HOMEBREW Digest #1223 Fri 10 September 1993

Digest #1222 Digest #1224

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  distribution (JZABDER)
  mini-keg question (Jim Grady)
  Gel/Liq/Sacc (npyle)
  What is Malt Liquor? (Richard Buckberg)
  Beer & Brewing Bibliography ("Bill Kitch")
  RE: All-grain (James Dipalma)
  Foaming when adding priming sugar (Jeff Benjamin)
  Something new (esonn1)
  2-dial regulator vs. 1 dial (09-Sep-1993 1208 -0400)
  REGULATORS ("Cisco" )
  BEER MIX REPLY  ("Cisco" )
  used brewpub equipment (jay marshall)
  replacing keg gaskets, etc. (09-Sep-1993 1353 -0400)
  Yeast Washing (Martin Wilde)
  Colorless runoff/low extraction/dryhopping (korz)
  (none) (mbarre)
  When should I pick my hops? (CAIN_WILLIAM)
  CF chiller cleaning, cooler mashing, Glatt mill, etc. (Eric Wade)
  Hoptech's fruit extracts (Bill Flowers)
  Scotland/Wales/Ireland (Bill Othon.LinCom)
  homebrew stores near Palo Alto? (Ken Michael Johnson)
  New Brewer. (PAUL MACDONALD)
  Radlett, England pubs? / OLD bottle cleaning (David Hinz (hinz at picard.med.ge.com))

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 06:08:40 PDT From: JZABDER at BCSC02.GOV.BC.CA Subject: distribution To: HOMEBR2 --INTERNET homebrew at hpfcmi.fc System Operations Please remove me from homebrew digest redistribution list. Thanks for all the info. G'day Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 9:19:17 EDT From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: mini-keg question Here is a question for all you who have used the mini-kegs that are becoming available: Is it easy (or even possible) to purge the kegs with CO2 when you are kegging? Can you put the dispenser in the keg, give it a gentle blast (talk about oxymorons) of CO2, and then fill? Thanks in advance for your help! - -- Jim Grady |"Root beer burps don't have to be said 'Excuse me'." grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com | Robert Grady, age 4.75 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 7:24:24 MDT From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Gel/Liq/Sacc Al Korz raises a good point about mashing. One of the first books I read about all-grain was from Dave Line, who is (was) admittedly one of the more relaxed brewing authors around. He did say more than once (I believe it was in "The Big Book of Brewing") that once you hit a negative starch test you are _not_ done. I guess he explained it a bit although I can't recall what his explanation was. Miller's explanation via Al seems right on the money: ungelatinized starch which is undetected by the iodine test. Maybe this is why many professional brewers rely more on the mash time rather than a conversion test. cheers, norm - -- Norm Pyle, Staff Engineer Head Brewer, Storage Technology Corporation Pyledriver Brewery, A Non-Profit Organization 2270 South 88th Street 1500 Elmhurst Drive Louisville, CO 80028-0211 Longmont, CO 80503-2323 (303) 673-8884 npyle at n33.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1993 07:41:09 -0700 From: Richard Buckberg <buck at well.sf.ca.us> Subject: What is Malt Liquor? Does anyone have a definition of malt liquor? What makes some brews malt liquor, and does anyone have any recipes? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 10:11:20 CST From: "Bill Kitch" <kitchwa at bongo.cc.utexas.edu> Subject: Beer & Brewing Bibliography I was reading Bill Ridgely's post on Heather Ale in HBD #1222 and was facinated by the description of this ale. Anyway, It got me thinking about books on beer and brewing, new and old. Most of us are familiar with the recent books for homebrewers, Miller, Papazian, etc. However, there are obviously a lot of other books out there. I'm wondering about putting together some sort of annotated, bibliography. Any interest? Send me you comments and citations. WAK Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 11:32:43 EDT From: dipalma at banshee.sw.stratus.com (James Dipalma) Subject: RE: All-grain Hi All, In HBD#1221 Greg Habel writes: >Well, I attempted my first all grain batch this past weekend. Using >a rectangular picnic cooler with a copper t'd manifold for mashing >and sparging. Picnic cooler is a 10 gallon. Mashed 6lbs highly >modified pale malt and 8 oz crystal with 6 quarts of 168F water for 1 >hour. ^^^^ Was 168F your strike temperature, or the temperature of the mash? 168F is a little high for saccharification rest, you want a mash temperature of roughly 150F-158F, depending on how much body is desired in the finished beer. >Here's the part I think I screw'd >up. When sparging with 3 gallons of 170F water, I had a very >difficult time of not disturbing the grain bed. Most of the time it >was very turbulent. Anyways, the OG ended up being 1.024!!!! I >quickly went to the fridge and pounded a couple of homebrews, yeast >and all! Here's my question... how important is it that the grain >bed is kept relatively undisturbed while sparging? It's fairly important that the grain bed be disturbed as little as possible once recirculation of the initial runoff is complete and a filter bed