HOMEBREW Digest #1233 Fri 24 September 1993

Digest #1232 Digest #1234

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Re: Barley diseases (wegeng.XKeys)
  re: Barley Disease (Todd Enders - WD0BCI)
  MASH TUN = LAUTER TUN (Jack Schmidling)
  Columbus OH pubs (Jim Grady)
  Bittering Hops (Brian R Seay )
  A few questions. ("Walker John")
  Soldering/brazing, etc. ("PAUL EDWARDS")
  Keg Forced Carbonation Confusion (John McCaffrey)
  campden/cranberries/oatmeal stout (Jonathan G Knight)
  silver solder (Phil Duclos)
  Fuller's water treatment (Domenick Venezia)
  Lambic Cultures (Steve Jacobs)
  Subscription Request (Randy Arndt)
  Re: Sam Smith Hops (Paul Jasper)
  Minimizing Blow-off Loss ("Anderso_A")
  Usage of Silver Solder Alloys ("Palmer.John")
  Keg system setup (Wayde Nie)
  Speaking In Tongues (Michael Ligas)
  Temperature Adjustments (Michael L. Hall)
  Florida Homebrewer's Weekend (BIO)" <tillman at chuma.cas.usf.edu>
  Hops sale discovered (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Re: Mailing Beer/ UPS ("Pamela J. Day 7560")
  Silver Solder on wort boilers (Dion Hollenbeck)
  POC (Bob_McIlvaine)
  Vigorous fermantation  (Philip J Difalco)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 06:05:05 PDT From: wegeng.XKeys at xerox.com Subject: Re: Barley diseases In HBD #1232, Tim Murray writes: >I have heard from two different >sources now that most of the malting barley in the midwest and upper great >plains (Minnesota, North & South Dakota) has been damaged/destroyed this year >due to scab. [...] I have not heard whether this >is expected to affect price and/or supply. I have not heard about this problem, but I do recall hearing that there is currently about a one year surplus supply of barley in storage in the US. If this is true, then the scab problem may not have much affect on the price of barley. /Don wegeng.xkeys at xerox.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 08:35:35 -0500 From: Todd Enders - WD0BCI <enders at plains.NoDak.edu> Subject: re: Barley Disease In HBD #1232, MURRAYT at WSUVM1.CSC.WSU.EDU writes: > >In the HBD on 14 Sep 93, korz at iepubj.att.com wrote the about production of >various malting barley varieties in the U.S. I have heard from two different >sources now that most of the malting barley in the midwest and upper great >plains (Minnesota, North & South Dakota) has been damaged/destroyed this year >due to scab. I wouldn't go so far as to say most. Local Ag. reporters have said the damage runs in the neighborhood of 30% recently. More worrisome is the fact that harvest is running *very* late around here due to excessive moisture. The longer drydown times have left the remainder of the unharvested small grain crops at risk for diseases, but I haven't heard of large losses due to this, yet. Malting and feed barley aren't the only things effected. The wheat crop is also suffering from scab. This has put some of the export customers ill at ease about purchasing wheat (cf. China). > > [...] > >The excessive rain this spring and summer in the region is to blame for >the above-normal amounts of scab. This means that malters will likely be >buying grain from other areas of the country, like Washington, which do not >normally produce large amounts of malting barley. I have not heard whether >this is expected to affect price and/or supply. > In the upper Great Plains, the predominant varieties of malting barley are of the 6-row type (Morex, Larker, Robust), employed primarily by the big industrial brewers (AB, Miller, Stroh). In fact, *very* little 2-row is grown around here (< 5% of total), with most of the 2-row production coming from the Northwest. If indeed maltsters are buying from other areas, 6-row malt may be in short supply. This hasn't manifested itself in higher prices for malting barley (at least not around here). The homebrewing market probably has little to worry about. However, I suspect the mega breweries are at least somewhat nervous. =============================================================================== Todd Enders - WD0BCI ARPA: enders at plains.nodak.edu Computer Center UUCP: ...!uunet!plains!enders Minot State University or: ...!hplabs!hp-lsd!plains!enders Minot, ND 58701 Bitnet: enders at plains =============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 08:41 CDT From: arf at genesis.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: MASH TUN = LAUTER TUN >From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com> >Subject: Tuns/Sparging >First of all , Jack, mash tun != lauter tun, at least for most serious brewers who are using any system other than single infusion or your EasyWidgets. The objective of a mash tun is to convert starches to fermentable sugars and dextrins. The objective of a lauter tun is extract these fermentable sugars and dextrins without extracting tannins from the malt husks. Not sure of your symbolism but if "!