HOMEBREW Digest #1529 Sat 17 September 1994

Digest #1528 Digest #1530

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Competition announcement (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Artichokes and Pyrex (Pierre Jelenc)
  Steeping Crystal (npyle)
  Northwestern malts (claytonj)
  Welcome to HBD/ Steeping Grain/All-Grain Brewing FAQ ("Palmer.John")
  recipe request (RONALD MOUCKA)
  Temperature-Controlled Fermenter (Don Put)
  Cherry Brew (Edward Bronson)
  homegrown hops redux ("David Sapsis")
  Mini-keg,carboy cap,yeast tips (DanJo)
  Carboy Carriers (Jeff Guillet)
  Re: cracking flasks (no, not hip flasks) (Jeff Frane)
  Aphid Ale (berkun)
  Stainless False Bottoms Revisited (Louis K. Bonham)
  Raseberry Ale (fischer)
  Long Valley Brewfest and Street Fair (gcw)
  Broken Flasks/Starters (John W. Carpenter)
  herbal hops remedy (Btalk)
  To bitter a brew (COX003)
  Ofest/ Fix / Grain ("Lee A. Menegoni")
  Re: Flasks (Greg Demkowicz)
  Carboy handles (KWH)
  Flask problems (KWH)
  Re: Trub Removal Bleus (that's French!) (Spencer.W.Thomas)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 15 Sep 94 14:50:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Competition announcement I'm posting this for a fellow CBS member. I'd like to point out that Chris has been the first organizer in this area to actively seek out people who *want* to be judges and arrange a sort of mentoring for them. If you have never judged before, this is a great place to learn without a lot of pressure. Al. For:Interested Homebrewers, Judges, Apprentices and Stewards. !!! CALL FOR ENTRIES !!! !!! CALL FOR JUDGES/STEWARDS !!! The Sixth Evanston First Homebrew Challenge will be held on Sunday, October 16, 1994 at Evanston First Liquors, 1019 W. Davis Street, Evanston, IL 60201. 708-328-9651. AWARDS: Merchandise and rosette ribbon awards to top 3 best of show. Rosette ribbons to runners up. Ribbons to category winners. Two bottles and $3.00 fee per entry. All 1994 AHA styles welcome. TO ENTER: Entry forms and judge/steward registration forms for this AHA/HWBTA sanctioned event are available at the store and from the organizer. JUDGE/STEWARDS: Judges, apprentice judges and stewards who register and participate will be admitted free to a gala Belgian ale tasting held right after judging concludes. Not a BJCP judge but want to learn? Sign up for apprentice judge orientation (Sunday 10-10:45 Sunday Oct.16). FOR MORE INFORMATION: Contact organizer: Christopher Nemeth, BJCPCertified Judge, Chicago Beer Society idnemeth at id.iit.edu 708.869.3621 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 11:54:30 EDT From: Pierre Jelenc <pcj1 at columbia.edu> Subject: Artichokes and Pyrex > dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) > > I have access to some sunchokes (aka Jerusalem artichokes)--they are a > sunflower with underground tubers that taste sort of like a cross > between a cabbage and a potato. There seems to be plenty of starch in > them. Unfortunately, plants of the Jerusalem artichoke family use inulin, not starch as their carbohydrate reserve. Inulin ressembles starch, but is composed mostly of fructose, and is not hydrolysed by amylases. Inulin is considerably more soluble in water than starch, but it will reprecipitate slowly upon standing. Worst of all, the shorter members of the inulin family (analogous to starch dextrins) are famous for causing intense production of intestinal gas. All may not be lost, however: the mold Aspergillus niger produces an inulinase that hydrolyses inulin to fructose and a bit of glucose. It is quite possible that koji (Aspergillus oryzae) does the same. It may be worth the try if you really want a beer that tastes like Jerusalem artichoke. > bart at nexgen.com (Bart Thielges) > > So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort) > up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK. Never heat a glass flask, even Pyrex, on a direct flame without moving it constantly through the flame. More conveniently, use a heat diffuser pad, available at any hardware store. Pierre Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 10:24:18 MDT From: npyle at hp7013.ecae.StorTek.COM Subject: Steeping Crystal Braz writes: > SINCE I'VE DONE MORE READING ABOUT BREWING BEER THAN >ACTUALLY BREWING MYSELF, I'VE NOTICED THAT ALL OF THE >RECIPES I'VE COME ACCROSS INSTRUCT THE HOMEBREWER TO ADD >THE SPECIALTY GRAINS, (IN MY CASE CRYSTAL MALT), TO THE >WATER IN THE BREWPOT AND BRING TO A BOIL MAKING SURE TO >REMOVE THE GRAINS BEFORE THE BOIL IS REACHED TO AVOID THE >UNPLEASANT PROPERTIES OF THE GRAIN TO BE RELEASED INTO THE >WORT... I DONT KNOW WHO IS CONSIDERED THE GURU OF BEER First of all, you don't have to shout; we can hear you just fine with the caps lock OFF. The guru? Well, Charlie Papazian has probably, no he has definitely done more for homebrewing in the US than any other individual. He is a good target for criticism here, but the fact remains that without Charlie, homebrewing would still be in the dark ages of American history. >MAKING AND WHO HAS SET THE STANDARDS OR METHODS IN WHICH >THE GRAINS SHOULD BE ADDED------BUT IT SEEMS TO ME THAT WE >COULD RELEASE THE POSITIVE ATTRIBUTES OF THE CRYSTAL MALT >BY STEEPING THE GRAIN IN A HOP SAC IMMERSED IN THE ONCE >BOILING WATER REMOVED FROM THE HEAT SOURCE--SAY FOR 15-20 >MINS JUST AS THE ORIENTAL PRACTICE OF MAKING TEA FROM ROSE >HIPS AND HABISCIOUS FLOWERS. Congratulations for doing some independent thinking, rather than following the crowd. Your idea has merit, and is used by more than one brewer on this net. The "unpleasant properties" of the grain are usually thought of as astringency, like the dryness of tea. This is not desired in beer. It is typically leached from grain as a function of time, temperature, and pH. Your method of steeping keeps the temperature relatively low, while allowing the pH to remain low (a natural function of the grain), for a reasonable time. Bottom line: you are correct: its a good idea; what else can I say? Cheers, Norm npyle at hp7013.ecae.stortek.