FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  Competition announcement (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Artichokes and Pyrex (Pierre Jelenc)
  Steeping Crystal (npyle)
  Northwestern malts (claytonj)
  Welcome to HBD/ Steeping Grain/All-Grain Brewing FAQ ("Palmer.John")
  recipe request (RONALD MOUCKA)
  Temperature-Controlled Fermenter (Don Put)
  Cherry Brew (Edward Bronson)
  homegrown hops redux ("David Sapsis")
  Mini-keg,carboy cap,yeast tips (DanJo)
  Carboy Carriers (Jeff Guillet)
  Re: cracking flasks (no, not hip flasks) (Jeff Frane)
  Aphid Ale (berkun)
  Stainless False Bottoms Revisited (Louis K. Bonham)
  Raseberry Ale (fischer)
  Long Valley Brewfest and Street Fair (gcw)
  Broken Flasks/Starters (John W. Carpenter)
  herbal hops remedy (Btalk)
  To bitter a brew (COX003)
  Ofest/ Fix / Grain ("Lee A. Menegoni")
  Re: Flasks (Greg Demkowicz)
  Carboy handles (KWH)
  Flask problems (KWH)
  Re: Trub Removal Bleus (that's French!) (Spencer.W.Thomas)
   (1DOUGLRY)



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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: 15 Sep 94 14:50:00 GMT
From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Competition announcement

I'm posting this for a fellow CBS member.  I'd like to point out that
Chris has been the first organizer in this area to actively seek out
people who *want* to be judges and arrange a sort of mentoring for them.
If you have never judged before, this is a great place to learn without
a lot of pressure.
Al.

For:Interested Homebrewers, Judges, Apprentices and Stewards.

            !!!   CALL FOR ENTRIES !!!

          !!! CALL FOR JUDGES/STEWARDS !!!


The Sixth Evanston First Homebrew Challenge will be held on
Sunday, October 16, 1994 at Evanston First Liquors, 1019 W.
Davis Street, Evanston, IL  60201. 708-328-9651.

AWARDS:
Merchandise and rosette ribbon awards to top 3 best of show.
Rosette ribbons to runners up. Ribbons to category winners.
Two bottles and $3.00 fee per entry.  All 1994 AHA styles welcome.

TO ENTER:
Entry forms and judge/steward registration forms for this AHA/HWBTA
sanctioned event are available at the store and from the organizer.

JUDGE/STEWARDS:
Judges, apprentice judges and stewards who register and participate
will be admitted free to a gala Belgian ale tasting held right
after judging concludes.

Not a BJCP judge but want to learn? Sign up for apprentice judge
orientation (Sunday 10-10:45 Sunday Oct.16).

FOR MORE INFORMATION:
Contact organizer:

        Christopher Nemeth, BJCPCertified Judge, Chicago Beer Society
        idnemeth at id.iit.edu
        708.869.3621

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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 11:54:30 EDT
From: Pierre Jelenc <pcj1 at columbia.edu>
Subject: Artichokes and Pyrex

> dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE)
>
> I have access to some sunchokes (aka Jerusalem artichokes)--they are a
> sunflower with underground tubers that taste sort of like a cross
> between a cabbage and a potato. There seems to be plenty of starch in
> them.

Unfortunately, plants of the Jerusalem artichoke family use inulin, not 
starch as their carbohydrate reserve. Inulin ressembles starch, but is 
composed mostly of fructose, and is not hydrolysed by amylases. Inulin is 
considerably more soluble in water than starch, but it will reprecipitate 
slowly upon standing. Worst of all, the shorter members of the inulin 
family (analogous to starch dextrins) are famous for causing intense 
production of intestinal gas.

All may not be lost, however: the mold Aspergillus niger produces an 
inulinase that hydrolyses inulin to fructose and a bit of glucose. It is 
quite possible that koji (Aspergillus oryzae) does the same. It may be 
worth the try if you really want a beer that tastes like Jerusalem 
artichoke. 


> bart at nexgen.com (Bart Thielges)
>
> So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort)
> up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK.

Never heat a glass flask, even Pyrex, on a direct flame without moving it 
constantly through the flame.

More conveniently, use a heat diffuser pad, available at any hardware store.

Pierre

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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 10:24:18 MDT
From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM
Subject: Steeping Crystal

Braz writes:

>            SINCE I'VE DONE MORE READING ABOUT BREWING BEER THAN
>ACTUALLY BREWING MYSELF,  I'VE NOTICED THAT ALL OF THE
>RECIPES I'VE COME ACCROSS INSTRUCT THE HOMEBREWER TO ADD
>THE SPECIALTY GRAINS, (IN MY CASE CRYSTAL MALT), TO THE
>WATER IN THE BREWPOT AND BRING TO A BOIL MAKING SURE TO
>REMOVE THE GRAINS BEFORE THE BOIL IS REACHED TO AVOID THE
>UNPLEASANT PROPERTIES OF THE GRAIN TO BE RELEASED INTO THE
>WORT... I DONT KNOW WHO IS CONSIDERED THE GURU OF BEER

First of all, you don't have to shout; we can hear you just fine with the
caps lock OFF.  The guru?  Well, Charlie Papazian has probably, no he has
definitely done more for homebrewing in the US than any other individual.
He is a good target for criticism here, but the fact remains that without
Charlie, homebrewing would still be in the dark ages of American history.

