HOMEBREW Digest #1634 Wed 18 January 1995

Digest #1633 Digest #1635

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  COLD ALE FERMENTS (Charles Wettergreen)
  Priming PETs, eisbocks are fun (Bob Paolino               Research Analyst)
  Brewing Techniques (TPuskar)
  Re: Mexicali Rogue ("GLYN CROSSNO")
  Extract brewpubs (Keith Frank)
  RE: Mini-kegs (david lawrence shea)
  Soda-pop recipies (Doug Lukasik)
  New Brewery...First tasting (Rick Starke)
  5 litre mini-kegs (Douglas R. Jones)
  Fermentap problem/Refrigerator construction ("Crake_Kurtis_LT")
  5 liter mini-kegs (George Danz (919) 405-3632)
  ppm vs. mg/l ("geo")
  Recipe: Black Gold Stout ("Joseph E. Santos")
  acid rest/fermentation temp/water (Steve Robinson)
  question about CO2 and equilibrium ("Brent A. Spoth")
  Re: Stiegel Beer (Austria) (johne)
  Licorice-y?/Dry Stout/Compost ("David Sapsis")
  Oops, Re: New Brewery... (Rick Starke)
  Chile Pequin/Chipotle/Thanks (Mark Thompson)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 16 Jan 95 07:56 CST From: chuckmw at mcs.com (Charles Wettergreen) Subject: COLD ALE FERMENTS "Don" Put, replying to Spencer Thomas' post, wrote: HH> Now, I'm sure there are some low temperature tolerant ale strains out there, HH> but I'm not sure that they are included in the pure yeast strains available HH> to the homebrewer (from Wyeast, Brewtek, etc.). Has anybody had any HH> experience with acclimatizing an ale yeast strain to ferment at a lower HH> temperature? It seems that it could be done if the temperature was lowered Wyeast Scottish (#1728 I believe) ferments actively at very low temperatures without any conditioning, as long as a large enough starter is pitched (lager levels). By very low I mean that I have used this yeast to ferment as low as 40 degF with very little flocculation or cessation of activity. As I noted in an earlier post, this yeast is an extremely vigourous fermenter at ale temperatures, producing prodigeous quantities of heat. At these temperatures, it also produces esters reminiscent of concord grapes. Chuck /*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/* Chuck Wettergreen One beer at a sitting is OK. Two beers, maybe. Chuckmw at mcs.com But anything beyond that number goes over the Geneva, Illinois line of recreational drinking. Ann Landers /*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/**/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/**/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/*/* * RM 1.3 00946 * Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 1995 23:29:24 EST From: Bob Paolino Research Analyst <uswlsrap at ibmmail.com> Subject: Priming PETs, eisbocks are fun Peter Williams comments on carbonating beer in PETs: "I had to add a bit more priming sugar than I do in glass to compensate for the volume increase of the container." Huh? I assume you're comparing a 12 ounce bottle to a 2l PET, and that the difference doesn't have anything to do with the packaging material (..."to compensate for the volume increase in the container."). But _MORE_ priming sugar?? I think you ooopsed on the keyboard, because you would typically want _less_ concentrated priming sugar in solution when using a larger package. You certainly don't want to prime a kegged brew at the same rate as a bottled one. Now if you're saying that you have to prime it more because of some property of the PET compared to glass, then please clarify for us. Thanks. I've noticed that commercial beers in PET bottles are somewhat more common in Canada than south of the border (i.e., some are there; none here). I don't know what you have there on the Atlantic, but on the other coast (the other coast on the east-west dimension, anyway), I put aesthetic considerations aside once and brought home a bottle of Nelson (BC) Brewery Traditional Ale in a 1l PET and was greatly rewarded by a wonderful brew. Don't know what shelf life would be, though--I shared it at a meeting within a couple weeks of returning from that trip :-) Dennis Davison says: "I've had fun with eisbocks, hope you will also." ...And so have we, at least the ones who have been present on the occasions on which Dennis has wandered across the room filling people's glasses from a 2l PET of his eisbock :-) (Hi, Dennis!) Now go have a beer, Bob Paolino / Disoriented in Badgerspace /uswlsrap at ibmmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 1995 06:20:58 -0500 From: TPuskar at aol.com Subject: Brewing Techniques Several references have been made to