HOMEBREW Digest #1492 Thu 04 August 1994
Digest #1491
Digest #1493
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Decoction? (braddw)
homebrewing in France? (Allan Rubinoff)
Wyeast 1968 ESB (Norm Hardy)
milky spore/beetles (Roger Lepine)
Hops and etymology - a REALLY useless post 8~) (Dan Strahs)
sanitation/off flavors/aging (Victor Franklin)
Please Resend. Amber now w ("AMBER")
Re: BruProbe/JB Distributing (Jim Grady)
Mayville, WI brewers? ("Charles S. Jackson")
Cleveland, Kriek, & Suds (Bill Rust)
outdoor brewer to be (BToddL69)
Chlorine/Bisulfite (Philip Gravel)
Please Resend ("OAKQM3")
Please Resend ("OAKQM3")
yeast info (ANDY WALSH)
Wicked yeasties (Matthew Reagan)
INBOX Message (See Below) (Mailer.MC1)
Hopping steam beers (David Draper)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue Aug 2 14:52:01 1994
From: braddw at rounder.rounder.com
Subject: Decoction?
I Tuesday's (8/2) digest the following statement was posted. I'm not
entirely sure who is speaking here but, nonetheless it's got me confused.
>Date: Mon, 1 Aug 94 12:34:05 PDT
>From: berkun at decwet.enet.dec.com
>Subject: Mash & Sparge Times
Is this the person speaking below?
>My (respondent's) process is like this: mash store ground grain in
>picnic cooler (same as yours)for about 2 hours, stirring about every 20
>mins or so then doing 2 temp steps (temps depend on style of beer)
>taking first runnings for a decoction mash for both (boiling the first
>runnings and then adding them back to the mash to raise temp). I then
>sparge, trying to keep about 2" of water above the top of the grain as
>i'm sparging. adjust the outflow to comnpensate for this. I recycle the
>wort as I feel, (if i stir vigorously, or I'm using poorly ((floury))
>ground grain) recycling more to clear cloudier wort.
Exactly what is decoction mashing? It was my understanding that a
portion of the grist was boiled and then returned to the mash, and this
statement suggests that just the first runnings being boiled and and
returned is the method. Is there a decoction FAQ? Am I missing
something? If so, please forgive my naivete.
**** ---- "There's always time for a Homebrew!" ---- ****
C|~~| ----------------------------------------------- C|~~|
`--' --------------braddw at rounder.com------------- `--'
-------------------------------------------
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 94 14:55:27 EDT
From: Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff at BBN.COM>
Subject: homebrewing in France?
One of my coworkers in our company's Paris office is interested in
homebrewing. I offered to try to find out about homebrewing in France.
Specifically, the answers to these questions:
- Is homebrewing legal in France? If so, are there many homebrewers?
- Are homebrewing books available there? (English is OK.)
- Where does one get equipment and ingredients?
Thanks in advance for any information. If you don't think the answers
are of general interest, please e-mail me directly.
-Allan Rubinoff <rubinoff at bbn.com>
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 94 13:10 PDT
From: norm at polstra.com (Norm Hardy)
Subject: Wyeast 1968 ESB
I tried to post a long ditty on the 1968 yeast but it bounced back, so
here is the short version: it is HIGHLY flocculant and makes a
wonderful cask conditioned beer, ready in record time.
I ferment the primary in a 7 gallon carboy and after 2 days of ferment,
I roused the carboy around and got the stuff to settle out even faster.
There is no problem in this because the CO2 has pushed all the oxygen
out of the carboy.
I made two batches with the 1968: a OG 1.040 ESB and a OG 1.032 brown
mild. Both came out smooth with a nice finish. This is one fine yeast!
Norm Hardy, Seattle
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 94 16:35:42 EDT
From: Roger Lepine <lepine at hpanrd.an.hp.com>
Subject: milky spore/beetles
The following excerpt was taken without permission from National Gardening
Magazine dated August 1990.
Pest Control
Japanese Beetles / by Lee Reich
The milky way
It's ironic that the two popular methods of Japanese beetle control
-trapping and milky spore disease- are of dubious effectiveness. Yellow
traps baited with scent or sex attractants are familiar sights in backyards,
and in fact are very efficient in attracting adult beetles. The problem is
that Japanese beetles are good fliers, so the traps draw more beetles into
an area than are captured. The result: plant damage can actually INCREASE!