>MAKING AND WHO HAS SET THE STANDARDS OR METHODS IN WHICH
>THE GRAINS SHOULD BE ADDED------BUT IT SEEMS TO ME THAT WE
>COULD RELEASE THE POSITIVE ATTRIBUTES OF THE CRYSTAL MALT
>BY STEEPING THE GRAIN IN A HOP SAC IMMERSED IN THE ONCE
>BOILING WATER REMOVED FROM THE HEAT SOURCE--SAY FOR 15-20
>MINS JUST AS THE ORIENTAL PRACTICE OF MAKING TEA FROM ROSE
>HIPS AND HABISCIOUS FLOWERS.

Congratulations for doing some independent thinking, rather than following
the crowd.  Your idea has merit, and is used by more than one brewer on
this net.  The "unpleasant properties" of the grain are usually thought of
as astringency, like the dryness of tea.  This is not desired in beer.  It is
typically leached from grain as a function of time, temperature, and pH.
Your method of steeping keeps the temperature relatively low, while allowing
the pH to remain low (a natural function of the grain), for a reasonable time.
Bottom line: you are correct:  its a good idea; what else can I say?

Cheers,
Norm npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com

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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 12:54:04 EDT
From: claytonj at cc.tacom.army.mil
Subject: Northwestern malts


Greetings,

After seeing recent the discussion Northwestern malts I thought I'd add a data
point of my experience using NW LME.  The LME is available in the Detroit area
and is much cheaper than Laaglander (sp?) or (my choice) Munton & Fison LMEs
and DMEs.  

I've made several batches of pale ales and a porter using the LME as either
all or part of the fermentables.  The pale ale and a porter using only the LME
and steeping specialty grains (1lb 40l crystal malt for the pale ale and .5lb
80l crystal plus black grains for the porter) I found that the resulting beers
tasted great but the body / mouth feel was too thin for my taste.  BTW I used
Wyeast American ale for the PA and London for the porter.  I've made a couple
more PAs using 3.3lb NW LME and 3lb M&F light DME (plus around 1lb crystal
malt) and the body seems to be much better.  I have also tried using
maltodextrin and it has also helped.  

My buddy uses the NW LME, with specialty grains, exclusively and his beers and
IMHO, they are also too thin.

Anyone else have similar experience?  

Joe C.

*****
To mash or not to mash, that is the question. -Me.

Return to table of contents


Date: 15 Sep 1994 10:50:26 U
From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com>
Subject: Welcome to HBD/ Steeping Grain/All-Grain Brewing FAQ

Howdy Group,
Welcome to the HBD, Braz. That was a good post, and indeed is a Frequently
Asked Question here. Before I reply to it, I would like to mention that using
all capital letters in a post is frowned upon, as it is interpreted as
SHOUTING. Very annoying to read. 

For other new users of the HBD, I encourage you to read the information at the
front of each HBD regarding the use of the Sierra Homebrew Archives for FAQs,
past HBDs, and other brewing files. My own file, How To Brew Your First Beer,
describing everything a first timer wants to know about beermaking, is also
available there. This site contains most of the basics of Beginning and
Advanced brewing as well as a wealth of recipes in a compendium known as The
Cats Meow (reference to the witch scene at the beginning of MacBeth).
<You know, as I reviewed the intro paragraph of the HBD, I thought it could be
a bit more explicit as to what the archives Are and the amount of data there. I
am fairly confident that newbies don't realize the extent. Rob?>
**
The current rules for the use of specialty grains are:
1. When using specialty grains like Crystal in conjunction with Extract
brewing, the preferred practice is steeping in a Grain Bag between 155-170F.
The Just-Before-Boiling approach is a bit risky.
2. The types of grains that can be utilized in this manner are the Crystal
Malts and the highly roasted malts. The crystal malt sugars are available
without mashing. The highly roasted malts such as Chocolate and Black Patent
will contribute most of their character without mashing. (The sugars are toast)
Unmalted Roast Barley will also.
**
I must admit some trepidation in the archiving of Rich Webbs All-Grain Guide to
Sierra. Several points were raised here regarding the accuracy of the
information presented. I don't want to critisize the work that went into the
document, it is a fine effort, but was it revised per the comments of the HBD? 
I do not want to seem proprietary with All-Grain information, in view of the
All-Grain Brewing FAQ which I am compiling with several other HBDer's inputs,
It is just that I view the Sierra Archives as a technical library where
documents are accepted as having undergone peer review and are perceived as
being the best information to date. I dislike the thought of a public record
that contains inaccuracies. This is my opinion, I don't expect everyone to
share it. 
By the way, The All-Grain FAQ should be completed next month. It will contain
sections on Malting and Mashing chemistry, temperature rests, Mashing schedules
and applicability to specific beer styles (including Decoction), List of common
malts and specialty grains, and a discussion of the most common types of
Mashing/Lautering systems including Zapap, Coolers, Easymashers, Converted Kegs
and RIMS. (I need an input on RIMS, btw. I know it is covered extensivly in
Zymurgy, but a concise outline of its Ins and Outs would be appropriate for the
FAQ I think.)

