HOMEBREW Digest #1498 Thu 11 August 1994

Digest #1497 Digest #1499

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Dry Hops (npyle)
  Forfeiture laws/W VA etc. ("Glenace L. Melton")
  Brewpubs near Mystic Connecticut (Jonathan Albrecht ph3187)
  Ordering Beer (Fred Waltman)
  Re: Repitching yeast (HBD #1496) (Jim Ancona)
  Cory Keg fermenters ("Stephen Lovett")
  Ca. law & Grain Batch (ELQ1)
  Legal Homebrewing in WV (mike.keller)
  That fresh beer flavor/Closed systems/CHEAP Cornelius kegs (Teddy Winstead)
  Re: Waste Water Management (Lowell Hart)
  Reply to illegality of homebrewing in West Virginia (Henson W.C.(Bill))
  Japanese beetle repellent - homebrewed (Ed Ditto)
  Re:Beer Labels (EKTSR)
  Mashing Rice - How? ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
  More on Rotten Veggie Smell (Chris Strickland)
  Ale and Cider (PSTOKELY)
  Late additions+dry hops?? (BUKOFSKY)
  Hop Growing/Poles etc. (rprice)
  SG vs temperature (Chip Hitchcock)
  Homebrew Spinoffs - Marinades (Conan-the-Librarian)
  Hop vine Monuments (Mark Evans)
  Phils Philler(TM) (todd boyce)
  Polyclar (Robert H. Reed)
  Xmas Ale recipe request (Jon Higby)
  Budapest (Ray Gaffield)
  When to put the fruit in . . . (Timothy Wong)
  Rakes/Oak Casks (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Taylor T'stat recal ("MICHAEL L. TEED")
  AHA Guidelines & Alcohol computation (Wolfe)
  Bru Heat (BeerGeek1)
  Differences among beer mugs (DARREN TYSON)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 Aug 1994 09:23:18 -0700 From: Richard B. Webb <rbw1271 at appenine.ca.boeing.com> Subject: The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing Yet another installment of The beginners guide to advanced and all-grain brewing By Richard B. Webb, the Brews Brother's 1993 Homebrewer of the year part 4 The Mash (cont) Because the sugar in the well-modified malt is readily available to us, we can extract the maximum amount of sugar by a process called single step infusion mashing. Hot water at approximately 165 degrees is placed into the picnic cooler mash tun, and allowed to sit. This is necessary to heat the interior of the tun, allowing a constant and uniform temperature to be achieved. After the temperature settles, the grain is poured on top of the water and thoroughly mixed in. The starch tends to settle to the bottom of the tun where it is converted to sugar and drained away. The grain husks, which tend to float away, will then settle to the bottom of the tun, forming a filter bed to work in conjunction with the filtering properties of the slotted PVC pipe. A constant temperature of about 150-155 degrees is maintained for about 90 minutes, or until the starch has been completely converted to sugar. This conversion of starch to sugar is called saccharification. Some of the hot, sugary liquid is drained away, while more hot water is added to the tun until the temperature of the grains is about 170 degrees. This temperature is maintained for five to ten minutes, which allows the sugar created during saccharification to be readily dissolved. The liquid sugar soup is then partially drained away, while new water is allowed to flow through the grains. This sparge water should be no warmer than 170 degrees, as water hotter than that will leech out bitter oils and resins from the grains, potentially ruining an otherwise perfect batch of beer. One problem with single step infusion mashing is that the initial temperature of the grains is very hard to control. If the water is too hot when the grains are added (the strike temperature), then the enzymes in the grains can be killed, and an insufficient sugar yield will result. If the temperature is too low, then it will have to be raised, especially for beer styles that call for rich, thick, and full bodied beers. The temperature can be raised in a couple of ways. First, hot water can simply be added to the mash. This works up to a point, but it has a certain drawback. The enzymes are more likely to survive the high temperatures of the mash in a relatively thick grain bed. Adding hot water only serves to dilute the grain bed, resulting in a loss of enzymes. The other method of introducing heat to the mash is to remove some of the liquid from the mash. This liquor is heated up, and then returned to the mash. This process is called decoction mashing, and is a technique used in program temperature mashing. This process, most commonly used with lager, or less-modified malt, is similar to single step infusion mashing, yet different. Because the malt is less well modified, there are proteins that remain in the starch which must be dealt with. Instead of placing the grains into a liquid bath at a single, high temperature, the grains are introduced at a lower temperature. Then the temperature in the tun or kettle is slowly increased. As in the single step infusion mash, the hot water is placed in the tun, the temperature inside the tun is allowed to stabilize, and the grain is poured into the water and thoroughly mixed. The main difference here is that the temperature to be achieved initially is closer to 122 degrees Fahrenheit, as opposed to over 150 degrees as described in the previous