HOMEBREW Digest #1396 Tue 12 April 1994
Digest #1395
Digest #1397
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Alcohol levels in US brews... (Stephen Hudson)
Original Budvar (Budweiser) labels (Maj Don Staib )
Wyeast/Bock/Iodine/Schools (Richard Buckberg)
A New Hop Root Question (Carlo Fusco)
S.F. brew spots (Michael Carr - ATT ASCC)
Cookers (mlittle)
Re: Titanium Cooker (Robert Schultz)
Grand Cru recipe (pblshr)
Yeasty Flavor, Water Help (Chris Pencis)
ph of sparge water (Robert Schultz)
Re : Re : Raspberry Extract (Andy Pershall)
SIERRA LISTSERVER (/R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/)
Re: BW aging & priming (Jim Busch)
Way high SG in steam beer after ferment ("Mark S. Woods")
cappers (Phil Duclos)
Brewing Better Beer (John DeCarlo x7116 )
Brewing Better Beer (John DeCarlo x7116 )
Starter Containers (Paul Sovcik)
Yeast Starter Problems (KWH)
How much cheaper is all-grain than extract? (Bob Bessette)
Titanium Boiling Pot?!? ("Palmer.John")
skimming the scum off the wort (James Kendall)
Irish Moss Failure?? (Jack Skeels)
My Gott (COCKERHAM_SANDRA_L)
5 gallon kegs - 3/$33 (Jon Higby)
BW for my new Daughter's 21st bd (Spencer.W.Thomas)
Alcohol content (Mark Worwetz)
Explosive ferments (Bart Thielges)
coffee stout (Allan Rubinoff)
EasySludge(tm) :-) (Rich Larsen)
Bye Bye (GNT_TOX_)
Zima/Shandy? (Bill Rust)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 10:37:45 EDT
From: mop3 at midas.ho.BOM.GOV.AU (Stephen Hudson)
Subject: Alcohol levels in US brews...
Just my $0.02 worth.
I've just started collecting foreign beers (up to about 50 and going strong)
and on _all_ beers sold in Australia it is mandatory to state the alcohol
levels as % Ac/Vol. Part of our countries laws regarding the publics right to
make informed choices of what their drinking. Imported beers must either have
a label different from those in the US, or have a seperate label attached to
the back of the bottle. Something for you collectors of beer bottles to think
about.
Anyway the results so far are:
Bud 4.7%
Schlitz 4.6%
Miller Genuine Draft 4.5%
The Coors bottle I've got somehow missed the Customs net.
BTW, these beers are on a par with any of the local swill.
Cheers
- --
Stephen Hudson
Cataloguing Section Telephone : +61 3 669-4563
Bureau of Meteorology Fax : +61 3 669-4254
Melbourne Victoria AUSTRALIA Email: S.Hudson at BoM.GOV.AU
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 94 22:50:42 -0600
From: staib at oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don Staib )
Subject: Original Budvar (Budweiser) labels
Was just cleaning up some bottles to put my latest brew in, and
instead of throwing away the labels I soaked off, I thought someone
out there who hasn't had the pleasure of seeing the Original Budweiser
beer, might like an original label to call their own. It would make a
great conversation piece for that American Budweiser drinker.
I picked up this beer in Europe, and it is the original Budweiser,
which was served to the Czech King as early as 1531. I have about 30
sets of front, back, and neck labels to send. I have more but I
haven't soaked them off yet. I don't quite know how to go about
giving them away, but I guess if you send me an email message with
your name, I'll send you a message back telling you your place in line
(1-30), and give you my address to send a SASE. I'll put the labels
in your envelope and send them on their way back to you. If I get
more than 30 requests, I could get off my duff, and clean up some
more, I think I may have another 30-40 out there in their plastic
returnable cases. We'll see what the response is! Also some of my
friends have more bottles, and I have them earmarked to come to my
humble homebrewery eventually.
The Budweiser bottle is a bright green clear smooth glass bottle, the
labels mostly orange and white, with a gold border. .33L, ALC 5.0% vol
Looking forward to hearing back, well worth a couple stamps!
The Braumeister Staib, in Layton, Utah!
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 01:24:52 -0700
From: Richard Buckberg <buck at well.sf.ca.us>
Subject: Wyeast/Bock/Iodine/Schools
I've had similar experiences with Wyeast American Ale yeast. It was slow to
start, but once it got going it fermented to completion rather quickly.
Seems to be quite efficient. I wonder if bag shows full expansion before
the yeast is actually ready and fully activated.
Thanks for the reply about the Celis Bock. Makes sense that it is an ale,
though it had the right color and base flavor for bock, sans the low
gravity. Nice stuff no matter what you might call it.
