HOMEBREW Digest #1639 Tue 24 January 1995
Digest #1638
Digest #1640
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor
Contents:
Hydrometer calibration (Mark Kempisty - 957-8365)
Re: Pathogens (John T Faulks)
Keg-CO2 (Kevin Emery DSN 584-2900 )
Coffee Beer (CA2160)
head retention (How come the future takes such a long time to come when you're waiting for a miracle 23-Jan-1995 0939 -0500)
Re: fruit beer (Jason Goldman)
Using fruit in beer (Hmbrewbob)
Mendo yeast trouble/AHA &EKG/rare hops/head formation (Gary Bell)
Irish Moss (Wade=Landsburg)
A picture is better than a thousand HBD articles :) (Kevin Krueger)
pH Meters ("A.J. deLange")
Too much mail! (EddieB1051)
Beer line length issues (David Kreml)
Yeast containers (Matt_K)
water/outlaws ("Charles S. Jackson")
Old Peculier recipes (Tim Fields)
Re: Baking, breaking bottles (Eric Schauber)
Old Pecilier recipes (Tim Fields)
Albany NY Microbrew Festival (Lou.A.Curcio)
points per lb/gallon (George Danz (919) 405-3632)
Keg Aging/Sanke Fermenter Concept ("Fleming, Kirk R., Capt")
Extra crystal in mash / Re: Extract Brewpubs (Keith Frank)
Storing crushed grains (rnantel)
RIMS and Steam Injection ("Fleming, Kirk R., Capt")
Yeast question?? (Todd S. Taylor x2718)
RE:Chidago area homebrew supplys (Jay Weissler)
Fifth Annual March Mashfest Competition Announcement (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist))
SLC Brewpubs (Jeff Bonner)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 8:24:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Kempisty - 957-8365 <MKEMPISTY at gic.gi.com>
Subject: Hydrometer calibration
Mike,
I'm not an expert on this but when I got my hydrometer I filled the sampling
tube with tap water and placed the hydrometer in it. The reading was
around 1.001 or 1.002. I forget whether I took a temperature reading to
compensate. For my uses the hydrometer is accurate enough.
I think you should read 1.000 in distilled water. If there is anything
dissolved in the water the reading will change. Since tap water is not
distilled water, then it will very likely not give a S.G. of 1.000. However,
if the hydrometer does not give 1.000 in distilled water at its calibrated
temperature, then it needs a little work. Your best bet is to just work out
new compensation numbers for the different temperatures.
If my assumption of S.G. of 1.000 for distilled water is wrong, then ignore the
previous paragraph. Somebody more knowledgable will surely correct me.
- -- Mark mkempisty at gic.gi.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 09:20:00 -0500
From: faulks at bng.ge.com (John T Faulks)
Subject: Re: Pathogens
Hardly legal or scientific but I understand that beer was *the* drink (three
times a day) in the middle ages because it was safer than the local water
supply.
John Faulks
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 9:22:38 EST
From: Kevin Emery DSN 584-2900 <ksemery at cbda9.apgea.army.mil>
Subject: Keg-CO2
Someone asked about the costs of setting up a kegging system... CO2 etc.
There are stores that will rent you a bottle of CO2 (Roberts Oxygen).
I had my own 20 pound bottle, and when I got it refilled, they simply
replaced it with another one. My bottle was "donated"..... The cost for the
CO2 was about $17.00 (Don't know how much to rent the things). Alas, there
is no way around the gauge. I think I got mine for about #35.00 . As with
everything in Homebrewing.... Better deals can be found if you look hard.
On a side note, I have about 15 corny kegs.... All were donated from diff.
places. To pay the prices some stores are asking seems a crime.
Kevin
North East, MD
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 08:37:09 CST
From: CA2160 at siucvmb.siu.edu
Subject: Coffee Beer
SENT BY: Jonas Hartzler (CA2160)
Lab Tech III Ph: 457-6414
Y'all write back now, ya hear?
Has anyone tried using coffee beans in their beer? I am interested in
trying a coffee flavored beer after reading the excerpt about it in
Papazian's Joy of Homebrewing Book. Should the coffee beans be ground or
whole? Should they be added to a secondary or steeped at the end of the
boil? Any good recipes available?
Private E-mail is fine,
Jonas
*** Information Technology --- Lab Technician III ***
*** CA2160 at siucvmb.siu.edu - Rehn Hall Room 17 ***
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 09:40:15 EST
From: How come the future takes such a long time to come when you're waiting for a miracle 23-Jan-1995 0939 -0500 <ferguson at zendia.enet.dec.com>
Subject: head retention
>Date: Fri, 20 Jan 1995 14:09:19 -0800
>From: Richard Buckberg <buck at well.sf.ca.us>
>Subject: Head
>
>My ales taste great and look good, but don't head well. I wonder if it
>might be because I usually use Irish Moss and Sparkolloid in the boil.