=" means not equal, the advent of "EasyWidgets" suggests it is time to change the definition. With an easymasher (note lower case) installed, the mash tun becomes the lauter tun simply by opening the spigot. > I have brewed all grain batches in 4 different systems over the past 5 years, and no matter what the size of the lauter tun, the recirc time is in the order of 10-15 minutes. Is it possible that none of those four different systems was an easymasher? It takes less than a minute with the em. Furthermore, I do not see what time has to do with the issue. It is the volume that must be recycled that effects the characteristics that were brought up. If a cup or two has to be poured back into the tun, it would have little effect on anything and would not even qualify for calling it "recirculating". If 5 gallons have to be recirculated, it is a different ball game. I hate to always sound like I am trying to sell something when this subject comes up but the fact is, the easymasher has revolutionised home brewing as anyone who has ever used one will testify to. Few of the age old problems and concerns apply to it. Someone asked what an easymasher is and I waited a discreet amount of time hoping someone else would respond but as no one did, here is a brief description. Please note that this device can be easily made from hardware store stuff and whether you make one or buy one makes little difference to me. That is the reason for the lower case/upper case business. The following is taken from my article on kettle mashing and anyone wishing the whole article can receive same via email. BRASS SPIGOT FEMALE | CONNECTOR | | ________ | | \_____ \ | | | | | ____ ________|_|___****____|_____ COPPER TUBING / _______X____ ____ ____ \ / / / ****____| \ \ / SS SCREEN /_/ | \ \ | | \ \----################## | \-----################## -----BOTTOM------------------------------ FIG. 1 Fig. 1 shows an exploded view of the spigot and strainer. The strainer is simply a 2 x 6 inch piece of screen, rolled into a six inch tube and clamped to the copper tube. The last half inch is bent over itself to seal it off. The copper tube has a double bend in it to allow it to be rotated so that the end is right on the bottom leaving almost no wort behind. It is easily removed for cleaning. The spigot passes through a clearance hole drilled in the kettle and is retained by the female connector and a washer to take up the treads and make a tight fit. .............. >From: franc!kstiles at woomera.att.com >Subject: 1993 Hop Harvest Dried weight (oz) Variety 1992 1993 ======== ======== ======== Chinook 10 1/2 5 1/2 The only hops I had in last year were Chinook but the yield on two vines went from less than one dried ounce to about six this year. I used 50 grams in the last 10 gallon batch and the bittering seems about what I expect from a similar weight of commercial pellets. js  Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 10:00:26 EDT From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: Columbus OH pubs It looks like I will be in Columbus OH next week. I would appreciate any recommendations for pubs/brewpubs. I saw these in the publist, any comments? Ohio -- Columbus: Columbus Brewing Co. Microbrewery Growlers Brewpub - 1380 Bethel Rd; 43220 (614)451-0108 Brewpub which is now closed Hoster Brewing Co Brewpub e-mail responses please. Thanks in advance. - -- Jim Grady |"Root beer burps don't have to be said 'Excuse me'." grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com | Robert Grady, age 4.75 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 09:38:02 -0500 From: Brian R Seay </G=Brian/I=R/S=Seay/O=MAC/PRMD=ALCATEL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/ at alcatel.aud.alcatel.com> Subject: Bittering Hops Subject: Time:8:28 AM OFFICE MEMO Bittering Hops Date:9/23/93 In the spirit of "There are no stupid questions": All of the hop oils in the lupulin glands of boiling hops are boiled away during a 60 minute boil. The hop oils are the source of hop flavor and aroma, so there should be no hop flavor or aroma contributed by the boiling hops. Therefore, one ounce of Northern Brewer at 10% alpha could be substituted for two ounces of Willamette at 5% alpha. The same bitterness would be achieved and there would be no perceptable difference in taste. Right? Probably not. Where is the flaw in my thinking? A little knowledge is a dangerous thing. -Brian Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Sep 1993 10:44:02 U From: "Walker John" <jwalker at msmac.prc.hq.nasa.gov> Subject: A few questions. 1. Does anyone know of an outlet on the east coast for Upper Canada beers? 2. Are there any vendors selling 7 oz. brown bottles. 3. Are there any publications of old recipes of American beers? There are a few great books for English beers, but I have not seen one for the US. Also, if anyone has old recipes, either from family or professional brewers, I would love to see them. John Walker jwalker at prc.hq.