HOMEBREW Digest #1168 Thu 24 June 1993

Digest #1167 Digest #1169

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Mashing raw wheat for Belgian white beers (Phillip Seitz)
  Eric Warner's Wheat beer book (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Light (Lovibond) Extract ("Anderso_A")
  mark at hoptech.com's advertising on HBD (Richard Childers)
  keg secrets (Sandy Cockerham)
  filtering - mechanisms & tolerances (Richard Childers)
  New brewer ("Michael Barre"                            )
  Miller PR (LLAPV)
  Sucking on siphon hoses (korz)
  Anyone heard of BrewHeat? (Nir Navot)
  Brew Supply Store (Tito Lopez)
  Re: Cooling extract wort (korz)
  Brewery's or Micro's in Dallas, Texas (Bruce=Kiley)
  Wort chilling, Porsches (Jack Schmidling)
  Free B and Punks on Swill (Bart Thielges)
  Lubbock, texas (KLIGERMAN)
  Erix Warner's Wheat beer book (Rick Garvin)
  Homebrew shops in Philadelphia PA? (SOMAK)
  dogbolter, downloading, mashing, hop extraction & weizen yeast (Timothy J. Dalton)
  hot yeast, brewpubs in minn?? (taylor)
  iodophor, chili etc (Steve Lichtenberg x79300)
  Apple Bach Blechhh... (Mike Zentner)
  Cotton spun filters & efficiency (Jim Busch)
  Re: Acetaminophen and hangovers (Paul Sovcik)
  Short Original Gravity  . . . why ?? (Kevin Krueger)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 16:41 GMT From: Phillip Seitz <0004531571 at mcimail.com> Subject: Mashing raw wheat for Belgian white beers Some time back I posted a preliminary recipe for a Belgian white beer that I had brewed with some success. A number of other people went on to brew the same thing, and reported good results. That recipe called for 60% barley malt, 30% wheat malt, and 10% raw wheat in the mash, using a single protein rest prior to saccrification. This works smoothly and the wheat requires no special preparation. I can now report that I have successfully completed a mash of 50% Belgian pils malt and 50% raw hard red winter wheat (aka wheat berries). All grains were ground on a Corona mill, with no additional preparation. The mash schedule was as follows: Mash type: Upward step mash Water/grist ratio: 2 quarts/lb Dough in: 95F for 10 minutes Protein rests: 117F for 20 minutes 122F for 20 minutes 126F for 20 minutes Saccrification: 150F for 10 minutes 158F until complete Technique: 1) All the water is added at dough-in. I should admit that my strike temperature was much too hot (115F), and that I overshot by about 8 degrees F. I therefore suggest using water that is 97-100F, which you can probably get straight from your tap. I used the dough-in period to adjust the pH, which required 3.5 teaspoons of gypsum. Usually I don't need any, but this is also the first time I've used a complete step mash instead of infusion, and I usually use less water per pound of grist. 2) Apply heat to raise temperature to first protein rest and let sit for 20 minutes. 3) Repeat for second and third protein rests. 4) Saccrification temperatures were my choice--use what you want. Astute readers will notice that this is exactly the mash schedule proposed by Eric Warner in his wheat beer book, but without the decoctions. The most interesting thing about doing this was that I could actually feel the grist becoming less gummy with each rest. What started as a rather sticky, bottom-clinging mass that looked like wallpaper paste became a light, fluffy, easy-to-stir and clear mash of the usual type. I lautered with 175F water until the wort running out had dropped to 1.008, and collected 6.75 gallons at 1.038, or about 27 points per pound overall from 10 lbs of grist. Lautering proceded with no problems at all, and may have produced a clearer-running wort than usual. There was plenty of hot and cold break material in the kettle but I wouldn't say the quantities were unusually large. Some warnings and comments: 1) Grinding 5 lbs of raw wheat on a Corona is the most effort- intensive thing I've done as a homebrewer. Like grinding putty. Think twice before planning a 10-gallon batch. 2) You will do a lot of stirring with this mash due to all the temperature steps. My brew day took an hour longer than usual, and lasted from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Effort-wise I'd say this is about equivalent to a single decoction mash. 3) While I'm not sure what an optimal crush for raw wheat might be, I was uncomfortable with the amount of flour produced when I set the Corona to grind chunks roughly similar to those from barley malt. I therefore used a grind that what I would consider somewhat coarser than optimal. Having seen what the protein rests can do, I'd grind finer next time, as the flour seems to take care of itself. This batch included some variations in spicing from my previous effort, and most notably the use of some hand-imported curacao orange peel. Subsequent postings will deal with this, as it's too early to say what the results will be. Thanks for assistance with this project go to Jim Busch, still the Sultan of Wheat Beers. Phil Seitz PSEITZ at MCIMAIL.COM Arlington, VA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 13:05:10 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Eric Warner's Wheat beer book Dennis Lewis writes: > I calculated the extract required from the grain recipes to > achieve the desired SG. In almost every recipe I came up with an > extraction of 40 pts/lb/gal! Funny you should mention that. I tried his "Isar Hefe Weizen" last night. After coming up with a gravity closer to 1.045 than his 1.055, I did the same calculation, and got an overall expected extraction of 36.5 for his gravity. I actually got about 30. Maybe I should have sparged for 2 hours insted of 1!