FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  ICE beer, mailing lists (Richard Nantel)
  Sake Connection Newsletter (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer)
  Eisbock/pear-banana aromas (korz)
  nomail ("Leslie G. Hunter"                  )
  Names/Beer festival (Paul Beard)
  Homebrewers in Cambridge, UK (Bob_McIlvaine)
  Pale Ale (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Dream Tun (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Can you say "ack!" ? (chris campanelli)
  burnt aftertaste ("Jeff M. Michalski, MD")
  Strongest Beers - the facts (Alan_Marshall)
  Maltier Pale Ale ("Robert H. Reed")
  Re: Equipment/pitching/filtering/hops (Jim Busch)
  Head Retention, Beer Labels, and less... (Earle M. Williams)
  Leinenkugel's true brew (John Williams)
  Re: SS Fitting (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Question Re: _Practical_Brewer_ (emeeks)
  Ngoma (esonn1)
  EKU KULMINATOR (Jack St Clair)
  mead list address (corrected) and signing up (Dick Dunn)
  Tres Equis (Jack St Clair)
  Shops in PGH? ("Justin J. Lam")
  Dream tun (Phil Duclos)
  Old Lucifer update (npyle)
  NA Beer (GNT_TOX_)
  America Online: CENSORSHIP ("J. Andrew Patrick")
  fruit flavorings (LLAPV)
  Filtration (Jim Cave)
  EKU-28 (Brian R Seay )
  Iodophor / rinsing (Tom Hamilton)
  Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #12... (robertw905)
  Fruit Extracts, Celebration Hopping (Mark Garetz)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 08 Dec 93 18:21:23 EST
From: Richard Nantel <72704.3003 at CompuServe.COM>
Subject: ICE beer, mailing lists

Bob Talkiewicz mentions in HB1291>
>A friend just brought me a couple bottles of this version of the new ice
>beers. This Maximum is 7.1% alcohol by volume!
>Still doesn't taste like much , but does have some kick.
>This was purchased in Canada.

The Canadian Beer industry has been for years protected from the influx of 
less expensive, American-made beers. With this trade arrangement coming to 
an end in 1994, the major breweries (Molson, Labatt) have been coming out 
with a `new' beer almost weekly. This is a last-ditch attempt to produce 
brand loyalty before the gates open wide. 

The latest trend is for high-alcohol brews. The newest addition is Labatt's 
XXX with 7.4% alcohol. Strangely enough, and to quote a German aquaintance, 
`you have 50 different beers and they all taste alike! The new potent brews 
are no exception. Thank goodness for some excellent Quebec microbreweries; 
most notably St-Ambroise and Hops Brau.

Teddy Winstead writes>Could somebody please e-mail me the addresses for:

>The Lambic Mailing List
>The Mead Mailing List

I too would appreciate these addresses.

Thanks

Richard Nantel
Montreal, Quebec
Canada 

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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 1993 22:44:15 -0800
From: mfetzer at UCSD.EDU (The Rider) (Michael Fetzer)
Subject: Sake Connection Newsletter

Well, well!

I'm amazed by the huge response I'm getting. Seems as if a lot of people
are into Sake!

I'll be passing a compiled list of all the real mail addresses I've gotten
on to Fred Eckhardt on the 22nd, so you've got until then to get them in!

Many people have only sent email addresses, at this point that doesn't help
much. Maybe there's a way I can digitize a copy of it, or see if Fred's
wordprocessor format is compatible with anything I can get my fingers on,
and I will upload a copy.

Several folks have suggested starting a sake mailing list... I do not have
the ability to start one, nor do I know how to start a listserv operated
mailing list. It seems most sake brewing fans are on usenet, reading
rec.crafts.winemaking. Much more so that homebrew digest, altho sake is
more of a beer than a wine...

Maybe J-Food-L is the place to discuss such things? It has low traffic, but
I'm not sure how many people there actually care about making sake, as
opposed to drinking it and using it in their cooking?

Anyway, send me your ideas and keep sending mailing addresses if you want
to receive a sample of the newsletter!

Mike


- --
Michael Fetzer                         pgp 2.2 key available on request
Internet:      mfetzer at ucsd.edu        uucp:    ...!ucsd!mfetzer
Bitnet:        FETZERM at SDSC
HEPnet/SPAN:   SDSC::FETZERM           or       27.1::FETZERM



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Date: Wed, 8 Dec 93 13:43 CST
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: Eisbock/pear-banana aromas

Ed writes:
>     For anyone who wants to taste a _real_ ice beer, try EKU Kulminator
>Urtyp Hell 28 from Germany (That's the entire name of the beer, honest!).
>It is concentrated by freezing as are the North American "ice" beers.

According to Jackson, EKU fiercely denies that freeze distillation is used
in the making of Kulminator.  It indeed is a very strong doppelbock.  If
it was made using freeze distillation, then it would be called an Eisbock.
The AHA has an Eisbock category and if memory serves, there was one in the
medals this year -- you might look up the brewer's specifics there.

********
David writes:
>I am having a problem that perhaps you folks out there in HBD-land could 
>help me with.  In short (hopefully), my last two brews came out with the 
>same flavor, but I used different ingredients.

