HOMEBREW Digest #1419 Mon 09 May 1994

Digest #1418 Digest #1420

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Maltose is ? (MS08653)
  BrewArt, vol3--The Woodcuts (George Tempel)
  Re: Keg fittings (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Tried and True Porter Recipe Request (Chris Pencis)
  How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar (Jack Skeels)
  6.5 gal carboys/ colored glass bottles (John McCaskill)
  Distilled vs. Deionized (andrewb6)
  Anthropology (Jeff Frane)
  Bitter ale recipe wanted (bob)
  Frankenbrau/Carbonates/BallvsPin/B-Brite warning/Blackberries (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Pumps (Phil Duclos)
  More Lead... kinda (Michael Cullen)
  Chlorine Bleach and Stainless ("Palmer.John")
  Lower Calorie Beer (PNEUMAND)
  Priming sugar question - no, really! (David Draper)
  spruce beer (btalk)
  Extract (Maj Don Staib )
  Budvar "Budweiser" labels (Maj Don Staib )
  Legalities of a pub (Kinney Baughman)
  Fullers/Yeast? (VIALEGGIO)
  Full-boil extract brew questions... (Bob Bessette)
  Thanks about hop tea (Carlo Fusco)
  Astringent stout & Ca (ELTEE)
  Homebrew Digest #1417 (Ma (Jim King)
  Peanut Butter!! (Jonny Miner)
  Wort Boiler for Sale (maybe) (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Cheap Trick (Jack Schmidling)
  Re: CTSP info ("Mark B. Alston")
  Using Grains in Extract recipes ( LARRY KELLY)
  Beginner in Mashing HELP ME! ( LARRY KELLY)
  Re: CTSP info (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Carrot alcohol (rsharris)
  Re: SOLD: Wort Boiler for Sale (maybe) (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Stainless pot source?? ("David B. Ebenstein")

Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a message to that address to receive listserver instructions.) Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 06 May 94 10:33:31 From: MS08653 at MSBG.med.ge.com Subject: Maltose is ? From: "MICHAEL L. TEED"<MS08653 at MSBG> Dist: INTERNET int homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com After reading here on HBD about a product that was referred to as Maltose, I ha ve been attempting to locate said product, with nothing but blank stares from t hose who I have asked. I tried every health food store in the Metro Milwaukee a rea, asking for Maltose, then adding it was a malted rice product of some form. Can someone direct me to either the proper terminology or name for this product , and if I am correct in my description, I would appreciate a source for this p roduct. TIA. EMail responses are fine. Michael Teed - MS08653 at MSBG.med.ge.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 May 1994 11:36:18 +0000 (U) From: George Tempel <tempel at MONMOUTH-ETDL1.ARMY.MIL> Subject: BrewArt, vol3--The Woodcuts BrewArt, vol3--The Woodcuts Welcome to the BrewArt Collection, volume #3 (for Macintosh)! ** "The Woodcuts Edition" ** copyright 1994 George (Ty) Tempel This collection should show up at sierra.stanford.edu in the /pub/homebrewing/docs directory as "brewart_3.hqx" or "BrewArtv3.hqx". As with the other BrewArt collections, you can download with a TEXT mode anonymous ftp to sierra.stanford.edu. Once you've gotten the file onto your macintosh use something like StuffItExpander to un-binhex the file into a DiskDoubler self-extracting archive, which explodes into a folder. Chances are that if you were to simply double-click on any of the clip art files nothing remarkable would happen. Since they are clip art, you need to use the "Open" or "Place Art" menu selections within your graphics program to open these files and pop them into your own designs. ABSTRACT: This collection is the thrid edition of a set of brewing related clip art that I am in the process of creating and compiling. I have used some of these elements on my beer labels, and a few of my network-friends have found them helpful as well. DESCRIPTION: The artwork is provided in the form of PICT files, which are easily handled by nearly all major applications in the Macintosh universe. I considered converting some stuff to EPS (postscript) format, but not everyone out there has access to nice postscript printers, such as myself. Since the files are PICTS, it is feasible to convert them to one or more various DOS/Windows formats, but you will loose information in the conversion process. Since I don't have a DOS/Windows machine (insert large grin here), I cannot do the conversion for you, so it is left as an exercise for the user (didn't you hate it when textbooks would do that?). Also, as an added feature, any text in the clip art is provided in the form of bezier outlines, so you don't need to have the fonts on your system. This allows a safe distribution method, as fonts are copyrighted and usually cannot be freely distributed. Most of the advanced graphics software today has the ability to convert outline fonts (PostScript or TrueType) into bezier outlines that can be edited with the application, just as if you had drawn them yourself. Just for the record, I created the artwork using Canvas 3.5, Color-It 2.3.2, Adobe Streamline 3, and Adobe Illustrator 5. Some of the artwork is pre-colored, but you can change that if you like. I have an accellerated Macintosh II (Dove Racer, 32MHz), a vintage DeskWriter inkjet printer, and the Logitech ScanMan. I also find that if you wish to use Avery labels, try to find a box of #5164, which are 3.33" x 4". They come right off of the bottle when you use a little B-Brite cleanser, and some graphics programs support the Avery label formats for templates (mine didn't, however). !