HOMEBREW Digest #1638 Mon 23 January 1995

Digest #1637 Digest #1639

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  American Brewer's Guild training (Doug Flagg)
  Whatney's Beers (faldska)
  Cat Meow 3 (MYETTE)
  Re: Alt / Kolsch H2o (TomF775202)
  Re: Soda keg prices (TomF775202)
  Krausening (Chris Strickland)
  Iodophors (Zeek67)
  Purple Haze (Zeek67)
  labels, water, chiller, HSA question ("Gerry Nelson")
  A-B Discontinues Reuseable Bottles (Dan Klein)
  Species name:Irish moss (Jim Cave)
  Weizen ?'s, yeast culturing ("Lee Bussy")
  Yeast storage (Maribeth_Raines)
  Wichita Competetion ("Lee Bussy")
  fruit beer (Michael Collins)
  Belgiun Yeasts (DavidM3019)
  Pseudo Guinness Stout (Michael Collins)
  Good winterbrew recipe (Steven M Verdekel)
  Cleaning Bottles (Jeff Hewit)
  1995 Bay Area Brewoff results (Bob Jones)
  Conditioning (Lee Bollard)
  Malt: Belgian or US? (Lee Bollard)
  Burlington, VT, BJCP Exam Cancelled (TAyres)

****************************************************************** * NEW POLICY NOTE: Due to the incredible volume of bouncing mail, * I am going to have to start removing addresses from the list * that cause ongoing problems. In particular, if your mailbox * is full or your account over quota, and this results in bounced * mail, your address will be removed from the list after a few days. * * If you use a 'vacation' program, please be sure that it only * sends a automated reply to homebrew-request *once*. If I get * more than one, then I'll delete your address from the list. ****************************************************************** Send articles for __publication_only__ to homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com (Articles are published in the order they are received.) Send UNSUBSCRIBE and all other requests, ie, address change, etc., to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com, BUT PLEASE NOTE that if you subscribed via the BITNET listserver (BEER-L at UA1VM.UA.EDU), then you MUST unsubscribe the same way! If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first. Please don't send me requests for back issues - you will be silently ignored. For "Cat's Meow" information, send mail to lutzen at novell.physics.umr.edu ARCHIVES: An archive of previous issues of this digest, as well as other beer related information can be accessed via anonymous ftp at ftp.stanford.edu. Use ftp to log in as anonymous and give your full e-mail address as the password, look under the directory /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer directory. AFS users can find it under /afs/ir.stanford.edu/ftp/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer. If you do not have ftp capability you may access the files via e-mail using the ftpmail service at gatekeeper.dec.com. For information about this service, send an e-mail message to ftpmail at gatekeeper.dec.com with the word "help" (without the quotes) in the body of the message.
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 08:35:00 GMT From: doug.flagg at chksix.com (Doug Flagg) Subject: American Brewer's Guild training Has anyone attended the advanced homebrewer weekend seminars offered by the American Brewer's Guild on various weekends around the country? If so, I would be interested in learning what you thought about class and content. Private e-mail ok if you want to keep it confidential. Doug Flagg doug.flagg at chksix.com - --- * OLX 1.53 * Misspelled? Impossible. My modem is error correcting. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 19 Jan 1995 23:35:43 -0700 (MST) From: faldska at asu.edu Subject: Whatney's Beers I was sitting here in front of the computer drinking a nice cold Whatney's Red Barrel when I thought to myself "Why don't I find out how to make this." So does anyone out there have a recipe for brewing Whatney's Red Barrel or their Cream Stout?? Preferably extract recipes, but I guess I have to start all-grain brewing sometime. You can reply here or in email. Thanks. Dave Oleksy faldska at imap1.asu.