established. If the grain bed is disturbed, the chances of particulate matter such as small pieces of grain or husk getting into the brewpot are increased. >How do you add 3 gallons of 170F sparge water without disturbing the >grain bed? Could it be that my cooler is too large, ie the grain bed >is not deep enough? I decided to ferment it anyways. Try using something to diffuse the sparge water as you add it. I mash and sparge in a cylindrical cooler with a colander mounted on top. You might try setting a bowl or plate upside down on the grain bed, and pouring the water slowly onto the bottom of the plate. >Also, will the >liquid turn colorless near the end of the sparge. Mine didn't. The runoff will get lighter in color as the sparge progresses, but it should not get colorless unless you oversparge. >I'd love to give this another shot this weekend. Greg Please do, and let us know how things worked out. *************************************************************** Also in HBD#1221, Bill Kitch writes: >I went all grain several months ago and will never turn back. However, >I've got some new problems. I'm sure you experienced all-grainers can help >me solve them. > 1) I've had haze problems since I started mashing my own > grains. Not chill haze, rather ther beer never clarifies properly. > I know the most likely source is uncoverted starches. However, my > mashes all passed the iodine test (sample taken from top of mash tun). > Is there a better conversion test? Is there another possible source for > this haze? Hmmm, just a hunch, but the fact that the iodine test passed after mashing yet haze appears in the runoff leads me to believe that unconverted starch is indeed the culprit, and that you have a filtration or sparging problem. Check your grind, specifically the condition of the grain husks, they should be intact or nearly so. The more intact the grain husk, the better filtration you will get in the lauter tun. If the husks are excessively torn or in small pieces, you need to grind a little coarser. Your extraction may suffer a little bit, but this is by far the lesser of the two evils, IMHO. Another thing to check is the temperature of the grain bed itself. I read somewhere, in one of Miller's books I believe, that granules of unconverted starch will burst when exposed to temperatures approaching 190F. This releases very fine particles of unconverted starch into the wort, which are all but impossible to filter out in the tun. Measure the temperature of the grain bed, not the sparge water or water on top of the bed, and keep it around 160F or so. > 2) Sparging questions: > a) How much recirculation. "Recirculate until runoff is clear". > Sounds great in print. However, for amber or darker beers this is > not as obvious as is sounds. In last batch I recirculated the first > 5 qts. Is this excessive? Different lautering setups will require different amounts of recirculation, so it's difficult to say whether a given amount of recirculation is excessive or not. I recirculate until the runoff is free of particulate matter, usually 2 to 3 quarts. The runoff is not crystal clear at this point, but it begins to run clear shortly afterwards. I think the purpose of recirculation is to set up the filtration by the grain bed, not to increase yields. When the runoff is free of small chunks of grain, you're there. Of course, this is more difficult to determine with dark beers. When in doubt, I'll collect the runoff in a small glass, and hold it up to the light. This works for all but the darkest stouts. > b) When to stop sparging. "Don't over sparge". I like this about as > much as "cook until done". The three techniques I know of are 1) > sparge until running reach certain gravity (1.010?), 2) Sparge until > pH is too high ( > 5.5?), 3) Sparge until boiler is full. I use a combination of the hydrometer reading and my palate to determine when to stop. From experience, when I've collected 5 gallons of wort, I start taking frequent gravity readings of the runoff. When the gravity of the runoff approaches 1.020, I start tasting the sample. As soon as I detect a taste like hot tea, I stop sparging. With my equipment and procedures, I'll have ~6.5 gallons collected at this point, and the gravity is ~1.010. Your mileage may vary. The problem with oversparging is excessive tannin extraction from the grain husks. This is why I use my palate to determine when to stop. IMHO, numbers like gravity and pH will vary according to water supply, amount and type of grain used, etc., so it's risky to rely solely on these measurements. > 3) Seperating break material & spent hops from wort. When I syphon my > cooled wort from the boiler into the fermenter, my syphon tube clogs > leaving 1/2 to 1 gallon of wort/trub in the boiler. I usually pore the > last of this glog into mason jars, allow the trub to settle and decant > the wort for use as starters. One quart of glog doen't bother me but > for my last triple I was left with nearly a gallon. Again seems > wasteful. Techniques? Equipment? (I know, Jack, I should drill a > hole in the bottom of