HOMEBREW Digest #991 Thu 15 October 1992

Digest #990 Digest #992

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  American Wheat Ale (whg)
  Our Man Tim (chris campanelli)
  Re: yarrow (Jim Grady)
  a fungus amungus (dave ballard)
  re: glo:gg (CW06GST)
  Insulating my boiling pot? ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Maple Syrup Beer Recipes (hinkens)
  what is am malt liquor? / beer vs ale etc. (Tony Babinec)
  pale ale vs ipa/what is bass ale? (Tony Babinec)
  Homebrew Digest #990 (October 14, 1992) (gkushmer)
  Calcium CLoride (Joe Rolfe)
  Starters revisited (korz)
  Samual Smith Taddy Porter recipe (GLENN O. VEACH)
  OOOPS!!!! (korz)
  Cranberry Mead (William R Tschantz)
  Pressure cooker & Labels ("Mark Cronenweth - cronen at vms.cis.pitt.edu")
  Malt Liqour Definitions (Jon Binkley)
  Mendocino (AAAF000)
  Glogg (Mike Mahler)
  Hop substitutes? (Carlo Fusco)
  Who? (aguado e)
  GABF (Jack Schmidling)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 13 Oct 92 10:27:04 CDT From: whg at tellabs.com Subject: American Wheat Ale Can anyone in the know out there post a description of American Wheat Ale. I've sampled "AWA's" that have been so close to Weizens that I don't know why the brewer differenciated. On the other side of the spectrum, many micro's (Dave Miller's being an example) brew a wheat ale that is so pedestrian that you'd never know there was wheat in it (The main reason for the beer seems to be to have an exotic name yet still appeal to the timid masses). So what's the "official" line on American Wheat Ale? Enquiring minds want to know, Walter Gude || whg at tellabs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 00:02 CDT From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli) Subject: Our Man Tim Tim Norris asked that the following be posted: Siebel is restructuring themselves and in the process are shedding some of their distribution responsibilities, of which the Belgian malts is one. Schrier will be picking up the Belgian malt distribution and expect an increase of maybe a penny per pound. While Schrier will concentrate only on supplying micros and brewpubs, they have no plans to allow any one single distributor to handle the retail side. If an malt gets dropped by Schrier, it will be replaced with a higher quality malt to replace it. So the bottom line to the nervous nellies (myself included) is that the Belgian malt supply to the US is not expected to be interupted, the price will rise ever so slightly, and no one single retailer will be allowed exclusive distribution rights. The question now is: how trustworthy is Schrier? Will they keep their word? chris campanelli Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 7:43:59 EDT From: Jim Grady <jimg at hpwalq.wal.hp.com> Subject: Re: yarrow In HBD #990, Jack Thompson asks: > I would like to brew some pre-hops beer, and wonder whether or not any one > has information of the use of yarrow to bitter the brew? Although I cannot answer the question directly, I can say that there was a book (I don't know if it still in print) called "Recipes for Prizewinning Wines" by Bryan Acton (or it may have been Peter Duncan). It had a recipe for Yarrow Wine in its herb wine section and that may serve as a starting point for you. The author said that this wine was used primarily for medicinal purposes. It tasted awful (but then again, there was probably no sweetness to balance the bitterness) but was supposed to be a great help with colds and catarrh. I cannot find my copy; I bought it in 1973 or so and lost it during a hiatus in brewing. I have not seen it in stores sinces then. It was published by "Amateur Winemaker" - the same folks who publish Acton & Duncan's "Progressive Winemaking". If you cannot find that book, you also might want to check C.J.J. Berry's book "First Steps in Winemaking." He has a bazillion recipes including an "Onion Wine" so he may have tried yarrow by now as well. Good luck! - -- Jim Grady |"Talent imitates, genius steals." Internet: jimg at wal.hp.com | Phone: (617) 290-3409 | T. S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Oct 1992 8:39 EDT From: dab at blitzen.cc.bellcore.com (dave ballard) Subject: a fungus amungus Hey now- It was bound to happen, right? I brew the best batch of my short brewing career- a liberty ale-ish thang that is perfectly clear, perfectly balanced, basically just perfect. I dry-hopped in the secondary with hops grown in a friend's garden (thanks bonehead!) and let it sit for about 2 weeks. I racked to a tertiary on Sunday to let some residual hop junk settle out and planned to bottle on Monday or Tuesday. So I head down to the basement yesterday after work to start gathering bottles and from a distance the beer