FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  Irish Moss/Polyclar; Brewing books; Potatoes (AYLSWRTH)
  Short lived Wyeast ("Ball, Timothy B")
  Peach beer (korz)
  Pitching rates for Scotch Ales (Keith MacNeal  01-Mar-1994 1400)
  RE: African Beers ("/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/")
  tons o' trub in stout (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
  Request: All extract IPA recipes (Collin A Ames)
  More kegging questions. (Eric Wade)
  Re: BEERCAPS from C. Strickland in HBD #1361 (Greg Bishop)
  Blow off and Dry Hopping (ryan patrick harding)
  Franziskaner hefe-weisse ("Steven W. Smith")
  Hopping questions (Paul Beard)
  Mail Order in the Great White North (jloewen)
  Stuck Barley wine survives. (djt2)
  GINGER BEER & BULK SUPPLIES (ususawgb)
  I figured out my mistake (Bob Jones)
  Brewer's Resource News ("Palmer.John")
  SNPA (Richard Nantel)
  Hopping Scotch Ale (Keith A. MacNeal HLO1-1/T09 DTN 225-6171  02-Mar-1994 1102)
  Homebrew in Germany (Daren Stotler)
  BOSTON BREWING FESTIVAL (JIM MCNUTT)
  Wit mash (Ulick Stafford)
  McFarland (korz)
  Potato (e) (Scott Odell)
  canceling posts (Bob Jones)
  Brewers Resource (Maribeth_Raines)
  Blow-Off Tubes (Jack St Clair)
  BJCP exam in Durham, NC (MIKE LELIVELT)
  Question about shelf life (Phil Hyde - Electrical Engineering)
  Posting HBD Reader to SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU (STAUFFER_ERIC_B)
  cancel (Stephen B. Hudak III)
  Brewers Resource ("Anton Verhulst")
  More Info on Brewers Resource ("Palmer.John")
  More NO-WELD Boiler ("Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616")
  beginning books (Bryan L. Gros)
  Gott modifications (Domenick Venezia)
  Recipe for Red Hook ESB?? ("jphughes")
  Re: Racking Woes (spigots on carboys) (Joel Birkeland)


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For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu



----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 1 Mar 94 13:26:31 EST
From: AYLSWRTH at MANVM2.VNET.IBM.COM
Subject: Irish Moss/Polyclar; Brewing books; Potatoes

All of my previous batches have been (very) dark ales, so I have
never concerned myself with chill haze.  However, I am considering
brewing some pale ales and have a couple questions.  First of all,
I don't want to use gelatin, or any animal-based product, out of
deference to my wife who is a vegetarian (mind you, she claims
that anchovies are vegetables, but I still try to look out for
her :-) ).  I know that some/many people use Irish Moss, which I
believe is seaweed, during the boil.  How effective is this?
Also, what is Polyclar - I have seen many references to this, but
have no idea what it is made from.  If it is not an animal product,
is it generally considered more or less effective than Irish Moss?

- ------

As for Ron Dwelle's potatoe question - I once had a Russian beer
that supposedly had some potatoes in it.  It was pretty bad stuff,
IMHO.  On the other hand, I didn't care for my first wheat beer
either, and while it still isn't my favorite style, I have
certainly had some that I found quite drinkable.  I will be
interested to hear what others with more experience have to say
on the subject.

- -----

Finally, for my $.02 on brewing books for amateurs, I think it is
a great idea.  For myself, I got into brewing entirely due to the
mystique of making my own beers - I was not originally expecting
to be able to make better beers than I could buy.  However, when
my first batch (Miller's Beginner's Brown Ale) turned out to be one
of the best beers I'd ever had, I was hooked.  Miller also quickly
got me interested in the science behind brewing, but that is not
surprising since I am of a technical bent anyway.  I can certainly
understand where even Mr. "Relax,Don't Worry" Papazian can be a
little off-putting to those not interested in the science of brewing,
and we can all only benefit from having more people interested in
beer making.  I am amazed at the ignorance of most people when it
comes to beer making, and have certainly had experiences similar to
the ones mentioned by Mark Stevens.  Recently, the week after a party
where I had brought some homebrew, several people in my department
at work caught a flu virus (including myself).  Despite the fact
that all of us were sick at different times, and well more than 72
hours after the party, and that people who were not at the party
or did not drink the beer caught the same flu, one person became
convinced that it was the beer - even though she could not explain
any of the above or why I had not gotten sick on that beer before
or since!  Anyway, what I am getting at is that I agree that getting
more people interested in brewing is the best way to educate more
people about beer - and that brewing "the absolutely best" beer,
a serious goal of mine, does not have to be everyone's goal in
this hobby.  I want to wish Jonathan good luck with his book, I look
forward to seeing it in the stores, and join those urging Laura to
consider writing a beginner's book as well.  The more the better,
IMHO.



Thomas Aylesworth
Dept. PX8/Space Processor Software Engineering
Federal Systems Company, Manassas, VA
- --------------------------------------------------------------------
Internet: aylswrth at manvm2.vnet.ibm.com  |  PROFS: AYLSWRTH at MANVM2
Phone:    (703) 367-6171                |  T/L:   725-6171


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Date: Tue, 01 Mar 94 13:24:00 est
From: "Ball, Timothy B" <ballti at uh2372p03.daytonoh.NCR.COM>
Subject: Short lived Wyeast


>Last winter (1993) I purchased a package of WYeast American Lager Yeast
>(dated 1 January). I never got around to using it before the basement 
warmed
>up to ale temperatures, so it remained at the back of the fridge. Last 
month
>I decided to see if it was still viable. Recalling past posts that 
refrigerated
>yeast could last a few months, I had low expectations. Nevertheless, within 
a
>week of popping the package, it had swollen to full size. The solution is 
now
>bubbling away in a starter.