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 12:54:04 EDT From: claytonj at cc.tacom.army.mil Subject: Northwestern malts Greetings, After seeing recent the discussion Northwestern malts I thought I'd add a data point of my experience using NW LME. The LME is available in the Detroit area and is much cheaper than Laaglander (sp?) or (my choice) Munton & Fison LMEs and DMEs. I've made several batches of pale ales and a porter using the LME as either all or part of the fermentables. The pale ale and a porter using only the LME and steeping specialty grains (1lb 40l crystal malt for the pale ale and .5lb 80l crystal plus black grains for the porter) I found that the resulting beers tasted great but the body / mouth feel was too thin for my taste. BTW I used Wyeast American ale for the PA and London for the porter. I've made a couple more PAs using 3.3lb NW LME and 3lb M&F light DME (plus around 1lb crystal malt) and the body seems to be much better. I have also tried using maltodextrin and it has also helped. My buddy uses the NW LME, with specialty grains, exclusively and his beers and IMHO, they are also too thin. Anyone else have similar experience? Joe C. ***** To mash or not to mash, that is the question. -Me. Return to table of contents
Date: 15 Sep 1994 10:50:26 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Welcome to HBD/ Steeping Grain/All-Grain Brewing FAQ Howdy Group, Welcome to the HBD, Braz. That was a good post, and indeed is a Frequently Asked Question here. Before I reply to it, I would like to mention that using all capital letters in a post is frowned upon, as it is interpreted as SHOUTING. Very annoying to read. For other new users of the HBD, I encourage you to read the information at the front of each HBD regarding the use of the Sierra Homebrew Archives for FAQs, past HBDs, and other brewing files. My own file, How To Brew Your First Beer, describing everything a first timer wants to know about beermaking, is also available there. This site contains most of the basics of Beginning and Advanced brewing as well as a wealth of recipes in a compendium known as The Cats Meow (reference to the witch scene at the beginning of MacBeth). <You know, as I reviewed the intro paragraph of the HBD, I thought it could be a bit more explicit as to what the archives Are and the amount of data there. I am fairly confident that newbies don't realize the extent. Rob?> ** The current rules for the use of specialty grains are: 1. When using specialty grains like Crystal in conjunction with Extract brewing, the preferred practice is steeping in a Grain Bag between 155-170F. The Just-Before-Boiling approach is a bit risky. 2. The types of grains that can be utilized in this manner are the Crystal Malts and the highly roasted malts. The crystal malt sugars are available without mashing. The highly roasted malts such as Chocolate and Black Patent will contribute most of their character without mashing. (The sugars are toast) Unmalted Roast Barley will also. ** I must admit some trepidation in the archiving of Rich Webbs All-Grain Guide to Sierra. Several points were raised here regarding the accuracy of the information presented. I don't want to critisize the work that went into the document, it is a fine effort, but was it revised per the comments of the HBD? I do not want to seem proprietary with All-Grain information, in view of the All-Grain Brewing FAQ which I am compiling with several other HBDer's inputs, It is just that I view the Sierra Archives as a technical library where documents are accepted as having undergone peer review and are perceived as being the best information to date. I dislike the thought of a public record that contains inaccuracies. This is my opinion, I don't expect everyone to share it. By the way, The All-Grain FAQ should be completed next month. It will contain sections on Malting and Mashing chemistry, temperature rests, Mashing schedules and applicability to specific beer styles (including Decoction), List of common malts and specialty grains, and a discussion of the most common types of Mashing/Lautering systems including Zapap, Coolers, Easymashers, Converted Kegs and RIMS. (I need an input on RIMS, btw. I know it is covered extensivly in Zymurgy, but a concise outline of its Ins and Outs would be appropriate for the FAQ I think.) Respectfully, John Palmer Metallurgist for International Space Station Alpha palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 16:09:22 GMT From: rmoucka at OMN.COM (RONALD MOUCKA) Subject: recipe request Brewers, A very good friend and accomplished brewer who does not have access to HBD needs a recipe. All the local distributors seem to have dropped Duvel (sp?) from their list of imported brews and none of the local stores have any in stock. Does anyone