I have been using Iodophor as a sanitizer for my last few batches. The
claim is you don't have to rinse the carboy, bottles, etc. I didn't, and
just bottled today so I don't have the results first hand. But I am
wondering if others use Iodophor successfully, without rinsing. If so, this
stuff is miraculous!
For brewing schools, you might try UC Davis. They have classes for
homebrewers and microbrewers alike.
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Apr 1994 14:24:00 -0400
From: carlo.fusco at canrem.com (Carlo Fusco)
Subject: A New Hop Root Question
Hello Brewers,
I have a different type of question concerning hop rhizomes. I planted my
hops last year and I will have to dig them up this year since I will be
moving. While poking around the roots today I found a couple of runners
comming off the main clump of roots. I understand that these runners are
the rhizomes, and I what to know if I can dig these up and replant them to
make new plants? Or are they too young, or do they need to have buds of
some sort on them? The rhizomes right now are about 1/2 the thickness of a
pencil but basicly look like the sticks I planted last year.
Thanks
Carlo
- ---
* Freddie 1.2.5 * email: carlo.fusco at canrem.com Sharon,Ontario,Canada
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 08:19:16 EDT
From: carr at ascc01.ascc.att.com (Michael Carr - ATT ASCC)
Subject: S.F. brew spots
HB Digesters,
Here's yet another request for breweries/brewpubs/neat bars
for a location. This time it's San Francisco. I'm going to be out there
(for the first time) on 5/17-22. Please let me know of any good spots
to hit there or in the Monterey/Carmel area. Anchor comes to mind
immediately, so tour info for that would be nice, but I know there
are lots of other brew-related spots to hit too.
Thanks!! You can email me at carr at ascc01.att.com or post to the
Digest, whichever you prefer, though email will reduce Digest noise.
Mike Carr
_____________________________carr at ascc01.att.com___________________________
"All the other nations are drinking Ray Charles beer,
and we are drinking Barry Manilow." - Dave Barry
___________________________________________________________________________
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Apr 1994 09:46:00 EDT
From: mlittle at cclink.draper.com
Subject: Cookers
<<<<<< Attached TEXT item follows >>>>>>
Text item: Text_1
Hi folks,
I'd like to hear from anyone via private e-mail who has good (or bad)
things to say about various brands of cookers, and businesses that
sell them. I live in the Boston area and haven't had much success
locating these. I plan to use a converted Sankey keg, so the cooker
would need to be wide enough (at least 14 1/2" dia.).
I'll summarize and post if I get a significant database.
Thanks,
Mark
mlittle at draper.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 07:54:45 -0600 (CST)
From: Robert Schultz <Robert.Schultz at usask.ca>
Subject: Re: Titanium Cooker
I'm not sure of the effect of titanium on beer, but I would think it
should be ok. One reason for not using Titanium is its cost -- probably at
least double of SS.
Besides, you are one of the few people that has a brewpot capable of
mach 2 or greater!
Hope it works well for you in those cosmic brews...
Rob.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 09:54:44 EDT
From: pblshr at aol.com
Subject: Grand Cru recipe
Has anyone developed a WORKABLE recipe that emulates Celis Grand Cru? A bunch
of us got together last weekend for a Belgian bacchanal (excuse me,
"tasting") and I'm in love.
A friend attempted the Celis Grand Cru, but something in the proportions or
timing of his orange addition was off.
You can e-mail the recipe privately if you wish.
Tom Finan
pblshr at aol.com
"Confidence breeds style. If Norman Mailer were two inches taller, he could
write like Ernest Hemingway." -- P.J. O'Rourke
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 09:08:17 -0500
From: chp at mail.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis)
Subject: Yeasty Flavor, Water Help
Hi all...Couple of Questions, but background first...
I am a partial mash brewer, 12 batches, liquid yeast, immersion and counter
flow chillers, primaries only, 5 gal. batches fermented in glass carboy.
1. My two previous beers have had a slightly yeasty taste throughout the
batch (proper pouring taken into account). They have been a pale ale and
a brown ale. The pale has a chill haze problem - I do use Irish Moss, but
have yet to try reconstitution. Questions: 1. What is the possible problem?
Wild yeasts? not too likely - no significant off flavors and good sanitation.
Excessive yeast/sediment transferred in racking? Others...? 2. What
solutions are recommended by the HBD wisdom? Use of a secondary? Note that
this problem did not show up in my Oatmeal Stout (excellent IMNSHO) nor in
an alt. Other previous beers had other problems, I'm finally getting down
to the nitty gritty. TIA
2. I may be getting ahead of myself, but I got water data from City of Austin
and was wondering...1) anyone in the Austin area want this data (electronic
copy)? 2) Anyone willing to answer my questions such as: what the hell
does one do with pH 10.1 water, total hardness 120 (better than the local
lake with a hardness of 214). I am, due to the current lack of lagering
capacity, an ale brewer. I'm looking to find the tweak in the water which
may assist in a cleaner beer palate so I can truely appreciate every bit
of the nice maltiness, esters, and hop aroma in my ales. Any assistance
would be greatly appreciated.
ps. note the new Email address for those interested...