Respectfully,
John Palmer  Metallurgist for International Space Station Alpha
palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com  

Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 16:09:22 GMT
From: rmoucka at OMN.COM (RONALD MOUCKA)
Subject: recipe request


Brewers,

A very good friend and accomplished brewer who does not have
access to HBD needs a recipe.  All the local distributors
seem to have dropped Duvel (sp?) from their list of imported
brews and none of the local stores have any in stock.  Does
anyone have a good clone recipe?  I'm sure he would prefer
all grain.

Thanks very much for your help.  Private e-mail okay.

       .:.
      :.:.
    /|~~~~|
   (_| D  |
     |  B |   Ron Moucka, Brewmaster
     `----'   DayBar Brewing, Ltd.
  "It's not so much an indication of our legal structure
   as it is a reflection of our abilities."

rmoucka at omn.com

           This message created on OMN BBS (303) 667-1149 data

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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 11:14:17 -0700
From: Don Put <dput at csulb.edu>
Subject: Temperature-Controlled Fermenter

Hello, all:

Some thoughts on temperature-controlled fermentation:

I have also noticed how exothermic fermentation is when the OG is
especially high.  My basement stays about 65F in the summer, and I cool 
my wort down to about the same temperature before I pitch.  However, once
fermentation kicks into high gear the fermenter (a 15.5 Sankey keg) 
feels warm to the touch.  Solution?  Visit an internet friend (Bob Jones 
comes immediately to mind), ply him with beers (actually, he bought them), 
and talk him out of the extra temperature-controlled fermentation chamber 
that he had in his garage. :-)  This may not work for all concerned because 
he only had one, and it's mine, mine, ALL MINE!   It's ideal for secondary 
and lagering (two 5 gallon carboys fit fine), but a 15.5 gallon keg won't 
fit.

Seriously, this arrangement, or any refrigerator/freezer-type setup will work
very well, but I think the best way is to create a unit that relies on 
liquid cooling (e.g., glycol) instead of air cooling.  With this in 
mind, Bob and I kicked around an idea (this was before partaking of Bob's 
Barley Wine) for a jacketed keg that would recirculate coolant at the right 
temperature.  This is nothing new, but trying to make a setup without 
spending a fortune is the challenge, and the smaller units now available are
BIG $$$$$$$.  Here's my idea:

I have access to a used drinking fountain that has a built-in 
cooler arrangement.  This unit has the cooling coils wrapped around an
internal tank that holds the water.  What I intend to do is modify the cooler
by installing an adjustable thermostat probe on the coolant return side so 
that I can dial in any temperature I wish.  After this, I plan on adding a 
small, cheap pump to circulate the coolant from the cooler to the jacketed 
fermenter, i.e., the above-mentioned Sankey keg.  By using quick hydraulic 
disconnects (you could use the cheap ones available for water), I will be 
able to hook/unhook the cooling unit with a minimum of trouble and coolant 
leakage.  This would allow me to clean the keg as easily as I do now.

The Sankey keg will be jacketed with SS and I will use some inner baffles to 
control the coolant movement to make sure the keg temperature is as uniform 
as possible.  Perhaps the baffling will even be uneccessary.  Perhaps I'll
just wrap copper coils aroung the keg, though the heat transfer wouldn't be
nearly as efficient.  If you've been on the Anchor tour and looked at the 
aging tanks in the basement, you'll have a good idea of how I plan on welding 
the jacket to the keg to create the necessary coolant movement.

The other method for doing this, as Bob pointed out to me, is to use a 
freezer or refrigerator to cool the glycol supply.  This is a simpler 
solution (pardon the pun), but refrigeration is in short supply in my
brewery and this drinking fountain is available.  In addition to this, my
reefer is seldom at the temperatures needed for primary ale fermentation as
it is used as a storage and conditioning/lagering unit.

Still another method is to use the cooler to cool water that would then
be circulated in a tub big enough to set the keg in.  This is similar to
what many of us do in really hot weather, but it has the added advantage of
the extra cooling power and precise temperature control.  This is also much 
simpler than having a jacketed fermenter, however, I do have access to a 
heliarc and I love to tinker!

Anyone out there use a small, jacketed primary fermenter?  Anyone have any
ideas to add to this discussion?  I know this is pretty esoteric, but it 
could be interesting.  I plan on tinkering with this over the winter so that
it will be ready for next summer.  With winter approaching, I don't 
really need it until then.

don
dput at csulb.edu
                            Idyllwild Brewery, CA
       (Home of "Nuclear Winter Holiday Cheer" - A blast in every bottle)


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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 15:12 CDT
From: bronson at mcs.com (Edward Bronson)
Subject: Cherry Brew

    I just received a gallon of fresh unadulterated Wisconsin 
    cherry juice!  Anyone with any experience or ideas about 
    using cherry juice in a batch of homebrew?  All-grain,
    partial, or extract OK.  I'm not considering a plambic.
    Thanks!