>Moral: some liquid yeast can survive 13 months under refrigerated 
conditions.

I had some refrigerated Wyeast  London only 3 months old (from mfg date) 
that would not swell up at all.

Moral: Don't be moral


Tim



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Date: Tue, 1 Mar 94 12:12 CST
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: Peach beer

I've been cleaning up some old HBD files and ran across my mention
of Brian and Linda North's, award-winning Peach Wheat beer.  In my
post, I said that I had no details on the beer.  Well, since then,
I did get one more piece of info on the beer:  they used a juicer
to get peach juice and added that to a wheat beer!
Al.

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Date: Tue, 1 Mar 94 14:17:06 EST
From: Keith MacNeal 01-Mar-1994 1400 <macneal at pate.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Pitching rates for Scotch Ales

I just finished reading Noonan's "Scotch Ale" from the beer styles series.  In 
it he says that pitching rate is a function of original gravity of the wort.  
High gravity brews require up to 1 gallon of yeast starter for a 5 gallon 
batch!  There is one mention that high gravity starters are needed for high 
gravity worts, but this is only mentioned once and early on in the book (no 
mention of SG of the starter in the recipe section).  Since almost 20% of the 
batch size will be the starter, it makes sense to me that the starter gravity 
should be close to the wort gravity.  Now this flies in the face of 
conventional wisdom of low gravity (1.020) starters.  Can anybody provide any 
insight to this?

By the way, I really liked the book.  It gives a nice historical view of the 
style, brewing techniques, and commercial examples.  For anyone heading to 
Scotland there is a good sized pub listing for Edinburgh included as well as 
information on all of the breweries still in operation in Scotland.  Extract, 
partial mash, and all grain recipes are given for each type of Scottish and 
Scotch Ale.  Quantities are given for 5 gallon and 1 barrel batch sizes.  

The all grain recipes for Scotch Ale (the high gravity brew) are tailored to
"normal sized" mashing equipment (i.e. the picnic coolers, Zapap lauter tuns,
etc.).  This is done by doing a double mash.  One mash is done with the first
runnings going to the boiling kettle and the second runnings going to a
holding tank.  Another mash is done with the first runnings going to the
boiling kettle and the second runnings going to the holding tank.  The boiling
kettle is then boiled and hopped to produce the Scotch Ale.  The wort is
removed from the boiling kettle, but the hops are left behind and the second
runnings are added to the boiling kettle and boiled to make a Twopenny Ale. 

Interesting tidbit:  "True" Scotch Ales do not use crystal malt or sugar 
adjuncts (molasses, brown sugar, treacle, etc.) for the caramel flavor.  A
portion of the first runnings are brought to a boil in the boiling kettle
before the balance of the runnings are added.  This causes the wort to
caramelize a bit in the kettle. 

Keith MacNeal
Digital Equipment Corp.
Hudson, MA

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Date: Tue, 1 Mar 1994 13:45:00 EST
From: "/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/" at mr.cber.fda.gov
Subject: RE: African Beers

  Mike Sheridan writes in HBD #1361:
  
     >I was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Kenya (any other RPCVs out there???),
     >and I had several opportunities to drink stuff called miritini.  It was
     >a thick mead with a good head of beeswax and bee bits.
  
  I'm unfamiliar with this mead, but the name "miritini" could be the Kenyan
  equivalent of the word "metheglin", which is often used as a synonym for
  honey wines in general. Most African meads use honey from wild nests or
  honey produced in traditional barrel-hives, so a lot of bee parts and
  pollen are usually present. This is beneficial because pollen provides
  nitrogen and nutrients for yeast growth, and the wax on the surface of the
  fermenting mead helps keep the fermentation anaerobic.
  
  That business about the baobab pod is pretty fascinating. I'd love to try
  the stuff sometime.
  
     >There's also an Ethiopian mead called tech ("ch" as in "cheese") that's
     >spiced with a vaguely fenugreekish (?) herb.
  
  Ah, now this one I'm familiar with. There's even a commercial version
  available here in the states (can't recall the brand name right offhand).
  It's pale yellow, very sweet, and quite strong. The spelling I've seen for
  it is "tej", but the pronunciation is the same.
  
  In Ethiopia, honey is very expensive, so much of the homebrewed tej is made
  with a little honey and a lot of sugar. A natural food coloring is added
  to enhance the yellow color. The amount of honey used in the tej determines
  its value as a bartering medium in the local economy.
  
  Hops are often added, as is ginger and other spices, and the fermentation
  pot is held over a wood fire prior to use to impart a smoky flavor to the
  finished product.
  
  In earlier days, a handful of roasted barley was sometimes added to tej,
  along with scraps of various woods and barks, but these practices have
  largely been discontinued.
  
     >Anyone with expertise, experience, or ideas on African homebrewing,
     >please post!  Let's leave out chang'aa (known in Boston as white
     >lightning) and busaa (a corn mash fermented for 3-6 days, get a group
     >of men and 4 foot long straws and suck out the alcohol.  It's sort of
     >nasty), but I think it'd be fun to start an African thread in the HBD.
  
