HOMEBREW Digest #1804 Thu 10 August 1995

Digest #1803 Digest #1805

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Wyeast 3944 Results ("Sieja, Edward M")
  Re: Heat Exchanging. (hollen)
  Hop Growing Texts? (Ken Schroeder)
  User Error??? (Russell Mast)
  Colorado Pub/Micro's ("THOMAS STOLFI")
  Etched bottles & B-Brite (Ray Gaffield)
  Colorado Pubs/Micros ("THOMAS STOLFI")
  Re: pH Meters (August 09, 1995) (nm1)
  RE- WEB page for Portland (Prometheus Products, Mark Smith,PRT)
  Macintosh Brewing Softwar (Prometheus Products, Mark Smith,PRT)
  Re: full-boil kettles, chillers, Chimay yeast (Gary McCarthy)
  pH Meters (A. J. deLange)
  Breckenridge in Buffalo (ChasHal)
  Portland, OR Web (Tony McCauley)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 09 Aug 95 08:35:00 CDT From: "Sieja, Edward M" <emsieja at hsv23.pcmail.ingr.com> Subject: Wyeast 3944 Results Jay Reeves asks about Wyeast 3944 (Belgian White) at temperatures in the range 60 - 68. I have used this yeast with great success in the 60 - 65 degree range this prior winter. The early fermentation was vigorous (first 2 - 3 days) and then it slowed considerably, but never stopped fermentation. This was a tripel with an OG of 1.084. When racked to secondary after a week, the SG was 1.062. It then took another 4 weeks to finish in this temperature range. The beer turned out great and well worth the wait. This wort was well aerated and I pitched the dregs of a 1.5 liter starter, so I cannot fault initial conditions to the slow ferment. Since then I read where Pierre Celis was quoted stating that this yeast goes to sleep below 70F. I have since used this yeast in the 73 - 76 degree range with a Belgian strong ales with an OG of 1.064 and the results were somewhat faster ferments, but still slow when compared to standard ale yeasts (which never seem to go more than two weeks) on 1.045 - 1.055 ales. The results in this higher range were also very good. I could not spot any off flavors (e.g. zero banana). I have yet to brew the exact same recipe in the different ranges, but I am convinced that the higher range is more suitable for this yeast strain. I would like to try a primary fermentation in the 70 - 75 range followed by a secondary fermentation in the 60 - 65 range, but will have to wait for the weather to help out a bit. I have an attic enclosed closet which stays cooler than the house during the winter months which is perfect for cooler fermentations. Ed Sieja Huntsville AL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 8 Aug 1995 07:38:31 -0700 From: hollen at vigra.com Subject: Re: Heat Exchanging. While your experience may be immersion chilling from boiling to 75F in 15-20 min, mine certainly was not. It takes over an hour to do it for me. I have 30 feet of 3.8" copper in my chiller. The first drop to about 90F happens in the first 20 min or so, but the last drop to 75F takes the rest of the over an hour. I think your experience may be unique. How about it? How many out there can duplicate Doc's experience without stirring? I will bet not many. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080 Email: hollen at vigra.com Senior Software Engineer Vigra, San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 08:21:10 PDT From: kens at lan.nsc.com (Ken Schroeder) Subject: Hop Growing Texts? I planted some rhizomes a mere three months ago. Unbelievably, one Cascade has already produced a good crop of cones. Unfortunately, with the most recent heat wave (90F+), some of the cones have begun to turn brown. I took this as a sign that harvesting should begin. I looked at some of this first harvest and found a lack of lupulin glands (some, but not many). This got my curiosity up, how can I grow even better hops, more cones with more lupulin glands. Does anyone know of any books on growing hops? I already have Garetz's book and find that it is lacking the amount and detail of hop growing information I am looking for. The monster text type book is just fine, or just yer' average how to grow book will do. Any web sites with relavant inforamtion also helps. Private email to kens at lan.nsc.com works great. I'll summarize/post what information I get on hop growing literature. Hoppy Brewin' Ken Schroeder Sequoia Brewing Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 