have a good clone recipe? I'm sure he would prefer all grain. Thanks very much for your help. Private e-mail okay. .:. :.:. /|~~~~| (_| D | | B | Ron Moucka, Brewmaster `----' DayBar Brewing, Ltd. "It's not so much an indication of our legal structure as it is a reflection of our abilities." rmoucka at omn.com This message created on OMN BBS (303) 667-1149 data Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 11:14:17 -0700 From: Don Put <dput at csulb.edu> Subject: Temperature-Controlled Fermenter Hello, all: Some thoughts on temperature-controlled fermentation: I have also noticed how exothermic fermentation is when the OG is especially high. My basement stays about 65F in the summer, and I cool my wort down to about the same temperature before I pitch. However, once fermentation kicks into high gear the fermenter (a 15.5 Sankey keg) feels warm to the touch. Solution? Visit an internet friend (Bob Jones comes immediately to mind), ply him with beers (actually, he bought them), and talk him out of the extra temperature-controlled fermentation chamber that he had in his garage. :-) This may not work for all concerned because he only had one, and it's mine, mine, ALL MINE! It's ideal for secondary and lagering (two 5 gallon carboys fit fine), but a 15.5 gallon keg won't fit. Seriously, this arrangement, or any refrigerator/freezer-type setup will work very well, but I think the best way is to create a unit that relies on liquid cooling (e.g., glycol) instead of air cooling. With this in mind, Bob and I kicked around an idea (this was before partaking of Bob's Barley Wine) for a jacketed keg that would recirculate coolant at the right temperature. This is nothing new, but trying to make a setup without spending a fortune is the challenge, and the smaller units now available are BIG $$$$$$$. Here's my idea: I have access to a used drinking fountain that has a built-in cooler arrangement. This unit has the cooling coils wrapped around an internal tank that holds the water. What I intend to do is modify the cooler by installing an adjustable thermostat probe on the coolant return side so that I can dial in any temperature I wish. After this, I plan on adding a small, cheap pump to circulate the coolant from the cooler to the jacketed fermenter, i.e., the above-mentioned Sankey keg. By using quick hydraulic disconnects (you could use the cheap ones available for water), I will be able to hook/unhook the cooling unit with a minimum of trouble and coolant leakage. This would allow me to clean the keg as easily as I do now. The Sankey keg will be jacketed with SS and I will use some inner baffles to control the coolant movement to make sure the keg temperature is as uniform as possible. Perhaps the baffling will even be uneccessary. Perhaps I'll just wrap copper coils aroung the keg, though the heat transfer wouldn't be nearly as efficient. If you've been on the Anchor tour and looked at the aging tanks in the basement, you'll have a good idea of how I plan on welding the jacket to the keg to create the necessary coolant movement. The other method for doing this, as Bob pointed out to me, is to use a freezer or refrigerator to cool the glycol supply. This is a simpler solution (pardon the pun), but refrigeration is in short supply in my brewery and this drinking fountain is available. In addition to this, my reefer is seldom at the temperatures needed for primary ale fermentation as it is used as a storage and conditioning/lagering unit. Still another method is to use the cooler to cool water that would then be circulated in a tub big enough to set the keg in. This is similar to what many of us do in really hot weather, but it has the added advantage of the extra cooling power and precise temperature control. This is also much simpler than having a jacketed fermenter, however, I do have access to a heliarc and I love to tinker! Anyone out there use a small, jacketed primary fermenter? Anyone have any ideas to add to this discussion? I know this is pretty esoteric, but it could be interesting. I plan on tinkering with this over the winter so that it will be ready for next summer. With winter approaching, I don't really need it until then. don dput at csulb.edu Idyllwild Brewery, CA (Home of "Nuclear Winter Holiday Cheer" - A blast in every bottle) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 15:12 CDT From: bronson at mcs.com (Edward Bronson) Subject: Cherry Brew I just received a gallon of fresh unadulterated Wisconsin cherry juice! Anyone with any experience or ideas about using cherry juice in a batch of homebrew? All-grain, partial, or extract OK. I'm not considering a plambic. Thanks! Ed Bronson <bronson at mcs.com> brewer, kayaker, stud Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 15:15:44 CST From: "David Sapsis" <dbsapsis at nature.Berkeley.EDU> Subject: homegrown hops redux I thought I'd share my experiences and views on the use of homegrown hops, given that it it is harvest season and questions abound. I've been growing hops for seven years, since first getting rhizomes from Dave Wills (Freshops) while a student at Oregon State. At that time Dave had a two well established hop yards that he was growing trials in and using for plant propogation. Much of what I learned about culturing, harvesting, and oasting (drying) I learned from him. In addition, I became aqainted with a principle farm equipment manager in St. Paul, OR. -- the