  I agree. African indigenous beers have been a prime interest of mine for
  awhile. Africans have a long and extensive history of brewing. I fail to
  understand why there aren't more African-American homebrewers, especially
  considering the emphasis placed on African culture and traditions in
  general by African-Americans.
  
  BTW, the next special issue of Zymurgy (due out in Fall '94) will highlight
  indigenous beers of the world and the special ingredients used to brew
  them, so those of us interested in the subject have something to look
  forward to.
  
  Bill Ridgely (Brewer, Patriot, Bicyclist)                    __o
  ridgely at a1.cber.fda.gov                                     -\<,
  ridgely at cber.cber.fda.gov                                ...O/ O...
  


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Date: Tue, 1 Mar 1994 14:34 EST
From: CSS2 at OAS.PSU.EDU (SPEAKER.CURTIS)
Subject: tons o' trub in stout

Hi there:  A question for all of you brewers with more experience than me.  I
recently brewed up a batch of oatmeal stout and have a very large amount (at
last glance, about 1.5") of trub in the bottom of my primary.  I used:

3.3# M & F Sout Kit (hopped syrup + yeast)
2# Laglander amber DME
0.5# crystal malt (40L)
0.5# black patent
0.5# roasted barley
1# steel cut oats
0.5 oz fuggles (boil - 15 min)
1.0 oz. Kent Goldings (finish)
yeast from kit

Everything looks fine except for the trub - It can't be yeast; it's only been
in the primary for a day and a half.  I plan on racking to the secondary in
another day or two.  I'm not worried (and I'm having a homebrew), but I'm just
curious where all the trub could have come from.  I steeped the grains in 2
gal. cold water which was slowly brought to a boil; I then removed the sparge
bag with the grains and discarded them.  Could it have come from the steel cut
oats?  It's the only grain that seems to be out of the ordinary.
Any input on this phenomena would be appreciated.  Please email me directly at
css2 at oas.psu.edu     Thanks     Curt

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Date: 01 Mar 94 16:03:45 CST
From: Collin A Ames <C-AMES at vm1.spcs.umn.edu>
Subject: Request: All extract IPA recipes

Hey there all!
After much discussion with homebrewers (thank you all for your responses,
btw.  Sorry I didn't respond to all individually!) after my post on modify
a nice smooth bock into something with more hop bite, it was recommended that
I try an IPA.  Unfortunately, in this world of die-hard homebrewers, there
seems to be a lack of extract recipes for IPA.  Now, I'm willing to steep a
few grains for added character and flavor, but I stay away from those tuns!
So, if you have a nice extract recipe for IPA hanging around, please send it
to me directly!

Oh, and on the steeping the grains bit...I've decided that a high-temp (over
170 degrees) soak with these grains is not a bad idea.  Sure, tannins creep
into the wort, but who's afraid of a little tannin?  In fact, it adds a nice
bitterness which I and a few others appreciate in a British style ale.  OK,
just my opinion, but it does compliment a strong hop-type ale.

Brew on!
Collin Ames
c-ames at vm1.spcs.umn.edu

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Date: Tue, 1 Mar 1994 16:10:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Wade <ericwade at CLASS.ORG>
Subject: More kegging questions.

Let me start with loads of encouragement for the parties involved in the
creation of the kegging FAQ.  Your work will be appreciated!  Until then...

I was looking at kegging_info at from the archives.  The author
suggestions priming (1/2 cup:5 gallons) AND pressurizing the keg to 15-16
lbs.  I don't presurize my bottles when I prime, why should I presurize
the keg.  Won't this result in overcarbonation?  Also, what should my
dispensing pressure be for a pale ale.  I realize that this must be a FAQ,
but since there ain't a file yet, thanks for your patience and your replies.

=Eric



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Date: Tue, 1 Mar 94 19:36:48 PST
From: bishop at magic.geol.ucsb.edu (Greg Bishop)
Subject: Re: BEERCAPS from C. Strickland in HBD #1361

Chris Strickland wrote,

>I use the garden variety beercaps, $2 a gross.  I boil my before using, is
>this necessary, or even harmful?  I haven't seen anything on preparing caps,
>in Miller, FAQ's, Papazan, etc.  I'm just leary of using unboiled caps for
>fear of bateria contamination.  Sheesh, I'll have to have 2 homebrew's to
>relax on this one.
>- -- 

I would just soak beercaps in a room temperature solution of unfragranced
chlorine bleach (like you use for laundry) with a concentration of 1/2 tsp.
bleach per gallon of water.  Let the caps soak for at least 15 minutes. 
Boiling is likely to damage the rubber on the cap and therefore lessen the
integrity of the seal that is formed.

 .................................................................

- ---------------------
Greg Bishop
Internet: bishop at magic.geol.ucsb.edu
(805) 685-4921


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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 00:37:27 -0500
From: ryan patrick harding <uk03131 at mik.uky.edu>
Subject: Blow off and Dry Hopping

	Hello, I have fallen behind in my readings but I vaguely
remember someting about blow offs. This may be a stupid question
but what do you do with the other end of the tube. Do you leave 
it in a pan , what about air contaming the wort? I just got a class
carboy and wanted to give it a try. 
	One more question. I was going to dry hop my bitter and since I 
only have the one carboy I thought about stuffing the the hops in after 
primary ferm. Would this cause problems doing this ? What do I lose if 
anything ? Do I have to rack when adding hops?

