HOMEBREW Digest #992 Fri 16 October 1992

Digest #991 Digest #993

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  sweet gale? ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  malt liquor, cream ale (Rob Bradley)
  Postcard from Belgium (iknott)
  American Wheat Ale (Jon Binkley)
  Myrica Gale and Yarrow (G.A.Cooper)
  Insulating pots (Nick Zentena)
  Re: Maple Syrup Beer Recipes (dvac)
  Pressure cooker (cja)
  California Red and GABF ("CBER::MRGATE::\"A1::RIDGELY\"")
  dry hop vs. end-of-boil (Chris McDermott)
  I think I killed my yeast. (Roy Styan)
  HBD 989? ("John Cotterill")
  Re: what is am malt liquor? / beer vs ale etc. (John DeCarlo)
  What is Bass Ale? (Ron Ezetta)
  On-line homebrew tasting (McGlew Raymond)
  BAA ("Joe McCauley")
  Flatulence, Why worry about it ? (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  Flatulence, Why worry about it ? (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
  Alie oops. (korz)
  Re: Insulating my boiling pot? (hinkens)
  polyclar (norman)
  calcium chloride (KLIGERMAN)
  Windbags (Jack Schmidling)
  Small Batches (Chris Cook, NMOS Quality Engineer - (301)386-7807)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 09:24:17 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: sweet gale? Does anyone know where to get this spice (herb?) It's one of the ingredients in the Christmas Ale in Rajotte's Belgian Ale book. I looked at the local Food Co-op (in both the herbs and medicinal herbs sections) and didn't find it. The recipe calls for a total of 3 grams, so I obviously wouldn't need much! Either a mail-order source, or one near to Ann Arbor, MI would be preferred. Thanks. =S Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 09:52:12 -0400 From: bradley at adx.adelphi.edu (Rob Bradley) Subject: malt liquor, cream ale A few comments on the GABF thread: MALT LIQUOR As I'm sure most of you know, the megabreweries practice something called `high extract brewing'. The original gravity is significantly higher than you would expect, and the beer is DILUTED ON THE BOTTLING LINE to bring it to the correct strength!!!!! [Thus all the bull in the TV ads about shipping `concentrated beer' by train.] According to Viv Jones, one-time brewmaster at Upper Canada in Toronto, the final product in a typical North American brewery is 6.5% or more alcohol by volume. [As has been noted before alcohol by volume and by weight are different....the figure of 6% by volume quoted in HBD991 is roughly in line with the figure of 5% quoted earlier in the same issue, assuming that the later is by weight.] The advantages of this style of brewing are abvious: the throughput from a given brew-house is vastly increased. Original gravity is essentially as high as it can possibly be without affecting yeast performance. Apparently many brewers use the same beer to make light and regular: just add more water for light beer! Is it possible that `malt liquor' is produced by the big guys by diluting less? Let's look at some GABF results: >AMERICAN LAGER > Gold: Schlitz, The Stroh Brewery Co., Detroit. > Silver: Hamm's, Pabst Brewing Co., Milwaukee. > Bronze: Stoney's Beer, Jones Brewing Co., Smithton, Pa. > ....... >AMERICAN MALT LIQUOR > Gold: Olde English 800 Malt Liquor, Pabst Brewing, Milwaukee. > Silver: Silver Thunder Malt Liquor, Stroh Brewery Co., Detroit. > Bronze: Colt 45 Malt Liquor, G. Heileman Brewing Co., La Crosse, Wis. I wonder if anybody out there can verify what, if any, connection there is between Schlitz and Siver Thunder? Hamm's and Olde English? CREAM ALE Now here's an interesting case where, perhaps, GABF is doing some good. Apparently, the style is called "American Sparkling Lager Ale" and is a 19th century hybrid of Bohemian and North American techniques. Primary at ale temperatures, secondary at lager temperatures. Ale or lager yeast can be uesd. I grew up on it (-: Labatt's 50. The night before the GABF results appeared, I was at the local Rite-Aid pharmacy here on Long Island. I noticed, for $2.39, 6-packs of Genesee Cream Ale, with a sticker saying: winner at the GABF. I knew it must mean 1991 or earlier, since the GABF had just taken place. Well I'm a Canadian, eh, so I'm not steeped in the local fraternity culture. Nevertheless, I have had regular Genesee and I do know better than to expect great beer out of a can (or for $0.4 per can). So I wan't too disappointed. I have since learned that it's main claim to fame is its price. To it's credit, the stuff has more body than Bud and a tad more bitterness. No particular hop or malt character. It is most decidedly an industrial grade beer. Well, let's look at the 1992 results: >AMERICAN LAGER/ALE CREAM ALE > Gold: Scrimshaw Beer, North Coast Brewing Co., Fort Bragg, Calif. > Silver: Dock Street Cream Ale, Dock Street Brewing Co., Philadelphia. > Bronze: Little King's Cream Ale, Hudepohl-Schoenling, Cincinnati. Hmmmmmmmm. Genesee's been kicked off the list and Little King's is just hanging in there. The gold and silver look like micros (can anybody confirm?) Seems there's a renaissance going on here! [Thanks to Tony Babinec who e-mailed me on the subject of Cream Ale/"American Sparkling Lager Ale" in March.] Cheers, Rob (bradley at adx.adelphi.