HOMEBREW Digest #1564 Fri 28 October 1994

Digest #1563 Digest #1565

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Even though you use a goofy username....hops (uswlsrap)
  HBD various subjects (John Farver)
  WIVES AND BEER (aaron.banerjee)
  New brewpub in Sunnyvale, CA (Bart Thielges)
  survey's over (James Clark)
  Viva' Las Vegas! (Jeff Wade)
  Re: Large Keg Rings (Ed Westemeier)
  A-B and hops (Alan_Marshall)
  William Large Keg Rings (Bob_McIlvaine)
  grains/bread (RONALD DWELLE)
  Strawberry beer and cloudiness (Eugene Sonn)
  Pressure Cooker Odor (Terry Terfinko)
  Blond/Golden Ale Bitterness (Mark Gryska)
  Blonde/Golden Ale (Geoffrey Talvola)
  Re: Sam Houston vs. Sam Adams (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist))
  Re: Blonde/Golden Ale (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist))
  Using milk for labels (Willits)
  Re: Using corn (maize) (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  Sam Houston vs. Sam Adams (Gary Bell)
  Re: Mashing (Un)malted Wheat (Spencer.W.Thomas)
  re: HBD Hardcopy (brewing chemist Mitch)
  NJ Homebrew Shops ("Olesko, Ron")
  selling the HBD (Jeff Frane)
  wanted to buy/rent (Wash. DC area): roller mill (Dave Coombs)
  Info for New Brewers and Miscellany ("Palmer.John")
  re:glass air locks (Greg Demkowicz)
  Sankey Keg on side (kr_roberson)
  Kriek, sent WP file, will try again, 2 ways (RLANCASTER)
  rousing yeast ("Dulisse, Brian")
  Another Pub Request/Heather (Schinelli, Capt Bruce)
  data on beer drinkers (Segolene Badelon)
  Hard Copy Sounds Fishy (David Draper)
  Advertising on the HBD (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Re: Are AHA guidelines a joke?/Starting a Pilsner/DMS?/Small kettle/rousing (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  DMS (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 26 Oct 94 18:58:49 EDT From: uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Subject: Even though you use a goofy username....hops - -------------------- Mail Item Text Follows ------------------ To: I1010141--IBMMAIL From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst Subject: Even though you use a goofy username....hops "Officer Ron" wants to know about hops for his pils: Don't worry--AAUs and HBUs are the same thing. Now, IBUs to AAUs _does_ require a conversion. IBUs are a measure of bitterness; AAU (or HBU) is simply weight * alpha. Therefore, to get 15 HBUs (or AAUs) of Saaz, you'll need 3 ounces if the alpha is 5% and 5 ounces if your Saaz are 3%. (That's not such an unusual range. I happen to have both pellets and plugs in my freezer, and the Saaz plugs were measured at packaging to be 3.1%; the pellets happen to be over 5%.) You can see why a recipe that simply specifies using x ounces of y variety without giving the alpha acid % isn't very useful. That's going to decline with age and exposure to air and poor storage, but knowing where they started is better than complete ignorance, and you can guess whether you need to add more based on your knowledge of how they've been stored. IBUs are different. Say your pils calls for 45 IBUs (the upper range on the AHA style chart) and you want to know how many ounces of hops at a particular AA% to use. Use the formula AAU = (IBU*V) / (U*3/4). (I know, the 3/4 isn't exact, but the error is a lot less than the error in utilisation) You could rearrange the formula if you wanted to take the "known" 15 AAUs from your recipe and wanted to know how many IBUs you could expect to get, but if you're formulating your own recipe, you're going to start out aiming for a target bitterness. AAU is weight * alpha%; IBU is the bitterness you're aiming for; V is volume in gallons; and U is utilisation (* 100; express as a percent rather than a decimal). U is going to be the least precise number. (You may recall the thread about whose numbers are right under what assumptions.) The longer the boil (up to a certain point) and the lower the gravity of your wort, the higher the utilisation. Use 25% for a starting figure (but that's probably optimistic) for the hops you boil for an hour. Remember also that if you don't boil the full volume (and top off at the end), the gravity will be higher and the utilisation lower. Charlie P.'s new book has a table to estimate gravity based on pounds of extract per gallon of water. I think he also has (?) a utilisation table based on boiling time and gravity. Utilisation for a 60 minute boil might be, say 20-25%. You might get only 10-15% for the hops that are in for 30 minutes. The ones you use for finishing in the last 5 minutes or so will make a negligible contribution to bitterness. Now for your example.... IBU=45, V=5 gallons, U=25% AAU = 45*5*4 / 25*3 = 12 That's less than the 15 in your recipe, but 25% is probably optimistic, particularly if you're doing an extract brew and have to account for the concentrated wort. Use 20% instead of 25%, and you get those 15 AAUs suggested in your recipe. If the recipe suggests adding all your hops at once, you'll probably get a bitterness at the top of the AHA range (35-45). If, however, your hop schedule calls for additions throughout the boil, you'll need more than those 15 AAUs (assuming U=20%) to account for the lower utilisation at the later additions. OTOH, if U is "really" 25%, 15 AAUs might be enough more than the 12 to compensate, but you'd have to calculate that for yourself based on the intended boiling times for later additions. Redo the formula to solve for IBU if you want to find out how much each addition of hops contributes to bitterness. Remember that in a homebrewing situation, none of this is going to be very precise, but it should get you in the right ballpark (or hockey rink). Hope this helps, Bob Paolino Disoriented in Badgerspace Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 1994 17:43:20 -0700 (PDT) From: John Farver <bruticus at andes.pnw.net> Subject: HBD various subjects After browsing several issues, I decided to reply to some of the questions. 