Keep drinking

ryan harding
 

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Date: 02 Mar 1994 02:36:11 -0700 (MST)
From: "Steven W. Smith" <SMITH_S at gc.maricopa.edu>
Subject: Franziskaner hefe-weisse

  I bought a bottle of Franziskaner Hefe-Weisse, a bottle-conditioned wheat 
beer from Spaten-Brau, Munich ($1.79).  It's tasty, refreshing, potent, and 
it's got a _nice_ layer of yeast.
  Has anyone happily made a starter of the tasty crud from this beer? It is a 
lager, yes?  I would have tried it myself, but I ate the poor critters before 
they had a chance to reproduce.
  (dare I ask?)  Got a reasonable facsimile extract-based recipe for this beer?
I've got to choose my final batch before summer hits here in the Great 
Stinking Desert (tm). TAHBIA, Steve.
  _,_/|
  \o.O;   Steven W. Smith, Programmer/Analyst
 =(___)=  Glendale Community College, Glendale Az. USA
    U     smith_s at gc.maricopa.edu
          Mah'-ee huv'-erk-raft iz fuhl ov ee'-ulz

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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 1994 09:06:58 -0500
From: paul.beard at gatekeeper.mis.tridom.com (Paul Beard)
Subject: Hopping questions

Made my third batch, my first non-kit (I used my own hops with unhopped
extract cans).

I did not enjoy it as much, because the hop pellets dissolved enough to
seep out of the hop sacks (I was sold these with the hops, but did I need
them?) and when I tried to pour off the wort into my carboy, the strainer
clogged very quickly, making my 1 minute finishing boil turn into a several
minute steeping instead.

Should I use leaf/flower hops? Any other straining techniques, prior to
pouring it off?

Some success with a scavenged yeast specimen that I started with the warm
wort and added the morning after; thanks to all who suggested techniques.

Answers can be e-mailed if this seems too newbie-ish for public discussion.

- --
Paul Beard
AT&T Tridom, 840 Franklin Court, Marietta, GA 30067
404 514-3798 * FAX: 404 429-5419 * tridom!paul.beard/beardp at tridom.com



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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 1994 09:12:26 -0600 (CST)
From: jloewen at CC.UManitoba.CA
Subject: Mail Order in the Great White North

Calling all Canadians!
   Well,  I've been brewing off and on now for about 8 years... on for a 
solid 4 years since discovering the HBD.  I think my techniques & equipment
have evolved to the point now where I can honestly blame my lack of EXCELLENT!
brews to the less than sub-standard ingredients I'm forced to purchase here 
in the 'Peg.  I think my brews are mostly Great, but I think they could be 
far better if I didn't have to deal with hop plugs wrapped in tinfoil, pellets 
pulverized to dust and stored in generic plastic bags.  Even the pellets in O2 
barrier bags that one shop has, have been stored out on the shelf so long they 
have very little aroma.  I've even bought grain that smelled of 'Ziplock' 
after being crushed. I can't even get wyeast reliably.  The one place that 
will actually order it for me, winds up involving me in a game of cat and 
mouse trying to get to the store at the same instant it shows up, or it's 
taken to the owners home....  they have no refrigeration at the store.

   So please, can some kind soul send me the phone #/address of a reputable
supplier.  Thanks for your time!  

- --jj 


 GeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeek
 Ge GAT -d+(---) -p+ c++ l u+ e m* s n- h(-)--- f? g+(-) w+++ t+ r- y+(**) ek
 GeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeekGeek

   --== Jarrod J. Loewen    Systems Operator    University of Manitoba ==--

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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 10:21:57 -0500
From: djt2 at po.cwru.edu
Subject: Stuck Barley wine survives.

I posted Tuesday that my Barley wine with o.g. 1.110 was stuck, and I got
several Email responses that folks had had similar problems.

Two people advised using larger starters, though the 16 oz I used has
always been enough before for "normal" beers.

As an update, the brew started perking away at 72 hours after pitching, and
now has a beautiful thick krausen. I still don't like seeing it st there
silent for three days.

It seems that it would be smart to start such a high o.g. beer with more
yeast, maybe the slurry from 1/2 gallon or more starter. Maybe this would
be a good time to try starting a batch on top of the spent yeast from an
earlier batch, or using acid-washed yeast as has been discussed here
recently. 

thanks all,

dennis



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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 94 10:38:06 EST
From: ususawgb at ibmmail.COM
Subject: GINGER BEER & BULK SUPPLIES                                      

- ----------------------- Mail item text follows ---------------

To: INTERNET--IBMMAIL

FROM: Mike Rogerson      PHONE: 747-3364       ID:MIKER
Subject: GINGER BEER & BULK SUPPLIES
Greetings all; I have two questions.
1)  About 3 weeks ago I started a Ginger Beer. OG: 1.042.
    It bubbled for about 2 days then stopped, I took a reading
    after a week and it was reading 1.030.  I racked to the
    secondary and after 2 weeks it is still reading 1.030.  Is
    this common for Ginger Beer or do I have a stuck ferment?
    ( I tried adding yeast hulls as suggested by Papazian but
    no dice ).  Any guidance would be helpful since I don't want
    to bottle two cases of grenades.
2)  I'm looking for a supplier of Bulk DME. Several of my co-workers
    brew and we figure it would be of great savings to buy a 50 lb
    bag of DME versus all the 3 lb bags we get from the local shop.
    If anyone has any contacts we'd appreciate it.
TIA - Direct mail if possible.
Mike R. a.k.a Cmdr. OZ
USUSAWNB at IBMMAIL.COM

           A Hit & Run on the Information-Superhighway

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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 1994 07:52:56 +0800
From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones)
Subject: I figured out my mistake

About my question on canceling an article, I figured out my error. You must 
send the cancel message to "homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com" not the post 
address.