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THE FINE PRINT: This collection is released as brew/credit-ware (I know, an awkward term, but you'll see that it fits). If you decide to use any of the clip art from the collection, you must give me, George (Ty) Tempel, partial credit for the artwork and send me a bottle of the homebrew that you've labelled. It's just that simple. No messy fees, etc. Please remember that it is unlawful to send alcohol via the US Postal Service, but private carriers (UPS, FedEx, Airborne, etc), _can_ ship the stuff, just make sure that the brew is securely packaged (try placing the bottles into tight plastic bags just in case...). I have shipped several bottles without problems, but sometimes I label the contents as "food", "yeast culture equipment", or "glassware" and have never had a problem (knock on formica). I can be reached via the following: George Tempel 65 West George Street Freehold, NJ 07728 netromancr at aol.com As of this date, the release of my 3rd collection, not a soul has sent me anything. Nada. I'd at the very least like to hear from you, if it's not too much trouble! Comments and suggestions are welcome, and stay tuned for more collections to be released at later dates! - ------Volume #3 Contents------- BrewArt, vol #3: "Beer" woodcut bottle.pict barrel.pict brewmaster stirring.pict erhlenmeyer flask.pict hopper.pict pilsner woodcut.pict stirring hand.pict thumb.pict woodcut brewvat.pict Read Me First! o3 (this file) - --------------------------- l8r... ty (george tempel, home = netromancr at aol.com) "kiss cats: the dachshund and the deer are one"--wallace stevens Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 May 94 09:02:44 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: Keg fittings >>>>> "Bill" == CCAC-LAD <William> writes: Bill> I have a few pin lock kegs, but I need ball lock fittings. My Bill> question is if I remove the poppet assembly from my pin lock Bill> and buy new ball lock poppet assemblys will the threads match? Bill> The problem is Williams Brewing sells a keg pump that fits on Bill> the ball lock kegs. I would like to use one of these things Bill> but it will not fit my keg. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Absolutely NOT!!! Coke produced the specifications for pin lock fittings specifically so that they had a proprietery size. No portions of any ball lock QD will mate to threads on any pin lock. This is a shame, since there are a number of fittings including NPT threads which go on the top of ball lock QD fittings which are not available for pin lock. I have talked extensively to the Hansen technical people (they make the pin lock fittings) and they had never thought to try to adapt some of the ball lock stuff to pin lock. They thought it would not work, and then tried it to make sure, and sure enough, it does not. Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 May 1994 11:25:33 -0500 From: chp at mail.utexas.edu (Chris Pencis) Subject: Tried and True Porter Recipe Request Hi folks - I'm looking into doing a partial mash or extract Porter and have scanned the literature (Papazian, Miller, Cat_s Meow). Is it just me, or do the Porter recipes seem a little hairbrained to anyone else? Ginger, molasses, chocolate, coffee, chile peppers - I guess I_m more of a beer purist than I realized (beyond the Christmas ales). Does anyone have a tried and true porter recipe which might be good for a first try at a porter?...I_d like to mess with the other stuff after I try a simple, basic one for comparison. Thanks for any input - email to address above please. Please feel free to reference me to recipes found in above literature which you have tried and found worthy of effort. Chris Austin: Capitol of Texas, but more importantly, Beer Capitol of Texas! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 May 94 11:28 EST From: Jack Skeels <0004310587 at mcimail.com> Subject: How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar My apologies for not posting this information earlier: The book: How and Why to Build a Wine Cellar by R. M. Gold; Rev. 1985; 240 pp. Available from: The Wine Appreciation Guild (415) 864-11202 CA- (800) 231-WINE non-CA (800) 242-9462 Jack Skeels JSKEELS at MCIMAIL.