a publication called Brewing Techniques or BT. My local brew supply houses don't carry it and were not very familiar with it. Could someone post an address and subscription info. I'm sure there are more of us out there who would like to find out about it. TIA Tom Puskar Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 1995 07:21:57 CST From: "GLYN CROSSNO" <CROSSNO at novell2.tn.cubic.com> Subject: Re: Mexicali Rogue "Rick Myers" <rcm at col.hp.com> says in HBD #1633 >Chiltepins, also called (Chilteqpin, Tepin, Bird's Eye) ARE tiny peppers, >and quite hot, too. They are "wild" peppers and are generally not >cultivated. They are round or slightly elongated and are pea-sized >or a little larger. My friend says this is the plant/bush he gave me. Size and heat are as stated. I've found that 1 in a beer is about right for me. I just score the skin and throw one per bottle in at bottling time. I *try* to wash it first. "Bar maid bring a pitcher, another round of brew." JB Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 1995 08:53:42 -0600 From: keithfrank at dow.com (Keith Frank) Subject: Extract brewpubs I'd like any information available on extract based brewpubs - names, addresses, phone numbers, or direct experience. Texas has had the brewpub law for a little over one year now. Some restaurants are curios about it, but don't have much room or capital for a classic all grain set-up. I thought an extract system might be a good alternative. TIA, Bruce DeBolt Lake Jackson, TX c/o keithfrank at dow.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 1995 11:04:01 -0500 (EST) From: david lawrence shea <dshea at ucs.indiana.edu> Subject: RE: Mini-kegs I have been using these for almost a year and a half now and they work great. First of all, addressing the tapper issue with leaking CO2 cartridges, it was mentioned that a customer had to screw it in with a lot of muscle. This in fact is what causes the problem. You need to only screw it in gently until the major CO2 blast subsides. If you try to "tighten" it further, you will chew up the plastic washer that holds the cartridge in place. Once this washer is damaged you will have the CO2 leaks mentioned. Second, as to exploding kegs, does this mean that the bung is being shot out or that the keg itself is damaged. If the bung just popped out, they have to make sure that it is pushed in all the way. It is easy to leave the bung just above the the lip where it needs to connected. This often requires light pounding with a hammer or a different brand of bung which will fit in more easily. If this isn't what is meant by exploding kegs, overpriming is the cause. One half the priming sugar is required, 1/3 to 3/8 corn sugar for a 5 gallon batch. The customers who stated that they didn't overprime, either miscalculated or didn't understand. I suppose if the CO2 tap was left on all the time this could cause some problems. There has been some misconception about the use of the tap and that it should be left open all the time. If you are conservative with your CO2, just using short blasts, one cartridge could last you one to one and a half kegs. If you are more liberal with it in order to produce a good head as you get near the bottom of the keg, you might get less usage. Hope this helps David L. Shea Indiana University dshea at ucs.indiana.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 1995 08:45:56 -0500 (EST) From: Doug Lukasik <LUKASIK_D at sunybroome.edu> Subject: Soda-pop recipies I know that this is not strictly brew related but if there is anyone out there with recipies for making soda-pop (birch beer, root beer, cola, etc.) would you be kind enough to share them with me. I am trying to find something to make for the kids and my better half since none of them drink beer. Private email at <lukasik_d at sunybroome.edu> would be appreciated. TIA Good brewing, better drinking, Doug. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 95 11:24:43 EST From: fastarke at rickstr.mawes.ingr.com (Rick Starke) Subject: New Brewery...First tasting Good day Brewfolks Just a quick plug for the locals. If any of you folks get up here into the New England area, and more specifically, Western Mass, there is a relatively (under 6 months) new brewery called the Berkshire Brewery, located in S.Deer- field. It was my pleasure to try their first bottled offering (that I've seen) Steel Rail Pale Ale. Scored a solid VTS (Very Tasty Stuff) on the Rickstr(tm) Scale. Standard disclaimers, not affiliated, blah, blah, blah. (But if one of the principals reads this and wants to put me on his "Free Samples" list, I'll be happy to change the disclaimer) - -- ******************************************************************************** * Rick Starke * When I die, I want to go peace- New England Customer Service * fully, in my sleep, like my grand- Branch Support Analyst * father did; Not screaming like the Phone: (508)836-1285 * passengers in his car were. fastarke at ingr.com * ******************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 1995 11:19:43 -0500 (EST) From: "NAME SEAN O'KEEFE, IFAS FOOD SCIENCE" <SFO at gnv.ifas.ufl.edu> Subject: SA 3Bock (TM) (sic) I tried SA 3bock last week and was truly disgusted. Some of the tasters found "meaty" or "soy sauce" like flavors that competed effectively with the "nice" flavors. Is this an unusual bottle or a flavor found in all of the stuff? I'm asking because I have a few other bottles that I will give away if I can expect the other bottles to taste the same. I would be interested in tasting notes from others. ThanX Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 1995 11:34:47 -0600 From: djones at iex.com (Douglas R. Jones) Subject: 5 litre mini-kegs I would like to offer a datapoint or two to this thread. I got my setup for Christmas. It is the Frische (sp?) metal tap setup. I kegged up 2 on 12/28 of a Bock that i had ready. Upon advice from my local HB store I primed with 3/4 cup of corn sugar. I did this since I also bottled 24 bottles from the same batch. The kegs sat in my pantry until I chilled one last Saturday. The other is still in the pantry. I have seen no distortion of the kegs. The chilled keg was tapped Sunday for the Cowboy game. I agree that it took a pretty hefty twist to get the cartridge seated and punctured. My tap has a valve on it to control the CO2 flow. I initially allowed the beer to flow under natural pressure. When needed I opened the tap handle and then rotated the pressure valve to get the flow I wanted. This seems to work but I have a lot of practicing to do! The keg was killed during the course of the game. I found that it took about 1 full cartridge and part of another to move all the beer. This amounts to two since there doesn't sem to be a way to use just part of a cartridge. At two cartridges/keg over the course of 3 hours I am not thrilled. This gets pretty expensive! It also makes me wonder about what happens if a keg is tapped and then it is consumed over the course of several days! It is possible I have a leak at the cartridge connection point also. Someone in the archives mentions using Vaseline or similar lubricant to try and get a better seal. I may try this when I tap the next one. I like the convenience but I am not crazy about the cost in CO2. My local HB store gets $15.95/10 cartridges which is steep! Does anyone know if there are other sources of the cartridges that are compatible? I post again when I gain some more knowledge! Doug - -------------------------------------------------- 'I am a traveler of | Douglas R. Jones both Time and Space' | IEX Corporation Led Zepplin | (214)301-1307 | djones at iex.com - -------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 95 13:20:30 EST From: "Crake_Kurtis_LT" <Crake_Kurtis_LT at hq.navsea.navy.mil> Subject: Fermentap problem/Refrigerator construction The Fermentap gizmo has been getting a bit of attention here lately, and I thought my recent experience might be helpful to any new users/potential buyers. Santa left me one of these thingywhompers for Christmas, and I was looking forward to giving it a try. I rapidly discovered that an element critical to the assembly was, much like batteries, not included. The piece-part in question was a standard 3/8 inch OD plastic racking cane. "No problem," I thought. "Just pick one up at the ol' homebrew supply." Well, I did just that, but when I attempted final assembly of the device, the tube didn't fit through the designated hole. A quick call to the distributor/manufacturer revealed that at least one other person had called with a similar problem. The gentleman I spoke with suggested that my brand new racking cane might be out of specification. I checked, and found that my new racking cane was actually somewhere between 3/8 and 7/16 inch OD (limit of precision on my yardstick). By this time, the homebrew supply store was closed...but not Home Depot! I found a 30 inch 3/8 OD wash basin standpipe rated for potable water service for 97 cents, which fit my Fermentap