HOMEBREW Digest #1163 Wed 16 June 1993
Digest #1162
Digest #1164
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Texas Micros & Brewpubs (drwho2959)
Source needed for fritted glass disks (Paul dArmond)
sanitizers part I (donald oconnor)
Maybe a stupid question, but... (Phillip Seitz)
Headaches (Phil Hultin)
COPS in PORTLAND (Stephen Brent Peters)
Yeast and Acid Washes ("John DeCarlo")
mangos & prickly pears (LLAPV)
Homebrew clubs in Baltimore MD (Hal Laurent)
FILTERING (Jack Schmidling)
HOMEBREW Digest Distribution List ("Petrovsky Andrey " )
Stoudts Festival (Jim Busch)
Recipe for Jalapeno Beer (Vincent Heuring)
Large Scale Recipies, Hop Utilization, & In-keg Carbination (Daniel A Conners)
canned beer (John Freeman)
Slugfest in the Sierras (chris campanelli)
Kegging suppllies (Phil Duclos)
Not me in the picture (Mark Garetz)
Hop Oils (Mark Garetz)
Re: Dogbolter (Desmond Mottram)
Re: Refrigeration/Fermenting ("John DeCarlo")
Fullers ESB (Jim Busch)
fermentation?...no not yet. (BadAssAstronomer)
Belgian Beers and Brewpubs-any favorites? (Ethan Mason)
Beer resources on Long Island (Spencer.W.Thomas)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 93 10:18:03 EDT
From: drwho2959 at aol.com
Subject: Texas Micros & Brewpubs
In HBD1160 J.Hutchison<jhutchin at us.oracle.com> writes the following
about Texas micros and brewpubs:
"...good micro beer is not available..."
This is quite simply UNTRUE!! I live in Houston, and frequently
visit several excellent beer bars with literally SCORES of micro
draft taps, including Anchor, Sierra Nevada, August Schell, and
Boston Beer Company products. The Gingerman in Houston was called
"One of the best beer bars in America" by none other than the
famed British beer-hunter, Michael Jackson, in his influential Pocket
Guide to Beer.
Texas micros available include Celis products (the White won a GOLD
MEDAL at the last GABF!), Texas Brewing Co, and (debatably) Shiner
Bock. Several new micros are now in their final planning stages.
The number of Texas micros is likey to double within the next year.
Check the Southwest Brewing News for the latest news on micros.
"...and pub brews are not legal in Texas."
This will become UNTRUE as of Sept. 1, 1993, thanks to the combined
lobbying efforts of The Houston Public News, The Southwest Brewing News,
my Home Brew University BBS system, and concerned homebrewers and beer
lovers all over the state. Several brewpubs are quite far along in their
planning. I expect to see at least 5 operating brewpubs in the Lone Star
State by Jan. 1, 1994. Again, check the Southwest Brewing News for the
latest brewpub news.
"I buy (when my homebrew is gone) Celis bock and Westend Aussie lager
but Texans need ALE!!"
Look around - we already HAVE ale!!
"Is there a 'grassroots' organization loggying Texas legislature to
change the awful anti PUB BREW laws? Sign me up."
The law has already been changed. Next time, try looking around and
finding out what's going on before you start complaining.
*----------------------------------------------------------------------*
| Andrew Patrick |
| SysOp, Houston Correspondent & Distrib. Mgr. |
| Home Brew Univ. BBS Southwest Brewing News |
|(713)465-0265,14.4kbps,V42bis Internet: andinator at delphi.com |
*----------------------------------------------------------------------*
Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1993 07:09:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul dArmond <paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu>
Subject: Source needed for fritted glass disks
I have been developing a set of rubber stamps for marking beer caps (neat
idea huh?) and I'm up against a sourceing problem. The optimum inks for
marking metal are solvent-based and require special stamp pads. The pad
is a small jar about 1" i.d. with a pad of heavy felt that serves as a
reservoir covered by a fritted glass disk that evenly distributes the ink
onto the stamp.
My problem is that these special pads are too expensive to be a good deal
for people that want to use the stamps with the best inks, $5 at in
quantity. I want folks to have the best for the least cost, and this is
too much...
So: Can anybody out there in ScienceLand give me a lead for a source of
fritted glass disks? They are used by glass-blowers for coarse filters
and bubblers (like in gas washing bottles). All I need is an address or
phone # of a supplier (like Corning) for lab glassware parts. If I can
get these cheap enough, I'd like to just toss them in with stamps.
BTW, fritting is a process like sintering metal, but applied to glass.
Powdered glass is heated and then pressed to loosely bond the granules.