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 May 94 12:59:33 CDT From: jhm at texmemsys.com (John McCaskill) Subject: 6.5 gal carboys/ colored glass bottles >Could someone forward the phone/address of the place in Texas that >has the styrofoam packed 7 Gal glass vessels for sale. You can get 6.5 gal carboys for $19.95 from: DeFalco's Home Wine & Beer Supplies 5611 Morningside Houston, Tx. 77005 713-523-8154 They come with a styrofoam base. Now for my two questions. I currently use a plastic primary for one week, then use a 5 gal glass carboy for several weeks, keg and force prime. What would I gain by using a glass primary? Second, Garden Ridge Pottery has a large selection of interesting bottles. However, many of them are colored glass. One that I would like to use has a very light blue green color to it. It is fish shaped, but has a wine bottle top that will take a cork. The problem with lead and brass makes me wonder if I need to be worried about what is used to color the glass. Does any one have any info about this? TIA jhm at texmemsys.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 May 94 12:34:02 EDT From: andrewb6 at aol.com Subject: Distilled vs. Deionized What is the difference in the resultant water between distillation and de-ionization? Do these names apply to two different processes that produce the same thing (i.e. pure water)? My well water has a high iron content (I can taste it-and when the shower's running, I can even smell it), will distillation remove this? Also, on a related issue, in the distillation of water, if chlorine boi ls off at a lower temperature than water, isn't it likely to be condensed right back into the (then) distilled water? What's the skinny on this? Thanks in advance. (private e-mail welcome) Andy (ex cuse my technical ignorance) Baird andrewb6 at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 May 1994 08:17:07 -0700 (PDT) From: gummitch at teleport.com (Jeff Frane) Subject: Anthropology A hearty Thank You! to Thomas Kavanagh, for his very interesting encapsulization of the anthropological discussion of brewing. Good stuff, and well covered. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 May 94 10:45:59 From: bob at epub.rain.com Subject: Bitter ale recipe wanted I would like ask anyone who has a bitter ale extract recipe close to Bass Ale, which if different is on the bitter side - to send it to me personally or post it. I am new new to homebrewing (2batches) and I am looking for a recipe that I can depend on and then experient. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My internet address is "bob at epub.rain.com". Return to table of contents
Date: 6 May 94 18:38:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Frankenbrau/Carbonates/BallvsPin/B-Brite warning/Blackberries Ron writes: >In case you're wondering, the Frankenbrau Cap is Frank's version of a PET >bottle pressure adapter. I've managed to down enough Pepsi in 16oz bottles to Randy Mosher of the Chicago Beer Society has built a couple of these things. My concern about their use is the relatively large surface area of rubber that will be in close proximity to my beer. Besides not being food grade, I'll also bet that it may impart a butyl aroma to the beer after a while. I'll stick with using Carbonators(tm). ******* Jeremy writes: >precipitation of carbonates in the water. Carbonates in the water tend to >acidify it (In the manner of CO2), and this could explain your pH problem, Not quite. Carbon dioxide dissolved in the water (carbonic acid) is acidic, but carbonates are definately not. They will make your water decidedly alkaline. Carbonates in the local water are the primary reason that Dublin, Munich and London originally brewed only dark beers where the acidity of the dark grains worked in concert with the alkalinity of the water to put the mash in the right pH range to get decent conversion. ******* Bill writes: >I have a few pin lock kegs, but I need ball lock fittings. My >question is if I remove the poppet assembly from my pin lock >and buy new ball lock poppet assemblys will the threads match? There are about eight different connectors for 5gallon syrup canisters, half of them ball the other half pin. One of the ball-lock connectors will fit in place of one of the pin-lock connectors. If you are lucky enough to have a keg with the common thread size, then indeed, you can interchange. ****** Jim writes: I use Bbrite. Its the only place in my brewery that I use this stuff. [for sanitizing filters] I leave it in B-brite too. I'd like to advise against storing anything in B-Brite or One-Step. They contain Sodium Percarbonate, which, after a while becomes just Sodium Carbonate. I once soaked bottles overnight in Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) and it left a carbonate precipitate on the bottles. Only soaking in lemon juice water removed it. ********* Ron writes: >full in the next few weeks. I have made Blackberry Ales before from >store bought fruit. Both batches turned out dry. I would like to avoid >this by adding lactose (preparation???) or something else to avoid >the dryness. Thought I might try using a more atten. yeast..... > ...any recomendations on sugars or liquid yeasts ????? No... *less* attenuative yeast -- one that will leave more sugars. Wyeast #1338 (European Ale) is the least attenuative of all the Wyeasts. Lactose will sweeten it, but I suspect that your dryness was lactobacillus from the fruit (I believe that freezing won't kill them) and they definately can eat Lactose. You can try sanitation by freezing and then blanching or try Camden tablets. Once you kill the lactobacillus you can sweeten with Lactose. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 May 94 14:11:53 MDT From: pjd at craycos.com (Phil Duclos) Subject: Pumps I spotted an advertisement recently in Nuts & Volts Magazine for a small stainless steel pump. The ad reads as follows: Pump, Fluid, magnetically coupled, stainless steel body, self priming 115VAC pumps approximately 3 liters per minute suitable for RF cooling, fountains, etc. Used, reconditioned, like new $75 PPD. Mike's Surplus Stuff, 800-769-7977 9pm-midnight EST I called Mike and asked about his pumps. He said that they were removed from commercial inkjet printers. They have universal motors, some are 220VAC, and are reconditioned. I asked in what way were they reconditioned. Mike said that they are cleaned and tested. He also said that they have 1/4" inlet and outlets and were made by Tuthill Pump Co of CA. He did not know what the impellers were made of. The model number of the pump he had in his hand was D9879CWFK. I called Tuthill Pump Co of CA and talked with Ron Tate. Ron decoded the model number and came up with: C = Carbon Teflon filled PPS (trade name Ryton) drive and driven gears W = no bypass F = ????? (Perhaps E? E = Ethylene Propylene) O-ring seals K = Carbon bearings The gear shafts are 316 Stainless. The bottom line is that these are positive displacement gear pumps capable of substantial pressure, low flowrate, made of materials which should be compatible with most chemicals encountered in brewing. They should be suitable for use in a small home brewery. Universal motors have brushes, which eventually wear out, but also have the advantage that they can be speed controller by a simple rheostat and can run on either AC or DC. phil duclos pjd at craycos.com pjd at clouds.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 May 1994 14:02:59 -0700 (PDT) From: mcullen at netcom.com (Michael Cullen) Subject: More Lead... kinda My first post, and it deals with work... In HBD#1417 John Palmer & Norm were talking about Jack Scmidling having his EM nickel plated. The nitric acids, and all the cleaning processes are very closely watched in a plating house. Poor cleaning leads to poor adhesion. A "peeler" is akin to a cardinal sin. Think of it as if you gave a friend a 6-pack of infected/flat HB. :^( (you feel stupid, and end up doing it again free) Moral: dont worry, the lead is covered (thats why they pay us the Big Bucks) (how do you make a sarcastic smile?) -mike Return to table of contents
Date: 6 May 1994 15:31:35 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Chlorine Bleach and Stainless Hi Group. Well, in response to a few requests of my Stainless and Chlorine /treatise/, I dug it up from under the short leg of my desk. (from last year) In the recent post by Ed Hitchcock, he mentioned the current HBD wisdom of not using Bleach (chlorine) in Stainless Steel kegs and the current interest in iodine. I checked out the Metals Handbook Vol. 13- Corrosion, on Chlorine and Stainless and here is what I found. Chlorine (aqueous) is highly corrosive to austenitic stainless steels, which includes the 304 alloy most commonly used for Food Grade containers. The mechanism of corrosion homebrewers mostly have to be concerned with is Pitting Corrosion. This is caused by localized concentration of chlorine ions. Those ions become concentrated by evaporation of water containing chlorine. The corrosion is manifested as tiny pits which, due to increased relative concentration of the chlorine in the pit to the surrounding environment, quickly put pinholes in your tanks. To prevent this type of corrosion, the key is good rinsing of the bleach water from the steel. First off, let me say that the 1+ tablespoon bleach per gallon (4ml/liter) is not much in the context of the industrial corrosion that the Metals Handbook is written to. Most of what I read dealt with continuous flow through pipes, etc. Anyway, If you rinse with warm boiled water until you don't really smell it, and then prevent water droplets on the sides by either filling the keg with beer or drying them out with a towel, you will not have the localized concentration necessary to induce pitting. One other thing that can be done with Stainless Steel is passivation. A 20% by volume solution of (HNO3) Nitric Acid will ensure a uniform oxide film which will prevent the localized concentration/activity difference which initiates this form of galvanic corrosion. But I don't think this should be necessary. (end) Additional