just right. Even came with its own Teflon compression fitting. So, the moral of the story is: Take your Fermentap valve body with you when you go out to buy your racking cane. Can't report yet on how the thing performs under the stress of actual fermentation...If some useful info arises from my experience, I'll pass it on. ---------------------------- There has also been some discussion of late about refrigerators, freezers, and temperature control. I recently learned something about how standard upright refrigerators (with the freezer on top) are constructed that might help those who are trying to control refrigerator compartment temperature with (or without) an aftermarket expanded range temperature controller. Most of these refrigerators have what appear to be two temperature control dials; one for the fridge, and one for the freezer. My refrigerator (and as I understand it, most typical uprights) really only has one temperature control. The dial for "Freezer" sets the temperature range for the freezer compartment. The "Fridge" control regulates how much cold air from the freezer compartment is allowed into the refrigerator compartment to keep it cool in there. You may have noticed that if you crank down the temperature for your freezer, things in the refrigerator section will freeze even though you've made no changes to the other dial setting. Changing one setting impacts the temperature in both compartments, and the only way to really control the system is by placing reasonably accurate thermometers in each compartment, and making adjustments to only one "control" at a time, then allowing several hours to assess the effect. Kurt Crake Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 95 14:19:07 EST From: danz at edasich.rtp.semi.harris.com (George Danz (919) 405-3632) Subject: 5 liter mini-kegs Yes, Use only the large German made CO2 canisters with the German made taps. Get some and carefully compare the ends of these "precision made" german ones with the crappy grey ones sold by brew shops which don't know any better. The thing you'll immediately notice is that there is no consistency relating the "depth" of the seal on the crappy ones. As a result, the cylinder does not mate with the rubber seal in the tap as the screw cap is being closed "before" the metal seal in the cylinder is breached. On the quality cylinders, the metal seal is always recessed the proper amount to allow the rubber seal in the tap to maintain a seal while the tap breaches the metal seal in the cylinder. Now someone with a lot of mechanical skill could fabricate a washer which would add enough depth to seal even the sloppy cylinders prior to breaching the metal seal, but I have to ask the silly question, WHY? The 16oz "quality" cylinders cost exactly twice as much as the crappy 8oz. ones. You get twice as much gas with half as much hassle for the same price per oz., so why screw with the crappy 8oz cylinders? Now that's the rest of the story. George Danz Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 1995 13:50:06 CST From: "geo" <WOLFF at albert.uta.edu> Subject: ppm vs. mg/l Teddy Winstead asks about converting mg/l to ppm. The answer is that the two are functionally equivalent. 1 litre of pure water weighs 1 kilogram at standard temperature and pressure (25C, 1 atm. pressure). Thus, 1 milligram of any substance dissolved in 1 litre gives a concentration of 1 part per million by weight. For brewing purposes, variations in liquid density due to temperature fluctuations and presence of fermentables can be ignored. John Wolff wolff at uta.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 1995 13:55:48 -0500 (EST) From: "Joseph E. Santos" <jesantos at WPI.EDU> Subject: Recipe: Black Gold Stout Thank you all for clearing up the PET issue, now I feel guilty about my lack of contibution! So, I'm going to share my most recent stout recipe with all. If anyone wishes to try it please send me some of the data I could not get due to a broken hydrometer. Many will recognize the ingredients as a combination of some of the favorite recipes found in various homebrew books. This stout was an experiment in blending flavors to achieve the best of all things "I" desire in a stout.It is similar to Mark Stevens "Black Cat Stout #1" with a few changes. Black Gold Stout (A beer so rich its worth its weight in gold.) 6# M&F Dark Extract Syrup 1# M&F Dark DME 8 oz. Black Patent Malt 12 oz. Chocolate Malt 12 oz. Crystal Malt 1 oz. Chinook Hop Pellets (60 min) 1/2 oz. Northern