The result is a porous piece of glass, like an acquarium bubbler. There
is a more exotic process by which soft soda-glass and quartz powder is
sintered with more pressure and then the soft glass is etched away with
hydrofloric acid yeilding a much finer porosity. The resulting part can
then be slowly heated to fuse the quartz solid. The piece shirnks without
distortion during the fusing and can yeild extremely high mechanical
tolerances. I thought it was the neatest trick in the world.... There,
know you may know something new. I need the crude fritted stuff in 1"
disks.
Thanks for any help
Paul de Armond
paulf at henson.cc.wwu.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1993 11:14:07 -0500
From: donald oconnor <oconnor at ccwf.cc.utexas.edu>
Subject: sanitizers part I
sorry about the reverse order of the 3 parts.
During the ongoing debate about the relative merits of iodine vs chlorine
based sanitizers there has been quite a lot of data provided, some of which
was either misinterpreted or misunderstood. I'll summarize the relevant
data, explain more carefully the misunderstandings, and present some
additional technical information.
Here's a list of the criteria by which to judge a sanitizer for homebrewers.
1. Effectiveness in killing bacteria, etc.
2. Reactivity with materials such as 304 stainless
3. Ease of use
4. Flavor, odor, and other effects of residues
5. Expense, availability
6. Personal safety
The distinction between the 2 sanitizers is most blurry with regard to
items 1 and 2. Making a case for one over the other is much easier when
looking at the other factors.
1. Sanitizing strength
Both chlorine and iodine sanitizers kill bacteria as a result of their
oxidizing power. A strong oxidizer is a good sanitizer. Chlorine in all
its oxidation states (dichlorine, chlorite, hypochlorite, etc) is a
stronger oxidant than the corresponding iodines. In chemical
terms, it is said that the redox potential of chlorine is greater
than iodine. Being a stronger oxidant, chlorine sanitizers are
expected to be more effective at killing bacteria. However
iodine is also a sufficiently strong oxidant to work very
effectively in killing stuff and thus, in a practical sense,
the two cannot be distinguished in this regard.
The recommended dose for iodophor, which contains molecular iodine, is
12.5 mg/l (ppm). Since each iodine atom weighs 4 times as much as
chlorine and it's the number of atoms that is important, then a chlorine
concentration of 3.5 mg/l will give the same sanitizing effect. Household
bleach is about 5% sodium hypochlorite by weight. So how much bleach
do we need in each gallon to get the same sanitizing effect as
iodophor. Incredibly only 0.02 ounce! That's 50 times lower than
1 oz/gallon, 25 times lower than 1 tablespoon/gallon. For those more
familiar with teaspoons, you need only add about 1/2 teaspoon of
bleach in the entire 5 gallon keg to achieve the same level of sanitation
that iodophor provides! Furthermore this concentration is about 70
times below the known safe level for reactivity with 304 stainless.
By the way, both bleach and iodophor need only be applied for 5 or 10
minutes for sanitizing.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 93 17:47 GMT
From: Phillip Seitz <0004531571 at mcimail.com>
Subject: Maybe a stupid question, but...
Like many people I'm paying more attention these days to getting adequate
oxygen levels in my wort prior to fermenation. Some people are using
aquarium pumps and stones for this job, and the current issue of
BREWING TECHNIQUES includes a proposed setup with activated carbon filter
to remove plastic-type flavors that might be induced from the pump and
tubing.
It would seem to me, though, that the primary concern would be the
introduction of bacteria or wild yeasts, since these pumps are really just
inducing a flow of unfiltered outside air. This leads me to two questions:
1) Among the people out there who are using the pump/stone arrangement,
is there any sense that higher levels of infection are a problem?
2) Is there a good filter, say 2-micron, that can easily and cheaply be
put into the tube line to filter out evil organisms?
I was pondering these yesterday when I happened to wander into my local
Trak Auto. Yes, folks, this is probably a stupid idea, but would an in-
line gasoline filter work for this purpose? They're certainly cheap
enough, and come in a zillion varieties that could easily be attached to
the various hoses.
Looking at a few of these I was impressed at how similar they are in
structure to larger-scale brewing filters. However, none was labeled with
the level of filtration provided, and there's always the possibility that
some nasty chemicals might be involved.
Begin a truly non-handy type person, could the more ept (as opposed to
inept) out there provide any comments? Also, do those of you with all
those supply catalogs see any useful alternatives?
Finally, I might add an aside to those who haven't yet considered this
method of aeration: it appears that a new aquarium pump, stone, and tubes
can be had for under $15. In other words, not a big investment for some
potentially quite beneficial results.
Thanks in advance for any comments!
Phil Seitz
PSEITZ at MCIMAIL.COM
Arlington, Virginia
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1993 14:12 EDT
From: Phil Hultin <HULTINP at QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA>
Subject: Headaches
Certainly, the absolute amount of alcohol consumed is the #1 determinant
of headaches and other unpleasant side effects. Nevertheless, I also
have observed that commercial beers in EQUAL amounts produce much worse
effects than homebrews. And, that the products of the large breweries
are worse than those of certain microbreweries which do not add stuff
to their products.