Milky spore is a bacterial disease(caused by Bacillus popillae) that kills
the grubs. (skip stuff)
Though milky spore infects grubs in the laboratory, ongoing research
suggests that in the field it may not work well, especially in cold soils,
such as those found in New England. Today's guidelines are based largely on
USDA research of a half century ago. But those scientists inundated large
areas with spores, and their inoculant was manufactured by a different
method. (end of excerpt).
I have found where I live (New England) that this stuff has no affect on
beetles. I also understand (from our groundskeeper here at work) that the
conditions must be almost perfect for the spore to work anywhere, such as
moist soil, warmer winters, or an abundance of grubs.
Furthur on in the article he makes a statement that I agree with whole
heartedly, "But remember that plants (and hopefully,you) can tolerate some
damage, so there's no need to spray at the first sign of attack."
Large portions of my hop leaves are missing or full of bullet holes.
Will this effect my yield? I doubt it. I'll let them have some leaves if
they leave me some flowers.
The gentleman who had had his vines completely stripped has a battle on
his hands and should try everything (except companion planting ie. marigolds
etc. these things don't work IMHO).
And finally, I've found that these beetles have a much greater preference
for my grapevines and roses than for my hops. Maybe some of you people
could throw in a vine or bush somewhere and let the bugs have their way with
them.
roger l.
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 1994 14:57:05 -0500 (EST)
From: Dan Strahs <STRAHS at msvax.mssm.edu>
Subject: Hops and etymology - a REALLY useless post 8~)
Given the recent discussion about where the word 'hops' comes from,
I pulled my American Heritage Dictionary off the shelf, ignored the smell of
mildew and checked on our favorite flower.
Hop (weird characters) - Any of several twining vines of the genus
Humulus; especially H. lupulus, having lobed leaves and green,
conelike flowers. Plural - the dried, ripe flowers of this
plant, containing a bitter, aromatic oil and used in brewing
beer [Middle English hoppe, from Middle Dutch. see 'skeup-'
in Appendix*]
This appendix is compilation of Indo-European root words. So...
skeup-: Cluster, tuft, hair of the head. 1) Germanic 'skauf-',
Old English 'sceaf-' bundle, sheaf. 2) Germanic 'skuft-',
Old Norse 'skoft' hair of the head, scruff 3) Germanic
'hupp' Middle Dutch 'hoppe' the hop plant (having tuftlike
inflorescence).
The reference the dictionary gives for this interpretation of the
Indo-European root is Julius Pokorny's 'Indogermanisches Etymologisches
Worterbuch' published in Bern, 1959.
I make no claims as to the accuracy of the dictionary or the
interpretations of (possibly) long-deceased authorities. But it makes sense
to me. After all, hops do go to your head 8~).
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 13:49:54 -0700
From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com>
Subject: The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing
The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing
By Richard B. Webb, the Brews Brother's 1993 Homebrewer of the year
The purpose of this guide is to give you the brewer all the information
you need to
strike off into unknown territory, and to help you become the ultimate
brewing god. In it, I
will try to communicate my brewing philosophy and techniques. In short,
I will teach you the summation of everything I know about brewing and life!
Zymurgy (pronounced Zi-mer-gee, with the i pronounced like 'eye')
is the study of
living, organic chemistry. It seeks to use and manipulate chemical
compounds (such as
salts and sugars), living organisms (yeast), and a universal solvent
(water!) to create a
pleasant tasting, psychoactive substance called alcohol.
Alcohol is a drug, similar to many
other drugs that every culture known to man has used to expand the
consciousness,
commune with the gods, or just to catch a buzz. Alcohol in general,
and beer in
particular, may have been the driving force behind the eventual civilizing
of the beast,
man. After all, without fermentables, there is no alcohol, and without
cultivation, and
therefore civilization, there are precious few fermentables. Some
societies come by their
alcohol requirements the hard way, doing all kinds of mean, nasty,
stupid things to make
it. In modern times, and with modern methods, you and I can drink
like kings, if not like gods.
The word alcohol describes a range of molecules, formed from carbon,
oxygen, and
hydrogen atoms. These molecules are formed by the metabolization of
certain sugars by
living organisms, called yeast, leaving roughly equal
parts alcohol and carbon dioxide as
a by-product. We use this special ability of the yeast to make various
types of beverages which include alcohol.