1. I am from Yakima, Wa. and being a homebrewer here I can speak from personal experience and having developed a friendship with the Hop King (as we like to call him) at Hop Union USA, one of the more reputable hop brokers. Some brewers (big and small) come up and handpick the hops they want for the year and others take from the lot. All hops are treated the same no matter who owns them. If you receive bad hops, it is usually the result of your local supplier not paying attention to where they came from or poor storage practice after receiving them. There are less reputable brokers in the area and while I wont mention any names here, the gold foil packs get most of the bad press where ever I go. Hop Union USA takes great pride in their association with the microbrew industry and homebrewers alike. Next time your in your favorite brewpub/micro ask the brewer if he uses HU hops and of his opinion, I think they will all back me up. 2. Different AA ratings on the same hop variety- could be a different years crop, field or lot, region, storage in some cases and when pelletized whole hops lose approx 1%. Just some possibilities. 3. To Barry- don't give up on Steinbart based on the foil pack try a different brokers product, I beleive they use 2 others. 4. Mike- some english hops have seeds but I think they are all sterile. 5. Getting my hops fresh from the broker as I need them leaves me of the opinion that there is not that much difference in the aroma or flavor profile between whole and pellet. I use mainly pellet because of ease of cleanup in my system. I dryhopped both ways and smelled no big difference. I am not affiliated with Hop Union of Steinbarts in any other way than friend and customer. John email welcome, bruticus at pnw.net Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 94 21:21:06 From: aaron.banerjee at his.com Subject: WIVES AND BEER I appriciate the message with regards to cleaning the stove after making beer. I have found that the sugar on the stove from the beer making supplies residue attracts cockroaches which makes for unpleasant drinking environment. Mrs. Banerjee Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 94 17:15:32 PDT From: bart at nexgen.com (Bart Thielges) Subject: New brewpub in Sunnyvale, CA For you SF Bay area readers : There's a new brewpub scheduled to open this fall in Sunnyvale near the Lawerence Expressway exit off of highway 101. Its on Lakeside Dr. and I believe that it will be called The Faultline Brewing Company. I took a look today and I think that in the stage of construction that they are at, they will be hard pressed to have a batch ready to serve before winter. [sorry for the extra traffic to you non-SF bay area folks] Bart Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 1994 22:43:18 -0700 (PDT) From: James Clark <jeclark at ucdavis.edu> Subject: survey's over thanks to everybody who helped out with the survey! i collected the last surveys today and am working on the results. sorry to those who didn't get a survey - my e-mail access has been pretty sketchy. for those who asked for the results they should be ready in about a week and i will send them out. thanks again. - --james jeclark at ucdavis.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 26 Oct 1994 20:10:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Wade <jeffpolo at eskimo.com> Subject: Viva' Las Vegas! A little all to late FYI for the Beer Hunters out there like myself! I recently made a flight from the Seattle area (home of WAY to many Great micro-brews to mention) to Las Vegas, NV. This may be old news already to some, but to those that love to hunt for good beer and a good time.... I present to you HOLY COW casino,cafe,and most importantly BREWERY! The brewery, opening late 1993, enjoys a site on the LV strip and is the first brewery to become established in Vegas! This brewery can be my version of heaven if it likes.... 24 hour beer, slots, great food, and $2.75 pints! Holy Cow brewery offers three featured beers and one brewmasters speciality being Raspberry Weizen on my visit. Pale ale: Amber color, malty fullness, fruity overtones.(Gold: english pale category GABF) Wheat Beer: Traditional in style, refreshing! Red Ale: Reddish copper hue, smooth maltiness(my favorite!) Rasp W: Delightfully Malty, with an array of Raspberry flavors. Reinheitsgebot in strict adherence. Definately worth the visit when you are in Las Vegas. This brewery is here to stay... sorry they don't bottle so you'all just better fill those pockets with cash, bring that lucky rabbits foot, and head on down to the Holy Cow Brewery! (not affiliated... but I wish I were!) Jeffpolo at Eskimo.com There is no BEER in Heaven, that is why we DRINK it here! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 08:35:20 +0500 From: ed.westemeier at sdrc.com (Ed Westemeier) Subject: Re: Large Keg Rings Phil Brushaber <pbrush at netcom.com> writes: > No matter how often I change out that large ring on my kegs I still get > leaks. The product that Williams carries (you know the one for about > $5.50) claims to be larger in diameter and softer to assure a much better > seal. At five times the standard price, they are a rip off if they don't > help. On the other hand if they work, they're a bargain. > > Any advice before I spring for these puppies? -- Phil When I went looking for replacement O-rings for some old 5-gallon kegs a couple of years ago, I talked to the folks at Brewer's Resource (Brew-Tek) in California. Jeff told me that there was a slight size difference between pin-lock and ball-lock kegs (too slight to notice, but significant). They carry both, at the same price, and always ask you to specify which type you want. I don't have their 800 number handy, but I've been a very satisfied customer for years (no other connection). One other point: I've found that on my older kegs, the leak is more often from the safety valve than the o-rings (particularly the ones with the integral safety valve built right into the hatch cover). Some of them have proven hopeless to try to fix, so those kegs have been relegated to use as fermenters instead of beer containers. Ed Westemeier, Cincinnati, Ohio ed.westemeier at sdrc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 09:30:50 -0500 (EST) From: Alan_Marshall <AK200032 at Sol.YorkU.CA> Subject: A-B and hops In HBD #1563, Sean Lamb writes about A-B's hops: sl> Our homebrew club had a tour of the Houston A-B beer factory in late sl> August of this year. I saw the following types of hops in the hop sl> room (per the labels on the walls behind the bales): <Impressive list snipped> If you ever get a chance to See Michael Jackson on tour, do so. He is really quite funny in a low keyed way. At one point, when he starts talking about hops, he says, "You know all brewmasters are hopheads. I remember touring the Anhauser-Busch plant in St. Louis. The brewmaster was showing me around. The tour was quite ruotine until we got to the hoproom. The brewmaster was becoming quite excite -- you could tell he loved the hops. And there they were: Yakimas and Cascades from Washington State; Fuggles and East Kent Goldings from England; Saaz from Czechoslovakia. It must all be for show though... they don't use any in their beers!" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 09:50:08 EST From: Bob_McIlvaine at keyfile.com Subject: William Large Keg Rings Phil talks about large keg gaskets in his post. I assume he's talking about the bung gasket on Cornelius kegs. I've had this leakage problem in the past, but have not had the problem since I started heating the gasket just before I put it on the bung and then immediately put about 20 or 30 lbs pressure on the keg. This seats the soft (because it's warm) gasket into both the keg and the bung giving a good seal. I heat it by letting it sit in boiled water while I prepare the keg and rack. Mac Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 10:06:03 EST From: dweller at GVSU.EDU (RONALD DWELLE) Subject: grains/bread I throw the spent grains in the compost pile--works beautifully. I've tried to make bread twice, and both times the results were awful. The husks in the grain make the bread much too coarse--it's like eating a slice of bread that you dropped in the sand. Also--unlike all other roughage known to mankind--beergrain bread will bind you up something awful (YMMV). Ron Dwelle (dweller at gvsu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 10:13:14 -0400 (EDT) From: Eugene Sonn <eugene at sccs.swarthmore.edu> Subject: Strawberry beer and cloudiness Howdy, Thanks to everyone who gave me advice in brewing my Strawberry Wheat beer. The brew is great! (I simply brewed an extract wheat beer and added 4 pounds of frozen strawberries after the boil but before cooling) However, the beer is a bit on the cloudy side. It's not the usual cloudiness you see in a bottle before all the yeast has settled out. A friend suggested that since juices with strawberries are cloudy (unlike say apple juice) that this could be a function of the fruit. Does anyone have any experience with strawberry beers? Should I be more patient and wait for it to clear or just drink up and enjoy? Both? Eugene student, brewer and member of the Jim Koch (TM) hate mail club Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 10:19:10 EDT From: terfintt at ttown.apci.com (Terry Terfinko) Subject: Pressure Cooker Odor Well after searching garage sales and flea markets all summer I finally found that bargain pressure cooker for sterilizing my yeast culturing equipment. It is an old Sears probably vintage 1940-1950. Now here is my problem. There is a horrible odor impregnated into this thing that I can't figure out how to get rid of. When I first opened the cooker I found a few accessories inside one of which had a white rubber handle which was deteriorated and carried this odor. The cooker is a cast aluminum design and I believe the aluminum has absorbed some of the deteriorated rubber. Here are some of the things I have done to remove the odor all of which have failed. 1.) Left it out in the sun 2.) Heated via boiling, creating vented steam (the kitchen really stank here) 3.) Filled with a mixture of No Rinse sanitizer and let sit for 2 weeks. This left some deposits inside which appeared to be particles of the rubber compound. Cleaned these and tried a boil, odor remains. Any suggestions from the HBD would be appreciated. Terry Terfinko - terfintt at ttown.apci.