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 14:39:31 +0500 From: iknott at biocell.fundp.ac.be Subject: Postcard from Belgium Dear HBDers: Have so far spent ten days beer hunting in the UK, including visits to three breweries and countless pubs. I arrived yesterday here in Belgium, and today had a lesson in yeast handling from some biologist friends in Namur. Notes are being taken on everything that moves, and if it turns out that theres anything useful in the mess I will prepare a report. In any case, having a wonderful time, wish you were here! Phil Seitz P.S. A note to any British readers; Tolly Cobbold is now offering a special anniversary ale, which is available for only two weeks; if you find it, dont hesitate! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 08:04:44 -0600 From: Jon Binkley <binkley at beagle.Colorado.EDU> Subject: American Wheat Ale >Can anyone in the know out there post a description of American Wheat Ale. >I've sampled "AWA's" that have been so close to Weizens that I don't know >why the brewer differenciated. On the other side of the spectrum, many >micro's (Dave Miller's being an example) brew a wheat ale that is so >pedestrian that you'd never know there was wheat in it (The main reason for >the beer seems to be to have an exotic name yet still appeal to the timid >masses). So what's the "official" line on American Wheat Ale? The pedestrian version you and I both dislike is, in fact, American Wheat Ale. If it's close to a Weizen in taste then it is a Weizen. American Wheats have similiar grain bills and hopping rates to Weizens- i.e., 50-75% wheat malt, very low bittering, little or no finishing hops. The primary difference between them is the yeast used to ferment them. A Bavarian style Weizen uses Saccharomyces delbruekeii; this yeast produces all the wonderful spicy/fruity esters associated with the style. American wheats, exemplified by the insipid Anchor Wheat and Red Hook Brewery's Wheat Hook, use standard ale yeast. The result is an underhopped, virtually flavorless beverage reminiscent of Miller Lite. I would guess that they were oringinally trying to duplicate the Bavarian style but didn't have access to the proper yeast. But then they discovered that their customers were buying more of their tasteless wheat beers than any of their good beers, so they continue to make the crap. Such is life in our market driven society. No problem, still plenty of good Bavarian imports, and S. delbruekeii is available to us homebrewers from Wyeast (#3056). Jon Binkley Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 14:23:18 +0000 From: G.A.Cooper at qmw.ac.uk Subject: Myrica Gale and Yarrow There have been a number of questions about pre-hop beers, in particular the use of Myrica Gale and Yarrow. The first two recipes in John Harrison's book 'Old British Beers ...' suggests an OG 50 beer might have 1 gram each Myrica Gale (Sweet Gale) Ledum Palustre (Marsh Rosemary) and Achillea Millefolium (Millfoil or Yarrow) in one imperial gallon (=1.2 US gallon). The herb mixture should be boiled with the wort for 20 minutes. The OG 80 beer requires 1.5 gram each of the herbs. No hops. Disclaimer: Yes I do have an interest in the book; I am a member of Durden Park Club. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 10:28:11 -0400 From: Nick Zentena <zen%hophead at canrem.com> Subject: Insulating pots Hi, One thing to try is the sort of insulation sold for use on hot water pipes. The kind I got for my old lautertun had glue on one side and foil on the outside. Whatever you use the best idea on a stove would be not to go all the way down the pot. Even insulating 2/3 of the pot should make life much easier. If having fiberglass nearby bothers you then think about using wood. Wooden slats tied somehow around the pot should also help. Hope this helps Nick ***************************************************************************** I drink Beer I don't collect cute bottles! zen%hophead at canrem.com ***************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 09:14 MDT From: dvac%druwa.att.com at hplb.hpl.hp.com Subject: Re: Maple Syrup Beer Recipes > I have a cousin that brews mostly extract beers. He is looking for a > recipe that has Maple syrup in it. I look in the latest edition of _Cat's > Meow_ but I only found a porter. He prefers lighter beers. Well, as a matter of fact my last brew was done with 16oz of Pure Maple Syrup from Quebec Canada. I also do most of my brews using mostly extracts, and this one was made with John Bull hopped light extract, some LME, crystal malt, and the syrup. I was rather dissappointed with the brew as the Maple Syrup was not as prominent as I had hoped. I added the syrup to the boil after about 20 minutes. The syrup boiled for about 20 minutes, and steeped for about 15 minutes. I am thinking about adding the syrup at the very end (15 mins of steeping), and/or adding it to the primary after the boil is done, allowing it to do it's thing in the primary. I figure that may give me more of a maple flavor to the beer. Any comments on this? Also, in preperation for my christmas beer, I just made an experimentation batch from a 2.2lb Can of Premeir (first time using it....it was cheap and I got it from the local grocery store even...I just wanted to see if there was a major difference between that and what I can get at my homebrew shop), some orange peel, nutmeg, and cloves. I made an xmas beer last year, it wasn't bad, but it also wasn't what I wanted.. (and you know how picky those homebrewers get when it doesn't taste the way they wanted it to...;-) Anyone have any favorite tricks of the trade for xmas brews?! - Dan Vachon !att!druwa!dvac Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 08:27:44 -0700 From: cja at chmist.zso.dec.com Subject: Pressure cooker >> First a question: My neighbor just got hold of a 5-gallon pressure cooker. >> We wanted to use it for brewing (extracts and specialty grains). Has anyone >> out there in network land ever brewed this way? Do you reduce boiling time >> due to higher temperatures? What about adding hops, etc. Will the higher I wouldn't do it. Pressure cookers come with instructions that tell you never to cook stuff that will foam up a lot. The foam can block the pressure valve and cause a big boom if things get overheated. As we all know, the initial stage of boiling wort is about the foamiest thing known to mankind. If you think stories of exploding carboys are bad, just wait until that aluminum grenade goes off on your stove. However, pressure cookers are ideal for preparing sterile wort for yeast propagation. Boil the wort as normal in a different pot, then pour into canning jars. Screw on the lids loosely, then put them in a few inches of water in the pressure cooker. Pressure cook for a while (I do 10 min.), then let the pot cool with the lid on. When you open the pot, screw down the lids on the jars,and you've got sterile wort. +-------------------------------+-------------------------------+ | Carl J. Appellof | cja at chmist.zso.dec.com | | Open Systems Group | | | Digital Equipment Corporation | This space for rent | | Bellevue, WA | | +-------------------------------+-------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 11:38:46 -0400 (EDT) From: "CBER::MRGATE::\"A1::RIDGELY\"" at CBER.CBER.FDA.GOV Subject: California Red and GABF From: NAME: Bill Ridgely FUNC: HFB-300 TEL: FTS 402-1336 <RIDGELY at A1 at CBER> To: SMTP%"HOMEBREW at HPFCMI.FC.HP.COM" at MRGATE at WPC Chris McDermott writes: > On another note. While I was on my honeymoon, I happened upon the Seabright Brewery in Santa Cruz CA. One of their special brews was called Century Red and my wife, not being much of a hop-head, loved it's dark, sweet maltiness. Has anyone out in HbD land tried this and if so could you help me make a guess at an all-grain recipe for it? I tried to talk to the brewer, but he was at the GABF picking up his three, count 'em, (1 gold, 2 silver) medals. While I only tried the Red, it sounds like they brew a good deal of quality ale there.< While at the GABF, I had the good fortune to run into Steve Parkes, an old friend and now brewmaster at the Humboldt Brewery in Arcata, CA. Along with other distinctive products, Humboldt brews a delightful beer called Red Nectar, very similar to the Century Red noted above. Steve is actively campaigning to have the style, which he calls "California Red", recognized as a distinct new beer category. Afficionados may note that many California breweries produce a similar beer, usually with the word "red" somewhere in the name. While the flavor profile of "California Red" is fairly complex, I find it quite simply to be a Maerzen-style beer brewed as an ale rather than a lager. I believe a fair proportion of Vienna malt is used in the grist, and a high mashing temperature brings out the residual sweetness. Ale yeast gives the beer its fruity characteristics. Original gravity is about 1.050. To make this beer, I recommend using a good basic Maerzen/Oktoberfest recipe and then substituting