FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Hops, Fruits/Racking off thee trub/London bottle shops (Conn Copas)
  Funky, Break and Dew Point ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  NOTE 05/25/93 09:05:50 (WAUTS)
  3rd Annual Southport Beer Festival (     Thomas L. Stolfi    wauts)
  The rise of Bud in Ireland (Bud and European drinkers  25-May-1993 1011 -0400)
  South East Suppliers (Elaine Boris)
  Manhatten Brewing Company (Daniel Roman)
  Sparge efficiency relative to flow rate (man)
  _Brewing Techniques_ ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Cold break separation (Raymond M. Yurick)
  Starter? (ROB WILSON)
  Christmas Beers ("Tom Stolfi")
  Christmas Beers (Tom Stolfi                                   Tom Stolfi - CWE1IIN)
  Re: efficiency and sparge rate (larryba)
  Re: Galanga (Jeff Frane)
  RE: soot on Stainless steel pot problem (davidr)
  Bud in Ireland (Ulick Stafford)
  SS reactivity (korz)
  Beer in europe (jason)
  Death of Rumor--There is NO Bud in Germany (Richard Akerboom)
  Solution to Soot and a Thank You (weissborn)
  Fermenter Geometry/Sierra Nevada (John Cotterill)
  Soot on stainless (Keith A. MacNeal HLO1-1/T09 DTN 225-6171  25-May-1993 1644)
  kegs in fridges (Paul Boor)
  Sparging efficiency (Josh Grosse)
  Beer Bread with Machine (Mark Garetz)
  soot on pots (Bill Fuhrmann)
  GABF Ad Claims (thomas ciccateri)
  Sweetport recipe and Hoegaa ("Steve Lovett")
  Porter recipe (Tom Kaltenbach)
  secondary fermentations and fruit ("Tom Childers")


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 93 12:01:07 BST
From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at lut.ac.uk>
Subject: Hops, Fruits/Racking off thee trub/London bottle shops

Spencer writes:

"I've noticed that dry-hopping often results in a "grassy" or "herbal"
taste that diminishes quickly with time.  Sort of like chewing on raw
hops."

I actually find this more with large amounts of certain bittering hops;
Hallertauer in particular. My best guess is that this could be due to
chlorophyl content, which is responsible for the green colour. My home dried
hops (at room temperature) go brown without seeming to lose their aroma,
presumably because I use neither forced drying nor sulphur dusting.

Lee writes:

"My current understanding of racking off the trub is that one should pitch
into the chilled wort and rack a few hours later.  This gives the yeast
the opportunity to use some component of the trub which it needs in the
beginning stage of fermentation and not provide the materials that the yeast
uses later in fermentation to produce fusel alcohols."

This is a perennial issue and I don't have the definitive answer either.
However, my understanding of the chemistry is that many fermentation
byproducts, such as fusel oil and esters, are produced during the yeast
_respiration_ phase. At this point, the yeast requires oxygen to reproduce,
most homebrewed worts contain suboptimal levels of dissolved oxygen, so it's a
reasonable bet that the yeast will attempt to extract oxygen from the trub, and
produce fusel oil in the process. Whether it will show more or less preference
for the trub is one of HBD's great controversies. For the yeast to metabolise
trub during the secondary requires it to switch from anaerobic to aerobic
fermentation (yes?), which strikes me as unlikely under normal conditions.

Does anyone know of any decent bottle shops in London, specialising in imported
beers? E-mail responses might be best. 

- -- 
Conn V Copas
Loughborough University of Technology          tel : +44 509 263171  ext 4164
Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre     fax : +44 509 610815      
Leicestershire  LE11 3TU              e-mail - (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut   
G Britain                                      (Internet):C.V.Copas at lut.ac.uk


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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 10:05:42 EDT
From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu>
Subject: Funky, Break and Dew Point

Jack Schmidling writes:
 >  However, I would suggest that if you have air conditioning, it
 >  would be far more effective and simple just to place your
 >  fermenter in front of the A/C or air duct.

I'm not sure about this.   Putting the fermenter in front of the A/C,
you get a blast of cold, followed by warming, followed by a blast of
cold, ....  Sitting in the corner with a wet T-shirt on, you get
continual gentle cooling.  (Of course, the difference may be
irrelevant, given the thermal mass of 5 gallons of beer.)

