HOMEBREW Digest #1384 Tue 29 March 1994

Digest #1383 Digest #1385

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Got Copper Sulphate on my chiller (allison shorten)
  re:Mini Kegs (EWD1)
  Newbie help (Jack Boatman)
  RE: Indigenous Recipes ("/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/")
  Need to Protect Secondary from UV? (macdonald)
  5 Liter Mini Kegs (GNT_TOX_)
  re- perle hops (George Tempel)
  whole hops (TODD CARLSON)
  Wyeast 1056 redux (George Kavanagh O/o)
  Source of Perle rhizomes (Jim Grady)
  HDM grain any good?? (EDWARDP)
  not-so-stout stout (/R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/)
  Using plastic carboys (Mike Colyar)
  Tumbleweed Trip Review (U-E68316-Scott Wisler)
  coolers for mashing ("JSDAWS1 at PROFSSR")
  Mini-Keg question? (Theriault Kenneth M.)
  cloudy brew (RAY _ HANDER)
  homebrew request (c_whitehead)
  Plastics and Permiability (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Brewpot Cleaning, Turbinado Priming (Kirk L. Oseid)
  poles for growing hops ("Daniel Ratchen")
  Regulators for Kegging (GNT_TOX_)
  Portland Brewers Conference (Tom Lorelle)
  Re:anaerobic kegging (don)
  Vinegared beers, &c. (Ash Baker)
  Getting cut-off SS kegs (Jim Grady)
  Homebrew supply shops ("BKYLE")
  decoctions and enzymes/Red Star starters/aeration/Chimay takeover? (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Filters (b_turnbaugh)
  non alcoholic? (Zach Fresco)
  patron saint of brewers... (Thomas_Fotovich-U2347)
  Oregon Homebrew Competition (Ted Manahan)
  Teflon Coated Pots? (mrmike656)
  aerating wort (Tim Lawson)

Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 19:59:03 +1000 (EST) From: allison shorten <shorten at zeus.usq.edu.au> Subject: Got Copper Sulphate on my chiller The header basically says it all. My father-in-law, a very knowledgeable and practical bloke for a non-brewer (but he loves mine) says that this is probably the gradual result of using it in mildly acidic worts, and that I should not use it again until I get it off. He suggests soaking it in a 10% solution of hydrochloric acid. He further suggests that in future I clean it in a bicarb soda (alkaline?) solution after use. I would appreciate any advice from HBDers on this topic, as I am only a humble economist and dont know diddly about chemistry. Thanks Brett Shorten Toowoomba, Queensland,Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 2:09:34 PST From: EWD1%CRPTech%DCPP at bangate.pge.com Subject: re:Mini Kegs Hi There, I wanted to respond to the question (and subsequent discussion) regarding the "mini Keg" system. I purchased one several months ago thinking it was the solution to the worlds problems (at least my home brewing ones). The first one I got, the CO2 tap leaked by which pressurized the beer to the point that no liquid came out, just foam. I called Brew HaHa and was told to send it back and they'd replace it. I sent it back and got another which has essentially the same problem. The needle valve in the tap doesn't hold the CO2 pressure back so the beer keg just continues to get to higher and higher pressure until the CO2 cylinder is empty. Consequently, the beer is overly foamy (not good) and it takes about 3 cylinders of CO2 for each keg (also not good). Another unrelated problem was that I cannot find a local supplier of the CO2 cylinders, so I have to mail order them too. So, the end result is that my mini keg setup is in a closet gathering dust right now. Anyone who wants it, I'll give you a real good deal! Keep up the good work. Ed Davidson Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 08:29:43 EST From: Jack Boatman <c23jrb at kocrsv01.delcoelect.com> Subject: Newbie help Forgive thee ignorant newbie... I'm using a Coopers Real Ale kit (3.75# hopped malt extract syrup) plus an additional 3# Laagander light malt extractc syrup. No sugar. Everything started out fine. I had vigorous action & blow-off within 24 hrs. Temperature was about 74 F which I was concerned about, but then again, the Coopers instructions state that temperature should be kept at about 74 F or above. Blow-off was done in about another 24 hrs. Installled an S-lock. Was getting about 40 bubles/minute. Temperature about 72 F. Temperature dropped to about 68 F. and bubble rate dropped to about 1 or 2 per minute. I put together a light bulb/box arrangment and got the temperature back up to around 73 F. Bubbles now about 1 per 45 seconds. The carbouy is pretty cloudy although it looks