As I am a chemist by profession, I will NOT refer to this stuff as
"C*******s". After all, every substance in everything in the entire
universe is a "C*******". BUT, I know that several of the specific
items added to commercial brews can have adverse effects on certain
individuals - allergic reactions etc. So, I do not see anything
odd in the reports of bad headaches from commercial product.
Don't consume much of THAT stuff myself, anyhow. Don't consume much
at any one time, in fact. Probably better that way. P.
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1993 15:56:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: Stephen Brent Peters <sp2q+ at andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: COPS in PORTLAND
Someone told me that she was watching COPS in PORTLAND as they busted
some poor homebrewer for growing pot. Apparently this guy had an
impressive set-up with lots of groovy stainless steel. As the camera
panned over the equipment a friendly officer explained how lucky it
was they caught this "creep" because probably hundreds of people were
going blind from drinking his illegal moonshine. She said the last
camera shot zoomed in on his copy of Papazian's book. Of course, they
were confiscating everything.
so much for rush limberger's "Liberal Media."
Steve Peters = sp2q at andrew.cmu.edu
*Oxnar demands a _Sacrifice!_*
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 09:02:38 EST
From: "John DeCarlo" <jad at pegasus.mitre.org>
Subject: Yeast and Acid Washes
A couple of questions.
1) John "Crazy Experimenter" McHarry figures that since seltzer is acidic
from the CO2 in solution (carbonic acid?), it would be useful for acid
washing yeast (and should be reasonably sterile from the store). Any
data points out there?
2) What about technical references in this area?
Thanks.
Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org
Return to table of contents
Date: Monday, 14 June 93 09:07:09 CST
From: LLAPV at UTXDP.DP.UTEXAS.EDU
Subject: mangos & prickly pears
I've seen a lot of discussion on strawberries lately, but has anyone out there
tried more exotic fruits in beer, such as mangos or prickly pears? From
reading about using prickly pears in mead, I understand you can boil it with
the wort. I'm interested, because mangos are real cheap right now (3 for a
dollar), & it'd be a darned shame to let something as novel as this pass me
by.
Hoping your closets stay cool this summer,
avd
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 10:47:26 EDT
From: Hal Laurent <laurent at tamdno.ENET.dec.com>
Subject: Homebrew clubs in Baltimore MD
I'm looking for information on homebrew clubs in the Baltimore Maryland
area. If anyone can help, please send me mail at laurent at tamdno.enet.dec.com.
Thanks,
Hal Laurent
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 09:54 CDT
From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: FILTERING
Judging from my experience and that of a brewer who posted an article to
rec.crafts.brewing, there seems to be a problem with the filters being sold
to the homebrewing community.
I won't name my source or his, other than to say they are not the same, in
order to give them an opportunity to rectify the problem. I told my source
and he is looking into it.
I purchased a filter system with a .5 micron filter and was very disappointed
with the results, viz. no visible change in the turbidity of the beer after
filtering.
Not willing to accept these results, I purchased a known .5 micron filter
cartridge from McMaster Carr and ran some tests on it which convinced me that
the .5 micron cartridge that came with the filter, most assuridly was not.
I ran a gallon of water with one oz (by volume) of corn starch through both
filters and the results were strikingly different. The filtrate from the
McMaster cartridge was sparklingly clear and the other looked about like a
beer I would want to filter.
I then ran a batch of stubbornly hazy red wine through the McMaster filter
and it emerged dazzlingly clear.
From a physical standpoint, the McMaster cartridge is several ounces heavier
than the other and takes about 5 times as long to dry out after use.
Furthermore, it is darker in color and made of cotton.
The McMaster catalog has a wide variety of filters and cartridges but what is
notable is that the only string type, submicron filter is cotton. All the
synthetic fiber cartridges are 5 microns or larger.
So, if you are having problems getting what you expected from your submicron
filter, I suggest you run the above cornstarch test on your filter and if it
does not come out clear, complain to your supplier or order one from
McMaster-Carr.
The part number is 4411K91 and costs $11.82.
This is a 10" cartridge. If you have the smaller one, you will have to look
elsewhere.
Phone number is (708) 833 0300
A note on filter use.... It seems assumed that the filter will be used from
keg to keg and forced by CO2. The one I have works very well by gravity
alone, simply inserted in a siphon line from the carboy on a table to the keg
on the floor with the filter standing on the table.