method. After a short rest at this temperature, heat is added to the tun, and the mashing temperature is allowed to rise. Again the ultimate goal here is a temperature of about 150-155 degrees. There are several methods for adding heat energy to the mash tun. One way that I've tried is by inserting a water heater heating element into the grain mash. This can work, but constant stirring is required in order to evenly distribute the heat throughout the tun. Too high a heat in any one place will leech out the oils and resins that I mentioned earlier. Program temperature mashing also lends itself to heating in a kettle on the stove. Constant stirring keeps the temperature at the bottom of the kettle from rising too high, or from being heated more than the grain near the top of the kettle. At the end of the process, the grains need to be placed into some sort of lauter tun in order to sparge the grains of the hot, soluble sugar. But another method of gradual heating lends itself to the use of picnic cooler mash/lauter tuns. Using such a tun, remove some of the sugary liquid and heat it up independently from the rest of the mash. This liquor can be boiled for a few minutes and then returned to the mash tun. As mentioned earlier, this technique is called decoction mashing, and is well suited to the picnic cooler mash tun, but it can be tricky. Care must be taken not to extract, heat, and return too much liquor at one time, lest the temperature inside the mash tun become too great. It takes a lot of heat added to the tun to increase the temperature significantly, so after a few small decoctions there is a temptation to drain the whole batch and boil it and return it to the tun. Try not to be too impatient... A variation of this decoction technique is known as the recirculatin g infusion mash method. A pump that can handle hot liquids is used to pump the heated liquor from the boiling kettle back to the mash tun. The hot liquor is continually being drained from the tun into the kettle where it is heated, and is then pumped back to the tun, resulting in a gradual heating of the grains. Recirculating systems can get complicated, and the pumps aren't cheap, and there is one more piece of equipment which must be maintained and cleaned. When the homebrewer sits thinking great thoughts about the best brewing system possible, thoughts often turn to recirculating mash systems. There are lots of different kinds of malt and grains to be put in beer. I have included an appendix to this document with a partial list of the most common types of malt. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 94 13:01:21 MDT From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM Subject: Dry Hops Midas Operator 3 writes: >I want to dry hop this batch, after racking. Should I put the (whole) hops in >the bottom of the secondary and then fill, or fill first and place the hops >on top? How long should they be secondary for best results and should they be >in some sort of hop bag, or is loose OK? Well Mr. (or Ms.?) 3, it really doesn't matter whether you put the whole hops in the secondary before or after the beer. They'll float and eventually get saturated with the beer. I recommend a week to 10 days for dry hopping, but longer times won't hurt, in fact may pull more aromatics out of the hops. Loose is fine. A hop bag is fine. Dry hopping is easy. Karl MacRae asks if dry hopping is making his beer cloudy. I don't think hop pellets will cloud a beer for three weeks, Karl. They tend to settle to the bottom of the beer. I'd look elsewhere to correct this problem. Cheers, Norm npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: 09 Aug 94 15:37:32 EDT From: "Glenace L. Melton" <71242.2275 at compuserve.com> Subject: Forfeiture laws/W VA etc. In the 8/8 HBD PStokely told of a friend who had his homebrewing equipment confiscated by a cop in Shepherdstown, WV who stopped him for a traffic violation. While it would be wise to avoid Shepherdstown (or any other town in WVA for that matter) this could happen anywhere in any state of the USA. The federal forfeiture laws allow the police to confiscate anything they wish if they think it is involved in a violation, and they do not have to prove the violation in court or even file a complaint. these laws were established to allow local police to profit from the aggressive enforcement of the anti-drug laws. If you don't like this blatantly unconstitutional law enforcement, flame your congressmen. [END] Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 94 17:16:29 EDT From: albrecht at bns102.bng.ge.com (Jonathan Albrecht ph3187) Subject: Brewpubs near Mystic Connecticut I'm headed to Mystic Connecticut in a few weeks. Can anyone recommend any brewpubs in the area? Jon Albrecht (ALBRECHT at bng.ge.