>Would those two substances be removing some of the proteins that contribute
>to head formation and retention?
put 1/2# of wheat malt in your mash. if you are an extract
brewer, do a mini-mash with 1/2# of wheat malt.
jc
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 8:08:38 MST
From: Jason Goldman <jason at bluestar.cnd.hp.com>
Subject: Re: fruit beer
mcollins at mail.wsdot.wa.gov (Michael Collins) writes:
> I am preparing to create a fruit beer with raspberries and apricots. The
> various recipes I have consulted either suggest either adding fruit at the
> very end of the boil and letting it steep for 30 min or so, others suggest
> adding the fruit to the secondary fermenter. For those that have tried
> this, which is easier and provides more juicy fruit flavor?
>
I always add the fruit to the secondary. I've found that this gives the
beer a fruitier nose and stronger fruit flavor. I've also heard that it
lessens the amount of haze in the beer.
> In the first technique do you strain the fruit out or leave it in the
> fermenter?
>
> In the second do you use (defrosted) frozen fruit and just add to secondary
> with no other preparation?
>
Even when I use fresh fruit, I freeze it first. This breaks down the
fruit a rittle better, making the sugars more accessible. And yes, I
just put the fruit in the secordary and siphon the beer onto it. Then,
after 4-10 days, I rack the beer off the fruit and let it settle again
before racking it to bottle.
> If anyone has any comments on the recipe I have scrapped together, I would
> sincerely appreciate it:
> * 1 lb Wheat malt grain
> * 1 lb Dextrine malt grain
> * 3.3 lb light malt (dry powdered extract)
> * 1 lb. Bavarian Weizen (dry powdered extract, 65% Wheat, 35% Barley Malt)
> * 3 cans frozen Apricot nectar concentrate
> * 4-5 lbs of frozen Raspberries
> * 0.5 oz Saaz (60 min)
> * 0.5 oz German Hersbrucker (45 min)
> * 0.5 oz German Hersbrucker (1 min)
> * WYeast's Brettanomyces. bruxellensis Liquid Yeast (# 3278)
>
For raspberries, I tend to use about a pound per gallon, which gives me
a very strong raspberry flavor. Between that and the apricot nectar, i
would expect this beer to have quite a strong fruit character.
Jason
jason at bluestar.cnd.hp.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 10:32:20 -0500
From: Hmbrewbob at aol.com
Subject: Using fruit in beer
In hbd 1638 Mike Collins has a few questions about adding fruit to beer.
I've tried a few different ways of adding raspberry flavor to my beer and
have settled on this procedure.
1. Defrost frozen raspberries in a large pot(I use my 5 gal brew pot)
2. When at room temp add 1/2 gal of hot tap water and pectic enzyme
(follow directions on pakage) and let sit for 3 hrs.
3. Bring the berries to 160F, remove from heat, cover, and let sit for
1/2 hr. This should pasterize the berries.
4. Pour thru a strainer and press fruit with a large spoon.
5. Add the juice(not the one in trouble) into your secondary fermenter
with your fully fermented beer.
The second fermentation should be finished in 2-3 days and left to settle out
for another few days.
Hmbrewbob at aol.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 07:42:16 -0800
From: gbell at ix.netcom.com (Gary Bell)
Subject: Mendo yeast trouble/AHA &EKG/rare hops/head formation
This past fall I brewed a Christmas IPA using yeast I'd cultured
from Mendocino Brewing Company's "Eye of the Hawk". It turned out
wonderfully, with a slow, steady fermentation and fairly low
attenuation. Each night I'd open the 32 gallon trash can water
bath housing my fermenter to carefully sniff the delightful smell
of the byproducts of happy yeast! This is the best beer I've ever
made.
I kept feeding a starter of it taken from the secondary for
another two weeks and used this to prime a pale ale. Everything
went well for about 2 days and then it started blowing off
*serious* hydrogen sulfide. I let it go to completion, put it in
secondary for a couple of weeks with a handful of dry hops, and
bottled. I can still detect a faint, and mildly unpleasant, sulfur
smell and taste in the beer (in the bottle for about 6 weeks now).
"Mutation", I mused.
Preparing to brew a pale ale this weekend I decided to go back to
my beloved Mendo yeast and bought a six-pack of Red Tail Ale. They
tasted a little light-struck, but I went ahead and put the dregs
of three bottles into a 1.040 starter and got a good, rolling
fermentation within 12 hours. At 24 hours the fermentation started
to slacken - it never really held high kraeusen. Suspicious, I
cracked the airlock and ..... hydrogen sulfide!!! Down the drain
it went and I went back to my calender to reschedule brew day. Any
ideas what's going on here (no, it's not sanitation)?
*****************
On the subject of that Christmas IPA, I entered it [an extract
brew] in the upcoming AHA "Club Only" Ale competition. It tied for
top honors with an all-grain entry, but as a fan of English Ales I
had used East Kent Goldings (and a dash of Hallertauer) to finish,
and the club went with the all-grain on those grounds, saying that
it would have to have Cascade to get anywhere in the AHA
competition. Is that really the way it is? I'm not interested
enough in competing to forsake my beloved EKG, but if it's true it
does seem a little [no, a lot] narrow-minded!
******************
Also on the subject of hops, I recently picked up a couple of
packets of hops from Brewer's Resource that CP notes as being
"rare", aren't mentioned at all in the HOPS.FAQ, and I'd love to
get some qualitative data on. One is "Wye Challenger", 8.9% AA.