10:36:28 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: User Error??? > From: Btalk at aol.com > Subject: CPBF user error? me > "often "user error" says to me that the device me > was not as easy to use as it should be." > > Russell, must be you have never used a counterpressure bottle filler. Btalk (_if_ that's your real name), must be you make unwarranted assumptions. > They are not that easy or convenient to use. That was my point. The better CPBF is easier and more convenient to use. If, by nature, any CPBF will be difficult and inconvenient, this should be accurately reported. The Zymurgy article may have fallen short of this, mistaking ease of correct use with good results, but I wouldn't characterize them as deceptive. (Though I would perhaps characterize them as naive, which is not something I want in a brewing magazine.) Still, if a product is difficult to use correctly, but easy to use incorrectly, one shouldn't take too much umbrage at a reporter thinking they simply don't work as advertised. > Good results come with a little experience. Perhaps I'll give them a try someday, but I'll keep in mind that bad results come with too little experience. > It is my own fault for not paying attention. But YOU MADE the filler yourself. If you sold me one and didn't warn me about it, it would be your fault for not warning me. (OF course, if you sold me one and _did_ warn me about it, it's _my_ fault for not heeding your warning.) > I prefer the $.20 hose filler for gift or club meeting beers. I prefer to just chug from the carboy, but I try to get some in bottles first, because it's much easier to bottle BEFORE drinking a gallon of homebrew than AFTER. > Re: lager yeasts and wheat beer. > Traditionally the lager yeast is introduced when priming for bottling to aid > in conditioning. Not that you really need to use it... Perhaps a side-by-side comparison is in order. I make good wheat beer without it, but maybe I'd make better wheat beer with it... -R Return to table of contents
Date: 09 Aug 1995 14:45:14 GMT From: "THOMAS STOLFI" <OBCTS at CWEMAIL.ceco.com> Subject: Colorado Pub/Micro's Hello All: I will be attending a seminar in Denver next month and will have a few extra days to hit some Micro/Brewpubs. If anyone has any info on places to go in the Denver/Colorado Springs/Fort Collins/Boulder area please send me private email at OBCTS at CWEMAIL.CECO.COM. Thanks in advance. Tom Stolfi OBCTS at CWEMAIL.CECO.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 14:57:53 -0500 From: ray_gaffield at il.us.swissbank.com (Ray Gaffield) Subject: Etched bottles & B-Brite Thanx to all who responded to my question about B-Brite ( or pseudo-B-Brite) etching some bottles I soaked. I received a few private responses that said that the bottles aren't etched but have a deposit which can be removed by soaking in vinegar. So if you should have a similiar problem give it a try . I haven't tried it yet, but I will. Thanx, RAY Return to table of contents
Date: 09 Aug 1995 15:12:15 GMT From: "THOMAS STOLFI" <OBCTS at CWEMAIL.ceco.com> Subject: Colorado Pubs/Micros Hello All: I will be attending a seminar in Denver next month and will have a few extra days to hit some Micro/Brewpubs. If anyone has any info on places to go in the Denver/Colorado Springs/Fort Collins/Boulder area please send me private email at OBCTS at CWEMAIL.CECO.COM. Thanks in advance. Tom Stolfi OBCTS at CWEMAIL.CECO.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 16:36:13 -0400 (EDT) From: nm1 at keene.edu Subject: Re: pH Meters (August 09, 1995) I purchased a pH meter from Worm's Way Garden and Homebrew stores for $69.95 (part#PH520). (Disclaimer: blah, blah, blah) It has automatic temperature compensation and has a range of 1.0 - 13.0. It works very well, if you don't mind calibrating before use (solutions available). They have several available within your $$ range. You can call 1-800-274-9676 to order or for the store nearest you (they have 4 throughout the country). Hope this helps. Nate<nm1 at keene.edu> Return to table of contents