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 1994 14:53:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Fred Waltman <waltman at netcom.com> Subject: Ordering Beer Darren Tyson's recent summary on beer ordering reminded me of a experience I recently had in Syracuse, NY. I was with clients at a fancy restaurant. They ordered beer with lunch, so I was what they had on tap -- nothing, only bottles (usually a bad sign). When asked what they had in bottles I got the usual reply "All kinds". I asked the waiter to humor me by listing them and got the usual litany "Bud, Bud Light, Bud Dry, Bud Ice ..." I interupted and asked for anything not made by Bud, Miller or Coors (sometimes a dangerous proposition that close to the True North, Strong and Free -- you're likely to get the response "Molson's, Molson Ice, ...") and that stumped him and he finally blurted out "Sam Adams" so I said fine, not wanting to prolong the agony. A few days later we went back for happy hour and I thought I'd try again with another waiter. When he also said "All kinds" I got mad and ordered Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. I just about fell over when he came back with the familiar green labeled bottle. I went into the bar and lined up on a lower counter (where you couldn't hardly see them) were just about all of the Samuel Smiths, Orval, Duvel, Jenlain French Country Ale and about two dozen other good imports and micro's. Not quite "All kinds" but close enough. So sometimes when they say "All Kinds" they mean it! Fred Waltman Culver City Home Brewing Supply Co. waltman at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Aug 94 8:50:49 ES From: hpfcla.fc.hp.com!dbsnotes.dbsoftware.com!Jim_Ancona (Jim Ancona) Subject: Re: Repitching yeast (HBD #1496) In HBD #1496, drodger at access.digex.net (David Rodger) writes: >I've read the yeast faq, but am slightly confused on one issue. I'm >moving to liquid yeast cultures, and the cost is encouraging me to try to >re-pitch from one batch to a second. Currently, that's all I'd like to >be able to do; that is, I'm assuming that I'll make one batch, and then >rack from primary to secondary and *immediately* add the new batch. I've done exactly this a couple of times, with good results. I rack the first beer off the yeast, then add the chilled wort on top of the old yeast cake. Shake well, and off you go. I'm careful with sanitation and I only repitch once. Also since you get some of the first beer into the second, following a stout with a light ale might not be a great idea. Other than that, I say, "Go for it!" Return to table of contents
Date: 9 Aug 1994 15:34:48 U From: "Stephen Lovett" <stephen_lovett at qm.claris.com> Subject: Cory Keg fermenters Subject: Cory Keg fermenters >From time to time I've seen comments about using corneilius (sp?) kegs as fermenters, but no detailed instruction/advice on the topic. Refrigerator space is becoming a scarce commodity in my brewing refrigerators and I would really like to use my corny kegs for fermenting as they are smaller in circumference and I can get more brews going concurrently. I'd like to be able to keep these kegs available for draft service, so I guess my real question is what can I use for a fermentation lock that won't alter the keg so that I can use it to serve from at a later date? I'd be happy to post a summary of the information I receive. Cheers, Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 94 14:39:28 PDT From: ELQ1%Maint%HBPP at bangate.pge.com Subject: Ca. law & Grain Batch Good Morning Brewers, Regarding Ca. law, I contacted the Ca. Alcohol Bev. Control who stated that it is legal for an individual to brew 200 gals per person [adult] with a max of 300 gal. per household per year. It is legal to take to friends,picinics,and parties, just no sales. transporting to other states they suggest you contact that states A.B.C. office. One observation/statment/question on an allgrain, I did a batch with pale 2-row Australian that never did fully convert after an almost 2 hour mash, OG- 1.038 FG- 1.026 single step infusion, fermented 4 weeks at 50 deg. The finished product tastes like ....grain, well carbonated, good head etc, it just tastes like the sweet wort, only not sweet as the hops come through. Anybody have this happen? I know where I can correct the low OG and FG, just an observation, other than that, I think I will go have a Grain beverage! Steve Jackson at army.mil, I tried to email you a note on your brazen holliganism, but it bounced, just a bit of advice, don't go shouting loudly in the streets concerning your illegal hobby, being convicted of a felony deprives a person of a lot of rights. Nial, your mail also bounced, Global Indust. Eq. has 55 gal hdpe containers for food grade use, 1-800-645-1232, also Consolidated Plastics has them, I don't have their 800 #, but its in the 800 directory. No afillyashun da bla-t-da, bla-t-da Ed Quier ELQ1 at PGE.COM 707-444-0718 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 04:17:00 UTC From: mike.keller at genie.geis.com Subject: Legal Homebrewing in WV In HBD 1496 Paul Stokely relates a story abour a friend getting pulled over in Shepherdstown WV, and having his brew gear confiscated. He also mentions a lawyer saying he didn't know if brewing is legal in WV or not. This is very distressing. It is QUITE legal to homebrew in WV, there is a new homebrew supply shop in Charleston WV that has received a bunch of press recently. I've been brewing here in St. Albans for several years, and we have a regional brewclub here with members over a 50 mile radius that meets (more or