    Ed Bronson    <bronson at mcs.com>    brewer, kayaker, stud

Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 15:15:44 CST  
From: "David Sapsis" <dbsapsis at nature.Berkeley.EDU>
Subject: homegrown hops redux

I thought I'd share my experiences and views on the use of homegrown hops,
given that it it is harvest season and questions abound.
I've been growing hops for seven years, since first getting rhizomes from Dave
Wills (Freshops) while a student at Oregon State.  At that time Dave had a
two well established hop yards that he was growing trials in and using for
plant propogation.  Much of what I learned about culturing, harvesting,
and oasting (drying) I learned from him.  In addition, I became aqainted with
a principle farm equipment manager in St. Paul, OR. -- the center of the
Willamette Valley hop growing region.  Some of the basic trade practices I
was able to glean from him.  Most of the questions out there concern how to
dry and use your bounty, so I will focus there, assuming that you do have
some flowers to harvest.  Again, the information is based solely on my
experience, it may very well work differently for you.

DRYING: Commercial hops are oasted at temps ranging from 60-75^C (140-167^F)
because of the huge volume coming in from the harvester.  Actual temps used
depend on hop characteristics and harvest logistics .Generally, hop
moisture content at picking is around 80-100%, meaning that around as much
mass of free water is held in the wet cone as is left over after removal of
all free water.  This is considered a "dry-weight" basis, in that the weight
change between wet and dry is divided by the finished dry weight.  I have an
ultraviolet dryer attachment to an electronic balance here at work that
allows me to sample moisture content very quicky (drying time approx. 3
min.) and have found mature hop cones from my yard to range from 40% for
dried browning flowers, to 130% for full, big green flowers. I should note
that I have found considerable variability in hop flower development, and
if I wait to harvest at what appears to be optimum timing, there are
invariably some hops that are overmature (brown). At harvest, most
of my crop this year averaged about 90%MC.  Commercially, hops are dried to
less than 10% to avoid secondary decomposition and infection.  Hops, as you
are aware, are highly volatile, and the presence of too much moisture in a
hop bale can lead to spontaneous combustion (I believe that HopUnion has
lost two wherehouses to fires from this source).  Usually the target is
around 7-8%MC, which has been found to offer the best storage
characteristics.  The advantage of using high temperatures to dry hops
commercially is soley predicated on speed of drying.  The disadvantages
mainly involve driving off low level volatiles such as myracine that are
significant components of the hop oil profile contributing to aromatic
qualities.  This is why (in addition to freshness) homegrown hops dried at
lower temperatures smell fundamentally different than their commercial
counterparts.  Over the years I have tried a number od methods for drying,
including oasting in large forced-air driers used for drying plant sample
material.  I have used a range of temperatures from 40 - 60^C, but have been
relatively dissatified with the results.  In addition to smelling up the
entire floor of my building (I liked it, others did not) I was unable to get
uniform drying even with a hop thickness of only one cone.  Where there were
cones touching or against solid portions of the rack, moisture would remain,
and browning would occur.  Although I have been told (and my own experience
verifies) that hop appearance has no bearing on quality, I prefer to have
good looking green hops.  The last two years, I have used the ambient
air-dry on window screen method to excellent results.  The hop aroma profile
is much more to my liking, the drying is more uniform, and additionally it
provides a means for removal of any bugs that may be living on the cones.
That is, after spreading out the cut hops, the aphids -- that I have always had
some degree of at harvest time -- simply abandon ship by heading for the
corners of the window screen.  I have found that three days in my garage
brings the hops down to 10-13% MC, which I feel is sufficiently dry given
that I pack in barrier bags and store in a freezer (hence no fire hazard),
look nice and green, and have aromatic qualities that I have been unable to
find in any boughten North American hops.  I grow Cascade, Perle, and
Hallertuaer, and had my largest harvest ever this year, approx. 5 lbs. dry
weight.  Please note: the labor involved in picking such a quantity of hops
is huge -- harvesting has spanned three weekends and multiple pickers.  It
takes between about 1500 and 3000 cones to make a pound from my crop,
depending on size, and that represents a lot of effort just to remove them
from the vines and leaves.