center of the Willamette Valley hop growing region. Some of the basic trade practices I was able to glean from him. Most of the questions out there concern how to dry and use your bounty, so I will focus there, assuming that you do have some flowers to harvest. Again, the information is based solely on my experience, it may very well work differently for you. DRYING: Commercial hops are oasted at temps ranging from 60-75^C (140-167^F) because of the huge volume coming in from the harvester. Actual temps used depend on hop characteristics and harvest logistics .Generally, hop moisture content at picking is around 80-100%, meaning that around as much mass of free water is held in the wet cone as is left over after removal of all free water. This is considered a "dry-weight" basis, in that the weight change between wet and dry is divided by the finished dry weight. I have an ultraviolet dryer attachment to an electronic balance here at work that allows me to sample moisture content very quicky (drying time approx. 3 min.) and have found mature hop cones from my yard to range from 40% for dried browning flowers, to 130% for full, big green flowers. I should note that I have found considerable variability in hop flower development, and if I wait to harvest at what appears to be optimum timing, there are invariably some hops that are overmature (brown). At harvest, most of my crop this year averaged about 90%MC. Commercially, hops are dried to less than 10% to avoid secondary decomposition and infection. Hops, as you are aware, are highly volatile, and the presence of too much moisture in a hop bale can lead to spontaneous combustion (I believe that HopUnion has lost two wherehouses to fires from this source). Usually the target is around 7-8%MC, which has been found to offer the best storage characteristics. The advantage of using high temperatures to dry hops commercially is soley predicated on speed of drying. The disadvantages mainly involve driving off low level volatiles such as myracine that are significant components of the hop oil profile contributing to aromatic qualities. This is why (in addition to freshness) homegrown hops dried at lower temperatures smell fundamentally different than their commercial counterparts. Over the years I have tried a number od methods for drying, including oasting in large forced-air driers used for drying plant sample material. I have used a range of temperatures from 40 - 60^C, but have been relatively dissatified with the results. In addition to smelling up the entire floor of my building (I liked it, others did not) I was unable to get uniform drying even with a hop thickness of only one cone. Where there were cones touching or against solid portions of the rack, moisture would remain, and browning would occur. Although I have been told (and my own experience verifies) that hop appearance has no bearing on quality, I prefer to have good looking green hops. The last two years, I have used the ambient air-dry on window screen method to excellent results. The hop aroma profile is much more to my liking, the drying is more uniform, and additionally it provides a means for removal of any bugs that may be living on the cones. That is, after spreading out the cut hops, the aphids -- that I have always had some degree of at harvest time -- simply abandon ship by heading for the corners of the window screen. I have found that three days in my garage brings the hops down to 10-13% MC, which I feel is sufficiently dry given that I pack in barrier bags and store in a freezer (hence no fire hazard), look nice and green, and have aromatic qualities that I have been unable to find in any boughten North American hops. I grow Cascade, Perle, and Hallertuaer, and had my largest harvest ever this year, approx. 5 lbs. dry weight. Please note: the labor involved in picking such a quantity of hops is huge -- harvesting has spanned three weekends and multiple pickers. It takes between about 1500 and 3000 cones to make a pound from my crop, depending on size, and that represents a lot of effort just to remove them from the vines and leaves. USING: Given that the greatest advantage of fresh homegrown hops lies in their enhanced aromatic qualities, and in general, when using them for bittering you are using an unkown amount of bittering compound, I reserve the majority of my harvest for flavor and aromatic uses. However, in an attempt to inquire about the use of whole wet hops, I recently brewed two batches using freshly picked (that day) hops. I will post how these efforts turn out. In a more robust experiment on the nature of wet vs. dry hops, I took identical conelieus kegs of a Liberty Ale clone (10 gallons fermeted in a single vessel, racked to the kegs after primary, then chilled to 2^C) and cold hopped each with an equal amount of wet and dry Cascades (90 g in the case of the wet and 50 g in the dry because the wet cones were at 80% MC). The results indicate, based on blind tasting by a number of experienced tasters, is a significant difference in the beer nose, and a much more subdued but evident difference in the flavor. The wet-hopped keg has a more perfumey character that some described as grassy or floral. The flavor to me bears a slight resemblance to beers that have had hop oil extract added - -- not entirely to my personal liking. In any event, the dried-hop keg tastes more to my liking (and not surprisingly more like