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 08:08:45 -0600 (CST)
From: Robert Schultz <Robert.Schultz at usask.ca>
Subject: ph of sparge water
I have recently read a few things about the importance of lowering the
ph of the sparge water to that of the mash. Anyone out there have any specifics
on the effects of doing/not doing this?
What does one normally use to lower the ph -- gypsum, lactic acid? Any
formula to follow to use the correct amount?
My tap water has a ph of about 8.5.
Thanks.
Rob.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Robert.Schultz at usask.ca, Senior Research Analyst, University of Saskatchewan ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ "I'm going off half-cocked? I'm going off half-cocked? ... ~
~ Well, Mother was right - You can't argue with a shotgun." - Gary Larson ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 10:05:02 -0400
From: tron!eclus.dnet!pershall at uunet.UU.NET (Andy Pershall)
Subject: Re : Re : Raspberry Extract
I've had several questions concerning what raspberry extract
I used for my 5 gal. of stout, and how I used it, so here's the info:
1. I used the natural raspberry fruit flavoring (4 oz, catalog
number NF-20) from Brewer's Resource (1-800-827-3983).
2. I added all 4 oz. at the end of the boil, just before dumping
everything into the cold water in the fermenter.
3. The entire fermentation was in the primary (I haven't yet had
any off flavors or any other reason to rack to a secondary).
In my own (perhaps biased) opinion, the resulting beer had a very noticeable
raspberry aroma and flavor. I can't say whether this was by pure luck, or
because of how I used the extract. If anyone out there uses this approach,
please let me know how it turned out for you.
-- Andy (pershall at eclus.bwi.wec.com)
Woman (to Winston Churchill during a heated session of Parliment):
"Sir, if you were my husband, I would put poison in your tea."
Churchill:
"Madam, if you were my wife, I think I would drink it."
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 10:37:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: /R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=KLIGERMAN/FFN=KLIGERMAN/ at mr.rtpnc.epa.gov
Subject: SIERRA LISTSERVER
Help!. I have been successful several times in hooking up to the archives
using the listserv. Lately I have tried several times, sent mail to Mr.
Hanson, tried using America On-line but have gotten no successful responses
and have not received error messages. Has anyone else had this problem, and
can anyone suggest a solution?
TIA,
Andy Kligerman
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 11:13:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Busch <busch at daacdev1.stx.com>
Subject: Re: BW aging & priming
> Finally, Jim Busch suggest that for a barley wine that I had fresh yeast
> with priming sugar at bottling time. If I were to use a healthy
> Champagne yeast to begin with would this still be neccessary. And if so,
> what quatity should I be adding. Afraid of exploding bottles I guess.
In my opinion, the high alcohol of the BW results in the fermentation
yeast being too weak to reliably be used as a bottling yeast, and this
is true for either strain used. I suggest that you allow the primary
to go for 1-2 weeks, rack to a secondary and leave it until you are
confident it is done fermenting. Then grow up fresh yeast, 50-100
ml of wort, pour off the "still beer, add the yeast slurry and priming
sugar/wort in the bottling bucket. Phil Seitz has had excellent results
using this technique for strong Belgian Ales.
> **
>
> Regarding Scott's planned 18 year old barleywine, here' my suggestions:
>
> No priming sugar at all. Sanitation is not perfect and you will have some
> bacterial and wild yeast activity breaking down some of the unfermentables.
> > My BW had no priming and is carbonating quite nicely after 6 months or so.
I dont agree. You do have to make sure that the beer ferments out, you
dont want to be bottling at 8P and adding sugar. If you can attenuate the
beer to 4P, I would still use some sugar, and be extra careful with sanitation.
The only bacteria that could be introduced at bottling time in a BW comes
from the bottling and air, not the still beer.
One of the points that has been overlooked in this thread is autolysis. For
a keeping beer like this, it is even more important to remove the ferment
yeast using secondaries and maybe racking between corny kegs and force
priming. A 3 or 5 gallon corny would seem ideal, in ease and sanitation.
Others argue that bottle conditioning is essential......
>
> Subject: De Clerck's Textbook
If you find one, buy two! Id pay big bucks for this.
Good brewing,
Jim Busch
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 10:34:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: "Mark S. Woods" <woodsman at genesis.mcs.com>
Subject: Way high SG in steam beer after ferment
I brewed Pappazian's 'The Sun Has Left Us On Time' steam beer a couple
weeks ago using M&F light malt extract and Wyeast California lager. After
a very vigorous 5 day ferment at room temperature I racked the beer and
put it in my basement (about 56F-60F). That was about ten days ago.
