FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  King Kooker mod  (Lee=A.=Menegoni)
  fermenting with reckless abandon (esonn1)
  Malt/Wort vs. Dextrose Bottle Priming ("Robert H. Reed")
  gas stove conversion & easymasher (David Atkins)
  CO2 Connection Questions (Chris Cook)
  cardamom (Lance Encell)
  Beer of the month club (Lance Encell)
  Sweet Gale (Bog Myrtle) (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Cooler size, Hop yields NOT (Mike Sadul)
  Arizona and Utah Brewpubs (Mike_ONeil)
  Bass yeast/2.5 gal in a 5 gal carboy/DME priming (korz)
  Specialty malts at mash-out? (npyle)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 08:53:58 EDT
From: Lee=A.=Menegoni at nectech.com
Subject: King Kooker mod 

I did the following mod to my King Kooker this week end.  It works great on
the 6-8 gallons I begin to boil.  No black soot on the bottom of the pot, no
black soot when I turn the flame way down, seems like a more efficent burn.

I removed the brass nut that constitutes the burner.
I plugged the existing hole with a sheet rock screw.
I ground the head end of the screw off flush to the nut.
On an adjacent nut surface I drilled a 1/16" hole.
I replaced the brass nut.

Notes:
1)  I removed about 1/8" - 1/4" from the point of the screw prior to
    insertion so it would not prtrude thru the old hole.

2)  I used the surface "after" the one with the original hole making it
    1/8 turn tighter.  I thought this better than 1/8 turn less.

3)  1/16" was the smallest bit I had.  If all you brew is in the 5 gallon
    range and you are trying to improve the fuel efficiency of the Kooker
    a smaller hole may work.  These brass nut are available in hardware
    stores for half a buck so I may try a smaller hole if I find a smaller
    bit.  

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1993 11:00:39 -0400
From: esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu
Subject: fermenting with reckless abandon

Greetings in HBD land,
        I am having a problem with a current all-extract wheat beer I'm
making.  I have made this same recipe several times, but this is only the
second time I have used a liquid yeast (Wyeast Bavarian Wheat).  The
problem is that it's fermenting so wildly, that it blows the sanitizing
solutions out of my one-way valve and then fills the valve with foam.  The
other time I used this yeast, it fermented quickly, but not so violently. 
I'm still using the cave-man equipment of a single stage fermenter made out
of high grade plastic.  My question is "Is there a way to slow down the
fermentation a bit?".  If not, is there a way I can clear out some of the
foam while minimizing the risk of polluting my beer?  I've been taking the
valve off, pressing down on the cover so a bit of foam comes out and
replacing the valve (all cleaned out and refilled with more sani solution).
 Should I merely relax, don't worry...?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  
Thanks in advance, Eugene


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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1993 11:02:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Robert H. Reed" <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com>
Subject: Malt/Wort vs. Dextrose Bottle Priming

In HBD #1229, p.shaw5 at genie.geis.com writes:
 
> While I'm here and dyslurking, I have another question.  Other than
> spiritual and philosophical blessings, are there any real, tangible
> advantages to priming with DME orusing a gyre to prime?  I'm just an evil
> barbarian extract/dry yeast brewer at this stage in my experience and while
> lots of the stuff I make is quite decent, the flavors are always strong and
> harsh, like a Ben & Jerry's beer.

Theory tells us that due to the differences in the way that yeast ferments
malt and corn sugar, that there will be differences in the beer according
to the priming technique you choose: a beer primed with DME or wort will
go through both respiration and fermentation phases of yeast
metabolism.  During yeast respiration, the yeast consume oxygen on their
journey to reproduction.  The corn sugar primed beer will bypass the 
respiration phase via the crabtree effect.  Theoretically, the malt
primed beer will have better flavor stability as oxygen has been    
scavenged from the bottle during the bottle fermentation. 

Some unsolicited advice:  If you switch to pure liquid yeast cultures,
you can make huge advances in your beer quality.  Using some simple, 
creative culturing techniques, you can use liquid yeast with minimal
price penalty.  All you really lose is the ability to brew on a whim as
brewing good beer with liquid cultures requires the use of a yeast   
starter and its associated leadtime.