<recipes deleted>

>In both brews, I used a 1400 mL yeast starter (very active) and 
>fermentation started in about 5 hours.  Previously, I had used only only 
>500 mL starters, with fermentation in 24 hours.
>
>The problem is that both beers have a pronounced flavor component to them 
>- -- sort of a pear/banana-like aroma and taste (IMO, but it is hard for me 
>to judge).

My guess would be that this is either a characteristic of the pitching yeast
or you have a monsterous wild yeast infection somewhere in your system.
Does your starter smell like this?   If yes, then you've found your source.
You may try a lower fermentation temperature as ester production (esters give
the fruity aromas/flavors to beers) tends to be lower at lower temps.  If you
still get too much of these esters for your taste from the lower temps, then
I guess you'll have to change yeasts.  If it is a wild yeast infection in your
system (unlikely because of your reported quick starts), you need to check
your sanitation procedures and/or replace scratched plastic equipment.

Al.

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Date:    Thu, 09 Dec 93 07:34 CST
From: "Leslie G. Hunter" <KFLGH00%TAIMVS1.BITNET at TAIVM1.TAIU.EDU>
Subject: nomail

set homebrew NOMAIL

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1993 08:54:19 -0500
From: paul.beard at gatekeeper.mis.tridom.com (Paul Beard)
Subject: Names/Beer festival

My beers will be universally known as Workingman's Reward, whether they be
lagers, ales or porters. My brother-in-law actually silk-screens his
bottles and I will be asking him how he does it. Then its to the drawing
board/computer for a logo design and I'll have a unique gift idea for years
to come. 

What I would like to see is a local beer festival with brewers donating
product for tasting (at a price - for charity); maybe some judging, but
more just a good time for a good cause or two. 

Does anyone have experience with this type of thing?

Paul Beard
AT&T Tridom, 840 Franklin Court, Marietta, GA 30067 
404 514-3798 * FAX: 404 429-5419 * tridom!paul.beard/beardp at tridom.com



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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 93 08:59:08 EST
From: Bob_McIlvaine at keyfile.com
Subject: Homebrewers in Cambridge, UK


Are there any homebrewers in HBD
land from the Cambridge, UK area?

I'm actually trying to get in touch with
some old work mates.

Regards,
Mac

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 09:28:07 EST
From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
Subject: Pale Ale

Adding malt at mash-out will not contribute to malt flavor, but will
very likely give you starch haze.  For a maltier flavor, try one or
more of the following:
1. Switch base malts (e.g., Maris Otter, DeWolf-Cosyns Belgian Pale,
   Hugh Baird)
2. Mash longer (1.5 to 2 hours)
3. Add lightly-kilned malts (Munich, Vienna, toasted malt -- make it
   yourself at 350 for 15 minutes or so) in small amounts
4. Decoction mash.

=S

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 09:31:27 EST
From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
Subject: Dream Tun

A friend uses a pico-brewery(tm) system (3 converted SS half-barrels).
He's insulated the mash-tun with what looks like strips of cedar (from
2-bys, probably).  This apparently works pretty well.  With three
kettles, he's got one for hot liquour, one for mash, and one for
boiling.

=S

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 07:59 CST
From: akcs.chrisc at vpnet.chi.il.us (chris campanelli)
Subject: Can you say "ack!" ?

I had a chance over the weekend to try Noche Buena.

I'm sure glad I wasn't the one who paid money for it.

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 09:06:26 -0500
From: "Jeff M. Michalski, MD" <michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu>
Subject: burnt aftertaste

Hello homebrewers,

In September I brewed my version of a Christmas ale (strong and hoppy).
  The grain bill is as follows:

6 lb pale
3 lb klages
1 lb dark crystal (caramunich)
1 lb chocolate
1 lb carapils
1/4 lb black patent

Near the end of the boil I also added 1 lb of dark brown sugar.
 OG 1072, FG 1021 (wyeast 1056).

It has been in a soda keg after completing primary and secondary
 fermentation for at least 6 weeks.

It has an overwhelming burnt taste to it!  The initial flavor is 
 strong malt and ETOH (and a lot of hops!) but the charcoal flavor
 that follows is enough to scare away my guests.  My question is 
 will this heavy roast flavor soften with age?  I am tempted to
 pull off the tap and let it sit till next year (there certainly
 are enough hops and ETOH to let it withstand the wait).  Certainly
 next year I am changing the amount of dark grains.
JEFF M. MICHALSKI
michalski_jm at rophys.wustl.edu


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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1993 09:55 EDT
From: Alan_Marshall <AK200032 at Sol.YorkU.CA>
Subject: Strongest Beers - the facts

In HBD #1293, darrylri at microsoft.com

D> > Oh, and it is reputed to have the highest alcohol content of any commercial
D> > beer.  (Maybe, maybe not).  I know it is around 12%, and it packs a wallop!
D> 
D> No;  EKU 28 has the highest OG of any regularly available beer.  But
D> Hurlimann's Samichlaus, brewed from a slightly lower OG, is a bit more
D> fermentable and so has a higher alcoholic result (and a more drinkable
D> product, IMHO).  This, in spite of the boastful claims on the EKU 28
D> label ("Das starkste Bier der Welt").

Samichlaus used to be the strongest.  It has been passed three times.  