=S

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Date: 25 May 1993 09:05:09 GMT
From: WAUTS at CWEMAIL.ceco.com
Subject: NOTE 05/25/93 09:05:50


From:      Thomas L. Stolfi    wauts at cwemail.ceco.com
Subject:   3rd Annual Southport Beer Festival

Brewmasters Pub proudly announces the 3rd Annual Southport Beer Festival.
The festival is to be held in the Bier Garten at Brewmasters Pub on June
19th between 2:00pm and 9:00pm.  Brewmasters is located at 4017 80th St in
Kenosha, WI (Phone: 414-694-9050), for directions send private email.
The purchase price is $14/advance or $16/door (advance purchase guarantees
commemorative mug)and includes unlimited beer tasting. For those requiring
solid nutrition you will be happy to know that a pig will be roasted.  The
following list of breweries are to participate (there may be some last
minute changes):

Adlerbrau ------------- Appleton, WI
Boston Beer Co.(tm) --- Boston, Mass
Brewmasters' ---------- Kenosha, WI
Broadripple ----------- Indianapolis, IN
Calumet Brewery ------- Chilton, WI
Capital --------------- Middleton, WI
Cherryland Brewing ---- Sturgeon Bay, WI
Chicago Brewing ------- Chicago, IL
Lakefront ------------- Milwaukee, WI
Sprecher Brewing ------ Milwaukee, WI
Water Street Brewery -- Milwaukee, WI
Weinkeller ------------ Chicago, IL

For anybody wishing to stay overnight a list of hotels is available, send
request via private email.

Tom Stolfi
wauts at cwemail.ceco.com

















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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 07:16:10 PDT
From: Bud and European drinkers 25-May-1993 1011 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com>
Subject: The rise of Bud in Ireland

There has been a lot of talk about the rise of the popularity Budwieser
beer in Ireland and europe in general.  I've been to Ireland twice recently
and Germany/Austria recently as well and this is the way my Irish friends
have put it.  When the warmer weather comes, the Irish look for brew that
is lighter, and Bud has that appeal.  Many Guinness drinkers switch to Bud
for the summer, and when the cooler weather returns, back to the Guinness.
When the Irish workers get home at 5:30pm, they still have 5 hours of day
light left!  The sun finally sets around 10:30pm or so.  On the other hand,
in the winter it is light by 9am and dark by 4pm (November anyways).  Perhaps
this extended light period during the summer has an effect on the choice
of brew too.

JC

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Date:         Tue, 25 May 93 10:06:02 EDT
From: Elaine Boris <EBORIS at UGA.CC.UGA.EDU>
Subject:      South East Suppliers

My local homebrew supplier is actually a natural foods grocery and their
selection is VERY limited. I would like know if anyone can suggest a
good mail order supplier in my area.    TIA ( Thanks in advance ), E.

Elaine Boris                                  Student Information Systems
Computer Services Specialist                  University of Georgia
706 542-0484                                  Athens  Georgia

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 10:26:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: roman at tix.timeplex.com (Daniel Roman)
Subject: Manhatten Brewing Company

I've recently been made aware by a friend that the Manhattan Brewing
Company has reopened (last week?) under entirely new management (it 
closed in 91).  They produce up to six different types of beers and ales
on premises and the theme there is beer.  Even the food makes extensive
use of beer in the recipes and/or is used to compliment the different
beer styles.  The address is 23 Watts St., between Thompson and Broadway
I believe.

I have not been there yet but I know someone who knows the Manager so
this info is 2nd or 3rd hand.  I hope to get there soon, anyone work in
the Canal St. area of NYC willing to do a scouting mission?

Also, does anyone have the address of the fellow who keeps the publist
file on sierra?  I seem to have misplaced it.  I'd like to make sure he
gets this updated info.
- -- 
_________
Dan Roman  GEnie: D.ROMAN1  Internet: roman at tix.timeplex.com  //
American Homebrewers Association member        Only AMIGA!  \X/

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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 10:15:35 EDT
From: man at lcwdw1.att.com
Subject: Sparge efficiency relative to flow rate

Subject: Re: efficiency and sparge rate

This past weekend I experimented with my sparge rate to see if speeding it up
would result in reduced yield.  I normally make 12 to 13 gallon batches in a
converted keg mash tun with stainless false bottom. I always have to control
the flow with a valve or I would sparge 15 gallons in 20 minutes. I usually
restrict the flow to force the time to 2.5 to 3 hours.  At this rate, my
yields were generally 27-30 pts/lb/gal.  I used a tried and true recipe for
a session beer - Neshanic Bitter (1.039). This time the sparge lasted only one
hour to claim 15 gallons. I boiled it down to 13+ with a OG of 1.040. My yield
was 29.7 which I am quite pleased with. I will continue to experiment with 
this sparge rate. 