I'm slow but sure.........

Bob Jones
bjones at novax.llnl.gov



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Date: 2 Mar 1994 07:54:45 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Brewer's Resource News

Muppet News Flash:
(LA) Brewers Resource is moving to another building. A new warehouse or
something. Phone numbers will remain the same, to the best of my knowledge. (I
listened to their answering machine message) The move should be complete later
this week. (800) 827-3983
 -JP

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Date: 02 Mar 94 11:04:50 EST
From: Richard Nantel <72704.3003 at CompuServe.COM>
Subject: SNPA

I continue to receive requests for the Sierra Nevada pale ale I recently 
brewed. Unfortunately, the number of requests is greater than I can handle 
through private email. I already posted the recipe in HBD and would rather 
not use up valuable bandwidth reposting. To all those who asked, the recipe 
appeared in HB1358 (25 Feb.). Hope this helps.

Richard Nantel
Montreal, Quebec, Canada 

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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 11:08:08 EST
From: Keith A. MacNeal HLO1-1/T09 DTN 225-6171 02-Mar-1994 1102 <macneal at pate.enet.dec.com>
Subject: Hopping Scotch Ale

After reading Noonan's book, I am a little confused about hopping 
Scotch/Scottish ales.  I realize that alot of hops are used to balance the 
high gravity/malt, but the numbers in the recipes seem to be very high.  For 
instance, BU (bittering units, HBU I think -- or maybe its IBU, he's not real 
clear here) for a 140 Shilling Wee Heavy is given as 60.  That would mean 6
oz. of 10% AA hops or 12 oz. of 5% AA hops if I am interpreting this
correctly.  Hop utilization for this brew is given as 20%. 

Am I interpreting this correctly? 

Keith MacNeal
Digital Equipment Corp.
Hudson, MA

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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 11:30:22 EST
From: dstotler at cygnus.PPPL.GOV (Daren Stotler)
Subject: Homebrew in Germany


   I have a colleague in Germany who is anxious to learn more about
homebrewing. I plan to send him a copy of Papazian's book, but he
will need to be able to obtain supplies locally. Can anyone comment
on the availability of equipment & ingredients in his area? He lives
in Aachen, on the western edge of Germany where it meets with Belgium
and the Netherlands (yes, I envy him at times).
                           TIA,
                             Daren Stotler
                             dstotler at pppl.gov

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Date:        Wed, 02 Mar 94 11:27:59 EST
From: JIM MCNUTT <INJM%MCGILLB.BITNET at VM1.MCGILL.CA>
Subject: BOSTON BREWING FESTIVAL

Could anyone give me information about the Boston Brewing Festival
which I understand will be held in the Boston World Trade Centre
on 14 May.  Please send email directly to me: INJM at MUSICB.MCGILL.CA

Thanks
Jim McNutt
Montreal

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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 11:32:06 EST
From: ulick at augustine.helios.nd.edu (Ulick Stafford)
Subject: Wit mash

I'm finally caught up on hbd's, and want to relate a Wit story.  I posted
a request for information regarding the Hoegarden mashing schedule, but all
I know is that it involes 45% unmalted wheat, 5%unmalted oats, and 50%
green malt, and takes 17 hours and doesn't involves decoction ... and that no
modern brewer of wit would consider it and adds amylase (Belgian brewers are
so unburdened by such 'adjuncts').  So I brewed as follows.  I got 4.5 lb
of flaked wheat from a bulk food store.  It was American red winter wheat,
but I didn't expect to find yellow spring week so resorted to it.  Added
0.5 lb flaked oats, and made a big pot of porridge with 10 qt of water.
I boiled for a few minutes, but happy with the gelatinanization and worried
about burning I turned off the heat.  I ground 5 lb of DeWolf-Cosyn's Pilsener
malt and doughed it into 6 qt of cold water.  After 10 minutes I added the
porridge whose temperature had dropped to around 170, but the combined temp
was around 135-140.  Worried about losing my proteolyic enzymes I hastily
added 4 qts of cold water, whish thinned the mash completely and dropped 
the temperature to 111.  I rested here for a while and then pulled as much 
thick mash as I could and heated to saccarification range and rested for 15
minutes, much like a decoction but returned it at 160.  The combined
temperature rose to 128.  I did a protein rest for 20 minutes before repeating
and raising the temp to 140.  I then did a hasty pull, rose to 160 and returned
this to end up with a mash temperature of 145.  I then stirred in 2 heaped
teaspoons of amylase that I had had in the fridge for ages and went shopping
for 1.5 hours and when I returned the temp was 140 and the iodine test, that I
usually never use was perfect!  I then heated to 160 for a few minutes and 
on to 170 for mashout.

The sparge was difficult, and I needed to cut the bed with a knife several
times to keep up flows.  I boiled for 90 minutes with 25 g of Negget (12.8%)
in the boil.  At the end I added old orange peel I'd been collecting.
A handfull of coriander (ground in a maltmill) and about 0.5 oz of Durkee
orange flavoring.  I am sure I have all this wrong.  I could not find Curacoa
peel, and think maybe I should have used Cardamon instead of Coriander, and
think that the orange flavoring may overwhelm.