I also find that mine has a very large and persistant bubble that, unless
purged with CO2, could cause aeration if not eliminated. The simplest way to
eliminate it is to just run the filter backwards... by running the beer into
the "out" connector and out the "in" connector, the canister fills completely
and the bubble never forms. The filter will clog up faster this way but for
the batch sizes we run, it it not relevant. It is also presumed that one
would backflush the filter after each batch, which in this case is running
clean water through it the normal way.
js
ZZ
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Date: 14 Jun 93 14:56:35 UT
From: "Petrovsky Andrey "
Subject: HOMEBREW Digest Distribution List
Hi,
Please add my name to your distribution list for HOMEBREW Digest .
andrey.petrovsky at gtegsc3.sprint.com
Thanks
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 11:22:59 EDT
From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: Stoudts Festival
Here is my completely biased and subjective opinion of this weekends second
annual eastern regional microbrewers festival (Stoudts Fest).
For this years event there were two major changes from the way things were
conducted last year. Firstly, there were three sessions instead of one and
this was an excellent and neccessary move. Secondly, the food distribution
was moved into the Stoudts biergarden area, away from the beer serving area.
Both of these changes resulted in a more efficient and orderly event, and
made the task of getting some food much easier.
Each session had 1,000 tickets sold. The last session that was added later
than the first two, was almost sold out (~950).
Working from memory, there were approximately 25 microbreweries and brewpubs
in attendance, with most serving 2-3 styles of beer. Attendees received a
Festival tasting glass and a meal ticket for kraut, german wersts and some
of Ed Stoudts excellent fresh bread.
Each session lasted 4 hours. Attendees were allowed to sample beers at will
without additional cost during this period. The breweries were not paid for
thier beers, but each brewery did receive a complimentary hotel room and
all brewers and helpers also were fed a prime rib dinner between the Saturday
afternoon and evening sessions. I personnaly believe this festival combines
the best aspects of the Oregon Brewers Fest with that of the GABF: one entry
admission, no competition medals, as many beers as each brewery wants to bring,
and the added Stoudts touch of a good meal included in the admission price.
The other great thing about this festival is that I love the surrounding
countryside. It is a great place to camp, bike and do whatever.
My personal favorites from the fest:
McNeil's Brewpub, Brattleboro, Vermont:
This is a hombrewers paradise. The brewery is a 4 BBl operation, and the beers
are genuinely hand crafted, unfiltered and produced with quality ingrediants.
My favorite was the Helles Bock. A 16P beer, it is made with Moravian malt,
and german noble hops, hallertau & tettnang. This beer is a hoppier version
of Sierras Pale Bock. A very good hoppy american bock.
Zip City, NYC:
Despite some negative press in the past I believe Bob Berg is doing
a good job of making some pretty tasty lagers. If you wrote off this brewery
in the past, give it another try.
Arrowhead Brewing Co, Chambersburg, PA.
The makers of Red Feather Pale Ale, the brewhaus is a typical Peter Austin
Associates design, using ringwood ale yeast, torrefied wheat flakes, the
Austin hop perculator, and of course open fermenters. I am not always a fan
of the ringwood family of beers, but each time I have another Red Feather,
I am impressed by the clean snappiness and great hoppiness of the beer. Of
all the Austin breweries, Arrowhead seems to be the one that controls the
yeasts tendancy to throw diacetyl.
Stoudts Brewing Co:
The success of this brewery continues. Ed & Carol Stoudt run a tight ship,
with the brewery and GM? run by Tom Rupp. For the festival, Stoudts had a
Festival beer, a Double Honey Maibock and an Oatmeal Stout. The Maibock is
amazingly drinkable for about 9% ABV. The real winners form this brewery
were only found in bottles or on draft on Sunday: Export/Gold, and Bock. Tom
warned me that the bock is thier best effort yet and it was a truley delicous
traditional bock. Also of note is the Adamstown Amber, a amber lager with
great malt/hop balance. Tom reminded me that he leans toward balanced beers,
so I avoided pushing my 45 IBU pale ale on him. Tom is in the process of a
considerable brewery expansion with 90? BBl Unis due soon , a new cold box
and a 30 BBl brewhaus to replace the current 15 BBl. The new sudhaus will be
steam fired as opposed to the current direct fired one. Hopefully, the
character of the beers will remain the same.
Baltimore Brewing Co:
Yes I am a bit biased here, as most of my labor was devoted to pouring and
explaining these beers to fest goers. But, from feedback during all three
sessions, the Baltimore Weizen (mit hefe) was terrific. The characteristic
Paulaner weizen/banana esters were evident, and the 5% ABV made it a nicely
poundable beer. For people who will be in the Baltimore area, this weizen
is still available and will be followed by a Weizen Bock.
Notable missing brewery from last year:
Great Lakes Brewing Co, Cleveland. I spoke with the brewer, Andy, who was in
attendance despite his beers absence. It appears that success has reared its
ugly head again, and the brewery was unable to sacrafice the required kegs and
still supply the pub and its accounts.