information: Storing bleach water for more than a couple hours is not advised. One brewer experienced thru-pinholes at the waterline of his stainless pot when he let is sit for several days. The corrosion rate is not lightening fast, but any pinhole that starts to form will only get deeper with repeated exposure. When left to sanitize, the keg should be as full as possible so that there is no waterline or other surface energy transition that will set up the corrosion reaction. Corrosion attack is dependant on concentration, so do not exceed the 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of bleach concentration. I believe I read that these concentrations are effective sanitizers for a 20 minute period. Reading over this, I realize it is not the most favorable commentary; so let me pose this parallel: Your local community swimming pools have at least as much chlorine smell to the water as this concentration, and the stainless steel ladders submerged in those pools last for years. So, Sanitize, rinse with boiled water, and you should have zero problems. John Palmer- metallurgist, patriot, brewer, & Tiger fan. palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com OR palmer#d#john.ssd-hb_#l#15&22#r# at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 May 1994 19:09:12 -0400 (EDT) From: PNEUMAND at delphi.com Subject: Lower Calorie Beer This is my first posting after having read the HBD for about a month and brewing for about 6 months. I am basically an extract brewer (due to a >full time job) who sometimes infiltrates specialty grains while heating the boil water. Unfortunately, I have noticed several effects from homebrewing that were not evident with store-bought beers; 1. Belly getting bigger 2. Head in morning getting heavier Is there any experiences out there to aid my plight? I LOOOOOOOOVE the full beer taste & don't want to lighten things up too much. Will filtering reduce the hangover effects? Will adding rice (wince) or diluting(wince also) help the belly? [diluting(wince also) help the belly? What exactly is it that the big boys do to make a light beer? Is there some way to make a "better" light beer via homebrew methods? TIA for any; (1) Postings (2) Private Responses (3) Pointers to published Sources \|/ \|/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 May 1994 21:38:46 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au> Subject: Priming sugar question - no, really! Whud id iz: Hi there, so sorry but somehow I managed to screw up in trying to post this question in HBD #1418. Too much relaxing while driving the info superhighway, no doubt. Let's try again, shall we? I am wondering about the differences between various priming sugars. I just bottled my second Australian batch, after which I noticed that the fine print on the bag of "brewer's sugar" said that the contents were dextrose, derived from wheat starch, and not glucose, which is what I have used in the past. OK, so the print was an inch tall. Please don't shoot me, but I don't have a bottling bucket and simply prime each bottle individually with 1/2 tsp. Anyway, after 9 days in the bottle, the first of these batches has only a mild "pffft" when uncapped, with nil carbonation (flavor is great though--nothing else is wrong). I know it needs another couple weeks conditioning, but in my experience with glucose, beers like this one (fairly robust pale ale) are much more carbonated at this stage. Am I doomed to undercarbonation with these two batches? (BTW, the other is a stout.) Private email preferred, if it's worth it I'll post a summary. Thanks a lot, I'll try not to screw up any more posts. Cheers, Dave in Sydney - -- ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University ddraper at laurel.ocs.mq.edu.au NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia Fax: +61-2-805-8428 Voice: +61-2-805-8347 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 May 94 08:38:17 EDT From: btalk at aol.com Subject: spruce beer Pete Figura asks about making Spruce ale. My advice is GO LIGHTLY on the spruce. I followed Papazian's Spruce ale recipe and it was so 'sprucy' as to be undrinkable. One judge commented 'I could drink only one sip'. And people think being a judge gets lets you taste alot of great beer ;) Bob Talkiewicz <btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 May 94 06:59:15 -0600 From: staib at oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don Staib ) Subject: Extract Rick Well, I recommend you send an email message to mgaretz at hoptech.com and ask Mark Garetz of HopTech for some Blueberry extract and a catalog. Also, 1 800 DRY-HOPS will get them. Mark's company specalizes in Hops, has some great prices, and does hop oils, essences, and extracts. His fruit extracts which come in Raspberry, BLUEBERRY, Cherry, Peach and Pear are the same extract used by commercial breweries. 