HOMEBREW Digest #1232 Thu 23 September 1993

Digest #1231 Digest #1233

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Grainmill information request (BOKENKAM)
  CHERRY PORTER (Elaine Boris)
  Temperature Adjustments (Kieran O'Connor)
  Silver soldering (Peter OConnor)
  DD yeast/mash oxidation/blowoff (npyle)
  Sam Smith Hops (Michael Inglis)
  thanks/haze/oldish starter(?)/easymasher (David Atkins)
  Blowoff and Silver Solder Comments.... (STBLEZA)
  partial-mash question(s) (Jonathan G Knight)
  Beer in Telluride? (Lance Encell)
  re malt v dextrose (Chip Hitchcock)
  Have Brew Keg - What Now? (Cecil Clontz)
  kegging/infection(?) question (David Allison 225-5764)
  Easy Masher (Paul Boor)
  cloning Samuel Smith beers (Lee=A.=Menegoni)
  Can the liquid loss in a blow off setup be minimized? (lyons)
  fermentation substrate and flavor... (One Lain Meyer)
  RE: Mailing Brew ("DEV::SJK")
  Zymurgy and Tix to GABF ("Dennis Lewis" )
  soldering keg fittings (Chuck Wettergreen)
  wierd yeast activity (Chuck Wettergreen)
  St. Pat's of Texas (sbsgrad)
  Brazing vs Silver-soldering vs TIG welding (Kelly Jones)
  Barley diseases (MURRAYT)
  Interactive CD-ROM (Marty Hicks)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 04:55:15 CDT From: BOKENKAM at ucs.indiana.edu Subject: Grainmill information request I am covered with shame, embarrassment, and residue. The richness of HBD overwhelms me and, having other interests, I plead guilty to precipitate zapping. Now, I find that my grainmill has gone south (where I foolishly sent all that HBD wisdom) and I am in need. I seem to remember that a new grainmill was announced, but heeded not. Now I quiver to know, being desirous of fine crush (almost powderlike, with intact husks) and minimal gelt requirements. Gods, do not tell me that there is a FAQ-file; do not overwhelm me with penitential test results, but respond, I beseech thee, to Bokenkam at ucs.indiana.edu. Yr. humble svt. S. Bokenkamp Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 09:15:22 EDT From: Elaine Boris <EBORIS at UGA.CC.UGA.EDU> Subject: CHERRY PORTER Greetings & Happy Equinox, Back in July I had asked about making a half batch of cherry stout in my 7 gal secondary. I want to thank, belatedly, everyone for their input and suggestions. They encouraged me to give it a try. I ended up making more of a porter than a stout and I was very pleased with the sample I had this weekend. The only problem is that the carbonation is low, and no head to the beer. There is enough so that you wouldn't call it flat and it stays carbonated even with a slow sipper like myself. I used cherry extract (w/pits, unpasteurized) because several HBDers suggested it and also the available cherries looked unwholesome. I started with 8 oz that I added to the primary fermenter, but when I racked to the secondary and sampled a little, it had no cherry flavor so I added 8oz more. Now the cherry flavor is there but subtle. INDEPENDENCE CHERRY PORTER 7/05/93 4 GALS BOTTLED 7/18/93 1 LB EXTRA DARK DME ( -1 CUP FOR PRIMING) 1 CAN MUNTON & FISON AMBER HOPPED MALT EXTRACT (3.3LB CAN) 1 LB CRYSTAL MALT (CRUSHED) 2 CUPS CHOCOLATE GRAIN MALT (CRUSHED) 1 CUPS BLACK PATENT GRAIN MALT (CRUSHED) 1 IN BREWING LICORICE .5 TSP SALT .5 TSP CALSIUM CARB 2 TSP GYPSUM 1 OZ NORTHERN BREWERS HOPS PELLETS 60 MIN BOIL .5 OZ NORTHERN BREWERS HOPS PELLETS 30 MIN BOIL .5 OZ KENT GOLDING HOPS PELLETS 5 MIN BOIL 1 PKT WHITBREAD LIQUID ALE YEAST (WYEAST 1098) 8 0Z CHERRY EXTRACT 8 OZ CHERRY EXTRACT - ADDED AFTER RACKED TO SECONDARY FERMENTER 1 CUP DME FOR PRIMING STARTING SG . . . . .1.050 (BEFORE EXTRA CHERRY EXTRACT WAS ADDED) ENDING SG . . . . .1.022 (OOPS - AFTER PRIMING SUGAR WAS ADDED) I steeped the crushed grains 45 min in 150 degree water and then sparged with warm water into my brew kettle. I had a vigorous fermantation going about 5 hours (that evening when I checked) later. I racked to the glass secondary after about 4 days, bubbling had slowed but not stopped and then bottled about 9 days after that. Elaine Boris Student Information Systems Computer Services Specialist University of Georgia 706 542-0484 Athens Georgia Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1993 09:43:00 -0400 (EDT) From: Kieran O'Connor <koconnor at mailbox.syr.edu> Subject: Temperature Adjustments Awhile back I read Miller's book--and finally took one of his pieces of advice to heart. I checked the calibration of both my Thermometers and my hydrometer. As it turned out--my hydrometer is ok--and my floating thermometer is. But my