the traditional lager yeast with a somewhat low-attenuating ale yeast (such as Wyeast's German Ale). BTW, attendees at the GABF may remember me as the one with the "BURP" t-shirt pulling beers at the Humboldt booth on Saturday night. Sorry the Red Nectar ran out so quickly. On the subject of the GABF blind tasting, I would note that the beers are not judged using the 50-point AHA/HWBTA scale, simply because there is not enough time (and not enough judges - and, I suspect, not enough expertise) to provide this level of analysis for 700+ beers. Therefore, emphasis is on adherence to style and drinkability. Unfortunately, brewers are given no feedback as to how their beers are judged, and I personally feel that after selecting 18 medalists (count 'em!) in the American Lager, Light Lager, Premium Lager, Dry Lager, and Malt Liquor categories, these judges can easily be brain-damaged enough to let Jim Koch's Boston Stock Ale slip through as a classic example of Dusseldorf Alt! IMHO, the gold medal in Scottish Ales should have gone to Old Maclunk from the Boulder Creek Brewing Co. - a classic example of the 80-shilling export style. Bill Ridgely (ridgely at cber.cber.fda.gov) Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Oct 1992 11:39:32 -0500 From: Chris McDermott <mcdermott at draper.com> Subject: dry hop vs. end-of-boil dry hop vs. end-of-boil A question: A friend of mine, who has no net access, wants to know: What will give a beer more hop aromatics, hopping at the end of the boil, or dry-hopping with an equal amount? Say hopping at the end of the boil means steeping the hops for a few minutes after turning off the gas. Thanks, Chris _ Christopher K. McDermott Internet: mcdermott at draper.com C.S. Draper Laboratory, Inc. Voice: (617) 258-2362 555 Technology Square FAX: (617) 258-1131 Cambridge, MA 02149 (USA) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 09:37:00 PDT From: rstya at map.mda.ca (Roy Styan) Subject: I think I killed my yeast. I am currently brewing a batch of cream ale. It went through an 8 day primary fermentation at 15C. I racked to secondary and let it sit for a couple of days to let the yeast build up before lagering. I seems it still had a lot of fermenting to do, as it built up a strong (for a secondary) ferment. Dispite all warnings from just about every source imaginable, I just chucked the carboy into the fridge and let it cool down to about 1 deg. C. The yeast were not happy. I think I killed them. There weres no signs of life in there. I raised the temp. to 4 deg. C. Still no sign of life. That was over a week ago. What do you guys think? Should I repitch? Raise the temp. back up to 15C and try again? Ignore the probLem? Roy. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 9:59:28 PDT From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com> Subject: HBD 989? Full-Name: "John Cotterill" Could someone please e-mail HBD 989 to me, it got purged on my system by accident. Thanks, JC johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thursday, 15 Oct 1992 13:16:46 EDT From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo) Subject: Re: what is am malt liquor? / beer vs ale etc. >Date: Wed, 14 Oct 92 9:48:49 CDT >From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) >Subject: what is am malt liquor? / beer vs ale etc. >U.S. law imposes certain labeling requirements on the commercial >brewer. A "beer" falls below the above cutoff, while an "ale" >or "malt liquor" fall above. Again, I invite someone with more >knowledge of commercial brewing and the law to add to this. >But, you'll notice, for example, that Old Foghorn labels have >described it as "a barley wine-style ale." I'm guessing that >they must call it an ale by law, and by describing it as a >barley wine style, they are clueing us in as to its strength and >style. What the folks at Anchor told me was that most states require anything labeled "beer" over a certain alcohol strength to also be labeled "malt liquor". So they get around these laws by not using the word "beer" on the stronger brews. Luckily they can use real beer terms, like "ale" or "lager" or "barley wine" or "porter" and accurately describe the product, while still getting around the "beer" laws. Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org) Fidonet: 1:109/131 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 10:30:19 PDT From: rone at alpine.pen.tek.com (Ron Ezetta) Subject: What is Bass Ale? >To emulate Bass Ale, follow the pale ale guidelines and use British >ingredients (malts or extracts, hops) and an appropriate ale yeast. >Anyone have a recipe that is a bass ale knockoff? I've been experimenting with a recipe from the Cat's Meow - here's the latest. 