The following is posted occasionally (i.e. whenever a "Molson XXX is 
the strongest" claim/flame war starts) to alt.beer:

The following reflects my latest revision to the Beer Records FAQ's
section on the Strongest Beer.  I have revised it to reflect the
authenticated current record holder, the past record holder it
surpassed, and the pending record holder, subject to authentication.
(Those wishing to hasten the record authentication process can do so
by sending me a case ;-)  I have included Samichlaus and EKU Kulminator
28 in a section called "Other Notables" as their names will often come
up in arguments about the world's strongest beer.

I will not repost the entire FAQ (bandwidth considerations).  Copies
of the Beer Records FAQ are available from me by email (ak200032 at 
sol.yorku.ca).  Suggestions and Corrections are always accepted.
Flames:  Relax, just have a brew!  Thanks to Conor O'Neill and Sean
Lamb for their updates!

     -------------------------------------------------------

Strongest Beer:

Current:

The Guinness Book of Records has just accepted a newer contender:
Uncle Igor's Famous Falling over Water, brewed by the Ross Brewery,
in Bristol, UK, which is 17.3% abv.  <Supplied by Conor O'Neill --
conor at inmos.co.uk>

Past:

Roger & Out, brewed at the Frog & Parrot in Sheffield, Great
Britain, from a recipe devised by W. R. Nowill and G. B. Spencer,
is 16.9% abv., and was the old record-holder (GBR, 1992)

Pending:

It has been recently announced that the Boston Beer Company (marketers
of the Samual Adams line of beers) will be marketing a 17.5% "Triple
Bock" beer in the near future.  While Sean Lamb posted that this would
be 17.5% by weight, I would like to see some confirmation on this.
Its abv would be in the low 20% range which would be far in excess of
anything else.

Other notables from the recent past:

Samichlaus Dark 1987 (Brauerei Huerlimann, Zurich, Switzerland) is
the strongest lager at 14.93% abv.  (GBR, 1992)  Michael Jackson
also refers to this as the "world's strongest beer"

Michael Jackson also refers to EKU Kulminator 28 as having the
highest gravity (28 degrees guaranteed, but some have been as high
as 30.54 degrees).  The alcohol content is 13.5% abv.

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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 1993 10:23:16 -0500 (EST)
From: "Robert H. Reed" <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com>
Subject: Maltier Pale Ale

A post was made in HBD #1293 regarding making a Pale Ale with
a maltier character:

I have found that some of the Wolf-DeCosyns grains such as
CaraVienne and Aromatic will enhance the malty character of
beers.  Without making a comment on the quality of M&F base
malts, I would also suggest experimenting with the Wolf-DeCosyns
Pale malt as your base malt: I believe these grains are some of 
finest grains you can buy. 

My experience with the Caravienne malt is that it adds a very
pleasing smooth caramel character to your brew and the aromatic
adds a wicked, munich-like character to the aroma and flavor of 
your beer.  I believe their Biscuit malt or home-toasted pale
malt adds an interesting malty/toasty character as well.

Rob Reed


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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1993 10:38:55 -0500 (EST)
From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: Re: Equipment/pitching/filtering/hops

> From: John_D._Sullivan.wbst311 at xerox.com
> Subject: Pale Ale
> 	I'm an all-grainer who likes a BIG tasting pale ale, not necessarily in
 OG or alcohol level, but very malty and very hoppy. Of course the hoppy part is
 easy, and  some yeasts have helped with the malty part. I use M&F pale 2-row
 and mash at around 155degF. My idea is to add 1/4 or 1/2 lb pale at mash out,
 to add flavor. What would be the pros and cons of this? Or is there something
 else I haven't considered?

I would skip the addition at mash out in favor of using Munich (imported) and
caramel malts in the mash.  My high gravity beers (diluted into the fermenter)
were attenuating too much, and the addition of Munich and caramel helped.

> From: npyle at n33.stortek.com
> Subject: Dream Tun
> 
I favor using a hot water heater for sparge (hot liquor tank), and use the 
kettle to mash in.  Transfer the mash to the dedicated lauter tun with 
some kind of false bottom (perf sheet works great), insulate the lauter
tun.  The disadvantage is you need a way to transfer the mash.  

> From: John Eustace <3JCE1 at QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA>
> Subject:      Pitching Rates
> 
> Hi all,
> I have a question I'd like to ask concerning pitch rates for lagers.  I've
> 5 gallon batches, but now we're talking about pitching to 180 gallons.
> 
> Using the formula for lager pitching in the yeast faq, I have determined that
> I need to pitch .72 gallons of slurry.  

The rule of thumb is one million cells/ml/degree plato of wort.  Pitch yeast
up in a ten to one ratio to grow the slurry, let ferment each step, decant
off the beer, and use the slurry.  For a micro making lagers be sure to use
at least 1 lb of thick slurry per BBl of wort.  It is better to do cell 
counts, but this requires a little lab equipment.  John Mallet wrote a 
good article on counting cells in the New Brewer Magazine. You dont want
to put 18 gallons of starter into 180, so decant off and use the fresh 
slurry.

Bill Szymczak:
> which in the limit at dt -> 0 becomes a differential equation.
> The solution (assuming the initial temp T(0) = 212F) is
> 
>    T(t) = Ti + (212-Ti)*exp(-R*t/N) .
> 
> The amount of time t required to reduce the temperature from 
> 212 to T is
> 
>        N    (212-Ti)
>   t =  - log|------|
>        R    ( T-Ti )
> 

Neat! Diff_eqs on the digest.  I knew I had that class for some reason.