Yeast was also tricky.  I diluted to 10-11 B and had nearly 8 gallon of wort
(extract was better that allowed for - I never expected complete starch 
conversion) and pitched the yeast which was cultured hastily the previous day
from a Paasbier whose name I forget, but it had a cute cartoon on the
bottle.  I had most of the wort in a plastic bucket, with the remainder in
a gallon jug.  I put most of the starter in the bucket with a little in the
jug.  However after 40 hours, nada, so I added 3 tablespoon of Wyeast german
ale slurry to the bucket.  This may well have been unecessary as the jug
was foaming today (60 hours after pitching) too.  I'll report how it turns
out.

Other comments re digest.  There is no greater waste of bandwidth than 
people complaining about a waste of bandwidth.  Complain by email.  The 
personal touch is more effective and bandwidth is saved.  I think that the idea
of vote proposed by Andrew Patrick is ridiculous.  Let's keep such tyranny
of the majority out.  I would boycott any vote and post as I see fit subject
to common sense and email feedback.  

Re cookbook.  Some of the first recipes I saw were in a book called the
Farmhouse Cookbook (or simil.), a British publication in their chapter on
brewing and winemaking.  To say the recipes were basic would be an understate-
ment.  Without impressing on people some rudimentary microbiology, they 
will brew crap beer, which will be a greater deterrent that some 'technoweenie'
talk.  Personally, I like to relax, don't worry, start syphons by sucking, I
never sterilise bottle caps, but I also go nowhere without my thermometer
and hydrometer.  While beer can be brewed without them, just as yogurt can
be made without a yogurt maker for instance, the correct tools make the job
better and easier.  If those of you think the book can be written and 
perform your requirements - teach people to consistently brew good beer
without any science, go ahead.  I personally doubt it, and think the effort
should be put into taking the fear out of basic science.  Just MHO.
__________________________________________________________________________
 'Heineken!?! ... F#$% that s at &* ...  | Ulick Stafford, Dept of Chem. Eng.  
    Pabst Blue Ribbon!'               | Notre Dame IN 46556
                                      |    ulick at darwin.cc.nd.edu   




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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 10:18 CST
From: korz at iepubj.att.com
Subject: McFarland

Has anyone ever tasted McFarland Golden Fire or McFarland Red Beer?
The Red was okay, but the Golden Fire, I would say, was roughly in the
Belgian Abbey Ale style.  A bit weaker in both nose and palate, but
resembling St. Sebastians (sp?) Abbey (Crock) Ale.  Both beers tasted
very Belgian.  Now here are the kickers:

1. Jackson says they are bottom fermented.

2. they are brewed in Italy!

3. they are brewed by Birra Dreher!

Yes, that's the brewery founded by Anton Dreher, originator of the Vienna
style of beer.  I'll bet that Anton Dreher is spinning in his grave from
the levels of higher alcohols and wacky esters in these beers.  Ironic...

Al.

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Date:         Wed, 2 Mar 94  11:45:40 EST
From: Scott Odell <MAH0C01 at SIVM.SI.EDU>
Subject:      Potato (e)


On Mon, 28 Feb 94, Ron Dwelle asked about making a potato beer...
      >A friend of mine just got 100 pounds of potatos that were in
      >winter storage, with the suggestion to use them fast before they
      >go bad. He might just take them to Salvation Army kitchen, but
      >they're mine if I can figure out a way to use them. My guess is
      >that there's starch in them there spuds.

      >Anybody have extraction method/direction? (Please note that my
      >facilities are limited--a 5 gallon grain mash is my max.)
      >Anybody have a receipe for a potato beer?......

      I raised a similar question a month or so back after seeing a
      report that the Wyncoop Brewery in Denver had made an "excellent
      Potato Pilsner" - but nobody took the bait.  Perhaps someone in
      Denver knows someone at Wyncoop well enough to ask?

      Scott Odell:  mah0c01 at sivm.si.edu

- ------------------------------


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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 1994 07:38:33 +0800
From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones)
Subject: canceling posts

Well I recently sent by accident a post to the digest. I realized my error 
and sent another message as per the note on canceling a post. I included the 
article number in the body of the post. All seemed well. However the post 
and the cancelation post both showed up in the digest. Does canceling work??

Hope you all thought the post was interesting, sure wasn't beer related. At 
least my post was accidental ;->

[EDITOR NOTE: PLEASE SEND CANCEL REQUESTS TO homebrew-request. DO NOT
SEND THEM TO homebrew, OR THEY WILL BE PUBLISHED!!]

Bob Jones
bjones at novax.llnl.gov



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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 09:02:50 PST
From: raines at radonc.ucla.edu (Maribeth_Raines)
Subject: Brewers Resource

For those of you wondering about Brewers Resource.  Yes, they were hit 
by the earthquake and had to shut down for a few days to replace their 
shelving and clean up.  No major damage.  In addition to the quake, 
they have decided to relocate to Thousand Oaks.  This became a reality 
last weekend 2/26.  There's enough space there to accomodate a walk-in 
shop.  We are hoping to offer brewing and yeast culturing classes to 
those in the Souther Cal. area.  Things were supposed to be up and 
running this week, but Jeff's wife was due to deliver their first baby 
on March 1st so its hard to tell whats going on.  I also have been 
unable to get through to Brewers Resource, but I'm working on at least 
getting his answering machine hooked up.  I regret any inconvenience 
brought about by our temporary closure.  We are working on a number of 
new products and have at least 10 new yeast strains in development so 
keep in touch.  (Anyone interested in updating the Brewtek yeasts in 
the yeast faq, please e-mail me privately and I'll send you the info 
on the new strains.)