Equipment
1. All grain brewing:
What new equipment do I need?
1.1. Boiling pots
The process for all grain brewing is actually pretty easy. If you
are an extract brewer
now, you probably have the beginnings of an equipment pile already.
An extract brewer
can get away with a three or four gallon boiling container, but this
is just a spittoon to
serious all grain brewers. The first thing that you need for all grain
brewing is a larger
boiler. All grain brewing typically produces a gallon of water for
every three or four
pounds of grain, and it doesn't take much grain before the volumes
of water begin to
strain that old coffee cup of a boiler. My first bit of advice is
to invest in a large boiler,
the bigger the better, with a minimum of seven gallons is best. You
may find yourself
outgrowing even that size of boiler as your brewing plans become more
ambitious, so
consider getting an even bigger pot to start with.
Stainless steel pots are ideal for brewing, but they can be a bit
pricy. My first big
boiler was an aluminum stock pot, coming to the scale at around eight
gallons, but I
wasn't very happy with it. The aluminum scratched easily, and stained
too readily.
Cleaning it up took up layers off the bottom, and fears of excessive
intake of molecular
aluminum led to the eventual discarding of the pot. If you do use
aluminum, do not use it
to store wort for very long. The acidity of wort often dissolves the
aluminum, leading to discoloration or worse.
An alternative to stainless steel is enameled steel. This is made
by heating a glaze
onto the surface of a cheaper type of steel kettle. This can work
for you, but remember
that any chip in the enamel that exposes the underlying steel will
allow that steel to begin
rusting. My advice? Find a used stainless steel mega-pot and use it
until you feel the need to upgrade.
1.2. Cooling systems
Your old small boiler may have fit just fine in a sink filled with
cold water and ice for
cooling the wort after boiling, but your bigger boiler will never
fit. If you don't have one
already, invest in a wort chiller/heat exchanger of some sort, or
better yet, learn to make
your own. They are frightfully easy to make, and if you can get other
people interested,
you can sell wort chillers that you've made to them. I prefer the
copper coil immersion
wort chillers myself. As the hot wort is cooled rapidly, proteinaceous
matter (also called
floating junk) condenses and precipitates out of solution. An immersion
type chiller
allows this stuff to settle out to the bottom of the boiling pot before
it is transferred to
the fermentation containers. If you get really creative, you can build
a couple of wort
chillers and chain them together, with the first chiller immersed
in a bath of ice water,
pre-cooling the water before it begins to chill your hot wort.
Immersion chillers are best kept clean prior to use, and are sterilized
by placing into
the wort while it is still hot. If there is any water inside the chiller,
especially if there are
also air bubbles inside, the heat from the kettle will force the water
out of the chiller. Watch your shoes!
Another type of chiller is called a counter-flow chiller. This tube
inside a tube
system allows the draining of hot wort through a copper tube whose
outside is being
cooled by water. The picture formed is the opposite of the immersion
chiller where the
wort is on the outside of the tube, with coolant water flowing through
the tubing. The
counter-flow chiller has the advantage of siphoning the wort from
the boiling container
into a fermenter at the same time as it is being cooled, saving a
step of transfer later on.
This idea is seductive, especially if you have no better way to transfer
cool wort to the fermenters in the first place.
The use and care of the counter-flow chiller is a little more involved
than the
immersion chiller. Because the counter-flow chiller is much more efficient
at cooling
the wort flowing through it, the proteinaceous matter that precipitates
out of solution
tends to stick to the sides of the tube. Care must be taken to completely
flush this matter
out of the tube prior to the next use. Failure to do so will ensure
that your next batch of
wort will be contaminated by nasty beasties growing in your chiller
between batches.
Proper cleaning of the chiller involves back flushing the tube with
a series of nasty
chemical baths which themselves leave residue which may taint future
batches!
I guess you can tell which kind of chiller system I prefer. The system
you pick depends
on what your priorities are. You can choose high efficiency, balanced
against the need for
intensive cleaning protocol, or you can accept a lower efficiency,
easier cleaning system.
In either case, pick a system that works for you and your brewing
system.
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 13:40:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: uswnvg!vfrankl at uunet.uu.net (Victor Franklin)
Subject: sanitation/off flavors/aging
Hi everyone!
