HOMEBREW Digest #1230 Tue 21 September 1993

Digest #1229 Digest #1231

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  King Kooker mod  (Lee=A.=Menegoni)
  fermenting with reckless abandon (esonn1)
  Malt/Wort vs. Dextrose Bottle Priming ("Robert H. Reed")
  gas stove conversion & easymasher (David Atkins)
  CO2 Connection Questions (Chris Cook)
  cardamom (Lance Encell)
  Beer of the month club (Lance Encell)
  Sweet Gale (Bog Myrtle) (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Cooler size, Hop yields NOT (Mike Sadul)
  Arizona and Utah Brewpubs (Mike_ONeil)
  Bass yeast/2.5 gal in a 5 gal carboy/DME priming (korz)
  Specialty malts at mash-out? (npyle)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 08:53:58 EDT From: Lee=A.=Menegoni at nectech.com Subject: King Kooker mod I did the following mod to my King Kooker this week end. It works great on the 6-8 gallons I begin to boil. No black soot on the bottom of the pot, no black soot when I turn the flame way down, seems like a more efficent burn. I removed the brass nut that constitutes the burner. I plugged the existing hole with a sheet rock screw. I ground the head end of the screw off flush to the nut. On an adjacent nut surface I drilled a 1/16" hole. I replaced the brass nut. Notes: 1) I removed about 1/8" - 1/4" from the point of the screw prior to insertion so it would not prtrude thru the old hole. 2) I used the surface "after" the one with the original hole making it 1/8 turn tighter. I thought this better than 1/8 turn less. 3) 1/16" was the smallest bit I had. If all you brew is in the 5 gallon range and you are trying to improve the fuel efficiency of the Kooker a smaller hole may work. These brass nut are available in hardware stores for half a buck so I may try a smaller hole if I find a smaller bit. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1993 11:00:39 -0400 From: esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu Subject: fermenting with reckless abandon Greetings in HBD land, I am having a problem with a current all-extract wheat beer I'm making. I have made this same recipe several times, but this is only the second time I have used a liquid yeast (Wyeast Bavarian Wheat). The problem is that it's fermenting so wildly, that it blows the sanitizing solutions out of my one-way valve and then fills the valve with foam. The other time I used this yeast, it fermented quickly, but not so violently. I'm still using the cave-man equipment of a single stage fermenter made out of high grade plastic. My question is "Is there a way to slow down the fermentation a bit?". If not, is there a way I can clear out some of the foam while minimizing the risk of polluting my beer? I've been taking the valve off, pressing down on the cover so a bit of foam comes out and replacing the valve (all cleaned out and refilled with more sani solution). Should I merely relax, don't worry...? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Eugene Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1993 11:02:14 -0400 (EDT) From: "Robert H. Reed" <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com> Subject: Malt/Wort vs. Dextrose Bottle Priming In HBD #1229, p.shaw5 at genie.geis.com writes: > While I'm here and dyslurking, I have another question. Other than > spiritual and philosophical blessings, are there any real, tangible > advantages to priming with DME orusing a gyre to prime? I'm just an evil > barbarian extract/dry yeast brewer at this stage in my experience and while > lots of the stuff I make is quite decent, the flavors are always strong and > harsh, like a Ben & Jerry's beer. Theory tells us that due to the differences in the way that yeast ferments malt and corn sugar, that there will be differences in the beer according to the priming technique you choose: a beer primed with DME or wort will go through both respiration and fermentation phases of yeast metabolism. During yeast respiration, the yeast consume oxygen on their journey to reproduction. The corn sugar primed beer will bypass the respiration phase via the crabtree effect. Theoretically, the malt primed beer will have better flavor stability as oxygen has been scavenged from the bottle during the bottle fermentation. Some unsolicited advice: If you switch to pure liquid yeast cultures, you can make huge advances in your beer quality. Using some simple, creative culturing techniques, you can use liquid yeast with minimal price penalty. All you really lose is the ability to brew on a whim as brewing good beer with liquid cultures requires the use of a yeast starter and its associated leadtime. *********************************************************************** **** Rob Reed Internet: rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com **** **** IC Design Center Delco Electronics Corporation **** *********************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 10:45 CDT From: David Atkins <ATKINS at macc.wisc.edu> Subject: gas stove conversion & easymasher Hello readers, I recently came into possession of an efficiency apt. size gas stove w/range top. The burners are close enough together to use in tandom in bringing a 33 quart pot to boil...one pot resting on 2 burners. While a gas stove, I don't have a natural gas hookup in the basement and no room in the kitchen. I'm looking into converting the stove to propane--hooking up a portable tank of the gas to the stove. Has anyone done this? If so, what special hardware and safety precautions will I need? Don't want to turn a brew session into a moon shot. Ventilation is no problem but someone in Monday's list mentioned possible soot residues with propane. Is there a way to correct for this? Also, the resent postings on decoction tech's. mention a piece of hardware called an easymasher. Could someone describe this item? Uses and where to find, etc? Thanks, David Atkins atkins at macc.wisc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1993 16:19:04 GMT From: COOK at CDHF2.GSFC.NASA.GOV (Chris Cook) Subject: CO2 Connection Questions A question about kegging and counter-pressure bottle fillers. How do people change fittings to CO2 systems? I have one CO2 tank that I use for everything. That means: 1) Storing beer at home in the basement. Because of leaks, I usually keep the CO2 disconnected, repressurizing kegs when they need it. The best setup is one gas connection and a long hose. 2) Serving beer at group events. Although for smaller groups I just repressurize periodically, for larger events I try to keep CO2 connections on the popular kegs. The best setup is a string of gas connections spaced closely. 