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 06:49:33 -0500 (EST) From: MYETTE at delphi.com Subject: Cat Meow 3 I have read some old issues of HBD and have seen mention of Cats Meow 3. where can I find this new version Myette at delphi.com `[1;33;41mRainbow V 1.11 for Delphi - Registered Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 09:59:44 -0500 From: TomF775202 at aol.com Subject: Re: Alt / Kolsch H2o The classic beer styles German Wheat beer book has some water profiles. Watch out when using the recipes in that book though. They all have rediculously high O.G.'s. For instance, an O.G. of 1.032 for 2-1/8 lbs of wheat malt and 2-1/8 lbs of pale in five gallons. This Warner character is getting some amazing extraction rates. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 09:59:48 -0500 From: TomF775202 at aol.com Subject: Re: Soda keg prices I have a source for these kegs very reasonably. E-mail me for an address, phone, etc. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 10:11:52 -0500 From: cstrick at iu.net (Chris Strickland) Subject: Krausening I tried krausening for the first time, used about 40oz of green beer from a 1.064 SG batch. I bottled the green beer and stored in the fridge, then primed with it before bottling. I've encountered two problems: 1) The beer is overprimed, what formula should I be using to krausen? 2) There's a whole bunch of crap in the bottom of each bottle, kinda like the junk that gets blow out during fermentation. I have to filter the beer before I can drink it. Is there a way to remove this stuff before priming. - -------------- Chris Strickland cstrick at iu.net Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 10:14:35 -0500 From: Zeek67 at aol.com Subject: Iodophors David Allison writes: "A while back I believe there was a thread regarding types of iodophor santizing reagents which contained phosphoric acid. I picked up some Mikroklene from EcoLabs which contains the same iodine complex as the BTF iodophor that I get from the local HomeBrew shop. The titratable iodine between the two products is basically the same, but the Mikroklene contains 6.5% phosphoric acid. For those of you in the know -- Is there a problem with this product because of the phosphoric acid? Is there anything else to be aware of?" I have trouble rinsing soaps and bleach so I am now using iodophors exclusively. I recently looked into this after hearing that you could buy 1 gal of iodophor udder wash at Agway for around $12. I called Ecolab to ask them if Mikroklene was safe for using in food service applications. I talked with a technical service rep there who told me that this product is not FDA approved. I don't remember if it was because of the phosphoric acid. He did however tell me about another product that is FDA approved for food service applications. It is called "Diophor". This should be used at 12.5-25 ppm. He told me it should be rinsed. They also have another FDA approved product called Ster Bac. I believe it is not iodine based and may be ammonium based. I have not yet tried to buy the Diophor yet but will soon because I am getting tired of paying $2 for 4 oz of the stuff sold in homebrew shops. The only problem may be having to order the stuff by the case (4 to a case). The number for Ecolab is 612-293-2233. (Blah, blah, blah) ~Zeek ZEEK67 at AOL.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 10:14:48 -0500 From: Zeek67 at aol.com Subject: Purple Haze I suffer from an occassional cloudy beer every so often and am trying to figure out why. I have discontinued doing a protein rest for ales using primarily (English) pale ale malt because I know these malts are highly modified. I do recirculate 2-3 gallons of my sparge (for a 5 gal. batch) until I am no longer getting small pieces of grain, but when you talk about recirculating until clear does that mean the runnings should not be cloudy and should be as clear as a finished beer? What is the best way to clear a beer that is cloudy from what I presume are proteins? Are finings such as isinglass, geletain, and polyclar used for this, or do these clear haze due only to yeast? Lastly, will overdoing a protein rest ( at 128+ deg.), sugar rest, or fining be a detriment to head retention? I am wondering if my recirculation is not effective because of my shallow grain bed depth in my lauter tun. I use a ten gal. stainless pot w/ false bottom. My grain depth is about 6 