expected after three weeks (although I once bottled at 1.028--fermentation definitely over--and it was my best batch ever. I had more hops that time, though.) O.k. Differences in procedure between this batch and others of the same ilk. 1. The yeast had been frozen with glycerin. Usually, I make a starter from the package, or from bottle dregs. This is the first time I've ever used the glycerin. The yeast had (I guess) settled to the bottom. I poured off most of the glycerin and used the test tube dregs to make my starter. I don't know whether or not there was yeast suspended in the discarded glycerin. This time the starter smelled and tasted "woody"--usually it smells and tastes like sour apples. 2. I used Laaglander dried malt extract. Usually I use Munton & Fison. 3. This was the second batch I made using my new wort chiller. So I had a full boil (instead of three gallons), and I had a MUCH bigger cold break. Since I'm still learning about the chiller, I ended up with a lot more trub in the fermenter than usual. (No way I expected that much, so I didn't give it long enough to settle--and then I was too lazy to rack.) 4. I let it go three weeks in the primary. Usually, I rack after about four days, or if I'm lazy, let it go two weeks and then bottle. There was a very vigorous ferment, but without as much blowoff or kraeusen as usual. Although what stuck to the shoulders of the carboy was denser than usual. For the first few days, the "woody" smell, rather than the "sour apples" smell emanated from the carboy. The beer has not cleared as well as usual (but jeez with all that trub, it's to be expected. The little orange thingy on the racking tube wasn't even big enough to clear the trub/yeast!) So I'm interested in your opinions on why the gravity is still so high. My guesses are: 1. The freezer/glycerin mutated, degraded, or otherwise affected the yeast. 2. The heat knocked out the yeast. It IS a lager yeast, afterall, and I suppose there might have been a day or two up above 75F, but most of the time the temp was 68-73. 3. Laaglander is a lot less fermentable than M&F. 4. The quantitiy of trub and length of time spent on the trub adversely affected fermentation. Right now, I'm leaning to a combination of 1 and 3. Since the starter smelled and tasted differently, the yeast was obviously somehow different. Also, I bet the extract is less fermentable, although I have no experience with Laaglander, so I don't know. Anyway, my current plan is to let it go another week in the secondary. The sweetness doesn't bother me that much, because I can always doctor it up with a little isomerized hop extract before bottling. I suppose I could pitch some more yeast, but right now I'm inclined to RDWHAHB. On the other hand, I AM curious as to what you folks think is going on here. Like the one guy's sig file says, when I stop learning, bury me. - --frank Return to table of contents
Date: 31 Aug 1992 17:27:54 -0400 (EDT) From: Frank Tutzauer <COMFRANK at ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu> Subject: keg priming Well, the folks on R.C.B couldn't help me with this, so I'll ask here. (Actually, I would have asked here first, but I didn't have my digest address handy.) We all know that when naturally carbonating a Cornelius keg, you decrease the amount of priming sugar--like down to 1/3 of a cup, rather than the usual 3/4 c. for bottles. My question is this: Why? My reasoning is that five gallons of beer is five gallons of beer, and the 5-6 psi you use for sealing the seals and dispensing the beer shouldn't make that much difference. Does it? Or is there some other reason? - --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 15:07:34 PDT From: polstra!larryba at uunet.UU.NET (Larry Barello) Subject: Re: Airstat in a freezer? Hunter Air-Stats work great in chest freezers. Just put the sensor on the keg or carboy. They are available from: American Science Surplus. $19.50 + Shipping. #22345 1-708-475-8840 Mine cost $24 by the time it showed up at my doorstep in Seattle. - -- Larry Barello uunet!polstra!larryba Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 19:34:18 EDT From: Jay Hersh <hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu> Subject: Re: Marcato Marga Mullino Darren asks about how I modified the roller .................................. / -------------------------------- \ | -------------------------------- | | -------------------------------- | \ .................................. / Yes basically the grooves ran from one of the roller to the other along the long axis of the roller, as Darren acurately depicted. I only put 4 grooves into 1 of the 2 top rollers. These grooves were placed at right angles (i.e. evenly