> non-blow-off batch better).  Some incorrectly identified the two
> batches and some "punted" and said no difference.  All agreed
> that if there was a difference it was minor. Therefore,
> despite the wide variations in fermentation times, both batches
> came out nearly identical with the blow-off having little or no effect.
> Of course, this is just one data point and your mileage may
> vary.

I had these beers and they were indeed *very* similar.  It was a good
experiment.

> From: COYOTE <SLK6P at cc.usu.edu>
> Subject: Filtering/ BarneyWine
> 
> Jim sez he thinks a 5 micron filter is going to remove cells.
> Most bacteria are on the order of 1 micron. yeast fall more in
> the 3 micron range.  Cells can aggregate and "act" bigger.
> But I would contend that a 5 micron filter is definitely not
> going to "sterilize" a beer.  And from my understanding (NOT experience)
> it will not REMOVE the body of a beer. It may well "thin" things
> a bit.  At 3 microns there is more cell removal, but still not
> sterilization.  

The discussion had nothing to do with sterilazation per say, .5 micron
will result in *sterile filtered beer*.  I can assure you that 4/5 
microns removes 90+% of the yeast biomass.  I would bet the number is
closer to 96+%.  The local micro filters to 4 microns and there is never
any residual yeast evident to the eye, nor do they throw sediment from 
yeast.  If you want to strip your beer of proteins, go ahead and try a
<1 micron filter, I have read the head retention drops by a factor of
4.

> count in a keg.  I force pressurize, so I don't "need" them there,
> but I like my B-vitamins, so I don't plan to get rid of them ALL.

It also changes the flavor of the beer, bringing out more malt/hop notes
absent from the affects of yeast cells.  I am still experimenting on the
effects of hop aroma wrt filtering.
> - ------------------------------------------------------
> Barney's Blebbing BarleyWhine:  (planofaction)
> 
> 10# 6 Row Pale Malt

Why would you ever want 6 row malt in this beer??

> 10# 2 Row Pale malt
Why not 20 #s 2 row?

> 4# 2 row vienna

This will be overwhelmed by the caramel/biscut/roast that follows.  Besides,
the beer should have immense body due to the amount of malt used.

> 2# aromatic munich-belgian
> 2# Biscuit-"
> 1# Crystal- 60L
> 1# Crystal- 120L
> 1/2 cup roast

Personal preference is to skip the roast. 
> 
> Mash.  Pull first 6.5 gallons of sparge.   Begin boil.
> 
> add:    6# Williams english dark extract
>         2# Brown sugar

Wow, you want black beer , right?  I would go with the lightest dry 
extract to be found.

>         
> Boil Hops:  1 oz Chinook (13a), 1.5 oz Centennial (10a)
> 1/2 Boil:   1 oz Cascade (7.3a), 0.5 oz N. Brewer (7.6a)='93!
> Finish:     1 oz Homegrown Cascade- alpha unknown!  :)  but stinky!
> 
> Abbey Ale yeast culture.  Warm initial ferment. (65-70).
> Then cooler into secondary...maybe even down to the 50 deg basement!

Interesting!  A "Belgian Imperial Stout"!!

> 
> Bottle with 1 cup molasses.  Age for a LONG time.  :)
molasses may indeed lengthen the aging period.  Maybe do half with sugar
as a comparison.  If you have any way to add oxygen do so.  As gravity
increases, the amount of O2 that can be saturated decreases.  

> From: Delano Dugarm 36478 <ADUGARM at worldbank.org>
> Subject: Hop Teas and Dry Hopping ~#
> 
> I am brewing a hoppy pale ale, something like Sierra Nevada's 
> Celebration ale.  I started with a 1065 O.G. wort, and hopped as 
> follows:
> 
> 	1 oz Centennial (9.6%) 60 min.
> 	1 oz Mt. Hood (?%) 60 min.
> 	1 oz Cascades (5.4%) 10 min.
If the Hood are from me, they are 6.3%.
> 
> I fermented with WYeast American Ale, of course, keeping the 
> temperature mostly below 65.  The question I have is how to 
> finish it.  The last time I made this I dry hopped with an ounce 
> of Cascades for a week before bottling, and it turned out quite 
> well.  My only complaint was that it didn't have the _depth_ of 
> hop taste that Celebration has.  I'm leaning towards dry hopping 
> again, but noted a suggestion that you steep hops in a hot water 
> and add this tea at bottling time for greater flavor and aroma.  

I would add more flavor hops at 30, 20 min to end of boil, and stick 
with the normal dry hopping.  You will increase hop flavor at 20 min
additions.  I prefer cask hopping/dry hopping over my hop tea attempts.

Good brewing,
Jim Busch


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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 8:44:48 MST
From: Earle M. Williams <earlew at drc.usbm.gov>
Subject: Head Retention, Beer Labels, and less...


I cracked the top on a bottle of Nut Brown Ale last night, aged two weeks,
and i noticed that while the carbonation was good, there was very little
head.  I tried pouring the beer from about 4 inches (10 cm) and it foamed
up nicely, but within about 10 seconds it had settled to a slim memory
of a thick foamy head.  I hadn't really tried for a thick head in this
beer, but it got me to thinking about past brews that had similar
characteristics.  Is there something I can add or delete to my brews that 
would encourage more head?  I would appreciate some comments, with or without
puns. :>

I'v put together some slick beer labels using Corel Draw (for  the PC) using
the clip-art that comes with the package.  *Very Impressive*! I noticed
the software selling for about $US140 at a warehouse membership store.  The
collection of clip-art (on CDROM) that comes with this software makes the
purchase more than justifiable.