Brewer Hop Pellets (60 min) 1/2 oz. Northern Brewer Hop Pellets (20 min) 1.5 tsp. Single Fold Pure Vanilla Extract 3/4 C. Freshly Brewed Espresso EDME dry ale yeast 3/4 C. corn sugar for priming Living in a region with poor public water supply has unfortunately -or- fortunately forced me to use bottled water. For this I used distilled water with 1 Tbsp. water crystals added. Steep specialty grains then remove. Add vanilla,espresso,and extracts. Boil for an hour and cool. Rack to primary and pitch yeast. Within minutes activity was observed. Within 12 hours active fermentation, *WARNING* after this stage you WILL need to use a blow off rig. The activity subsided after 2 1/2 days then racked to secondary for 12 days to ensure no bottle bombs! Bottled with corn sugar and aged at room temp for 8 days. It is now 3 weeks in the basement and better than ever. Taste: It has a smooth, chocolaty, warm fuzzy flavor perfect for sitting in front of the fireplace. Q: anyone who gets the O.G., F.G., and % alchohol please send. Enjoy, DR J Just another happy homebrewer! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 95 15:37:03 EST From: Steve Robinson <Steve.Robinson at analog.com> Subject: acid rest/fermentation temp/water The recent discussion regarding just how an acid rest acidifies the mash prompted me to go look up the reactions involved. This is from Noonan's BREWING LAGER BEER, p. 107: Ca5Mg(C6H12O24P6*3H2O)2 Phytin + 7H2O | Phytase | \ / releases into solution: C6H6[OPO (OH)2]6 Phytic Acid C6H12O6 Myo-Inositol and precipitates: 5CaHPO4*2H2O Calcium Phosphate (Secondary) MgHPO4*3H2O Magnesium Phosphate (Secondary) The pH of the mash is decreased by the phytic acid, the mineral content of the liquid extract is increased, and the myo-inositol is a B-vitamin which contributes to yeast growth. ===== Spencer Thomas writes: >In the most recent issue of The Malt Advocate (containing, by the way, >articles relating a recent tasting of 25 years of Thomas Hardy's Ale: 8 >vintages from 1993 to 1968), the Homebrew column recommends fermenting >ales at 60-65F, in order to reduce undesirable aromatic components >(specifically, diacetyl, fusels, and excess esters). My feeling is >that this is asking for slow, stuck fermentations, particularly at the >low end of the range. Actually, my usual procedure is to primary ferment ales at 60-65, followed by a couple of weeks conditioning at 50-55. I pitch a healthy yeast starter and aerate my wort well, and have never experienced a stuck, slow fermentation at these temperatures. As I recently posted, I have a porter in progress now which inadvertantly underwent primary fermentation at 50-55. The resulting fermentation was slow (behaving more lager-like), but never became stuck even at these low temperatures. One of the things I've learned over the past year of reading the HBD is that things I assumed were conventional wisdom ain't necessarily so. This post thus caused me to go back to my library and see what others have to say about ale fermentation temperatures. So, a couple of references that support my practice: >From Terry Foster's PORTER, "The most important consideration in the primary fermentation is that of temperature, with 60 to 68 degrees F (15.5 to 20 degrees C) being the optimum range. . .Basically, secondary fermentation is best carried out at 50 to 55 degrees F (10 to 13 degrees C), which is quite typical for an English cellar." And from Noonan's SCOTCH ALE, "At this period [the 1830s], when the usual Scottish pitching temperature was 50 degrees F (10 degrees C), a typical English brew began at 65 degrees F (18 degrees C). The flavor impact of the increased esters produced at the higher temperature distinctly separates English ales from those of Scotland." ===== Teddy Winstead writes: >Next, I really, really need some help from you chemist types out there. >I've been using Kentwood spring water for some time now in my brews. >I recenyly got a water analysis sheet from them, but all of the values >are in mg/L and not ppm (parts per million). In an effort to correct >the values to ppm, I did the following math -- > >1. Compute number of moles of H2O per liter (55.3 mol/L). >2. Compute number of moles of the given substance to the correct number >of moles for that substance. >3. Compute the ratio of the two, hoping it would produce the desired >result. > >THIS DIDN'T WORK! > >What did I do wrong, and what is the correct way to convert between the >two measurements? By now, I'm sure your mailbox is full of messages pointing out that mg/L and ppm are one and the same thing. In SI units, concentration (just like density) is measured in g/mL. So: 1 mg/L * 1L/1000mL * 1g/1000mg = 1/1*10^6 g/mL = 1 ppm Steve Robinson in North Andover, Mass. steve.robinson at analog.