like maybe an eighth or quareter inch of the top edge has cleared. Questions: What its a reasonable bubble rate? Should I try to keep it warm in order to keep the bubble rate up? Shouldn't it start to clear at the top and then progress to the bottom by the time it's done? How long should I wait before deciding it's done (no 0SG reading)? or doing something else (like re-racking or pitching or scrapping....) I'm trying not to panic :-) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 08:16:00 EST From: "/R=FDACB/R=A1/U=RIDGELY/O=HFM-400/TN=FTS 402-1521/FFN=Bill Ridgely/" at mr.cber.fda.gov Subject: RE: Indigenous Recipes In HBD #1382, John Norton writes: >In the last issue of Zymurgy, there was an article about indigenous >brews of the Himalayas and the Andes. I am interested in trying my >hand at the Andian recipe for "chicha," which is a corn-based brew. >... it is quite difficult to find grain corn that hasn't been treated >with a fungicide (?), especially in the city of Chicago! I've been to >health food stores, and even called a few feed stores, but all of their >corn had already been treated. Wendy and I used feed-store corn quite successfully for our early chicha experiments. We were concerned about the fungicides as well but were assured that the corn used for animal feed was untainted. It germinated without difficulty, and the chicha turned out fairly well. For the 10-gallon batch we brewed for the AHA conference, we special- ordered 50 pounds of whole-kernel, organically-grown blue corn from a Washington, DC-area health food store called Healthway. It came from Arrowhead Mills in New Mexico. I was told that Arrowhead did not deal directly with the public, but I'll try to get a phone number and post it to you privately if you want to inquire further. >Finally, has anyone else tried brewing with corn as a primary >ingredient... Or tried malting it? I'd greatly appreciate any insights >and or advice ... Corn grits used as brewing adjuncts are boiled first to break down the starches and then added to the mash. Malted whole corn can be crushed and mashed independently, or it can also be used as an adjunct. Malting is fairly simple. Just follow the directions in the Zymurgy article. The only major concern is potential molding of the soaked corn, but if you turn the corn bed once a day (we used a potato masher as a rake), the risk is minimized. Bill Ridgely (Brewer, Patriot, Bicyclist) __o ridgely at a1.cber.fda.gov -\<, ridgely at cber.cber.fda.gov ...O/ O... Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 09:03:58 EST From: macdonald at akocoa.enet.dec.com Subject: Need to Protect Secondary from UV? Is it necessary to protect the brew from UV while in secondary? I use a clear 5 gallon carboy, and generally just set the secondary on the floor in a spare bedroom which has the shades pulled, and not in the direct line of any window in any case. I customarily pull a plastic garden bag over everything, just letting the neck protrude. But in the winter when I use a heating strap to keep the ferment going ( ambient temp. of about 58 degrees requires some help for an ale fermentation) then I do not put the plastic over the carboy for fear of creating a "too-warm" mini-climate underneath the plastic ( Maybe I could put the heat-strap over the plastic?) In any case, I've got a two to three week secondary going at the moment, without any UV protection other than it being out of the drect sunlight. Should I be protecting the secondary from UV? Bruce Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 09:49 EST From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> Subject: 5 Liter Mini Kegs I took the plunge on Friday afternoon and bought me a 5 Liter mini keg setup. I paid $55.00 for 4 kegs, 4 bungs, a box of 10 cartridges and a Brew King Tap. Bottling was so much easier now that I only have 4 containers to fill instead of some 50+. The bungs are a real bitch to get all the way down. I eventually took a hammer to them and ended up slightly bending one of the kegs. We'll see how it goes. I'll give a progress report in a couple of weeks when I tap one. Andy Pastuszak Philadelphia, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 09:11:47 +0000 (U) From: George Tempel <tempel at MONMOUTH-ETDL1.ARMY.MIL> Subject: re- perle hops re: perle hops >From: pacasey at lexmark.com (Patrick Casey) >Subject: source for Perle hop rhizomes? > well, i _just_ planted my mt hood, perle, and cascade (2 each) yesterday. I got