For the recipe hungry:

Neshanic Bitter (Recipe for 13 gallons)

16.0 lbs DeWolf-Cosyns Pale Ale
  .9 lbs DeWolf-Cosyns Cara Munich
  .6 lbs DeWolf-Cosyns Wheat
 8.5 gal mash water  at  175 F (a little to hot for this much grain, try 5 F less)
 1   Tbsp gypsum in mash. Mash for 1 hour. Recycle 1 quart.
 8.5 gal sparge water  at  180 F. Acidified with 10cc 88% lactic acid.
75   min boil
22.4 AAU Northern Brewer Whole Hops (60 minutes)
Counter-flow chilled
Wyeast Chico (second generation)
Fermenting  at  65 F.

Misc:
Grains weighed on Hobart deli scale.
Grains cracked in roller mill.
SG derived from refractometer, confirmed with hydrometer.


Mark Nevar

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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 10:53:02 EDT
From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu>
Subject: _Brewing Techniques_

My issue of Brewing Techniques came yesterday.  Looks pretty good, I
think I'll spring the $24 to help keep it in business.  In this issue:

"Factors affecting hop production, hop quality, and brewer
preference," A. Haunold and G. Nickerson
    I haven't finished this one, but it includes some gas
    chromatograms showing "hop oils" in a few varieties.

"Belgian malts: some practical observations," G. Fix
    George does test batches.  Includes charts with color, diastatic
    power, etc.  Conclusion: the specialty malts are unique, the
    regular malts are very good, with slight flaws.

"Reinheitsgebot and the fifth ingredient," M. Schiller
    Bacteria and how to keep 'em out.

"Thinking about Beer Recipe Formulation," D. Richman Darryl describes
    how he put together his award-winning "Bock Aasswards" recipe.
    (Side note: it claims here he has a Bock book coming out soon.)  I
    would like it if this became a (semi-)regular feature, probably
    with various contributors.  (Hint: send in your contributions.
    I've seen some HBD postings that would do nicely in this slot.)

"Spreadsheet for Recipe Design," K. King
    Haven't read it yet.

Articles are classified as "Feature" (cover story, 1st above),
"Technical Articles" (2 & 3 above), and "Brewers' Forum" (4 & 5 above). 

Columns (and therefore regular features, I assume):
"The troubleshooter," D. Miller
    The obvious thing, but more in depth than the "prof" in Zymurgy.

"Brewing in Styles," R. Bergen
    (This column will feature "guest brewers".)  This month is
    American Wheat Beers.  Talks about mashing & sparging techniques,
    as well as stylistic points.  Some points aimed specifically at
    the professional (microbrewer) audience, e.g., reference to lauter
    tuns with rakes.

The letters section, "Technical communications," looks very much like
some of the better articles in the HBD (and includes a couple of HBD
regulars in this issue).

All in all, a good effort.  This single issue has almost more
information content than a whole year of Zymurgy!  Well, maybe I
exaggerate.  And Zymurgy has its points, too: a profusion of recipes,
a chatty style, and lots more ads.  (I assume this will change.)  

Brewing Techniques has a much sparer, cleaner, more professional
"look" to it, which is appropriate to a publication of this sort.
It's very readable, and shows good attention to look as well as
content.  Of course, there were a few typos, but not nearly as many as
some other brewing magazines I could mention.

[Imagine standard disclaimer here.]

=Spencer W. Thomas 		|  Info Tech and Networking, B1911 CFOB, 0704
   "Genome Informatician"	|  Univ of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109
Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu	|  313-764-8065, FAX 313-764-4133

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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 10:58:55 -0400
From: br035 at cleveland.Freenet.Edu (Raymond M. Yurick)
Subject: Cold break separation



js writes (on cold break separation)

>I also suspect the whole discussion is irrelevant to those of us using 
> imersion chillers as the hot/cold break is conveniently left behind in the 
> kettle when the chilled wort is drawn off.