Date: 09 Aug 95 20:57 GMT From: D6164 at AppleLink.Apple.COM (Prometheus Products, Mark Smith,PRT) Subject: RE- WEB page for Portland Attn: Homebrew's Digest SentBy: Tim Sherburne Date 8/9/95 Subject RE- WEB page for Portland, >From Tim Sherburne To Homebrew's Digest RE: WEB page for Portland, OR Try accessing Portland, Oregon through www.city.net. CityNet has got pages for major US cities, in addition to some of the major cities around the world. You will be able to find a link to the McMinnamin brothers' Web server (!) in CityNet's pages on Portland, or try www.mcminnamin.com (I think). There may be other breweries around with home pages or servers, but I'm not sure of their addresses. Cheers, Tim Sherburne Return to table of contents
Date: 09 Aug 95 20:58 GMT From: D6164 at AppleLink.Apple.COM (Prometheus Products, Mark Smith,PRT) Subject: Macintosh Brewing Softwar Attn: Homebrew's Digest SentBy: Tim Sherburne Date 8/9/95 Subject Macintosh Brewing Software >From Tim Sherburne To Homebrew's Digest Macintosh Brewing Software There's been some discussion about the lack of brewing software for the Mac recently, a subject that seems to pop up every couple of months. I'm both a Mac software engineer and a homebrewer (wow, two for the price of one!), and I'd be interested in putting together a small project to fill the needs of other homebrewing Mac users. I have seen the ad for the Mac software in Zymurgy and I agree that it's cost is rather steep. Granted, I haven't actually ran the software, and if it washes bottles for me, then I'd say that US$40 is well worth it! I was thinking of something that is more along the lines of a shareware application that cost around US$5 to cover my expenses and has the "barebones" feature set. If users want something fancy, then they can spend their money on the app that is advertised in Zymurgy. Anyway, I'm interested in any thoughts others may have. If you've got suggestions or would like to participate in developing, send me some mail to me at "timothys at hood.uofport.edu" and we'll discuss it off-line. Cheers, Tim Sherburne Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 95 15:51:09 -0700 From: gmccarthy at dayna.com (Gary McCarthy) Subject: Re: full-boil kettles, chillers, Chimay yeast In HBD 1803 - Dave Riedel <RIEDEL at ios.bc.ca> says >begin doing full-boil brews I assume you mean boiling all your wort rather than doing a super-gravity wort and diluting? >Miller suggests a 33 quart enamel-ware kettle as an inexpensive option You can get an enamel-ware kettle in almost any variety store(ie, KMart) at this time of year for about $25- $50. A real good place is an outlet mall that has a Corning Ware store. Since I live in SLC, I can go to the Corning Ware store in Park City (actually it is about 7 miles outside of PC on the interstate). I picked up one, it must be at least 25(but it could be bigger) quarts for about $20. It also had the metal frame thingie for boiling glass jars. I use it as a overflow kettle, some people might find that the wort causes the enamal to flake. Corning also has 5 gal glass carboys for $12, but that was 2 years ago. >If I do a full-boil, I will need a chiller Uh, why? KIS, I always say. I have been doing a full-mash for 3 years and want, but do not have, a chiller. I either use the tub method or put the boiler out in the snow overnight. PS Did Ray Ownby (HBD 1794) get his burner from Cabelas? Let me know if you are hoppy with it! Gary McCarthy gmccarthy at dayna.com Reality is for those who cannot handle drugs - bumper sticker Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 22:15:36 -0500 From: ajdel at interramp.com (A. J. deLange) Subject: pH Meters Harlan Bauer asks about digital pH meters in #1803: There are several issues that need to be looked into when considering the purchase of a pH meter for brewing. Brewing applications can be very demanding for a pH meter. Actually the meter itself is not stresed; it is the electrode. A brewer wants to check his pH starting with the water and ending with the bottled beer. Neither of these steps is too hard on the electrode but during the brewing process he wants to measure the pH of hot liquids which contain solids and proteins. Thus he needs an electrode which can withstand high temperatures and which is not fouled by (or can at least be easily cleaned of) particulate matter and protein. Further, if he wants to stick the electrode into the mash tun, the fermenter, or the beer directly