USING:
Given that the greatest advantage of fresh homegrown hops lies in their
enhanced aromatic qualities, and in general, when using them for bittering
you are using an unkown amount of bittering compound, I reserve the majority
of my harvest for flavor and aromatic uses.  However, in an attempt to
inquire about the use of whole wet hops, I recently brewed two batches using
freshly picked (that day) hops.  I will post how these efforts turn out.  In
a more robust experiment on the nature of wet vs. dry hops, I took identical
conelieus kegs of a Liberty Ale clone (10 gallons fermeted in a single
vessel, racked to the kegs after primary, then chilled to 2^C) and cold
hopped each with an equal amount of wet and dry Cascades (90 g in the case
of the wet and 50 g in the dry because the wet cones were at 80% MC).  The
results indicate, based on blind tasting by a number of experienced tasters,
is a significant difference in the beer nose, and a much more subdued but
evident difference in the flavor.  The wet-hopped keg has a more
perfumey character that some described as grassy or floral.  The flavor to
me bears a slight resemblance to beers that have had hop oil extract added
- -- not entirely to my personal liking.  In any event, the dried-hop keg
tastes more to my liking (and not surprisingly more like Liberty).  Thus,
although it appears that both wet and dried hops may be used for aromatics,
I found no advantage to the use of the former.  I have reserved  some wet
cones (frozen) to apply a more controlled experiment on the use of wet vs.
dry for full kettle additions (i.e, a similar split batch experiment).  In
talking with Mark Garetz the other night, he indicated that Gail Nickerson,
the research chemist at Oregon State/USDA Ag Research Station, will run a
complete profile of a sent sample (I believe that she requires 5-10 g) for
$30.  Be warned, however, that this will result in only one datum, and that
multiple samples would be required to get a good estimator of mean values as
well as variablity.  I am planning on sending her some of mine just to get
an idea of how well I can get bittering compounds out of my backyard.
Let me via e-mail if you wish to correspond with her.

SUMMARY:
My experience indicates that homegrown hops have significantly different
aromatic characteristics than their commercial counterparts.  This
difference is enhanced by drying at moderate (ambient summer) temperatures
where air flow around each individual cone is maximized.  Drying in my
climate takes approximately three days.  The use of wet hops for
post-primary additions were less desireable than the dried ones *in this one
experiment*.  It needs to be replicated with other styles/hop varieties to
give a better idea of the potential uses of wet hops.  The jury on use of
wet hops for full kettle additions is still pending.  I hope this
information has been of value.
Cheers,
David

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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 18:59:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: DanJo <danjo at nando.net>
Subject: Mini-keg,carboy cap,yeast tips


The answers to questions asked by novices here on HBD from time to time 
helped to supplement what I read in books about homebrewing. Also, any 
new and current advice for simple processes and procedures are needed 
here to continually update the archives for reference.  There are many 
lurking  novice brewers and HBD subscribers who depend on someone at some time
to ask those questions so that there will be a reference about the subject in
the archives.

The following novice tips are from my trial and error processes during my 
beginning stages of homebrewing. Maybe they will help another novice 
brewer someday. 

Mini Kegs:  
The tap I bought is the metal variety but I assume that all varieties 
contain many various o-rings and rubber seals.  To prevent some foaming and co2 
leakage, lubricate the all the parts mentioned with a food-grade petroleum
jelly. The seals and integrity of the co2 channels and beverage channels 
is enhanced by this procedure.

Wyeast pop-packs:		
Save money by dividing an expanded pop-pack into six  -  10 ml. srew tops 
test tubes. Boil tubes and caps and fill with yeast from pop-pack, then 
refrigerate in a zip-lock baggy.  Keep a jar of  malt extract in the fridge
and boil your starter using approx. 4 tablespoons and 1 pint of water (10 
min. ). Pour the cooled wort and one shaken yeast tube's contents  into a 
beer bottle with a drilled stopper and airlock ( shake vigorously prior to
attaching the airlock) .Use the last tube to start another 6 tubes (1 pack of 
yeast = infinite pitchings& $ savings). 

Carboys:		
I *always* use carboy handles  and I like the ease of the carboy cap.  
The cap is easy to use and when racking to secondary, the cap gets the 
siphon started by blowing ( no infection problems here) in the small tube on
the cap while the racking tube is in the large tube of the cap. The cap also
holds the racking cane in place while allowing the air through the small tube to
replace siphoned beer . Both the carboy caps and handles happen to be color
coordinated (orange) to reflect a certain professional style.

Info search:		
The best topic ( thread ) source I have found is the Spencer's Beer Page 
on WWW. There is a list of already threaded topics from HBD that can be 
viewed and selected without having to search from scratch. Just think, there
would not be a thread for novice questions if a novice had not asked to begin 
with. 

Thanks to John Palmer and all the advanced brewers here that 
welcome and gently enlighten the neophytes of craft brewing.

Dan Johnson
Danjo at nando.net.com
Raleigh, NC 



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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 15:58:00 GMT
From: jeff.guillet at lcabin.com (Jeff Guillet)
Subject: Carboy Carriers


My reply to guy at beluga.must.com bounced so I'm posting here.

You posted about carboy carriers in the HBD on 9/14/94.

The only reason I don't use one is because they are only designed to 
carry EMPTY carboys.  They're not strong enough to carry a carboy full
of liquid.

Most of the posts I've read have been stories of dropping carboys
full  of either beer or more often cleaning solution (glass, water,
and blood  everywhere!).  Most people drop carboys full of cleaning
solution  (usually bleach) because it makes the glass surface very
slippery. 

Just my two capfuls.