Thanks to everyone who helped make this a great festival, espically the Stoudts,
Tom Rupp and all of the helpers who carried kegs and trash cans of water. See
ya next year!
Good brewing,
Jim Busch
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1993 09:39:55 -0600
From: Vincent Heuring <heuring at riker.cs.colorado.edu>
Subject: Recipe for Jalapeno Beer
My wife wants me to brew up a batch of jalapeno beer!
Yes, folks, it's true. We paid a visit to Fort Collins last week, to
visit the *three* microbrewerys there, and to visit Coopersmiths, the
local brewpub. Coopersmiths has, among their six always-available beers,
a "Chili Beer," and my wife was wild about it. The beer *was* really good.
Extremely dry, light in color, with an immediately noticable pepper flavor.
No hop flavor at all that I could detect, just a very dry pepper bite. Not
particularly hot, either.
Anyway, I thought that bringing a half-gallon home would satisfy her appetite,
but no, we've polished it off, and she still wants me to brew up a batch.
So, does anyone have a partial mash or extract recipe for jalapeno pepper beer?
- ---
Vincent Heuring Dep't of Electrical & Computer Engineering
University of Colorado at Boulder Boulder CO 80309-0425
heuring at cs.Colorado.EDU o) 303-492-8751 h) 303-449-8868
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 11:17 PDT
From: Daniel A Conners <Daniel_A_Conners%~WHC110 at pnlg.pnl.gov>
Subject: Large Scale Recipies, Hop Utilization, & In-keg Carbination
NOTE: Please post your responses or reply to me at the
following address: gj_vargo at ccmail.pnl.gov Thanks.
I have been brewing in 6 finished keg batches for a few
years. I seem to have fallen into a rut as my beers
generally end up as either a Golgen Ale, Red Ale, or Stout.
All are very drinkable, but I miss the Belgian styles and
others [i.e. (Chimays), Ayingers, and Felinfoils (SP)].
Will anyone please post or E-Mail me "PROVEN" large scale
batch recipies (part of my reluntance to vary significantly
from the "standards" is the cost of failure - an
unsatisfactory product deterrs my experimentation).
Any suggestions on how I may vary my process are also very
welcome. The following is a very generic description of the
process:
* Bring 125 gallons water to 180 degrees F
(gypsum added)
* Transfer to hot water storage tanks
* Begin mash-in of ~220 lbs (mostly two-row) at a strike
temperature of 172-174 F (water pumped to bottom of
mash-tun)
* Complete mashing over a 20-30 minute period, cover grain
with 1-2 inches of water
* Cover mash-tun, rest for 1:15 minutes (grain core
temperature is ~140-145 F at finish)
* Sparge (by pumping into sparge ring) with remaining water
(~150-160 F); valve out to Lauter-back and pump back to
kettle (last of wort has little sweetness if any); balance
flows in and out
* Add additional gypsum, citric acid, and table salt; heat
to boil.
* Boil ~35 minutes add first hop pitch (usually
12-18 oz. of high alpha hop pellets -
Centennials/Cascades/Fuggels)
* Continue boiling for ~40 minutes add finish hop pellets
(usually 8-11 oz.) apply heat for 3-5 minutes to assure
wort turnover and hop mixing (Tetenger, Willamette,
Fuggels, Cascade, Centennial)
* Run thru tube and shell heat exchanger to get wort to
78 F maximum (prefer 68-72 F); pump to two sterile
fermenters
* Grab two 1/2 quart samples for yeast rehydration; take
hydrometer and temperature readings to determine O.G.
* Pitch rehydrated Whitbread Ale yeast, Batch 18 (usually
1-1/2 to 1-3/4 oz. per 1/2 quart starter) warmed to ~85 F
* Primary ends 3 days later, wort pumped up to elevated
secondary fermenters; allow to work 10-20 days
* Gravity feed to 15.5 gallon kegs (Golden Gate style) and
bung
* Force carbonate by slowly adding co2 to bottom shank and
gradually increase pressure to ~25 psi at 60 degree F over
3 days
* Chill thoroughly, reduce keg pressure to dispensing
pressure
Any comments, suggestions, repremands?
Secondly, I'm down to my last 8 oz of Whitbread yeast any
suggestions on a new variety that would compliment the above
process or a suggested improvement. How do the hop
utilization tables I've seen on the Digest fit the larger
batches? And lastly, has any one developed a set of co2
tables out to the 60-70 F range and up to ~30 psi.
Obviously, the saturation rate is slow at my household
temperatures (they were off scale of the tables published in
"The New Brewer" a year or so ago. Carbination suggestions
are also welcome. Thanks for the patience and the extra
bandwidth.