100% fruit flavor, with no preservatives. I have used his Raspberry may times, and have tried the peach once. If you go for it, let me know how the blueberry turns out! Don Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 May 94 07:16:00 -0600 From: staib at oodis01.hill.af.mil (Maj Don Staib ) Subject: Budvar "Budweiser" labels Thanks for the response to my posting offering the original Budweiser "Budvar" labels for those who would send a SASE. I have had a lot of fun communicating with the respondees, however, I haven't heard from quite a number of those that said would write, and I wouldn't want to give YOUR label set away, so if the 18 HBD members who messaged me and reserved your place in line would take this as a reminder...Thanks. BTW, I have been including a set of Erdinger Weisbier labels and an European beer coaster, just because! I even traded some coasters with a couple interested parties. Keep up the Homebrewing. The Braumeister in Layton, Utah! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 May 1994 11:01:14 -0400 (EDT) From: Kinney Baughman <BAUGHMANKR at conrad.appstate.edu> Subject: Legalities of a pub Subject: Local Pub wants my beer. >any details as to the legalities of this? The first stop should be your state Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms. You'll need a brewery license, you'll need to be bonded, you'll probably need a label, even if you keg, and it has to be approved by the boys in Washington (a nontrivial procedure). Depending on where you are and how familiar the state authorities are with handling brewpub licenses, it'll take you a minimum of 2 months, probably 6 months, to get a license. I think our license in NC cost a $1000. The Microbrewers Resource Directory from the Association of Brewers in Boulder is the best one-stop resource for start-up info for small breweries. Check out the catalog in the middle of Zymurgy for ordering info. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Kinney Baughman | Beer is my business and baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu | I'm late for work. - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 May 1994 12:02:05 -0400 (EDT) From: VIALEGGIO at ccmail.sunysb.edu Subject: Fullers/Yeast? State University of New York at Stony Brook Stony Brook, NY 11794-5475 Victor Ialeggio Music 516 632-7239 06-May-1994 11:54am EDT FROM: VIALEGGIO TO: Remote Addressee ( _homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com ) Subject: Fullers/Yeast? Has anyone cultured & brewed with yeast from Fullers ESB? TIA Victor vialeggio at ccmail.sunysb.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 May 1994 11:45:32 EDT From: Bob Bessette <bessette at uicc.com> Subject: Full-boil extract brew questions... I just received my new BCI converted SANKEY keg in the mail and it's in great shape. Thanks for all of you who suggested going this route. I plan on purchasing a King Cooker in the next week. I bought this in anticipation of going to all-grain. What I would like to do first though is do an extract brew but with a full boil so I can get used to the King Cooker and using a wort chiller before I add mashing to the process. I'm also interested in any taste differences with a full-boil extract brew vs my boil 2 gallons and add water later brew. Can any of you out there give me any pointers about this. I really don't know how much water to use with a full boil? I assume I want to use in the range of 7 gallons since an hour boil will lead to some evaporation. I would like to hear any ideas out there. I think after this full boil extract I will be ready to mash and all-grain it. Maybe I'm wimpin' out but I want to get a feel for all of this new equipment before I do an all-grain batch. By the way, maybe I'm a little slow but can someone tell me what BTW and YMMV means stands for? I feel as if I'm missing something here and I'm actually a little embarrased to ask. Bob Bessette (future all-grainer...) bessette at uicc.com Systems Analyst Unitrode Integrated Circuits Merrimack, NH 03087 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 May 1994 16:37:00 -0400 From: carlo.fusco at canrem.com (Carlo Fusco) Subject: Thanks about hop tea Thanks to everyone who helped me upping the bitterness of my brew. I tried the hop tea idea...boiled 1 oz Goldings in 2 liters of water for 45 min. All I can say is WOW!. It made the beer quite bitter, and added a whole new hop flavour to the brew. I like it alot and I am considering doing it regularely. Adding the hop tea really shows you what flavours and aromas are driven off during fermentation. Cheers Carlo - --- * Freddie 1.2.5 * email: carlo.fusco at canrem.com Sharon,Ontario,Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 May 1994 17:32:32 -0400 (EDT) From: ELTEE at delphi.com Subject: Astringent stout & Ca About a week ago I posted here about the Dark Sleep Stout that was astringent/bitter. It was suggested that it was from following the recipe by boiling grains for 5 min and adding 8 teaspoons gypsum. Thanks for all the help. I brought a sample into work and measured the Ca ppm with an AA. I got 240 ppm. What