7 lbs 2-row (Infusion) 1 lb Dark Brown sugar 1 lb Crystal - 40L 1 oz Perle (60 minute boil) 7.6 HBU 1 oz Fuggles (30 minute boil) 5.3 alpha 1 oz Fuggles (15 minute boil) 5.3 alpha 1/2 oz Willamette (seep) 1/2 oz Willamette (dry hop) Wyeast #1028 British #2 This recipe has taken on a "Northwest" style - that is, more hop flavor and aroma than the bottled, mishandled, product that we drink over here. Folks from the UK have pointed out that I *really* don't know the true flavor of Bass. I agree and look forward to hop (no pun) the Atlantic and try a couple of properly pulled pints. With that in mind - a closer approximation of Bass would replace the Willamette hops with the seeping of 1 oz Fuggles. Of all the experimenting, the biggest change came with the use of Wyeast #1028 which seems to give a more reasonable reproduction of Bass than my former stand-by, Whitbread dry. The two yeasts, yield two very different beers. The Wyeast #1028, produces a beer with more caramel and malt flavors. While Whitbread dry, lets the hops come through with a vengeance. Next time I plan to ferment using #1028 at ~65F degrees rather than the 72F of my last effort. I've made this beer using all-grain, and extract (Stienbart's American Light - which is suppose to be 100% 2-row), and have detected very little difference. This recipe, and its variations, have help enlighten me in the ways of hop schedules, fermentation temperatures, and yeasts. I have more fun with this beer than any other. -Ron Ezetta- Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 14:31:59 EDT From: mcglew at sde.mdso.vf.ge.com (McGlew Raymond) Subject: On-line homebrew tasting The GEnie system has an on-line beer tasting every Sat night on their network with beers chosen ahead of time, ocasionally homebrews. It is in their Food and Wine area. As I work for GE, NOT GEnie, amended disclaimers apply. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 14:50:19 EDT From: "Joe McCauley" <mccauley_je at vnet.ibm.com> Subject: BAA Yesterday I heard a third-hand report of some difficulties they're having at Beer Across America. (For those of you who are not familiar with BAA, it is a mail-order service you can "subscribe" to, in which every so often (once a month?) they send you a six-pack of a beer from some microbrewery (a different one each time) and a bill for something like $12.95 including shipping. While this may seem a bit expensive for a six-pack of beer, it's worth it to many subscribers if most of the beers are not available in their areas.) The problem they're having is, you might say, one of being too successful for their own good. They've had so many respondents subscribe to the service that the amount of beer they have to ship out each round has gotten quite huge. So huge that many smaller brewers, the ones they had most hoped to give visibility to through the service, are unable to produce a full shipment of beer for the BAA. So the BAA sends out mostly beers from the relatively larger microbreweries. Although I am not currently a BAA subscriber, I like the idea and would like to see it succeed. Perhaps they could develop a system where they don't send the same beer to every subscriber every month. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 15:12:44 EDT From: "Peter J. Burke" (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Flatulence, Why worry about it ? There have been quite a few articles recently about flatulence and beer drinking. Are people worried about getting a gas attack from a fine homebrew ? Why worry ? There is no greater pleasure in life than to kick back after a fine stout or porter and let a few rip. Not only will it clear your mind and bowels out, it can also serve as an effective weapon against boorish non-brewer types who's presense is not wanted. Does anyone know of the type of brew that will create the best farts ? I know that porters and stouts work for me. I would be willing to experiment with another type if anyone knows of a good recipe. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 15:12:44 EDT From: "Peter J. Burke" (FSAC-PMD) <pburke at PICA.ARMY.MIL> Subject: Flatulence, Why worry about it ? There have been quite a few articles recently about flatulence and beer drinking. Are people worried about getting a gas attack from a fine homebrew ? Why worry ? There is no greater pleasure in life than to kick back after a fine stout or porter and let a few rip. Not only will it clear your mind and bowels out, it can also serve as an effective weapon against boorish non-brewer types who's presense is not wanted. Does anyone know of the type of brew that will create the best farts ? I know that porters and stouts work for me. I would be willing to experiment with another type if anyone knows of a good recipe. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 14:34 CDT From: iepubj!korz at ihlpa.att.com Subject: Alie oops. I wrote: >Perhaps, but this conflicts directly with Noonan's claim that if yeast >is given a high-glucose environment, they shut down their maltose >(di- and tri- saccharide, I mean) metabolism pathways in lieu of (as you >said) the "easy sugars." Noonan suggests that yeast raised in a high-glucose >environment will take some time to re-start their di- and tri-saccharide >pathways, resulting in longer lag times. > >However, Bob Jones has reported *no increase in lag times* from switching >to sucrose starters and Micah gets 2 hour lag times (see below), so perhaps >this is an error in Noonan's book? Offline, Spencer pointed out that I goofed. I guess I was rushing and got cocky and sloppy. Sucrose is, in fact, a di-saccharide (it is a glucose and a fructose bonded together). What I should have simply said was: >Noonan's claim that if yeast is given a high-glucose environment, they >shut down their maltose metabolism pathways in lieu of (as Micah said) >the "easy sugars," glucose and fructose. As I mentioned before, Bob Jones and Micah have, empirically, proven that this may not be a big a deal as Noonan suggests. Sorry for the goofup. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 17:00:37 -0600 From: hinkens at macc.wisc.edu Subject: Re: Insulating my boiling pot? My brew-friends and I brew 15 gallon batches of beer in an old stainless steel half-barrel with the top cut off. We have a Cajun Cooker, but as you have probably read in the digest, it can consume a lot of propane during a 90 minute boil! We discovered that if we simply wrap a sheet of heavy duty aluminum foil around the brewpot, we capture a lot more heat from the flame. We do not wrap it tightly. We use a piece of foil long enough to make it all the way around the pot with about a foot extra. We crunch the ends together (to make a seam from top to bottom) and make it just tight enough to stay put. We place it low enough to extend below the bottom of the pot. I think this works so well because it creates a "chimney-effect" which draws the hot air up the side of the vessel (between the foil and the keg). It works very well, we can really turn down the heat and maintain a very rapid boil. A method such as this could be adapted for stove top boils as well... -Jay Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 1992 15:59:20 -0300 From: norman at octopus.wr.usgs.gov Subject: polyclar I have a small packet of polyclar that I'm thinking of using on a batch of weat beer to control/eliminate chill haze. Has anyone had any experience with the stuff? How much do you use? When do you add it? Does it work? I heard that it's made of micro-particles of plastic -- is that true? In need of clarification, Norm Maher Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Oct 1992 20:34:02 -0400 (EDT) From: KLIGERMAN at herlvx.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: calcium chloride In regard to the posting on the use of calcium chloride, I fail to see its value in brewing since it would add twice as much chloride for each ion of calcium added. Since it is used as a dehydrating and dehumidifying agent, it would be hard to get an accurate weight unless it was completely dry. If I remember my basic chemistry correctly, if the molecular weight of CaCl2 is 111, then for every 111 mg/liter of CaCl2 added to 1 liter of water (assuming complete solubility), you would obtain 40 ppm Ca++ and 71 ppm cl-. It seems like adding CaCO3 would be a better choice. From Zymurgy vol.14 #5 p.30; one gram/gallon of CaCO3 would give you 107 ppm Ca++ and 159 ppm CO3-- if completely dissolved. If I am wrong in my assumptions, please correct me. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 19:15 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Windbags To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: "Bob Jones" <bjones at novax.llnl.gov> Subject: Remarks from MICAH,MICAH,MICAH,MICAH !!!!!!!! >> I was referring to the optical transparency which I can appreciate and not >> the taste which I have trouble appreciating. >Jack, I counldn't resist this one. I, and most other homebrewers, while appreciating the appearance of our beers, even more appreciate the taste, with which (i hope) we have no trouble. Normally, I wouldn't bother responding to a rhetorical joke but this one is as devoid of humor as it is devoid of facts so I will use it as an opportunity to give a little sermon. It is the ribbon mongers and identity insecure that are hung up on appearance. When did I ever write word one about the color of my beer? In fact, it was all the certified experts that refused to accept my Generic Ale as a style and it drives them wild to this day. People whine incessantly