in the carboy looks like it has started to ferment again 'cause there's some sort of head on it. I move in for a closer look. My draw drops, my eyes roll back in my head, a blood-curdling cry echoes throughout the house. The surface of the beer is covered with a thin white scum. It's kind of lacy looking with little fuzzy nodules here and there with vein-like things extending into the film. It looks like the stuff the people had on them when they crawled out of the pods in "Invasion Of The Body Snatchers." I made a valid attemp at bottling anyway, although I'm sure the bottles will develop the same thing since it looked like there were little pieces of stuff floating throughout the bucket when i primed. It still tasted and smelled okay, so I don't know. Any thoughts on what it is? I didn't do anything to the hops before I added them to the secondary, but I think if it was caused by them it would have appeared sooner. I sanitzed the carboy in my usual manner (bleach soak) and basically did nothing different from my usual routine? I'm pretty bummed, so any info would be greatly appreciated. If the scum forms in the bottle I would be more than happy to send some to anyone who wants to take a look first hand. later dab ========================================================================= dave ballard dab at cc.bellcore.com ========================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 10:17:11 EST From: CW06GST <CW06GST%SJUMUSIC.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: re: glo:gg Several people have commented on glo:gg essence and I just thought I'd put in my .02. John was saying that he wanted to make his own extract from the glo:gg spices that he had purchased but it was mostly raisins. It is true that glo:gg is served with raisins in it, but I don't think that is what it is spiced with. The raisins are added in addition to the spices. So if you are going to steep the spices to try and make your own tincture I would lose the raisins. But, why not just add the spices at the end of the boil like finishing hops? instead of trying to make a tincture. Kurt (and others) have mentioned that the essence is available in the Chicago area. He says that the extract is water based just like that found in Sweden. If this is the case then to make your own extract all you have to do is steep the ingredients in water to get the goodness out of them. I have glo:gg essence that I bought in Valbo, (right outside of Ga:vle) Sweden from the pharmacy (apoteket). It is not a water based mixture but is alcohol based, and is what I will be using to make a Christmas ale. As I have mentioned before, it comes in 25 ml bottles and is 63% alcohol. If you would want to make a tincture like this I suggest making up a solution of grain alcohol, the spices and water. Make the volume of alcohol 65% and water 35%. Heat this covered until it comes to a boil. Let cool and strain off the spices. I have never tried this so you might want to heat it a little longer. Experiment| Kurt also mentioned he had a family recipe for glo:gg. I have spent Christmas in Sweden, and I have tried many different family's glo:gg but noone ever gave me a real recipe. If you post it I would greatly appreciate it. Good Luck, Erik Zenhausern cw06gst at sjuvm.bitnet cw06gst at sjuvm.stjohns.edu (internet) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 10:23:25 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: Insulating my boiling pot? Last night, I was watching my 5+ gallons of wort barely boiling, with the 11000 BTU burner on full blast under it, and was trying to figure out what I could do, short of buying a "Cajun Cooker" (and propane, or extending my gas piping outside), to get it to boil faster (or at all!) I dimly recalled a posting in this forum several years ago wherein the brewer wrapped his pot in some sort of insulation (newspapers?) to get better performance. Since I've got a black pot (ceramic on steel) I imagine that there could be significant heat loss from the sides of the pot. I tried wrapping newspaper around the pot, but it started to char (sitting on a gas burner, after all). Then I cannibalized an old water heater insulation blanket that I had never used. Figured the fiberglass wouldn't burn (but see below). I did pull off the plastic backing. This worked, and I was actually able to sustain a vigorous rolling boil with the lid partly covering the pot. But I'm not happy about having that "naked" fiberglass so near to my food. *** So, here's the question: Has anyone figured out a good solution to the *** problem of insulating the sides of a large pot? Along the way, I tried to put the pot over two burners, but the configuration of my cooktop makes this essentially