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 10:23:13 EDT From: Mark Gryska <mark at vicorp.com> Subject: Blond/Golden Ale Bitterness Whoops, when I returned home the other night I looked up the description of Blond/Golden Ale in The Essentials of Beer Style by Fred Ekhardt and noted that the bitterness can go as high as 70 ibu. My apologies to the hop heads among us. Fred Ekhardt describes this beer style as a Pale Ale made from a lighter base malt such as Klages. - mg Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 10:29:15 -0400 From: Geoffrey Talvola <gtalvola at bbn.com> Subject: Blonde/Golden Ale Mark Gryska <mark at vicorp.com> writes: >In HOMEBREW Digest #1562 Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu writes: >> Does anyone know what a "Blonde Ale" is supposed to be? And why can't >> anyone brew it??? > >You can find a description of Blonde/Golden Ale in Ekhardt's Beer Style >Guide. My impression of this style is that it is very much like an >Extra Special Bitter but lighter in color, higher carbonation and >hopped with American rather than British or Continental Hops. (My What would be some commercial examples, then? Here in New England, Catamount Gold seems to fit the description (and is one of my favorites, I might add), as does Harpoon Ale (also excellent on draft, but mediocre in bottles). Any others? - Geoff Talvola gtalvola at bbn.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 08:26:29 -0600 (MDT) From: walter at lamar.ColoState.EDU (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist)) Subject: Re: Sam Houston vs. Sam Adams > One point in Jim Kochs favor. Every time I went by the BBC booth at the > GABF he was there pouring beers and chatting with people. Didn't see any > other "names" doing that. Did anybody else? Guess it depends what you mean by "names", because I saw quite a few brewers pouring at their booths. > One last point, the SA Triple Bock served at the GABF had been aged in > the barrel for year. It tasted much better than the stuff in the bottles. That is really not saying much. I personally thought the beer to be way overdone. It was too sweet and syrupy, and full of fusels and other fermentation by-products. A technical feat yes, but the drinkability is long lost by the end of a 1 oz sample. Brian J Walter Chemistry Graduate Student walter at lamar.colostate.edu RUSH Rocks Best Homebrewer/Beer Geek Go Pack! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 08:40:50 -0600 (MDT) From: walter at lamar.ColoState.EDU (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist)) Subject: Re: Blonde/Golden Ale In HOMEBREW Digest #1562 Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu writes: > Does anyone know what a "Blonde Ale" is supposed to be? And why can't > anyone brew it??? Straight from the GABF guidelines: Blonde Ale Golden Ale/Canadian Style Ale Golden ales are a pale blond variation of the classic pale ale. However, Golden ale more closely approximates a lager in its crisp, dry palate, noticeable floral aroma and light body. Kolsch Kolsch is warm fermented and aged at cold temperatures (Alt-style beer), very pale in color, withe a slightly dry, winey and subtly sweet palate. This beer has low hop flavor and aroma with medium bitterness. Wheat can be used in brewing this beer which is fermented using ale or lager yeasts. Can't help you on why the judges trashed them all. I do think that there were very few kolsch beers entered. - --bjw Brian J Walter Chemistry Graduate Student walter at lamar.colostate.edu RUSH Rocks Best Homebrewer/Beer Geek Go Pack! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 07:48:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Willits <willits at camelot.Stanford.EDU> Subject: Using milk for labels In HBD #1563 John Adams writes: >I use regular bonded paper in either color laser/deskjet printer. I >recommend using a glue stick to adhere the label to the bottle. It's >easy to >apply and comes of very easy with a quick soak in the sink of warm water. > >You can also use milk (yes milk). Use a paint brush and *lighty* paint >the label with the milk. Once it drys it works great and is also easily >removed. > >There are two disadvantages with milk. You might get the label too wet when >you apply the milk and the label will wrinkle somewhat (that's why you must >*lightly* apply the milk). > >It also does have the immediate bond the glue stick has. I use a >rubberband to >hold the label in place until the milk drys. I use nonfat milk regularly and have not had any problems. I float labels in a bowl of milk for a second, run the label across the lip of the bowl to remove excess milk, and put the label on the bottle. I usually smooth it out with a paper towel. By the time I have smoothed the label, it has adhered. Mike Willits Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 11:03:09 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: Using corn (maize) Mark A. Melton wrote about Using corn (maize): > 3. Masa or masa harina, nixtamal, corn tortillas: no no no!!! > Processed in caustic solution and have distinctive odor > you probably don't want. I wonder how this would work in a chili beer. Hmm. Enchilada lager, anyone? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 08:09:05 -0700 From: gbell at ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell) Subject: Sam Houston vs. Sam Adams Seems clear to me that Waterloo Brewing should copywright Jim Koch's name for one of their brews -- perhaps for a Rauchbier. Gary "Quis dolor cui dolium?" Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 11:16:38 EDT From: Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu Subject: Re: Mashing (Un)malted Wheat Malted wheat is just that -- malted. It has enzymes and can convert its own starch to sugar. It's easier to grind than unmalted wheat (which acts like little rubber bullets in the mill). Since the structural proteins have been degraded in the malting process, it's also less prone to a stuck mash. It does not need to be, nor should it be, pre-cooked to gelatinize the starch. If you did, you would destroy the enzymes. A protein rest is helpful, but probably not strictly required. (Better put my flame-proof suit on.) Unmalted wheat, on the other hand, is very hard, has undegraded gluten (the stuff that makes bread dough so sticky & tough), totally unconverted starch, and no enzymes. It requires a long protein rest to avoid a stuck mash (30-45 minutes at 120F seems to work well). And, you need a high-enzyme malt (pilsener or 6-row) to convert the starch. I did a batch once with 50% unmalted wheat (flour, actually) and 50% pale ale malt. It came out very sweet, which I attribute to having insufficient enzyme levels in the pale ale malt. You'll also get somewhat different flavor profiles from the unmalted vs the malted wheat. It's hard to describe, but basically the unmalted (i.e., raw) wheat gives a "breadier" flavor. Malted wheat is used in German wheat styles. As far as I know, the only styles that use unmalted wheat are Belgian "white" beers and Lambics. =Spencer in Ann Arbor, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 10:25:31 -0500 (CDT) From: gellym at aviion.persoft.com (brewing chemist Mitch) Subject: re: HBD Hardcopy In HBD 1563, Clay Glenn reaches out to the net-challenged: > Cyber Age Publishing is now market testing the Hardcopy Edition > of The Homebrew Digest. A full month of the Digests are compiled > with a full Table of Contents and cross-referenced with a > detailed Index. A few "extras" like FAQ files and other special > "bonus" features are thrown in for good measure and printed in a > spiral bound "lay flat" format of over 150 pages. What a nice guy ! Say Clay, are you providing this as a *free* service to those without net access ? If not, I want royalties on every HBD you publish that has any submissions from me in it ;-> (I'll have to start posting more often now) And why are you telling us this? If I read your message on the HBD, then I have no use for a printed version. I can print them out for myself and my friends just fine, thank you. I'll be sure and tell all the brewers I know where they can _buy_ the HBD now. Yeah, right. Thanks but no thanks, Mitch - -- | - Mitch Gelly - | Zack Norman | |software QA specialist, unix systems administrator, zymurgist,| is | | AHA/HWBTA beer judge, & president of the Madison Homebrewers | Sammy in | | - gellym at aviion.persoft.com - gelly at persoft.com - | Chief Zabu | Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 11:24:00 PDT From: "Olesko, Ron" <Olesko at cnbc.nbc.com> Subject: NJ Homebrew Shops I want to respond to Dennis Forester's recent review of NJ homebrew shops. Dennis had a negative reaction to the Home Brewery in Bogota - arrogance from the staff seems to be the main issue. Speaking from personal experience, I have found the opposite to be true. The employees have been helpful, courteous, and friendly. They were very helpful in getting me started on the right foot. (Keeping my fingers crossed - no bad batches yet!) I started brewing about 2 years ago and the Home Brewery has been my primary source. (I have also utilized mail order from several out of state shops just for comparison.) I do know that the Home Brewery is always busy, Saturdays especially. I can imagine that it is difficult for them to give the attention to everyone who needs it at such a time. The only "complaint" I have about them is that they are frequently out of stock on items that I need. It took awhile to get a carboy and a wort chiller from them. Again, I attribute that to the volume of business they do. I am not affiliated with the store, just a satisfied customer. By the way, does anyone know of a homebrew store in Spring Valley, NY? Ron Olesko Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 09:05:11 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeff Frane <gummitch at teleport.com> Subject: selling the HBD > From: clayglen at netcom.com (Clay Glenn) > Subject: HBD Hardcopy Edition > > For more details about the Homebrew Digest Hardcopy Edition, > please reply directly via e-mail, or write to the publisher: > Cyber Age Publishing > 1835 Newport Boulevard, G182 #263-HBD > Costa Mesa, California 92627 > You're going to sell this? Where're my royalties? - --Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 12:12:23 -0400 From: Dave Coombs <coombs at cme.nist.gov> Subject: wanted to buy/rent (Wash. DC area): roller mill In Washington DC area (sorry, I already tried r.c.b in dc): Does anyone know someone who wants to get rid of an old roller mill? I didn't think so... Does anyone have a mill I might rent or borrow? Thanks. dave ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Dave Coombs david.coombs at nist.gov National Institute of Standards & Technology Tel: (301) 975-2865 Gaithersburg MD 20899 USA http://isd.cme.nist.gov Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Oct 1994 09:02:14 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Info for New Brewers and Miscellany Hi Group, Kelly asked yesterday about how much DME to use for priming. The common amount for 5 gallons is 1 & 1/4 cup of dry malt extract, boiled in a couple cups of water and cooled, before adding to your bottling bucket. Rack your beer into your bottling bucket, putting the siphon outlet beneath the surface of your priming solution; this prevents splashing and unwanted aeration at this point. Using DME for priming generates a little bit of protein trub. Sometimes this results in a protein ring around the top of the bottle. Don't let this worry you that you have an infection. Smell it first before tossing your batch. For any new brewers to this forum, Welcome. I would like to mention that there is a plethora of brewing information on the net these days, including my file, How to Brew Your First Beer, containing info on equipment, terms, brewing processes and troubleshooting. It is available via FTP from Homebrew/Docs at sierra.stanford.edu or via WWW on Spencer's Beer Page at http://guraldi.hgp.med.umich.edu/Beer/ Also available at these sites are How-To files on Equipment, Mashing, and Recipes. Beer Labels: Hey folks, I use Scotch Tape. Plain paper labels out of the laserprinter and photocopier, two pieces of tape and I am done. No crying over spilled milk. When the bottle is empty, it is very easy to peel the tape off the bottle. Beer Bread: Thanks Jeff, I appreciated your professional input. If I can ramble about brewing related metallurgy, you can certainly talk about brewing related baking. I have been meaning to try this for some time now. Maybe next week I will finally do it. Cyber Age Publishing: I am sure there will be many responses to this, but I think this is going to be important and wanted to air my opinion too. The HBD IS a public forum, brewers share public information. However, I think that Clay is leaving himself wide open for litigation for publishing other's quotes without permission. It is one thing to use information gathered from the HBD, evaluate it and utilize the information to write and publish an original work; it is another to publish someone else's work for them without compensation. If Clay wants to set up a corporation that would track and compensate each HBD submitter.... Further, re. FAQ files and the like, If my How to Brew file was to be published and sold without my consent, I am sure Jim Koch could give me lots of advice on what to do about it... John Palmer MDA-SSD M&P palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 12:47:20 -0400 (EDT) From: Greg Demkowicz <demkowg at iia.org> Subject: re:glass air locks Dan Wood asks for a source on glass air locks. I picked up mine at "The Brewmeister, 115 No. Union Ave, Cranford, N.J., 07016, ($6.00) 908-709-9295 or outside of N.J. 800-322-3020. Yes, he does do mail order. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 10:04 -0700 (PDT) From: kr_roberson at gate.pnl.gov Subject: Sankey Keg on side I have a question about Sankey kegs. What I would like to do is to buy one of the straight-sided 1/2 barrel kegs, but I want to be able to dispense it while it is laying on its side. I haven't ever seen inside of one, so I don't know if this is possible or not. Anyone have experience doing this? I anticipate that I might have to bend the dip tube and/or extend the inlet tube, but really have no clue as to how the Sankey taps are constructed. Regards from the Northwest, Kyle Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 14:19:44 -0400 From: RLANCASTER at ntia.doc.gov Subject: Kriek, sent WP file, will try again, 2 ways Last July, there were several comments about Brewferm Kriek, which I had just bought. On the advice of sam at toolsmiths.on.ca, I did not boil the extract, just heated it up real well, which prevented the cherry from being driven out. I am enjoying the results now, details below, with a tip of the mug to Sam. Brewferm Kriek, from Belgium 2 cans Brewferm Kriek extract, has "hopped malt, cherry flavor, glycerine, citric acid, yeast" 2 pounds corn sugar their yeast August 1, 1994, boiled 2 gallons water, added 2 cans extract, 2 pounds (about 1000 g) corn sugar, brought to a boil while stirring, did not boil. Added to water in bucket up to 6 gallons, cooled bucket in icy sink until 68 degrees F., pitched yeast, sealed up. Kept in basement where temperature was at about 77 degrees F., which corresponded to their instructions for a "warm" place. Next day blowing out lots of blood colored krausen, bubbled 5 days, put on airlock then, bubbled 3 more days. On August 9, siphoned to carboy, air lock, settled out until August 14 when I added 1 cup sugar, bottled. Trouble with bottler, broke several bottles while capping, only got 48 bottles. Put into boxes in the same 77 degree F. "warm" basement area for 7 days, then set on the cold cellar floor for 8 weeks, temperature about 50 degrees F, cause they asked for a "cooler" place. On October 21, tried. Fine red color, good carbonation, slightly pink head lasts a long time. Taste is like a light ale with just a touch of sourness at the back of your mouth, after taste is lightly cherry, again slightly sour, not sweet. Then, no lingering taste at all. Everybody likes this one, will do again next summer cause it seems to be a good hot weather refresher. Remember, send results to sam at toolsmiths.on.