he must have an electrode whose electrolyte (some of which must pass into the sample) is not harmful to the beer or its drinker. Obviously all these requirements go away if the brewer is willing to withdraw samples, cool them before taking a reading (this effects the true pH of the sample) and then discard them. If he is not willing to do this then he had better be prepared to shell out $150 - $200 for an electrode. The electronics are pretty much standardized and can be selected on the basis of size, power requirements, bells and whistles. Handheld battery powered digital units with ATC (Automatic Temperature Compensation) seem to go for $250 - 500. Look for an input impedance of 1.E12 ohms or more and the features and accuracy you want. I personally feel that you should be able to resolve pH changes less than 0.1 pH but that's one guy's opinion. Harlan asked in particular about Omega instruments. I have used their PHH-70 (which is manufactured in England for them). It has served me well but I am sure that several of Omega's other models and the models of other manufactureres would have done equally as well so I'm not recommending this unit particularly. I will, however, recommend Omega's PHE-4841 electrode which I sort of stumbled across when the electrode I had been using was out of stock. It is a double junction glass combination electrode with potassium chloride fill solution (OK to go into your beer). The reference junction (which is the thing that causes most problems) is formed where the tip of the electrode plugs into the body like a ground glass stopper. The electrolyte flows through the spaces in the roughened mating surfaces. By pulling the top of the elctrode against a spring the "stopper" is pushed out of the body and electrolyte floods over the surfaces thus cleaning them of debris. One can periodically dump the electrolyte, pull back to expose the surfaces and immerse them in an enzyme based electrode cleaner to remove protein from both the junction and the sensing bulb. I've had the electrode I'm using now for about 11 months and while it has picked up about 11 mV drift the span is still as good as the day I got it. It is my personal feeling that a pH meter is like a microscope in the sense that an inexpensive instrument is more of a curiosity than a useful tool. An inexpensive meter is still a couple of hundred dollars or more and if the thing is useless to you that's a couple of hundred dollars wasted. If, on the other hand, you spend $400 - $600 on a good meter and your brewing doesn't benefit from it that's $400 - $600 wasted. So ask yourself what you are going to do with a pH meter and how you think it might improve your beer. If all you want to do is get familiar with the concept of pH measurement you can experiment with test strips or the little pocket meters (under $100) which are about as accurate as the strips. A.J. deLange Numquam in dubio, saepe in errore! ajdel at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 22:19:33 -0400 From: ChasHal at aol.com Subject: Breckenridge in Buffalo My understanding is that they will be open in the theater district downtown, they won't be brewing there just selling their products. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 1995 23:22:06 -0500 (CDT) From: afmccaul at rs6000.cmp.ilstu.edu (Tony McCauley) Subject: Portland, OR Web I had a number of responses to my query about Portland, Oregon beer related Web sites. Here's a list of the suggestions: <URL:http://www.teleport.com/~dgs1300/index.shtml> http://www.yahoo.com/Regional/U_S__States/Oregon/Portland/ http://pekkel.uthscsa.edu/beer.html http://www.teleport.com/~edl/orbeer.html www.city.net. CityNet www.mcminnamin.com I publish this list without having tried to browse any of them. The last one on the list came with the comment "I think" attached to it. I also want to apologize to Shawn Steele and the AHA. The list I couldn't find at the AHA Web site was due to an inept operator on this end. I took another shot at the AHA's site, http://www.aob.org/aob/brews/brewlist.html and found what I couldn't find before. Sorry guys. My thanks go out to all of you who took the time to respond. Tony McCauley -- afmccaul at ilstu.edu . Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1804, 08/10/95