Sincerely,
Dan Conners
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 13:48:46 CDT
From: jlf at palm.cray.com (John Freeman)
Subject: canned beer
Well, thanks to several who responded to me about palatable beer in cans.
My fishing buddy showed up with Summit and Sam Adams this weekend. Here
is a summary of what people told me.
beer recommend by
- ---- ------------
Yuengling Black and Tan Rob Dobson, Timothy Sweet
Miller special reserve amber ale (maybe) Chip Hitchcock
Foster's Lager Fred Smith
Guinness Stout Pub Draught Donald G. Scheidt and
Bryan Kornreich and
Richard Stueven and
not Chip Hitchcock
Beck's Donald G. Scheidt
Heineken Donald G. Scheidt, Bart Thielges
Tsingtao Donald G. Scheidt
Lowenbrau Donald G. Scheidt
reuse a (some) cleaned plastic bottle(s) Donald G. Scheidt
Holsten Bart Thielges
Weinhard's Ale Bart Thielges
Ballantine Dark Ale Bryan Kornreich
drink cheap beer Bryan Kornreich
I hope I got the credits right, I got mixed up in the middle of making
the list, and already deleted the mail. My apologies if I got it wrong.
This makes an excellent list to draw from. Again my thanks to you all.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 13:16 CDT
From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli)
Subject: Slugfest in the Sierras
It came to pass that the garden slugs had become too greedy.
Peaceful coexistence was not working out. Plant damage was
occurring at an accelerated rate and it wouldn't have been long
until irreversible damage was inflicted. Granted, all creatures
great and small have a place in the Grand Design but the time had
come to give the slugs their walking papers.
For those who are not gardeners, beer is probably the cheapest and
easiest slug countermeasure. The method is simple and effective.
Submerge a small container into the ground so that the lip is level
with the ground. Fill the container with beer. In effect you're
making a lilliputian beer swimming pool. At night, the slugs are
attracted to the beer (the malt me thinks). The slugs drink the
beer, loose their sober composure and fall into the container.
Having never taken swimming classes, the slugs drown. Are you
listening, Kevorkian?
It was my intention to use homebrew because: 1) a bottle of
homebrew was a small price to pay for slug abatement and 2) I
don't have any Sam Adams(tm). Planning and executing the mass
murder was easy until I opened the fridge. To my surprise there
was no homebrew. None. Oh sure, there was Baderbrau Pils and
Bock, Celis White, Edelweiss Dunkel, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and
Mackeson's Stout. But not one stinkin' bottle of homebrew. It
seemed I was going to treat a bunch of freeloading gastropods to
the good stuff after all. The question was which beer would be
sacrificed. Choosing was going to be tough.
My mind quickly went into Beer Assessment Mode. OK, no way do the
slugs get the Celis or the Mackeson's. Not the Edelweiss either.
The Baderbrau Pils was exceptionally fresh and so was a keeper.
Remaining was the Baderbrau Bock or the SNPA. The logical choice
would have been the bock as it was getting old. But I was afraid
some of the more un-adventuresome slugs, not unlike some humans I
know, might not like "dark beer". So the poison of the day was to
be SNPA. I felt this was a sound choice because if drowning didn't
kill the slugs, the bitterness surely would.
chris campanelli
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 16:04:39 MDT
From: pjd at craycos.com (Phil Duclos)
Subject: Kegging suppllies
Some of you may not be aware of a recent pricing change by a
supplier of kegging equipment and supplies. About a year ago Foxx Equipment
Company of Denver & Kansas City sent a letter out to homebrew clubs
inviting them to pool their member's orders and offering wholesale prices to
clubs on quantities of 3 or more of any item. This policy has changed.
The Deep Wort homebrew club was one of the clubs which took Foxx
up on this policy and placed orders for a variety small miscellaneous
parts for kegging. Popular items included both large and small o-rings
for the kegs, faucet parts, shanks, and keg connectors. One member agreed
to act as a focal point and arrange the orders. The orders typically came
to about $200. Quantity savings were passed along to the members and a lot
of hard to get items got supplied. Some people ordered 1 item just because
it was readily available through this service and unavailable otherwise even
though there was no price break. Nobody ordered complete kegging systems or
kegs.
When our latest order arrived we were surprised to find that we had
been charged retail prices on all items, even those of quantity 3 or more.
A phone call revealed that Foxx's policy had changed. The conversation also
revealed the reasons for this change. Apparently few homebrew clubs responded
to Foxx's offer. Those that did got a good deal. Those that didn't continued
to look elsewhere for those parts or just did without. Foxx was less than
overwhelmed with the response. Also some big homebrew suppliers complained.
Apparently they felt that Foxx was competing with them by offering wholesale
prices to homebrew clubs.