The other is "U.K. Progress", 5.9% AA. Does anyone have any
experience with these?
******************
Finally, there has been quite a bit of discussion about head-
retention lately. I've been getting fabulous, thick, white heads
on my ales consistently when I've use British DME that I buy in
bulk. I had assumed this was due to dextrins in this extract,
which tends to finish at higher gravity than American extracts. IS
there any reason to expect that this British DME is higher in
head-building proteins than American products?
TIA for your thoughts!
Cheers,
Gary
Neo-Darwinian Brewery:
Where the beer is always evolving.
- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Gary Bell "Laxo, non excrucio, poto cervisia domestica."
Lake Elsinore, CA
(909) 674-3637
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 11:49:40 AST
From: Wade=Landsburg%SC_INV%Moncton at MNCGFC.GFC.DFO.CA
Subject: Irish Moss
The scientific name for Irish moss is Chondrus crispus. I'm not certain
of its geographical distribution but its very common here on the east coast
of Canada. There is a commercial fishery for which fisherman are paid
between 2 to 6 cents a pound wet or 9 to 17 cents a pound dry weight. Most
of it is shipped to Denmark for processing. Apparently they have developed
the use of many different types of sea weed for similar purposes but they
always have to add some carrageenan from Irish moss to get the desired
effect.
Wade
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 10:00:49 CST
From: krueger at comm.mot.com (Kevin Krueger)
Subject: A picture is better than a thousand HBD articles :)
I have been an extract brewer for well over a year now and I am ready to make
the leap to all grain. I have been reading the current HBD's intently and
have scanned all the the material in the archives, but I am still lost when I
try to decide what system I will use. I have read a LOT of descriptions about
the different system (thanks HBD'ers), but I need visual info! Pictures work
much better for me, so I am asking any fellow brewers out there if they might
point me to any magazine articles, books, whatever, that visually describe
an all-grain system. As with most brewers (I imagine), my main concerns are
with the mashing and sparging equipment. Thanks in advance for any help.
-Kevin K.
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 11:02:07 +0500
From: "A.J. deLange" <pp001837 at interramp.com>
Subject: pH Meters
Earlier this month there were a couple of posts about pH meters for use by
homebrewers with a request for further information. Here are a few tidbits.
A pH meter consists of two electrodes in series and a meter which measures
the series voltage produced by the pair. The reference electrode produces a
constant voltage irrespective of the pH of the solution it is immersed in and
the other produces a voltage which depends upon the hydrogen ion
concentration in the solution. Today, in the majority of cases, the two
electrodes are both contained in a single "combination" electrode. The
principals of operation are still essentailly the same.
The reference elecrode contains an electrolyte (frequently potassium chloride
which won't poison you if a bit gets into your beer but know what the
electrolyte is and don't stick the electrode into your mash tun if it's
anything nasty) some of which must flow into the test solution for proper
operation. The pH sensitivity of the other electrode is realized by reaction
of the ions in the test sample with ions in a specially prepared glass
membrane which is exceeding thin (and hence fragile).
If junk coats the glass membrane or plugs up the reference electrolyte flow
channels erroneous readings result. Some of the best substances known to man
for doing this are proteins of which, of course, wort contains a fair amount.
For reasons such as the one in the last paragraph it is important to have an
electrode tailored to the material whose pH you are trying to measure.
Manufacturers (e.g. Omega Engineering, Fisher) have applications people who
are happy to help you select a suitable electrode. One goes through a sort of
flow diagram in which one answers questions like "Does your application
involve lots of particulates/solids?", "Are high temperatures involved?",
"Are there proteins present?" (Mentioning brewing doen't seem to mean
anything to them). You can probably already guess that you come out of the
decision tree with the most expensive electrodes they make. Expect to spend
between $100 and $200 for a good electrode suitable for hot wort. And now for
the really bad news: a well cared for electrode will probably not last much
more than a year. Even the best electrodes are finicky devices that require
careful cleaning, storage, and periodic rejuvenation.
Now on to the meter itself. It is just a voltmeter but must have VERY high
(terraohms i.e. 1E13) input impedance (this is because the electrodes
themselves have very high source impedances). The voltage produced changes
74.04 mV per pH unit at 100C and 54.2mV per pH unit at 0C and is ideally 0
mV at pH7 regardless of temperature so a range of about +/- 600 mV is
required. The low voltages and high impedance imply that careful sheilding is
required.
The output from an electrode varies with age,condition and temperature. Both
the pH 7 voltage (its never actually 0) and the millivolts per pH unit change
and change fairly rapidly. For this reason meters are provided with
temperature, zero and "slope" knobs and the meter MUST be calibrated with
buffers of known pH (pH 4, 7, and 10 are standard) ideally before each
measurment but once per set of determinations is sufficient. In an analog
meter the temperature knob is set to the buffer temperature, the probe is
placed in the pH 7 buffer and the meter zeroed. In brewing applications the
electrode then goes into the pH 4 buffer and the slope knob adjusted until
the meter reads 4. One is now ready to check the pH of the test solution
provided that it is at the temperature of the buffers. If not the reading
must be corrected by compenasating the slope (gain) of the meter with the
temperature knob. Analog meters are available for a few bucks from places
like Edmund Scientific on up into the $200 - $300 range.