bi-metal probe type thermometer was off by 4 degrees F. It has a locking nut on it--so I boiled it in distilled water and calibrated it. At the school I work in--in Cortland NY--we are at 1000 ft elevation, so my science teacher friend said to calibrate it to 98C for boiling--given the altitude. now my question in--if the temps we use, say for mashing (148-158F) need to be somewhat accurate--do we need to make adjustments across the board? Shoudl i now lower my mash temps 4 degrees F when I brew in Cortland? It seems that if I did not--the if I were mashing at 154--the real temp would be 158F--a significant difference. Any thoughts? Kieran O'Connor E-Mail Address: koconnor at mailbox.syr.edu Syracuse, N.Y. USA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 09:57:24 EDT From: poconnor at lager.tn.cornell.edu (Peter OConnor) Subject: Silver soldering Hi Brewers, Wayde Nie asks about using silver solder on a SS wort boiler. One problem that I see is that silver solder typically doesn't wet Stainless steel. You might be able to find some that specifically does work on SS, but you should be careful to avoid leaded solders and solders that melt at low temperatures. You dont want that seal coming loose in the middle of a boil. 8-). -Pete Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 8:49:39 MDT From: npyle at n33.stortek.com Subject: DD yeast/mash oxidation/blowoff steveinmass asks about borrowing some yeast from Double Diamond bottles. I had a DD last night and didn't notice any yeast. Shortly after I emptied the bottle my wife poured hot frying oil in it, so if they were there they died a horrible screaming death. May we have a moment of silence... ... I also wasn't too impressed with the pale ale but that's a different story. Am I the only one who's noticed this problem with ales from the UK: they are overcarbonated! I'm talking about the common UK ales like DD, Bass, and Watney's. Now I know they carbonate them more for the US market but this is ridiculous. I like to be able to drink more than one sip between burps and well, I can't with these beers. It also doesn't help the taste any. I much prefer a good American pale ale these days; the imports can't touch 'em, at least not the imports that I get (slow dock, slow boat, slow dock, slow warehouse, slow truck/train, etc. etc.). Of course, though I love it, SNPA is overcarbonated IMHO, too. ... Oxidation during the mash is a potential problem area, contrary to old wisdom. When I first got into brewing, I read that hop constituents were the cause of oxidation reactions which in turn caused stability problems. Now, it is apparent that malt constituents contribute to this as well. Without getting into details of which I know little, it will suffice to say that treating a hot mash the same way you treat hot wort is wise (i.e. no splashing, dumping, etc.). ... Al, I plan to brew a(nother) pale ale in a couple of weeks, and I would consider trying a blowoff/non-blowoff test with it. I could conceivably make about a 8 gallon batch, putting 5 in my 5 gallon carboy (blowoff) and 3 in my 7 gallon carboy (non-blowoff). The problem with this is that I couldn't then do a secondary, which is standard at my brewery. Any suggestions? Am I wasting my time? - -- Norm Pyle, Staff Engineer Head Brewer, Storage Technology Corporation Pyledriver Brewery, A Non-Profit Organization 2270 South 88th Street 1500 Elmhurst Drive Louisville, CO 80028-0211 Longmont, CO 80503-2323 (303) 673-8884 npyle at n33.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 07:56:39 PDT From: mri10 at mfg.amdahl.com (Michael Inglis) Subject: Sam Smith Hops Question: Does anyone know what hop variety is used in Samual Smiths Pale Ale for flavor/aroma? I think it may be the same as is used in Beck's. Saaz perhaps? Email is fine for answers. Thanks. Mike Inglis mri10 at charon.amdahl.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 10:06 CDT From: David Atkins <ATKINS at macc.wisc.edu> Subject: thanks/haze/oldish starter(?)