less) monthly. It's sad some cop doesn't know the laws, although it seems with the loss Paul's friend incurred, he should have been willing to return later and fight. It's also sad that some jackleg lawyer doesn't know that a quick visit to City Hall, with a lawyer in tow, would probably have gotten the gear back quick and easy. (the lawyer claimed it would be too costly to fight; what fight when you show that it was obviously illegal confiscation?) Bottom line, though, is that we obviously need more education ALL OVER this country. Perhaps we, as brewers, need some information on how to fight these kinds of harrassment, in the same way you can get info on fighting speeding tickets? mike keller, zymurgy roundtable, GEnie Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 1994 20:07:53 -0500 (CDT) From: winstead%brauerei at cs.tulane.edu (Teddy Winstead) Subject: That fresh beer flavor/Closed systems/CHEAP Cornelius kegs I'm often impressed by the freshness of the flavors in beer from brewpubs. I'm not sure exactly how I'd describe it except to say that there's good, resiny/floral hop aroma and flavor, and nice, smooth maltiness. Are these qualities due to the equipment that they use in mashing and boiling, or are they due to the closed-system fermenters that they use? - ----- (Related to first question) Is anyone using the closed-system fermenter techniques outlined in the Zymurgy Gadgets issue? This system is based on using one cornelius keg for primary fermentation and carbonation, and a second cornelius keg for lagering, storage, and serving. The argument is that the beer is never exposed to air until it is served. I personally beleive in it, but I'd like to hear from sceptical people as well as those that have tried this to hear what they do or don't like about it. - ----- For those of you (like me) who are in search of cheap cornelius kegs, and also refuse to deal with St. Patrick's of TX, there's a place advertising them for $15 a piece. They take Visa/MC, and their number is (404) 315-1100. I think that the name of the place is "Amber Waves", or something like that. They also say that the offer quantity discounts, but they wouldn't cut me a deal on 3. The ad was from Southern Draft Brew News. I'm not connected with anyone.... blah blah blah. - -- Nathaniel Scott "Teddy" Winstead | winstead at cs.tulane.edu (Preferred) | winstead%brauerei.uucp at cs.tulane.edu | Fanatical Homebrewer & CS Undergrad/Grad | Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 1994 22:13:29 -0700 From: Lowell Hart <lhart at CATI.CSUFresno.EDU> Subject: Re: Waste Water Management Tom Wurtz asks about how to avoid wasting the cooling water for his wort chiller. As the San Joaquin Valley is entering its 7th year of drought (the '93 rains having only confused the public, who immediately began wasting water again) we in Fresno have put at least some thought into this, if not a lot of work. My own chiller water goes down the drain, as for some reason the landlord objects to my making permanent modifications to the building. I do have one brewer buddy who has set up his garage system to use the used water to irrigate the backyard. A fixed black PVC drain runs out the back into a dry sump (hole in ground) and whatever runs off after filling the hole flows into the flower beds and waters the roses. He also has an alternate drain where the chiller outlet goes back into a second hose and the water is conveyed to the lawn. The first water to go through the chiller comes out hot, so it is important to remember to run this onto the dirt, or you will kill the grass. Later water isn't all that warm, so it can be used just about anywhere. A couple of our homebrew club members have described recirculating the water with a swamp cooler pump, with ice to re-cool the water. I have not seen these, and will avoid speculating on their construction. My own record for wasting water is 22,000 gallons (based on flowmeter readings) in about 2 hours. Of course, I was working for a private water company at the time, and was running an unused well in order to get an accurate sample. You know, one of those many wells that we shut down around here every time the EPA and the State of California decide to raise the drinking water standards. Wells that would be perfectly acceptable in Nevada and Colorado, but somehow are deadly to Californians. Lowell Hart San Joaquin WORThogs Raketenflugplatz, Fresno lhart at cati.CSUFresno.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 06:26:46 -0500 From: awchrd2 at peabody.sct.ucarb.com (Henson W.C.(Bill)) Subject: Reply to illegality of homebrewing in West Virginia Gentle Brewers, As a means of introduction,I run a homebrew supply store out of my home in the Charleston area. Brewing has been legal in W.V. for a couple of years. I believe the current administration legalized it so it's been within in the past three years. I have never been questioned or inspected or anything. I think maybe someone ran across a thirsty cop. We also have our share of ignorant, and or ,over jealous cops, so take your pick. Lurking in the background, awchrd2 at peabody.sct.ucarb.com (Henson W.C.