Actually, immersion chillers do not give a well-defined cold break due
to the more gradual temperature drop. 

Ray Yurick

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Date: 25 May 1993 09:59:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: ROB WILSON <WILSONRS at VAX1.Winona.MSUS.EDU>
Subject: Starter?

I want to make a yeast starter for my next batch, the problem is that I 
dont have any DME to make it with. Can I just use a corn sugar/water 
solution. If so who much water and corn sugar. Also is it true the more 
sugar the higher the yeast count. I use dry yeast, does this take longer to 
start? How long do you leave the starter before pitching? 
Thanks to every one who helped me with the equipment question. I got some 
from from Glenwood spring water for only $8.(carboys) The bottles I will 
just have to look for.

E-mail me..

Thanks in Advance
Rob Wilson         wilsonrs at vax2.winona.msus.edu

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Date: 25 May 1993 09:21:09 GMT
From: "Tom Stolfi" <WAUTS at CWEMAIL.ceco.com>
Subject: Christmas Beers

From: Tom Stolfi                                   Tom Stolfi - CWE1IIN
Subject: Christmas Beers

Hello All,

I am going to make a BIG Christmas beer this year and I am starting to compile
my recipes.  If you have a recipe you are willing to share (Ho Ho Ho, tis the
season of giving) or any advice on spices and such a response would be
greatly appreciated.  Thanks in advance.

Tom Stolfi
wauts at cwemail.ceco.com

p.s. If I get a lot of response I will compile a list and post to the HBD.










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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 11:57:03 -0400
From: polstra!larryba at uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Re: efficiency and sparge rate

Inm HBD #3321 you write:

>Is there a relationship between extraction efficiency and
>sparge rate.  I seem to remember some previous
>dialog on this but don't remember what the concensus was.

Chuck: I have sparged a 5 gallon batch (collected 6.5 gal) 
from less than 20 minutes to over 90 minutes. I have not noticed
much difference in the efficiency.  Now, however, with a 
poor crush or poor lauter geometry I have seen wide variations
in my sparge efficiency.  Actually, I don't know much about 
geometry other than I typically get 100% of the expected extract
with my two rigs (false bottom plastic bucket with drum tap, 
and a 1/2 bbl keg and a 8" slotted copper ring for the filter -
that is my new, fancy, 10 gal brewery).  I do have experience with
poor crushes: ones done by a coffee grinder (lots of whole grains
and flour) lauter middling ok, but poor extract, ones done by a 
roller mill set too close: lots of flour, incredible slow sparge
and excellent extract.  A proper crush with a roller mill (or
corona) lauters very fast and I still get 100% extract.  BTW,
the corona will give you more flour and a slower sparge, but
other than that does a very credible job of crushing grain
when set properly.

If you have poor extract rates and suspect your geometry you
can try the technique (I can't remember who tried this first,
I think maybe Martin Lodahl) where you drain the first runnings,
add all the sparge water, stir, let settle and drain again.
that should remove any geometrical considerations (channeling, etc.)

Cheers!

- -- 
Larry Barello			uunet!polstra!larryba

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 09:10:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Re: Galanga

Lord knows why anyone would put Galanga into a brew, but... As has been
pointed out, galanga is used in southeast Asian cooking, primarily Thai
and Vietnamese.  It is a relative of ginger (so it is NOT a root, but a
rhyzome), but it is MUCH MUCH more expensive.  It is available fresh in
any Vietnamese grocery store, but the odds are a beverage recipe really
requires dried, powdered galanga.  In this form, it's more likely to be
called "laos" (like the country).  Although related to ginger, it
doesn't taste at all like it, and ginger really wouldn't be a
substitute.

And, come to think of it, dried galanga/laos isn't all that expensive,
just the fresh stuff.

And while you're in there rooting around, try to find me a supply of
kaffir lime peel (dried).

- --Jeff Frane


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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 09:38:28 PDT
From: davidr at ursula.ee.pdx.edu
Subject: RE: soot on Stainless steel pot problem

>My problem is that after the wort boils and I turn the cooker down to maintain
>a nice rolling boil, the flame is very yellow (presumably because the gas/air
>mix is off) and soot forms on the bottom of my expensive new Stainless steel
>pot.
>
>Have any others experienced this problem and is there a good solution?
 