Liberty). Thus, although it appears that both wet and dried hops may be used for aromatics, I found no advantage to the use of the former. I have reserved some wet cones (frozen) to apply a more controlled experiment on the use of wet vs. dry for full kettle additions (i.e, a similar split batch experiment). In talking with Mark Garetz the other night, he indicated that Gail Nickerson, the research chemist at Oregon State/USDA Ag Research Station, will run a complete profile of a sent sample (I believe that she requires 5-10 g) for $30. Be warned, however, that this will result in only one datum, and that multiple samples would be required to get a good estimator of mean values as well as variablity. I am planning on sending her some of mine just to get an idea of how well I can get bittering compounds out of my backyard. Let me via e-mail if you wish to correspond with her. SUMMARY: My experience indicates that homegrown hops have significantly different aromatic characteristics than their commercial counterparts. This difference is enhanced by drying at moderate (ambient summer) temperatures where air flow around each individual cone is maximized. Drying in my climate takes approximately three days. The use of wet hops for post-primary additions were less desireable than the dried ones *in this one experiment*. It needs to be replicated with other styles/hop varieties to give a better idea of the potential uses of wet hops. The jury on use of wet hops for full kettle additions is still pending. I hope this information has been of value. Cheers, David Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 18:59:50 -0400 (EDT) From: DanJo <danjo at nando.net> Subject: Mini-keg,carboy cap,yeast tips The answers to questions asked by novices here on HBD from time to time helped to supplement what I read in books about homebrewing. Also, any new and current advice for simple processes and procedures are needed here to continually update the archives for reference. There are many lurking novice brewers and HBD subscribers who depend on someone at some time to ask those questions so that there will be a reference about the subject in the archives. The following novice tips are from my trial and error processes during my beginning stages of homebrewing. Maybe they will help another novice brewer someday. Mini Kegs: The tap I bought is the metal variety but I assume that all varieties contain many various o-rings and rubber seals. To prevent some foaming and co2 leakage, lubricate the all the parts mentioned with a food-grade petroleum jelly. The seals and integrity of the co2 channels and beverage channels is enhanced by this procedure. Wyeast pop-packs: Save money by dividing an expanded pop-pack into six - 10 ml. srew tops test tubes. Boil tubes and caps and fill with yeast from pop-pack, then refrigerate in a zip-lock baggy. Keep a jar of malt extract in the fridge and boil your starter using approx. 4 tablespoons and 1 pint of water (10 min. ). Pour the cooled wort and one shaken yeast tube's contents into a beer bottle with a drilled stopper and airlock ( shake vigorously prior to attaching the airlock) .Use the last tube to start another 6 tubes (1 pack of yeast = infinite pitchings& $ savings). Carboys: I *always* use carboy handles and I like the ease of the carboy cap. The cap is easy to use and when racking to secondary, the cap gets the siphon started by blowing ( no infection problems here) in the small tube on the cap while the racking tube is in the large tube of the cap. The cap also holds the racking cane in place while allowing the air through the small tube to replace siphoned beer . Both the carboy caps and handles happen to be color coordinated (orange) to reflect a certain professional style. Info search: The best topic ( thread ) source I have found is the Spencer's Beer Page on WWW. There is a list of already threaded topics from HBD that can be viewed and selected without having to search from scratch. Just think, there would not be a thread for novice questions if a novice had not asked to begin with. Thanks to John Palmer and all the advanced brewers here that welcome and gently enlighten the neophytes of craft brewing. Dan Johnson Danjo at nando.net.com Raleigh, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 15:58:00 GMT From: jeff.guillet at lcabin.com (Jeff Guillet) Subject: Carboy Carriers My reply to guy at beluga.must.com bounced so I'm posting here. You posted about carboy carriers in the HBD on 9/14/94. The only reason I don't use one is because they are only designed to carry EMPTY carboys. They're not strong enough to carry a carboy full of liquid. Most of the posts I've read have been stories of dropping carboys full of either beer or more often cleaning solution (glass, water, and blood everywhere!). Most people drop carboys full of cleaning solution (usually bleach) because it makes the glass surface very slippery. Just my two capfuls. =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Jeff - <jeff.guillet at lcabin.com> =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= - --- * CMPQwk #1.4* UNREGISTERED EVALUATION COPY Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 16:24:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Frane <gummitch at teleport.com> Subject: Re: cracking flasks (no, not hip flasks) Bart Thielges is breaking labware: > So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort) > up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK. Sure