inches for 10 lbs of grain. What is the optimal bed depth and what is the minimum? ~Zeek Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 08:27:58 -0600 (MDT) From: "Gerry Nelson" <GNELSON at acad.cc.whecn.edu> Subject: labels, water, chiller, HSA question I've been brewing extract and partial mash for about three years, and listening in on the Digest for about a year, and I have some information/ideas that other beginners may find useful. I like to name and label all my beers (personal pride, I guess.) I use Avery removable labels that come in 8.5 by 11" sheets, and a laser printer. I print the name, type of beer, date, and put a nice border around it. Search and replace takes care of new information and the format stays. As long as you get the removable label material, there is no problem as the labels peel right off. As a new brewer learning my way around, the Digest has been invaluable. For those of you as new or newer to the hobby, and trying to find those things that make the biggest difference in the quality of your beer, buy a wort chiller immediately, and pay attention to your water. I just changed from tap water to bottled spring water, which I then adjust, and my pale ales, ESBs, and IPAs now taste like they should! A question about HSA; Why isn't this a problem during vigorous boil? Jerry Nelson, Physical Sciences Division Department of Geology/Geography Casper College, Casper Wyoming 82601 (307)268-2514 (voice and FAX) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 10:33:28 -0500 (EST) From: Dan Klein <dklein at freenet.columbus.oh.us> Subject: A-B Discontinues Reuseable Bottles Better get your bottles now. According to an article in "The Columbus Dispatch" A-B is going to stop using bottles that can be refilled and start using only bottles that are designed to be crushed after one use. This is suppose to happen after March 21. Cheers - Dan I Grow My Own Vegetables, Load My Own Ammunition, Brew My Own Beer, Kill My Own Meat, Work On My Own Car, & Fix My Own Home. Your Opinions Are Sought, But I'll Make Up My Own Damn Mind. +++++++++++++++++++++dklein at freenet.columbus.oh.us++++++++++++++++++++++ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 8:24:06 -0800 (PST) From: Jim Cave <CAVE at PSC.ORG> Subject: Species name:Irish moss Does anyone (Botanist) know the species name of Irish moss Carageenan. I live in B.C. where numerous species of algae are found I suspect that there is a species here that should mimic its clarifying qualities. At $4 an ounce, it may be economically viable! Jim Cave "I brew, therefore I am" Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 11:14:38 +0000 From: "Lee Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Weizen ?'s, yeast culturing Nybody notice how many people are making Weizens in the winter and Octoberfests in the summer? Rich Adams asks about adding yeast to bottle Weizen: Rich, Hefe Weizen is bottled with a seccond, dusty strain selected for it's ease of being stirred up into suspension again and it's flavor. This is why Hefe Weizen is not a candidate for culturing from the bottle incidentally. You can just prime and bottle as usual, should work fine. You can remove the wort for Spiese (priming with wort) but corn sugar will work and I won't tell them if you don't. =============== Pierre Jelenc throws in his opinion about agar slants: Pierre, while stabs are an accepted practice in a lab, and even homebrewers use them for strains (Brettanomyces) that require anerobic conditions, yeast slants should be streaked. The yeast does not suffer form not being "immersed" in the agar and it is quite easy to remove a tiny scrape to begin a starter. ================ That's it for this issue I guess. I have been down a while as I have been having software problems. Prost! - -- -Lee Bussy | The 4 Basic Foodgroups.... | leeb at southwind.net | Salt, Fat, Beer & Women! | Wichita, Kansas | http://www.southwind.net/~leeb | Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 95 12:51:11 PST From: raines at radonc.ucla.edu (Maribeth_Raines) Subject: Yeast storage WIth regards to the recent thread on yeast storage I thought I would add a few comments. Ed Hitchcock's suggestion to freeze in a cold alcohol solution is