These days the zero, slope and temperature compensations are done
automatically using a built in microprocessor and the pH is displayed
digitally. These meters have a temperature (ATC) probe. To calibrate, one
places the temperature probe and the electrode in one of the buffers and
presses a "Calibrate" button. The microprocessor takes a reading and knows
which buffer the electrode is from the uncompensated voltage. You then move
to the other buffer and press the calibrate button again. As one of the
buffers was the pH 7 buffer the meter now knows slope, offset and temperature
and can correct readings at any pH and temperature (the ATC probe must be
placed in the wort as well as the electrode).
Digital meters are, of course, more expensive (starting around $300) going
way up into thousands for laboratory equipment. The handheld items intended
for plant and field use are well suited for the homebrewer.
In brewing we are mostly concerned with the pH of the mash i.e. when the wort
is at temperatures of 100 - 170 F and wish to know it quite accurately in
order to see if conditions are as required for the various enzymes. It is
obviously most convenient to stick an electrode and ATC probe right into the
mash tun to take a reading. Given the above considerations it is unlikely
that adequate performance is going to be obtained from an inexpensive unit
and, in fact the probe, if it contains a calomel reference will be destroyed
at 152 - 176F (not to mention that the electrolyte may pass mercury into the
brew). The alternative is to remove a sample of wort and cool it to room
temperature and let particulate matter settle before taking a pH reading.
Less expensive meters that demonstrate stability during buffer measurement
may suffice for this purpose (with the main remaining problem being protein).
They are also suitable for checking the cold liquor at dough in.
If cooled wort is measured it must be remembered that the pH of wort is a
function of its temperature thus when textbooks speak of the pH 5.2-5.4 range
as being the target for starch conversion these values are at the mashing
temperature. The range as measured at room temperature is about 0.2 pH units
higher. Note that this is not a manifestation of the temperature sensitivity
of the meter but of the temperature sensitivity of the buffer systems in the
wort.
A.J. deLange
ajdel at interramp.com
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 11:35:20 -0500
From: EddieB1051 at aol.com
Subject: Too much mail!
Please remove my E-mail address from your mailing list.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 08:25:42 CST
From: kreml at chess.micro.ti.com (David Kreml)
Subject: Beer line length issues
I am building a bar in a second floor loft of my home. My keg refrigerator is in
a utility room on the first floor. I am planning on running the beer lines from
the refrigerator up to the bar. The total distance is about 25 to 30 feet with
about 15 feet of this vertical. Does anyone see a problem with this? Will I
be able to pressurize the kegs enough to get a good flow up at the bar? I am
planning on running the lines inside an insulated tubing. Will I still have
problems keeping it cold?
Thanks alot,
Dave Kreml
kreml at micro.ti.com
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 09:33:27 est
From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca
Subject: Yeast containers
Message:
If you are ranching yeast as described in the Yease faq, you may
benefit from my most recent adventure.
The faq recommends using mason jars. Let me tell you, stick to them
(or, probably any wide mouthed container). Last time I saved my yeast
I didn't have any mason jars around and used two grolsch type beer
bottles to save the yeast. BIG SURPRISE when I opened one (carefully)
this weekend. Yeast escaping through narrow bottle necks makes the
most interesting splattermarks on the kitchen ceiling and walls (not
to mention the most interesting expression on my wife's face).
To pitch the second bottle I simply inverted it and popped the top.
The yeasty boys launched themselves at the wort like a torpedo.
In hindsight the whole thing is quite amusing but unless you are into
creating modern yeast art in your kitchen, stick to mason jars.
Matt (the yeastman)
Montreal
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Date: Sat, 21 Jan 95 10:38:46 CST
From: "Charles S. Jackson" <sjackson at ftmcclln-amedd.army.mil>
Subject: water/outlaws
My fellow brewers,
In my quest to more fully understand water and my beer, I saw and
bought copy of Dave Line's Big Book of Brewing, (you can't be too thin,
too rich or have too many books) The water chapter is the easiest to
understand of anything that I have read so far. Could someone please
comment on the content, its accuracy and reliability...I mean momma
always said don't believe anything that you hear and only half of what
you see (read).
Steve
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Brewing beer is far more exciting when it is both a hobby AND a felony!
The Alabama Outlaw
p.s. I received private e-mail from a fellow outlaw that stated that a
friend with an elevated position in state government will endeavor to
have the AL brewing laws changed in 95. We'll keep our fingers crossed.
Also, several months ago I said that I was going to undertake a search
to ascertain the brewing laws for all 50 states. I thought it would be
as easy as a letter to the state's attorneys office...boy was I naive.