enough, > a huge crack has developed across the bottom of the flask. Fortunately, > the wort is only slowly leaking out and didn't make a complete mess of the > stovetop. > > I thought that stardard homebrew yeast rancher procedure was to heat > the flask on a standard range top, not a labratory grade ($$$) hot > plate. Regarding the Kimax, the shop employee informed me that Kimax > and Pyrex have the same properties and quality. So I'm out of luck. > Although Kimax and Pyrex labware is designed to take high heat, it's not generally used with a direct flame -- which is itself much hotter than necessary for sterilizing wort. It's true that standard procedure calls for flaming the mouth of the flask, but... If you have access to a pressure cooker, you should put your starter medium in the flask and autoclave the whole thing. Or, boil the starter and add it to a sterilized flask. But if you keep putting them on the burner, I think you're going to be buying a lot of flasks over the next few years. - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 94 18:59:38 PDT From: berkun at decwet.enet.dec.com Subject: Aphid Ale Has anyone else seen this problem? I never spotted any aphids on my hops while they were growing. But during drying aphids appeared en mass. There are also a few other misc. bugs, lady bug larvae (good), ants, small things with wings and the occasional spider. I never sprayed at all during growing season, because I never saw any bugs outside of the occasional lady bug (which, of course, must have been eating something). So how I can salvage these hops? As the hops dry, many aphids die and fall off, but I doubt it's all of them. I've thought of putting the hops into a net and shaking it. Any ideas? thanks, KenB. Seattle Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Sep 1994 19:37:51 From: lkbonham at beerlaw.win.net (Louis K. Bonham) Subject: Stainless False Bottoms Revisited As some of you may recall, a few months ago I posted a message on my use of a hinged perforated stainless steel false bottoms in a Sankey keg mash/lauter tun. Many of you inquired where these could be had. I passed along all such requests to the guy that made mine, but unfortunately he did not seem inclined to want to make any more. This afternoon I was at DeFalco's in Houston (713-523-8154) and learned that they now have a few in stock. Price is $50. All stainless steel, 3/32" perforations, virtually indestructable, very easy to clean, very fast and efficient lautering. *Highly* recommended if you use a converted Sankey keg as a mash tun. Disclaimer: I have no financial interest in either DeFalco's of Houston or the marketing of this product. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 02:23:25 -0700 (PDT) From: fischer <kfischer at ucssun1.sdsu.edu> Subject: Raseberry Ale Anyone got a good recipe for a raseberry ale? I was at the San Diego street scene and Hops Brewery had one they were sampling. It was great. I looked in the Cats meow for a recipe, but none looked to good...I am looking for something with dry malts, not canned extract, but not too technical since I've only brewed 3 batches. Thanks Keith kfischer at ucssun1.sdsu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Sep 94 12:09:00 GMT From: gcw at lydian.att.com Subject: Long Valley Brewfest and Street Fair Dear Fellow Beer Enthusiast, The response from the Internet has been fabulous, so I would like to again acquaint you to the Long Valley Pub and Brewery and to invite you to the first annual Long Valley Street Fair and Brewfest. The Festival will be held on Saturday, October 22, 1994, in Long Valley, New Jersey from 12 to 8pm with a rain date on the 23rd. Long Valley is located at the intersection of Routes 24 and 517 in Western Morris County. The festival will take place in the historic district of Long Valley and consist of a day filled with fine food and microbrewery beer, live music and local craft vendors (>100). Tents will be setup for beer tasting in the parking lot and field adjacent to the 200 year old stone barn that is being renovated and will be the home of the Long Valley Pub and Brewery. As this event theme is "A Family Day in the Country" there will be lots of activities setup for children. So come on down enjoy the fall colors, some great brews and food and even take a hay ride for pumpkin picking. We encourage homebrew clubs and shops to invite their members and organize bus transportation to make this festival a safe and enjoyable one. Featured will be over 40 beers from 20 micro and craft brewers. Advance tickets are $15 (check/money order - Long Valley Pub & Brewery, PO Box 368, Long Valley, NJ, 07853) and will be $20 (cash only) at the door. There will also be over 100 crafters at the street fair and activities for children. We're looking forward to making this an annual event to be appreciated by both beer connoisseurs and microbrewers. For additional information and "official" order forms send email to gcw at lydian.att.com (Geoff Woods) or call 908-832-9767. Please include your name and full mail address with all ticket orders and info request. Sincerely, Long Valley Pub and Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 9:37:47 EDT From: jwc at med.unc.edu (John W. Carpenter) Subject: Broken Flasks/Starters >From: bart at nexgen.com (Bart Thielges) >Subject: A real crack up > >So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort) >up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK. Sure enough, >a huge crack has developed across the bottom of the flask. Fortunately, >the wort is only slowly leaking out and didn't make a complete mess of the >stovetop. I haven't done this myself with starter, but why not fill your flask with the amount of starter at what ever gravity you like, and put it in the microwave. I'm sure it would be boiling in less than 5 minutes. I've used flasks is microwaves and never had one crack on me. You may want to put a paper towel or something over the top of it in case it boil's over. John Carpenter Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 09:44:27 EDT From: Btalk at aol.com Subject: herbal hops remedy This is from a Herbal Health Care catalog: HOPS FLOWER. Valuable for those with insomnia. Will produce sleep when nothing else will. Has been used successfully to decrease the desire for alcohol. Will tone the liver. Available whole, powder or capsules. Interesting combination of effects, eh? regards, Bob Talkiewicz, Binghamton,NY <btalk at aol.com> Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 9:54:40 -0400 (EDT) From: COX003 at WCSUB.CTSTATEU.EDU Subject: To bitter a brew Hello all. I've just finsished transfering a 15 gallon batch to the secondarie and took a gravity reading of 016. This batch was a coffe,chocalate porter a sorta a weird combo I relize but it was printed in the Cats meow and sounded pretty good. The problem is it is already to bitter, mostly from the bakers chocalate, i believe. Does anyone think that adding malto-dextrin would make it sweeter? Feel free just to write me if you choose. Thanks to all for the great info... the masked manic beer brewing pickle eating man Aaron (cox003 at wcsub.ctstate.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 10:02:41 EDT From: "Lee A. Menegoni" <lmenegoni at nectech.com> Subject: Ofest/ Fix / Grain Since the publication of the Fix's book availibility of quality grain has improved, see George Fix article on the DC Belgium grains in the 1st or 2nd issue of Brewing Techniques it also includes newer recipes for these beers based on Belgian malts. Doctor Fix himself has noted on HBD that the malt available from Durst in Germany was of high quality and a much lower price point than another quality malt from Ireks. From my personal inspection of grains from the two German maltsters I have found that the Durst is more modified than the Ireks. One would be more correct in lableing the Ireks as a less modified malt than an under modified malt since it exhibits a fair amount of acrospire (sp?) development. I have brewed fest beers with 80% DC munich, 17% pilsner, 1% aromatic, 1% biscuit and 1% mixed crystal which was quite tasty and had very nice malty aroma, if I brewed this again I would increase the munich to 90-95%. I have also brewed similar recipes using 80-90% vienna malt, about 10% munich, 3-5% Pilsner and 1% biscuit and 1% mixed crystals with very good results. My preference is for the German Ireks malt for this style since I do a decoction mash. The Pilsner malt may not be necessary I include it because of its high diastic power to help ensure total conversion. I have had good luck with both 2308 and 2124 yeast I don't use Gypsum, I think it adds too much sulfate and produces a harsh bitterness that isn't part of the style. Don't over hop the beer, I use only a single addition of hops at 1 hour this results in a beer with no hop aroma and little hop flavor which is right on with the style guide lines. Hop aroma masks the malty aroma which is an important part of this style. I have been attempting to clone Spaten Ur Marzen for years with improving results, this style shows the craft of the German brewer and the melding of malt, hops, water and yeast. Every one of these components is important in producing a German style Ofest. A BJCP judge once made a very appropriate comment on one of my Fests it was a good beer but " The devil is in the details" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 10:37:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Greg Demkowicz <demkowg at iia.org> Subject: Re: Flasks >From: bjones at novax.llnl.gov (Bob Jones) >Subject: Breaking flasks >>From: bart at nexgen.com (Bart Thielges) >>Subject: A real crack up >> >>So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort) >>up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK. Sure enough, >>a huge crack has developed across the bottom of the flask. Fortunately, >>Snip >>Has anyone else had this problem before ? I'd like to make sure that >>I'm doing the right thing before I break another expensive piece of >> >buy a wire trivet or just make one out of a coat hanger. Personaly I have >went away from using the flask on a stove method of making starters, I have >moved on to pressure cooking several starters well in advance. That way they I could'nt agree more! I moved to a pressure cooker about 2 yesrs ago, and what a time saver. Normally, I will make up about 2 gals of hopped wort, swirl it to leave the break behind, and drain in to pint and qt canning jars (and a bunch of 1 oz t-tubes for inoculation). Then into the pressure cooker. >are cool and insured to be sterile. Actually I think the flask geometry is >pretty poor for starters. The tappering neck is not what you want. You want >to maximize the surface area, to maximize the O2 exposure. After