a good one. Thanks Ed. As far as which is better for homebrewers slants versus freezing both have there advantages and disadvantages. Freezing is better in terms of minimizing mutation frequency. Once frozen however, the yeast must not be thawed until use. So if your freezer temperature fluctuates such that you get any thawing or even partial thawing it can be a problem and definitely will affect the viability of the yeast. Storage at -70C or in liquid nitrogen is better and that's how the BrewTek stocks are stored. The other problem often encountered with long term storage in home freezers is "freezer burn" or a partial evaporation on the surface of the stored liquid. In order to prevent this you need to store the yeast in a container with a good seal; preferaly one with a gasket. Also the yeast survive better if they are actively growing at the thime they are stored. So it is better to freeze a portion of your starter (where yeast is in suspension in starter) than some of a yeast slurry from a priamry ferment. Yeast can be stored on slants easily for a year, I've had some do well even after two years. The longevity of the slant will in part be determined by the nature of the media on which it is stored. At BrewTek we use a media I formulated to improve growth and long term survival. Regular wort agar works fine but may not maintain viable yeast as long. The main problem with slant (and my reason for not being an advocate of using plates for yeast storage) is that they are exposed to air and oxygen. This is detrimental to long term yeast storage. They can after awhile dry out if not stored in a good container. Some brewing scientists actually recommend that you should store your yeast under sterile mineral oil. This seems like it would be messy and difficult to work with. Pierre suggesting 'stabbing' your yeast into the slant. This is indeed a good idea in theory and I have been experimenting with yeast storage in this fashion. Those who have purchased the Pediococcus or Brettanomyces cultures from Brewers Resource know that these are supplied as stab cultures. We use this primarily because it promotes anaerobic growth. If you do decide to use this method, you need to adjust the amount of agar in your media. Stabs use about half the amount of agar (0.8% sticks in my mind). The lower agar concentration allows the yeast to grow and spread over the surface of the stab more readily than in normal agar. The disadvantage with stabs is that it is difficult to see what you're extracting when you do it. I should also point out that in all my readings regarding the maintenance and storage of yeast I have yet to see stabs listed as a method of storage. I was quite surprised by this since this is a common method for storing bacterial strains. Interestingly, I submitted a brief article containing some of the above info awhile back for Brewing Techniques. I felt that it contained some useful information which was contrary to what most homebrewers practiced. For some reason, it was never published. I may speak on this topic at this year's AHA conference so it may end up getting published elsewhere! Cheers! MB Raines raines at radonc.ucla.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 15:46:13 +0000 From: "Lee Bussy" <leeb at southwind.net> Subject: Wichita Competetion This is another notice to all homebrewers and Mead & Cider makers. The Second Annual Greater Wichita Open Homebrew Competition will be held on March 25th, 1995. This is an HWTBA recognized competition so every effort will be made to fill the tables with sanctioned judges. Interested judges are encouraged to reply. All classes of Beer, Cider and Meads are accepted. First, Second and Third to be awarded in each class, BOS winner will be announced.. Packets are available e-mail or snail mail however you prefer. - -- -Lee Bussy | The 4 Basic Foodgroups.... | leeb at southwind.net | Salt, Fat, Beer & Women! | Wichita, Kansas | http://www.southwind.net/~leeb | Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 14:15:02 -0800 From: mcollins at mail.wsdot.wa.gov (Michael Collins) Subject: fruit beer I am preparing to create a fruit beer with raspberries and apricots. The various recipes I have consulted either suggest