my boiler and install a SS screen w/tubing etc. > I'm seriously considering this but would like to hear other > alternatives.) Someone else posted this idea a while ago, I can't remember who, try attaching a copper scouring pad to the end of your racking tube. These things are called "Chore Boys" in these parts, they have no soap in them, are easily sanitized by a brief boil, and cool off enough to handle a few seconds after removal from boiling water. I set the end of the racking tube directly on the surface of the break material, they do a superb job of filtering hops and trub, I get every drop of wort and have never had one clog. Apologies for the lengthy post, I hope it helps. Cheers, Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 9:43:19 MDT From: Jeff Benjamin <benji at hpfcbug.fc.hp.com> Subject: Foaming when adding priming sugar I've noticed, at bottling time, when I add my priming sugar to the beer it tends to foam a bit. Anyone else notice this or have a theory why? My guess would be that it is an indication of how much CO2 is dissolved in the beer -- the sugar somehow causes it to be released. So indirectly, it's an indication of how active the yeast in your beer still are, and perhaps an indication of how well your beer will carbonate. BTW, I usually prime with 2/3 cup corn sugar dissolved in a few ounces of hot water. - -- Jeff Benjamin benji at hpfcla.fc.hp.com Hewlett Packard Co. Fort Collins, Colorado "Midnight shakes the memory as a madman shakes a dead geranium." - T.S. Eliot Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1993 11:50:42 -0400 From: esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu Subject: Something new Greetings, I am an extract brewer with about 10 batches under my belt. Mainly because of time constraints, I don't think I'll be trying all-grain brewing for quite some time, but I would like to expand my brewing horizons. Other than brewing particular beers I haven't done before, are there any techniques ingredients etc. that you more experienced brewers would suggest I try? The only half-way unusual ingredient I've added yet was some milk sugar to a stout which is now fermenting. This request may seem out of left field, but I thank you in advance for humoring me and for any suggestions. Please respond by e-mail to :esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu Cheers, Eugene Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 09:10:50 PDT From: 09-Sep-1993 1208 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> Subject: 2-dial regulator vs. 1 dial >Date: Tue, 7 Sep 93 15:58:48 PDT >From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros) >Subject: regulator question > >While we're on the subject of kegging... > >Most of the kegging setups I've seen at shops have regulators on >the CO2 bottles with two "dials". What do the two dials read? Are 2-dial systems usualy have 1 low pressure dial (0-70 PSI or so) and one high-pressure dial (0-2000 PSI). The high-pressure dial is the pressure in your CO2 tank. The low-pressure dial is the pressure maintained in your keg. I guess the only reason for having the high- pressure dial is to help determine when your tank is nearly spent. JC Ferguson Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Sep 93 10:04:40 MST From: "Cisco" <FRANCISCO at osmo.CCIT.Arizona.EDU> Subject: REGULATORS Glenn Anderson writes: Homebrewers desiring the use of this gas should be aware that they must use different regulators as the nitrogen is packed in under higher pressure than CO2. CO2 is normally under 800LBS pressure and CO2 gages normally top out somewhere around this. Nitrogen on the other hand is usually under around 2100LBS and require the appropriate regulator/gages. To keep you from hooking up the low pressure CO2 regulator to the beer mix and blowing your head off, the bottles come with a different valve. It's female, part number is CGA580. ***************************** This is correct ONLY if you're filling your tank with 100% nitrogen and that definitely doesn't work for dispensing beer(you will eventually end up with flat beer because the CO2 in suspension will leave the beer under a blanket of nitrogen). The nitrogen/CO2 mixture is under 1800 lbs pressure and beer dispensing regulators are rated to be safe up to 2400 lbs(I called several regulator distributers to be sure). Also no special value is needed for the special Beer Mix of nitrogen/CO2. John Francisco Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Sep 93 10:26:37 MST From: "Cisco" <FRANCISCO at osmo.CCIT.Arizona.EDU> Subject: BEER MIX REPLY From: korz at iepubj.att.com ************************** Cisco writes: >I have posted a few articles on calculating dispensing pressure with >different diameter/length tubing. If you drink 5 gallons of homebrew >within 2 weeks everything works fine. However, if you only drink a >pint of beer a day, like I do, your beer will eventually become >overcarbonated because the nice cold temperature at which you dispense >the beer also allows the beer to absorb more CO2 over time. My kegs, I >have two on tap all the