impossible (the control knobs end up underneath the pot -- not a good situation). I did manage to melt/burn a little of the fiberglass in the process. (It smelled sort of "plastic-like", so maybe it's not really fiberglass.) Those gas flames are hot! =Spencer W. Thomas | Info Tech and Networking, B1911 CFOB, 0704 "Genome Informatician" | Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109 Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu | 313-747-2778, FAX 313-764-4133 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 09:33:20 -0600 From: hinkens at macc.wisc.edu Subject: Maple Syrup Beer Recipes To all the creative minds in HBD land: I have a cousin that brews mostly extract beers. He is looking for a recipe that has Maple syrup in it. I look in the latest edition of _Cat's Meow_ but I only found a porter. He prefers lighter beers. Can anyone help us out? Thanks in advance! Jay D. Hinkens Madison, Wisconsin Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 9:48:49 CDT From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: what is am malt liquor? / beer vs ale etc. An American Malt Liquor is a blond lager with an alcohol strength stronger than an American Premium. I am not a commercial brewer, and am not certain of the law here, but I believe the cutoff is something like 5% alcohol or something like a 1.050 starting gravity. The analogy might be to the German Pilsner and German Export styles, with the latter being higher in gravity. Of course, the American beers are nowhere near so hoppy as the German! In my humble opinion, most American Malt Liquors are rather sweet and undistinguished in taste, or at least that's what I recall. U.S. law imposes certain labeling requirements on the commercial brewer. A "beer" falls below the above cutoff, while an "ale" or "malt liquor" fall above. Again, I invite someone with more knowledge of commercial brewing and the law to add to this. But, you'll notice, for example, that Old Foghorn labels have described it as "a barley wine-style ale." I'm guessing that they must call it an ale by law, and by describing it as a barley wine style, they are clueing us in as to its strength and style. In a related vein, you will notice that some of the German import Oktoberfests are "beers," while others will have a label such as "Oktoberfestbier." Examples of the former tend to be lighter in color, less flavorful, and, it seems, under 1.050 or so in SG. Examples of the latter include Spaten and Paulaner, which in my opinion are tasty and exemplary of style. In "Vienna," George and Laurie Fix point out that many of the German Fest beers are in the 1.051 - 1.055 SG range, which would make them "bier" and not "beer." Or, so I am surmising. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 10:13:48 CDT From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: pale ale vs ipa/what is bass ale? Historically, India Pale Ale was a high-gravity, highly hopped, pale (as opposed to brown) beer brewed to withstand the sea voyage to British colonial outposts, where you can imagine that it, along with gin, was a drink of choice. Today, such a beer would be called a barley wine. While there are shadings of style rather than a sharp demarcation, AHA style guidelines at least indicate: pale ale india pale ale SG 1.044 - 1.056 1.050 - 1.060 BU 20 - 40 40 - 60 color 4 - 11 8 - 14 Terry Foster's Pale Ale book suggests higher gravities, higher hoppiness, and less crystal malt in the grain bill for IPAs. Also, as already pointed out in HBD, NO OAK CHIPS! In actual commercial usage, the above guidelines haven't been strictly followed. Bass Ale's label has changed repeatedly through the years, but as noted, carries an IPA designation, while in fact it is a pale ale by the above style descriptions. A glance at CAMRA publications shows that "IPA" has been used by certain breweries to refer to what are actually bitters which are well below 1.050 in SG. To emulate Bass Ale, follow the pale ale guidelines and use British ingredients (malts or extracts, hops) and an appropriate ale yeast. Anyone have a recipe that is a bass ale knockoff? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 13:00:58 EDT From: gkushmer at Jade.Tufts.EDU Subject: Homebrew Digest #990 (October 14, 1992) >Date: Tue, 13 Oct 1992 15:55 EST >From: Carlo Fusco <G1400023 at NICKEL.LAURENTIAN.CA> >Subject: Cranberry Ale? >I just racked my first Christmas ale into a secondary and tasted it. >Wonderfull stuff. Now I don't want to make a plain ale next time I brew. >Since it was Thanksgiving this past weekend in Canada I had the idea of >adding cranberrys to my next batch of beer. >Q1..How much cranberry should I use? Do I crush them? I made a cranberry beer using a little under 3 lbs of Ocean Spray cranberries. They were frozen in the fridge and I pureed them right before adding them to the wort. They were added right after I turned the heat off and their semi-frozen state brought the boil straight down. Then after letting them steep for ten or so minutes, I threw in an immersion wort chiller and took the temp down to 80F. >Q2..Should I add a sweet berry to offset the sourness of the cranberries? My cranberry ale came out to be light and tart. It has a nice flavor profile on its own. Add it only if you want to change the flavor of the end product to something sweeter, but try not to overpower the cranberry flavor too much. >Q3..Anyone with a recipe for an extract cranberry ale? My notes are at home, but I took this as a variant of something I saw in the Cats Meow II. 5 lbs Light Malt Extract 1 lb. sugar 1 1/4 oz Fuggles (Boiling 30 min) 3/4 oz Fuggles (Finishing 10 min) Irish Moss Gypsum Munton & Fison Dry Ale yeast 3 lbs pureed frozen Cranberries I got two cases out of it. If you want the exact recipie, ask me on email and I'll go drag out the notes. BTW - I primed with brown sugar. >Q4..Fruit are added at the end of the boil, steeped and transfered into the primary. When I rack the beer to the secondary do I also transfer the fruit? I had a strainer over the funnel hole and would let the wort drip through it. Then I would press it a bit with the ladling spoon and scoop it out into a bowl. This took a little while, and some of the wort was left behind in the saturated cranberries (I used hop bags and grain sacks so that there wasn't a lot of other stuff). But I topped it off with some tap water (gasp!) and got a nice two cases out of it. Some of it was bound to get through though, and sometimes I find a cranberry seed in the bottom of my beer. I recommend you start NOW so that the beer may age properly - this is something that gets better with age. - --gk Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 12:55:17 EDT From: Joe Rolfe <jdr at wang.com> Subject: Calcium CLoride hi all, i have a question regarding Calcium Cloride and it's use as brewing water treatments. does anyone know of what the ppm/US gallon of Calcium and cloride this would add?? thanx joe Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 12:18 CDT From: iepubj!korz at ihlpa.att.com Subject: Starters revisited As I've mentioned before, I've been away, so forgive this semi-late post. I'm all caught up now, so I should be back in-sync. Micah writes: > I feel that this question opens a whole can of worms as far as >yeast propagation goes. While it might not hurt anything to put hops >in the yeast starter it can serve little but to increase the cost of the >process ( oh, it is possible that the hops can lower the ph enough to >help, but its not a viable method of ph justment). As I believe someone else mentioned, the hops are for antibacterial purposes. However, I don't use them. >DME is very expensive and messy. I'm reconsidering my technique (I'm thinking about using higher-gravity starters, based upon what George and others have written), but I've been using 1 ounce (weight) of light DME in 16 ounces of water, boiled 10 minutes, then cooled for my 1.020 starters. At $9 for 3 pounds, that's 19 cents per 16 ounces of starter -- hardly expensive. Perhaps it's more humid by you -- that's the only reason I can think of it being messy, but during my normal (Oct to June) brewing season, it's not humid enough to make my DME cake-up if I keep in in a sealed plastic container. >importantly proper carbohydrate sources. It is known that yeast can >respire more effectively when exposed to some carbohydrate sources than >others. Brewers yeast does the worst (as far as reproduction goes) on >maltose and other mash derived complex sugars. It follows that the use >of dry malt extract is not the best choice. Interestingly, brewers yeast >respires best with sucrose, glucose and galactose, these occur in common >sugar ( like from the grocery store). Also this type of sugar is not very >pure and contains all sorts of excellent trace nutrients that the yeast >like. This stuff is readily available in powdered form ( which mixes up >more easily) and is very cheap. Perhaps, but this conflicts directly with Noonan's claim that if yeast is given a high-glucose environment, they shut down their maltose (di- and tri- saccharide, I mean) metabolism pathways in lieu of (as you said) the "easy sugars." Noonan suggests that yeast raised in a high-glucose environment will take some time to re-start their di- and tri-saccharide pathways, resulting in longer lag times. However, Bob Jones has reported *no increase in lag times* from switching to sucrose starters and Micah gets 2 hour lag times (see