I learned this trick in boyscouts while backpacking.  
Cooking on an open fire seems to ALWAYS accumulate soot on the
bottoms of your pans.  The solution?  Place a thin film of dish
detergent on the pan bottom.  Although, the soot still
accumulates, it washes off easily with water.  (Of course you
are going to have to scrub real well with steel wool or something
similar to remove the soot that has already accumulated... but
after that, if you use this method, its easy street.)
 
 -David Robinson
davidr at ee.pdx.edu
 

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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 12:13:34 EST
From: Ulick Stafford <ulick at davinci.helios.nd.edu>
Subject: Bud in Ireland

In hbd1147 Tim Murray mentioned seeing lots of empty Bud cans on a train
being drunk by Irish Football fans.  There is much that should be known
about this.  Firstly, anyone who has travelled by train anywhere knows
that the selection of beers can leave a little to be desired (it is
interesting to note that the selection improves alot when crossing the
Canadian border at Port Huron/Sarnia, but that is another story).
Secondly, Budweiser produced in Ireland (by Guinness at the Smithwicks
plant in Kilkenny) has been acclaimed by Americans who have drank it as
tasting like a beer (as agianst how it tastes here).  It is produced to
normal Irish strength (4.3% - a bit weker than here), which probably
improves its balance.
Thirdly.  It is normally priced (in cans anyway) the same or cheaper than
other lagers, and it is possible it was being drunk because it was cheap.

Ulick Stafford


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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 12:59 CDT
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: SS reactivity

Don writes:
>the best and most complete source of info on the reactivity of various
>acids, salts, bases and whatever with various metals, plastics, rubbers
>is in the back of the Granger catalog.

`Fraid not Don... a more complete source of reactivity is in the back of
the Cole-Palmer catalog, but I won't go so far as to say that it is the
most complete source.

>for example, household bleach does not react with 304 and 316 stainless.
>however, no info is available on 302 and 440 although its very unlikely
>you will find pots or kegs made with these.

According to the Cole-Palmer reactivity chart, both "Chlorine Water" and
"Sodium Hypochlorite (<20%)" are listed as "Moderate Effect" for 316 and
304 Stainless Steel and "Severe Effect" for 440 Stainless Steel.  While
we're at it, it also says that there is a "Severe Effect" with "Cast Bronze,"
"Cast iron," "Aluminum" and "Carbon/Ceramic".  Copper is not listed, but
I strongly suspect that it, too, is reactive with both "Chlorine Water" and
"Sodium Hypochlorite (<20%)."

>there are many other interesting items.  e.g,. BEER doesn't react with
>much of anything (thank god) except a little with brass and polyethylene,
>a little more with silicon and quite severely with cast iron and poly-
>propylene.

Strange, in the Cole-Palmer chart, "Beer" has "No Effect" on Polyethylene,
Silicon or Polypropylene.

>honestly, the table is an array about 400x30.

Honestly, the Cole-Palmer table is about 550X40, but it still is not the
most complete I've seen -- just the most complete I have here at arm's length.

Al.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 10:38:36 -0700
From: jason at beamlab.ps.uci.edu
Subject: Beer in europe


Sorry about this request (I know these things bug the crapola
out of some of you), but I tried to retrieve the information
from the archives via ftp and my computer (or I) couldn't 
hack it.

Where is great beer to be found and what no way to be missed beer
sites are there in:

Brussels
Munich
Amsterdam
and possibly other parts of Germany?

please respond via private e-mail by today

thank you very much, and have a glorious day.


Jason


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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 09:21:09 EST
From: boomer at sylsoft.com (Richard Akerboom)
Subject: Death of Rumor--There is NO Bud in Germany


There is NO Anheuser-Busch Budweiser in Germany. A message a few weeks
ago started this rumor, but the author was confusing the original,
Czech Budvar (called Budweiser in German because of the German name
for the city) with the cheap imitation we get here in the states.
I emailed the author to find out, and he now realizes his mistake.
This also explains the high price he quoted.

If Anheuser-Busch were to import US Bud, they would have to change
the name, as the Czechs have the rights to the name in Europe. At
least until A-B buys them out, which I hope never happens.