Yesterday I racked it again and checked the SG (prior to racking). It was
a whopping 1.042. I forgot to check the initial SG, but it should have
been around 1.048.
How can the SG be so high still? The beer is still bubbling away down in
my basement (slowly because of the temp). It tastes very sweet with a hint
of the rotten eggs I've seen in my lagers.
// Mark S. Woods | woodsman at genesis.mcs.com
// | mwoods1+aLIF1%Allstate_Corp+p at mcimail.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 09:39:29 MDT
From: pjd at craycos.com (Phil Duclos)
Subject: cappers
I scrounged an old bench capper from a junk/antique store. Its made of
stamped steel and is probably 30+ years old, maybe more. Cost was $15. It will
probably last another 50 years with regular use. Doesn't do the jumbo 1.5l
champagne bottles, but I use them rarely anymore. Its faster than a grab the
neck kind and costs about the same. Screw it down to a small board for best
results. That's my recommendation for a bottle capper!
phil
pjd at craycos.com
pjd at clouds.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 11:35:57 EST
From: John DeCarlo x7116 <jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org>
Subject: Brewing Better Beer
How to Brew Better Beer Than You Are Making Now.
a book by me.
1) Improve your process.
a) Equipment
b) Sanitation
c) Other Parts of Process
1) Crushing Grain
2) Mashing Grain (Full or Partial)
3) Sparging
4) Boiling Wort
5) Cooling Wort
6) Preparing Yeast
a) Culturing
b) Yeast Starters
7) Aerating Wort for Yeast
8) Fermenting (temperature control, etc.)
9) Bottling, Kegging
10) Carbonating
11) Serving
2) Improve your ingredients. Buy better Quality, Improve Storage
Methods
a) Malt or Malt Extract
b) Yeast
c) Water
d) Hops
e) Other (wheat malt, unmalted barley, honey, dextrose, fruit, etc.)
This is only semi-serious, but I give this presentation orally to
friends and brewers all the time.
We can all of us (even the masters) improve on just about all of these
brewing areas to make even better beer. The question is where do you
stop? Fora like the HBD allow me to consider what others do and
potentially consider changing what I do as an experiment. Whether you
are all-grain or extract or partial mash or kegger or bottler or
blow-off or no-blow-off, you have room to improve if you want to.
If you don't want to (for such reasons as "I like the beer I make",
"I've won homebrewer of the year three times already-enough is enough",
"I won't until I find more time [me]") that's fine.
Any comments on my outline are welcome.
John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 11:33:05 EST
From: John DeCarlo x7116 <jdecarlo at homebrew.mitre.org>
Subject: Brewing Better Beer
How to Brew Better Beer Than You Are Making Now.
a book by me.
1) Improve your process.
a) Equipment
b) Sanitation
c) Other Parts of Process
1) Crushing Grain
2) Mashing Grain (Full or Partial)
3) Sparging
4) Boiling Wort
5) Cooling Wort
6) Preparing Yeast
a) Culturing
b) Yeast Starters
7) Aerating Wort for Yeast
8) Fermenting (temperature control, etc.)
9) Bottling, Kegging
10) Carbonating
11) Serving
2) Improve your ingredients. Buy better Quality, Improve Storage
Methods
a) Malt or Malt Extract
b) Yeast
c) Water
d) Hops
e) Other (wheat malt, unmalted barley, honey, dextrose, fruit, etc.)
This is only semi-serious, but I give this presentation orally to
friends and brewers all the time.
We can all of us (even the masters) improve on just about all of these
brewing areas to make even better beer. The question is where do you
stop? Fora like the HBD allow me to consider what others do and
potentially consider changing what I do as an experiment. Whether you
are all-grain or extract or partial mash or kegger or bottler or
blow-off or no-blow-off, you have room to improve if you want to.
If you don't want to (for such reasons as "I like the beer I make",
"I've won homebrewer of the year three times already-enough is enough",
"I won't until I find more time [me]") that's fine.
Any comments on my outline are welcome.
John DeCarlo, MITRE Corporation, McLean, VA--My views are my own
Fidonet: 1:109/131 Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 10:43:34 CDT
From: Paul Sovcik <U18183%UICVM at UIC.EDU>
Subject: Starter Containers
Just wanted to share a brewing idea with y'all....
I found a great container for making starters for Wyeast. I used to use a beer
bottle with an airlock, but now I just sanitize a 2 L pop bottle and make the
starter in there. Advantages include the fact that you can see the starter as
it gets going, you can "dent" the bottle at first and watch it get pressure as
it returns to original form, and to depressurize, just give a half twist to the
top (without really breaking sterility).
Plus, you can make almost 2 liters of starter in the same container.
Now, a question: Has anyone used Eroica hops as a finishing hop or as
a dry hop addition? Is it any good for this purpose?