=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 Jeff - <jeff.guillet at lcabin.com>
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
- ---
* CMPQwk #1.4* UNREGISTERED EVALUATION COPY

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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 16:24:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Frane <gummitch at teleport.com>
Subject: Re: cracking flasks (no, not hip flasks)

Bart Thielges is breaking labware:

> So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort)
> up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK.  Sure enough,
> a huge crack has developed across the bottom of the flask.  Fortunately,
> the wort is only slowly leaking out and didn't make a complete mess of the
> stovetop.
> 
> I thought that stardard homebrew yeast rancher procedure was to heat
> the flask on a standard range top, not a labratory grade ($$$) hot
> plate.  Regarding the Kimax, the shop employee informed me that Kimax
> and Pyrex have the same properties and quality.  So I'm out of luck.
> 

Although Kimax and Pyrex labware is designed to take high heat, it's not
generally used with a direct flame -- which is itself much hotter than
necessary for sterilizing wort.  It's true that standard procedure calls
for flaming the mouth of the flask, but...

If you have access to a pressure cooker, you should put your starter
medium in the flask and autoclave the whole thing.  Or, boil the starter
and add it to a sterilized flask.  But if you keep putting them on the
burner, I think you're going to be buying a lot of flasks over the next
few years.

- --Jeff


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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 18:59:38 PDT
From: berkun at decwet.enet.dec.com
Subject: Aphid Ale

Has anyone else seen this problem?  I never spotted any aphids on
my hops while they were growing.  But during drying aphids appeared
en mass.  There are also a few other misc. bugs, lady bug larvae (good),
ants, small things with wings and the occasional spider. 

I never sprayed at all during growing season, because I never saw any
bugs outside of the occasional lady bug (which, of course, must have
been eating something).

So how I can salvage these hops?  As the hops dry, many aphids die and
fall off, but I doubt it's all of them.  I've thought of putting the
hops into a net and shaking it.

Any ideas?

thanks,

KenB.
Seattle

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Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 19:37:51
From: lkbonham at beerlaw.win.net (Louis K. Bonham)
Subject: Stainless False Bottoms Revisited

As some of you may recall, a few months ago I posted a message on
my use of a hinged perforated stainless steel false bottoms in a
Sankey keg mash/lauter tun.  Many of you inquired where these could
be had.  I passed along all such requests to the guy that made
mine, but unfortunately he did not seem inclined to want to make any
more. 

This afternoon I was at DeFalco's in Houston (713-523-8154) and
learned that they now have a few in stock.  Price is $50. All
stainless steel, 3/32" perforations, virtually indestructable, very
easy to clean, very fast and efficient lautering.  *Highly*
recommended if you use a converted Sankey keg as a mash tun.

Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in either DeFalco's of
Houston or the marketing of this product.   




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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 02:23:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: fischer <kfischer at ucssun1.sdsu.edu>
Subject: Raseberry Ale


Anyone got a good recipe for a raseberry ale?  I was at the San Diego 
street scene and Hops Brewery had one they were sampling.  It was great.  
I looked in the Cats meow for a recipe, but none looked to good...I am 
looking for something with dry malts, not canned extract, but not too 
technical since I've only brewed 3 batches.  

Thanks
Keith

kfischer at ucssun1.sdsu.edu


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Date: 16 Sep 94 12:09:00 GMT
From: gcw at lydian.att.com
Subject: Long Valley Brewfest and Street Fair

Dear Fellow Beer Enthusiast,
                  
The response from the Internet has been fabulous, so I would like to 
again acquaint you to the Long Valley Pub and Brewery and to 
invite you to the first annual Long Valley Street Fair and Brewfest.
 
The Festival will be held on Saturday, October 22, 1994, in Long Valley, 
New Jersey from 12 to 8pm with a rain date on the 23rd. Long Valley is 
located at the intersection of Routes 24 and 517 in Western Morris County. 
The festival will take place in the historic district of Long Valley and 
consist of a day filled with fine food and microbrewery beer, live music 
and local craft vendors (>100). Tents will be setup for beer tasting in the 
parking lot and field adjacent to the 200 year old stone barn that is being 
renovated and will be the home of the Long Valley Pub and Brewery. 

As this event theme is "A Family Day in the Country" there will be lots 
of activities setup for children. So come on down enjoy the fall colors,
some great brews and food and even take a hay ride for pumpkin picking.

We encourage homebrew clubs and shops to invite their members and organize 
bus transportation to make this festival a safe and enjoyable one.
 
Featured will be over 40 beers from 20 micro and craft brewers. Advance
tickets are $15 (check/money order - Long Valley Pub & Brewery, PO Box
368, Long Valley, NJ, 07853) and will be $20 (cash only) at the door. There 
will also be over 100 crafters at the street fair and activities for
children.

We're looking forward to making this an annual event to be appreciated by 
both beer connoisseurs and microbrewers. 

For additional information and "official" order forms send email to
gcw at lydian.att.com (Geoff Woods) or call 908-832-9767. Please include your 
name and full mail address with all ticket orders and info request.