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Sep 93 07:00:00 EST From: "PAUL EDWARDS" <8260PE at indy.navy.mil> Subject: Soldering/brazing, etc. To add my couple of pence worth to the soldering discussion: Those who suggest that brazing is the way to go are on the right track. Soldering is a much lower temperature process and doesn't provide nearly the strength that brazing does. I've successfully brazed fittings on SS pots using "Safety-Silv 1200" rod. The manufacturer, J. W. Harris, says its suitable for food processing equipment. The exact metallurgic composition escapes me, but the major components are silver and copper, with a small amount of zinc and a tiny bit of tin. I've never experienced haze problems or metallic off-flavors in beers brewed in the pots with this braze. Flux is boric acid, I believe, and comes off with hot water and scrubbing with a wire brush. I've used Safety-Silv 1200 to braze numerous bicycle frames, without a joint failure, so it provides a fairly strong joint. I use either Mapp gas with a Turbo head or one of those propane/oxygen setups from the h/w store. As you probably can guess the brazing rod melts in the 1200 deg F range. I've read that prolonged heating of SS above 1200-1400 degrees can cause it to become brittle, so be careful. I'd suggest practicing on the portion of the keg you've cut off. Whatever brazing rod you choose, make sure it has no lead and *** NO CADMIUM ***. Cadmium fumes will kill quicker than you can say "Rheinheitsgebot". One last thing, I wouldn't trust a brazed joint to be "sanitary" in the same sense that professionally welded and ground would be, so I wouldn't use this method on fermenters and the like. Just on Hot liquor tanks, mash-tuns and boilers. One final thing, Silver braze flows like water when it reaches liquidus, and won't fill gaps of more than .001 or so, in my experience. Make sure you have a good tight joint before lighting up that torch... -- Paul Edwards Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 8:55:28 PDT From: John McCaffrey <johnmc at brooktree.com> Subject: Keg Forced Carbonation Confusion Boy, am I confused. I setup my kegging system about a week and a half ago and had problems getting enough carbonation/head. I used the method outlined in Cliff Tanner's Braukunst catalog and after 3 days, my beer seemed to be carbonated OK but had little or no head. Since then, I have researched this further and found that there is no consistency whatsoever regarding the temperatures and pressures needed for both force carbonating and dispensing. Can anyone shed some light on this? Here are the various methods I've uncovered..... Braukunst Method: Chill beer to your liking (40 degrees), determine how carbonated you want it (2.25 atmospheres for ales, 2.75 atm for lagers), look up your beer temp and carbonation (in atm) on the big chart and determine the saturation pressure needed to carbonate (my Red Ale came out to 9.5 psi at 40 degrees), pressurize to that pressure and let sit for 2-3 days, dispense at 2-3 psi GREATER than the carbonating pressure. Charlie P. Method (from TNCJOHB): Chill beer (40 degrees), pressurize to 25-30 psi, let sit for two days (or shake vigorously for 5-10 min), then dispense at 5 psi. Williams Brewing Supply method (from mail order catalog): Chill beer (no temp specified), pressurize (no pressure specified) and wait FIVE days, no dispense pressure specified Bob Clark's Method (from HBD Archives 6/7/93): Chill beer (no temp specified), pressurize to 30 psi, wait 3-4 days. Then dispense at 8-10 psi. Mark Parshall's method (from HBD Archives 6/3/93): Chill beer (40 degrees), pressurize to 25-30 psi, let sit for 3-5 days, lower regulator to 10 psi to dispense (he says this generates too much head). Mark Parshall's friend's method (from HBD Archives 6/3/93): Chill beer (40 degrees), pressurize to 40-50 psi, shake vigorously for 15 minutes, no dispense pressure specified. HELP! What's a kegger to do? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 10:57:55 -0500 (cdt) From: Jonathan G Knight <KNIGHTJ at AC.GRIN.EDU> Subject: campden/cranberries/oatmeal stout I'm a couple of days behind in my digest reading. I suppose you could say that I am suffering from indigestion. Anyway, in #1231 Aaaron Morris recommends Campden tablets in the blowoff bucket. What does the campden do? I've never heard of this. In this same issue, Robert Kaye asks about cranberry ale. I have a recipe at home which I haven't tried yet, but it was posted to the HBD a year or so ago I think. The author recommended putting frozen cranberries in the pot at the end of the boil - incidentally, helping the cooling along - and letting them sit for awhile, then racking the wort off the berries and break material. Anyone else tried this? And finally, Jim Graham asks about Oatmeal Stout. Jim, if you are an extract brewer, try William's Oatmeal Dark extract. I used it once and was real pleased with it. If you're not an extract brewer, well, then you certainly don't want MY advice! I usually follow Al K.'s advice and just do single stage for ales, especially dark ones, unless I am dry-hopping. Jonathan Knight Grinnell, Iowa Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 10:08:51 MDT From: pjd at craycos.com (Phil Duclos) Subject: silver solder Let's get one thing straight, silver solder is not your typical plumbing or electrical solder. It does not contain lead, although it may contain other undesirable metals, and it melts at ~1100 F. It does not contain tin either. It is used for refrigeration, precious metals, etc... where strength is required. It comes in many melting points and mixtures and is more like brazing than soldering. It requires significant heat, and on stainless, that means an oxy/acetylene torch. Joints are strong, but tend to be brittle and because of that it may be unsuitable for the