***********************************************************************
 **** Rob Reed             Internet: rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com   ****
 **** IC Design Center            Delco Electronics Corporation   ****
***********************************************************************

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 10:45 CDT
From: David Atkins <ATKINS at macc.wisc.edu>
Subject: gas stove conversion & easymasher

Hello readers,
 
I recently came into possession of an efficiency apt. size gas stove
w/range top.  The burners are close enough together to use in tandom in bringing
a 33 quart pot to boil...one pot resting on 2 burners.
 
 
While a gas stove, I don't have a natural gas hookup in the basement and no room
in the kitchen.  I'm looking into converting the stove to propane--hooking up a
portable tank of the gas to the stove.  Has anyone done this?  If so, what
special hardware and safety precautions will I need?  Don't want to turn a brew
session into a moon shot.  Ventilation is no problem but someone in Monday's
list mentioned possible soot residues with propane.  Is there a way to correct
for this?
 
Also, the resent postings on decoction tech's. mention a piece of hardware
called an easymasher.  Could someone describe this item?  Uses and where to
find, etc?
 
Thanks,
David Atkins
atkins at macc.wisc.edu

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Date:    Mon, 20 Sep 1993 16:19:04 GMT
From: COOK at CDHF2.GSFC.NASA.GOV (Chris Cook)
Subject: CO2 Connection Questions

A question about kegging and counter-pressure bottle fillers.  How do
people change fittings to CO2 systems?

I have one CO2 tank that I use for everything.  That means:

  1)  Storing beer at home in the basement.  Because of leaks, I usually
      keep the CO2 disconnected, repressurizing kegs when they need it. 
      The best setup is one gas connection and a long hose.

  2)  Serving beer at group events.  Although for smaller groups I just
      repressurize periodically, for larger events I try to keep CO2
      connections on the popular kegs.  The best setup is a string of gas
      connections spaced closely.

  3)  Counter-pressure bottle filling.  This means one gas connection and
      the CP filler.

The only way I can connect and disconnect this stuff is to get the
wrenches out, and I worry about the wear and tear for the connections and
nylon bushings (which I usually drop at least once).

Is there an easier way to make changes?  Are there quick-disconnects for
the line, or some such?  How do other people work with CP fillers?

Chris Cook
cook at cdhf2.gsfc.nasa.gov

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 10:23:06 CDT
From: lencell at unmc.edu (Lance Encell)
Subject: cardamom

I'm wondering what kind of spice cardamom is?
 -Lance

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 10:21:48 CDT
From: lencell at unmc.edu (Lance Encell)
Subject: Beer of the month club

Could someone fill me in on this beer club.  I hear you can get a case
of beer every month or something.  How does one find out about this?
 -Lance

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 12:29:21 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
Subject: Sweet Gale (Bog Myrtle)

Today, I was reviewing some books on brewing before taking them
back to the library, to see what I might want to copy for my files,
and re-encountered this passage from Odd Nordland's _Brewing and Beer
Tradition on Norway_  I should note that the quotations come from
questionaires filled out by Norwegians about their knowledge and
recollection of old brewing practices.

    The important part played by the grut of Central Europe ... has
    already been discussed  From the fourteenth to the seventeenth
    century, the most important ingredient of this mixture of dried leaves
    and spices was bog myrtle, Myrica gale, which will here also be
    referred to as pors [presumably the Norwegian name].

    The bot myrtle was an important plant in medieval Norway, being
    mentioned as early as in fourteenth-century laws. ... rent for
    farms could be paid in bog myrtle ...

    ... bog myrtle occurs as one of the plants that could be used
    for flavouring ale: `To add a strong flavour to the ale, and to
    make it heady, pors was put into it.  ... It was gathered in
    autumn, and the leaves were also taken.' `When this plant was
    used, the ale was strong.  It went to one's head.  They spoke of
    having a "Christmas head".'

    ... In northern Hordaland, small quantities of pors were added to
    the Christmas ale until the turn of the century. 

    ... `The ale was flavoured with hops mixed with pors.  It was
    slightly yellowish, and had a fresh, sweet taste.  It was said
    locally that when one drank much of it, it was strongly
    intoxicating, with unpleasant after-effects.'