Maribeth (MB) Raines

Yes, I am affiliated with Brewers Resource, I serve as consultant in 
research and development.  I don't do this for the money, I do it 
because I enjoy it! Although it does support my hombrewing habit. 

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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 09:54:08 PST
From: Jack St Clair <Jack_St_Clair at ccm.hf.intel.com>
Subject: Blow-Off Tubes


Text item: Text_1

     I have seen many posts lately regarding the use of blow-off tubes 
     with the terminating end in a bucket of chlorine solution and the 
     fear of getting 'something' sucked into the brew.  First of all, 
     the bleach solution should be a weak solution (it is only used to 
     kill the beasties).  Secondly, there is never a moment during the 
     fermentation process when a vacuum is created to provide a 
     'sucking' action.  There is always a positive pressure in the 
     carboy, that's why we see bubbles coming out.  
     
     So, put your blow-off tube in bucket of bleach, sit back, have a 
     home brew, don't worry, and watch the bubbles.
     
     Jack St.Clair
     Portland, OR
     Jack_St_Clair at ccm.co.intel.com

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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 1994 13:32:09 -0500 (EST)
From: MIKE LELIVELT <MJL at UNCVX1.OIT.UNC.EDU>
Subject: BJCP exam in Durham, NC

Is there anyone interested in taking the BJCP in Durham, NC anytime inbetween
July and October of 1994?  Our club, TRUB, is planning on administering the
exam and are looking for additional participants.

MIKE LELIVELT  mjl at uncvx1.oit.unc.edu

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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 1994 12:57:44 -0600 (CST)
From: Phil Hyde - Electrical Engineering <ST2E5 at Jetson.UH.EDU>
Subject: Question about shelf life

Hi everyone,


I've got some oatmeal stout that I brewed a few months ago,
and haven't got around to drinking it all yet (cardinal sin,
eh???).  Anyways, I'm wondering how long the stuff will keep.
I had a bottle last night, and it tasted kind of gritty.
Also, it had enormous head.  Any comments are appreciated.



Phil
st2e5 at jetson.uh.edu

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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 1994 19:25:38 +0000 (GMT)
From: STAUFFER_ERIC_B at Lilly.com
Subject: Posting HBD Reader to SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU

I'm was quite amazed to see almost twenty request for the HBD Reader. What I
would like to do is to post it to SIERRA.STANFORD.EDU and to Compuserve for
people to download. Also I suppose I could post the UENCODED version to HBD.
What would be the best way to distribute??

Cheers,
  Eric 

(ebs at i.need.a.wheat.beer.com)



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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 1994 14:41:32 -1812
From: shudak at itsmail1.hamilton.edu (Stephen B. Hudak III)
Subject: cancel

cancel


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Date: Wed, 02 Mar 94 11:34:25 -0500
From: "Anton Verhulst" <verhulst at decvax.dec.com>
Subject: Brewers Resource



>I've been trying to reach the Brewer's Resource in Woodland Hills, CA without
>success.  Does anyone know if they're out of business now.

They, apparently, are alive and well.  I received an order from them
one week ago.

- --Tony Verhulst

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Date: 2 Mar 1994 12:05:00 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: More Info on Brewers Resource

Update to earlier post, (I threw away my receipt so I couldn't cancel...)

Brewer's Resource has moved to Camarillo CA, up the road a bit.
They are opening a "Brewer's Superstore", he said. It will now have Walk-in as
well as Mail order service. The walk-in service will be available as of April
1, he thinks, when the city paperwork gets finished, and they plan to resume
mail order shipping on Monday (3/7). New newsletters and catalogs will be
mailed in the near future.

New Info line is (805) 445-4100, the 800# remains the same, at 827-3983. (but,
they are having a glitch, so give them a couple days)

New address is 
Brewer's Resource
409 Calle San Pablo #104
Camarillo, CA 93010

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Date:     Wed, 2 Mar 94 15:01:29 EST
From: "Glen A. Wagnecz, X6616" <wagnecz at PICA.ARMY.MIL>
Subject:  More NO-WELD Boiler

Jeremy Ballard Bergsman <jeremybb at leland.stanford.edu> wrote to me
regarding my article on a NO-WELD boiler.  I thought my answers would
be of interest to others, so I posted my response:

>Glen,

I was excited to read your post, as this is what I am trying to do.  My main
problem, actually is obtaining the kegs for <$70.  Anyway, I didn't quite
understand part of your process.

1) you seem to have (1/4" minus the wall thickness of the keg) of threads
onto which to screw the ball valve.

2) isn't there a problem with the taper on the threads?  It would seem that 
once the nut is on tightly, the threads left would be to small to join
tightly with the ball valve.  

Are questions 1+2 the result of a complete misunderstanding on my part?

3) what forms the seal?  The modified FPT/compression fitting/nut or the
ball valve or both?  Something must press up against the side pretty hard
to flatten the side of the keg and form a good seal.

I would be grateful if you could straighten me out.  Thanks.