/easymasher Hello all, Thanks to all those folks providing advice on converting a nat. gas stove to LP. I was fortunate to receive a slew of response will good suggestions and care for and my apartments well-being. And now for some more advice: I may have a haze in my extract/specialty grain beer. It was several days ago when I drew a sample to F.G. and taste. The recipe is a modification of a NCJ porter (amber extract with crushed crystal, choc, black, and toasted malts). When we bottle tonight and the beer's clear there will be know worries, but FMI, for my information, could I inflict a starch or protein haze with specialty malts? I had pleasing hot and cold breaks. If find off flavors w/ haze I know the verdict. Speaking of beer, I was unable to brew this past weekend, leaving 2 cups of yeast lab american ale 'starting' in a wine bottle. Has anyone or knows of anyone who has had a starter starting for a week. Can I salvage it by adding what I already have to a couple more cups of sterile wort? Is it too late to put the bottle in 'fridge to keep? An air lock has been afixed since the get go so sanitation may not be an issue. Speaking of starters, sometime before the end of this decade, I hope to be competent enough for all-graining. I haven't gotten any info on the mysterious easymasher. If anyone could give me some info. on the item, I'd be grateful (as in thanks, definitely not dead) Thanks, David atkins at macc.wisc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Sep 1993 11:25:11 -0400 (EDT) From: STBLEZA at grove.iup.edu Subject: Blowoff and Silver Solder Comments.... Eugene <esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu> wrote: > I am having a problem with a current all-extract wheat beer I'm >making. I have made this same recipe several times, but this is only the >second time I have used a liquid yeast (Wyeast Bavarian Wheat). The >problem is that it's fermenting so wildly, that it blows the sanitizing >solutions out of my one-way valve and then fills the valve with foam. The As far as the blowoff goes, you could attach a large, sanitized balloon to the top of your carbouy. Remember to attach it well (I use Duct Tape), or it will re-distribute the foam ALL OVER THE ROOM. Also, it should be large so that it won't burst (mine are about a foot long un-inflated). This allows the blowoff to not be lost, so you keep all of the material it contains (good or bad) while not letting any nasties in. Once the foam has gone down, I replace the balloon with a fermentation lock. BTW, a large mouthed fermentor won't work with the balloon since you can't get the balloon over the mouth. Also, don't use condoms, they have lubricants and poisons in them. Hope this helps. - ------------------------------ Wayde Nie <u9106857 at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> wrote: >Hi All, > What is the collective net wisdom on using silver solder to >install the fittings into to base of a converted keg style boiler. I >would think that soldering would be less of an undertaking than >paying someone to weld SS. Most silver solders contain more than 40 percent LEAD. Since we are talking about food related equipment (at least I assume you intend on drinking your homebrewed beer), using lead bearing solder does not seem like a good idea. There are, however, silver solders that don't contain lead, so be certain to check carefully the solder you use. Also, all of the non-lead solders that I've personally dealt with require special equipment and techniques to use them effectively (this has been mostly Sterling Silver wire used by audiophile freinds), and are designed for very low resistance electrical components, not structurial/mechanical support as you intend, so I don't know if it will hold well. I have heard of non-silver, non-lead solders designed for food related and cooking equipment, but I have no idea where to get such things, or how to use them even if I had them... - ------------------------------ Both comments appeared in: HOMEBREW Digest #1231, 09/22/93 The Kingdom of AEthelmeark: It can't be far away, and it can't be too soon. +*****************************************+***********************************+ | WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! |1,000,000 Lemmings Can't be Wrong! | | The Surgeon General has declared that |-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-| | conversing with this Internet user can |Jacobus Jager Draake | | lead to cronic health problems that can |(AKA J. Hunter Heinlen) | | result in disfunction of the brain, |(SCANet:1640.Netherlands.Cavalier) | | heart, nervous system, and bowels. |(Internet:STBLEZA at GROVE.IUP.EDU) | +=========================================++==================================+ I can prove, demonstratably, that if none | The SCA... A Dream to Some, of us looks at the Moon, it does not exist.| A Nightmare to Others! Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1993 11:36:18 -0500 (cdt) From: Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ at AC.GRIN.EDU> Subject: partial-mash question(s) I have 27 extract brews which have at various times been under my belt, and I am thinking about making this year's Christmas Ale a partial-mash brew. I don't have the equipment for all-grain, but I'd like to experiment. I have many questions, but I'll start with just one, in the interests of "bandwidth", and also hoping that by getting responses to my questions one at a time, eventually I'll get them all answered! So here is my first question. I have heard or thought of a couple different ways of handling the four pounds or so of grain I'll be dealing with. (1) Put all the grains in a grain bag, go through the various temperature rests, and instead of the "mashout" remove the bag and either just squeeze the liquid out of the bag by mashing (sic) it down in a colander placed across the top of the kettle or running 170F. water through the bag/colander or both. (2) Don't use a bag; at the end of the mash, dump the liquor and grains into a kettle, then pour back through the colander to catch the grains and then sparge; (3) get another plastic bucket and drill holes to make the double-bucket lautering system; (4) fabricate that portable easymasher thing with the copper tube w/ screen or choreboy attached that rises over the side of the kettle and can drain into another vessel. Which method would be considered preferable, and what are the pro's/con's of each? Is there a way I haven't thought of? Is there one of the above I should definitely NOT do? Okay, so that was four questions, give me a break. I would vastly prefer (1) or (2) for the sake of simplicity and minimal investment of time (not fabricating things), unless I'm likely to produce off- flavors or I might get such lousy extraction that it will not have been worth the effort. Sorry about the FAQ on FAQ's a while back. Actually, the irony was not lost on me when I posted my request, so I'm glad if some of you got a chuckle out of it! Jonathan Knight Grinnell Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 11:41:27 CDT From: lencell at unmc.edu (Lance Encell) Subject: Beer in Telluride? Anybody know of brew-pubs or micros in the Telluride, CO area or neighboring towns? Thanks, -Lance Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 12:02:21 EDT From: cjh at diaspar.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Chip Hitchcock) Subject: re malt v dextrose rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com says > . Theoretically, the malt primed beer will have better flavor stability as oxygen has been scavenged from the bottle during the bottle fermentation. Has anyone tested this? Miller suggests leaving very little headspace, and not capping for a short while after filling, on the grounds that enough CO2 will evolve to flush out the oxygen; I don't know anyone who's measured this. One method \not/ recommended for homebrewers due to messiness: at Old Dominion, the owner told us his bottling machine squirts a tiny bit of hot water into each filled bottle to make the beer foam, thus replacing O2 with CO2. (The machine fills from the bottom and is not very high-speed; I don't know whether high-speed machines produce enough foam just in handling the beer.) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 12:23:10 EDT From: cecil at udc.com (Cecil Clontz) Subject: Have Brew Keg - What Now? Greetings Homebrewers, I am new to this mail list and to homebrewing. I am on my fourth batch of Brew. I recently aquired a 15 1/2 Gallon Brewery keg (The kind your local beverage shop sells beer in and keeps your $50.00 deposit til you return). This Keg uses a tap that pushes down and turns. I have several questions. 1) Where can I get a tap (other than rent one and dont return it ). 2) can I rig this keg to use CO2 and use it insted of bottling. 3) If I can use a regular tap, how do I get the beer carbonated since with oxygen pumped in it will go bad in a few days. I know someone out there has the scoop on these ignorant questions. Cecil Clontz Iguana Head Brewery cecil at udc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1993 09:24:00 PDT From: David Allison 225-5764 <ALLISON.DAVID at a1gw.gene.com> Subject: kegging/infection(?) question First time caller - long time listener After kegging my beer, which was malty/low bitterness/clear, it became sour and cloudy very quickly. Before kegging, I allowed the beer to condition in the secondary at 32 - 34 F for a couple of weeks and then racked to my cornelius (sp?) keg. While racking, I accidentally picked up some trub (approx. 