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 1995 17:26:11 -0500 From: "Brent A. Spoth" <bas8v at dayhoff.med.virginia.edu> Subject: question about CO2 and equilibrium Joe Santos resently made a point that I had not considered in the talks about O2 & CO2 diffusion in plastic bottles Because the concentration of O2 is close to nil O2 WILLpermeate the plastic until equilibrium is attained between the concentration in the beer and the atmospheric concentration surrounding the bottle. I have learned my chemistry lesson of the day! BTW, If I understand this correctly the pressure in the plastic bottle would increase due to the excess O2 pressure. Could this be a cause for concern? Even though the laws of diffusion say that there is a force to equilibrate the concentration of each individual compound across a barrier, the force created internally by the fermentation reaction is greater. I would be surprised if the force due to diffusion was great enough to burst or deform a container of reasonable strength, so if CO2 Can't get out, but O2 can get in, I would bet that true equilibrium would never be reached due to the pressure constraint. Furthermore, if the O2 diffusion is slow, the CO2 pressure will build up in a matter of days so that the ability to uptake other gases would be greatly reduced in a very short time, assuming of course that all seals are adaquate. Brent Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 95 11:15:59 From: johne at execpc.com Subject: Re: Stiegel Beer (Austria) Greetings and Happy New Year to all! I recently had the pleasure of tasting an Austrian brew by the name Stiegel. I was (being but a novice) unable to figure out the specifics of this fine brew. I am hopeful that someone else has tried it and come up with a "clone" recipe for it. Thanks a million and happy brewing! John Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 95 15:01:21 CST From: "David Sapsis" <dbsapsis at nature.Berkeley.EDU> Subject: Licorice-y?/Dry Stout/Compost Spencer and Pierre both took me to task for describing something as unlike itself, and guess what? they're right. I believe most people got my drift, its just unfortunate that my hands didn't follow what my brain was saying. What I meant was that brewers licorice tastes very different than licorice candy, which as Pierre pointed out, is made largely from anise. Apologies to those that were confused. Also, like Pierre, I feel that licorice has a much softer flavor, and is thus better suited to beers. I have also used it quite successfully in a mead. ****** A number of people requested information in regard to my attempts at dry stout recipes ala Guinness, so I thought I'd post it to the digest: Grain Bill (for 15 US gallons): 16 lbs Hugh Baird 2 row 5 lbs Flaked Barley (I use the stuff available at a Korean grocery store) 2 lbs Hugh Baird Roast (550 L) Water treatment: 12 g CaCO3 (in grist) When using UK pale malt, I forego any rest in the mash. The high protien count in the flaked not only yields a creamy texture, it also contributes to foam positive protiens that can be degraded by excessively long mashing routines. If you do use dometic pale, I reccomend using the cereal grain as the heating agent to up the mash to sach temperatures. Simply cook the flaked in a pot with sufficient (read: lots) water to account for swelling - -- 5 pounds of cooked flaked yields a volume of about 16 liters! Presumably, many of you will be scaling the recipe down, so this should be less of a problem. Please note however, that flaked does not require a cereal cooking to gelatinize. Barley gelatinizes between 145-148F, thus at normal sach temepratures takes care of itself. Typically, I mash at 154F for one hour, Luater for 40 minutes at 168F. Target gravity of this beer is 1038-1040 (9.5-10 Plato). This is very important. If you want to have that dry finish, you must restrain yourself. You may not have to though, given the fact that in some lauter setups the high percentage of flaked causes problems with extraction, but I have not found this to neccesarily hold. I also reccomend grinding the roast separately with the mill spacing set closer. This is to assure greater color saturation of the wort. It also should be noted that if you use the