    ... 

    That bog myrtle produces a special effect when added to ale is
    ... well documented in our material, and in earlier sources ...
    Linnaeus ... mention[s] the especially intoxicating effects ...

    ... Does bog myrtle possess the properties that were once ascribed
    to it...? ... chemical analysis has revealed no such properties.
    [One writer] is inclined to believe that there must be some
    substance in the bog myrtle that has the effect described.  But he
    is also open to the suggestion that the belief in a special effect
    gave rise to an increased consumption [that] produced effects of
    the kind described. ... The solution of these problems would ...
    require a compleicated analysis, and as it is of little practical
    value to find the cause of the alleged headaches of bygone ages,
    the question will probably remain unsolved.

It is not clear from this material what part(s) of the plant were
used, except for the mention that "the leaves were also taken."  He
does refer at one point to the shape of the fruit of the plant, so we
might assume that this is what was used.  Certainly, Rajotte refers to
the seeds as the flavoring agent in his Santa's Magic Potion.  In the
American herbal, the most closely related plant is the bayberry, from
which the twigs and roots seem to be used (at least, that's what I can
find in herb shops around here).

=Spencer

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Date: 	Mon, 20 Sep 1993 12:50:00 -0400
From: mike.sadul at canrem.com (Mike Sadul)
Subject: Cooler size, Hop yields NOT

Thanks to all who responed to my cooler size question, both
publicly and via e-mail.  Many of you requested information
about my equipment (price, where purchased, etc.). I responded
to all, except my mailer said I provided one incorrect
address (didn't tell me which one, though).  If you sent
me e-mail and I didn't reply, please let me know.

Re: hop yields

I purchased hop plants this year (yes, little plants, not
rhizomes) VERY late in the growing season through mail-order from
Richters in Goodwood, Ontario, Canada.

I received one each of Cascade, Mt. Hood and Hallertauer.
I planted them on the last weekend in June about 70 miles
north of Toronto.

The Hallertauer only reached a height of around 7 feet, while
the Cascade grew off the end of its pole (around 12 feet).
I am already preparing for next year by searching for 30 foot
saplings.

The Cascade was/is my only producer, with 3 hops. :(
The hops look very sad hanging there all alone.
Perhaps I can use them in a small (1 oz. wort) test sample. :)

The Weatherman predicted ground frost last night, can hop plants
handle a little cold?

Cheers,
Mike
mike.sadul at canrem.com

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Date:           Mon, 20 Sep 93 13:34 EDT
From: Mike_ONeil at vos.stratus.com
Subject:        Arizona and Utah Brewpubs

 My wife and I will be going to Arizona and Utah in a couple of weeks for
vacation and would appreciate any information on brewpubs and microbreweries.

 TIA, MIke

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 14:28 CDT
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: Bass yeast/2.5 gal in a 5 gal carboy/DME priming

Bob writes:
>I want to make the Bass Ale recipe listed on page 32 of The
>Cat's Meow II & was wondering what style of Wyeast liquid yeast
>I should use??

I recommend that you use Wyeast #1028, London Ale, which is reported to
be the Whiteshield strain (Whiteshield being a bottle conditioned beer
made by Bass -- at least it used to be bottle conditioned -- now, I don't
know).

*****************************
Denis writes:
>we want to attempt to brew 
>2.5 gallons of beer in a five gallon carboy (we want to brew two types of beer 
>and feel ten gallons of beer would be a little excessive :) ).
 
>Has anyone out there done this before?  Can anyone think of any possible 
>problems that may occur?  (Basically we are worried about oxidation)!

Don't worry, to borrow a phrase from Charlie... when you just add the
wort to the carboy, you will have air in there, but that's when you want
oxygen entering your wort.  Later, when fermentation begins, the air will
be pushed out of the carboy by the CO2 that the yeast produces (CO2 is
heavier than air).  See... no problem!

***************************
p.shaw writes:

>Other than
>spiritual and philosophical blessings, are there any real, tangible
>advantages to priming with DME orusing a gyle to prime?

Personally, I started by using dextrose for priming.  Then I went to DME
because I had read so much about the "EVILS OF ADDING CORN SUGAR TO YOUR
BEER."  Eventually, I switched back to dextrose most because I think
it's easier.

