FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor


Contents:
  replies/funny little tale (GubGuy)
  re:No-stir immersion chiller (Steven A. Smith)
  Colorado Pub/Micros ("Barry Blakeley")
  More Heat Exchanging/Bathtub Brews (DocsBrew)
  Who's Next?? (AlBrewer)
  Bitters and malt (Jim Busch)
  Dunkleweizen recipes ("The name if Buff. Max Buff.")
  Non-Shaking Forced Carbonation Question (Ken Schroeder)
  August September BURP News on the Web (Rick Garvin)
  Stella Artois available in U.S.? (BrewNews)
  Newbie question on B-Brite ("Mullins, Terry")
  Spruce Beer? ("\"\"Richard M. Erickson\"\"")
  Cold Clarifing Concept (mikehu)
  B-Brite and rinsing ("Allan Rubinoff")



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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 11:43:03 -0400
From: GubGuy at aol.com
Subject: replies/funny little tale

Dion states:

>While your experience may be immersion chilling from boiling to 75F in
>15-20 min, mine certainly was not.  It takes over an hour to do it for
<snip>

Usually takes me about 40 minutes with lots of stirring.  I too find it
incredible that people are claiming a 15-20 min cooling time.  I guess it's
possible, but I've never experienced it.

Gary asks:
 
>PS Did Ray Ownby (HBD 1794) get his burner from Cabelas?  Let me know if you
>are hoppy with it!

Yes I did.  It turned out to be a King Kooker (didn't say that in the ad), a
camping model.  I guess that means it has no legs, it's basically a 14x14x8H
box.  Works for me.  I must say what a difference from boiling on the
stovetop.  MUCH better, I'll never go back to the kitchen for my boils.

Much has happened in my brewing world since my last post.  I managed to get 2
kegs cut up successfully to go to a big 3 tier system.  BTW, anybody have any
nifty uses for the diptubes?  I hate to throw away all that good SS.  I got
my first brew in many months completed in a record time (for me, anyway).  I
also have just purchased my first kegging setup.  I want to again thank
everyone who had tips for my keg conversion; I'm not completely done, but I
have a good start and some great ideas on how to finish up.

Now to my last brew; Shootin' Blanks IPA.  Read on and the name will explain
itself.  Last friday I had a little visit to the Dr. for a vasectomy.  With
brewing time at a premium these days, I looked at my afternoon off from work
not as a time to rest up from my procedure, but as good brewing time that
would otherwise be wasted.  So you guessed it; I brewed beer.  I must say
this was the most prepared, most planned out batch I have ever done.  Didn't
want to strain myself of do any heavy lifting, for obvious reasons.  Things
were going great until the SO came home, then I was in BIG trouble.  I've
compiled a short list of responses that others may find useful in a similar
situation:

But my yeast was ready, I HAD to brew!
I rested for an hour during the mash.
I won't have any time to do this for weeks if I don't do it today.
The grain was already crushed and I didn't want it to go bad.
The Beer Gods will take care of me.
Yes, I'm being careful.
No, it doesn't hurt too bad.

While I wouldn't recommend being as foolish as I, everything did go smoothly.
 Probably due to all the thought and planning I put into it beforehand.  Just
remember, I'm a professional idiot, don't try and duplicate my acts unless
you are too.  No real reason for relating this story; 1804 was a little thin
and I thought I'd beef up the next HBD a little and show the foolish lengths
some of us will go to for the sake of our beloved beer.  Surely I can't be
alone in this; actually I'd like to hear from others with foolish brewing
stories; (FBS?).  That's it from the beer wastelands;
 -Ray-




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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 13:26:45 -0400
From: Steven.A.Smith.1 at gsfc.nasa.gov (Steven A. Smith)
Subject: re:No-stir immersion chiller

Being a lowly malt extract brewer (about 2 years now) and, therefore, not
knowing any better (read TJOHB), I've always placed my finished wort (started
with 1 1/2 gal of water for a 5 gallon batch), pot and all, in a water bath
(sometimes with ice in the summer months) stiring and taking the temperature
until it reaches around 170F.  I then transfer to the plastic fermenter and
add about 2 1/2 gallons of pre-chilled water from 1 gallon plastic jugs placed
in the fridge the night before.  While stirring like crazy to properly aerate
my wort, I take the temperature, usually around 85F or so, and add the last
gallon of water, sometimes temperature measured from the kitchen faucet, to
reach the desired temperature (around 72F).