Paul
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 11:51
From: KWH at roadnet.ups.com (KWH)
Subject: Yeast Starter Problems
I have recently converted over to making yeast starters instead of my usual
method of just dumping the packet(s) into the entire batch. The logic
behind it seemed to be good insurance. My procedure has been to boil about
a quart of water with DME and 1/4 tsp of yeast energizer for about 15
minutes, then pour into a gallon jug containing about a quart of preboiled
and chilled water. The gravity of this mixture is about 1.035. After
chilling in an ice bath (pitching temp in approximately 15 minutes), I
aerate by shaking for 5 minutes. At that time, I sprinkle the yeast in
(two packets of Red Star Ale Yeast on last attempt), agitate, affix stopper
and air lock. Signs of activity are almost immediate. My problem is that,
even after two to three days, the starter looks like golden brown mud.
Nothing falls out of solution. I looked in Miller's book, which states
that stable haze is nonflocculating microorganisms caused by wild yeast or
bacteria. If this is true, then I am amazed that anything could live
through the sanitation I put my equipment through when I'm working with
yeast. I have had the same results three times in a row, all with
different yeast. The starter does not have any off odors, rings at the
neck, ropes, etc.., but it does have a muddy flavor to it. Should I pitch
this muck and just fine the crap out of it? I really think that I am doing
something fundamentally wrong -- Please let me know what it is before I
lose my mind. If anyone has any suggestions for a tried and true,
never-fail method, please share them with me by private e-mail.
Thanks,
Kirk Harralson
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 12:05:31 EDT
From: Bob Bessette <bessette at uicc.com>
Subject: How much cheaper is all-grain than extract?
Ronald Dwelle writes:
> I'm not eager to keep the all-grain/extract thread going. But I
> would like to add that I do all-grain for one reason--it's lots
> cheaper.
I have been extract brewing for approximately 6 months now and I find it very
expensive to do so. Can you experienced all-grainers out there give me a cost
differential on all-grain vs extract for a basic English-type amber ale? I
have been comtemplating investing in the equipment for all-grain brewing and
if I could have a cost justification I might be able to sell it to my wife.
Just for doing a pale ale utilizing 2 cans of unhopped light extract can run
me as high as $28-$30. Granted the brew comes out excellent, based on my
limited extract standards, but that is a bit pricey. I look forward to some
cost analyses by you all-grainers out there. I'm sure such a justification
came into your decision to go to all-grain as well. Thanks in advance...
Bob Bessette
bessette at uicc.com
Unitrode Integrated Circuits
Merrimack, NH
Return to table of contents
Date: 11 Apr 1994 09:09:28 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Titanium Boiling Pot?!?
In response to Gordon Saby's post about getting an ASTM B265, G2 Titanium
boiling pot made for him by a friend, I offer this general information, lest
his post starts a clamor for titanium brewing equipment. The same cleaning
agents that work for stainless, may or may not work for stainless, but you
won't hurt it by trying them. Titanium is very corrosion resistant,
However...read on...
ASTM B265, Unalloyed Titanium, Grade 2
(ref. Metals Handbook Ninth Ed. Vol. 3)
Typical Usage: Aerospace airframe and engine components such as
engine shrouds, casings and airframe hot gas ducting; corrosion resistant
sparger (sic) tubes for the chemical process industry.
Weldability is good. Corrosion resistance to various salts and acids is
rated as a couple of thousandths of an inch per Year, and Nil (sic) in most
cases.
Thermal Conductivity = 9.5 BTU/ft hr F versus 9.4 for Stainless
Cost for Ti about $8.00/lb versus $2.90/lb for Stainless
Heating of titanium in air at high temperature results not only in
oxidation but also in solid solution hardening of the surface as a result of
inward diffusion of oxygen. A surface -hardened zone of alpha-case (or air
contamination layer) is formed. Normally, this layer is removed by
machining, chemical milling or other mechanical means prior to placing
part in service, because the presence of alpha-case reduces fatigue strength
and ductility.
Hydrogen Embrittlement of titanium can occur in hydrogenerating
solutions at room temperature and during exposure to reducing
atmospheres at elevated temperatures. Elevated temperature atmospheric
exposure also results in surface contamination by oxygen and nitrogen
(oxygen preferentially), which can be extended subsurface to greater
depths with increasing time or temperature. Violent oxidation reactions
can occur between titanium and red fuming nitric acid.
"What does this mean to a Homebrewer?" I hear you exclaim vehemently.
Well, in terms of wort interaction, titanium is the next best thing to gold or
platinum, and better than stainless steel.
But, notice above where I cited the section on Heating and Hydrogen
Embrittlement. Titanium has a great affinity for oxygen and hydrogen.
Oxygen acts as an alloying agent, strengthening and stiffening it.