Jeremy Bergsman

1) It does take a little doing to get the cut down nut onto the 1/2"
pipe thread of the 1/2 MPT to 1/2 female pipe adapter, due to the
taper of the fitting.  This fitting has hex nut molded into it, and
you should place this in a vise and secure.  Then thread the cut-down
flare nut on as far as it will go by hand.  Then use a wrench to turn
it the rest of the way, it will be hard.  Be careful not to split the
nut as you torque it further.  The cut down flare nut can be shortened
so that it is about 1/4" total height, too, so that it occupies less
length on the adapter and hence needs to be tightened less further to
leave the needed thread to engage the female threads ofthe ball valve.

The keg wall is fairly thin, maybe 2 mm max? (I didn't measure), so it
won't take up alot of the 1/4" (or so) available to protrude.

	I also considered the possibility of doctoring (sanding) the
threads of the nut (or the adapter) to defeat some of the effects of
the taper  in the event that I couldn't get the cut down nut on far
enough, but didn't need to.

	Teflon tape forms the seal on both the inside and the outside 
ofthe keg wall, and the fitting tightens down on this tape layer.

	I initially had a leak (1 st. time) when I leak tested this, 
but tightening once fixed this.  I figure I've got about 4-5 threads
engaged in the female of the ball valve.

		Hope this helps-

			Glen

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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 13:02:06 PST
From: bgros at sensitivity.berkeley.edu (Bryan L. Gros)
Subject: beginning books

My two cents:
Papazian's book is a good beginner book for most of us.  Not all.
The number of cookbooks geared for "make great meals in 15min" shows
that there is a need for quick and easy instructions.  We can't make
beer in 15min, but we can make extract beer in 90min.

A beginning book should have chapter one read like a recipe.  It should
say "Step 1:  make beer".  Give them a choice, light ale or dark ale,
then tell them to add extracts to two gallons of water, bring to a 
boil, add the right amount of hops, boil 60 min, then add to a bucket 
with 2 gallons of cold water.  Add dry yeast.  
This should give them 3 gallons of ale.

After they have seen how easy it is to make decent beer, then the
later chapters can present more information on improving the beer
made in the first chapter.  Tell them about hydrometers, liquid yeast,
aroma hops etc.  Tell them how to modify the first recipe for different
styles.  All grain and more technical info would not be appropriate
in this beginner book.

A book like this would be geared to certain people and would certainly 
have a place on the shelf.

                                     - Bryan


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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 1994 10:40:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at ZGI.COM>
Subject: Gott modifications

Based on someone's tip (thank you) that SportMart has 10 gal Gott coolers
for cheap ($39.95) I picked one up.  Does anyone have ideas on
incorporating a removable drilled plate or screen?  Or on replacing the
spigot?  Any suggestions for using or modifying this sucker will be 
entertained.  TIA.

What I have done so far is this.  The spigot is easily removed.  The
button on the back of the spigot pulls out with some effort.  A stopper
can be shoved into the front of the spigot to seal it there.  The inside
hole is just right for 1/4" copper tube press fit.  2-3" of 1/4" copper
tubing bent into a shallow 'S' gets the tube to the bottom of the cooler
and a copper adapter from 1/2" to 1/4" (actually 1/2" to 3/8" to 1/4") to
fit my copper manifold and soldered it to the short tube.  Using silicone
based stopcock grease makes the whole thing removable and easily
cleanable. 

But, I also want the option of a drilled plate style lauter tun.  Of course
I want it all.  

Lastly, I made some test runs for heat retention and discovered that most
of the heat loss (~3C (~5F) over 60 min) was coming through the top of the
lid.  It gets very warm while the rest of the cooler (except just around
the spigot) stays cool.  As I will rarely fill this thing to the top I cut
a circle from a 2" slab of styrofoam such that it press fits into the top
of the cooler.  With the styrofoam and the lid the heat loss is no more
than 1C (1.8F) per hour.  Use the Gott itself as the template.  Take off
the lid, Turn it upside down and press it into the styrofoam.  The edge
seal makes a neat circle in the top of the styrofoam.  Cut just inside the
circle.  Use a real sharp thin bladed knife.  Styrofoam compresses pretty
well so just roll the circle in its edge pressing down pretty hard to mush
up the first 1/2" or so, then it will make a tight press fit into the
cooler.  To remove it push down on one side until it flips sideways. 

Domenick Venezia
ZymoGenetics, Inc.
Seattle, WA
venezia at zgi.com





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Date: 2 Mar 1994 14:56:26 U
From: "jphughes" <jphughes at ingres.com>
Subject: Recipe for Red Hook ESB??

I am looking for any information on replicating the great quality and taste of
Red Hook ESB (from Seattle).  It has always been a favorite of mine and I have
tried with several of my more recent recipes to come up with a batch that
strongly resembles that of Red Hook, but have not yet found the secret.  If
anyone has any good recipes, or suggestions for me to try, I would be most
grateful.  Thanks in advance!

 -John :) :) :)
jphughes at ingres.com


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Date: Wed, 2 Mar 94 18:02:44 MST
From: birkelan at adtaz.sps.mot.com (Joel Birkeland)
Subject: Re: Racking Woes (spigots on carboys)

>Somebody asked:
>
>"Has anyone else tried puting a spigot on the side of their carboy?"
>

I have never put a spigot in the side of a carboy.  

However, when I was in college, I had several friends who made water
pipes out of beer bottles by chipping a hole in the side.  They used
a very sharp tool (diamond scriber?) and patiently chipped away at the
side of the bottle until they broke through.  Then they slowly widened
the hole until a small tube could be put through.

I have often wondered myself if this method could be adapted to putting
a spigot on a carboy.  Might be worth a try.


Joel Birkeland

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1363, 03/03/94