A friend and I are having a small disagreement about the necessity of
strict sanitation practices. He doesn't get the HBD so I am trying to
explain some of the information to him. I have even gone as far as making
copies of posts and giving them to him. He is unswayed. He isn't nearly as
tedious/anal about it (sanitation) as I am and he has never had an
infected batch! So I can't really tell him he is doing something wrong.
My question is this: what types of off flavors are caused by lack of
sanitation, HSA, or general poor handling of beer?
-and-
Will some of these or all of these flavors mellow or disappear over time?
also does hop flavor/aroma get stonger or softer over time?
My friends ages his beer about 3 or 4 months in his kegs before he drinks
it. So I am thinking that possibly the reason he has to age it this long
before it tastes good is because he doesn't treat the beer well and it
takes time for the strange flavors to disappear. Could this be the case?
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The keg FAQ says to age for at least two weeks for a normal (ale) type
beer. Why would he need to age his so long before it is any good?
any posts to the HBD or private are much appreciated!
Victor Franklin
vfrankl at uswnvg.com
Return to table of contents
Date: 2 Aug 1994 06:05:27 U
From: "AMBER" <AMBER at amber.spawar.navy.mil>
Subject: Please Resend. Amber now w
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Homebrew Digest #1490
(August 02,
!!!! Original Message >= 24K; See following enclosure.
Preview follows !!!!
HOMEBREW Digest #1490 Tue 02 August 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
INBOX Message (See Below) (Mailer.MC1)
Cascades in Anchor Steam clone??? (Dick Dunn)
Wyeast ESB 1968 and Sodium Metabisulphite (ANDY
WALSH)
5 liter mini-keg questions (John Williams)
Harvesting Hops ("Pamela J. Day 7560")
Re: Cold Box Paint (Tel +44 784 443167)
mild ale recipe request (Patrick Casey)
Re: nano-review of bacteria (brewing chemist Mitch)
Japanese Beetles (John DeCarlo x7116
)
Re: Attenuation/weizens (Jim Busch)
Archive Info (npyle)
Yeast Culturing (Terry Terfinko)
English pub info (Jim Dipalma)
Jim Koch/SA Double Bock (Bob Guerin)
IBU's (Douglas R. Jones)
French Canada info needed (Miu Wang)
Various Topics / Feedback Requested (Louis K.
Bonham)
Bittering without hops (Sean C. Cox)
Randy's Fun Hunter Club ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
Oregon brew spots (Marc Hugentobler)
calling all aussies (Steve Peters)
Mash & Sparge Times (berkun)
brewpubs (jehartzl)
Hops (Douglas R. Jones)
Saxer lemon lager (John Loegering)
Re: Canned Beer, HBD #1489 (August 01, 1994)
("Christopher V. Sack")
'-acation-va' programs Are OK (Conan-the-Librarian)
Plastic Fermenter Help Neede (Phil Miller)
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 94 20:14:25 EDT
From: Jim Grady <grady at hpangrt.an.hp.com>
Subject: Re: BruProbe/JB Distributing
Spencer Thomas had some questions about my BruProbe post so I figured he
is not the only one. Here is his question and my reply:
>
> It's not clear from your post (nor, exactly, from the article), but
> does one still have to buy all the parts (except the probe) for the
> circuit, and assemble it?
>
The BruProbe consists of the brass wand with the temperature sensor,
a 2 kohm resistor (to prevent ringing), a cable that goes from the
end of the BruProbe to the display circuitry, and a 3-pin, male DIN
connector. J.B. Distributing also provides a mating connector with
the wand so you can easily connect it to your circuitry. BTW, the
article incorrectly states that the sensor is the LM34D; it is the
LM34C which the author seems to recommend since it has an expanded
temperature range. The wand is $20.
J.B. Distributing also sells a PC board for making a circuit that
will display the temperature. It is a bare PC board with
instructions for putting it together and a parts list for ordering
the parts from Digi-Key. The circuit is made up of a voltmeter chip
an LCD display and some support components. When I learned that the
output of the BruProbe was 10 mV/deg F, I decided to just buy a
digital multimeter instead (I can put it to other good uses).
Even though I only bought the BruProbe, J.B. Distributing gave me all
the instructions to help me power the probe properly and get the
connections right.