here about the clarity or lack of in their beer but if I suggest that my first lager seems clearer than my past ales, I get a lecture relating to some previous discussion about "clean" beer. Now, you tell me that I am hung up on appearance. >Perhaps if you brewed something other than the WGB or ARF the taste would be more to your liking and you wouldn't have to relie on appearances, after all they can be deceiving. How can you possibly suggest that I would make beer that I do not like? Finally, appreciating the subtile taste differences in beers is hardly in the same catagory as reconginzing optical transparency. That fact that I am not capable of detecting many of the flavors or have a poor taste memory, is not to say that I therefore brew for clarity. I would drink water if that were the case. On the other hand, I suspect the reason so much is made of the color of different styles is precisely because it is so much easier to learn to judge and most of the instant experts created by the judging program probably are capable of not much more. I suspect it takes years if not decades to train the taster and most of the people who claim to be experts are just insecure windbags. js ZZ  Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 92 23:28:30 -0400 From: cook at uars.DNET.NASA.GOV (Chris Cook, NMOS Quality Engineer - (301)386-7807) Subject: Small Batches I've got a problem with my beer brewing, and I think it's a problem many of you will have seen, too. I've been brewing extract batches for years. You're all familiar with the standard, 5-gallon a batch brewing schedule I've been following. I've recently taken up all-grain; that's been fun too, and after 5 batches, I'm even more interested in the possibilities. Here's the rub. Recently we've all heard about the Belgian malts, with names like Caravienne, Special B, Biscuit and such. Sound interesting to you? It does to me. I want them, and I want them badly. I want to try a batch with 5# pilsner and 4# Caravienne, just to see, or add significant amounts of Aromatic malt to a batch and breath deeply over it, or try the wheat malt with a little Munich, or maybe I should start with the Pale as the base instead of the Pilsner. Or, or, or. Lots of possibilities. Way too many. My problem's simple economics: I can't afford to become an alcoholic. Sorry, but it's just not in my budget. These 5-gallon batches are fine for beers that I know I like, but they're way too much for simple experimentation. I already brew too much beer that's technically good but uninteresting to me personally. To cut the risks of too much bad beer I've depended on lots of recipes. I have to thank people for the loan of their expertise, but I want to find some of this stuff out for myself. I want to try a batch with a little of that neat stuff, a little more and finally with lots, but I don't want to take 3 years to get rid of the stuff if I was wrong. How have other people had this problem? Seems like everyone would. I know that after years I've found recipes I like, but I don't want to spend several more years just scratching the surface of these new malts. Patience, I seem to keep saying, is not my long suit. My first thought was to share like crazy. Too expensive, although very popular. Then I thought about charging my costs (pretty low) but the thought of that much brewing gives me hives. The option that appeals to me more is to start brewing a lot of experimental, 1-gallon batches. Has anyone else worked this way? I'm running blind here, and if anyone's worked out some of the pitfalls, I'd love to hear them. Do you just scale all the ingredients by 5? Doesn't seem like it'd be that easy, but maybe. Yeast pitching rates? I figure to divide a Wyeast package (using my standard starter) into 5 or more; any complications or precautions are welcome. Any obvious changes in technique? That seems relative unchanged, but who knows. As an aside, does anyone know a source for gallon glass bottles? (Near Washington, DC) Mashing gets simpler, I guess, but all my stuff assumes at least 5 pounds of grain. I expect the 44 quart cooler/lauter tun will get cumbersome quickly, for example. Jack, you're Easymash may be the best bet. The big question is simple. Am I trading away quality by working in such small batches? Opinions are always welcome, and experience even more so. Dive on in. As an aside, does anyone have a source for the Belgian malts on the right coast? Near DC, preferably, but the eastern seaboard is close enough. I'm trying to save shipping, and since they to come in this way anyway, there should be someone east of Chicago with the stuff. I've gone on too long. Talk at you later. Chris Cook cook at uars.dnet.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #992, 10/16/92