$62.00 in postage later I still have ABSOLUTELY NO MORE DATA THAN I HAD
TO START WITH. I grossly underestimated the beauracracy. I have
scrapped the project. My apologies to any who were waiting on the edge
of their seat for the results. :-)
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 11:50:48 EST
From: TIMF at RELAY.RELAY.COM (Tim Fields)
Subject: Old Peculier recipes
In response to the request for an extract recipe for Old Peculier, here are 2
versions of the same recipe. The first of from Cats Meow 2; the second I
downloaded from a local (Reston VA) BBS (Burpnet, 703-370-9528). The second
appears to be the same recipe with some helpful brewing notes and comments
added. I have not used either recipe - pls post a note to HBD to let me know
how they work out.
Tim Fields
Timf at Relay.relay.com
Version 1: From Cats Meow 2.
Old Peculier
Source: Mike Fertsch (FERTSCH at adcl.RAY.COM)
Digest: Issue #225, 8/11/89
Ingredients:
4 pounds dark malt extract
1/2 pound roast barley
1/2 pound crystal malt
2 pounds dark brown sugar
2 ounces Fuggles hops
5 tablets saccharin
yeast
Procedure:
This recipe uses saccharin, but I will not use this in my beer; instead
I may add brewer's licorice or lactose for sweetness. The amount of
fermentables also seems low; I would add a pound or two of light extract
to increase the gravity to the mid-fifties. The recipe also calls for
priming with 3 ounces of black treacle, which is molasses. This seems
low, and it also seems that different brands would contain different
amounts of fermentable sugar.
Comments:
This recipe is for one of my favorite old ales---Old Peculiar. It comes
from Dave Line's book Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy.
Version 2 from Burpnet
Area: Rec.Crafts.Brewing
Date : Oct 27 '93, 17:14
Scn
>From : D S Draper 1:109/401.0
To : All 1:109/615.0
Subj : Line's Old Peculier recipe
PID: Fred 1.9q
From: gldsd at mail.bris.ac.uk (D S Draper)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: University of Bristol, England
Hiya friends, after my recent comment on the secret weapon of Old Peculier
being black treacle, several people have asked me to post Line's recipe,
so here goes.
Theakston's Old Peculier -- for 5 imperial gallons
water treatment as for stout
4 lb dried malt extract
8 oz black malt
8 oz roasted barley
2 oz Fuggles (bittering)
32 oz dark brown sugar - add to boil
Your favorite yeast
3 to 4 oz black treacle - priming
Standard extract technique--I've made it with a 2-3 gal boil then top up
to 5 gal. In Line's book, he calls for the addition of 5 saccharin
tablets, but I can't bring myself to do that. Instead, I use 2 oz of
lactose added to the primary with the yeast to give a hint of residual
sweetness. Line's technique is to boil the grains, but net.wisdom says not
to, and as usual the net.wisdom is right. No finishing or dry hops, the
hop nose should be low to nonexistent for this brew. After secondary,
transfer to a pressure barrel and prime it with 3 to 4 oz of black
treacle.
I've made this twice, and it is actually pretty close to the real thing.
I made it before discovering the net, though, which means I used all the
sugar and boiled the grains, and it *still* turned out really good. If
one should substitute one of the lbs of sugar with malt extract, I reckon
it would be even better; and steeping the grains instead of boiling will
be better still. As with every other recipe I've posted, I've used only
Edme dried yeast--use what you think is appropriate. OG for the recipe as
written is about 1047, final about 1012.
Finally, a historical note: the beer takes its name from the archaic name
of the local church official--the titles of these guys was "Peculier", as
was the region, sorta like "diocese" or "parish". So the guy would be the
Peculier of X, rather than Bishop of Y, for example. Legend has it that
when this beer was first formulated, it was such a favorite of the local
Peculier, who would find excuses to visit the brewery and then
*reluctantly* accept a sample, that the brewers named it Old Peculier in
his honor.
Brew and enjoy!
Dave in Bristol
* Origin: The Black Cat's Usenet <=> Fidonet Gateway (1:109/401.0)
SEEN-BY: 109/13 40 131 401 438 615
PATH: 109/401 40 615
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 08:52:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Eric Schauber <schaubee at ucs.orst.edu>
Subject: Re: Baking, breaking bottles
In response to Todd Orjala:
If I remember correctly from my high school chemistry, the structure of
glass is such that energy, thermal or kinetic, can be stored in the
molecular bonds. After a while, the stored energy makes the glass
brittle and susceptible to breakage. You may have had experience with
kitchen glasses that survive several dramatic falls, only to shatter when
tipped over. I believe that the same mechanism may be at work. If
someone more knowledgable of the chemical/physical properties of glass
can correct, elucidate, or expound on this, I would be grateful.
Eric Schauber
Oregon State University
"I'm not a real doctor, I have a Master's Degree in Science!"
- --Dr. Science
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 11:52:40 EST
From: TIMF at RELAY.RELAY.COM (Tim Fields)
Subject: Old Pecilier recipes
In response to the request for an extract recipe for Old Peculier, here are 2
versions of the same recipe. The first of from Cats Meow 2; the second I
downloaded from a local (Reston VA) BBS (Burpnet, 703-370-9528). The second
appears to be the same recipe with some helpful brewing notes and comments
added. I have not used either recipe - pls post a note to HBD to let me know
how they work out.