is the proper range for stouts? BTW, this stuff diluted FIFTY TIMES still was darker than megaswill! hoppy brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 May 94 13:03:00 -0800 From: jim.king at kandy.com (Jim King) Subject: Homebrew Digest #1417 (Ma Kent Porter said: H>Last night (5/3) I had a sobering experience with my Jet (tm) bottle w H>(J-shaped brass tube with push-down on/off valve; attaches to faucet.) H>For the first time in 2 years of monthly use, the valve did not shut o H>when I removed a bottle. The very hot H2O that wasn't deflected by my H>hit the ceiling, cupboards, walls and cats. Hearing all this trouble, and that of the bottle breaking because of temperature differences, I can't help but think that there is no reason to be using hot tap water through your Jet washer. Your tap water is not hot enough to kill any nasties, so the benefit of the washer is purely that of the scrubbing action of the high pressure spray. You might as well just be using cold or luke-warm water. This is one of the reasons that you need to sanitize before filling. Jim King jim.king at kandy.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 May 1994 18:57:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Jonny Miner <woof at eskimo.com> Subject: Peanut Butter!! Alright, someone mentioned it last issue, and now I can hold my silence no longer. Has anyone out there brewed with my favorite food - peanut butter!? I figure if we can discuss brewing with Count Chocula, anything goes. - --Jonny B-) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 May 94 20:33:46 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Wort Boiler for Sale (maybe) I would like to redesign my wort boiler, but need to sell my current one first. If someone is interested in purchasing my current boiler, it will be available just as soon as I make the new one. 15.5 gal. straight sided keg with handles (like new shape) hole cut in top 8" SS nipple silver soldered in side Fitting welded in side to accept thermometer 3" bimetal thermometer It can be all yours for $70 plus shipping. dion Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 09:27 CDT From: arf at mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: Cheap Trick >Subject: JS is wrong!, Split the HBD, and oh yeah Extraction rates >Sorry about the misleading subject title, it was a cheap trick to get attention. Worked like a charm. I didn't respond because I didn't read it the first time and far less importantly, I haven't a clue as to the answers to all your questions. However, as you did get my attention, I have some thoughts on the subject in general. >Extraction rates (e.g. 35 points/(lb/gal) for pale malt) are based on 100% efficiency. But when do you get 100% efficiency from a mash ? Just for the record, the last time I used DK pale ale malt, I got an extract of 37 pts/lb/gal. That's 106% for those not inclined toward heavy math. I believe most of this is based on data published in one book from measurements made on specific malts at some point in time and with some particular set of conditions, equipment and process. No doubt others have done similar measurements and there may be a wealth of data somewhere but my guess is that the variations in malt from lot to lot, supplier to supplier and variations in process, technique and equipment make this method of evaluating efficiency about as useful as arguing about how many angels can dance on the head of a pin. It also throws in an additional confusion factor that makes it difficult for brewers to compare the actual results of their efforts with results published by others. From a practical stand point, all one needs to know is the gravity of a gallon of wort produced by a pound of whatever malt is in question. To extrapolate that real number into a mythical percentage of a variable number, seems a bit silly and counter productive. js Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 12:41:32 MDT From: "Mark B. Alston" <c-amb at math.utah.edu> Subject: Re: CTSP info Chlorinated Trisodium Phosphate is made by making a 12 mole solution of TSP and adding 5% sodium hypochlorite (bleach) crystals. As the mixture crystallizes, the sodium hypochlorite is bound by the water of hydration. You cannot make CTSP by just adding bleach to TSP. O.K. so CTSP is not simply TSP+Chlorine. But do we know what the practical diffences are? What does this binding mean to me as a homebrewer. I.e., assuming that bleach is not safe, why is CTSP safer on stainless than TSP+Bleach. John Palmer wrote in digest 1221 that what we as homebrewers need to watch out for is localized concentrations of chlorine. He suggested that we rinse with warm boiled water and then either fill the keg with beer or dry it out with paper towels. In this manner we should not have dropplets where the concentration of clorine is much higher than the surrounding areas. Keeping this in mind, does the binding in CTSP act as a wetting agent so that we keep the solution from forming droplets? Assuming that we can trust John Palmer, it seems unnecessary to use CTSP at all. A simple chlorine rinse would seem to work fine (and be much cheaper). Anyone care to fill in the gaps? Mark Alston (c-amb at math.utah.