breaking a >couple of flasks I have went to a 200ml screw top flask for the first stage >(I only put 30ml in it) and a 1 gallon wine jug for the later stages of >growth. The glass wine jugs are cheap, straight sided and sanitize well. I use an intermediate step of a 1 quart bottle. For 10 gallon batches, another 1 gal wine bottle is needed. Greg Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 10:42 From: KWH at roadnet.ups.com (KWH) Subject: Carboy handles >> Lotsa bandwidth has been dedicated to crashing carboys of late and I >> would like to hear from people who use carboy carriers. The carrier fits >> around the neck of the carboy and has a handle attached. Everything is >> coated the rubber, so it's non-slip. I've read every book, magazine, and stuff deleted... >I've used them, and my basic advice for other people that use them is: >Don't use them for holding up the full weight of the carboy. >I ended up with 5 gallons of good Cabernet Sauvignon on the floor of the >basement because the "non-slip" rubber did. IMHO they're only good as >another method of holding on to the neck, the weight of the carboy should >be supported by a hand underneath. I've used one of these on one carboy, but I certainly have my doubts about them -- specifically using the neck of the carboy for a fulcrum. Supporting the carboy underneath is probably the only safe way to use these, which makes me wonder if there is a significant advantage to using them over just grabbing the neck. The biggest help, in my opinion, is having something to hold when you are rinsing slippery sanitizing solutions, which is probably worth the price. The main problems that I see are in the ergonomics. If you are carrying a full carboy down stairs, you don't have a free hand to use the stair railing, and the bulk of the carboy is in front, blocking your view of the stairs (and what may be on them). I have been thinking about the carriers that are basically a large pouch with handles the carboy sits in. I suppose these could be modified to a sling going over one shoulder, so the weight would be supported by your legs, both hands would be free to steady the carboy and keep your balance, and the carboy would by supported more on the side than directly in front of you. Or you could just build a dumb waiter...... Working with heavy volumes in glassware concerns me about continuing this hobby into my "golden years". I'm in my early 30's now, so this isn't a big worry. However, I wonder how I will feel about carrying around a 7 gallon carboy when I'm 60. I will be forced to drastically redesign my process. But then again, why not do that now, and save the wear and tear? Comments??? Kirk Harralson kwh at roadnet.ups.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 10:37 From: KWH at roadnet.ups.com (KWH) Subject: Flask problems >>So, I'm merrily working on getting my yeast culture medium (1.040 wort) >>up to a boil in my Erlenmeyer flask when I hear a nice CRACK. Sure >>enough, a huge crack has developed across the bottom of the flask. stuff deleted.... >Yep, happened to me once. I would bet your heating the flask on an electric >burner. You need a wire trivet. This little ring keeps the flask from >coming into direct contact with the electric burner. There is some sort of >molecular change that takes place in the glass when it sets on an electric I am definitely moving towards making my starters in Erlenmeyer flasks, and I have been warned not to heat them on my electric stove with or without the trivets. I have heard that, even if you use the trivets, the life of the flask will be very short -- 2 or 3 batches. The appeal of using the flasks, at least to me, is going through the entire cycle of heating, cooling, preparing, etc. in one vessel with minimal exposure to any potential airborn nasties. Would the flasks be adversely affected if they were heated in a microwave? Someone once posted their method of heating starter solution in a flask with stopper and glass airlock intact, so that all three pieces were heat-sanitized at the same time. This setup seems ideal, but it would probably be too tall for my microwave. Does anyone have any good suggestions? Kirk Harralson kwh at roadnet.ups.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 94 10:52:03 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: Trub Removal Bleus (that's French!) Jeff Frane wrote about Trub Removal Bleus (that's French!): > The bottom of the loop has been drilled with very fine holes. I > disremember the gauge, but I used a Moto-tool drill with a very fine > bit; I was *very* careful drilling and didn't break the bit, but spares > are a good idea. Jeff may not have broken his bit, but I broke a bunch of them building one of these. Started with something around #72, broke all of these, and moved down to #68, which is much sturdier. I found that center punching the hole locations first made it much easier to start the holes. If your hardware store doesn't have the *reeeeeeellllyyyyy* small drill bit sizes, try a model store. They usually will. My (good) hardware store has #68, but nothing smaller. =S P.S. anybody want to buy some #80 bits? :-) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Sep 1994 09:06:27 -0700 From: 1DOUGLRY at STUDENT.UVSC.EDU Subject: Could you send me some information on upcoming festivals. If so I would deeply appreciate it. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1529, 09/17/94