3) Counter-pressure bottle filling. This means one gas connection and the CP filler. The only way I can connect and disconnect this stuff is to get the wrenches out, and I worry about the wear and tear for the connections and nylon bushings (which I usually drop at least once). Is there an easier way to make changes? Are there quick-disconnects for the line, or some such? How do other people work with CP fillers? Chris Cook cook at cdhf2.gsfc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 10:23:06 CDT From: lencell at unmc.edu (Lance Encell) Subject: cardamom I'm wondering what kind of spice cardamom is? -Lance Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 10:21:48 CDT From: lencell at unmc.edu (Lance Encell) Subject: Beer of the month club Could someone fill me in on this beer club. I hear you can get a case of beer every month or something. How does one find out about this? -Lance Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 12:29:21 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Sweet Gale (Bog Myrtle) Today, I was reviewing some books on brewing before taking them back to the library, to see what I might want to copy for my files, and re-encountered this passage from Odd Nordland's _Brewing and Beer Tradition on Norway_ I should note that the quotations come from questionaires filled out by Norwegians about their knowledge and recollection of old brewing practices. The important part played by the grut of Central Europe ... has already been discussed From the fourteenth to the seventeenth century, the most important ingredient of this mixture of dried leaves and spices was bog myrtle, Myrica gale, which will here also be referred to as pors [presumably the Norwegian name]. The bot myrtle was an important plant in medieval Norway, being mentioned as early as in fourteenth-century laws. ... rent for farms could be paid in bog myrtle ... ... bog myrtle occurs as one of the plants that could be used for flavouring ale: `To add a strong flavour to the ale, and to make it heady, pors was put into it. ... It was gathered in autumn, and the leaves were also taken.' `When this plant was used, the ale was strong. It went to one's head. They spoke of having a "Christmas head".' ... In northern Hordaland, small quantities of pors were added to the Christmas ale until the turn of the century. ... `The ale was flavoured with hops mixed with pors. It was slightly yellowish, and had a fresh, sweet taste. It was said locally that when one drank much of it, it was strongly intoxicating, with unpleasant after-effects.' ... That bog myrtle produces a special effect when added to ale is ... well documented in our material, and in earlier sources ... Linnaeus ... mention[s] the especially intoxicating effects ... ... Does bog myrtle possess the properties that were once ascribed to it...? ... chemical analysis has revealed no such properties. [One writer] is inclined to believe that there must be some substance in the bog myrtle that has the effect described. But he is also open to the suggestion that the belief in a special effect gave rise to an increased consumption [that] produced effects of the kind described. ... The solution of these problems would ... require a compleicated analysis, and as it is of little practical value to find the cause of the alleged headaches of bygone ages, the question will probably remain unsolved. It is not clear from this material what part(s) of the plant were used, except for the mention that "the leaves were also taken." He does refer at one point to the shape of the fruit of the plant, so we might assume that this is what was used. Certainly, Rajotte refers to the seeds as the flavoring agent in his Santa's Magic Potion. In the American herbal, the most closely related plant is the bayberry, from which the twigs and roots seem to be used (at least, that's what I can find in herb shops around here). =Spencer Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1993 12:50:00 -0400 From: mike.sadul at canrem.com (Mike Sadul) Subject: Cooler size, Hop yields NOT Thanks to all who responed to my cooler size question, both publicly and via e-mail. Many of you requested information about my equipment (price, where purchased, etc.). I responded to all, except my mailer said I provided one incorrect address (didn't tell me which one, though). If you sent me e-mail and I didn't reply, please let me know. Re: hop yields I purchased hop plants this year (yes, little plants, not rhizomes) VERY late in the growing season through mail-order from Richters in Goodwood, Ontario, Canada. I received one each of Cascade, Mt. Hood and Hallertauer. I planted them on the last weekend in June about 70 miles north of Toronto. The Hallertauer only reached a height of around 7 feet, while the Cascade grew off the end of its pole (around 12 feet). I am already preparing for next year by searching for 30 foot saplings. The Cascade was/is my only producer, with 3 hops. :( The hops look very sad hanging there all alone. Perhaps I can use them in a small (1 oz. wort) test sample. :) The Weatherman predicted ground frost last night, can hop plants handle a little cold? Cheers, Mike mike.sadul at canrem.