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 08 May 1994 15:14:02 EDT From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY) Subject: Using Grains in Extract recipes I have a question I hope someone out there can answer. Is there any benefit to using grains in an Extract beer recipe? Example using: Munich Malt, Crystal Malt, 2-Row..ect..ect Or will I only get color from these grains and no real benefit without mashing them Larry KMYH09A at prodigy.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 08 May 1994 15:14:06 EDT From: KMYH09A at prodigy.com ( LARRY KELLY) Subject: Beginner in Mashing HELP ME! I would like to start to learn how to become a "Grain Brewer". I'm an extract brewer with 20 brews under my belt. I have read numerous messages and files concerning All Grain Brewing, but I'm confused when I comes to Sparging. and use of a Lafturn. Here's my understanding (correct me if I'm wrong) I place the grains into a bucket, with false bottom (one bucket with zillion holes within another bucket) or pot add water at 1qt h20 to 1 lb grain. Hold at the respective temps for the respective times to mash the grains. (Can I mash several types of grains together?) Then pour hot water over the grains (how much water?), then let the colored water (wort) that comes out go into my brew pot. I read somewhere that you keep adding water to the mashed grains until the wort runs clear?? How do I know what the OG reading should be? Then proceed as I would as in extract brewing How can I figure out the effective rate of my mashing? Help me if anyone can! Or explain it to me in SIMPLE ENGLISH terms. And what equipment do I need to buy to "Mash and Sparge" Damn, I'm confused!!!!!!!!!!!! Larry KMYH09A at prodigy.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 15:00:30 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: CTSP info >>>>> "Mark" == Mark B Alston <c-amb at math.utah.edu> writes: Mark> O.K. so CTSP is not simply TSP+Chlorine. But do we know what the Mark> practical diffences are? What does this binding mean to me as a Mark> homebrewer. I.e., assuming that bleach is not safe, why is CTSP safer Mark> on stainless than TSP+Bleach. Mark> Mark Alston Mark> (c-amb at math.utah.edu) Not the point at all, Mark. I never said or implied that. Bleach is just fine, but it is not a good cleaner, CTSP is. Therefore, I can clean and sanitize with a single product. That is the only reason I use CTSP instead of bleach. If you never have anything which needs cleaning, stick to bleach for sanitizing. Dion Hollenbeck (619)675-4000x2814 Email: hollen at megatek.com Staff Software Engineer Megatek Corporation, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 17:20:04 CST From: rsharris at students.wisc.edu Subject: Carrot alcohol This weekend I was getting the urge to brew something - anything - and I found some carrots. I juiced up a gal, heated 2 cups to boiling and added to kill bacteria, then added some champange yeast. After 12 hours it was bubbling like crazy. Because it's such a sweet juice I figured there would be alot of fermentable sugars. So what have I made? Does anybody care? I know that there will be some type of alcoholic drink produced, but what is it? I'm going to give it a few weeks then rack it and let it settle for a few more. If anybody has suggestions let me know. I'll post the results and any recommendations sent to me. Robb S. Harris ****************************************************************** * Robb S. Harris * * rsharris at students.wisc.edu * * * * If I found myself on another planet * * I'd probably be a holy sandwich-maker * ****************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 May 94 16:51:26 PDT From: hollen at megatek.com (Dion Hollenbeck) Subject: Re: SOLD: Wort Boiler for Sale (maybe) >>>>> "Dion" == Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at megatek.com> writes: Dion> 15.5 gal. straight sided keg with handles (like new shape) Dion> hole cut in top Dion> 8" SS nipple silver soldered in side Dion> Fitting welded in side to accept thermometer Dion> 3" bimetal thermometer This has been sold. dion Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 May 1994 00:41:36 -0400 (EDT) From: "David B. Ebenstein" <debenste at moose.uvm.edu> Subject: Stainless pot source?? We're looking for a large (ca. 5 gal) stainless steel pot for a brewing buddy's birthday. There is a restaurant supply in town, but if anyone knows of a good MAIL-ORDER SOURCE for relatively cheap pots, that info would be appreciated. Dave Ebenstein "Malt does more than Milton can, (a Green Mountain Masher) to justify God's ways to man." Clinical Research Center, University of Vermont e-mail: debenste at moose.uvm.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1419, 05/09/94