-) Ah well, next time.... (If I will ever spend the time required for that complex multi-step decoction recipe again!) =S Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Jun 93 07:05:11 EST From: "Anderso_A" <Anderso_A%55W3.CCBRIDGE.SEAE.mrouter at seaa.navsea.navy.mil> Subject: Light (Lovibond) Extract Message Creation Date was at 21-JUN-1993 10:27:00 Greetings, I have a question for those of you out there who do not consider Malt Extract to be too trivial for comment. I wish to make a beer with the lightest possible color as is possible with extract. The style is somewhat uncertain at this point in time. I may use it as a base for fruit beers, or it may evolve into a "lawnmower" beer, but mainly it's just an experiment to see how light in color it is possible to get while using malt extracts. (Someday, if I get the time and brewing partners, I'll do it right & get my light color by going all-grain.) I would like to use only barley & wheat for my fermentable sugars - no sugar, rice, or similar adjuncts. What suggetions can you give me for both liquid extract (preferrably unhopped) and DME? TIA Andy A Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 10:56:08 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Richard Childers) Subject: mark at hoptech.com's advertising on HBD "Date: Mon, 14 Jun 93 20:12:44 PDT From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com> Subject: Hop Oils New Product Announcement "In my article in the Summer '93 Zymurgy (Boost Hop Bouquet with Dry Hopping) I talked about CO2 extracted hop oils. As the article stated, measuring the very tiny amounts of hop oil needed takes lab equipment and lab skills, beyond those of most homebrewers (but probably not beyond quite a few Digest readers). Anyway, the article states that I was working on a solution to the problem. It was supposed to have a P.O. Box where you could write me to keep informed of any progress. Unfortunately, they edited that part out. "To make a long story short, HopTech now has available CO2 extracted hop oils that have been formulated in a stable, water-based suspension that are easy to add to homebrew sized batches. It is calibrated that 1 tsp of hop oil equals 1 ppm of hop oil in 5 gallons. Average usage, depending on the style of beer and your taste, runs between 1 and 3 ppm. We sell it in 2 oz bottles, enough to add 2 ppm to 30 gallons of beer. "We have three varieties available:" Look, Mark. You work, if I recall correctly, out of Emeryville, on the fringes of UC Berkeley, where programmers and users are as thick as grass. Surely you have absorbed, by now, the understanding that advertising on the Usenet, and through electronic media in general, is in bad taste. Like bombarding every FAX you can find with an advertisement, it is, while economically attractive and technologically feasible, a shallow use of a media reserved for more important things than your worship of the almighty dollar. Please stop advertising on the Home Brew Digest. Everyone knows you're there, if anyone wants information they can mail you. Please note that I am, in general, as supportive of personal businesses, as anyone is. I've done it myself. But you are abusing this forum. Has it occurred to you that, perhaps, Zymurgy dislikes covert advertising ? Cyberspace is relatively free of throwaways ( barring bounced email ). Let's all keep it that way. - -- richard The silliest thing I ever read, richard childers, pascal at netcom.com Was someone saying "God is dead." The simple use of The Word Negates the second, and the third. ( Duke Ellington, _Sacred Concert_ ) Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Jun 1993 13:05:05 -0500 (EST) From: Sandy Cockerham <COCKERHAM_SANDRA_L at Lilly.com> Subject: keg secrets Does anyone have a neat trick for stabilizing a 3 gallon keg so you can tighten and untighten the fittings ? I have not figured out how to work on them. The 5 gallons with the double handles are easy, but the 3 gallons have me stymied. Thanks, Sandy C. From: COCKERHAM SANDRA L (MCVAX0::RX31852) To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com") Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 11:13:58 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Richard Childers) Subject: filtering - mechanisms & tolerances Jack Schmidling notes : "Judging from my experience and that of a brewer who posted an article to rec.crafts.brewing, there seems to be a problem with the filters being sold to the homebrewing community." This does not surprise me ... there is considerable latitude in circumstances where one cannot directly verify the statements of the salesperson. Recently I became interested in this topic, as a consequence of being intro- -duced to a hand-pumped camping water filter ( in close proximity to some naturally-heated sulpher springs, the location of which must remain secret ) and became intrigued by the design of the filter. Suffice it to say that, between the combination of poor design ( the filter came apart easily during regular use and did not have support for anything such as hoseclamps by which to secure it ), and questionable water