Tim Fields
Timf at Relay.relay.com
Version 1: From Cats Meow 2.
Old Peculier
Source: Mike Fertsch (FERTSCH at adcl.RAY.COM)
Digest: Issue #225, 8/11/89
Ingredients:
4 pounds dark malt extract
1/2 pound roast barley
1/2 pound crystal malt
2 pounds dark brown sugar
2 ounces Fuggles hops
5 tablets saccharin
yeast
Procedure:
This recipe uses saccharin, but I will not use this in my beer; instead
I may add brewer's licorice or lactose for sweetness. The amount of
fermentables also seems low; I would add a pound or two of light extract
to increase the gravity to the mid-fifties. The recipe also calls for
priming with 3 ounces of black treacle, which is molasses. This seems
low, and it also seems that different brands would contain different
amounts of fermentable sugar.
Comments:
This recipe is for one of my favorite old ales---Old Peculiar. It comes
from Dave Line's book Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy.
Version 2 from Burpnet
Area: Rec.Crafts.Brewing
Date : Oct 27 '93, 17:14
Scn
>From : D S Draper 1:109/401.0
To : All 1:109/615.0
Subj : Line's Old Peculier recipe
PID: Fred 1.9q
From: gldsd at mail.bris.ac.uk (D S Draper)
Newsgroups: rec.crafts.brewing
Organization: University of Bristol, England
Hiya friends, after my recent comment on the secret weapon of Old Peculier
being black treacle, several people have asked me to post Line's recipe,
so here goes.
Theakston's Old Peculier -- for 5 imperial gallons
water treatment as for stout
4 lb dried malt extract
8 oz black malt
8 oz roasted barley
2 oz Fuggles (bittering)
32 oz dark brown sugar - add to boil
Your favorite yeast
3 to 4 oz black treacle - priming
Standard extract technique--I've made it with a 2-3 gal boil then top up
to 5 gal. In Line's book, he calls for the addition of 5 saccharin
tablets, but I can't bring myself to do that. Instead, I use 2 oz of
lactose added to the primary with the yeast to give a hint of residual
sweetness. Line's technique is to boil the grains, but net.wisdom says not
to, and as usual the net.wisdom is right. No finishing or dry hops, the
hop nose should be low to nonexistent for this brew. After secondary,
transfer to a pressure barrel and prime it with 3 to 4 oz of black
treacle.
I've made this twice, and it is actually pretty close to the real thing.
I made it before discovering the net, though, which means I used all the
sugar and boiled the grains, and it *still* turned out really good. If
one should substitute one of the lbs of sugar with malt extract, I reckon
it would be even better; and steeping the grains instead of boiling will
be better still. As with every other recipe I've posted, I've used only
Edme dried yeast--use what you think is appropriate. OG for the recipe as
written is about 1047, final about 1012.
Finally, a historical note: the beer takes its name from the archaic name
of the local church official--the titles of these guys was "Peculier", as
was the region, sorta like "diocese" or "parish". So the guy would be the
Peculier of X, rather than Bishop of Y, for example. Legend has it that
when this beer was first formulated, it was such a favorite of the local
Peculier, who would find excuses to visit the brewery and then
*reluctantly* accept a sample, that the brewers named it Old Peculier in
his honor.
Brew and enjoy!
Dave in Bristol
* Origin: The Black Cat's Usenet <=> Fidonet Gateway (1:109/401.0)
SEEN-BY: 109/13 40 131 401 438 615
PATH: 109/401 40 615
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 09:59:26 -0500
From: Lou.A.Curcio at EXXON.sprint.com
Subject: Albany NY Microbrew Festival
Anyone with times/location of the next Microbrew Festival in Albany, NY please
e-mail me at: Lou.A.Curcio at exxon.sprint.com
Also, where can tickets be purchased?
Thanks in advance,
Lou Curcio
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 12:07:08 EST
From: danz at edasich.rtp.semi.harris.com (George Danz (919) 405-3632)
Subject: points per lb/gallon
I was reading the #1637 HBD and Andy W. refers to this number in calculating
extraction efficiency. I probably read this somewhere, but forget where. So
I'm assuming that if in a 10 gallon batch, my OG reads 1.052 (for example) and
I have used 17 lbs of grain to get there, that my extraction rate
(Homebrew method) is:
100 * 52/[#lbs * #gals.] = 52/[17lbs * 10gals.] = 30.6
{The 100 at the beginning, used to get extraction in percent}
If I were to divide this by 35, the supposed Dave Miller 100% extraction figure,
I'd end up with 0.874, which does seem to agree with what the SUDS program would
say I should get. Maybe it would be better if the SUDS program output the
30.6 number rather than a Dave Miller concocted number which, as you stated,
seems to vary all over the place depending on the grains used. The funny thing
is that the extraction I get seems to be pretty good, because the DEFAULT
value SUDS uses is only 75% (I seem to be getting closer to 86 to 87%). In
reality, if I get the gist of all this, I should be aiming for 100% or more!
George Danz
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 10:52:00 MST
From: "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt" <FLEMINGKR at afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil>
Subject: Keg Aging/Sanke Fermenter Concept
>From: Jim Busch (busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov)
>Subject: Isinglass and keg aging...