them from Freshops in Oregon 503/929-2736, and they were at least as thick as my thumbs (and much longer too!). I've no connection other than, at the moment, a happy customer. Good luck l8r... ty (george tempel, home = netromancr at aol.com) "kiss cats: the dachshund and the deer are one"--wallace stevens Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 09:58:49 EST From: carlsont at GVSU.EDU (TODD CARLSON) Subject: whole hops I brewed last friday using whole hops for the first time. They were given to me by a friend who buys hops in bulk. I asked for 1 oz of perele and 1 oz of cascade. I previously have used pellets purchased in 1 or 2 oz packages so I never had to weigh out my hops. Since the whole hops are a lot more "fluffy" than pellets, I just assumed that these large bags contained 1 oz. Midway through brewing I began to wonder if I shouldn't have weighed them to be sure. Since it is too late to weigh and too early to taste, could some experienced brewer tell me about how many cups is 1 oz of loose whole hops? I know this is an inexact way to measure but I just want to get an idea of what I brewed. My "1 oz" bags measured up to about 3 cups. I boiled 1/2 of each bag for 60 min, 1/4 for 30 min, 1/8 for 10 min, 1/16 for 5 min and 1/16 for 0 min. sleepless in grand rapids todd carlsont at gvsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 1994 10:01:46 -0500 From: George Kavanagh O/o <George.Kavanagh at omail.wang.com> Subject: Wyeast 1056 redux In RE: my query on whether 1956 was known to have trouble restarting at priming/bottling time to provide bottle carbonation. Thanks to all who provided input. I have heard from many who have had no similar problems, and a few who have. The consesus is that: 1) If you plan to store the brew in a coolish place, let the bottles sit a week or more at room temp to let the yeast get going before moving to storage. 2) Let the yeast do its thing for a coupla months. I went back to a stash of ale I had bottled last october & had given up on (i had sampled it after a few weeks & it was only slightly carbonated). Now they are just fine; wonderful in fact - flavors nicely blended and properly carbonated. -gk ( George.Kavanagh at omail.wang.com ) ====================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 10:19:46 EST From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: Source of Perle rhizomes Freshops has Perle rhizomes. Their address & phone number are: Freshops 36810 Kings Valley Highway Philomath, Oregon 97370 503.929.2736 They have the following types of rhizomes (prices vary by type): Cascade, Centennial, Chinook, Hallertauer, Hersbrucker, Kent Golding, Mt. Hood, Northern Brewer, Nugget, Perle, Saaz, Tettnanger & Willamette. They recommend Cascade, Nugget & Perle as beginner varieties. (But did I follow their advice? Nah!) Minimum order, 2 rhizomes. Standard Disclaimer. - -- Jim Grady grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 10:31:02 EST From: EDWARDP at INDY.NAVY.MIL Subject: HDM grain any good?? The local retailer can get HDM belgian malt at a very attractive price compared to Dewolf-Cosyns. The Wholesalers are telling him "it's the same". I'm skeptical. It may be as good, or maybe not as good, but probably not the same. What has the collective experience of HBD have to say about HDM, good, bad or indifferent? Al K, Do you sell the stuff? Dr. Fix, have you tested any HDM malt? Private E-mail acceptable. -- Paul E. (edwardp at indy.navy.mil) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 10:10:38 -0500 (EST) From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Subject: not-so-stout stout Hell HBD: I need to tap the wisdom of the HBD. I just made an all grain stout with a new SS brew pot I constructed from a keg. Not having marked the 5 gallon level very accurately, I wound up with 6 gallons of 1.039 OG wort. The recipe was as follows: 7# of Belgian pale malt 0.5 # roasted black malt Belgian 10 oz. of 6 row roasted barley 1# of Belgian special B 1 oz of Northern pellets at 7% a.a. boiled for 1 h 1 oz. of Willamette pellets at 5% a.a. boiled for 1 h. Single infusion mash at 158 to 162 F Pitched with Coopers dry ale yeast from Finland! I plan to keg this and have it on tap. The questions are: Is this too low a gravity for a draft stout? Should I add dry malt extract to raise the gravity? Should I freeze the wort before it goes into the secondary and remove chunks of ice to effectively raise the gravity and create an "ice stout". Any