roughhouse brewery environment. It does not meet sanitation requirement per typical health codes. The technique is difficult to get right so its not for a beginner to welding. All that said, it is cheaper than TIG and may be a good choice for someone properly equipped and trained. A nice TIG job on a brew kettle should only cost $10->20 so, its not unreasonable to have a really nice job. Trading for beer might be possible too. I plan to add a sight tube and thermometer to my hot liquor tank and I expect to pay almost as much for the fittings as the welding job. Its not all that cheap, but it sure looks nice! phil duclos Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 09:55:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: Fuller's water treatment A while ago I sent out some requests to a few English Ale Brewers, most notably Fuller Smith & Turner P.L.C., for information about their water treatments. Hey, it was worth a shot. Fuller's Brewing Director, R.H. Drury, responded thusly: "I am not able to tell you the mineral content of our Brewing water for commercial reasons. Suffice to say it is not the typical London analysis which is too high in carbonates and is therefore "burtonised" to some extent." In light of the most recent issue of Brewing Techniques and Karl King's article on water treatment which shows that "burtonized" water is much higher in carbonates than London water: Ca CO3 SO4 Mg Na Cl ------------------------------------------ Burton 275 260 450 40 25 35 London 90 125 40 5 15 20 What is Mr. Drury talking about? Does he mean that Fuller's water is "...therefore "burtonised" to some extent" or does he mean London water? It may be important to note that Fuller's Brewery is in London, and perhaps he is switching names (Burton <==> London). On the other hand, in Fuller's Cask Conditioned ESB I detect a front of the tongue and behind the teeth sharpness, a tang, almost a mild "furriness". High sulfate? Am I making too much of water treatment? Since I mentioned the most recent issue of Brewing Techniques, I'd just like to say that I'm very impressed with the publication. I actually found 3 out of 4 of the features and articles of compelling and immediate interest (at this time I'm not charged up about rye), even so I found the rye article well written and full of good information. (This contrasts greatly with articles about labels). I am particularly looking forward to the next issue's "Practical Guidelines for Cask Conditioning Domenick Venezia ZymoGenetics, Inc. venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 13:18:10 EDT From: steve at garnet.spawar.navy.mil (Steve Jacobs) Subject: Lambic Cultures I'm interested in brewing some p-Lambics, can anyone point me to a source (preferably non-commercial) of the following cultures: brettanomyces lambicus brettanomyces bruxellensis pediococcus damnosus Thanks, Steve Jacobs Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 13:44:59 -0400 From: arndtr at acs.bu.edu (Randy Arndt) Subject: Subscription Request New subscription to arndtr at acs.bu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 10:43:53 -0700 From: paul at rational.com (Paul Jasper) Subject: Re: Sam Smith Hops On 22 Sep, 7:56, Michael Inglis wrote: > Subject: Sam Smith Hops > > Question: Does anyone know what hop variety is used in Samual Smiths > Pale Ale for flavor/aroma? I think it may be the same as is used in > Beck's. Saaz perhaps? Email is fine for answers. Thanks. > >-- End of excerpt from Michael Inglis "The European Beer Almanac" by Roger Protz lists the ingredients for Samuel Smith's Old Brewery Pale Ale as "Pale ale and crystal malts. Fuggles and Goldings hops. 30 units of bitterness. Top fermenting yeast." ABV 5%; degrees Plato 12; OG 1048. It is fermented in Yorkshire stone squares. - -- - -- Paul Jasper - -- RATIONAL - -- Object-Oriented Products - -- Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Sep 93 13:39:00 EST From: "Anderso_A" <Anderso_A at hq.navsea.navy.mil> Subject: Minimizing Blow-off Loss The following attachments were included with this message: __________________________________________________________________ TYPE : FILE NAME : BLOW_OFF __________________________________________________________________ >In HBD #1231 Eugene gives the following schematic for a blow-off >setup. _________ //-------\\ _||||_ || / || \ || /________\ || | | || | | || | BREW | /||\ | | |-||-| | | |H2O | |________| |____| >I used such a system recently for a OG 1054 dry stout and lost one >gallon of brew during the blow-off period. The fermentation was >carried out at 68F using the new Red Star Ale yeast. The tubing I'm >using between the two containers is the standard 3/8" (ID) siphon tubing. >Does anyone experienced with this technique have any tricks for >minimizing the amount of fluid loss? >Chris Sure, switch to a 1" ID plastic hose and move the bucket of water to a height about 2 feet above the top of the carboy. Most of the beer kicked out during the blow-off period can't make it out and falls back into the carboy. I use this system for any beer with an OG of at least 1.050. Lower strength beers tend not to kick out as much fluid. Cheers, Andy A Return to table of contents