10 - 20 mL) off of the bottom of the secondary. The corn. keg was purged with CO2 prior to racking by filling the keg with 12 ppm BTF iodophor and displacing it with low psi CO2. This prevents the beer from exposure with air. Anyway... After force carbonation with CO2, two days later the beer is bitter/sour/cloudy. I allowed it to set for a couple of weeks at 32-34 F, thinking that the stuff from the bottom of the secondary was the culprit and it needed to settle out. Well... That didn't work. Any ideas/comments that can help? Beer history: All grain - 5 gallons 8# 2-row Belgian malt 1# Belgian caravienna malt 1/2 # Belgian Special B malt Saaz/Hallertau hops Wyeast German Ale Yeast (w/ starter) American Double Mash (90 F -> 122 F -> 152 F) 3.25 gal mash water in 10 gal SS pot 3.25 gal sparge water (170 F) - grain bag/bucket w/spigot method Immersion wort chiller Glass primary and secondary - 5 day primary at 65 F (blew out air-lock due to high activity of this yeast as discussed in previous thread) - 10 day secondary at 60 F - 2-week condition at 32 - 34 F - racking as stated above Thoughts? Thanks - David (allison2 at gene.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1993 12:42:28 -0600 From: Paul Boor <PBOOR at beach.utmb.edu> Subject: Easy Masher In response to the recent posting by NPyle who seems in search of streamlining methods (rather than complicating them), I submit my EASY MASHER METHODOLOGY with which I have brewed upward of 50+ brews, many of them great. This methods owes its seemingly bizarre beginnings to the 20 year old book by C.J.J. Berry, a paperback that is still found in some homebrew stores. The method also harkens back to postings of several months ago concerning overnight mashing: 1) Friday night (near midnight): grind up your grain bill. 2) Heat lots of water to 180F; make up a THICK mash in your masher/spargatron of choice. 3) Stick in your preset AQUARIUM HEATER, put on the top, plug in the heater. 4) Sack out with your significant other, if available. 5) Wake up early and stir one kettle-full of near-boiling water into the masher/spargatron, bringing temp up toward 170F. 6) Sparge it out with 170F water. If you insist on taking lots of temps and otherwise wasting precious time, you will get a strike of about 155F on Friday night. The masher/spargatron should be of the insulated variety so frequently discussed on the HBD. Indeee, in the years before the great GOTT gave us coolers, I used "wastebin" wrapped up in blankets a la C.J.J.Berry's original description. With today's standard insulated deal, even without tinkering with an aquarium heater, your AM strike will be in the 125-135 range; the heater keeps it higher. It is true: "all-graining doesn't have to be that tough!" This method is especially well suited to use with English (well-modified) malts and heavier beers. Any other easy-mashers out there??? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 12:30:44 EDT From: Lee=A.=Menegoni at nectech.com Subject: cloning Samuel Smith beers An important part of getting the Samuel Smith taste is by producing elevated levels of diacetyl in your fermentation process. Diacetyl production by the yeast occurs early in the fermentation proccess and is directly related to temperature. Diacetyl reduction by the yeast occurs later. I accidently brewed a SSPA clone from a standard Pale Ale recipe by: Pitching my starter into wort that was about 10F warmer than fermentation temp. This produced the elevated levels of diacetyl. Racking to secondary immediately after primary fermetation ceased and then adding finings to percipitate the yeast out prematurely. This reduces the yeast population at the point at which diacetyl gets reduced The high level produced early coupled with the small yeast population available for reduction will result in a beer with noticable levels of diacetyl. Notes: I pitch a starter that I step up for about a week, it has about 3/8" of slurry on the bottom of a 1.5l wine bottle. I suspect this large yeast population coupled with the warm temp directly effects the amount of diacety produced. If your starter was smaller the wort would cool while its population expands and the level of diacetyl would be less. I have also heard that excessive diacetyl is produced in under airated worts does any one have information on this? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 13:11:49 EDT From: lyons%adc1 at swlvx2.msd.ray.com Subject: Can the liquid loss in a blow off setup be minimized? In HBD #1231 Eugene gives the following schematic for a blow-off setup. _________ //-------\\ _||||_ || / || \ || /________\ || | | || | | || | BREW | /||\ | | |-||-| | | |H2O | |________| |____| I used such a system recently for a OG 1054 dry stout and lost one gallon of brew during the blow-off period. The fermentation was carried out at 68F using the new Red Star Ale yeast. The tubing I'm using between the two containers is the standard 3/8" (ID) siphon tubing. Does anyone experienced with this technique have any tricks for minimizing the amount of fluid loss? Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 1993 14:54:54 -0500 (CDT) From: One Lain Meyer <meyer at uxa.cso.uiuc.edu> Subject: fermentation substrate and flavor... On a windy day i overheard: #Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1993 11:02:14 -0400 (EDT) #From: "Robert H. Reed" <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com> #Subject: Malt/Wort vs. Dextrose Bottle Priming # #In HBD #1229, p.shaw5 at genie.geis.com writes: # #> While I'm here and dyslurking, I have another question. Other than #> spiritual and philosophical blessings, are there any real, tangible #> advantages to priming with DME orusing a gyre to prime? I'm just an evil #> barbarian extract/dry yeast brewer at this stage in my experience and while #> lots of the stuff I make is quite decent, the flavors are always strong and #> harsh, like a Ben & Jerry's beer. # #Theory tells us that due to the differences in the way that yeast ferments #malt and corn sugar, that there will be differences in the beer according #to the priming technique you choose: a beer primed with DME or wort will #go through both respiration and fermentation phases of yeast #metabolism. During yeast respiration, the yeast consume oxygen on their #journey to reproduction. The corn sugar primed beer will bypass the #respiration phase via the crabtree effect. Theoretically, the malt #primed beer will have better flavor stability as oxygen has been #scavenged from the bottle during the bottle fermentation. # *********************************************************************** **** Rob Reed Internet: rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com **** **** IC Design Center Delco Electronics Corporation **** *********************************************************************** If there is oxygen available, then the yeast will continue from glycolysis thru TCA and ETC, regardless of what substrate you use. (DME or corn sugar) When the oxygen is depleated then they will reduce the pyruvate from glycolysis into ethanol and CO2 via Acetaldehyde. -OLM Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Sep 93 15:45:00 CST From: "DEV::SJK" <SJK%DEV.decnet at mdcgwy.mdc.com> Subject: RE: Mailing Brew Hi: I just joined the club and thought I'd make my debut with my $0.02 on Rich Ryan's question 'bout sending beer through the mail. I regularly exchange homebrew with a buddy who has lived in Florida, Oregon, and Nevada. The very first time I tried to send him brew, I very cleverly told the lady behind the counter what was in the package (they will not ask you, you have to give yourself away). She promptly pushed the package back at me and said that sending liquids in bottles via the US Mail is not something I wanted to get caught doing. So I went to another post office. I guess this means that the US Postal Service doesn't want us using them to send beer. However, I always do. I ALWAYS send beers First Class. It costs a lot (about $1/lb.) but the packages I sent from Long Beach, CA to Corvallis, OR got there in two or three days. For me, this short time for delivery is worth the extra cost. I like the idea that if my beer is sitting somewhere that is beer-hostile, it won't be there for long. Zymurgy had an article not too long ago (issue?) specifically about packaging beer for sending to contests. I remember that it specifically did NOT say whether or not it is legal to send beer via UPS, US Mail, etc. The article was written by someone who has done a lot of UNpacking beer for contests and he recommended that you not get carried away with packaging. Basically, his reason for this was that over-packaged bottles were a hassle for him to deal with. If you're going to send via US Mail, I would recommend the opposite. I don't know the legal ramifications of getting beer on other people's mail and I don't want to know (at least not from a postal inspector knocking on my door). I use lots of newspaper for insulation from temp extremes, cushioning, and absorbtion (though I haven't lost one yet), and two layers of plastic for "head retention". Of course, packaging == money, but I want my beer there quickly, quietly, and safely. I called UPS ((800) 222-8333) and they said that they do NOT handle beer. The person I spoke to acted as if she had heard this question many times (she laughed) but said that they do handle wine "in some states". This whole thing may be trickier than I thought. Is it illegal to send alcohol across state lines, period? Is the AHA in big trouble for encouraging this sort of behaviour? Somebody MUST do this. How does Anchor send out their Xmas Ale? Or do they only ship within California? Hmm... I do have some experiences with UPS which I think are worth sharing. First, this very friend with which I exchange beer once worked for UPS unloading trucks. According to him, UPS would prefer to suffer some breakage and compensate the customer rather than slow things down (I realize this is hearsay and other's experiences may be different). In support of this, my friend and I have exchanged only one package via UPS and it was the only time bottles arrived broken. Also, it took MUCH longer for the package to arrive (about 7 days instead of the 3 days which seems to be typical for 1st Class). I realize this is condemnation on slim evidence and the main reason I don't use UPS is the time for delivery, though I can't say for sure that spoilage has been a problem. Perhaps they offer a speedier but cheaper service similar to 1st Class. Hopes this helps. I guess Rich's question still stands. Anyone know the legal way? Scott Kaczorowski sjk%c17fcs.decnet at mdcgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: 22 Sep 93 16:41:06 CST From: "Dennis Lewis" <DLEWIS%jscdh6 at jesnic.jsc.nasa.gov> Subject: Zymurgy and Tix to GABF I just got the latest Zymurgy last night (I'm reserving comment until it gets further inspection.) and a card fell out inviting me to a *special* AHA-members only beer tasting on October 9 from 2-5pm. You'll need a valid ID, a GABF ticket stub, and this postcard (no mention of *needing* an AHA membership card or anything like that). Anyway, I'm not going to the GABF, but I'd hate for someone to miss out on such an *exclusive* event because of some silly regulation like membership in the AHA. So, I'll mail this invitation to the first person (presumably, a non-AHA member) who e-mails me with their address. The early bird gets wormed, Dennis Lewis <dlewis%jscdh6 at jesnic.jsc.nasa.gov> Homebrew, The Final Frontier. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 08:21:00 -0600 From: chuck.wettergreen at aquila.com (Chuck Wettergreen) Subject: soldering keg fittings In HBD 1231, Wayde Nie <u9106857 at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> asked about Silver Solder on wort boilers WN> What is the collective net wisdom on using silver solder to > install the fittings into to base of a converted keg style > boiler. I would think that soldering would be less of an > undertaking than paying someone to weld SS. First, I'm not sure that you could get it to effectively bond to the stainless. Second, if you did get it to stick, you'd run the risk of having the solder melt from the heat you're applying to the wort. Third, solder is composed (I believe) of tin, lead, and antimony. I don't think I'd want to take the chance of exposing my acidic wort to that particular composition and risk some of it disolving in my wort. The welding shouldn't cost you more that $20 if you find the stainless pipe nipple for the welder and pre-drill the hole. You might also check out the brass fittings at a good hardware store. I'm sure you can find some sort of compression fitting that will do the trick. Better yet, offer to trade homebrew for welding. That's what I did. Chuck * RM 1.2 00946 * Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 08:21:00 -0600 From: chuck.wettergreen at aquila.com (Chuck Wettergreen) Subject: wierd yeast activity All, I'm making an all-grain pale ale using Yeast Labs American Ale yeast (Hey, it's all I had available at the time!). I have never seen a yeast act this peculiar. I made a starter 9/9. The yeast was relatively fresh; the good until date was the end of October. The yeast took 36 hours to start working, and then it was very subdued. Once added to the wort (at 70 deg. F) it took 24 hours to give any evidence of working. After noticing reduced ferm. lock activity after three days, I racked to secondary. The yeast acts like it is still in primary fermentation phase. It still is producing a "cap" of sticky bubbles after about 9 days in the secondary (at 68 deg.). If I slightly agitate