Sincerely,

Long Valley Pub and Brewery

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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 9:37:47 EDT
From: jwc at med.unc.edu (John W. Carpenter)
Subject: Broken Flasks/Starters

>From: bart at nexgen.com (Bart Thielges)
>Subject: A real crack up
>
>So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort)
>up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK.  Sure enough,
>a huge crack has developed across the bottom of the flask.  Fortunately,
>the wort is only slowly leaking out and didn't make a complete mess of the
>stovetop.

I haven't done this myself with starter, but why not fill your flask with
the amount of starter at what ever gravity you like, and put it in the
microwave. I'm sure it would be boiling in less than 5 minutes. I've used
flasks is microwaves and never had one crack on me. You may want to put a
paper towel or something over the top of it in case it boil's over.

John Carpenter

 

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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 09:44:27 EDT
From: Btalk at aol.com
Subject: herbal hops remedy

This is from a Herbal Health Care catalog:
HOPS FLOWER. Valuable for those with insomnia. Will produce sleep when
nothing else will. Has been used successfully to decrease the desire for
alcohol. Will tone the liver.
Available whole, powder or capsules.

Interesting combination of effects, eh?

regards,
Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton,NY <btalk at aol.com>


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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 9:54:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: COX003 at WCSUB.CTSTATEU.EDU
Subject: To bitter a brew

Hello all.  I've just finsished transfering a 15 gallon batch to the secondarie
and took a gravity reading of 016.  This batch was a coffe,chocalate porter a
sorta a weird combo I relize but it was printed in the Cats meow and sounded
pretty good.  The problem is it is already to bitter, mostly from the bakers
chocalate, i believe.  Does anyone think that adding malto-dextrin would
make it sweeter?  Feel free just to write me if you choose.
      Thanks to all for the great info...

the masked manic beer brewing pickle eating man
        Aaron (cox003 at wcsub.ctstate.edu)

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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 10:02:41 EDT
From: "Lee A. Menegoni" <lmenegoni at nectech.com>
Subject: Ofest/ Fix / Grain


Since the publication of the Fix's  book availibility of quality grain has 
improved, see George Fix article on the DC Belgium grains in the 1st or 2nd 
issue of Brewing Techniques it also includes newer recipes for these beers 
based on Belgian malts.  

Doctor Fix himself has noted on HBD that the malt available from Durst in 
Germany was of high quality and a much lower price point than another 
quality malt from Ireks.  From my personal inspection of grains from the 
two German maltsters I have found that the Durst is more modified than the 
Ireks.  One would be more correct in lableing the Ireks as a less modified 
malt than an under modified malt since it exhibits a fair amount of 
acrospire (sp?) development.  

I have brewed fest beers with 80% DC munich, 17% pilsner, 1% aromatic, 1% 
biscuit and 1% mixed crystal which was quite tasty and had very nice malty 
aroma, if I brewed this again I would increase the munich to 90-95%.
I have also brewed similar recipes using 80-90% vienna malt, about 10% 
munich, 3-5% Pilsner and 1% biscuit and 1% mixed crystals with very good 
results. My preference is for the German Ireks malt for this style since I 
do a decoction mash.  The Pilsner malt may not be necessary I include it 
because of its high diastic power to help ensure total conversion.

I have had good luck with both 2308 and 2124 yeast

I don't use Gypsum, I think it adds too much sulfate and produces a harsh 
bitterness that isn't part of the style.

Don't over hop the beer, I use only a single addition of hops at 1 hour 
this results in a beer with no hop aroma and little hop flavor which is 
right on with the style guide lines.  Hop aroma masks the malty aroma which 
is an important part of this style.

I have been attempting to clone Spaten Ur Marzen for years with improving 
results, this style shows the craft of the German brewer and the melding of 
malt, hops, water and yeast.  Every one of these components is important in 
producing a German style Ofest.   A BJCP judge once made a very appropriate 
comment on one of my Fests it was a good beer but " The devil is in the 
details"
    

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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 10:37:28 -0400 (EDT)
From: Greg Demkowicz <demkowg at iia.org>
Subject: Re: Flasks


>From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones)
>Subject: Breaking flasks

>>From: bart at nexgen.com (Bart Thielges)
>>Subject: A real crack up
>>
>>So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort)
>>up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK.  Sure enough,
>>a huge crack has developed across the bottom of the flask.  Fortunately,
>>Snip
>>Has anyone else had this problem before ?  I'd like to make sure that
>>I'm doing the right thing before I break another expensive piece of
>>
>buy a wire trivet or just make one out of a coat hanger. Personaly I have
>went away from using the flask on a stove method of making starters, I have
>moved on to pressure cooking several starters well in advance. That way they

I could'nt agree more! I moved to a pressure cooker about 2 yesrs ago,
and what a time saver. Normally, I will make up about 2 gals of hopped wort,
swirl it to leave the break behind, and drain in to pint and  qt canning
jars (and a bunch of 1 oz t-tubes for inoculation). Then into the
pressure cooker. 