time, sit for 4 to 6 weeks and could absorb >quite a bit of CO2. No amount of adjusting CO2 pressure will correct >this to pour properly. You could disconnect the CO2 and bleed off >some of it from the kegs and dispense but it's a real pain bleeding >off dissolved CO2 - it takes time and patience. I'm sorry, but I must disagree. If you do the math first and then choose your hose lengths/widths accordingly, you will not have overcarbonation. You just must first choose the temperature and the number of volumes you want in the beer and then choose the pressure, hose lengths, hose diameters based on the formulas give in HBD back issues and in Dave Millers' very good article in the 1992 AHA National Conference Proceedings. If your beer is overcarbonating, the pressure is too high or (as Jack pointed out) the temperature may be higher than you think. *********************************** I'm sorry but I disagree. You obviously have not had any kegs on tap for any extended length of time to notice the gradual effect of CO2 absorbtion at cold temperatures (if you don't believe this can happen then you don't believe in the concept of forced carbonation either). I've been kegging for ten years now and I definitely talk from experience. Also I was the one that gave formulas in HBD back issues on calculating pressure, hose lengths/diameters. The calculations work great if you drink you keg within a few weeks but if you have a stout on tap that you only drink occasionally it will over time absorb more CO2. The alternative is the nitrogen/CO2 gas mixture which slows down the inevitable absorbtion considerably. Someone else mentioned that all you had to do is turn off your CO2 tank and only turn it on when the pressure got too low. This will work if you drink the beer within a few weeks but it will still continue to absorb the CO2 but at a slower rate than if the gas pressure were left on. I'm lazy, I don't want to keep turning the gas on & off so I prefer the nitrogen/CO2 mixture for dispensing. I could also solve this problem by drinking alot more beer(this is tough with two kegs always on tap!) but then I drink for quality flavor enjoyment not for quantity. John Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 12:54:15 CDT From: jay marshall <marshall at pat.mdc.com> Subject: used brewpub equipment Fellow HBD'rs, A buddy of mine is looking at putting together a brewpub here in Texas now that they are legal. He would like to find out if anyone knows of points of contact for locating used brewing equipment, and what the general availability of used systems is. He is interested in getting prices and general installation costs for 2 - 10 bbl systems. Please respond via private email to save HBD bandwidth. thanks, - -- Jay marshall at pat.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 11:01:44 PDT From: 09-Sep-1993 1353 -0400 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com> Subject: replacing keg gaskets, etc. I don't think it is totally necessary to replace _all_ of the gaskets in a soda keg. I have one soda keg that I've used 3 or so times and the only gaskets I replaced was the lid o-ring and the poppet o-rings, for a total cost of less then $1.00. Never had the taste of soda in _any_ brews dispensed from the keg. The only time I'd suggest replacing more gaskets is if they are leaking or you are extremely worried about soda flavor in your brew. In other words, Relax... When you get a dirty keg, wash it out really well. Put boiling hot H20 with soap and shake it; let it sit over night. Rinse. Repeat, hook up the CO2 and dispense, etc. One thing nice about stainless is it cleans well. As for a place to buy parts, I've done business w/ Foxx and BCI. I like BCI better 'cuz I can call 'em on Monday and have stuff at my house by Friday. Although on a couple of occasions, they have screwed up my order... BCI: 800-284-9410. Last I remember, lid o-rings were $0.52, poppet o-rings around $0.12, etc. Buy yourself a bunch and you don't have to sweat it for a while. JC FERGUSON "Kegs 'R' Us" :-) Littleton MA USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 93 20:32:48 GMT From: Martin Wilde <martin at gamma.intel.com> Subject: Yeast Washing When I wash yeast I have a hard time separating the cold break (trub) from the yeast. I know that there is a color difference (white for trub - offwhite for yeast), but I think I end up with some trub in the process. Is the whole idea behind the wash to just remove the fermented wort from the yeast/trub and thats all??? thanks martin Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 14:06 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Colorless runoff/low extraction/dryhopping Rob writes, quoting Greg: >> Here's my question... how important is it that the grain >> bed is kept relatively undisturbed while sparging? Also, will the >> liquid turn colorless near the end of the sparge. Mine didn't. > <edited> >conclusion of sparging; however, if you sparge until the runoff >is colorless, you may be oversparging. There are many ways to >endpoint your sparging operation. I