So far clear, great tasting beer!  What am I doing wrong?

steve


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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 11:37:05 mst
From: "Barry Blakeley" <BlakeleB at den.disa.mil>
Subject: Colorado Pub/Micros

     
        Hi, Tom.
     
     There are a number of breweries and brewpubs in the Denver metro area.  
     My favorites are the Wynkoop Brewery, Champion Brewery, and the Sandlot 
     Brewery (at Coors Field) all in downtown Denver.
     
        The Wynkoop has great food (buffalo burgers, pasta, etc.) and 
     first-rate brews.  Their Railyard Ale and their stout are two of the 
     best brews I have tried.  Also, the entire second floor is reserved 
     for billiards.  It is located near Union Station, a few blocks south 
     of Coors Field.
     
        The Champion Brewery is on Larimer street, specifically Larimer 
     Square.  It has a sports motif and serves food "like mom used to make."  
     The Champion brewmaster is the former Coors (Golden, CO) brewmaster, but 
     I forgot his name.  I really enjoy their red and their brown ale.  It's 
     a really fun place with interesting decor.
     
        The world's only brewery in a ballpark is the Sandlot Brewery in 
     Coors Field (20th & Blake).  The food is good and the beers are not 
     what you might expect from Coors.  They make a brown ale, a red 
     ale(?), a wheat, a stout, and I think an amber ale.  The brown ale was 
     sold as a Scottish Ale in the ballpark and I enjoyed it thoroughly.  
     The Right Field Red and the wheat beer were good as well.  The food is 
     good and the menu has many choices.  During a game, you can sit 
     outside the restaurant, i.e. right field concourse.  You can't really 
     see the field from there, though.
     
        If you get a chance to go to the mountains, the Breckenridge 
     Brewery in Breckenridge is recommended (there is also one across from 
     the Sandlot, but I've not been there).  The Hubcab in Vail is a great 
     place, too.
     
        I hope this helps!
     
     
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
"Those aliens from the 8th dimension?  I'm looking at
  them right now!"
     
      Barry Blakeley        blakeleb at den.disa.mil
     Denver, Colorado
     
If I had 3 stars, my opinion would be that of DISA.
%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%
     


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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 14:26:49 -0400
From: DocsBrew at aol.com
Subject: More Heat Exchanging/Bathtub Brews

Okay, I give.  It seems to make sense that stirring your wort makes it cool
faster, once you think about it.  I just don't want to think about it any
more!!!  I got some SERIOUS replies by private e-mail.  Perhaps more than any
human oughtta know.  Thanks to all who replied.

Now.....has anybody ever used recirculated pool water to cool their brew?
 Seem like a good conservation measure to suck cold H2O out of that big ol'
reservoir and send it back to the jaccuzzi - besides, then you have a place
to unwind after a long day of brewing!!  I have all the hose I'd need (the
pool's about 40 feet from the brewery), and there's a spigot right outta the
pump, so most of the work's already done.  Ideas??
********************
And.....sometimes when I mention to folks that I make my own beer, they reply
with, "Oh, my grampa did that in the bathtub."  Well what the heck's up with
that?  I can't imagine that they mashed in the tub (doesn't seem very
efficient OR simple), and the only use I can see for a tub is as a heat sink.
 Any great explanations for this - or even some folklore?

Thanks a ton,

Doc.

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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 14:30:31 -0400
From: AlBrewer at aol.com
Subject: Who's Next??

It began with Budweiser picking up Redhook.  Then Miller picked up Celis. And
the rumor is that those two megas will own (okay, *plan* to own) 75% of the
craft brew market by the year 2000.  