help will be appreciated either by e-mail of over the HBD. Thanks Andy Kligerman kligerman%am%herlvx at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 09:20:54 -0700 From: Mike Colyar <colyma at zinc.com> Subject: Using plastic carboys Has anyone had any success using plastic carboys instead of the glass variety for fermentation? They are easier to obtain and safer to handle than glass. Thanks, mike Mike_Colyar at zinc.com Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 1994 10:22:00 -0600 (CST) From: "Michael D. Hansen (708) 938-3184" <HANSEN.MICHAEL at igate.abbott.com> Subject: GROLSCH BOTTLES/CHICAGO BEER BARS/DUNKELWEIZENBOCK Hey All! As someone once said "A little bit about a lot of things..." To the lucky guy with the Grolsch-drinking Pop: Nab those bottles right quick young man! I have been using Grolsch and other swing top bottles for a while now and all I can say is more! more! more! I wish I had more! Luckily I found a weizen (Oberdorfer) that I like which comes in swingtops that are sold by the bottle at my local liquor store. Fischer makes a bitter and an amber which come in 22 oz. swingtops and Altenmeister's altbier comes in swingtops. I use the rubber gaskets twice. Just flip them over for the next batch. Discard and replace every other batch. I sanitize the whole kit-and-kaboodle in bleach solution and rinse in very hot water with a bottle washer replacing the water every half dozen bottles or so. I have never had a problem with uneven carbonation and swingtops look very classy. Another good Chicago beer bar to add to the list posted a couple of HBD's ago: The Great Beer Palace 4128 N. Lincoln Ave. Many, many micros and imports on tap. If you try their sampler platter you get a really neat paper Viking helmet (like the Burger King crowns) I brewed my second all-grain batch this weekend. Well almost all-grain. It was a dunkelweizenbock which was a dunkelweizen via all-grain and then "bocked" with weizen extract (Shh, don't tell; I just didn't want to boil down ten gallons which would've taken all day. It took long enough as it was). I purchased a 33 qt. enamel on steel brewpot which fit nicely over two burners on my gas stove. Great, I thought. Well, it did get nice and hot to get 6.5 gallons to a full rolling boil in about 20 minutes (good) but during the 90 minute boil, I scorched the counter top next to the stove because of that same heat (bad). Chalk-up another installment of the angry-wife syndrome. A caution to all you Zapap Lauter tun users: watch the level of the liquid that comes up between the two buckets! I didn't and ended up with a quart or so of precious juice all over the counter (yes, the to-be scorched one), floor, and the inside of my winter coat (Huh? you say? My lauter tun was donning it for insulation; Looks really funny). Chalk up the second installment of the angry-wife syndrome in the same brewing session. I'll post the recipe for the yet-to-be-named dunkelweizenbock provided it turns out the way I wanted it to. I have good feelings about it. Brew on my friends! Mike Hansen (HANSENMD at RANDB.ABBOTT.COM) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 11:54:02 EST From: U-E68316-Scott Wisler <wisler_scott at ae.ge.com> Subject: Tumbleweed Trip Review Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 1994 08:45:08 PST From: "JSDAWS1 at PROFSSR" <JSDAWS1 at PB1.PacBell.COM> Subject: coolers for mashing I've been using a freinds Gott 30-qt cooler w/copper manifold for about a year and getting 25/26 pts/lb/gal. I'm looking (with little success so far) for a cooler and am exploring alternatives. I've got questions. 1. I've read and heard that Gott or Rubbermade are preferable to Igloo. Is this fact or opinion ? 2. Any ideas on the relative efficiency of round vs rectabgular shaped coolers for extraction efficiency ? 3. Has anyone used both a copper manifold and an easymasher in a cooler ? Can the EM be easily installed in a cooler ? Thx in advance | Don't anthropomorphize computers... They don't like it. | | ------------------------------------------------------------------- | | JACK DAWSON - JSDAWS1 - 415 545-0299 - CUSTOMER BILLING (BG) | Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 12:30:02 EST From: theriaul at sde.mdso.vf.ge.com (Theriault Kenneth M.) Subject: Mini-Keg question? As far as I understand, the 5 Liter Mini Kegs all use a CO2 cartridge fitted into the mini-keg tap. Is there a way to connect a CO2 line up to it from a regulator/tank setup? I like the idea of the small kegs, but the idea of buying my CO2 in cartridges sounds a little expensive in the long run. Ken theriaul at sde.mdso.vf.ge.