(Bill)) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 07:35:16 -0400 From: aa3396 at freenet.lorain.oberlin.edu (Ed Ditto) Subject: Japanese beetle repellent - homebrewed One of the most interesting strategies for defeating those damned Japanese beetles I've seen is as follows: place 1 package of chewing tobacco in nylon hose (for straining purposes) boil in 1 gallon of water add 2 cups "pot liquor" which results to 1 cup environmentally correct dishwashing soap put resulting mix in a 20-gallon nozzle attachment and spray through a garden hose to the affected area This is one of those nozzle attachments that doesn't actually hold 20 gallons of solution, it just holds enough formula to correctly mix with 20 gallons of water through the hose. This sounds bizarre, but I've seen it work. I had a twenty-foot apple tree that was covered with them...five or six on every leaf, and they never came back after I hosed them down with this noxious mix. I don't think the flavor of the apples was affected, although if I were spraying something more delicate (like hops cones), I think I would just spray the vines. I'm not sure if this would work on ants and other pests, but it definitely didn't keep the squirrels out of my apple tree! - -- Ed Ditto TVA/Chattanooga aa3396 at freenet.lorain.oberlin.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 07:44:59 EDT From: EKTSR at aol.com Subject: Re:Beer Labels Dean J Miller asks: >I have made a barleywine for a friend's wedding and have >bottled it in the Fischer Alsace 22 oz. bottles. But, I would >like to get some neat beer labels made. Does anyone know of >a good source for custom-made labels for beer bottles?? >Private E-Mail or Posting is OK. If there are a lot of >responses, I will post a summary. Please hold the flames. My wife and I own Psycho Kitty Design, and we custom design high quality color labels for homebrewers at affordable prices. Please E-mail us for a free brochure. TIA to everyone on HBD for the opportunity for a free pitch. Stan White, psycokitty at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 07:16:29 CDT From: "MICHAEL L. TEED" <MS08653 at MSBG.med.ge.com> Subject: Mashing Rice - How? .int homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com Anyone out there know how to use rice in a mash? My limited library has no information on how to do so. I have seen comments that it is as easy as boil it and add it to the mash, or as complicated as the saki itenerary a few weeks back. What does it really take to make this work in an all grain brew. What types of rice would be used. Email responses are fine. TIA. Mike Teed Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 08:33:31 -0400 From: stricklandc at cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov (Chris Strickland) Subject: More on Rotten Veggie Smell I have the rotten veggie smell in a previous batch. The beer smelled and tasted fine before bottling. But now after 10 days in the bottle, it really stinks and taste likes it smells. Why would it smell ok before bottling, but stink after bottling. Is there a chance that time will fix this problem. +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Chris Strickland | Allin1: stricklandc | | Systems Analyst/Statistician | Email : stricklandc at cocoa12.ksc.nasa.gov | +-----------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 08:36:24 EDT From: PSTOKELY at ea.umd.edu Subject: Ale and Cider Mark Wilk asked about mixing beer and cider: It's been a few years, but a former brewpub in Ithaca New York used to serve a "Snakebite Ale" which was a mix of hard cider and Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and it was great on hot summer days. If I recall, the mixture was half and half. Scott Bickham? Or any other Homebrew Unioners out there, is Snakebite still around? ************* Now I have a question. I no longer have access to a brewing refrigerator, any recommendations on lager yeasts that can handle 60 to 65 degree basement conditions. I've read the commercial literature, I'm looking for actual homebrewer recommendations. Thanks in advance, Paul S. in College Park, Maryland "You speak in strange whispers, friend, are you not of The Body?" Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 09:45:53 -0400 (EDT) From: BUKOFSKY <sjb8052 at minerva.cis.yale.edu> Subject: Late additions+dry hops?? I'm getting ready to dry hop an English-style pale ale with 1oz of EKG. Normally, if I wasn't dry hopping, I would add several hop additions i.e. 30 min and 45 min into the boil. Is this a waste of time if I am dry hopping? I'm wondering if the powerful dry hopped aroma/flavor will overwhelm any effects from late hop additions. Any thoughts/experience? -Scott No cute comment. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 09:21:09 -0500 From: rprice at cbmse.nrl.navy.mil Subject: Hop Growing/Poles etc. Following along with the thread on hop poles, she who must be obeyed etc. I thought the following little tidbit might be of interest. When we toured a hopyard in Kent this summer, we were told by the owner that he was looking forward to doing away with his poles, etc. He stated that the U. of Kent had developed a "bush hop" and that the grower was looking forward to working with the new variety rather than using stilts, and putting up with the poles and guy wires. So help may be on the way. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 09:48:48 EDT From: cjh at diaspar.HQ.ileaf.com (Chip Hitchcock) Subject: SG vs temperature The recent posts on this subject have ignored an important factor: in addition to the non-linearity of SG at high temperatures, the temperature of a small sample of hot liquid is likely not to be consistent due to the large surface area of the sample and large temperature difference between the sample and the surrounding air. Air can't ]absorb[ much ]heat[ from liquid, but I'd be surprised if you could get a reliable reading on a sample of hot wort. I don't mash, so I can't speak to general practice, but I'd guess that the only reliable way to check SG on hot wort would be to put the sample holder in an ice bath and take temperature and SG when the holder is no longer warm, or even is perceptibly cool, to the touch (i.e., it's below ~37C). I suppose you could use a larger container than the one that hydrometers are sold with, put in both a thermometer and a hydrometer, and try to read temperature and SG simultaneously, but that strikes me as chancy. Also, I don't trust Dave Line's formulae (as cited by David Draper); taken literally, it says that a hydrometer will read the same in pure water over the range 60 - 170F, which I doubt. OTOH, I'm not sure any linear crxn (i.e., X SG pts at Y degrees, Y > ~100) is valid over a range of concentrations; can someone who's still a practicing chemist produce some up-to-date numbers? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 07:11:03 -0700 From: pascal at netcom.com (Conan-the-Librarian) Subject: Homebrew Spinoffs - Marinades Got some beer you're afraid to drink ? Don't want to dump it ? Here's an interesting, and constructive, use for beer - use it to make, or maintain, a marinade. A 'marinade' is a solution used to flavor meat(s), and is often a secret, handed down, from cook to cook. Beers are often used in their preparation, but so are ciders, wines, and vinegars - all of which are acidic, and, over a period of days, reduce the fiberous nature of meats, making them much more tender as well adding the intended flavor(s). In addition, many other things can be added to the marinade - spices and fruits, for instance. I like to used sliced ginger. A good marinade can remain working for months or even years, much like a sourdough culture can be maintained. ( And, I suspect, there is a fascin- -ating microecology also to be found in a marinade. :-) Or it can change, with the seasons, using whatever is available. It's your marinade, after all. So, the next time you pop that top, and find you don't want to drink the whole thing ... consider starting a marinade, instead ... Your stews will love you for it. (-: - -- richard Law : The science of assigning responsibility. Politics : The art of _distributing_ responsibility. richard childers san francisco, california pascal at netcom.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 09:54:35 -0600 From: evanms at lcac1.loras.edu (Mark Evans) Subject: Hop vine Monuments I've enjoyed the stories about hop yards--especially Coyote's. My wife also rolled her eyes when she saw the "poles," but the growth is pretty, dramatic, and adds to the look of our eclectic garden. I use a method I read in a hop article. I cut down a few weedy, sucker trees that grow in a nearby wood. (these are not significant varieties, locust, whatever) I make sure they are about 20 feet tall and fairly straight. I sink 1-2 6' metal fence posts in the ground and then secure the trunks to the fence post with sturdy romex wire (leave the white insulation on) Twist tight. I run three baling strings up to the top and let the hops creep on up. They've gone way past the top this year, but it hasn't hurt their growth. When I get early crops--like this year--I un-twist the wire, lower the poles carefully with a friend, pick the cones, and raise again. The neighbors think I'm nuts. They think it is some sort of native ritual, some sort of spirit place. i think..."Hey, it is! it's ten vines of Hallertau and Mt. Hood hops... and they are fresh!" Brewfully, Mark Evans ================================================================= | Mark Evans Dubuque, Iowa | | Practitioner of | * | Visual, Literary, and Zymurgistic arts | * | Evanms at LCAC1.Loras.edu | | 319-582-3139 | ================================================================= Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 08:50:43 -0600 (MDT) From: todd boyce <tboyce at bohemia.metronet.org> Subject: Phils Philler(TM) I'd like anyone whom has used a phils philler bottle filler to give me there impressions on how they though it worked. Good or bad. There brass, more expensive etc. Do they perform better than anything else you've personally used, or are you disapointed? If Mega brewerys produce 1,000,000 barrels a year or over, then micros must produce 1,000,000 * .000001 = 1 barrel a year or more. Technically speaking most homebrewer qualifie as microbrewers. (Unless a barrel of beer is really huge). So how many gallons is a barrel of