Unfortunately, it quickly gets to be too much of a good thing. Hydrogen
goes a step further, in that there is no beneficial amount, and only
embrittlement results.
Why do I bring this up? Because many brewers use gas stoves or propane
cookers to fire their boils. There are three types of combustion here:
oxygenating, complete-combustion, or reducing. Assuming your stove or
cooker is experiencing complete combustion, the pot would still be
experiencing high temperature oxidation from the surrounding
atmosphere at some point of its bottom surface. With either a oxygenating
or reducing combustion, the pot is being exposed to either more oxygen or
hydrogen. Of the three, the hydrogen would be the worst, resulting in
cracking in a relatively short period of time.
I suggest getting a piece of aluminum sheet to sit the pot on while heating,
that should increase the usable life.
Personal Comment: You lucky dog! On the other hand, given the
anticipated atmospheric reactions, for the rest of you brewers, I wouldn't
get too excited about it.
John Palmer Metallurgist for International Space Station Alpha (aka Space
Station Ralph) MDA-SSD M&P palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com OR
palmer#d#john.ssd-hb_#l#15&22#r# at ssdgwy.mdc.com
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 12:38:58 EDT
From: James Kendall <kendall at ltee.hydro.qc.ca>
Subject: skimming the scum off the wort
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 11:24 EST
From: Jack Skeels <0004310587 at mcimail.com>
Subject: Irish Moss Failure??
Fellow seaweed users,
I tried to rehydrate my Irish Moss (Brewer's resource brand) by adding about
1/2 cup hot water to it (2 tsp. IM) the night before I brewed. By the next
day, it had gelatinized in the jar. I scraped it out and added it to my
boil, and it mostly stayed in large clumps. I get the feeling that this
wasn't what was supposed to happen. I've used IM before (my first brew),
but really didn't notice what it did.
My questions: What gives?
Easy-answer (tm) system:
a) Hey Jack, RDWHAHB, it worked fine.
b) Too little water.
c) Don't use hot water.
d) Don't rehydrate.
e) Break up the clumps before you put it in the wort.
TIA for the advice.
Jack Skeels
JSKEELS at MCIMAIL.COM
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 12:08:14 -0500 (EST)
From: COCKERHAM_SANDRA_L at Lilly.com
Subject: My Gott
I am not the most mechanically inclined person (not the least either).
I replaced the spigot in my Gott cooler with a bottling spigot after
trimming the hole slightly larger. I trimmed a bargain plastic colander
to fit exactly (well...almost exactly) for my false bottom.
Thats it. Easy all-grain. I have made a couple tasty brews in it. The
bottling spigot was about two bucks and the colander set me back a buck.
Good luck and good beer!!
Sandy C.
From: COCKERHAM SANDRA L (MCVAX0::RX31852)
To: VMS MAIL ADDRESSEE (IN::"homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com")
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 11:06:01 CDT
From: unisql!jonh at cs.utexas.edu (Jon Higby)
Subject: 5 gallon kegs - 3/$33
Thought I'd post this to the HBD (previously posted it to r.c.b).
St. Patricks - (512) 832-9045 (Austin, Texas)
5 gallon ball-lock - 3/$33
5 gallon pin-lock - 3/$39
Price plus actual UPS shipping charges (no handling fees). All kegs are
pressure tested, but do not have new gaskets (~$3/keg).
Lynn (the owner) said she had about 500, but she's been shipping them them
out like mad. She also said she had a line on another 1,000. UPS man said
she shipped more last week than IBM (RISC 6000 line is manufactured here)!
No affiliation, deals, kickbacks, etc. Just a happy local customer.
Jon /
/ Austin
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 13:09:48 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
Subject: BW for my new Daughter's 21st bd
For 5 gallons, start with a total of 25 lbs of malt. I'd go for
something like this:
80% pale ale malt (20lbs)
10% Munich or other light roasted malt (2.5lbs)
4% Aromatic malt (from DeWolf Cosyns) (1 lb)
4% Special B malt (ditto) (1 lb)
2% Crystal (40-50L English, e.g.) (.5 lb)
This should give a nice, complex malt base to the beer.
Mash it with about 10 gallons of water, and drain the tun dry with NO
additional sparge water. This should give you 6-7 gallons at around
1.090 (my mileage, anyway). For a long boil, go for the higher amount
of water; your sparge gravity will be a little lower, but you'll boil
off more water for a slightly higher OG (1.110-1.120). (You can
sparge the remaining grains to get wort for another 5 gallons of a
light beer, probably around 1.035-040, if you've got the boiling
capacity.)
Then you'll want lots of bittering hops, somewhere around 25-30HBUs.
Keep in mind that the bittering will mellow, and that you want lots of
hops to (1) balance the sugar and (2) enhance the keeping qualities.
You might throw in some finishing hops, but I doubt they'd survive 20
years very well. If you do, a couple of ounces might give it a chance
of surviving.