Rich

- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Richard Akerboom       Domain: boomer at sylsoft.com or akerboom at dartmouth.edu
Sylvan Software          uucp: dartvax!sylsoft!boomer
Mechanic St.            Phone: 802-649-2231
P. O. Box 566             FAX: 802-649-2238
Norwich, VT 05055 USA 

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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 18:58:15 GMT
From: weissborn at dfwdsr.SINet.SLB.COM
Subject: Solution to Soot and a Thank You

> Subject: soot on Stainless steel pot problem
> 
> 
> I just got a "King Kooker" propane burner.  As many of you have also found 
out,
> a home gas stove makes it difficult to get 7 gallons of wort to a boil.
> My problem is that after the wort boils and I turn the cooker down to maintain
> a nice rolling boil, the flame is very yellow (presumably because the gas/air
> mix is off) and soot forms on the bottom of my expensive new Stainless steel
> pot.
> 
> Have any others experienced this problem and is there a good solution?
> 
> - --Tony Verhulst

Looks like you were never in the Scouts, Tony 8-)  The soot problem can be 
solved
by dampening a bar of soap and then rubbing it over the bottom and sides.  When
you cleanup 95-100% of the soot will come off since it is "stuck" to the soap
and not to the pot.

Thanks to all who replied about my 1st batch problems.  At the suggestion of 
several folks I took another gravity reading.  The O.G. ( at 90f) was .1112
the reading I got a few days ago was .1042( at 74f) (I wish I could find my 
temperature adjustment chart).  The feeling at the local brew shop is that it
is close to finished although it still tastes a little sweet.  I am planning
to take another reading tonight and will probably bottle tomorrow.

Thanks again for the advice.
Bill Weissborn
weissborn at dfwvx1.dallas.geoquest.slb.com


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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 13:40:49 PDT
From: John Cotterill <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Fermenter Geometry/Sierra Nevada

1)  I have been doing some experiments fermenting in 5 gal glass carboys and
    5 gal SS soda kegs.  I have found that the beers in the soda kegs all take
    much longer to ferment out.  I think it is do to the geometry.  Has
    anyone else noticed this?  I have heard of some people fermenting in
    Sankey (sp?) kegs.  I dont know what a Sankey keg is, but I am guessing
    that is is a regular beer keg.  If so, how in the heck do you make
    sure they are clean?  I want to use SS especially since I can use pressure
    to transfer the beer instead of syphons.  And a standard beer keg has
    a geometry similar to a carboyu.  Anyone have any experience fermenting
    in Sankey/beer kegs?

2)  I have spent the last year trying to make a Sierra Nevada PA clone.  I 
    really have not even come close although the attempts have resulted in  
    some mighty tasty beers.  I have a pretty poor sense of taste which is
    complicating my efforts.  It seems to me that Sierra Nevada Pale Ale
    uses lots of flavoring hops with low bittering hops - just an
    un-educated guess.  Can anyone shed some light on the hop profile for
    SNPA and perhaps even suggest a recipe.

Thanks!
JC
johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com

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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 16:46:32 EDT
From: Keith A. MacNeal HLO1-1/T09 DTN 225-6171 25-May-1993 1644 <macneal at pate.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Soot on stainless

Here's a little trick I picked up in Boy Scouts many years ago.  To make 
soot easy to remove from the outside of pans that have been used over a
campfire (or a yellow flamed Cajun Cooker), coat the outside of the pan with
soap.  You can either coat it in liquid dish detergent or rub a bar of soap
all over the outside.  The soot will simply rinse off with the soap at cleaning
time.

Keith MacNeal
Digital Equipment Corp.
Hudson, MA

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 14:22:53 -0600
From: Paul Boor <PBOOR at beach.utmb.edu>
Subject: kegs in fridges

	In reference to fridges or freezers and the cold air falling out when
you open the door, I finally broke down and installed a stem tap through the
door of the keg fridge.  It is the thrill of a lifetime, drilling a hole
through the fridge door!  It was so much fun (and the tap looked so much more
professional than fumbling inside with the hoses) that I sprung for two more. 
I justify the cost by the electric I will save during the 10 month Galveston
summer, not opening the door to draw a beer.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 17:34:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: jdg at cyberspace.org (Josh Grosse)
Subject: Sparging efficiency

In HBD 1148, chuckm at pbn73.cv.com asked about the relationship between 
sparge time and extract efficiency.

My answer using English 2-row pale malt:

    45 minute sparge = 27 pts / gallon.