contents ( giardia was the primary concern, but obviously other microflora and fauna exist, as well as sulpher and traces of human urine, since there's always an 'upsteam' )-:, I became intrigued with how much easier it might be to build and maintain one myself. I haven't done anything tangible yet, but, noting that others have the same interest for similar reasons ( I had not overlooked the relevance of these filters to brewing, yeasts being a microflora ), I thought I'd point out to those interested, that the Fisher Company sells about fifty pages of filters, a wide range of architectures ( paper, cone, replaceable disks, cast plastic housings, etc ), pore sizes and tolerances ( some are tolerant of organic solvents but a few are not ). The non-sterile versions are somewhat less expensive ( gamma ray radiation is a nontrivial procedure to maintain and administer, I'd guess ). I've called Jack's source in Chicago for a catalog, I'm interested in seeing what they offer - the prices are much better - but given the question of if a filter of a given pore diameter is what it claims it is, dealing with a scientifically professional firm may be advantageous. Incidentally, I'm not sure what the pore size of gas filters is, but it's probably pretty big - those are intended to filter out grit, not biological entities. Petroleum macromolecules might very well be similar in size to microorganisms ( although, clearly, I am not knowledgeable in this realm ). "I also find that mine has a very large and persistant bubble that, unless purged with CO2, could cause aeration if not eliminated." Many of the Fisher Company filters have anti-bubble mechanisms built in. Cole-Parmer might also have some good filters ... - -- richard The silliest thing I ever read, richard childers, pascal at netcom.com Was someone saying "God is dead." The simple use of The Word Negates the second, and the third. ( Duke Ellington, _Sacred Concert_ ) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 13:30 CDT From: "Michael Barre" <MBARRE at NOMVS.LSUMC.EDU> Subject: New brewer I recently read Tom Kaltenbach's brewing notes from May 25 and as a newer brewer I found some helpful info therein( esp. the jug-aeration). Thanks for the notes, Tom. I have finished my first batch, an Amber kit using Cascade hops and Superbrau malt extract from a supply shop here in New Orleans, and I am displeased with the results. The beer is very sharp with a metallic aftertaste, almost like a canned beer that has been cold, warm, and cold again. The shopkeeper tasted the beer and he says using liquid yeast instead of the dried (EDME brand) yeast, and pitching the yeast into cooler wort will take the bite out. My wort was 90 degrees. Has anyone experienced this problem, beer with too much bite? What do you think of the remedies? The beer fermented in a new, bleach-sanitized 5 gallon bucket; I think using a carboy so I could get some blow-off might also help. I will not be able to get fermentation temperatures below 75 degrees, at least not until November. Thanks in advance. Return to table of contents
Date: Monday, 21 June 93 14:06:11 CST From: LLAPV at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu Subject: Miller PR Howdy, Just a comment on Dennis B. Lewis' comments about Miller's Amber Ale PR brouchure. You have to wonder what the big brewer's know about beer that isn't yellow. Last Christmas, Coors' winter beer was labeled as a stout, which is very interesting for something that was about the same color as Bass Ale. Well, at least it wasn't "clear". Alan Van Dyke Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 14:48 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Sucking on siphon hoses Over the years, several brewers have suggested that sanitation at bottling time is not very important and that sucking on the siphon hose with your mouth is an acceptable way to start a siphon. I would like to again insist that this is very bad advise! Sanitation is important throughtout the brewing process. It is true that fermented-out beer is less prone to noticable amounts of infection, that does not mean that maintaining good sanitation is overkill. It is not. Before I make the next few statements, I want to preface them by saying that I don't mean to put anyone down or to imply that any of these statements are directed towards any of the brewers who have recently or not so recently posted contrary to my advise on the subject. The reasons that some brewers get by with less-than-ideal sanitation techniques include: 1. the beer is consumed quickly and an infection does not have enough time to produce detectable levels of off-flavors/aromas [this could not be done for some styles like Barleywine which require some aging... set a beer aside for a year and see if it gets overcarbonated or not], 2. the brewer has been very lucky, 3. the pitching yeast is contaminated with bacteria and there is little sugar left for the bacteria introduced during the siphoning to eat and make off-flavors/aromas [a very dry, thin beer would indicate that there's an infection in there -- if each bottle was equally dry then that would indicate the infection was introduced early in the process: infected yeast, infected fermenter, etc. -- if some bottles are more dry than others, the infection was introduced later in the process: dirty bottles, infection introduced while bottling, etc.], 4. the brewer is