use George Fix's rule >of thumb, that is use 1.25qt water/# grain for the mash and >use the same amount of sparge water/# grain for sparging. This >implies limiting your runoff to 2.5qts sweet wort/# grain. Another >way to endpoint your sparge is to taste the wort periodically. >If the runoff is no longer sweet or has an astringent flavor >(like iced tea), you should terminate the runoff. I >believe you are better off undersparging by a slight amount, >rather than risk tannin extraction as a result of oversparging. I was just reading Beer and Brewing Volume 8 yesterday and ran across something in Dave Miller's talk. I believe he said that at the end of his sparge, he once tasted the runnings and they tasted like tea (and looked like tea). On his next batch, he acidified his sparge water to 5.7pH with 88% Lactic acid (he said it didn't take much) and on his following batch, the end of the sparge was nearly colorless. ******************************************** Regarding Greg's low extraction (5 gal of 1024 from 10# of grain), Miller said in the same talk that the iodine test is unreliable and that because of it, some people mash out too early -- see my hazy beer post in HBD 1222. ******************************************** Jeff writes he plans to dryhop his Christmas ale with 3-4oz of Willamette pellets for 4-6 weeks. I feel that you should save the pellets for boiling and get some whole Willamette hops for dryhopping. Whole hops will float and thus it will be much easier to rack out from under them than with pellets. Also, 3-4 ounces is quite intense for a 5 gallon batch. I usually use 1/2 to 2 ounces. Finally, I feel tat 4-6 weeks is too long, even at 40-45F. At 65-70F, I recommend 7 to 10 days and about two to 2.5 weeks for lagering temperatures. After a while, I feel that more hop aromatics are escaping from the beer to the air than are entering the beer from the hops. This, of course, is unless you are planning to do this in a sealed container. You should probably purge any air that you introduce during dryhopping as oxygen kills hop aroma. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: 09 Sep 93 14:22:20 -0700 From: mbarre at nomvs.lsumc.edu Subject: (none) Jon Palmer iz riet. Liek Galager, Ie doen't think wee need tue ad ennee mor wirdz with simpl spelings but funkee proenunceeashunz tue the Inglish languej. Let's uez trub. Miekel frum Nue Orlins Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Sep 93 12:34:00 -0700 From: CAIN_WILLIAM at Tandem.COM Subject: When should I pick my hops? I planted some cascade and nugget hops this spring and the Cascade's are doing great. While the nuggets have just started to form cones, the Cascades have cones that are between 1/2" and 3" long. I've picked a couple and squeezed them, and they do produce a plesant scent. I'm thinking that it's time to pick them, but how can I know for sure? Also, what is the best way to dry and store them? I have been off of the digest for a couple of months so any suggestions or compilations of previous posts would be greatly appreciated. Bill Cain Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1993 13:51:56 -0700 (PDT) From: Eric Wade <ericwade at CLASS.ORG> Subject: CF chiller cleaning, cooler mashing, Glatt mill, etc. COUNTER FLOW CHILLER CLEANING I'd like a reasonable cleaning and sanitizing procedure for CF chillers. I'm considering building one but feel that merely hot water and idophor probably isn't going to keep it clean over time. On the other hand, I don't quite feel like going through the clean-in-place process outlined in the recent BT issue. What do the rest of you do? COOLER MASHING I've been having some trouble reaching my desired mash temp of 154F by infusing at a ratio of 1.25 qt H2O at 175F per pound of grist. I've also tried using a ratio of 1/1 and adjusting with boiling water. When this didn't work I drew of a fraction of the liquid, boiled and returned to the mash. I used this method on a porter that came out highly phenolic. I thought this was my first experience with an infected batch but a recent post (sorry forgot who or when) suggested a link between tannins and phenols. Could boiling the dark grains cause a phenolic taste in my brew? I don't notice other taste/mouthfeel components I associate with tannins. Also, I'm thinking of starting with hotter water and adjusting with cold water or ice if necessary. Any potential problems with stating with a too hot mash? I understand that the enzymes are not detrimentally affected by short time periods over their active temperature range, correct? GLATT MILL I'd like to hear from anyone who has had a chance to use the Glatt mill, both those who are pleased as well as those who are not. I think I'll ask Santa for a mill for Christmas and whould like to know which one to ask for. PUMP SOURCES I repeat my request for sources for wort pumps. Thank you to Jeff Burton for the lead on the March Manu. pump from C & H. I got the C & H catalog but the pump isn't listed, haven't called them yet. Where did the rest of you RIMS and other pump using brewers get your