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 13:34 EDT From: Mike_ONeil at vos.stratus.com Subject: Arizona and Utah Brewpubs My wife and I will be going to Arizona and Utah in a couple of weeks for vacation and would appreciate any information on brewpubs and microbreweries. TIA, MIke Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 14:28 CDT From: korz at iepubj.att.com Subject: Bass yeast/2.5 gal in a 5 gal carboy/DME priming Bob writes: >I want to make the Bass Ale recipe listed on page 32 of The >Cat's Meow II & was wondering what style of Wyeast liquid yeast >I should use?? I recommend that you use Wyeast #1028, London Ale, which is reported to be the Whiteshield strain (Whiteshield being a bottle conditioned beer made by Bass -- at least it used to be bottle conditioned -- now, I don't know). ***************************** Denis writes: >we want to attempt to brew >2.5 gallons of beer in a five gallon carboy (we want to brew two types of beer >and feel ten gallons of beer would be a little excessive :) ). >Has anyone out there done this before? Can anyone think of any possible >problems that may occur? (Basically we are worried about oxidation)! Don't worry, to borrow a phrase from Charlie... when you just add the wort to the carboy, you will have air in there, but that's when you want oxygen entering your wort. Later, when fermentation begins, the air will be pushed out of the carboy by the CO2 that the yeast produces (CO2 is heavier than air). See... no problem! *************************** p.shaw writes: >Other than >spiritual and philosophical blessings, are there any real, tangible >advantages to priming with DME orusing a gyle to prime? Personally, I started by using dextrose for priming. Then I went to DME because I had read so much about the "EVILS OF ADDING CORN SUGAR TO YOUR BEER." Eventually, I switched back to dextrose most because I think it's easier. On some of my batches primed with DME, I noticed a sort of floating, "oily" scum on the top of the beer in the bottle. Some have written that this is similar to the kraeusen ring in the fermenter, but I have reason to doubt it. I think it's protein from the DME priming solution. If I'm correct in this assumption, it should be remedied by force cooling the DME priming solution so that cold break forms and is not added to the priming vessel (is left behind). See what I mean about dextrose being easier? Since switching back to dextrose priming, I have yet to see this scum in my bottles. I would test this theory myself, but since I'm having trouble finding time to brew, I would suspect it will take years for this test to reach the top of my list. Any takers? Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 20 Sep 93 16:27:46 MDT From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: Specialty malts at mash-out? Jack sez: >>From: birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland) > >>Raised to 75 C, held for 10 min mash-out. Added crystal malt. > >I question this strategy but not knowing your reasons, I will simply state >that I mix all grains together as I weigh them and the crush them together. >I know of no reason to keep them separate. I know of a couple. For crystal malt, the starch -> sugar conversion has supposedly already taken place in the process. Crystal malt is kilned at a high temperature (160F+???), causing the enzymes to convert the starch to "unfermentable" sugars. It is then dried, forming sugar crystals within the kernels, thus the name (one of several). It is not necessarily a bad thing to add this to your mash but it is likely that some of the "unfermentable" sugars in it will be broken down by the enzymes in the mash into fermentable sugars and some of the desired sweetness will be lost. Granted, this is probably a small portion of the sugar in the malt, but some sweetness will be lost. For other specialty grains, like chocolate and black patent, I like to add them at mash-out time as well. In this case, I've noticed a harshness extracted from the dark grains if left in for the entire mash cycle. It has never appeared to me in my beers when I added the dark grains at mash out. With dark grains, the intention for me is to add some color, and roasted flavor. I can get a really smooth brown ale with my method, but I like the beer much less if the dark grains are mashed with the pale malt. I've also noticed this with at least one microbrew, although others have not. It may just be something I'm sensitive to. I've not brewed a stout, though, so I don't know how this method works in that arena. ... Lee, sorry to be a tough crowd. I _do_ appreciate your explanations re: the pH adjustments. Maybe I'm just jealous about your awesomely malty lagers, but I'm also fortunate that my favorite beer styles (US and UK hoppy ales) can be done with a simple infusion. ... Fairly often someone (this time Denis Trudeau) asks about brewing small batches in a large carboy wrt oxidation. I do this virtually every time: brew 5 gallon batches in a 7 gallon carboy. This gives more surface area than, say 2.5 gallons in a 5 gallon carboy because the diameter of the 7 is larger. Anyway, I have had no discernable oxidation problems and was wondering if others have had any trouble. (This question is aside from blowoff considerations, Al!) ... John asks about carbonation and pouring methods. Sorry, John I've got no answers, just more uncertainty. I've heard a half a dozen ways to "properly" pour beer. Here's a sample: 1) Pour down the side of the glass to start (to see how much carbonation is there) and finish off at the top with as much turbulence as is necessary to create a 1" head. 2) Pour down the middle of the glass to start and then ease off (i.e. pour down the side to achieve the magical, mythical 1" head. 3) Pour down the side of the glass (a good beer shouldn't need help in forming a nice head). I believe this one was from M. Jackson, but I can't swear to it. 4) Pour down the middle of the glass until full of head. Stop. Wait for head to drop. Repeat until you achieve the quintessential 1" head. There are others, but I suggest: Pour it the way you like it. One of the reasons we homebrew is to do things the way we like them. Pouring should be no different. ... Jonathan wants a FAQ for FAQs. Hmmm, are we getting high-tech or what? ... Cheers, Norm Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1230, 09/21/93