3 hours should be the longest you'd boil, because at that point, the
hot break starts to break back down into soluble protein.
Be careful about HSA. With all that malt, and the long aging, any
oxidation effects will be painfully obvious.
Build up a BIG starter (1 gallons is optimal) of a yeast that will
ferment at low temperatures (I've had good luck with Wyeast Scottish).
The starter gravity should be higher than normal, at least in the
final stage. You'll probably want to do it in two stages, first 1
pint, then 1 gallon. Let the 1 gallon starter ferment all the way
out, so there's a nice thick yeast slurry on the bottom.
Aerate the wort very well. Just shaking it in the carboy will not
do the trick. I use an in-line aerator made from a piece of copper
tubing with little holes drilled in the side near the top. The siphon
hose attaches to it, and I stick it into the carboy as I'm siphoning.
You could also use the aquarium pump trick.
Pour most of the liquid off the top of the yeast slurry, swirl the
starter jug well to mix it up, and pour it into the carboy.
Alternatively, you could make the starter directly in the carboy, and
pour off the "beer" (or make a batch of regular beer first) before
running the wort into the carboy.
A 6-gallon carboy is probably a good idea, it will give room for the
large krauesen that is sure to develop.
Ferment COOL. A warm fermentation will produce undesirable levels of
fusel alcohols that impart a harsh, solventlike flavor to the young
barleywine. Although, with aging, they will oxidize into esters that
may add to the flavor; I'm not sure. I've been trying to run my heavy
beers around 50F, almost as if they were lagers.
Be prepared for a long fermentation. Rack to secondary when the
fermentation is basically finished, to get it off the yeast (don't
want autolysis), but then leave it in secondary for a couple of months
longer to make sure it's done, and to let the flavors "combine" and
mellow a bit.
At bottling time, pitch fresh yeast along with your priming sugar.
Otherwise, you probably won't get any carbonation from your tired
yeast.
I would bottle with the oxygen-scavenging caps (SmartCaps?). The long
aging period will allow any oxidation that's going to happen to
happen. You want to minimize it, so anything you can do to help
reduce it is good.
=Spencer
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 11:41:30 -0600 (MDT)
From: Mark_Worwetz at Novell.COM (Mark Worwetz)
Subject: Alcohol content
Howdy from Zion!
Here in Utah, (correct pronunciation is Utarrrr) we measure piety in
inverse relation to the alcohol content of our beverages. We have
therefore had a long tradition of permitting only 'safe' major label
beers in our supermarkets. Safe has been defined as 3.2% ABV.
My questions are:
Do all of the majors brew multiple strength beers? Do evil, sinner saturated
states like Nevada and Californicate get all the strong beer while the
pure of spirit people of Utarrrr and the Bible Belt get the 3.2? Do
the majors devote some of their breweries exclusively to lighter beer?
Do they brew it different or just utilize questionable practices like
'Ice Brewing' to kick up the alcohol for the bad people?
P.S.
To whoever posted the recipe for the "Jamaican Blue Mead" last year:
Wow! Good stuff so far BUT 2 questions:
Why did you keep the alcohol level down (only 8 gallons honey)?
Did all of the color from your blueberries drop out? Mine came out looking
like a white wine.
Mark Worwetz
Mark_Worwetz at novell.com
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 11:14:12 PDT
From: hpfcla.fc.hp.com!relay.hp.com!daver!nexgen!bart (Bart Thielges)
Subject: Explosive ferments
In Homebrew Digest #1394, Doug Lukasik asks whether his switch to partial
mashes or the use of yeast starters is the cause of his explosive ferments.
I'd have to say that it must be the yeast starters. With well oxygenated
wort, the large initial colony can really crank out the CO2. Without a
starter, the yeast is consuming some of the sugars while it is building
up its population and thus peaks at a lower rate of fermentation.
I've been reading an old textbook on nuclear safeguards that I picked up
at my local 24 hour self service 15 cent book store. At the end of
the book are case histories of nuclear accidents. There seem to
be parallels between these early reactor accidents and homebrew mishaps :
Hyperactive primaries <=> supercritical fuel assemblies
Wort contamination <=> Iodine contamination
Kettle boilovers <=> reactor coolant boilovers
Gushing bottles <=> supposibly subcritical cleanup solutions going critical
The smell of burned wort on the heating elements that means "My housemates
are gonna kill me" <=> The blue flash that means "I'm gonna die
of radiation poisoning within the next two weeks."
Yes, as you can see, nuclear science and brewing have a lot in common. Except
brewing is a lot cheaper. And the supplies are easy to find. And no-one
has yet died by adding too much yeast to their reactor . . . er, um . .
primary. OK, ok, maybe there isn't THAT much in common after all.