I was playing with the hop utilization numbers to try and quantify the
hoppiness of my last batch, and i realized that I had no clue as to the
amount of hops in the canned extract.  Anyone have any general or specific
ideas as to how much is added to canned extracts?  This was an Australian
Draft from Cooper's - the first time I've used it, and I hope all works well.
Is the hops in the extract altered further by my wort boil, or is it going
to remain pretty constant?  I'm wondering if it's possible to quantify the
added BU's from canned extract.  Maybe put it in terms of BUL's, or
BitteringUnit-Liters.  Just wondering....

Hoppy Christmas,
Earle


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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 11:06:11 EST
From: jwilliam at uhasun.hartford.edu (John Williams)
Subject: Leinenkugel's true brew

Subject: returned mail for beer
Status: R

Mail error was: 550 <beer>... User unknown

- --- returned mail follows ---
To: beer
Subject: Leinenkugel's real brew

HB 

	I have a friend who wants to serve Leinenkugel at a Christmas
party.  I remeber seeing something in the past month about some of the
Leinenkugel beers being brewed at the original brewery and some not.
Could whoever posted that or has a copy of the post mail it to me?
Thanks.



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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 08:22:07 PST
From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck)
Subject: Re: SS Fitting


>>>>> "Mark" == x-4378  <SIMPSON> writes:

Mark> Howdy Brewpeople!

Mark> I am trying to rebuild my SS sparge keg, which currently has a
Mark> brazed-on galvanized, screw-in fitting for my 1500 watt,
Mark> electric hot water heating element, low density type (ala Rodney
Mark> Morris' RIM system).  I would like to remove the fitting and
Mark> replace it with a stainless steel boss fitting, as I am having
Mark> corrosion problems.  Anybody out there have a good source for
Mark> large SS fittings???

I would suggest a 1 1/4" to 1" bushing.  If you have a SS beer keg, it
is made from 304 stainless and it is imperative that you get your
fitting in 304 also.  You should weld it with 308 wire.  One source
for this is McMaster-Carr in Santa Fe Springs, CA.  I do not have
their current phone number since I am at work, and can only look at a
catalog several years old.  However the part numbers are still good:

	1 1/4" x 1" Hex Bushing 304SS   #4460K16    $9.96

The price should not be too much more than the old price.  One thing
to keep in mind is that the heater elements have NPSM threads
(National Pipe Straight Machine) while the bushings are NPT (National
Pipe Taper).  The 1' threads are both 11 pitch, so they will fit, but
not all bushings will fit your heater.  If someone while making the
bushing ran the tap in too far or not far enough, then you will not
get a snug fit  in the threads by the time your rubber washer is snug.
You may have the threads bottom out too soon and let your washer flap
loose.  If the first one does not work, exchange it for one which does
work.  

I was fortunate enough to have a SS supply store here locally when I
went to buy these parts and I went through several fittings before
finding one which would fit.  In fact, the first one I tried did not
fit, so I assumed that *none* would fit, so I bought a 1 1/4" x 3/4"
and reamed out the inside to 1" and cut 11 pitch straight machine
threads in it.  Only then did I find out later that most fittings *do*
fit NPSM to NPT.

The only drawback is that McMaster-Carr may not sell to an individual.
They mostly deal with businesses.  You may be able to get them to send
it COD, or to give them a credit card number.

If you have any questions, I have made a heater chamber a'la Morris
RIMS, have a working RIMS system and have done SS welding on my kegs
for thermometer connections.  I would be more than happy to help out.

dion

Dion Hollenbeck (619)455-5590x2814     Email: hollen at megatek.com
Senior Software Engineer                      megatek!hollen at uunet.uu.net
Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California    ucsd!megatek!hollen


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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 11:54:16 EST
From: emeeks at tx.ncsu.edu
Subject: Question Re: _Practical_Brewer_

Hi folks--

Last week I stumbled across a copy of _Practical_Brewer_, a textbook
published by the Master Brewer's Association of America, at a local
used book store. The price was only $5, so I snatched it up. It seems
to provide a good overview of how the "big boys" manufacture beer. However,
I noticed that this edition was published in 1978. Has there been a revised
and updated edition since then? It seems to me that a newer edition might
have a chapter or two on microbrewery operations. Anyone have a newer
edition, and if so, could we compare chapter titles?

Email welcome. Thanks!

- --Ed Meeks (emeeks at tx.ncsu.edu)

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1993 12:01:43 +1000
From: esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu
Subject: Ngoma

Hi hombrewers,
        I recently tasted some African beer called Ngoma.  The beer tastes
great (also has quite a kick to it), but I have a few problems with it. 
First, it's very expensive ($33 a case) and second, I think it must be
pasteurized because it claims to be brewed and bottled _in_ Africa.  Does
anyone know what type of beer this is?  Anyone tried to copy it?  I would
be most interested in a recipe.  I'm an extract brewer now, but I'm looking
forward to doing a partial mash as Norm described in the HBD, so all
extract or partial extract recipes are in order.  