unfamiliar with the off-flavors/aromas that can be produced and is actually enjoying infected beer, and/or 5. the brewer is not sensitive to the particular off-flavors/aromas (each person has a slightly different threshold for each flavor/aroma). I'd like to add that during the 1st round judging in the national competition, I judged perhaps a dozen beers that had subtle off-aromas that were due to poor sanitation or infected yeast. This indicates to me that there are still a significant percentage of brewers who are lax in sanitation. These beers were not awful (actually only one was undrinkable) but the off-aromas were definately there, whether the brewer knew that they were or not. If you like the beer you are making and are happy with your process, then great... more power to you. On the other hand, it's important to remember that there are a lot of beginners reading and that it's best to not teach them anything except proper sanitation techniques. I've gotten quite comfortable with my fill-with-water technique and I would be willing to guess that it takes only 15 seconds longer than sucking on the hose (assuming that you were sanitizing the inside of your hose as I am). Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 22:39:52 +0300 From: Nir Navot <LCNAVOT at WEIZMANN.WEIZMANN.AC.IL> Subject: Anyone heard of BrewHeat? I'm just back from the UK. The British seem not to mind using plastic in their homebrewing. They have a mashing aparatus made of a 20 lit polyproylene bucket with a 2400 watt heating element controled by a thermostat which they call "BrewHeat" (forgot who makes it). You mash in it, sparge and boil (after the bucket is emptied). I guess you can also use it as your primary. I am about to construct one myself. Can anyone think of a good reason why such a bucket would not be such a great think to use??? Only problem for me right now is that they don't make 20 lit buckets here in Israel. Only 18 lit. I might have to resort to JS's EasyMasher tm in the end. Nir. HolyLand Brewing Inc. (sometimes called Nir's Beer) {both temporary} Rehovot, Israel. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 13:26:42 PDT From: tlopez at alamo.cam1.unisys.com (Tito Lopez) Subject: Brew Supply Store I'm looking for a brew suplly store in Ventura County. My closest one is in Woodland Hills, and that's an 80 miles round trip. I'm also in need of a 35-40 qt. brewing pot for my first full wort boil. I've checked restaurants & bar supply equipment, but no luck. Tito tlopez at alt.cam1.unisys.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 16:44 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Re: Cooling extract wort Steve writes: >Here's another one of those naive questions from a somewhat >inexperienced brewer. I am an extract/spec. grain brewer. Usually >after the boil, I would sparge the 1 1/2 gallons of hot wort into >3 1/2 gallons of cold water. This would still leave me with a >temp too high for pitching. After reading the ongoing thread >about a month ago on wort chillers, I started to wonder. Was my >beer spending too much time at DMS temps? So for my last batch >I took the brew pot off of the stove and put it into a sink that >had been filled with very cold water and ice. I covered it and >stirred the cold water around it for 10 minutes or so. Then >I sparged into my 3 1/2 gallons of cold water. The beer turned >out pretty tasty, so it wasn't infected. A little chill haze though. Chances are that you're right -- your beer is spending too much time at DMS-creation temperatures. 10 minutes is a bit short. I suggest you keep adding ice till the temperature of the wort drops to below 140F and then add it to your 3.5 gallons of boiled-and-cooled-to-40F water. This will give you a wort that is at about 70-75F and ready for pitching. >Are there any problems doing this? Is it a waste of time for such >a small quantity of wort? Should I just wait 1/2 hour before >pitching or should I really not worry and do whatever I feel >like doing that day? It's not a waste of time in my opinion. I'm a bit confused by your statement: "...after the boil, I would sparge the 1 1/2 gallons of hot wort..." Sparging is the rinsing of grains with hot (170F or so) water to extract the sugars out of them. Your statement implies that you have boiled your grains. This will not only give you chill haze, but also make your beer quite astringent (like chewing on grape skins). I suggest that you remove the grains when the water in the pot reaches 170F and then add your extract. Also, when you are pouring the hot wort into the cool water in the fermenter, try to minimize splashing which will oxidize the beer. Once the temperature of the wort is below 80F, you can then aerate the wort without significant oxidation. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 21:38:24 EDT From: Bruce=Kiley%SIG%SNI%sig at sni-usa.com Subject: Brewery's or Micro's in Dallas, Texas I am traveling in the Dallas, Texas area this week. I just tried Cowboy Premium-A Special Amber, very nice beer. Does anyone know were some BrewPubs or Micro's are in the area. I recently read that brewpubs were not legal in Texas. Is this still true? Please reply to brucek at sig.sni-usa.com Cheers, Bruce Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 23:00 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Wort chilling, Porsches >From: LPD1002%NYSHESCV.bitnet at UACSC2.ALBANY.EDU > After reading the ongoing thread about a month ago on wort chillers, I started to wonder. Was my beer spending too much time at DMS temps? After re-reading Darryl Richman's detailed account of the brewing process at Pilsner Urquell, I started to wonder if anything at all that we believe about brewing is for real. PU allows the beer to cool down naturally, in large open pans, in a building with "large louvered windows on one long wall". It takes four hours to cool down to a range given as 122F to 140F at which time it is then cooled down to pitching temp with a chiller. If this extended period at "DMS temps" is harmful to beer, someone had better tell the brewmeister at PU. >From: trl at photos.wustl.edu (Tom Leith MIR/ERL 362-6965) >Subject: The Great Grain Mill Saga I responded to this privately, not realizing that it was coppied to the Digest so now I have to do it publicly but I will edit it for public consumption. >I recently bought a JS MaltMill(r), the adjustable model, and have got a few things to say....... > The .060" spacing was too loose many grains were just cracked in half, but not really crushed. I adjusted the mill, again with feeler gauges, to .057". This provided satisfactory results for the two-row, but was too loose for the CaraPils. I adjusted again to .055", and this provided great results for CaraPils as well as the two-row. This whole discussion about a thousanth of an inch here or there is just too anal for my style and view of reality. I have not adjusted my mill for six months and I typically use 4 or 5 different malts in a batch. I am glad to see a customer who likes his toy and has the flexibility he was looking for but, for the record, I sell roughly equal numbers of fixed and adjustable and can only recall two customers who saw the need to upgrade. >I tried using a drill to turn the MaltMill too. This absolves JSP of all liability associated with the machine, but I did it anyway. The drill is a very heavy-duty 1/2" drill, with 0 - 500 RPM speed. I figure I was running it at maybe 100 RPMs. Not only do I absolve myself of liability but I would also like to point out that powerful electric drills are not a good choice for powering a mill. They have tremendous torque and will destroy rollers if stones or other objects find their way into the mill. If a drill must be used, I would suggest a light duty one that will stall on a foreign object. The method of choice is a separate motor, pullies and a v-belt adjusted to stall at the proper torque. >Things that could stand improvement?? I think the hopper is WAY too small. That is more of a shipping problem than an engineering problem. Try hanging a 5 gal bucket from the ceiling with a hole in the bottom and just let it run into the existing hopper. > I was disappointed to find no bronze bushing in the eccentric "knob" that provides the adjustemnt. The bronze bushing is in the roller where the action is. The knob has a hardened steel shaft that rides in the bushing. You ought to check out the new Philmill. It has no bearings at all. The 1.5" roller turns in 1.5" hole drilled in the steel housing. It sounds like a train hitting the breaks. The knob is only an adjustment and not a bearing surface. Although not milspec, it works and is consistant with keeping the cost reasonable. >And the adjuster moves too easily when tightening the set-screw -- you have to be more careful than you might want to be. I have made improvements in the knob to minimize the movement but as you bought it from a dealer, I don't know what vintage it is. As a result of your mail, we are now assigning serial numbers to every MM as it is manufactured to keep track of mods and improvements. >Some kind of metal clips that could fasten the mill to the top of the bucket would be good too. The preferred way of using the mill is to clamp the base to the end of a table with the business end hanging over the edge and the grain falling into the bucket. >My plans are to mount the MaltMill on a different base, add a permanent motor of some kind,... Much better idea than a drill. You can also screw the board down to a larger board with the front hanging over to avoid having to cut the rectangular hole in the new board. >If the eccentric knob wears out, I trust that Jack will replace it. Of course. >So, it seems there are now three price-points in the small-mill market now: $40 gets you a Corona, $80 get you a PhilMill, and $120 gets you an adjustable MaltMill. There are at least 500 people out there with fixed mills who would argue that you should compare the $80 PM against the $99 MM. js Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 93 19:38:04 PDT From: nexgen!bart at daver (Bart Thielges) Subject: Free B and Punks on Swill Is the "Brewer's Yeast" that can be bought at a health food store simply the sludge from the bottom of a fermenter ? If so, does it make sense at all to dry my sludge and save it as a source of vitamin B ? Or is there something magic about the store bought yeast ? The thought of saving the yeast for vitamin B came from the recent discussion of headaches and whether they resulted from yeastless factory beer. This weekend I was at a rather rowdy (ahem) music event. The only beverage I saw consumed was malt liquor in 32 or 40 ounce bottles. Yeow ! Ugh ! I'd bet that there were many headaches the next morning. How do they make that stuff ? Is it truely brewed that way or is extra alchohol added to skanky beer ? Not that I want to make some myself ("Here, try my latest homebrew. Its supposed to taste like King Cobra !"), I'm just curious. Thanks for all those who responded to my previous message ! Bart Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1993 23:55:26 -0400 (EDT) From: KLIGERMAN at herlvx.