>are cool and insured to be sterile. Actually I think the flask geometry is
>pretty poor for starters. The tappering neck is not what you want. You want
>to maximize the surface area, to maximize the O2 exposure. After 
breaking a
>couple of flasks I have went to a 200ml screw top flask for the first stage
>(I only put 30ml in it) and a 1 gallon wine jug for the later stages of
>growth. The glass wine jugs are cheap, straight sided and sanitize well.

I use an intermediate step of a 1 quart bottle. For 10 gallon batches, 
another 1 gal wine bottle is needed.

Greg


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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 10:42
From: KWH at roadnet.ups.com (KWH)
Subject: Carboy handles

>> Lotsa bandwidth has been dedicated to crashing carboys of late and I 
>> would like to hear from people who use carboy carriers.  The carrier 
fits >> around the neck of the carboy and has a handle attached.  
Everything is 
>> coated the rubber, so it's non-slip.  I've read every book, magazine, 
and 
stuff deleted...

>I've used them, and my basic advice for other people that use them is:
>Don't use them for holding up the full weight of the carboy.

>I ended up with 5 gallons of good Cabernet Sauvignon on the floor of the
>basement because the "non-slip" rubber did.  IMHO they're only good as
>another method of holding on to the neck, the weight of the carboy should
>be supported by a hand underneath.

I've used one of these on one carboy, but I certainly have my doubts about 
them -- specifically using the neck of the carboy for a fulcrum.  
Supporting the carboy underneath is probably the only safe way to use 
these, which makes me wonder if there is a significant advantage to using 
them over just grabbing the neck.  The biggest help, in my opinion, is 
having something to hold when you are rinsing slippery sanitizing 
solutions, which is probably worth the price.

The main problems that I see are in the ergonomics.  If you are carrying a 
full carboy down stairs, you don't have a free hand to use the stair 
railing, and the bulk of the carboy is in front, blocking your view of the 
stairs (and what may be on them).  I have been thinking about the carriers 
that are basically a large pouch with handles the carboy sits in.  I 
suppose these could be modified to a sling going over one shoulder, so the 
weight would be supported by your legs, both hands would be free to steady 
the carboy and keep your balance, and the carboy would by supported more on 
the side than directly in front of you.  Or you could just build a dumb 
waiter......

Working with heavy volumes in glassware concerns me about continuing this 
hobby into my "golden years".  I'm in my early 30's now, so this isn't a 
big worry.  However, I wonder how I will feel about carrying around a 7 
gallon carboy when I'm 60.  I will be forced to drastically redesign my 
process.  But then again, why not do that now, and save the wear and tear?  
Comments???

Kirk Harralson
kwh at roadnet.ups.com




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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 10:37
From: KWH at roadnet.ups.com (KWH)
Subject: Flask problems

>>So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort)
>>up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK.  Sure 
>>enough, a huge crack has developed across the bottom of the flask.  

stuff deleted....

>Yep, happened to me once. I would bet your heating the flask on an 
electric
>burner. You need a wire trivet. This little ring keeps the flask from 
>coming into direct contact with the electric burner. There is some sort of
>molecular change that takes place in the glass when it sets on an electric

I am definitely moving towards making my starters in Erlenmeyer flasks, and 
I have been warned not to heat them on my electric stove with or without 
the trivets.  I have heard that, even if you use the trivets, the life of 
the flask will be very short -- 2 or 3 batches.  The appeal of using the 
flasks, at least to me, is going through the entire cycle of heating, 
cooling, preparing, etc. in one vessel with minimal exposure to any 
potential airborn nasties.  Would the flasks be adversely affected if they 
were heated in a microwave?  Someone once posted their method of heating 
starter solution in a flask with stopper and glass airlock intact, so that 
all three pieces were heat-sanitized at the same time.  This setup seems 
ideal, but it would probably be too tall for my microwave.  Does anyone 
have any good suggestions?

Kirk Harralson
kwh at roadnet.ups.com





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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 10:52:03 EDT
From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu
Subject: Re: Trub Removal Bleus (that's French!)

Jeff Frane wrote about Trub Removal Bleus (that's French!): 
 > The bottom of the loop has been drilled with very fine holes.  I
 > disremember the gauge, but I used a Moto-tool drill with a very fine
 > bit; I was *very* careful drilling and didn't break the bit, but spares
 > are a good idea.

Jeff may not have broken his bit, but I broke a bunch of them building
one of these.  Started with something around #72, broke all of these,
and moved down to #68, which is much sturdier.  I found that center
punching the hole locations first made it much easier to start the
holes.

If your hardware store doesn't have the *reeeeeeellllyyyyy* small
drill bit sizes, try a model store.  They usually will.  My (good)
hardware store has #68, but nothing smaller.

=S

P.S. anybody want to buy some #80 bits? :-)


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Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 09:06:27 -0700
From: 1DOUGLRY at STUDENT.UVSC.EDU
Subject:  

Could you send me some information on upcoming festivals. If so I would
deeply appreciate it.


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1529, 09/17/94