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 26 Mar 94 08:27:25 EST From: btalk at aol.com Subject: REC.CRAFTS.BREWING??? I've seen this mentioned a number of times on the HBD, and have always wondered what it was . How does it compare /contrast to the HBD? Subscription info? Is it worthwhile subscribing to if I already get the HBD? Later, BOb Talkiewicz, Binghamton, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 14:22:03 EST From: <NASARC07 at SIVM.SI.EDU> Subject: NEW MD BREWPUB *** Resending note of 03/28/94 14:16 To: HOMEBREW From: ALLAN JANUS Last week, I reported that the Old Town Tavern in Gaithersbug Maryland would open on March 31 - well, scratch that... I called, & that's just for the Chamber of Commerce and other damned aristos... the mob doesn't get in 'til Monday, April 4. I pressed my nose against the window last Friday and noticed they hadn't actually gotten around to brewing yet (a minor detail) so the dear knows what'll be on tap on Der Tap Tag. It's a very handsome looking place - I look forward to getting stinking drunk there - See you there, DC area pals of Gambrinus! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 11:01:35 -0900 From: RAY _ HANDER <FSRH at aurora.alaska.edu> Subject: cloudy brew I have a light lager that is about ready to bottle and it has not settled out thus leaving it cloudy. Is there a cure for this prior to priming and bottling? I'm an intermediate brewer with about 15 batches experien and this is the first time this has occured. What causes this cloudiness? Thanks in advance, reply on HBD or at FSRH at aurora.alaska.udu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 14:27:47 EST From: c_whitehead at queens.edu Subject: homebrew request please send me information about getting onto your mailing list regarding homebrewing...............Thank You..........Craig Whitehead (c_whitehead at jtk.queens.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 94 17:57:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Plastics and Permiability Oops! My keyboard at home has a sticky "m" key. Therefore, I'm not surprised that there was an "m" missing in the post about O2-permiability. The units should have been: / cc-mm \ | -------------- | 10^-10 \ sec-cm^2-cm Hg / Sorry. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 13:09:47 EST From: klo at fluent.com (Kirk L. Oseid) Subject: Brewpot Cleaning, Turbinado Priming Hello: Tim Lawson was having trouble cleaning the bottom of his brewpot. The answer is a 15-minute soak using just enough vinegar to cover the bottom. This will loosen the ``beerstone'' to the point that it will come off with a light scrubbing. The latest Zymurgy contains an article about brewing sugars, written by Jeff Frane. I have some Turbinado sugar that I planned to use in the kettle, but never did. Jeff's article got me thinking about using it in place of corn sugar for priming. Does anyone know of the Turbinado-equivalent of 1/2-cup of corn sugar? I understand different types of sugar will create varying degrees of carbonation if used in the same quantity. I want to use the Turbinado to lightly carbonate bitters and pale ales. Would the Turbinado produce a detectable flavor when used as the priming? Thanks, Kirk L. Oseid klo at fluent.com Fluent, Inc. tel 603/643-2600 10 Cavendish Court, Lebanon, NH 03766 fax 603/643-3967 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 10:13:11 -0800 From: "Daniel Ratchen" <daniel_ratchen at rainbow.mentorg.com> Subject: poles for growing hops All you Hop Growers... I am having trouble finding some lengthy poles to support my hop plants. 18' long poles just aren't available through the normal gardening channels. If I could only get a line on a hop grower that has a couple extra poles... Do you folks have any ideas about supporting hop plants? What materials you used? Where you got them? If someone near Portland, OR knows of some suppliers for hop growers that would be excellent! Thanks in advance for your help. E-mail is fine, daniel_ratchen at mentorg.