Date: 23 Sep 1993 11:39:04 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer#d#john at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Usage of Silver Solder Alloys Hey Group, I noticed the post on using Silver based Brazing (soldering) alloys. This is a good alternative to welding of fittings. In addition, it allows the use of copper tubing and fittings into the stainless steel tanks. There is the potential for some galvanic corrosion of the copper in preference to the silver. While I cannot predict the rate, I think it will be quite small; small cathode, big anode, etc. Be sure to use a flux for Stainless Steel before attempting to braze or it won't stick. Use a slightly reducing flame and type 3A flux. Silver Solder does not contain lead, but some of the alloys contain Cadmium, which is worse. I don't know if it will leach out, but if it does, it will cause heavy metal poisening. The American Welding Society alloy designations are listed below, don't use the alloys containing Cadmium. Here's the table. Table of Silver-based brazing (soldering) alloys AWS Composition(a), % spec. Ag Cu Zn Others BAg-l 44.0-46.0 14.0-16.0 14.0-18.0 23.0-25.0 Cd BAg-la 49.0-51.0 14.5-16.5 14.5-18.5 17.0-19.0 Cd BAg-2 34.0-36.0 25.0-27.0 19.0-23.0 17.0-19.0 Cd BAg-2a 29.0-31.0 26.0-28.0 21.0-25.0 19.0-21.0 Cd BAg-3 49.0-51.0 14.5-16.5 13.5-17.5 16 Cd, 3 Ni BAg-4 39.0-41.0 29.0-31.0 26.0-30.0 1.5-2.5 Ni BAg-5 44.0-46.0 29.0-31.0 23.0-27.0 ... BAg-6 49.0-51.0 33.0-35.0 14.0-18.0 ... BAg-7 55.0-57.0 21.0-23.0 15.0-19.0 4.5-5.5 Sn BAg-8 71.0-73.0 Rem ... ... BAg-8a 71.0-73.0 Rem ... 0.25-0.50 Li BAg-13 53.0-55.0 Rem 4.0-6.0 0.5-1.5 Ni BAg-13a 55.0-57.0 Rem ... 1.5-2.5 Ni BAg-18 59.0-61.0 Rem ... 10 Sn, .025 max P BAg-l9 92.0-93.0 Rem ... 0.15-0.30 Li BAg-20 29.0-31.0 37.0-39.0 30.0-34.0 ... BAg-21 62.0-64.0 27.5-29.5 ... 6 Sn, 2.5 Ni (a) Total maximum allowable impurities in each alloy is 0.15%. AWS Solidus Liquidus Brazing spec. temp. temp. temp. F C F C F C BAg-l 1125 607 1145 618 1145-1400 618-760 BAg-la 1160 627 1175 635 1175-1400 635-760 BAg-2 1125 607 1295 702 1295-1550 702-843 BAg-2a 1125 607 1310 710 1310-1550 710-843 BAg-3 1170 632 1270 688 1270-1500 688-816 BAg-4 1240 671 1435 779 1435-1650 779-899 BAg-5 1250 677 1370 743 1370-1550 743-843 BAg-6 1270 688 1425 774 1425-1600 774-871 BAg-7 1145 618 1205 652 1205-1400 652-760 BAg-8 1435 779 1435 779 1435-1650 779-899 BAg-8a 1410 766 1410 766 1410-1600 766-871 BAg-13 1325 718 1575 857 1575-1775 857-968 BAg-13a 1420 771 1640 893 1600-1800 871-982 BAg-18 1115 602 1325 718 1325-1550 718-843 BAg-l9 1435 779 1635 891 1610-1800 877-982 BAg-20 1250 677 1410 766 1410-1600 766-871 BAg-21 1275 691 1475 802 1475-1650 802-899 Notes: Ag is Silver, Cu is Copper, Zn is Zinc, Cd is Cadmium, Ni is Nickel, Sn is Tin, Li is Lithium, and P is Phosporus. Cadmium is toxic when it gets into the blood stream and causes heavy metal poisening, similar to lead, but worse. While I am not sure that it will leach out of the soldered joint like lead, it might, don't use those alloys. Solidus is the temperature when the alloy starts to melt upon heating, Liquidus is the temperature when it is completely melted. Or conversly, Liquidus is when it starts to solidify on cooling, Solidus is when it is completely solid. John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P Support Space Station! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 12:48:09 -0400 (EDT) From: Wayde Nie <u9106857 at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> Subject: Keg system setup In HBD 1232, Cecil Clontz Sez: <I recently aquired a 15 1/2 Gallon Brewery keg (The kind your local beverage <shop sells beer in and keeps your $50.00 deposit til you return). This Keg <uses a tap that pushes down and turns. I have several questions. My housemates and I have been using a CO2 charged, brewers retail style kegging system for almost a year now and don't know how we ever got along without it. This sounds, from your description, to be exactly what you want. We like this setup as opposed to the cornelius (SP?) one mainly because it can be used for homebrew and we can dispense commercial swill for our parties. This leaves our precious brew for us! First of all, for your homebrew, I'd find a more suitable sized keg. Here in Canada, Brewer's Retail offers a "cylinder" (22 liters) which is roughly 5 Gal for $20 deposit. We have found this size to be great for our single batches. Save your 15 1/2 Gal keg to make a good brew kettle. (As per any of the suggestions in the HBD archives) <1) Where can I get a tap (other than rent one and don't return it ). All of our equipment came from a co called Johnson Enterprises in Illinois. They were very helpful and supplied us with exactly what we needed to convert an old fridge. (I have no affiliation with Johnson, just a satisfied customer, BlahBlahBlahBlah....) for a basic fridge conversion you will need: i) A CO2 cylinder, ours is a 20lb tank and thats PLENTY. It has been on line for almost a year and is still quite full. ii) A CO2 regulator, IMHO a 2 gauge reg. is comforting and really only a few bucks more. (one gauge for tank presure (optional) the other is for line presure (a must)). iii) A "Sankey" coupler. (the twist and push down type) this is what connects to your keg. It has