the carboy the bubbles collapse into large floculante (?) (large pieces of yeast- beastie stuff that falls to the bottom of the carboy), and then the bubbles immediately re-form into a cap. Fermentation lock activity is now at about the once every 30 seconds stage, but the bubbles persist. I have never seen anything like this before. Has anyone used this yeast stain before or experienced this? Chuck * RM 1.2 00946 * Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 22:11:52 GMT From: sbsgrad%sdph.span at Sdsc.Edu Subject: St. Pat's of Texas From: Steve Slade <sslade at ucsd.edu> Date sent: 22-SEP-1993 15:10:39 PT Could some kind soul please send me, by private email, the phone # for St. Pat's of Texas? Seems I lost it in the last disc purge/backup. Thanks, Steve Slade reply to: sbsgrad%sdph.span at sdsc.edu or sslade at ucsd.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 17:54:49 -0600 From: Kelly Jones <k-jones at ee.utah.edu> Subject: Brazing vs Silver-soldering vs TIG welding Someone asked about silver-soldering vs welding nipples onto kegs... Be very cautious of silver solders, as most of them are about 96% tin. As others have pointed out here, tin is not compatible with hot wort. A third option is to braze the nipple. Brazing is similar to soldering, except that higher temperatures and different alloys are used. Because of the higher temps involved, a simple propane torch will not suffice. However, I just finished brazing my nipple, (this is beginning to sound like S&M) using a combination propane/oxygen torch. This heats the SS up to bright cherry red, hot enough to braze. I believe a MAPP gas torch will also work, I think a MAPP cylinder can simply be used in place of propane on a standard propane torch for a hotter flame. The brazing rod I used was called Copper-Phosphorous. I checked the MSDS for these and there didn't seem to be anything in it that would be bad for me or my beer (note there is _no_ cadmium or other heavy metals in these rods). All of this equipment/materials can be purchased at any good hardware store/home center, for much less than the cost of a MIG or TIG setup. Kelly Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 17:13:51 PDT From: MURRAYT at WSUVM1.CSC.WSU.EDU Subject: Barley diseases In the HBD on 14 Sep 93, korz at iepubj.att.com wrote the about production of various malting barley varieties in the U.S. I have heard from two different sources now that most of the malting barley in the midwest and upper great plains (Minnesota, North & South Dakota) has been damaged/destroyed this year due to scab. Scab, or head blight, is caused by a fungus that produces several mycotoxins, among them vomitoxin, which prevents the sale of contaminated grain. One book I read says that "beer made with scabby barley takes on a 'gushy' or excessive foaming characteristic. However, because of strict grading standards, scabby barley is not used by the brewing industry today." As little as 3% scabby barley can be toxic to hogs, but other livestock do not react the same. If I remember correctly, some of the mycotoxins produced by this fungus have been implicated as potential carcinogens too. The excessive rain this spring and summer in the region is to blame for the above-normal amounts of scab. This means that malters will likely be buying grain from other areas of the country, like Washington, which do not normally produce large amounts of malting barley. I have not heard whether this is expected to affect price and/or supply. Tim Murray Dept. of Plant Pathology Washington State University MURRAYT at WSUVM1.CSC.WSU.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 93 22:57:18 -0400 From: Marty Hicks <martyh at kitchen.mcad.edu> Subject: Interactive CD-ROM Are there any home brewers out there interested in an interactive CD-ROM with beautiful graphics and animation that describes the history, process and products of brewing? A group of people including myself has begun thinking seriously about such a project and has started producing prototypes. How much money would such a CD be worth to you? Would it be more attractive with a sponsor? We would appreciate your input. Marty - ----------------------------------------------- Jon Martin Hicks martyh at mcad.edu - ----------------------------------------------- CERRELUS Virtual Worlds, Intermedia 2223 Stewart Avenue Saint Paul, MN 55116 - ----------------------------------------------- Phone: (612) 699-0083 Fax: (612) 699-0083 - ----------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1232, 09/23/93