beer? Todd Boyce e-mail tboyce at bohemia.metronet.org Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 10:38:40 -0500 (CDT) From: Robert H. Reed <rhreed at icdc.delcoelect.com> Subject: Polyclar GONTAREK at FCRFV1.NCIFCRF.GOV writes: > I recently purchased Dave Miller's book, > which said to hydrate the polyclar in about a cup of beer from > the secondary. So, I did this, and had a helluva time getting the > polyclar into solution. Anyway, I finally got it into solution > and poured it into the secondary. Three days later, it still was not > clear. I decided to bottle it anyway. > Almost two weeks later, the beer is *very* cloudy, almost > white in the bottle. Are you sure Dave says to rehydrate *polyclar* ? Polyclar is plastic, and functions as an adsorbant: I'd be surprised if it could absorb any water at all. In my experience and according to sources I've read polyclar primarily attacks polyphenols (most commonly tannins extracted from the grain during mash/sparging). In my experence, polyclar does not deal with chill haze proteins or starch haze in your beer. If you have chill haze, silica gel works well, and a bentonite solution properly prepared also works. I know of no remedy for starch haze short of tight filtration. -Rob Reed Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 10:34:34 CDT From: unisql!jonh at cs.utexas.edu (Jon Higby) Subject: Xmas Ale recipe request I'm looking for a tried & true recipe for a Xmas ale. Seems like this would be a good time to make one, giving it about 3 months of aging for prime tasting form. I'm planning on making 10 gallons in the 1.070 - 1.085 OG range. All-grain, partial mash or extract are all fine. I will end up mashing 70% and the rest will be from extract (limitations of my current mashing system for this strength and capacity), but can convert any recipe! Most interesting will be the spices and quantity used as well as the hopping rates. Post or email (to address in my signature). Thanks in advance, Jon / / Austin - -- Jon Higby ---- UniSQL, Inc. ---- email: unisql!jonh at cs.utexas.edu Denial clause: Prices subject to change w/o notice, actual mileage may vary. Fat-free, high fiber, tastes great. If you've read this far, you must be looking for this: Any opinions I expressed are just that - my opinions. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 11:22:37 -0500 From: ray_gaffield at il.us.swissbank.com (Ray Gaffield) Subject: Budapest I have not been to Budapest in awhile - 7 years. Hungary is not a great brewing nation as far as I know (on the other hand, they are great makers of wine). The beers I tasted were very watery and uninspiring. When I was there the best beer to be found was, naturally, Czech offerings, such as Urquell. You may want to consider a side trip there ,to sample the Bohemia brews. My Jackson, pocket guide lists a couple brewpubs in Vienna : The Fischer Gasthaus Billoth Strass 17 Schloss Nussdorf (phone 372652) RAY Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 09:11:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Timothy Wong <roadgoat at crl.com> Subject: When to put the fruit in . . . I am about to experiment with a berry-wheat beer and just wanted to get opinions on when I should put the fruit into the beer. I am under the impression that I should put it in the primary fermenter (put the fruit in the wort) then put it in the primary. I've also seen recipes that have the fruit put in the secondary. Any opinions will be appreciated. Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Aug 94 16:52:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Rakes/Oak Casks Well, just back from 18 days in Britain where I learned a few things that might be of general interest. Rakes: I visited about 6 or 8 breweries (I'm still jet-lagged out... hard to think... tried to drive on the wrong side of the road this morning) and asked the brewmasters at every one whether they use the rakes during the sparge. The resounding answer was NO, and that the rakes are used only for spent grain removal. In some, the rakes fold up, completely out of the mash until needed for grain removal. Oak Casks: Over the last couple of years, I've been saying that "all the oak casks used by the british brewers are made of European oak and are pitch-lined so they impart no flavor to the beer." Well, now it's time to eat crow. There may be some brewers that do use pitch-lines casks, but the Samuel Smiths brewery in Tadcaster used unlined oak casks. The beer I tasted at the Angel and White Horse (the pub that is shares walls with the brewery) did not taste woody at all. I wrote this off to the European oak and made a few notes in my notebook. Well, Monday afternoon, my wife Karen and I were having a few pints at the Olde Cheshire Cheese, just off Fleet Street in London and while the Samuel Smiths Old Brewery Pale Ale was only slightly woody, the SS Museum Ale was *extremely* woody. It did not taste oaky however -- the aroma/flavour was less like oak and more like a dark wood. Note that Tadcaster is near York in the north and London is in the south, so perhaps the shipping in wood or maybe just that the Museum Ale had slower turnover (it did not taste oxidized and at least according to CAMRA's Good Beer Guide, they do not use blanket pressure), but there was a definate woody note to both beers. Not glad to be back... Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 11:58:19 CDT From: "MICHAEL L. TEED" <MS08653 at MSBG.med.ge.com> Subject: Taylor T'stat recal .int homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com First off, thanks to all who responded to my request for the Taylor T'stat modification. Most helpful. I decided that I would be happier if I could offset my Taylor unit by 10 degrees rather than 5 as done in the previous mod. Instead of the 180 ohm resistor used for the 5 degree offset, I calculated and verified a value of 91 ohms will work suitably within the 10 degree offset range desired. I verified this using 2 t'stats side by side, with the sensors strapped together to insure thermal tracking. In the 30-40 degree range, the units tracked identically down to the 32 degree thermometer readout limit with both increasing and decreasing temperatures. At 70 degrees there was a 5 degree offset between units, verifying as expected that the modification is not linear over the full range of measurement. I would still use a switch to bypass the modification per the original article to maintain accuracy above 40 degrees. I dont have my data in front of me, but the 40-50 degree range was only 8-9 degrees off depending on which end of the scale you are on. Whether that is suitable accuracy for you is your decision, you may eliminate the switch if so. Just another mod for an already great brewtoy. BTW, there is still a couple Taylor's left at this store. Email me for info. Mike Teed Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Aug 94 11:43 CST From: Wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Subject: AHA Guidelines & Alcohol computation I've been reading the Classic Beer Style books and have seen in a number of figures on how attenuated some styles of beer should be. For example, Foster's _Porter_ suggests that a porter should ferment out to about 25% of the original gravity (He means the final apparent gravity here -- I checked the recipes in the back of the book.). Given this, it's easy to compute the expected alcohol by volume using ((OSG-FSG)/7.5). The problem is that when I use the .25 x OG = FG rule, the alcohol contents I get from the above equation are considerably higher than those cited in the AHA Style Guidelines. Can someone tell me why? Is it because the alcohol levels for the AHA Style Guidelines are computed based on real attentuation rather than apparent attenuation? Ed Wolfe wolfe at act-12-po.act.org Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 94 13:05:28 EDT From: BeerGeek1 at aol.com Subject: Bru Heat In HBD 1496 Greg Ames asks about Bru Heat electric brew pots. Well, I have one and I am very happy. It is a plastic bucket (5 imp gal) with a heating coil and temp control. There are two types, one is 110 volts and the other is 220 volts. The 110 volt is a joke, and you will be voting for the 56th president before the wort would think about boiling. On the other hand, the 220 volt unit works very well. I live in a two story condo with electric HVAC units on each floor, and it is very easy to just un-plug one and plug in the bru-heat. The only problem, and it really isn't one, is that since it is a UK product, the plug is not included. One other thing, the instructions claim that you can use it to mash grains. I would be concerned that the grains would scotch. My $0.02 worth -M Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Aug 1994 12:11:37 -0600 (CST) From: DARREN TYSON <TYSONDR at SLUVCA.SLU.EDU> Subject: Differences among beer mugs Greetings hombrewers, I had an interesting experience last night. I remember reading about the differences in head retention when beer is decanted into diffeent vessels, but I never expected such a drastic difference! I started bottling in 500 mL bottles, but my beer mug only holds about 300 mL. Wanting to taste a sample of the batch I bottled last week, I went to the basement and retrieved one of my new larger bottles. I realized that I wouldn't be able to fit the entire contents into my usual glass beer mug so I found a large plastic mug I had saved from my college years that would hold half a liter. I opened the bottle and began pouring. As I poured the head kept growing and growing until it overflowed while I still had about 150 mL left in the bottle. Trying not to disrupt the settled yeast too much I quickly grabbed a dinner glass from the cupboard. When I poured the beer into this container there wasn't so much as a fizz! No head at all! When I had time to get my beer mug I decanted the beer from the glass and the plastic mug into my usual beer mug. Perfect. The head was about 2 cm and the retention was great. The mug made all the difference. This experience makes me wonder about comparisons of carbonation and head retention between and among different brewers. Is that beer of yours really flat or has it merely been poured into the wrong container? May all your beer be homebrewed, Darren tysondr at sluvca.slu.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1498, 08/11/94