On some of my batches primed with DME, I noticed a sort of floating, "oily"
scum on the top of the beer in the bottle.  Some have written that this is
similar to the kraeusen ring in the fermenter, but I have reason to doubt
it.  I think it's protein from the DME priming solution.  If I'm correct
in this assumption, it should be remedied by force cooling the DME priming
solution so that cold break forms and is not added to the priming vessel
(is left behind).  See what I mean about dextrose being easier?  Since
switching back to dextrose priming, I have yet to see this scum in my
bottles.  I would test this theory myself, but since I'm having trouble
finding time to brew, I would suspect it will take years for this test
to reach the top of my list.  Any takers?

Al.

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Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 16:27:46 MDT
From: npyle at n33.stortek.com
Subject: Specialty malts at mash-out?

Jack sez:

>>From: birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland)
>
>>Raised to 75 C, held for 10 min mash-out.  Added crystal malt.
>
>I question this strategy but not knowing your reasons, I will simply state
>that I mix all grains together as I weigh them and the crush them together.
>I know of no reason to keep them separate.

I know of a couple.  For crystal malt, the starch -> sugar conversion has
supposedly already taken place in the process.  Crystal malt is kilned at a
high temperature (160F+???), causing the enzymes to convert the starch to
"unfermentable" sugars.  It is then dried, forming sugar crystals within the
kernels, thus the name (one of several).  It is not necessarily a bad thing
to add this to your mash but it is likely that some of the "unfermentable"
sugars in it will be broken down by the enzymes in the mash into fermentable
sugars and some of the desired sweetness will be lost.  Granted, this is
probably a small portion of the sugar in the malt, but some sweetness will be
lost.

For other specialty grains, like chocolate and black patent, I like to add them
at mash-out time as well.  In this case, I've noticed a harshness extracted
from the dark grains if left in for the entire mash cycle.  It has never
appeared to me in my beers when I added the dark grains at mash out.  With dark
grains, the intention for me is to add some color, and roasted flavor.  I can
get a really smooth brown ale with my method, but I like the beer much less if
the dark grains are mashed with the pale malt.  I've also noticed this with at
least one microbrew, although others have not.  It may just be something I'm
sensitive to.  I've not brewed a stout, though, so I don't know how this method
works in that arena.

 ...

Lee, sorry to be a tough crowd.  I _do_ appreciate your explanations re: the pH
adjustments.  Maybe I'm just jealous about your awesomely malty lagers, but I'm
also fortunate that my favorite beer styles (US and UK hoppy ales) can be done
with a simple infusion.

 ...

Fairly often someone (this time Denis Trudeau) asks about brewing small batches
in a large carboy wrt oxidation.  I do this virtually every time:  brew 5
gallon batches in a 7 gallon carboy.  This gives more surface area than, say
2.5 gallons in a 5 gallon carboy because the diameter of the 7 is larger.
Anyway, I have had no discernable oxidation problems and was wondering if
others have had any trouble.  (This question is aside from blowoff
considerations, Al!)

 ...

John asks about carbonation and pouring methods.  Sorry, John I've got no
answers, just more uncertainty.  I've heard a half a dozen ways to "properly"
pour beer.  Here's a sample:

1) Pour down the side of the glass to start (to see how much carbonation is
   there) and finish off at the top with as much turbulence as is necessary
   to create a 1" head.

2) Pour down the middle of the glass to start and then ease off (i.e. pour down
   the side to achieve the magical, mythical 1" head.

3) Pour down the side of the glass (a good beer shouldn't need help in forming
   a nice head).  I believe this one was from M. Jackson, but I can't swear to
   it.

4) Pour down the middle of the glass until full of head.  Stop.  Wait for head
   to drop.  Repeat until you achieve the quintessential 1" head.

There are others, but I suggest:  Pour it the way you like it.  One of the
reasons we homebrew is to do things the way we like them.  Pouring should be no
different.

 ...

Jonathan wants a FAQ for FAQs.  Hmmm, are we getting high-tech or what?

 ...

Cheers,
Norm

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1230, 09/21/93