either adding fruit at the very end of the boil and letting it steep for 30 min or so, others suggest adding the fruit to the secondary fermenter. For those that have tried this, which is easier and provides more juicy fruit flavor? In the first technique do you strain the fruit out or leave it in the fermenter? In the second do you use (defrosted) frozen fruit and just add to secondary with no other preparation? If anyone has any comments on the recipe I have scrapped together, I would sincerely appreciate it: * 1 lb Wheat malt grain * 1 lb Dextrine malt grain * 3.3 lb light malt (dry powdered extract) * 1 lb. Bavarian Weizen (dry powdered extract, 65% Wheat, 35% Barley Malt) * 3 cans frozen Apricot nectar concentrate * 4-5 lbs of frozen Raspberries * 0.5 oz Saaz (60 min) * 0.5 oz German Hersbrucker (45 min) * 0.5 oz German Hersbrucker (1 min) * WYeast's Brettanomyces. bruxellensis Liquid Yeast (# 3278) Steps: Grains added and mash brought to ~152 for 40 min. Mix is strained and sparged, then water added and brought to boil for 60 min. Fruit added to wort at the end of boiling and allowed to steep for 30 min at 150 - 180 F. (\__/) .~ ~. )) ________________________________ /O O `./ .' mcollins at wsdot.wa.gov {O__, \ { Michael Collins / . . ) \ WS Department of Transportation |-| '-' \ } )) Olympia, WA (360) 705-7275 '---.~_ _ _& ________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 23:10:20 -0500 From: DavidM3019 at aol.com Subject: Belgiun Yeasts I have returned from a trip with the following Belgiun Ales. And my question is are any of them worth culturing the yeast. Corsendonk Affligem(Tripel and Dobbel) Duvel La Trappe (trible) From Holland Thanks in advance David Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 20:10:06 -0800 From: mcollins at mail.wsdot.wa.gov (Michael Collins) Subject: Pseudo Guinness Stout I would very much like some help formulating a partial mash recipe for a **pseudo** Guinness Stout. Any help on this out there? :) Please comment on the following recipe (it's based on one from Dave Miller's Home Brewing book). I'm shooting for 1.047 - 1.052 O.G. and 15 AA: 3 lb. - (some sort of) Pale Ale Malt (Extract Syrup) 3 lb. - 2-row Pale Lager Malt (Malted Grain), is this the same as Klages ? 1 lb. - Flaked Barley (Unmalted Grain ?) 4 oz. - Chocolate Malt (Malted Grain) 14 oz. - Roasted Barley (Malted Grain) 2.5 oz. - Goldings (Dried Leaf) one addition for 60 min Wyeast # 1084: Irish Ale, Liquid Yeast. Procedure: 1) Heat 6 Qt. of water to 126 F. Add 2 tsp. Gypsum (I use very soft artesian water) and check pH (Miller says pH should be ~ 5.0 - 5.3). 2) Add Grains and bring mash to ~122 for 30 min. for protein rest. 3) Starch conversion rest for 2 hours at 150 - 141 F. 4) Mash out at 168 F for 5 min, strain and let drip for 15 min. 5) Sparge grains with 2.5 Qt. of 168 F water at pH 6.5. 6) Bring mix and additional water to a boil and add Malt extract. 7) After 30 min add Goldings hops. 8) Continue to boil for 60 min., add Irish Moss in last 15 minutes. 9) Ferment for one month at 62 - 70 F. I have read somewheres that Goldings is the type of hop used in the real stuff... Is this the same as Kent Goldings? (I never see just 'Goldings') __________________________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jan 1995 20:38:01 -800 (PST) From: Steven M Verdekel <steven at cyber.cyber.net> Subject: Good winterbrew recipe Well, it's good to find a newsletter devoted to something that REALLY matters...Homebrewing! I'm new here, but I have been brewing beer for a good 4 years now. You guys all seem to be a little advanced in your techniques compared to me; an extract/grain brewer. This is good. I will learn new things here. Heres a recipe that I brewed earlier this winter and found it to be one of my better recipes. Give this a try if you like dark, robust, malty brews... 7 lbs. dark malt extract 1 lb. Crystal malt 1/2 lb. Chocolate malt 1/4 lb. Black Patent 1 lb. honey (clover) 4 tsp. nutmeg 10 inch Cinammon stick 1 1/2 oz. Helletaur hops (bittering) 1/2 oz. Helletauer hops (finishing) 1 lb. bakers chocolate 14 grams Australian ale yeast. The O.G. on my batch was a healthy 1.065, but as you probably have guessed...the final gravity wasn't anywhere near 0...which was good. It is the adjuncts and unfermentables in this batch that give it that special holiday/winter character. I will definanely try this batch again...but before next winter! Enjoy! Steven Verdekel Oceanside, Calif. GO CHARGERS!!! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Jan 1995 11:56:31 -0500 From: jhewit at freenet.vcu.edu (Jeff Hewit) Subject: Cleaning Bottles Since this seems to be a popular topic, I thought I'd throw in my 2 cents. First, I rinse out my bottles whenever I pour myself a beer. This is the easiest time to clean out the yeast sediment. Then, I run them through the diswasher as part of a regular load of dishes. When it's time to bottle a batch, I wash out the bottles with B-Brite and rinse with a jet washer. I run them through the diswasher - bottles only - with some bleach. I use the hot cycle, and run them through a second time - no bleach - using the heated drying option. I then let them cool in the diswasher, and bottle and cap right from the dishwasher rack. I know that I may be going overboard, but I've never had a problem with infection. Anyway, just because you're paranoid doesn't mean no one's after you. I know there is some controversy over using a diswasher, but I believe in using labor saving devices whenever possible. Jeff Hewit Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Jan 1995 09:29:56 +0800 From: bjones at bdt.com (Bob Jones) Subject: 1995 Bay Area Brewoff results Hello fellow brewers, Thought I would post the results from the 1995 Bay Area Brewoff held Jan. 21, 1995 at Lyon's Brewery Depot, Dublin, Ca. Pale Ale: 1st - Ken Brown, No club affilliation 2nd - Chad Thistle, Sonoma Beerocrats 3rd - Ebben Raves Mark Amonino, No club affilliation India Pale Ale: 1st - Steve Lambert, No club affilliation 2nd - Al Branch, Draught Board 3rd - John Campbell, No club affilliation Bock: 1st - Tom Altenbach, Draught Board 2nd - Steven Solik, No club affilliation 3rd - David Hume, No club affilliation Barley Wine: 1st - Jim Lopes, No club affilliation 2nd - Tom Altenbach, Draught Board 3rd - Bob Jones, Draught Board Stout: 1st - George Fix, North Texas Homebrewers 2nd - Jim Lopes, No club affilliation 3rd - Ward Bensen, No club affilliation Porter: 1st - Scott Parr, Big Ring beer club 2nd - Bryan Gros, Draught Board 3rd - Ward Bensen, No club affilliation Holiday: 1st - John Jaynes, No club affilliation 2nd - Peter Gotts, No club affilliation 3rd - Steve Jacobson, No club affilliation Mead: 1st - Loren Davidson & Dale Walker, Draught Board 2nd - Bonny Setzer, Draught Board 3rd - Lawrence Townsend, Santa Clara Valley Brewers Great food, prizes and music. A good time was had by all! See you all next year. Bob Jones bjones at bdt.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Jan 95 11:43:19 PST From: Lee Bollard <bollard at spk.hp.com> Subject: Conditioning I keg my beer. I've been racking from secondary into a corny keg, and immediately placing it in the fridge with CO2 attached for carbonating. Would I improve the taste of the beer by letting it "condition" at room temperature after racking to the keg, and before chilling/carbonating? How long? - --- Regards, Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Jan 95 11:45:02 PST From: Lee Bollard <bollard at spk.hp.com> Subject: Malt: Belgian or US? Since beginning all-grain brewing I've been making Pale Ales (only) using only DeWolf & Cosyns Pale Malt in single-infusion mashes. How would the flavor of my beers change if I switched to Schrier or Briess Pale Malt? - --- Regards, Lee Bollard bollard at spk.hp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Jan 1995 18:33:38 -0500 From: TAyres at aol.com Subject: Burlington, VT, BJCP Exam Cancelled I just wanted to let everyone know that the Beer Judge Certification Program exam previously scheduled for Burlington, Vermont, next Saturday, January 28, has been cancelled. I don't have the required minimum number of registrants (6) needed to give the test. Only one person has expressed interest so far and they haven't officially registered. Sooooo . . . sorry -- we'll try again some other time, perhaps in the fall or early in 1996. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1638, 01/23/95