Now I get a lot of homebrew catalogs and pretty much know what's on
the shelf in the local homebrew stores and I have NEVER seen the parts
that we order in either place. I see complete kegging systems, kegs,
regulators, etc. But faucet knobs, shanks, 1/4" barb gas disconnects, dip
tube o-rings and the like, NEVER. And I think that I understand why. The
homebrew suppliers have limited shelf space and capital and feel that its
better to stock stuff which has a higher turnover. OK, sounds like a good
business decision to me. However, to then turn around and complain to
the supplier of these parts that they are in competition with them is
ridiculous!
Well, there are alternatives and probably the easiest is to simply
knuckle under and pay the higher prices. However, no policy is ever set in
stone and the better solution, I think, would be to convince Foxx that there
really is a market for quantity sales to homebrew clubs and that they
demand wholesale prices for quantity purchases. The way to do this is to
write to the owner of the company at the following address and express
your opinion:
Ford Mauer - Owner
Foxx Equipment Company
421 Southwest Boulevard
Kansas City, Missouri 64108
If you're not interested, don't use this stuff, don't care, like
higher prices or whatever, OK, don't bother. I actually think that there is
a sizeable demand out there that has been thwarted by lack of knowledge and
frustrated by lack of availability. If I am wrong, OK. I also am not
attacking homebrew suppliers. They are great and work on slim margins and
have limited capital and lots of competition, etc. They also don`t carry
what I need, so I see no conflict. What I am trying to do is make people
aware of a opportunity that they have lost. I think that if enough clubs
respond, Foxx will change their policy.
This isn't an endorsement for Foxx Equipment Co either. There are
other suppliers such as Rapids, Superior, etc. Foxx has just been the one
we have been dealing with, that's all.
Thanks,
phil duclos
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 20:15:24 PDT
From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com>
Subject: Not me in the picture
I just got my issue of Zymurgy today, and since a lot of you have
already asked, no, that is not me in the picture. I don't know who it is.
Besides, if it was me I'd be face down! ;-)
Mark from HopTech
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 20:12:44 PDT
From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com>
Subject: Hop Oils
New Product Announcement
In my article in the Summer '93 Zymurgy (Boost Hop Bouquet with Dry Hopping)
I talked about CO2 extracted hop oils. As the article stated, measuring the
very tiny amounts of hop oil needed takes lab equipment and lab skills,
beyond those of most homebrewers (but probably not beyond quite a few
Digest readers). Anyway, the article states that I was working on a solution
to the problem. It was supposed to have a P.O. Box where you could write
me to keep informed of any progress. Unfortunately, they edited that part out.
To make a long story short, HopTech now has available CO2 extracted hop oils
that have been formulated in a stable, water-based suspension that are easy to
add to homebrew sized batches. It is calibrated so that 1 tsp of hop oil equals
1 ppm of hop oil in 5 gallons. Average usage, depending on the style of beer
and your taste, runs between 1 and 3 ppm. We sell it in 2 oz bottles,
enough to add 2 ppm to 30 gallons of beer.
We have three varieties available:
Premium British Blend, made with a carefully controlled blend of English and
European hops that allows extremely consistent aroma characteristics from year
to year. Very floral in character.
British Blend, very similar to the Premium British Blend, but the aroma
characteristics are slightly less consistent from year-to-year, allowing a less
expensive price.
Pure East Kent Goldings. Wow! The real thing. Very smooth and mellow hop
aroma. Not nearly as floral as the two British Blends. This is rare,
expensive and worth it. Limited supply.
For a HopTech catalog or to order, call 1-800-DRY-HOPS M-F or you can email
mgaretz at hoptech.com. Fax is 510-736-7950. Or you can ask your favorite
homebrew supplier to carry our products.
Mark from HopTech
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 10:47:16 BST
From: des at pandora.swindon.ingr.com (Desmond Mottram)
Subject: Re: Dogbolter
Joseph Gareri writes
...
> Subject: Dogbolter(R)
>
> I was recently given a Dogbolter(R) kit as a present. I'm not a
> fan of kits, but I'm not inclined to throw something out either.
>
> Has anyone had any experience with either this kit or the commercial
> product? The kit says it originated in 1979 when David Bruce first opened
> the GOOSE AND FIRKIN in Southwark UK. It is supposed to be brewed to an
> OG of 1060.
I've drunk the beer and brewed the kit. The beer is good and the kit is too,
as kits go. Though it's a long way short of the original. The OG seems a bit
high. I thought it was about 1055.
>
> I am hesitant to use the yeast packet that came with the kit, but I'm not
> sure what I should replace it with. Also, the instructions say to add
> 2 1/2 lb. white sugar along with the extract. This seems like a lot of
> cane sugar for the amount of malt. I'm guessing the can is 3.3lb.