Bart bart at nexgen.com
Equipment destroyed since last message : 1 racking cane (me),
1 hydrometer, 1 sauce pan (Masher Paul)
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 14:17:06 EDT
From: Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff at BBN.COM>
Subject: coffee stout
Eric Sarlin writes in HBD #1394:
>To avoid this stale coffee taste in home brew, the coffee guy told me
>not to put ground beans directly into the wort. Rather, make a pot of
>strong coffee (about 10 cups), and run it through clean paper filters
>(the kind used with drip coffee machines) at least twice. The filters
>help to remove the oils and will give you a better tasting beer in the
>long run. Add the coffee at the end of the boil, about when you add
>the finishing hops.
I recently made a small batch (2 gallons) of coffee stout by adding a
quart of strong French Roast coffee to the brewpot after the boil. The
coffee was made in a drip maker, so it was filtered through a paper
filter, but I didn't filter it again afterward.
The beer turned out great. The initial sip tastes like a good dry
stout, but the finish is intensely coffeeish, and lingers for a *long*
time. In fact, this is the most intensely flavored beer I've ever
tasted. It takes a long time to drink a bottle of this stuff --
definitely a sipping beer.
The stout has been in bottles for about 6 weeks now, and I haven't
noticed any of the stale taste Eric mentions. Also, the head retention
is good, which leads me to believe that not a lot of coffee oils made it
into the finished beer. Still, filtering the coffee a couple times
before adding it to the brewpot is probably a good idea.
If anybody else wants to try this, I would suggest using a slightly
lower coffee/wort ratio than I did, unless you really love coffee.
Also, go pretty light on the bittering hops, because the coffee will add
quite a bit of bitterness to the brew.
-Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff at bbn.com>
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 1994 13:26:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: Rich Larsen <richl at access1.speedway.net>
Subject: EasySludge(tm) :-)
Jack writes :
>Not sure it is important but the copper color was over the entire tubular
>strainer and not just where it contacted the copper tube. I think using the
>term "copper color" is loading the statement. I agreed that it was that
>color but if asked if it was brown I would also have said yes. Without
>further data there is no reason to conclude that the coloring matter is
>actually copper except that it fits into the senario that is being
suggested.
>
>I have occassionally soaked these screens in lye solution to clean them and
>they come out looking like new. My guess would be that the material in
>question is of organic origin and has nothing to do with galvanic activity.
I have an immersion chiller (don't start counter flow-ers :-) ) that I
recently
noticed has a brown substance on the surface. It seems pretty well bonded to
the copper when dry, but when wet, comes off with a simple rub. This may be
the same material, Jack. Underneath the deposits the copper is bright. I've
been using this chiller for about 2 years without cleaning. Just rinsing.
=> Rich
Rich Larsen (708) 388-3514
The Blind Dog Brewery "HomeBrewPub", Midlothian, IL
(Not a commercial establishment)
"I never drink... Wine." Bela Lugosi as Dracula
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Date: Mon, 11 Apr 94 15:00 EST
From: <GNT_TOX_%ALLOY.BITNET at PUCC.PRINCETON.EDU>
Subject: Bye Bye
I've been asked by my company not to receive any more non work related
mail at the office. If you need to reach me, I ask that you please
send all correspondense to PASTI at AOL.COM, my new E-Mail address for
the HBD. Send those malt extract reviews to this new address. Please
don't send any mail to the address at the top of this message, because
I will be forced to ignore it and delete it. I will be off the HBD
for a couple of days, while America Online starts to get it.
Andy Pastuszak
Philadelphia, PA
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Date: Sun, 10 Apr 94 18:54:00 -0640
From: bill.rust at travel.com (Bill Rust)
Subject: Zima/Shandy?
Greetings Brewers,
I don't really have a noteworthy opinion on whether or Zima is beer or not,
but I have tried it and it really does taste like Sprite!
HYPOTHESIS:
If English Shandy is made with equal parts of ale (stout)
and lemonade... (ref. HBD1250)
And if this English lemonade tastes like Sprite... (ref.
HBD1251)
And since Zima tastes like Sprite...
Could one make a fairly potent version of Shandy by
mixing equal parts of Zima and Ale (or Stout)?
I'll do some field testing and get back to you(s).
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Here's to the maiden of bashful fifteen; | BILL RUST |
| Here's to the widow of fifty; | Systems Analyst |
| Here's to the flaunting, extravagant quean, | |
| And here's to the housewife that's thrifty. | |
| Let the toast pass; | --=_=-- |
| Drink to the lass; | |
| I'll warrant she'll prove an excuse for the glass. | |
| | |
| RICHARD BRINSLEY SHERIDAN 1751-1816 | Shiloh, IL |
| The School for Scandal [1777], Act III, sc. III | bill.rust at travel.com |
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------+
- ---
~ SPEED 1.40 [NR] ~
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1396, 04/12/94