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: Lubbock, texas Help! My wife is on work assignment in Lubbock,Texas and cannot find any good beer. If anyone is familiar with the area and can suggest a good package store, restaurant, or other establishment, I will sent her the info. ASAP. Thanks-- reply by HBD or e-mail. Andy Kligerman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 00:34:54 EDT From: rgarvin at btg.com (Rick Garvin) Subject: Erix Warner's Wheat beer book > FROM: Dennis B. Lewis <dblewis at jscprofs.nasa.gov> > SUBJECT: Eric Warner's Wheat beer book > > I recently purchased Eric Warner's book _German Wheat Beers_ and have found it > to be a tremendous help in quantifying the mysterious tastes of German wheat > beers. I have a question for anyone out there (maybe someone knows Eric...) > about the recipe formulations in the back of the book. I calculated the > extract required from the grain recipes to achieve the desired SG. In almost > every recipe I came up with an extraction of 40 pts/lb/gal! > > I think that these sound more like malt extract (heavy liquid or light dry) > numbers. This is not a big problem, but I think the community should be aware > of this and make corrections to their own grain bills before starting. One > point of help for corrections is that Eric says the recipes are based on 83% > extraction from the wheat malt (1.039 max) and 78% from the barley malt (1.035 > max). (numbers in parens are mine) > > Or maybe there is some super German malts that yield 40 pts! I look at Warner's numbers and see for the Isar Weizen recipe on page 105 the following: (5 gallons)*(55 SG pts)/(7.525 lbs grain)= 36.5 SG pts/lb. I never see 36.5 SG pts/lb with my equipment. I brewed a Hefe Weizen a la Warner on 31 May, 1993. Three weeks after brewing, six days after bottling this beer took first in a local informally judged "light" beer contest. I was quite surprised that it was so well received. It even beat Jim Busch's Weizen and Wit. I voted for Phil Seitz's Wit (I think). So, I am happy with the quality of the advice found in Warner's book. The recipe performed as expected for my set up with extraction of 29 SG points/lb for a decoction. I use a 48 qt cooler with the copper slatted wort collector that we have all seen. I do not beleive that the geometry of the picnic cooler mash-tun (wider than tall) gives as good a grain bed, clarity, or extraction as I have gotten with the insulated Zap-Ap style (taller than wide). But, the cooler is more workable for 14 gallon batches. German Hefe Weizan Goals: OG: 1.054 IBU: 12 Yield: 14 gallons Color: light Ingredients: 15 lbs Ireks Wheat Malt 10.5 lbs DeWolf-Cosyns Pils Malt 2 oz 4.6% German Hallertauer Pellets (assume 25% utilization) 60 min Weihenstephan Weizan Yeast (96? 69?) Results: OG: 1.054 FG: 1.010 Procedure: 1) Preboil all water, chill, and siphon off of sediment. 2) Mash in at 99F, hold for 15 minutes. 3) Boost to 122F, hold for 15 minutes. 4) Perform first decoction with thickest 40% of mash. Heat in 15 minutes to 160F, hold 15 minutes. Heat in 15 minutes to boiling. Boil for 20 minutes. Mix back into mash tun over 10 minutes. 5) Hold at 147F for 20 minutes. 6) Perform second decoction with 30% of mash. Heat in 15 minutes to 160F, hold 15 minutes. Heat in 15 minutes to boiling. Boil for 10 minutes. Mix back into mash tun over 10 minutes. 7) Sparge at 172F to collect 15 gallons. 8) Boil two hours. 9) After hot break occurs collect one gallon of speise (wort) for priming. 10) Add hops for last 60 minutes. 11) Pitch yeast at 58F. Allow temperature to rise to 65F over three days. 12) Bottle with 1 4/5 qts speise per 5 gallons. This process took about 10 hours from start to clean up excluding pre-boiling the water. I am quite happy with this beer. It has a smoothnes that I have not tasted with my other Hefe Weizen's that I attribute to the unhopped speise. I found Eric Warner's book quite helpful and pretty much followed his guidelines verbatim. I was surprised at the very easy sparge. I did stir after one hour and recirc 1/2 gallon. The run-off was clear and I had no stuck mash problems. Cheers, Rick Rick Garvin rgarvin at btg.com BTG, Inc. Navy Programs Division, Vienna, VA 703-761-6630 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 09:02 PDT From: SOMAK%FITKJES2.BITNET at SEARN.SUNET.SE Subject: Homebrew shops in Philadelphia PA? A friend of mine is going to Philadelphia in July and he would like to know if there are any homebrew shops in town. What about their prices? Of course he also likes drinking good beer. Which are the best brewpubs there? Please email me. Thanks in advance. Markku Koivula Finland Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 07:31:08 -0400 From: Timothy J. Dalton <dalton at mtl.mit.edu> Subject: dogbolter, downloading, mashing, hop extraction & weizen yeast boy, I feel talkative this morning... Re: Dogbolter Revisited jpgareri at acs.bu.edu (Joseph Gareri) wrote: > The recommendations were > for 1/2 oz. (3-4%) per ounce of additional malt for the boil (60 minute No