Thanks in advance and thanks for reading such an obscure posting.

Eugene          esonn1 at cc.swarthmore.edu


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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 09:47:24 PST
From: Jack St Clair <Jack_St_Clair at ccm.hf.intel.com>
Subject: EKU KULMINATOR


Text item: Text_1

In HBD#1292, Ed kopek passed on some date regarding EKU Kulminator Urtyp 
Hell 28 as being the epitome of 'Ice Beer' and I just wanted to add to 
his comments.  First, the 28 in the title refers to the percent of 
alcohol in the beer.  That's right folks, 28% = 56 proof.  The bier is 
billed as "Die Starkest Bier Das Welt" (sp) or "The strongest beer in 
the world".  It is generally served right out of the freezer as an after 
dinner liquor in small two-ounce classes (or the equivalent metric 
size).  It pours like, and looks like, maple syrup with absolutely no 
head.  It puts a nice finishing touch on a heavy meal.  It is not meant 
to quaff in bottle quantities.  Ed is right, it does pack one helluva 
wallop  

While in Berlin, we did use it to fortify other biers with the 
predictable results.  Ruined good bier for the sake of a quick buzz.  If 
you want to slip someone a "Mickey", EKU Kulminator Urtyp Hell 28 is one 
good way to do it.

At any rate, try it!  It certainly is unique.

Jack St.Clair
Portland, Oregon
Jack_St_Clair at ccm.hf.intel.com

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Date: 9 Dec 93 10:40:36 MST (Thu)
From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn)
Subject: mead list address (corrected) and signing up

Shirley Mae Thompson wrote:
> ...there is a mead digest at "mead-lovers-request@ ekletex.com"...
                                                    ^^^^^^^
Please - it's mead-lovers-request@ eklektix.com.

Pardon some babble...If you're trying to sign up, please be sure you pro-
vide a valid address in the body of your message UNLESS you're sure your
mailer puts a good one in the header.  This means one of the following:
	- ! format address with a machine name registered in the uucp maps
	- ! format path relative to a well-known host
	-  at  format (DNS) address
but NOT:
	- mixed !  at  format - this is guaranteed NOT to work
	- %  at  format - this *might* work but it's a bad bet
Signup requests are examined by a human, so any plausible format of the
body of the message is OK.

Sorry for the off-topic posting, folks.  I've had to toss some signup
requests because I could neither decipher nor reply to them.
- ---
Dick Dunn    rcd at eklektix.com   -or-   raven!rcd    Boulder, Colorado USA
Coordinator, Mead-Lover's Digest

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 10:10:25 PST
From: Jack St Clair <Jack_St_Clair at ccm.hf.intel.com>
Subject: Tres Equis


Text item: Text_1

In HBD#1291, Russel Gelinas asked the question regarding "XXX" out of 
Mexico.  Tres Equis "XXX" does indeed exist and is made by the same 
company as Dos Equis "XX".  It is very hard to find in the good ol' U.S. 
but can be found in some obscure Mexican Restaurants.  I ask for it 
every time I go into a Mexican establishment and sometimes get lucky.  
"XXX" is a good beer that just didn't catch on here in the states.  
Since I haven't had it in a while, I don't know if it is still being 
produced or exported.  Some help here would be appreciated.  I remember 
it being quite available in Alamogordo, NM and in El Paso, TX back in 
the sixties.  We used to get it in Juarez, Mexico on a regular basis.  
Any one knowing any more about this beer might be able to help.  Private 
post OK.

Jack St.Clair
Portland, Oregon
Jack_St_Clair at ccm.hf.intel.com

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Date: Thu,  9 Dec 1993 13:39:10 -0500 (EST)
From: "Justin J. Lam" <jl62+ at andrew.cmu.edu>
Subject: Shops in PGH?


Any good recommendations for supplies in the tri-state area (WV,OH,Pgh PA?)  

I plan to visit Country Wines on Babcock Blvd this weekend, but I've
never been there.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Slammer.

Slammer+ at CMU.EDU

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 11:52:16 MST
From: pjd at craycos.com (Phil Duclos)
Subject: Dream tun


I tried using steam to heat my mash tun last time and liked it a lot. I used
a carefully converted pressure cooker. The result was rapid, even heating
with a lot of convection in the liquid. I felt better about this method than
the direct flame method and consequently did little stirring. My false bottom
traps a gallon or so of liquid so I normally worry about carmelization. The 
mash also wasn't diluted as is normally the case with hot water additions. I
use a keg for the mash/lauter tun but I suspect that this method would work
well with a coller setup too.

I liked the setup so well that I chopped my brew rack up to accomodate the
steam heat setup. However I did away with the pressure cooker and built a
steam generator instead. Its basically a large diameter copper pipe with a
burner under it. I ran across a lateral burner from a hot water heater (as
opposed to a circular one) so it fits nice. The water supply is from my hot
liquor tank and the generator really only needs to be filled once. Fire it up
and steam is quickly generated. Open the valve to the mash tun and you're
heating. It is important to watch that you don't run out of water, the burner
is hot enough to destroy the copper pipe if it is empty. There is also a
pressure relief valve on the output of the generator however the pressure 
does not rise above 2 psi when heating the mash.

I have yet to insulate the mash tun, but that's next on the list.