lower lovibond roast widely available you will not get the beer dark enough. Hops should only be used for bittering, no flavor or aroma hops are present in draft Guinness, hence none here. But it is a quite bitter beer, targeted for 40-50 IBU. I favor the use of low and mid-alpha hops even for bittering, and have found Willamettes to be a good choice. In my current recipe, that calls for 160 g of 5 alpha hops. Again, my previous posts about the vagaries of utilization rates apply: YMMV. However, this beer certainly can be overhopped, and when in doubt, I reccomend erring on the light side (believe me I have done both and you can simply swamp the creaminess with too much bittering). Amazingly, of all the styles of beer I have made, this is the most yeast-insensitive. I have made good examples with Sierra, Mendocino, 1084, 1969, Fullers, 1098 and even 2036 fermented at 62F. The grain bill and hopping are what I have had to tinker with, and the reputed Guinness yeast (Wyeast 1084) does not seem to impart anything extraordinary. This is quite surprising given the dramatic influence I have found yeast strain to impart in other styles when experimeted with in A/B fermentations. Sometimes I add a small amount of 88% Lactic Acid (<10 ml) to the fermented beer to give a slight sourness as evident in Guinness Draft, but often the beer comes out with a faint tartness of its own, thus elimiating that need. Obviously, having a Nitrogen setup really help to develop the legendary head. In lieu of that, go for very low carbonation (<1.5 vols. CO2) and do what you have to to mix in air bubbles (in the glass!). All other proceedures are relatively standard. Good Luck. ******** One private poster reccomended to me that compost makes for great mulch, and that spent hops and grains etc. make great material for the hop yard. While this is true for fully composted materials (and that is where my spents end up) if you put your spent grains and other highly reduced organic materials directly on your hop mounds you are asking for trouble. the reason is temperature. Compost piles regularly reach in excess of 160F, and thats plently to kill live plant tissues. You can get by putting spent hops directly on your hops though, because what little substrate they offer for decomposition is washed quickly into the soil profile. Make a separate compost pile for grains and kitchen wastes and use that for building topsoil in your garden after fully composted. Compost, having a very high content of humus (mostly humic and fulvic acids) really helps assure regulated and sustainable soil productivity. cheers, dave ********************************************************************** David Sapsis dbsapsis at nature.berkeley.edu Wildland Fire Research Laboratory Dept. Environmental Science, Policy, and Management U C Berkeley voice: (510)642-8053 fax:(510) 643-5438 "From fire everything is created, and in fire everything ends up." --Heracleitus (502 B.C.) ************************************************************************ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 95 21:06:14 EST From: fastarke at rickstr.mawes.ingr.com (Rick Starke) Subject: Oops, Re: New Brewery... Hi again HBD'ers I made an error earlier. The Berkshire Brewery beer I had was Steel Rail Extra Pale Ale. Apologies, etc. so much for the "free samples" list :-( - -- Rick Starke fastarke at ingr.com * Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Jan 1995 00:22:10 -0600 From: mthompso at mail.utexas.edu (Mark Thompson) Subject: Chile Pequin/Chipotle/Thanks In HBD #1633 John Dodson wrote: >For some reason, I was describing the 'Chile Pequin' pepper and not a >'Chipolte' pepper. I've had these little powerhouse peppers. My brewing partner has chile pequins growing wild all over his yard. We've thought about using them in a brew, but they may be a bit too hot. John also wrote: >Chipolte's are >bought in small cans (4 oz?). They are packed with thick, red, smokey >sauce. Here in Austin, we can get fresh chipotles. I think I am going to try these instead of the canned. This way I won't be adding anything extra that may be in the sauce (vinegar?). ******* I wish to thank everyone who responded either in private or in public to my Mexicali Rogue/Chipotle question. Most suggestion were to make a chipotle tea and add to the secondary or at bottling time, or to "dry pepper" in the secondary. Mark Thompson, Austin Texas mthompso at mail.utexas.edu Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1634, 01/18/95