I like my hops as much as the next guy, and i've got some friends who might be called hop-heads and hop-sluts, but .5 oz hops per oz malt is going a bit too far! ;-) ====== Re: Downloading files from sierra.stanford.edu "PETER JUST, ANTHROPOLOGY, WILLIAMS COLLEGE" <Peter.Just at williams.edu> wrote: > of the sierra.stanford.edu server, specifically cats_meow.2ed.ps.Z. I take > it from the extensions that this is a PostScript file that has been compressed > with PKZIP. Yet when I try to unzip the file, PKUNZIP (2.04g) tells me the > file I have is probably not a .zip file. What am I doing wrong? How can I Nope...its compressed with the unix compress/decompress utility. zip files are .zip ====== Re: mashing and other mysteries of homebrewing BadAssAstronomer <STOREY at fender.msfc.nasa.gov> wrote: > My problem; how in the hell do > you keep mash at a constant temp? First, a gas stove is much easier than an electric stove for mashing...you can turn the heat on and off immediately, without the long time lag associated with electric burners. None of my mashes are ever isothermal. They slowly cool down, and I slowly warm them back up. Some people put their mash tun inside an insulated box, or inside their over, that has been preheated (on the 'warm' setting) to keep it warm. > Are these tuns I see for sale really worth it? Depends...do you want to do it manually or buy something to do it all for you... ====== Re: hop extraction bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros) writes: > So what happens if you boil the hops in plain water? Do malt > sugars or proteins or such provide something necessary for > bitterness extraction (iso-alpha acid conversion?)? For I seem to recall that boiling the hops with the wort is necessary to get good protein coagulation in the boil. ====== Re: Weizen Yeast gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane) writes: > You are fortunate enough to live somewhere where WYeast is testmarketing > this strain. It is _not_ related to the 3056, but is a true weizenbier > strain from Weinhenstephan. I have brewed with it once (got the yeast > directly from Dave), and it is a truly exceptional weizen strain. If > responses are good in the testing areas, I believe WYeast will add it to > their regular list. That would be a *big* improvement. Brewers resource has a single strain weissbier yeast too. Its about time for this improvement. I've been lucky enough to get a sample of Weinhenstephen #66, a true weissbier yeast. The smell out of the primary was wonderful. And the taste of the spec. grav. sample had 4-vinyl guiacol all over it. Even flat, it was delicious. This is a good yeast to use. Tim - ---- Timothy J. Dalton tjdalton at mit.edu MIT, Dept. of Chemical Engineering, Materials Etching Technology Lab Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 08:50:36 EDT From: taylor at e5sf.hweng.syr.ge.com (taylor) Subject: hot yeast, brewpubs in minn?? Hi people,, I have a question about boiling an extract wort and throwing the yeast in when the wort is around 85 to 90 degrees. I was told that this accelerates the process, but will it hurt the beer in any way. I started a batch late at night and didn't have time to let it cool to 65, 70 degrees. This was an ale...????? Everything looks OK...... Can anybody give me a list of brewpubs and supply stores for homebrewers in the Minnepolis/St. Paul area??? Todd........... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 08:40:49 -0400 From: steve at Pentagon-EMH6.army.mil (Steve Lichtenberg x79300) Subject: iodophor, chili etc Greetings fellow brewers; I have been following the recent threads on sanitation and thought it was time to add my $.02 to the discussion. I recently made the switch to using iodophor instead of bleach and have been very happy with the results. I became very discouraged about a year ago as I ended up with three infected batches in a row :-( I finally traced the problem to some grunge left deep in my wort chiller and had to replace the entire system. I use a counterflow chiller (really a coil of copper in a 5 gallon plastic bucket) and have had some difficulty in keeping hops leaves out of it. The chlorine solutions I was using were not able to get the organic components off the chiller and still keep the sanitizing ability. In additiion to the infections, I blew out two cornelious kegs by generating pin holes in them from the bleach. This just got to be too much as kegs are difficult to come by. (BTW I have found the best way to obtain kegs is to find a restaurant that has either just gone out of business or has just switched their soda system to bag in the box. You will usually find several kegs sitting in the dumpster. The soda companies are reluctant to pick them up and the restaurant owners have no patience for the clutter.) After I switched to iodine, I have had no more problems with infections and my kegs are in pristine condition. - ------ The recent discussion on chili beer has proven to be interesting. I have not tried to make one yet but I do have some experience with making pickled jalepenos. I harvested about eight plants worth last year from my garden and sliced them with a mandolin (gives uniform thickness) to about 1/4". The peppers were then placed in a vinegar/brine solution and left to sit in the refrigerator. After about three months they were hotter than any other pepper I have ever tasted. The acid inb the brine solution apparently has a multiplicative effect on the capsicum(sp) oils in the pepper. I would imagine that beer would fo the same thing. THanks for the forum and the ability to speak my peace. I have learned more here than I probably could have anywhere else. - --S ^ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 08:28:30 -0500 From: zentner at ecn.purdue.edu (Mike Zentner) Subject: Apple Bach Blechhh... Has anyone else made the mistake of seeing "Apple Bach" in the store and buying it? Can anyone point out a redeeming feature of this brew? Maybe I'm missing something. Mike Zentner (of hops?) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 9:53:47 EDT From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> Subject: Cotton spun filters & efficiency IN the last digest, jack comments more on filters: >Jack S. experiments with filters is very interesting. Micah claims he has seen no problems with head retention using the supposed .5um filter and I have seen poor clarity with it as well when pushing some beers through it. > Fix has recommended against this small (.5um) filtration..... < I wonder if we havn't got an apples and oranges problem here. I never asked < George what type of filter he was using. He gave me the manufactuere and < part number but not the type but I bought something else. George uses a 3 ucron, DE filter as he notes in the following mail: Yeast cells vary from 5 to 10 microns. My own filter is a Zahm+Nagel cartridge which is precoated with DE. The cartiridges come in 3, 1, and .45 micron sizes. I use the 3 micron version for my own homebrew. We also use this size for BRD brew pubs. < As there are many differnt types of filters, pleated, string wound, ceramic, < flat, plate, just to name a few, it seems that we need to know which type we < are talking about to get any sense out of this discussion. And of course, DE! >From more email: From tsand at helix.nih.gov Tue Mar 2 08:48:45 1993 I have been filtering my beers for about a year now and have pleased with the results. There are two types of filter cartridges that are used for filtering beer. The first type is a spun (woven) polypropelyne the other is a pleated polypropelyne. There is a big diference between the two. The spun polypropelyne has an efficiency rating of 90% (10% of the stuff you are trying to filter out will get through) the pleated plypropelyne has an efficiency rating of 99.9% (only 0.1% of the stuff you are trying to filter out will get through). The spun cartridges also tend to leak due to the fact that the ends of the cartridge do not have a gasket on them. The pleated cartridges come with gaskets and don't leak. The spun cartridges also cannot not be reused as many times as the pleated because they tend to be harder to back flush. I have used both types and the pleated polypropelyne is far superior and is the one I would recommend. < I have little confidence in the numbers quoted for string wound filters and < have no experience with any other. Exactly. They are not made for this purpose and as such I suggest using products intended for yeast removal. Good brewing, Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 09:21:25 CDT From: Paul Sovcik <U18183 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Re: Acetaminophen and hangovers I have to reply to this, since I have extensive experience in acetaminophen tox icity (residency in an ER for 1 yr) and hangovers (used to drink Blatz). Acetaminophen is OK to use for hangovers. It is toxic only in large amoun ts (over 5 gms/ingestion) and in hepatic failure (advanced cirrhosis). Avoid h igh dose long term use and suicide attemps and you'll be fine. In fact, it is better than aspirin or ibuprofen because you have less gastric upset, which is a significant part of a hangover. Dont take it before you go to bed, since its duration of action is only ab out six hours or so... My remedy? Lots of water/OJ before bed. Enough sleep. Some kind of nutrir oin upon arising. More water. Tylenol 650mg. If its really bad, a Sausage Mcmuf fin sandwich (grease is good-dunno why.) - -------------------------------------------------------------- Paul Sovcik | Email- U18183 at uicvm.uic.edu University of Illinois at Chicago| Department of Pharmacy Practice | "I Take Drugs Seriously..." Chicago, Il | Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 09:53:20 CDT From: krueger at comm.mot.com (Kevin Krueger) Subject: Short Original Gravity . . . why ?? I recently made the Imperial Stout listed in '92 Minnesota HB Champs recipe book (from the net) and did not nearly reach the original gravity listed for the recipe. I know you don't have to be dead nuts on the recipe, but I was a ways off. The recipe stated an OG of ~1.1 and I reached ~1.07. This recipe used d.m.e. (9#'s) and some specialty grains (1/2# each of chocolate and roasted barley) and 3 oz. of Williamette hops for boiling and some Cascade for finishing. As I am getting more brews under my belt (and it shows!), I am more inclined to ask why and I would like to know why I didn't get a higher OG. I steeped the specialty grains from cold water to something near 140, removed them, added the dme and hops and boiled for an hour. Should I have boiled longer or was it possibly a function of the dme ? Are there any other factors that would reduce my OG ?? Kevin Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1168, 06/24/93