Thanks to Jim B for responding to my question (HBD #1636)
on this subject. Okay, so the airlock on the keg was a dumb
idea! The main driver behind moving the beer to a 2ndary
fermenter/brightener and THEN to the dispensing keg was
our overiding concern Joe Boardman had (same HBD) of
cleaning the kegs. The use of the proper chemical cleaner
didn't occur to me--amazingly enough.
My question now:
What is the distinction (for American amateurs) between
cask conditioning and priming in the keg? The terms seem
to be synonymous as I've seen them used.
>From: Joe Boardman (boardman at amber.colorado.edu)
>Subject: If you ferment in Sanke's, how do you clean them?
Mr Busch already mentioned cutting out the top of the keg
preparatory to use as a fermenter. I cut a 10" hole out of
a (perfectly good) Sanke keg, ensuring that after finishing
the edge of the hole it would just admit the Pyrex lid from a
cast iron Dutch oven. We wanted a glass lid because we
are beginners and still feel a primal need to 'see' the
yeast do it's work--what can I say?
I drilled a 1 1/8" (approx) hole through the Pyrex lid using a
home-made bisquit cutter and #80 aluminum oxide lens
grinding compound, then finished it up with a find grind. The
hole now takes a standard plastic airlock with stopper. For
some reason (which now escapes me) I did't want another
hole in the keg...
The lid is sealed to the fermenter using a gasket made from
food-grade clear silicone. This will soon be replaced with
the rubber replacement gasket sold for pressure cookers.
I hold the lid down tight using a crossbar hooked under each
of the two hand holds of the keg. In the center of the crossbar
is a bolt and nut assembly I screw down onto a rubber pad
placed over the little knob/handle of the Pyrex cover. This
retainer system will also be replaced with a spring-steel wire
bail which can be snapped up under the keg lip.
Pretty nutty, eh? The bottom of the keg has a 3/4 NPT coupling
welded to it (flush with the interior), into which is screwed a
3/4" bronze/stainless ball valve. The whole unit is mounted
on a wooden frame (giant barstool in appearance) which
holds the fermenter itself about 5 feet off the floor (at the top).
The entire assembly looks alot like an old railroad water
tower, so my friends tell me.
Kirk R Fleming
- flemingkr at afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil
- BEER: It's not just for breakfast anymore.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 12:01:27 -0600
From: keithfrank at dow.com (Keith Frank)
Subject: Extra crystal in mash / Re: Extract Brewpubs
***** from Bruce DeBolt ******
What general flavor characteristics are there if you use higher than
typical amounts of crystal malt in a pale ale type grist? I've never used
more than a pound in any recipe and would like to hear the experiences of
others before making 5 gallons.
For example say I mash 8 lbs of domestic pale 2-row malt with 1.5-2.0 lbs of
crystal malt, using an equal blend of 50 Lovibond/90 Lovibond crystal.
I know there will be more non-fermentables than with one pound and a higher
terminal gravity. Don't care about color or style guidelines, just flavor.
I've heard that too much crystal can impart an excess grainy flavor, but
can't find a reference for it. I looked in DeClerk's book last night and
all I found was a statement about not exceeding 20% of the grist, but no
elaboration (haven't read the whole thing yet so could have missed
something).
I'd like to thank those that responded to my request for information on
extract brewpubs. The answers fell into two distinct groups - #1 reply
"there is one in my area, beer is OK to below average" and #2 - call Kinney
Baughman (Tumbleweed Grille, Boone, NC), the beer is good and the set-up very
interesting. Philip DiFalco sent a "Tumbleweed Report" written by Mr.
Baughman in 1993, a description of the operation and philosophy behind
the choices of ingredients and equipment.
To those who cautioned me not to open an extract vs. all grain brewpub due
to quality and economics, don't worry I won't. Some restaurant owners
asked me and other club members about brewpubs and I wanted to see what
alternatives there were to the all grain systems just as a favor. For a
small restaurant with limited funds I think a carefully done extract system
could be successful, especially after reading the Tumbleweed Report.
Bruce DeBolt
c/o keithfrank at dow.com
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 13:06:54 +0000
From: rnantel at ibm.net
Subject: Storing crushed grains
I was planning on brewing today but unfortunately had to put
it off for 5 days. What is the best way to store my crushed
grains? I sealed the full 8 pounds in plastic garbage bags
and placed that in my freezer. Have I just made a big mistake?
TIA
Richard
//----------------------------------------------------------------------------
// Richard Nantel
// Westmount, Quebec Canada
// (rnantel at ibm.net)
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 11:16:00 MST
From: "Fleming, Kirk R., Capt" <FLEMINGKR at afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil>
Subject: RIMS and Steam Injection
>From: Peter Murphy (peter_murphy-G10826 at email.mot.com
>Subject: RIMS and Steam Injection
>From HBD #1637 Pete Murphy asks about building a RIMS. His
description of other systems raised a question: exactly what
constitutes a RIMS (Recirculating Infusion Mash System?)--have
I got that right? Do they always entail an in-line heat source
such as the one he describes?