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 94 16:40:00 EST From: "Dulisse, Brian" <BBD4 at CIPCOD1.EM.CDC.GOV> Subject: rousing yeast many thanks to all who responded. the question was "how to rouse flocculated yeast." about half of the respondents argued for actually shaking the carboy; the other half suggested swirling the wort in the carboy (i.e., leaving the base on the floor and moving the top of the carboy in a circle). all pointed out what in retrospect is kind of obvious (i am embarrased to say): the blanket of co2 should keep the fermenting wort from oxidizing. again, thanks. bd Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 13:47 CDT From: MXPYP7.HQAMC at MHS.SAFB.AF.MIL (Schinelli, Capt Bruce) Subject: Another Pub Request/Heather Well it looks like the Blue Dragon Femtobrewery is moving to the Detroit area, specifically around Southfield, Mich. Can anyone tell me a) if there is a local homebrew club in the area, or b) if Detroit has any microbreweries or brewpubs? Please send private email and I'll compile and send mail for the whole HBD. Awhile back, I asked if anyone knew how to get their hands on some Scottish heather tips, to make some Leone Fraoch. I'm asking again, despite the underwelming response. How about some of our English friends? v/r Bruce Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 14:29:05 -0700 (PDT) From: Segolene Badelon <psu02502 at odin.cc.pdx.edu> Subject: data on beer drinkers HELP!!!!! I need to get some data on France. Do you have any idea where I can find the average consumption per inhabitant (espacially in Alsace where beer is made) ? Thank you for your suggestion, and for the other ones I read everyday to make my own beer. What a pleasure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 1994 08:05:54 +1000 (EST) From: David Draper <David.Draper at mq.edu.au> Subject: Hard Copy Sounds Fishy Dear Friends, I don't like the sound of the idea of someone selling printed-out versions of the HBD. Leaving aside the practical considerations that a book-form HBD entails (namely, the whole purpose is for ongoing discussions and trouble-shooting--freezing a month's worth into hard copy is rather like watching the middle reel of a film), I just don't think it's right to use other people's ideas and efforts without express permission. I'm sure most of us are happy for anyone to read our stuff, but if, for example, someone had The Idea of the Century and it got into the hard copy and resulted in blockbuster sales, they might justifiably feel ripped off. This is just my knee-jerk reaction, maybe I'm way off base. Cheers, Dave in Sydney - -- "Life's a bitch, but at least there's homebrew" ---Norm Pyle ****************************************************************************** David S. Draper, School of Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, NSW 2109 Sydney, Australia. email: david.draper at mq.edu.au fax: +61-2-850-8428 ....I'm not from here, I just live here.... Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Oct 94 18:37:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Advertising on the HBD David posts an advertisement on some homebrew videos. A week or so ago, there was another post of a commercial nature. I'd like to ask that everyone refrain from posting advertisements in the HBD. It is quite simply NOT the place for them. No matter how useful the information might be, anyone with a couple of bucks a month or a friend at a university can post commercials to the HBD and it's very efficient, cheap advertising. If we tolerate ads, no doubt in a few months, every second article will be an ad. If it starts getting that way, I, for one, will be taking my brewing questions and answers elsewhere. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Oct 94 22:12:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: Re: Are AHA guidelines a joke?/Starting a Pilsner/DMS?/Small kettle/rousing Spencer and others have posted articles questioning why some beers that were clearly out-of-style, based upon their recipes, won in the National Competition. Let me propose a *POSSIBLE* explaination. Before I say it, let me do a little pre-emptive back-pedaling. I'm NOT saying that this is always the case, that any of the suspect winners in this years Nationals were indeed guilty of this, nor am I saying that this is always intentional. That said, let me propose that perhaps the recipe was not correct. In what ways might the recipe not be correct? How about: 1. 