two threaded connectors, one for beer out :-) and the other for CO2 in. iv) Faucet assembly. This is the actual tap with all the necessary hardware for mounting. (fridge door, under the bar, beside your bed, etc...8*)) v) Proper pressure hoses and clamps to hook the whole thing together. Except for the CO2 tank and fridge, we got the entire setup UPS'ed across the border and to our front door in about a week for less than $200 Canadian. (Worth *EVERY* penny). <2) can I rig this keg to use CO2 and use it instead of bottling. Yep, we do this routinely! Inside the "beer out" hole of the sankey you'll find a small rubber "pea" with acts as a backflow valve. If you carefully poke this pea out (remember, it has to go back in later!) you can siphon your beer into the keg through this hole. The connectors on the Sankey seem to have odd threads (at least we can't seem to find a match locally). Therefore, we'd recommend buying an extra female beer line connector to hook your siphoning hose to the sankey. To carbonate, put the full keg under about 30 - 40 lbs of pressure from your CO2 tank and shake like mad (the keg, not you) for about 1-2 min. Repeat this in another couple of hours and let the keg sit over night under this presure. The next day, bleed off the excess keg pressure, reduce your CO2 reg. to about 10-15 lbs, and enjoy a *Sediment free* draught homebrew! (**This requires NO extra sugar at kegging time**) Don't be distressed if the first few draws are mostly foam, this is normal. If the foaming continues, play with the reg pressure. This is an outline of our process, others may have slightly different ones, but this works well for us. <3) If I can use a regular tap, how do I get the beer carbonated since with <oxygen pumped in it will go bad in a few days. This setup uses CO2 and a properly cared for keg will last for quite some time. (Can't give you solid dates, ours are alway gone within a couple weeks...(Hick!) Hope all this helps, if you want us to clarify anything then feel free to EMail us back directly. PS. here's there phone number. Johnson Enterprises, INC, Rockford, Illinios (800)435-6950 \\\ (o o) - ---------------------------------ooO--(*)--Ooo-------------------------------- \|||/ | Wayde Nie, u9106857 at McMail.CIS.McMaster.CA <o.O> bleah! | ( v ) snort! | "I stayed up all night playing poker with Tarot cards... --"-"-- | I got a full house and four people died!" *Bill The Owl* | Steven Wright - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 15:25:31 -0400 (EDT) From: Michael Ligas <ligas at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> Subject: Speaking In Tongues =========================================================================== The following list was compiled by schuyler at rest.tasc.com. I'm hoping that you folks will enjoy it and send me additions and/or corrections. It might be best if comments were mailed directly to me to avoid a potential avalanche of posts to the digest. I'll update the list and re-post it when replies have subsided. Take care. - ligas at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca =========================================================================== TRAVELLERS' VOCABULARY LIST Afrikaans: oke Albanian: birre" (e" = e-umlaut, pronounced approx. schwa) Arabic: bira (birra) Armenian: garejure (transliteration) Basque: garagarnoa Breton: bier Bulgarian: bira Burmese: biya (transliteration) Cantonese: be1jau2 (1 = high tone; 2 = high falling tone) Catalan: cervesa Croatian: pivo Czech: pivo Danish: o/l (o/ = fronted o sound, written o with slash) Dutch: bier English: beer Esperanto: biero Estonian: o~lu (o~ = o-tilde, pronounced short unrounded 'o') Finnish: olut, (slang: kalja; actually other beverage) Flemish: het bier French: la bie`re Frisian: bier German: das Bier Greek: mpi'ra (transliteration) ('mp' is pronounced 'b') Greenlandic: immiaarag Hausa: fita Hawaiian: pia or bia Hebrew: birah (bira) Hindi: biar (transliteration) Hokkien: bit3 djiu4 Hungarian: so~r (o~ = short-o-umlaut; s = "sh"-sound) Icelandic: bjo'r (o' = o-acute accent) Indonesian: bir Irish: beoir Italian: la birra Japanese: biiru/bieru (r is sort of between USA 'r' and Eng. 'l') Korean: maekju (transliteration) Latin: cervisia Latvian: alu Lithuanian: alus Luxemburgois: be'ier (e' = e-acute accent) Madagassian: labiera (yes, one word) Malay: bir Maltese: birra Mandarin: pi2jiu3 (2 = rising tone; 3 = fall/rise tone) Nepali: biyar (transliteration) (from phrase book) Nepali: chang (from person who's been there) Norwegian: o/l (o/ = fronted o, written o with slash) Papiamentu: serbes Persian: ab-e-jow (a = slightly rounded; j = as in 'juice') Pidgin (Papua): bia Polish: piwo ('w' is pronounced 'v') Portuguese: a cerveja Quechua: sirwisa Raeto-romanian: bi'era (i' = i-acute accent) Rumanian: bere Russian: pivo Samoan: pia Scots Gaelic: beo`ir (o` = o-grave accent) Serbian: pivo Singalese: bire (transliteration) Slovakian: pivo Slovenian: pivo Spanish: la cerveza, la birra (Central America) Swahili: pombe Swedish: o"l (o" = o with two dots ["med tva prickor"]) Tagalog: beer Tasmanian: beer Thai: bia Tibetan: chang (transliteration) Turkish: bira Ukrainian: pivo Welsh: cwrw ("w" is pronounced approx. as "u" in "put") Yiddish: bier (transliteration) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 13:30:53 MDT From: mlh at cygnus.ta52.lanl.gov (Michael L. Hall) Subject: Temperature Adjustments Kieran O'Connor asks about whether he should change his mashing temperature due to problems in measuring the temperature. I'm not quite sure which of the following questions he was asking, so I'll answer both. 1. "I checked the calibration of both my Thermometers ... my bi-metal probe type thermometer was off by 4 degrees F." For this case you do need to mash with the corrected temperature. For instance, if your thermometer reads 4 degrees high and you want to mash at 154 F, then you should make sure that your thermometer reads 158 F. In other words, you should correct the temperature from your thermometer to get the real temperature. 2. "I boiled it in distilled water and calibrated it. At the school I work in--in Cortland NY--we are at 1000 ft elevation, so my science teacher friend said to calibrate it to 98C for boiling -- given the altitude." I'm a little more familiar with this one, since I live at 7300 ft! If you're not boiling the water, then the temperature you want doesn't change. In other words, if you want to mash at 154 F, you heat the water until your corrected thermometer reading is 154 F, regardless of altitude. The difference with altitude comes in when you boil. Since you're boiling at a lower temperature, you might want to boil longer to get the same effect. Our boiling temperature is around 198 F, so there's quite a difference here. Hope this helps, Mike Hall, Thermohydraulic nut Los Alamos Atom Mashers Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 15:26:51 -0400 (EDT) From: "Tim Tillman (BIO)" <tillman at chuma.cas.usf.edu> Subject: Florida Homebrewer's Weekend Hello HBDers! I am trying to arrange a homerbrewer's get together in Florida. I invision an overnight camping (not mandatory) kind of event. There might be a seminar or two, beer tasting, introduction to brewing for beginners, venders. What else? If you are in Florida and are interested in helping in anyway please Email me. Tim Tillman tillman at chuma.cas.usf.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 07:55:59 PDT From: megatek!hollen at uunet.UU.NET (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Hops sale discovered Hi fellow brewers - I just placed an order for some hops and much to my surprise was informed that there was a sale on to move out this year's crop and make way for next year's. The details are as follows: Order from HopTech Email to mgaretz at hoptech.com. Only orders received over Email and mentioning the HBD discount qualify for a 25% discount on U.S. grown WHOLE hops only. I have no affiliation with HopTech other than being a satisfied customer. Dion Hollenbeck (619)455-5590x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Senior Software Engineer megatek!hollen at uunet.uu.net Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California ucsd!megatek!hollen Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1993 15:46:00 EST From: "Pamela J. Day 7560" <DAY at A1.TCH.HARVARD.EDU> Subject: Re: Mailing Beer/ UPS I have found that as far a UPS is concerned, as long as they don't know it's beer, they don't care. Even if they find out that it's beer they really don't care. My mother (being totally without a clue that she shouldn't do this) sent my brother in Kentucky a case of Sam Adams via UPS. When he got it, he called to thank her and ask why the she bothered to repack it and why was one bottle missing. It turns out that a bottle broke during shipment and UPS repackaged it and sent it on it's merry way, no questions asked. Oh well... Pam Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 13:15:35 PDT From: megatek!hollen at uunet.UU.NET (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Silver Solder on wort boilers >>>>> On Tue, 21 Sep 1993 14:57:13 -0400 (EDT), Wayde Nie <u9106857 at mcmail.cis.mcmaster.ca> said: Wayde> Hi All, Wayde> What is the collective net wisdom on using silver solder to Wayde> install the fittings into to base of a converted keg style boiler. I Wayde> would think that soldering would be less of an undertaking than Wayde> paying someone to weld SS. Wayde Nie, u9106857 at McMail.CIS.McMaster.CA Having done this, I can testify with some authority. Silver soldering SS works, but is *EXTREMELY* difficult to do correctly. The *MINIMUM* amount of heat possible to get the solder to flow should be used. Heat should not be applied for more than about 1 minute at a time, after which the area should be cooled *IMMEDIATELY* with a sopping wet rag. The best flux to use is the white paste kind which comes in the white 3" diam. plastic jar with a blue top (I forget the name). Use the flux sparingly. If you see that your solder is flowing in one place, but not all the places which you are trying to solder, you have oxidized that non-flowing area. *DO NOT APPLY MORE HEAT* to that area, cause that is our normal reaction when we see lack of flow. This is exactly the wrong thing to do. Stop, cool it off, clean it off well and start over again. If you overheat SS, it will become brittle. I know about all of what I say since I did all the wrong things. When I was done, the