I'll add a description of what we do, and ask for your
comments regarding our design vs typical RIMS designs. In
particular, what are the specific objectives of such systems?
We have your basic Sankey keg converted to a mash tun and
heated with a direct fire, natural gas burner (see r.c.b article
"Brewing System Description"). The mash tub has a ball-valve
on it leading to the inlet of a pump, the output of which can be
directed either back into the mash tub or into the kettle.
We've mashed for varying durations, then started a recirc using
controlled flow from the mash pump, gently distributing the
wort back onto the top of the grain bed. After at most 10 min we
usually get clear flow (although we used wheat malt yesterday
and it never did clear up--don't know why). In any case, the heat
source is the fire under the pot, we're infusing, and we're recirculating.
Are we missing important objectives?
WARNING:
I advise folks to be mightly careful with any steam generating
apparatus they might build and use. If a solenoid (for example)
fails, be certain other failsafe mechanisms shut down production
and relieve steam pressure (if any). Things like modified pressure
cookers can be deadly--no joke. I think it's important also for
those of us who build equipment to remember our insurance
companies will have us for lunch if we try to make claims for any
damages occuring as a result of using homemade burners and
boilers, etc., IMHO.
Kirk R Fleming
- flemingkr at afmcfafb.fafb.af.mil
- BEER: It's not just for breakfast anymore.
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 13:22:08 EST
From: taylorts at e5sf.hweng.syr.ge.com (Todd S. Taylor x2718)
Subject: Yeast question??
I'd like to ask a question about wort temp. related to yeast pitching.
I was brewing an extract batch on sun. and I cooled
the wort in the sink for 15 min with cold water and ice. While the wort was
cooling I dumped 4 gallons of cold tap water into the fermenter and put
the ale yeast in 1/2 cup of 100 degree water for 15 min to get the yeast
going. (I used the directions on the back of the yeast packet)
I dumped the wort into the fermentation buck and dumped the yeast in.
When I checked to wort temp it was about 55 degrees.
My question is:
Will a drastic change in temperature from 100 to 55 degrees kill the yeast?
This was ale yeast which to my understanding ferments between 65 and 75 deg.
If there is no problem can there be any off flavors producted with this
change in temp. using ale yeast?
Will I get any off flavors in the wort waiting for the temp to get to 65?
Does anyone have a formula for mixing two containers of water at a certain
temp. to predict the resulting temperature??
I guess I didn't realize how cold my tap water was or how well cooling the wort
in the sink works. ( It's winter in the northeast here)
I'd like any ideas or comments on this Thanks Todd.
If this kills the yeast I should be able to dump some more in right?
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 12:31:44 -0600
From: jay_weissler at il.us.swissbank.com (Jay Weissler)
Subject: RE:Chidago area homebrew supplys
pgravel at mcs.com (Philip Gravel) says:
>The following is a list of homebrew supply sources in the Chicago
area
Actually, it's a partial list, though maybe exhaustive for shops near
Naperville. I live at the other end of the city. Where you can find:
Brewing Beer, I believe on Belmont, Chicago.
Evanston 1st Liquor, Evanston
Heartland Hydroponics, Vernon Hills
also, I think Chicago Indoors is going to open a store in Chicago (if
they haven't already).
Various other liquor stores sell ingredients and equipment.
This isn't meant to be a recommendation, just pointing out that
Chicago has LOTS of homebrew supply resources. I still do a lot of
mail order for price and specific needs.
jayw
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 1995 13:15:43 -0700 (MST)
From: walter at lamar.ColoState.EDU (Brian J Walter (Brewing Chemist))
Subject: Fifth Annual March Mashfest Competition Announcement
The Mash Tongues of Fort Collins Colorado Would like to announce the
Fifth Annual March Mashfest
A Homebrewed Beer & Mead Competion
Entries will be due by March 10th, with a reduced entry fee if received
by March 3rd 1995. Judging will take place Friday evening and all day
Saturday, March 17-18 1995. The judging will again take place at the
Anheuser-Busch facilities. An awards ceremony/party will be held
Saturday evening following the judging at a location to be determined.
We are soliciting entries and judges at this time.
BJCP judges in the area will be contacted around February 1st or so.
Other interested judges feel free to request information also. Please
specify you want judging info, rather than entry info if this is the case.
For more information contact Brian Walter - walter at lamar.colostate.edu
And for those w/o email Brian Walter
618 Tyler Street
Fort Collins, CO 80521
303.493.2586
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Date: Mon, 23 Jan 95 12:26:18 PST
From: Jeff Bonner <t3345 at fel1.nfuel.com>
Subject: SLC Brewpubs
A couple of co-workers are going down to Salt Lake City in a couple
of months and would like any input on brewpubs/micro's in the area. I
seem to recall reading about a micro opening in SLC in a Zymurgury issue
but couldn't remember which one.
Any input would be appreciated, private email o.k. too!
Thanks in advance!
- --
Jeffrey B. Bonner - BWR Nuclear Engineering
Office: (509)375-8741, Rm. 867
email: jbb at fred.nfuel.com (work)
nukebrewer at aol.com (home)
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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1639, 01/24/95