    2.5 hour sparge =  34 pts / gallon.

I've been using a grain bag in a BruHeat as a combined mash/lauter tun.  I
have found that I get the clearest run-off and slowest drain rate by lowering
the level of wort until the grain bed compacts.  Recirculating before this
happens has no effect.  Once the grain bed has compacted, it clears the
runoff almost instantly.  Then, I recirculate.  With a compact grain bed, it
takes a long time for the sparge to complete.  I pre-acidify to 5.5-5.7 with
88% lactic acid.

Last fall, Spencer Thomas and I got 33 pts / gallon using a recirculating
mash system.  I don't have the money for such a system myself right now, so
I'll read a book (or catch up on a week's worth of HBDs) while sparging.

- -----------------------------------------------------------------
Josh Grosse                               jdg at grex.cyberspace.org

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1993 10:26:29
From: garetz at brahms.amd.com (Mark Garetz)
Subject: Beer Bread with Machine

Kim Kiesow asks if anyone has made beer bread with a bread machine:

Yes.  My wife makes it all the time.  She just substitutes some of my
homebrew for the water in the recipe, but she microwaves it first.  This is
mainly to warm it up because the machine wants warm water (although I have
yet to figure out why because you can delay the bread start for 12 hours or
more).  The type of beer to use depends a lot on the type of bread you want.
But very bitter beers will make the bread a bit bitter.  My favorite has
been a dark rye made with Porter.  To make the rye dark, she adds cocoa
powder.

Mark from HopTech


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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 17:13:32 CDT
From: fiero at pnet51.orb.mn.org (Bill Fuhrmann)
Subject: soot on pots

|My problem is that after the wort boils and I turn the cooker down to
maintain
|a nice rolling boil, the flame is very yellow (presumably because the gas/air
|mix is off) and soot forms on the bottom of my expensive new Stainless steel
|pot. 
 
The standard camping solution to this is to smear dish washing liquid on
the bottoms and sides of the pot.  Then all the soot just washes off.


Bill Fuhrmann, aka fiero at pnet51.orb.mn.org
                   
"You don't know what you've got till it's gone." - Joni Mitchell  



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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 18:53:13 MDT
From: thomas ciccateri <tciccate at carina.unm.edu>
Subject: GABF Ad Claims



  In the Jan/Feb '93 issue of The New Brewer, Charlie Papazian states that
beginning July 1,1993 the Association of Brewers will enforce the following
rules on participants: Brewers promoting their awards must mention the
category in which the medal was awarded, they must mention the medal won,
and they must tell for which year the medal was won.

	Tom Ciccateri
	University of New Mexico
	Training and Learning Technologies



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Date: 25 May 1993 19:20:12 U
From: "Steve Lovett" <Steve_Lovett at qm.symantec.com>
Subject: Sweetport recipe and Hoegaa

 Subject: Sweetport recipe and Hoegaarden recipe help.
Hi fellow brewors!

A couple of quick questions for you all. Has anyone brewed up Mike Ligas's
recipe "Sweetport Porter" from The Cat's meow II, 5-45? The recipe says it is
for six gallons, but the comments state that the author generally is an all
grain dude. So... does this mean mix up six for a full wort boil that boils down
to apx. five, or does it mean the actual volume of wort after the boil is six
gallons??

Also...  I have grown quite enamored of the coriander-orange peel flavor of
Hoegaarden "White" from Belgium. The current fruit beer thread has me really
itching to brew up something very similar. I have seen Papazian's recipe in
TNCJOHB but it is all barley malt based, and my memory is not what it used to
be, but I'm sure that Hoegaarden is a wheat beer.  I have seen "Grand Cru" kits
 from Brewferm, but the kit thing makes me a little sceptical so any advice  on
reproducing this lovely brew would be most appreciated.

Thanks... Steve Lovett



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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 18:24 EDT
From: tom at kalten.bach1.sai.com (Tom Kaltenbach)
Subject: Porter recipe


As a result of a private request by Keith Schwols, I am submitting the 
recipe for a beer that won first place in the Porter category in last 
month's AHA-sanctioned competetion held by the Upstate New York 
Homebrewers Association (Rochester, New York).  I've included my brewing 
notes, just for kicks.