I hope this clears up any confusion.
- --
Jim Grady
grady at hp-mpg.an.hp.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 94 21:08:00 CDT
From: "Charles S. Jackson" <sjackson at ftmcclln-amedd.army.mil>
Subject: Mayville, WI brewers?
I am asking this for my good friend and brewing buddy who is quite
computer challenged (does not even own one) but is looking for any brewers in
the Mayville, WI area. He, like me, is new to brewing and looking for a local
"big brother" to admire (spelled p-e-s-t-e-r) and look up to. I promised him
I would ask. So it is done!
Secondly, it seems as if, almost on a daily basis, I see another state
listed where brewing is illegal. I just saw that CA forbids such activity. To
date I count Mississippi, Colorado, Utah, California (?) and this fine state I
live in: Alabama. Are there others? Thanks for all of the help I have
received from this digest.
Steve a.k.a. The Alabama Outlaw
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brewing beer is far more exciting when it is both a hobby AND a felony!
The Alabama Outlaw
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 2 Aug 94 20:50:00 -0640
From: bill.rust at travel.com (Bill Rust)
Subject: Cleveland, Kriek, & Suds
Thanks Folks!
Occasionally, I see requests for pub info here in the Digest, and I have
wondered who really responds to those; Now I know. Wow, did I get a lot of
enthusiastic reponses to my query. BTW, it seems that Great Lakes Brewing Co.
is the clear winner (every single responder recommended it highly!)
Also, thanks for the Kriek tips. I'll be trying them out, although it may be
Christmas before I can sample it.
Several digests ago a reader asked about brewing software. I responded by
recommending Suds, but only as a record keeping program. Well, it seems I
need to eat my words. I have been evaluating version 3.0a of the program, and
I am happy to say that it has a powerful new recipe formulator. Also, if you
call Homebrew U. BBS, you can get The Cat's Meow in Suds format. THIS IS A
MAJOR UPGRADE!. It's a pleasure to use (although, there are a few minor
bugs.), and it's only $20. My apologies to you Suds users out there!
BTW, why did Zymurgy ignore Suds in their Software review last spring?????
Anyway, thanks for all the kind inputs, and keep up the great work!
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| "If God dwells inside us, like some people say, | BILL RUST |
| I sure hop He likes enchiladas, because that's | Systems Analyst |
| what He's getting! | |
| | --=_=-- |
| | |
| JACK HANDEY | Shiloh, IL |
| Deep Thoughts | bill.rust at travel.com |
+-------------------------------------------------------------------------+
- ---
~ SPEED 1.40 #1651 ~ Jazz is not dead, it just smells funny. - FRANK ZAPPA
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 02 Aug 94 23:07:54 EDT
From: BToddL69 at aol.com
Subject: outdoor brewer to be
Help! I've been banished from my kitchen, so it is time to move the
operation outside. Therefore, I am in need of some advice on propane beer
cookers. Where's the best place to find a reasonably priced,efficient, and
sturdy unit? While searching back issues of the HBD I found a reference to
Metal Fusion, manufacturer of King Cookers, but there was no phone
number/address. If this is a worthwhile source I'd appreciate the info. On a
more health/science oriented note, does anyone know of any harmful effects
associated with the intense aromas that are prevelant while boiling hops and
wort indoors? The KEEPER of my kitchen claims nausea as a byproduct, hence my
banishment. TIA for replies. Todd Little
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 94 23:12 CDT
From: pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel)
Subject: Chlorine/Bisulfite
===> Andy Walsh asks about chlorine and sodium metabisulfite:
>Secondly, I remember reading (either in Zymurgy or was it Noonan?) that sodium
>metabisulphite was useful in "neutralising" chlorine. So a question for you
>chemists - what is the actual reaction? What are the biproducts? Would sodium
>met. be useful in treating plastic buckets impregnated with bleach, or for
>removing residual chlorine from equipment sanitised with bleach?
>Granted the pH of beer and water make sodium met. not useful for sanitising,
>but perhaps it could have other uses?