6 gallons were made, but the brewer thought there were only 5 and they did not measure the OG, but instead, they estimated it after the fact. 2. the brewer could not read their own brewing log, 3. the brewer did not keep a brewing log and put together the recipe from memory, 4. the brewer's handwriting was sloppy on the recipe form and the figures were misread, 5. the brewer accidentally mixed-up recipes and copied the wrong recipe onto the entry form, or 6. the brewer intentionally doctored the recipe. I judged a 1st place beer at the 1993 AHA Nationals 2nd round that I am willing to bet had no more than 20 IBUs. When I reviewed the recipe prior to publication in Zymurgy, I calculated over 50 IBUs! I'm willing to bet my BJCP National rank that this was an error in the recipe. I pointed this out to the Managing Editor and suggested that we add an editorial comment that this recipe was somehow incorrect, but I'm not sure what actually was published. I will look again at the preliminary text that James writes and if there is not, perhaps there should be a disclaimer about the recipes... that the recipes are published as-is, exactly as provided by their authors, and that there are sometimes errors in them. I've heard tales of brewers who never give their proper recipes, as I'm sure you know brewers (and chefs) who do the same. I try my best to discourage this kind of practice and would like Competition organizers to occasionally challange way-out recipes to try to keep the brewers honest, but I know this is an unlikely hope. ********** Ron writes: >I have decided to try Don McDaniel's PU recipe from Cat's Meow, and I have a >few questions. I am a new brewer, and this will be my first try at liquid >yeast. (Wyeast #2007), any suggestions?? Also, I neewd 15 AAU's Saaz hops, >how do I convert HBU's to AAu's? Or probably more importantly,, AAU's to >Ozs?? Please help, Wyeast #2007 (Pilsen Lager) is remarkably similar to that used by Anheuser- Busch, so unless you like Bud and a lot of acetaldehyde, I would use either the Wyeast Bohemian Lager or the Wyeast Czech Lager yeasts. As for AAUs and HBUs, they are the same. To convert AAUs to ounces, divide the AAUs by the %AA of your hops. For example, if you want 15 AAUs and you have 3% AA Saaz, you want 5 ounces of those Saaz. However, I'm quite sure you don't want 15 AAUs or HBUs in a Pilsner. Perhaps you want 15 IBUs in an American Pilsner, but 5 ounces of 3% Saaz for 60min is about 66 IBUs. If you are trying to make something like Pilsner Urquel, then you want about 40 IBUs, which for a boil gravity of less than 1.050 is about 3ounces of 3% Saaz for 60 minutes. If you are indeed trying to make Budweiser, then you want about 15 IBUs and therefore you want to use about 1.125 ounces of 3% Saaz. Pick up the Hops and Beer Special Issue of Zymurgy -- that's where I got all the formulas to calculate the IBUs I've quoted here. These formulas work for me -- I have laboratory proof that they do. ********* Dan writes: >The corn smell/taste is distinct, >but smells sweet and not unpleasant, it just doesn't belong in my >beer! >Is this DMS? Any ideas on where it came from? How to prevent it? Any >hope for this beer? Again, I seriously doubt infection, my sanitation >practices are pretty rigorous. Yes, my suspicion is that what you've got is DMS there. A sort of pleasant cooked corn aroma that is acceptable in small amounts in a lager, but tastes out-of-place in an ale. Since you say your sanitation is quite good, let's assume that this is not the source, although there is a bacteria (of which I can never remember the spelling... Obesumbacterium? drat!) which does produce DMS. Two other sources are slow chilling of your wort and excessive amounts in your malt. Since you are already using a wort chiller, unless it's taking you longer than 30 or 45 minutes to chill, I would suspect the malt. Try a different brand of extract. ******* Johathan writes: >The time has arrived to try to brew some holiday ale. The >problem that I have is that the recipe demands that I boil 3 >gallons. Problem - I only have a pan that will take about 1.5 >gallons. Should I brew half the quantity, just use less water >and make it up later or wait 'till I have a larger pan ? You can use less water and just make it up later, but be aware of the fact that you will get less bitterness out of your hops thanks to the higher gravity of the boil. How much less is dependent on the actual gravity. Rager's formulas seem to work for my setup well and his compensation formula is: (BG - 1.050) GA = ------------ 0.2 where GA is the adjustment due to the gravity and BG is the boil gravity. Note that there should be no adjustment for BGs less than 1.050. So, if a full boil recipe (with an OG less than 1.050) calls for 3 ounces of Fuggles and your GA turns out to be 0.25, then add 1, multiply the 3 ounces by 1.25 and use 3.75 ounces of hops. If the full boil recipe gravity was already higher than 1.050, then it's a bit more complicated -- email me. ******* Brian writes: >thoroughly fermented out. some users recommended rousing the yeast to get >them to finish their work. how is this actually done? i imagine it would >be a bad thing to start shaking a carboy filled with partially fermented >wort, because of the oxidation which would result As long as you have an airlock or blowoff tube on the fermentor and CO2 has purged-out all the O2, you won't get oxidation from shaking your carboy. All you really need to do is put it on a piece of carpeting and swirl it around till some of the yeast gets kicked back up into suspension. I would check the SG and see if it has not fermented out on its own before rousing, though. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: 27 Oct 94 23:04:00 GMT From: korz at iepubj.att.com (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583) Subject: DMS I wrote about DMS: >Two other sources are slow chilling of your wort and excessive amounts >in your malt. Actually, its excessive amounts of the PRECURSOR of DMS in you malt. This precursor compound is known as SMM. Al. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1564, 10/28/94