Has anybody heard who could be next?  Anyone care to venture a guess?  Bets?

Al


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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 15:11:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Bitters and malt

Kirk asks a good question:

<Looking over four judges' comments regarding an ordinary bitter
<entered in two contests, two recurring themes were "more malt" and
<"undercarbonated".  The OG for this beer was about 34 (by design),
<and it was bottled with the carbonation level I usually use for
<bitters (12 psi condition and serve).  One judge did say the
<condition was "ok for style", but everyone seemed to agree it was
<low.

<have a question about the "more malt" comments.  Since simply adding 
<more malt would raise the OG of the beer, I don't think that
<is what the judges intend.  I think their actual complaint is a
<mouthfeel issue since overall the flavor was judged 'balanced'.  I
<reason one solution is to cut back the pale ale and compensate with 
<increased carapils and/or crystal, then balance this change with additional 
<kettle hops. Having no further information than the two constraints I 
<mentioned (maintain OG and increase body/mouthfeel), I'd like your comments 
<regarding my solution or other suggestions.

Kirk didnt say if he using British Pale ale malt, my guess is not.  This
this the first thing I would change in adjusting this beer.  Use a
good British Pale ale malt from Munton & Fison or Marris Otter or 
Hugh Baird.  The other factors do involve the use of British Crystal
or DeWolf CaraMunich, you want a caramel malt with between 60-80 Lovi.
I would avoid the use of carapils, either US or imported in bitters. 

I agree that the FG would be better in the 1.010 - 1.012 range.  I 
have also found that by brewing high gravity (1.070) and diluting to
1.040, my bitters are fuller, but I also mash with some Munich when
I do this.  You can also mash at a higher temp, and see how this works,
but the usual practice in the UK is to mash at 152F for one hour.

The other important factor is yeast choice.  While I can make a good
bitter using American ale yeast, they always taste better with one
of the British strains.  Also, these beers dont hold up well or 
travel well, so even if the beer is great on tap it might be not so
great at the judging table.

Have fun,

Jim Busch

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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 08:00:27 EDT
From: "The name if Buff. Max Buff." <johnm at giant.IntraNet.com>
Subject: Dunkleweizen recipes

Does anyone have a good all grain dunkelweizen recipe they could share with me. 
Private e-mail is probably best.  Thanks !

			John Mccafferty
			Chelmsford, MA

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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 08:53:14 PDT
From: kens at lan.nsc.com (Ken Schroeder)
Subject: Non-Shaking Forced Carbonation Question

A few weeks back, an article was posted by one of our main contributers
about forced carbopnation without shaking. Sorry, I don't remember who.
I tried the recomendation and found it to be a very good method of
forced corbonation. As promoised, CO2 bubbles are small, a very fine 
carbonation indeed. The problem I found is controll of the amount of
disolved CO2. From memory, the recomendation urged an injection of
40lbs CO2 for the first 2 hours, then 25lbs every 2 hours or so for 2 
days. I now wish to be able to control the CO2 volume disovled. Can the
poster, if possible, please elaborate on the volume control.

I did not receive my HBD today (AI robot at work?), so a private
email to kens2lan.nsc.com would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hoppy Brewin'

Ken Schroeder
Sequoia Brewing

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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 11:34:55 EDT
From: rgarvin at btg.com (Rick Garvin)
Subject: August September BURP News on the Web

The most recent BURP News is available on the Web on the BURP home page, URL
http://www.btg.com/~rgarvin/burp/burp.html

Also, check out the announcement of MASHOUT, the Mid-Atlantic regional
homebrewer campout in the mountains of Maryland August 25-27.

Cheers, Rick


=====================================================================
| Rick Garvin (RG79)             BTG, Inc.                          |
| Senior Systems Engineer        Information Systems Group          |
| Internet Systems Architect     1945 Old Gallows Road              |
| rgarvin at btg.com                Vienna, VA 22182                   |
| rgarvin at burp.org               800-548-7544 x6630, 703-761-6630   |
| http://www.btg.com/~rgarvin    FAX 703-761-3245                   |
=====================================================================


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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 1995 15:55:10 -0400
From: BrewNews at aol.com
Subject: Stella Artois available in U.S.?