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 15:50 EST From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU> Subject: Regulators for Kegging Question about regulators for kegging. We have this regulator sitting here at work. It was used to dispense argon and is now sitting around doing nothing. It's a rather big one, made for a 2o pound tank. Can it be used to keg homebrew? Andy Pastuszak Philadelphia, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 12:56:39 -0800 From: macbrew at netcom.com (Tom Lorelle) Subject: Portland Brewers Conference I am travelling to Portland for the PubBrewers conference next month. My original lodging plans fell through and I looking for a place to stay or share a room with someone. If anybody is interested or has some suggestions, please e-mail me at macbrew at netcom.com. Thanks, Tom Lorelle Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 14:58:45 CST From: don at tellabs.com Subject: Re:anaerobic kegging > Ben Woodliff suggests purging your c-keg before filling to prevent > O2 contamination. I agree and take it 1 step further. > > - With both locks on and the bung open, fill the keg with CO2 from > the bottom. Use the 'out' lock with the dip tube connected to the > CO2. > > -Close the bung and bleed the CO2 from the 'in', again from the > bottom to the top. The keg is now completly purged. > > - Connect the siphon hose to the 'out' lock (the dip tube) and > siphon the beer, filling the keg again from the bottom to the top. > The CO2 displaced by the beer will vent from the 'in' lock, it > must be on or the siphon won't work. Keep an eye on the siphon > hose, if you start to suck some muck, you can probably pull the > lock off before it gets into the keg. The lock will neatly seal > right away. > > Cheers > > Bill Nichols <bnichols at mlab.win.net> I've thought about filling kegs in this manner but have not since it would be difficult to sanitize the locks themselves and the male locks on the kegs. I suppose one could disassemble the female locks and sanitize then apply 80 proof vodka to the parts on the kegs. I have not tried this myself. Any other ideas?? don Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 14:58:04 EST From: Ash Baker <3AVHB at QUCDN.QUEENSU.CA> Subject: Vinegared beers, &c. I need a little help, and as this is the only place I can post, I'm hoping one of you can help me. In February, I went on a beer-buying binge. I guess I must have had about ninety bottles by the time I was finished -- micros from Ontario and Quebec, and imports that are unavailable in Ontario that I got at the Societe des Alcools. My problem is this: over the past few days, eleven bottles have turned out to be vinegared. The skunk is absent, but the vinegar makes the beers either totally undrinkable, or spoils the flavour sufficiently that I might as well be drinking a Budmilloor. So what's happening? Yes, some of the beers I bought might have been sitting on shelves for ages, but a bottle of Giraf that has a month to go until its date expires was vinegared just as much as a bottle of Molson Porter Champlain that (I later discovered) had been sitting around since 1992. Reinheitsgebot beers seem just as vulnerable as adjunct-laden ones. Is the problem with my storage methods? I have been keeping some in a beer fridge turned down so the cooling is only about to 40-45 Celsius. The rest I keep in a lightless box by my cold window -- they stay below 50 Celsius. Is the inevitable temperature fluctuation causing the beers to vinegar on me? Should I just keep them in a cold fridge (though I know that will adversely affect the bottle-conditioned ones). I often get two or three vinegared beers in a row -- will the flavour cling to my glass, even through a good rinse with cold water? Help me! What I am I doing wrong? I must have dumped about five litres of beer down the drain in the past week -- I don't want to continue! I know that in future I should buy beer as I need it and not hoard, but there must be some reason why beers are going vinegar, even before their expiry date. Any and all help would be very much appreciated -- please reply by private e-mail, and I will summarise and post the results. Ash Baker (3avhb at qucdn.queensu.ca) Queen's University, Ontario, Canada. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 17:02:15 EST From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com> Subject: Getting cut-off SS kegs There have been a lot of requests lately for addresses to get a cut-off SS keg. I finally have a couple of minutes to reply -- sorry for the delay. I got my 15.5 gal Sankey keg with the top already removed from BCI for $42.50 (last Dec) + shipping (about $15 to Mass.). Overall, I am quite pleased but it sure does seem to go through the propane quickly! It looks like I should work on building a heat shroud as someone posted earlier. Anyway, the address and phone info are: > BCI can be contacted at > > Bev-Con International > 6400 HIghway 51 South > Post Office Box 396 > Brighton, TN. 38011 > (901)476-8000 > (800)284-9410 They do NOT take credit cards! I called to find out what shipping would be and sent them a check. - -- Jim Grady grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 15:45:09 MST From: "BKYLE" <BKYLE at library.csf.edu> Subject: Homebrew supply shops Can anyone tell me where some quality homebrew supply stores are in Southern California. Thanks, Brendan Kyle Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 94 19:22:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: decoctions and enzymes/Red Star starters/aeration/Chimay takeover? Jack writes (quoting wyatt): > >Also anyone have any suggestions for insulating my Brewpot > when mashing? <snip> > > sometime's worry about destroying enzyme viability although I have > never had a problem). > >I think you are creating a problem where none exists. Compare what you are >considering with the absolute enzyme destruction in large proprotions of the >mash with decoction. I agree with Jack (sheesh) that enzyme destruction should not be a big worry if you stir periodically while heating and if you're careful to not overshoot your temperatures. However, I don't think comparing enzyme preservation in decoction mashing is applicable. From reading Greg Noonan's Brewing Lager Beer and his articles on decoction, I believe that most of the enzymes are in the liquid part of the mash and this is why he recommends that you take the thickest part of the mash (mostly grain, little liquid) for the decoctions. The enzymes would be preserved in the liquid while surely all the enzymes in the decoctions themselves would be denatured. In the final decoction (the one that takes you to mashout) the thinnest part of the mash is taken (mostly liquid) and therefore the enzymatic activity is completely stopped at this point in the process. Note that another reason for avoiding as much of the grain as possible in the final decoction is because, at this point, any liberated starch would not have any enzymes to convert it, leaving a starch haze. ************* Jonathan writes: >Yahoo! I just brewed my biggest batch ever, 100 gal. Had a some problem <snip> >I used Red Star Ale yeast, pitching it into 4 cups of a malt\water >solution at 95 degrees following the instructions on the package. After 5 >hours, there was no activity, so I made another starter, this time starting >at 90 degrees. After 4 hours, there was some activity, but not much. In a <snip> >Next morning, no activity. Yikes!! In a full panic, I went to the local First of all, despite what the package might say, you should rehydrate the yeast in pure, sanitary water and not wort. The additional osmotic pressure of the wort inhibits the water absorption and slows down the yeast. Secondly, if you used only one package of Red Star in a 100 gallon batch, you probably underpitched more than brewers who use Wyeast without a starter in their 5-gallon batches. If I were you, I would have use 10 to 20 packages of yeast in a 1-gallon jug of boiled-then-chilled-to-100F water. The beer will probably turn out just fine, but next time you'll rest easier if you use more yeast. *********** Jim writes: to do its thing, he says "The surest way to introduce a sufficient amount of oxygen is to splash the wort around as you pour it into the fermenter." Would too much aeration produce nasty oxidation crud? Does just transferring the wort to the fermenter aerate it enough (without having to splash it around)? The key is the temperature at which you aerate, for two reasons: 1. if you aerate hot wort (say, over 80F) you will then have oxidation of wort components and it will produce that "nasty oxidation crud" -- i.e. sherrylike flavors, poor shelf life, low hop aromas, etc. 2. oxygen is more soluble in cooler wort than in warmer wort and thus splashing around cool wort is generally enough to give the yeast sufficient oxygen for normal-gravity worts (you don't *have* to resort to airstones and pumps -- also, high gravity worts (say, above 1.075) would benefit from additional aeration, but you can do it by splashing longer/more). A datapoint: an 1100 OG Barleywine which I aerated simply by pouring the cooled wort into the carboy through a funnel and then swirling the carboy some more (used a 1 