pumps? Is this a secret society sort of thing; you can't be part of the club until you find a pump all by yourself? Please post the pump sources to the Digest, I received several requests for forwards after my last post on this. Also, at the risk of a flame war, I'd like a public discussion on CF cleaning so we get the pros and cons of the various methods before I choose one. E-mail is fine for other info. Sorry to be so long winded, its been a while. TIA. Eric Wade <ericwade at class.org> Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1993 17:44:30 -0400 From: Bill Flowers <waflowers at qnx.com> Subject: Hoptech's fruit extracts In HBD #1219 (I'm almost caught up with my reading, 30 HBD's in 3 days), Kinney Baughman (BAUGHMANKR at conrad.appstate.edu) wrote: >Someone asked recently about the best way to make a raspberry flavored >beer. I know you have plenty of raspberries in your backyard but a >small plug for the raspberry essence that Mark Garetz of Hoptech >sells: We used it in a raspberry wheat we had on tap at Tumbleweed >this summer and it sold like hotcakes! Mind you, this is a fruit beer >in a town that had never heard of fruit beers! We added the essence >at kegging and it imparted a wonderful raspberry fruit flavor to the >beer that was true to the flavor of raspberries. No artificial >flavors here. The best thing about it was that it was simple, simple, >simple. I have to second this. I added a carefully measured quantity of the raspberry to a bottle of really good cyser and did the same using the cherry in another bottle (I had lots, so I could spare a few bottles). It was excellent, absolutely outstanding! Now I can offer the "original" cyser as well as delicious apple-raspberry and apple-cherry melomels. :-) Also, I'm looking forward to finally making (after a long busy spell with no brewing) a blueberry-wheat beer using the blueberry extract. Some time in the future I'll report on this. The extract sure smells good! Mark, thanks for offering these excellent products (along with your wonderful hops) to the homebrew community. I have no connection with Mark Garetz or Hoptech other than being a very hoppy ;-) and satisfied customer. - --- W.A. (Bill) Flowers email: waflowers at qnx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. QUICS: bill (613) 591-0934 (data) (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 17:03 CDT From: othon at ial7.jsc.nasa.gov (Bill Othon.LinCom) Subject: Scotland/Wales/Ireland I plan to visit the Celtic lands of Scotland, Wales, and Ireland. Any suggestions about breweries or brew pubs in these areas would be greatly appreciated. Also, I remember reading about a compilation of pub locations somewhere on the network; please repost the location of this toothsome database. Thanks -Bill /\ |__| /\ ===================================== / \ | | / \ Bill Othon <othon at ial7.jsc.nasa.gov> / ---| |--- \ Tetherologist \ / LinCom Corporation - Houston Division \ /\/\ /\/\ / (713) 483-1858 \/ \ / \/ \/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1993 15:41:18 -0700 From: Ken Michael Johnson <kmj at leland.Stanford.EDU> Subject: homebrew stores near Palo Alto? Does anyone know of a good homebrew store near Palo Alto. I've been to Fermentation Frenzy, and I was not impressed. I'd like some place with open bins of all grains and a good mill for the optional grinds. A good selection of hops would be nice too. please e-mail me directly thanks kj Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1993 22:05:41 ADT From: PAUL MACDONALD <PMD_VS at ac.nsac.ns.ca> Subject: New Brewer. I would like to know the best book for a beginning brewer. Thank-you! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 93 23:28:07 CDT From: hinz at tidalwave.med.ge.com (David Hinz (hinz at picard.med.ge.com)) Subject: Radlett, England pubs? / OLD bottle cleaning Greetings! I may be travelling for several months to Radlett, England, on business in the near future. The tasting opportunities are overwhelming, and I would really appreciate any hints, tips, or suggestions as to places to go while in the area (like Belgium, for instance ;-) ), and so on. Brand names would be great. Also, what are the laws regarding hand-carrying ale&beer through UK & US customs? How much, if at all, can I bring? - ----------------------- I recently found about a dozen old clear, green, and brown beer bottles mouldering around in a barn floor. There's green stuff growing inside at least the clear ones, and I assume the rest as well. I soaked them for a couple of days in soapy water, and am planning to put them in a 5-gallon pail of bleach water for a few weeks/months. Anything besides this to try? I'd hate to use my nice bottle brush on this scuzzy stuff. The clear bottles will be nice! Someone here (thanks, someone) posted that they use one clear bottle per batch, and use that as their last bottle - kind of a ceremonial type of thing. Well, I've got 5 or 6 of them now, so that might hold me for a while, thanks for the great idea! Dave Hinz Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1223, 09/10/93