Does anyone know if Stella Artois Pilsner is available anywhere in the U.S.
and if so, who imports it, where they're located and/or how to reach the
importer. Any information you have would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sara Doersam
Pleased respond to: BrewNews at aol.com

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Date: 11 Aug 1995 16:06:15 -0500
From: "Mullins, Terry" <tmullins at mailcenter.tsmi.iitri.com>
Subject: Newbie question on B-Brite

Sorry if this is a naive question, I'm currently sitting on my third batch. 
I've been reading HBD submissions lately regarding B-Brite.  My (newbie) book
says I should use Clorox & Water to sterilize & clean my equipment.  Is
B-Brite better, worse, cheaper, more-expensive?

Thanks in advance,
Terry Mullins

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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 16:19:13 -0400
From: "\"\"Richard M. Erickson\"\"" <rmericks at mailbox.syr.edu>
Subject: Spruce Beer?

Hello, fellow netters!

This is my first submission to this list.. Hope it works.  I am interested
to know if anyone has experimented with a Spruce beer.  I talked with
a local brewer and she said one she tried was great, and another was
not drinkable.  She didn't have either recipe.  Any ideas/recipes?

Thanks in advance,

Mark Erickson
 rmericks at mailbox.syr.edu

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Date: Fri, 11 Aug 95 13:28:20 PDT
From: mikehu at lmc.com
Subject: Cold Clarifing Concept

Greetings All-

XDCHRISTIAN (Sorry I lost your real name) Writes:

> The problem is that some of my friends who I have been turning on to
> homebrew are concerned about the haze and sometimes I get the little
> chunckies.
> Would someone be willing to help me out with the right clarifiers.
> I know gelatin, policler, isinglass all work on different things like
> chill haze and proteins...  What I am considering is after primary
> fermentation is over (for ales), I would turn the frig down to 40-50F
> for a week or 2.  Would this clear my beers with out having to add
> clarifiers?

Here's an idea you may want to try. I am able to get crystal clear beer
every time without using any clarifiers at all. All I do is put my
secondary fermentor (glass carboy) in my beer fridge 2 days before I 
transfer to kegs. (My fridge stays around 40F) This seems to have two 
effects - The yeast and any hop seeds (or little chunckies) drop right 
out of suspension, and the yeast sediment at the bottom congeals. When I 
siphon the beer, I am able to get every last drop without picking up the 
yeast slurry from the bottom with my racking cane. Give it a try. I really 
like the fact that I can get crystal clear beer without adding anything 
"strange" to my brew. Not to mention the added hassle and risk of 
contamination.

Cheers,
    Mike H.
    mikehu at synopsys.com
                    "I feel more like I do now than I did before!!!"

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Date: 11 Aug 1995 14:01:33 -0400
From: "Allan Rubinoff" <allan_rubinoff at mathworks.com>
Subject: B-Brite and rinsing

In HBD #1805, Harry (hbush at pppl.gov) writes:

> There's been some talk that what was
> originally thought to be etching is actually a deposit- do you folks rinse
> after the B-Brite? I've seen somewhere that you don't have to but have
> never believed it. I always rinse with hot water after using B-Brite (I'll
> risk those few cooties), and especially do now that it does this suds
> thang. Whenever I've let a B-Brite solution just evaporate, it leaves a
> major white film/crust- very unappealing for a cleaner/sanitizer. So far,
> with hot water rinsing, never an infection (knock wood).


B-Brite is not a no-rinse sanitizer.  You may be thinking of iodophor.  
Things sanitized in iodophor can be air-dried without rinsing.

By the way, you'd probably be better off using cold water to rinse, rather 
than hot water.  A water heater is actually a pretty bacteria-friendly 
environment.  The water is generally about 130-140 F, which promotes the
growth of bacteria, whereas cold water is less hospitable.

Allan Rubinoff
arubinoff at mathworks.com



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End of HOMEBREW Digest #1806, 08/12/95