Please be careful with pressure cookers and high pressure steam - They are
dangerous! So be careful.


phil
pjd at craycos.com


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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 11:47:45 MST
From: npyle at n33.stortek.com
Subject: Old Lucifer update

John the Coyote wrote:

>I wonder if I'll have to pitch champ. later to deal with all the
fermentables.  Hope it don't stall!  Some know what a bother that
can be!  (so how's it doing now norm?)

I forgot to report on Old Lucifer after things got better (isn't that just like
the media?  Only reporting the bad stuff).  Well, after pitching wine yeast
(dry, straight out of the packet) things did not progress any for several days,
maybe a week.  Then fermentation picked up and it went from 1.036 to 1.022 in a
couple of weeks (OG was 1.085).  Things settled down and I bottled at 1.022
after a total of 10 weeks fermentation.  Its a fine Bwine now.  I bottled it
without priming sugar for several reasons.  I like my barley wines low in
carbonation.  Most of my homebrews continue to increase carbonation over months
(if they last that long).  I pitched 2 different ale yeasts and a wine yeast so
there are lots of different types of guys in there looking for sugar.  I plan
to keep some of this stuff for several years.  I've read competition judge's
comments that said "reduce priming sugar" on barley wines more than once.  So,
of course it is dead flat now, but it should be great Christmas of 94, and 95,
and 96...  Anyway, my lesson learned is pitch, pitch, pitch, and aerate,
aerate, aerate for high gravity brews!!!

Cheers,
Norm

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Date:     Thu, 9 Dec 93 14:59 EST
From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject:  NA Beer

Anyone know of a good way to make non-alcoholic beer.  I have a friend at
work who doesn't drink, and I was wondering if any of the great beer
styles of the world can be brewed without alcohol.

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1993 15:06:30 -40975532 (CST)
From: "J. Andrew Patrick" <andnator at genesis.Mcs.Com>
Subject: America Online: CENSORSHIP

<GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> writes about
America OnLine in HBD #1292:

>There is a brewing forum on America OnLine in the "Wine and Dine"
>section.  They keywork "Wine" will get you there.  We have about 10
>message bases and coming soon will be an interactive database
>containing HBD.

I must STRONGLY urge HBD readers not to waste their time with the AOL Beer
Forum.  The head of the Wine and Dine forum there, Mr. Craig Goldwyn,
is a egotistical prude who has no hesitation in using blatant censorship
to remove postings that he finds not to his own personal liking.

I was very active in the AOL Beer Forum, until a recent reorganization
caused several of my lengthly postings to be deleted with neither my
knowledge, not my consent.  When I expressed by outrage at this by saying
I was "pissed off", Craig Goldwyn said he had to delete THAT posting
because it used "profanity".  He also went ahead and deleted several
follow-up posts I made because they "no longer made sense" after the
original posting was gone.  He also deleted several messages from other
members criticizing his censorhip.  I thought that this sort of blatant,
transparent censorship went out with the Berlin Wall!

He also deleted messages I left there that he claimed contained
"libellous statements" concerning Jim Koch's Boston Beer Company.
In actual fact, all statements I made concerning the BBC were backed
up by hard evidence from the Home Brew Digest, Boston Globe, and
regional Brews Papers.  I think the deletions had more to do with
a direct verbal threat from Jim Koch to file a libel suit than any
lack of credibility in my sources.

I have ceased all postings to the AOL Beer Forum, and will not change
this policy until I receive a public apology from Mr. Craig Goldwyn.
+--------------+---------------------------------+--------------+
|Sysop         |         Andrew Patrick          |       Founder|
|Home Brew Univ| AHA/HWBTA Recognized Beer Judge |Home Brew Univ|
|Midwest BBS   |Founder and Sysop,HBU BBS Network| Southwest BBS|
|(708)705-7263 |Internet:andnator at genesis.mcs.com| (713)923-6418|
+--------------+---------------------------------+--------------+






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Date: Thursday,  9 December 93 15:50:23 CST
From: LLAPV at utxdp.dp.utexas.edu
Subject: fruit flavorings

Howdy,

In HBD #1293, Matthew Evans asks about the fruit flavorings offered in
HopTech's catalogue.

I've tried a raspberry fruit flavoring from St. Patrick's of Texas.  My
brother & I used it in a wheat beer we brewed this fall.  I don't know if
it is the same stuff that HopTech is marketing, but I can give my opinion of
it.

The flavor came out fine, & was definitely raspberry-ish, but was lacking
a little.  Also, I felt that the flavor softened after a few weeks in the
bottle, almost disappearing.  Also, even though it was obviously red in
color, it added very little color to the beer itself, which disappointed me
because I was hoping for a drink with color.

Overall, I'd have to say that it's an easy & cheap shortcut to producing a
fruit beer, but if you are shooting for something high quality, I'd use
fruit instead.  It's real handy if you only want to make a few bottles of
a fruit beer & the rest a regular beer (which is why we tried the flavoring).
It's also suggested that you can add the flavoring to your glass instead of
bottling.  Even though I haven't tried this but once (when trying to determine
how much in each bottle to add), I think it might be fun to get an idea how
a Sierra Nevada Blueberry Pale Ale or Guiness Raspberry Stout might taste.

Hmm... now that I've piqued my own curiosity...