distributed) about the roller. I considered using as many as 8, but things seemed to work well with only 4 so I stopped there. I think if you added too many then you would reduce the surface area without grooves, which does the crushing. The crush occurs between the top 2 rollers and the third (bottom) roller. I dissassembled the unit to put the grooves on, but by popping off the plastic hopper up top the rollers are directly acessible (it is made to pop off without breaking...) and you can just pick one of the 2 top rollers and score it right in place with the unit bolted to a bench. Score a groove, rotate the rollers 90 degrees, score a groove and repeat..... JaH Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 92 10:09:50 CDT From: whg at tellabs.com Subject: Re: chicago area homebrew suppliers An unconfirmed rumour I have heard is that Chicago Indoor Garden is going to open a new outlet in the 1800 N Clybourn mall. For those who don't know this is the mall that houses the Goose Island Brewery, and sight of the monthly CBS meetings. Any confirmation out there? Walter Walter Gude || whg at tellabs.com Return to table of contents
Date: 01 Sep 1992 01:00:17 -0600 (MDT) From: SLK6P at CC.USU.EDU Subject: Bacteria on the Hands There was a note in the last HBD about the use of hands on siphon tubes, and the bacteria on them. I don't recall who it was but he described his science teacher's growth experiment. The claim that makes me cringe is that of "hands having a natural bacteriocide". There is some truth to this, but it is a bit off and potentially dangerously misleading. FYI: There are two major classes of microoganisms found on hands (skin) Resident= the normal flora of the hands (bacteria, yeasts, fungi, - these are generally harmless, and difficult to remove.) Transient= "passing" microbes often picked up from other surfaces. Are generally easier to remove and can be potentially pathogenic (depending on the type/source). There is some truth to the "natural bacteriocide" in that the resident microbes can actually serve some protection from transients by outcompeting them for nutrients and even producing inhibitory metabolites. The real problem here: is that transients come off easily. That can mean into your beer or on your siphon tubes. If you eat a salmonella covered chicken sandwich, then dip your hands in your brew, you're asking for trouble. In the same respect, picking your nose, scratching your butt, petting your dog- can result in similar transfer of "bad bugs". My suggestion: Don't be paranoid, be sensible. Wash your hands thoroughly before contacting your beer/beer implements. Dipping them into your chlorine solution wouldn't hurt either (unless it's REALLY strong!). If you are worried (first, don't be...) then use a scrub brush, and wash down several times. Use common sense and sanitary practice. Don't change the baby's diaper as you bottle your beer. But do not believe that your hands are naturally sterile and "protected" from picking up bacteria. You are a jungle of microorganisms. From your hair to your toe nails You contain a plethora of bugs you probably don't want in your beer. (this does include your breath btw. Just as you wouldn't want to sneeze into a carboy, its best to avoid puffing in your beer too.) If you don't believe me- get a plate of rich medium and stick your finger on it. Then count the number of colors/shapes/sizes of growth which appear in a week. It's impressive. Another note: For culturing yeasts. I would highly recommend the use of flame ( a good time for flaming...) on such things as inoculating loops, test tubes etc. Rinsing them with chlorine is not always a good idea. 1. You don't want chlorine solutions contacting the yeast culture. 2. Chlorine can damage inoculating loop metal, and other metals...etc. Besides for ~ $10-15 you can get a small propane torch and tank of gas to sterilize utensils/glassware. Alternatively- dipping into EtOH, then burning the EtOH will effectively sterilize many surfaces. (Esp glass rods).Gas flames are a common piece of equipment in any micro lab. The sterile box sounded like an easy thing to create. I just use the desk in my bedroom sprayed down w/lysol and wiped with EtOH. It is away from the bathroom/kitchen "cultures" of wild bugs. It is also a good idea to turn of fans, close windows, or doors to minimize movement of air. A small propane burner takes up less space, and a good room probably do more for me than a sterile hood would (I have several at work/school- but feel comfortable with a careful technique, decent space, and some common sense) Enuf bantering. Hell- just Brew! John Wyllie SLK6P at cc.usu.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #959, 09/01/92