below), so perhaps this is an error in Noonan's book? Then, in a followup post, Micah says: > So heres what I do to just build up a starter. > I boil water and powdered sugar together with some yeast nutrient for Ahhh... I wondered about this after your first post. On the other hand, as we know from Rob Bradley's post, not all yeast nutrients are alike. What kind of yeast nutrient do you use, Micah? > about ten minutes, cool it and add the yeast, and shake well. > The solution has approx 1020 gravity. Once a day i will "feed" the > yeast some more sugar solution of successively greater concentrations > to allow for dilution of additional liquid. From a yeast packet i can > grow up to my pitch volume of 700mls dense slurry in three days with > out a lot of excess liquid involved to dilute to wort. The yeast is > grow at 80 F. I normally see 2 hour lag times with 15 gallon batches. > Sanitation is important so be careful. Given the fact that you use yeast nutrient, I willing to concede that perhaps sucrose+nutrient is a viable alternative to malt extract for starters. In addition, you note that you add additional sugar with successively higher concentrations, which is acclimating the yeast for their plunge into higher gravity wort -- seeings how this increase in gravity (and osmotic pressure) is gradual -- this may be the best argument for this use. As I see it, all that needs to be determined is if Noonan is right or wrong (biologically, I mean, as there are already Micah's and Bob Jones' empirical data points that Noonan has, at least, overstated it's importance) about the increased lag time from yeast raised on glucose. Perhaps Noonan was not using nutrient and thus was creating weak yeast? George's post on the EBC's results seems to support the malt starter argument, but perhaps they did not use nutrients with the non-malt starters either? Mead-makers have repeatedly reported problems with amino-acid-deficient ferments. Personally, I think I will continue to use malt extract, but will try incorporating Micah's "successively higher-gravity" procedure. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 13:52:59 -0400 (EDT) From: GVEACH at cgi.com (GLENN O. VEACH) Subject: Samual Smith Taddy Porter recipe I am in search of malt extract recipes which best approximate Samuel Smith Taddy Porter. If you have one, please forward it to me at gveach at cgi.com I will be glad to collect the recipes and post to HB. Thanks...glenn veach = gveach at cgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 13:24 CDT From: iepubj!korz at ihlpa.att.com Subject: OOOPS!!!! I wrote: >As I believe someone else mentioned, the hops are for antibacterial >purposes. However, I don't use them. I meant I don't use hops for my *STARTERS*. I love hops almost as much as a Pacific Northwesterner and use them liberally in my kettle AND fermenters. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 14:34:40 EDT From: William R Tschantz <wtschant at magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu> Subject: Cranberry Mead HI My Brewpartner thought it would be nice totry to brew a crannberry mead, I think that it would be to tart, but I told him I would ask those who are more knowledgeable than me. So has anyone out there ever brew a crannberry mead? If so whats the recipe and what were the results. Any help appreciated, Bill - -- |Bill Tschantz | How about a Homebrew? |Chemistry Department | Support your Second Amendment rights! |Ohio State University | |wtschant at magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 16:16 EST From: "Mark Cronenweth - cronen at vms.cis.pitt.edu" <CRONEN at vms.cis.pitt.edu> Subject: Pressure cooker & Labels I'm almost as excited about this, my first posting, as I am about tonight's decisive NLCS playoff game. What a great reason to have a homebrew! First a question: My neighbor just got hold of a 5-gallon pressure cooker. We wanted to use it for brewing (extracts and specialty grains). Has anyone out there in network land ever brewed this way? Do you reduce boiling time due to higher temperatures? What about adding hops, etc. Will the higher temps damage the "enzymes" in the malt or produce nasty by-products? Any help would be appreciated. Also - I've been following the labeling debate & thought I'd mention my variation. I use small round "file markers" from the office supply store to label each bottlecap. They come in many colors, but I just use one until the package is gone. I simply number each batch in my "brewlog" and post a chart on my refrigerator. Each bottlecap has a number on it corresponding to the batch. A look at the bottlecap and a look at the chart tells me what kind of beer I've just grabbed, and reminds me to close the fridge door. Mark Cronenweth LET'S GO BUC'S! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 14:34:23 -0600 From: Jon Binkley <binkley at beagle.Colorado.EDU> Subject: Malt Liqour Definitions Jeff Mizener wrote: >I noticed the following category in the GABF: > > AMERICAN MALT LIQUOR > Gold: Olde English 800 Malt Liquor, Pabst Brewing, Milwaukee. > Silver: Silver Thunder Malt Liquor, Stroh Brewery Co., Detroit. > Bronze: Colt 45 Malt Liquor, G. Heileman Brewing Co., La Crosse, Wis. > >What is this this stuff? What makes a beer a malt liquor? Malt Liquor is largely just a legal term. Some states in the US require any beer over 6% alcohol by volume to be called Malt Liquor. Therefore you get some good imported beers, like barley wines, dopple bocks, etc. getting labeled "Malt Liquor" just to satisfy varying state laws. You also get a class of boring American light lager which gets called the same thing on purpose. The above beers have little more character than your typical Budweiser/Coors/Miller type beers. They just have more corn syrup added to the fermenter to give them more alcohol. As has been pointed out, the only reason GABF gives awards for this swill is so they can stroke the big brewers who sponser the event. Jon Binkley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 18:28:23 EST From: AAAF000 <AAAF%CATCC.BITNET at VTVM2.CC.VT.EDU> Subject: Mendocino I was just wondering if anyone out there is familiar with the Mendocino Brewing Company. I have spotted a few bottles of their product lately and wonder if it is worth a purchase. If anyone knows anything please post it. MANGE BABY!!!! nothing but cheese all of the time! ---Rick Smith/AAAF at CATCC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 13:10:46 EDT From: mm at workgroup.com (Mike Mahler) Subject: Glogg There's a place near where I live in Worcester, MA. called the Scandinavian Bakery and they sell Glogg base (what they say is used to make Glogg) in quart bottles. The phone number is 508.755.0474 $4.40 for 25.44 ounces The basic scoop is you use equal portions of the base and vodka, some port wine and a seasonings bag that has the raisins, orange peel, and other stuff in it. Give them a call if you're interested. Tell them MahlerHund Breweries sent ya (the dog kennel that brews beer). ;-) Michael Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 1992 20:14 EST From: Carlo Fusco <G1400023 at NICKEL.LAURENTIAN.CA> Subject: Hop substitutes? Hello, I have recently been informed that way back in the old days, 1700's or so, that the plant species Myrica gale was used to bitter beer instead of hops. Has anyone tried this and how much do I use. It grows around any lake here in NNorthern Ontario. Also, are there any other common plants that anyone uses to bitter their beer instead of hops? I've made tea with the Myrica gale and I'm wondering if I should make a tea and then add it to the wort or if I should just boil the dried leaves in the wort. On the topic of hops. Where do I get rhizoids for growing my own hops? What type should I use a 43 degrees N latitude? Greg Pyle (I don't have internet access as of yet) Send replies to Carlo Fusco, g1400023 at nickel.laurentian.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 21:30:21 PDT From: engebret at steer.sdsu.edu (aguado e) Subject: Who? Don't mean to be nosey, but I saw this address in a post on Fidonet and thought I would investigate. Is this a conference or a private address? ? I just started homebrewing and wouldn't mind conversing about the hobby. Regards, Mark Engebretson engebret at steer.sdsu.edu engebret at ucsvax.sdsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 21:15 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: GABF To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: wegeng.henr801c at xerox.com >> I note that Lowenbrau Dark took several medals and my first reaction is to >>conclude that the GABF must be a farce. >Lowenbrau Dark took exactly one medal: a Silver in the Dark Lager catagory. I assume that what you`re really trying to point out is that several catagories seemed to be dominated by the megabreweries. Not at all. What I am pointing out is that, unless Miller changed the recipe since first introducing Lowerbrau Dark, the only way they could win a medal in the Dark Lager catagory is if it was the only dark lager entered. It is pitiful at best. It is nothing but caramel colored Miller. > This is no accident - the characteristics of these catagories were designed to allow the megabreweries to win some medals. Dark Lager? You gotta be kidding. That is about as general as it can get. >Some people may cry `foul` for this..... Not me, I say farce. js Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #991, 10/15/92