liter starter of Wyeast American Ale #1056) won a second place in this weekend's Brewers Of South Suburbia competition. ****** Rob writes (quoting Steve): >Chimay has been taken over by Interbrew (the brewers of Stella Artois) late >last year. There has been a noticeable increase in the amount of Chimay >available since then (especially USA ?). Therefore IMHO not all Chimay is >being brewed at the monastry. This was confirmed by a Belgian brewery contact >I have. Also same applies at Maredsous. I'm sure this is a cruel joke. Indeed, Chimay White (White cap and Cinq Cents) has been contract brewed for a while now, but by *another Trappist brewery* (Rochefort, I believe). I have noticed a similarity between Chimay and Rochefort 10 and would not be surprised if they used the same yeast. I can't see Chimay being taken over by Interbrew. Even more disturbing would be if Maredsous was taken over by Interbrew -- they are the brewers of Duvel as well as the four Maredsous beers. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 15:14:45 PST From: b_turnbaugh at csc32.ENET.dec.com Subject: Filters Would someone point me to the digest that described using a filter between two soda kegs??? Or if someone has first hand info please email be some suggestions. Thanks Bob. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 15:25:29 -0800 (PST) From: Zach Fresco <zfresco at bush.edu> Subject: non alcoholic? I have a friend who is not on the net who recently started a batch of beer. However he forgot to siphon it into the secondary and so its been in the primary for about 2 weeks. Is the bear ruined? It doesnt seem infectes so should he throw it out and start over or just bottle it. Return to table of contents
Date: 28 Mar 94 09:00:00 -0600 From: Thomas_Fotovich-U2347 at amail.mot.com Subject: patron saint of brewers... Steven Tollefsrud wrote >RONALD DWELLE wrote... >>Is there a patron saint of brewers (or homebrewers)? >I believe that St. Arnold is the patron saint of brewers and beer. I do believe that it's St. "I'll be Boch" Arnold who is the patron saint of brewers and beer. Okay. Somebody had to say it 8-). Paddy Fotovich Motorola/UDS u2347 at email.mot.com "I'm not an actor and I don't play one on tv." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 1994 17:37:34 -0800 From: Ted Manahan <tedm at hpcvcdq.cv.hp.com> Subject: Oregon Homebrew Competition Full-Name: Ted Manahan ANNOUNCING THE 12th ANNUAL OREGON HOMEBREW COMPETITION AND FESTIVAL On Saturday, May 14, 1994 at 12 noon. Benton County Fairgrounds - 110 SW 53rd Street, Corvallis, Oregon. Sponsored by The Capitol Brewers, Cascade Brewers Society, Heart of the Valley Homebrewers, Mary's Peak Lagers, and the Oregon Brew Crew. With Special Guest Fred Eckhardt For full information regarding the competition please send e-mail to Ted Manahan at internet address tedm at hp-pcd.cv.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 23:37:00 EST From: mrmike656 at aol.com Subject: Teflon Coated Pots? Greetings - I was looking for a pot to make small batches of starter wort. My wife spotted one that was just the size I was looking for, but it was Teflon coated. Is a Teflon coated pot okay to brew in? Mike Maimone Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 28 Mar 94 18:33:56 EST From: Tim Lawson <lawson at clcunix.msj.edu> Subject: aerating wort Jim Constantopoulos asked aerating wort. Most of what I've read suggests that simply splashing your wort around it not enough to aerate the wort properly. Oxygen in the wort is necessary for proper yeast growth and it does not produce oxidation prior to the onset of fermentation. The 1992 special edition of Zymurgy has some nice ideas on aerating wort. I use a method based on the ideas presented by Larry Barello (p.34). I have a hard plastic racking tube in which I drilled 4 holes (1/16" diameter) about one inch down from one end. This end it attached to a soft racking tube so the holes are not covered. The soft tube is connected to the spigot of my bottling bucket which contains 5 gallons of cooled wort. The hard plastic end it inserted into my 6.5 gallon glass carboy and I rack the wort. The holes suck in air as the wort is transferring. The drawback to this method is that the air is not sterile. However, I've had no contamination problems. Tim Lawson Behavioral Sciences Department College of Mount St. Joseph Cincinnati, Ohio 45233-1670 lawson at clcunix.msj.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1384, 03/29/94