Alan, Austin

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 1993 15:15:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim Cave <CAVE at PSC.ORG>
Subject: Filtration

      There has been some limited dialogue on the digest lately
about the relative advantages/disadvantages about filtering beers. 
I regularly filter some of my beers, depending how quickly I use
them, how much time I have and for what purpose they will be used. 
I have also been able to compare various beers which have been
filtered with unfiltered "control kegs" from the same batches. 
Invariably, I have found that filtered beers have a cleaner, more
professional quality and are brilliantly clear, however, these beers
are less stable, the latter feature I believe due to a couple of
aspects of home filtration systems.  

      I think I remember that I read in Dave Miller's book on
Pilsners, that this type of beer benefits from filtration, by
removing "green beer" qualities.  However, he notes that the life
of the beer is reduced by stripping the beer of it's yeast.  I
concur with this.  I find that a home-filtered pilsner that has
been kept at serving temperature noticeably deteriorates after
about a month to 6 weeks, depending on how much is left in the keg.

      If one thinks about it, the home filtration system is affected
by our abilities to first, sterilize it and then minimize
oxidation.  Since effective filtration depends on maximizing the
surface to volume ratios of the filtration screen to beer volume,
there is a potential for a "surface" with a lot of bacteria and a
lot of oxygen, as well as a lot of "paper", as in my situation.  I
try and sanitize everything but the pads--I just don't want to risk
ruining the beer with a sanitizer taste.  I then "wash" the pads
with lots of sterile, de-aerated water, to remove as much "paper
taste" as possible.

      I keep beer on the yeast for as long as possible.  In the case
of lagers, this is cold storage (32 F) for as many as 6-8 months. 
At these temps., bacterial action and yeast autolysis are
minimized.  I also "lager" ales which must be kept longer term.  I
don't bother filtering dark lagers, Wits (and other belgians) or
English ales.  I do filter pale and amber lagers (including pale
bocks) and American pale ales, particularly if they are to be
consumed at parties.  These are all chilled prior to filtering to
bring out the chill haze.  If this is not done, chill haze is not
removed.  I then either drink the beer as quickly as possible or
keep it very cold. 

	Jim Cave Vancouver, B.C. Canada "Drink only beer" 

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 18:47:49 -0600
From: Brian R Seay </G=Brian/I=R/S=Seay/O=MAC/PRMD=ALCATEL/ADMD=TELEMAIL/C=US/ at alcatel.aud.alcatel.com>
Subject: EKU-28


                       Subject:                               Time:6:48 PM
  OFFICE MEMO          EKU-28                                 Date:12/9/93
before my curiosity makes me waste eleven bucks, has ANYONE out there
 ENJOYED EKU-28?  In HBD 580, it was referred to as "vile".



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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 93 18:26:15 PST
From: Tom Hamilton <tlh at ISI.EDU>
Subject: Iodophor / rinsing


Hi,

does anyone know how long iodophor will retain it's sanitizing
abilities after being diluted in water? Does it evaporate out of
solution similar to chlorine? 

Also to George Fix if you're reading this: do you recommend rinsing
iodophor with cheap beer as you did with rinsing dilute chlorine? Or
will tap water rinse and/or drip dry suffice? 

cheers,

Tom Hamilton

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Date: Thu, 09 Dec 93 22:23:25 EST
From: robertw905 at aol.com
Subject: Re: #1(2) Homebrew Digest #12...

Please stop sending the Homebrew Digest.

Thank you

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Date: Thu, 9 Dec 93 8:50:31 PST
From: Mark Garetz <mgaretz at hoptech.com>
Subject: Fruit Extracts, Celebration Hopping


Matthew Evans writes:

>Subject: HopTech Fruit Extracts

>I just got the catalog today from a company
>called HopTech.  Mostly they just sell hops,
>but they did have some concentrated fruit
>extracts.  They are sold in four ounce bottles
>and contain enough "stuff" to make about 15
>gallons of fruit beer.  They don't have any
>sugars in them, so you add them to the beer
>right before bottling.  Anyone ever heard of
>this stuff or tried it yet.  It is a lot
>cheaper than the real fruit itself, so it would
>be a good cost savings, but the question is,
>will it be good to taste?

In the interests of HBD protocol, I will let others comment
on how these extracts taste.  I just wanted to clear
up Matthew's quantities.

Our Peach and Raspberry come in 4 oz bottles.  Blueberry
Cherry and Pear come in 2 oz bottles.  With the
exception of the Cherry, they are enough to make 5 gallons,
not 15 as Matthew states.  This is at our recommended usage
levels, your mileage may vary, but so far no one has mentioned
that these were wrong (in fact, microbreweries have confirmed
that they are good levels).  The Cherry is more concentrated
and will do about 20 gallons.  All sell for the same price.

***********

Delano DuGarm writes:

>My only complaint was that it didn't have the _depth_ of 
>hop taste that Celebration has.  I'm leaning towards dry hopping 
>again, but noted a suggestion that you steep hops in a hot water 
>and add this tea at bottling time for greater flavor and aroma.  
>Any suggestions on this issue would be greatly appreciated.

Add another addition of hops at the end of the boil and let the 
wort steep with them for 20 minutes.  (If you use an immersion
chiller, it'll accomplish the same thing.)  Also, use more hops
when you dry hop.

Mark




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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1294, 12/10/93