The yeast will be OK but if you want to replace it I'd suggest something
like a London Ale yeast - not sure of the yeasts you have available. 1kg of
white sugar is a normal ingredient of UK beer kits. It's to keep costs down
and does nothing to improve the beer. Many people use two kits instead or
brew half the quantity without the sugar. The can is probably 1.8kg.
You could boil it up with 4 pints of water and then add about 2 gallons of
cold water. Take an SG and temperature reading. Aim for an OG of about
1055-1060 and a temperature about 20C. You could add small quantities of hot
or cold water and/or sugar until you get there. Pitch the yeast and follow
the rest of the instructions on the kit. You should get a pretty good beer.
>
> Any help? They classify Dogbolter(R) as a "strong ale".
>
Yes, it's strong for a British bitter, somewhere around 5.5% abv.
> Joe Gareri
> Boston, MA
>
Desmond Mottram
Swindon, UK
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 08:56:29 EST
From: "John DeCarlo" <jad at pegasus.mitre.org>
Subject: Re: Refrigeration/Fermenting
>How do people of ordinary means accomodate large numbers of fermenters
>and kegs?
Well, how do they *acquire* large numbers? <g>
There is an interesting article in one of the earliest books published
("Beer and Brewing"?) with transcripts of the AHA Conference talks. It is
how someone built a walk-in fermentation room. If I remember correctly, it
was basically built with stiff insulation boards used in building houses,
with an airconditioning unit inside. Pretty neat.
Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 9:37:33 EDT
From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: Fullers ESB
Jay,
I saw your fullers question in todays HBD and since I just returned
from the brewery I cant resist answering the question:
<My question is, since you've evidently been to the source, which is closer
to the product served at the brewery, the U.S. tap or the U.S. bottled?
Neither! In the brewery they serve Fullers ESB Cask Conditioned Ale.
This is near the gravity of the draft US version but is cask hopped with
K. Goldings Hop Plugs (just like homebrewers use).
An interesting point is that the UK bottles/cans and polypins are packaged
with hop oil and therefore do not have hop parts floating.
Also, the London Pride Cask is 4.0 ABV while the canned/bottled version is
4.7. This is fairly typical in that you are expected to pound 20 oz pints
in the pub.
<10# 2-row
1/2# crystal, 60L - 90L
1/2# carapils
1# brown sugar, 60 minutes
2 oz Fuggles, 60 minutes
.5 oz Kent Golding, 30 minutes
.5 oz Kent Golding, 5 minutes
1.5 oz Kent Golding, dry hopped in secondary
Yweast London Ale (1028) yeast
OG: 1048
FG: 1012
There is no Fuggles in ESB or any of the Fullers beers. They use English
Target, Challenger and Northdown. EKG is in the finish & cask hopping
of both Chiswick Bitter (very good bitter) and ESB. BTW the kettle hops
are Lupofresh( challenger, 91) pellets from Kent and Worscester. They
"Burtonize" the brewing water using mineral salts. A single temp infusion
is employed. The ESB is 1.052 OG (apparently this was reduced for the US
market, according to a brewer I was drinking with in the Pub next door).
I was told they used to use sugar but this is no longer required with the
new mash tuns. I missed out on the Maize part so I do not know, but I
assume George has this correct. Try 5- 10 % in the mash. Skip the sugar,
use caramel malts to get the color and sweetness.
Good brewing,
Jim Busch
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1993 7:23:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: BadAssAstronomer <STOREY at fender.msfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: fermentation?...no not yet.
Hi all
I've got a question about fermentation. Specifically about Wyeast
American #1056 fermentation. I pitched some of this stuff about,
oh, 3pm on Sunday (~40 hours ago). So far, nada. Nothing but this
sorta scummy looking growth on the beer surface. What the hell's
going on here? I've used Wyeast in the past, but not the American
Ale. The package swelled just fine and all that. Anyone got any
ideas?
scott
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 10:03:23 EDT
From: ethan.mason at mail.trincoll.edu (Ethan Mason)
Subject: Belgian Beers and Brewpubs-any favorites?
I am going to Belgium next week and would like to know what the really good
beers are so I can keep a lookout for them. I have been there before, but
was so amazed with the quantity of types, that I just drank all the
different types I could find. This time, however I would like to be a
little more selective and sniff out the better beers and brewpubs. Any
personal favorites?
Thank you in advance for your time,
Ethan Mason enroute to beer heaven.
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 93 10:13:52 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
Subject: Beer resources on Long Island
I'm making a day trip to Cold Spring Harbor (NE corner of Nassau
county) via JFK on Thursday (6/17). I'm looking for info on
brewpubs, dinner places with a good beer list, and/or good beer stores
somewhere between the two (CSH and JFK) or not too far out of the way.
(Yes, I checked the pub list!) Please respond by e-mail. Thanks.
Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1163, 06/16/93