joints between the keg and the pipe nipple were strong, but they still leaked. Well, so we went to clean things up an in the process of melting off the excess solder, a piece of keg as big as my little finger nail dropped out of the keg wall. It had cracked and now I had a large hole to fill in as well. Finally changed over to bronze brazing rod and got the job redone and no leaks. Bottom line, get it welded. Don't be cheap and foolish. Also, when you get it welded, make sure the welder cools it immediately. If you do the welding and leave it to cool naturally, it will heat the surrounding area for more than the critical 5 minutes and you will get brittle SS again. Dion Hollenbeck (619)455-5590x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Senior Software Engineer megatek!hollen at uunet.uu.net Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California ucsd!megatek!hollen Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 16:57:08 EDT From: Bob_McIlvaine at keyfile.com Subject: POC Subject: Silver Solder Silver solder can be nasty to solder and can be hazardous to your health if you get the wrong stuff. For your health's sake, get the kind that is cadmium free, for your yeast's health get low, low lead content. The simplest flux is plain old borax, the chemical not the soap :-) You can get the solder and the flux at your local welding supply, consult them about the solder for food preparation vessels, melt point of at least 1200 degreesF. The flux you can get at hardware stores, drug stores (sometimes), and your local supplier of chemicals for school science labs. The actual soldering is tricky, burnish the stainless steel parts, mix the borax powder with water and apply to the joint, bring entire joint up to temperature, the borax will melt. Don't get the joint to hot (easier said than done, with stainless steel), to hot and the solder will ball up and roll right off. Some old timers will wrap the solder wire around the joint and heat indirectly until the solder sweats into the joint making a very nice fillet. The key is to not oxidixe the surface that the flux has cleaned, direct heat from a flame WILL oxidise. P.S. A welder with mig or tig capabilities will take about 10 minutes to weld the joint with Stainless but will probably charge an hour minimum, typically $30 to $40 per hour. Regards, Mac Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 93 14:13:17 -0400 From: Philip J Difalco <sxupjd at anubis.fnma.COM> Subject: Vigorous fermantation begin 666 .tar.540.Vigorous_fermantatio_.attach M'YV0:=R0*8/'A1PZ9 at `H7,BPH<.'$"-*G$BQ(HB+-FC0``$`1(P8-6#<X'BQ M)`R2)4O*T# at 21`T:(6?8F`&SI<L;-V)TK,BSI\^?0(,*'4JTJ-&C2),J5;J' MRT$S,+B$<3,G35,S;]S0H2.&#1<S,;ZV>3-0CAL00][4D9.FC)P=?11P:1-& MSADV,63`D$O7KIR\>[G`J4N&"QT\'VO(,(Q'Q at P8-!C3K&&#,0T;,'`PKG$# M,V,;.?(RQ at $C(^,<,F)4/AP#ADS-K$'J_1I63-0T4>NP<9.US-<Y*[^.B3H& M* at at N"I*<L%,&A! at Y9>Z4(0,B#( at I8]YL33,'#8 at at ;,JP`%&GJILS(.B at :8Z5 M#9LW=P*BASXF#9PR.I"GG%&2C9 at Y+H#0A`E& at ,!$&F> at 00<(9,B1QW0 at T,7& M at at 31(4<88]#!`G()S.`"?_X!>%UVVW4781 at 3 at E#AA1F",$<><M0!!P at HU.$& M&F_`<1\9*6RH0`(Q]"=& at & at Y.`<=*)Z8( at HTP,!$CQP&>=$;>A#IQ!L'K6<6 M"$)`)YT<((07AAD at X`C''#2*\48:;$#Y8PPOR``"E59BJ9Y;9W49G5MAEC%F MF3FBB8(9`7&'AIL)P!'0&-Z]0682;)G8Q!MSS.%C`E<\&,:1((S0&F4N((<< M%'*\,<9T:^''81-A#%2=BT at >Q"=68-X)0J9^'AGJCT*LR89\ at )Y9'70 at P%'' M at at &!L$096X4'`JVOUE!#A`$=VYR:;.Z:`!7K/5MH=\":B::QR)X%;:MDI$%' M&EDE.6T;U=)1!H"B*L!M<^H!RQT(29SH:KYHYL5 at &'F at &<89;Q#9+XMK0#BF MO&"V-G#!Z;U1'7)SE)&=0'7E0>,8=:F91PI$WNN<ER#L>R2;;)`GD%L(`XOA MNLP]ZU8;96 at 5QKI9[:I<S6Z4P1R8:+1:W5DH-D<0&FF(H:Z+=3!:789IU&S& MS3DCR;,;NYI\M1PXZ[QURF at BN0:P<+"!87,[#ZN60""`YD6!R;;AL1B;EA$V M';LB%P09Z=+1;LO9M;&W#A<54=>O;HW7+QR4RDN==1N?NJ7 at Z76;[AGS+AB& MFL<B9S<(=] at )`J,L\RE&&<`.U$*L;A at *H1 at >`TRZG41*,2_D5,W++W+TL<X< M=0&E"[+DF;=MX=K5C64C'6 at Z>GJ.]X'Y)=N`0XCYG<B5?M!X4U&GGO+K94QM MT!>R at 69\[JEXXU2G9LX>UF*SBS35=JB;1]\*3(&C;M3IU^JFYP;+!8TZ*,`2 M"-10G at 4534<CJP[H%F2[_"&L5.6Q&=BRMC/[_6!48C(?Y#BE0+V% at 4T1:DX> MU`*F-_S'+7;H8%;F\`*"5*\M!9Q7UXKFAC7,`3D*B,L;9&"#,,``!JW124,J ML` at `8```#`C#L=XP at \<<,8D-"0`%2`$`" at ! at `5(47`UL at T37+"0#ONCB%\/X M!LQ<T8P`",`0[*!&,$X1!F1XXPP68 at )9U)&-,6B#'A<"!`DX$8J`O,$1R[C' MAJB at $W^<H at S6,$B%S*`.D13<#,Y020` at X1*9;.,B89"#1 at * at "FL(I2*/N)16 MNO*5L(RE+&=)RUK:\I:XS*4N=\G+7OKRE\`,IC"'24P`W&$/H6S-&W.PD#\T MXY!1G&)(%MF:&SB$$`4(I5Z6N1!$/"&45BPC,Q7"B%8DLPQO5"(`*)&/4.:` MFJ1<2"G\`4U`3K.,ZER(*M10SRFJ!I[Y5, at NCM!/P<7 at !D;$IT-^P8>"OB$& M.$ at H%ALB"W`D4Y!EE,%"A at $-;;+AC1I5"#(ZD$RH*%0AS!!#*-V8T85` at Q?: M',Y)`4`-8X!3HDA<2#8,Z44["HXTZ5Q(-Z`02AC at =)P`"$<BDGG4A91#%RL= M)6H6(H]-J%*J(06`/?01RB9Q4R'[X.D:IPC4(TY5(?^ at at D.5V4F%!&``EE at K M6UMC2K=B0!MKE0%.ZQK'$+#!H:G9:Q:7$`W`CI*N63S")YCZ1AJX%0H<6*M7 MR^A8A at 2`"G!8ZSU;4]F%!``+F% at K2SF;12[8M*=LW"9EW1H&A3PQF at 95+6DM MFP98A'*SD%F(.GZ03$Z>-`!RV(`V\_A;/>`!G&2<:`#\L(NH!G4A2I`K0!TB M at C\DTPT at 70 at ">J%-C+8FJQ50!#A]^]V%B`$(R7Q#=A5B at EC<%IY950$GM(G= 4EL9QDLF$IPT6HH;HOI:-,H%G70%] ` end - --- email: sxupjd at fnma.com (NeXT Mail Okay) Philip DiFalco, Senior SomethingOrOther, Advanced Technology FannieMae, 3900 Wisconsin Ave. NW, Washington, DC 22016 (202)752-2812 Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1233, 09/24/93