"Independence Porter" by Tom Kaltenbach (5-gallon recipe)

6.6  lbs  Munton & Fison amber malt extract
0.5  lbs  Munton & Fison light dry malt extract
0.5  lbs  chocolate malt, crushed
2.5  oz   Cascade hops pellets, boiling (55 min) (note:  for 2 oz, alpha = 
          5.4; for 0.5 oz, alpha = 4.7)
0.5  oz   Hallertauer hops pellets, finishing (steep during chilling)
 2  tsp  gypsum
 1  pkg  Whitbread dry ale yeast

Brewing notes:

     The chocolate malt grains were crushed and added to approximately 
one gallon of water and slowly heated.  Before a boil was reached, 
grains were removed and sparged through two strainers, (one coarse and 
one medium).  The malt extract, gypsum, and boiling hops were added and 
boiled for 55 minutes.  About 15 minutes from end of boil, yeast was 
rehydrated by standard method [note:  standard method consists of 
removing 1 ladleful (approx. 1/4 cup) of boiling wort and diluting to 1 
cup with cold water in a sanitized 2-cup Pyrex measuring cup.  It is 
then cool enough to add the yeast immediately.  The Pyrex cup is covered 
with plastic wrap, sealed with a rubber band.]  At end of boil, 
immersion wort chiller was placed into brewpot, the finishing hops was 
added, and the brewpot was removed from the heat.  The pot was 
immediately transferred to the sink and the chilling begun.  The brewpot 
lid was placed over the chiller and the gap between pot and lid was 
sealed with plastic wrap.  After chilling for approximately ten minutes, 
the wort was transferred to the primary, straining out the hops pulp in 
the process.  Wort was diluted to five gallons with jug-aerated water.  
[Note: jug-aerated water refers to the following:  cold tap water is 
added to the fermenter 1/2 gallon at a time to make 5 gallons.  Each 1/2 
gallon is shaken vigorously for 30 - 60 seconds in a sanitized plastic 
gallon jug to aerate.  This may also help dechlorinate the tap water.]  
Some cold tap water was blended with warm to produce a final temperature 
between 65 and 70 degrees in the fermenter.  The yeast was pitched 
immediately.  The original gravity was measured to be 1.060 at approx. 
67 degrees --> 1.061 corrected.  Fermentation was carried out at 
approximately 62 degrees.  Primary fermentation continued to 18-Nov-92, 
when beer was racked to the secondary fermenter.  Batch was kegged on 
7-Dec-92; final gravity:  1.015  at  60 degrees --> 1.015 corrected.  
Alcohol content was computed to be 6.0375% by volume, 4.83% by weight.

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Date: Tue, 25 May 93 19:41:55 PDT
From: "Tom Childers" <TCHILDER at us.oracle.com>
Subject: secondary fermentations and fruit


In HBD 1146, Bryan Kornreich asks
 
> How on Earth do you press your fruity wort (to get the juice out of the pulp)
> with any hint of sterility.
 
I keep my (large wooden) spoon and strainer in the pot during the end of the
boil to sterilize them.  Since the Wheat Berry recipe used a partial boil,
you can just take the implements out, set the strainer on the funnel, and
start pouring the wort.  When the strainer fills with hops and fruit, I
press it with the spoon to extract the last bit of fruit juice, then toss
the strainer contents and repeat the process until all of the wort is in
the carboy.  Then I slap a clean cork in, let it sit for a few hours to get
to pitching temperature, and add about a quart of yeast starter.
 
By the way, I find that sterility is not a huge issue when I use big yeast
starters.  You can never maintain sterility in your cool wort - bacteria are
falling into the stuff at the rate of hundreds or thousands per minute.
Eventually, the yeast will crowd the bacteria out.  However, if you pitch a
small yeast culture, then the bacteria have enough time to create off-
flavors before losing the race.  I build up a very active starter, and
primary fermentation is generally in full swing within a few hours.
 
(Of course, I do keep things very clean, and sanitize the fermenter, siphons,
bottles and caps before using them.  I haven't had a pedococcus infection
yet, knock on wood.  Remember, people have been making beer for thousands
of years...)
 
> would it be a good idea to puree the rasperries and blackberries before
> adding them in order to avoid the pressing step?
 
Pureeing the fruit should work fine, although you may get a cloudier beer
from all of the little pieces of fruit skin in suspension.  You might want
to thaw the frozen berries first  :-)
 
Tom Childers
Mill Valley, CA


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1149, 05/26/93