Yes, bisulfite will "neutralize" chlorine since chlorine is an oxidizing
agent and bisulfite is a reducing agent. The chemical reaction is:
Cl2 + Na2SO3 + H2O ----> 2 HCl + Na2SO4
Sodium bisulfite could be used to treat buckets impregnated with chlorine
though from a physical standpoint it would probably take as long to neutralize
the chlorine as it took to impregnate. According to the above equation, the
reaction of chlorine with bisulfite creates hydrochloric acid so the solution
would become more acidic. This would degrade the bisulfite by allowing it
to be lost as sulfur dioxide:
2 HCl + Na2SO3 ----> 2 NaCl + SO2(g) + H2O
- --
Phil
_____________________________________________________________
Philip Gravel pgravel at mcs.com
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Date: 2 Aug 1994 03:04:19 U
From: "OAKQM3" <OAKQM3 at oakqm3.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Please Resend
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Homebrew Digest #1490 (August 02,
!!!! Original Message >= 24K; See following enclosure. Preview follows !!!!
HOMEBREW Digest #1490 Tue 02 August 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
INBOX Message (See Below) (Mailer.MC1)
Cascades in Anchor Steam clone??? (Dick Dunn)
Wyeast ESB 1968 and Sodium Metabisulphite (ANDY WALSH)
5 liter mini-keg questions (John Williams)
Harvesting Hops ("Pamela J. Day 7560")
Re: Cold Box Paint (Tel +44 784 443167)
mild ale recipe request (Patrick Casey)
Re: nano-review of bacteria (brewing chemist Mitch)
Japanese Beetles (John DeCarlo x7116 )
Re: Attenuation/weizens (Jim Busch)
Archive Info (npyle)
Yeast Culturing (Terry Terfinko)
English pub info (Jim Dipalma)
Jim Koch/SA Double Bock (Bob Guerin)
IBU's (Douglas R. Jones)
French Canada info needed (Miu Wang)
Various Topics / Feedback Requested (Louis K. Bonham)
Bittering without hops (Sean C. Cox)
Randy's Fun Hunter Club ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
Oregon brew spots (Marc Hugentobler)
calling all aussies (Steve Peters)
Mash & Sparge Times (berkun)
brewpubs (jehartzl)
Hops (Douglas R. Jones)
Saxer lemon lager (John Loegering)
Re: Canned Beer, HBD #1489 (August 01, 1994) ("Christopher V. Sack")
'-acation-va' programs Are OK (Conan-the-Librarian)
Plastic Fermenter Help Neede (Phil Miller)
******************************************************************
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Date: 1 Aug 94 02:39:13 U
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Date: 2 Aug 1994 02:44:27 U
From: "OAKQM3" <OAKQM3 at oakqm3.sps.mot.com>
Subject: Please Resend
Mail*Link(r) SMTP Homebrew Digest #1490 (August 02,
!!!! Original Message >= 24K; See following enclosure. Preview follows !!!!
HOMEBREW Digest #1490 Tue 02 August 1994
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
INBOX Message (See Below) (Mailer.MC1)
Cascades in Anchor Steam clone??? (Dick Dunn)
Wyeast ESB 1968 and Sodium Metabisulphite (ANDY WALSH)
5 liter mini-keg questions (John Williams)
Harvesting Hops ("Pamela J. Day 7560")
Re: Cold Box Paint (Tel +44 784 443167)
mild ale recipe request (Patrick Casey)
Re: nano-review of bacteria (brewing chemist Mitch)
Japanese Beetles (John DeCarlo x7116 )
Re: Attenuation/weizens (Jim Busch)
Archive Info (npyle)
Yeast Culturing (Terry Terfinko)
English pub info (Jim Dipalma)
Jim Koch/SA Double Bock (Bob Guerin)
IBU's (Douglas R. Jones)
French Canada info needed (Miu Wang)
Various Topics / Feedback Requested (Louis K. Bonham)
Bittering without hops (Sean C. Cox)
Randy's Fun Hunter Club ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
Oregon brew spots (Marc Hugentobler)
calling all aussies (Steve Peters)
Mash & Sparge Times (berkun)
brewpubs (jehartzl)
Hops (Douglas R. Jones)
Saxer lemon lager (John Loegering)
Re: Canned Beer, HBD #1489 (August 01, 1994) ("Christopher V. Sack")
'-acation-va' programs Are OK (Conan-the-Librarian)
Plastic Fermenter Help Neede (Phil Miller)
******************************************************************
** NOTE: There will be no digest administration from July 27
** through August 7. PLEASE be patient when requesting changes
** or cancellations.
******************************************************************
Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
(Articles are published in the order they are received.)
Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc.,
to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if
you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU),
then you MUST unsubscribe the same way!
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
FAQs, archives and other files are available via anonymous ftp from
sierra.stanford.edu. (Those without ftp access may retrieve files via
mail from listserv at sierra.stanford.edu. Send HELP as the body of a
message to that address to receive listserver instructions.)
Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored.
For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
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Subject: Homebrew Digest #1490 (August 02, 1994)
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 94 15:48:37 +1000
From: ANDY WALSH <awalsh at ozemail.com.au>
Subject: yeast info
I have had many requests from people to send them the Compuserve yeast
information I referred to in a previous posting. I personally pay for my
Internet access, and even worse, I pay per byte of data I send and receive over
the net. This multiplies if I send the same data to multiple recipients. So,
sorry folks, to all those who requested the yeast info, but I won't send it to
you.
I would post it to the HBD, but it is very large, and much of the data is
advertising material for Advanced Brewers Scientific. I am also uncertain about
the legalities of chopping it up and sending the relevant data to the HBD.
Interested parties without Compuserve access should contact Advanced Brewers
Scientific via email at gummitch at teleport.com. I am sure they would be happy to
post their catalogue to you. This catalogue has all the yeast info referred to,
along with recommended strains for different styles, and a stack of yeast
culturing gear. (I have nothing to do with this company etc.)
Andy W.
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Date: Tue, 2 Aug 1994 16:41:17 GMT
From: matthew.reagan at father.com (Matthew Reagan)
Subject: Wicked yeasties
I just finished a six of Pete's Wicked Lager and, while rinsing the
bottles for recycling (twistoffs!), I noticed a trace of yeast on the
bottom. Has anyone tried reculturing this stuff? Is it THE yeast or
a strain used only for krausening? I wonder the same about the trace of
yeast in my Celis White bottles--could I possible use it to get that
wonderful clove-ness?
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Matthew Reagan matthew.reagan at father.com -
- Dept. of Chemical Engineering reagan at eniac.seas.upenn.edu -
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Date: 3 Aug 94 02:38:06 U
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Subject: Homebrew Digest #1491 (August 03, 1994)
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Date: Wed, 3 Aug 1994 19:31:34 +1000 (EST)
From: David Draper <David.Draper at mq.edu.au>
Subject: Hopping steam beers
Dear Friends, my contribution to the current activity on steam beers,
especially the way they are hopped. Jim DiPalma asks about "inside info";
don't have any except what's in MJ's Beer Companion, which mentions three
additions of Northern Brewer. I brewed a steam a while back using the
American hops I had on hand; the schedule was 17 g 11.3 Chinook 60 min, 20
g 6.4 Clusters 40 min, and 14 gr 5.4 Cascades 10 min (all pellets, for a
23 litre batch). This gives IBUs in the neighborhood of 40, which is
about right I reckon. This produced a pretty decent beer (used Wyeast
2112 BTW), but it was not anything like Anchor, mostly because of the hops
(could have used a little more body but that's another story), definitely
upholding Dick Dunn's comment about Cascades in the finish not being on
target. My most recent batch (partial mash this time, first was extract +
spec. grn) is another steam (23 litres, 3 kg pale malt, 250 gr 80L
crystal, single infusion, plus 1.25 kg extract syrup, Wyeast 2112) but
this time I stuck to the Ungloved One's info, and did three additions of
6.8% N. Brewer pellets at 60, 10, and 2 minutes (IBUs also around 40).
The difference is phenomenal, and not only do I think this will end up as
the best beer I have made to date, but it is actually going to taste
something like a beer that people have heard of <grin>.
So based on this exhaustive one-data-point study, I'd say if you want
steam, go for the three additions of N Brewer and forget the other
suggestions. In particular, there was a recipe a couple digests ago
(don't have the details handy) that had British hops and either 1028 or
1098 yeast--no chance for that one IMHO.
Finally, one unrelated comment: awhile back someone suggested that Jeff
Renner thinks he is his wife. This is obviously absurd. He thinks he is
his wife's *computer*.
Cheers, Dave in Sydney
- --
******************************************************************************
David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109
Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper at mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428
....I'm not from here, I just live here....
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1492, 08/04/94