HOMEBREW Digest #1865 Tue 24 October 1995

Digest #1864 Digest #1866

		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  re: Rootbeer warning (Steve E. Mercer)
  Trying to be brief about styles. (Russell Mast)
  mason jars (KrisPerez)
  RE: Labels, Labels /Concrete Mill (Brian Pickerill)
  Swollen bags of LME from James Page (Brian Pickerill)
  Stopper Stuck in Carboy (Jeff Hewit)
  Isinglass... (blacksab)
  Re: stuck mead (Dick Dunn)
  Re: Wort chillers, etc. (Woodstok)
  Re: Green stuff in the Cobra tap, pale malt vs. pilsen malt (HOMEBRE973)
  Temp Conversion ("Bruce Eckert/Info Systems/Holland Community")
  Headache in a Bottle (CHARLIE SCANDRETT)
  Re: Sam Adams Triple Bock, aeration (hollen)
  Historic Styles (STAN MARX)
  styles (Scott E. Bratlie)
  Blue Moon recipe? (Cyruslax)
  Someone sent me a greeting card? ("Dave Draper")
  New German Malt (Evan Kraus)
  Toasted Malt/Home Depot/DMHO (Eric W. Miller)
  Hot side aeration (Ray Robert)
  Stuck Brew Resolved!!! ("Ed Lustenader")
  Maine brewers' festiva (kit.anderson)
  DHMO paranoia ("Keith Royster")
  Mason jar bombs ("Taber, Bruce")
  Are my Hops Ruined? (AMHR?) ("Glyn Crossno")
  Mason Jars (Matt_K)
  Bitter Beer Bread ("Herb B. Tuten")
  Mason Jars for Bottling (BOB)
  Freezer/ Frig meed (Michael McGuire)
  Used Corny Keg Prep (hollen)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 20 Oct 95 14:43:37 CDT From: mercese at anubis.network.com (Steve E. Mercer) Subject: re: Rootbeer warning >I can't put my finger on it right now, but I read very recently that >Sassafras root is not only mildly poisonous, but that the FDA has also made >it illegal to sell (I'm talking about the root here, and not the bark). I >might even have read this on the rootbeer page that Mark mentioned, and I >recall the discussion being rather emphatic. I'm out of town right now and >don't have all my stuff with me, so I can't post the details, but thought >the warning should be made anyway. Anyone know anyhing more on this subject? >I for one would be REAL curious to know the level of danger present because >there is all kinds of Sassafras down in Carbondale, and I was very >disappointed when I read it because at the time I was thinking about making >some. Traditional root beer is flavored with the root bark of the sassafras tree (_Sassofras_variifolium_). The root bark cannot be sold for human consumption in the US. Sassafras contains the chemical known as safrole which has been shown to be a carcinogen in laboratory animals. Its oral toxicity in rats is 50% lethality at a dose of 1.95 g per kg. (_TD50_ = 1.95 g/kg) Oil of sassafras is about 75 percent safrole. HEPR (%) HUMAN EXPOSURE (PER DAY) RAT CARCINOGEN 4.7 Wine (250ml) Ethanol (30 ml) 2.8 Beer (12 oz; 354 ml) Ethanol (18 ml) 0.3 Lettuce, 1/8 head (125 g) Caffeic acid (66.3 mg) 0.2 Real Root Beer (12 oz; 354 ml) Safrole (6.6 mg) 0.1 Apple, 1 whole (230 g) Caffeic acid (24.4 mg) _TD50_ = the daily lifetime dose (milligrams of chemical per kilo- gram of body weight per day) which halves the proportion of rats which remain cancer-free at the end of a standard lifetime. _HEPR_ = (Human Exposure/Rat Potency) the percentage of TD50 received by a 70 kilogram human for the given lifetime intake rate, i.e., (mg chemical per day) / (70 kg)/(TD50 for that chemical). HEPR is not a direct estimate of the risk of a human getting cancer, but rather is an index of relative carcinogenicity. One glass of beer is about 14 times more carcinogenic than one glass of root beer flavored with sassafras. One glass of wine is about 23.5 times more carcinogenic. This information is in the Root Beer FAQ available at http://alpha.rollanet.org/library/RootB.html - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 1995 15:38:02 -0500 From: Russell Mast <rmast at fnbc.com> Subject: Trying to be brief about styles. First, let me say that Rob Lauritsen pretty much sums up my opinion about styles with his comments about "reifying", and that styles are good tools for competetions but should not restrict brewing to your heart's content. > From: CHARLIE SCANDRETT <merino at ozemail.com.au> > Subject: Styles Vs Eclecticism > I rest my case! From and outsider's point of view ... with experience of > wine competitions, this seems absurd. Wine is grouped into styles (usually > grape varieties) and judged on excellence. I have never heard of points for > comformance to style?! What would happen if I entered the best beer you've ever tasted in a wine competetion? > CS>Let the brewer woo the palate within broarder categories! If you brew solely for winning competetions, or would like to, regardless of whether you brew to style, I pity you, I pity you. If you make good beer and you know it, who cares what some smelly old judge says about it? > Why? This is OK as a hobby, but where it overlaps into quality commercial > brewing it seems a little fundamentalist to me. Does it? I've seen lots of new craft beers in the US that don't fit well within stylistic boundaries, and lots of which would have to be entered into the catch-all "specialty beer" categories. I hope the same is true Down Under. -R Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 1995 16:35:33 -0400 From: KrisPerez at aol.com Subject: mason jars LFCP67A at prodigy.com (MR MARK W LEVESQUE) writes: >>A friend of mine has loads of the mason type canning jars in his >>basement. They must be airtight since people use them to can veggies >>etc. for the long term. Anyone out there ever try using those to >>bottle home brew? I guess one concern would be strength/thickness of >>the glass. Mason jars are made to hold in a vacuum. Your homebrew will be just the opposite. It's not the strength or thickness of the glass thats the problem, but the seal that the lid makes. Once, several years ago, (in the dark ages of sugar beer), I was bottling on a sunday and had already primed before I realized that I didn't have enough caps. I saw no other option and but up about 2 gallons in quart mason jars. I screwed the lids down REALLY TIGHT. It worked. The beer was fine, carbonation was fine, no problems. However as I would not recomend it, as I pointed out the lids of these jars are made to seal well with a vacuum in the jar, not pressure. YMMV Kristine Perez KrisPerez at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by BSUVC.bsu.edu From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Subject: RE: Labels, Labels /Concrete Mill I would also like to see a the Road Dog label. I will gladly scan it if someone sends it to me. (send me email first). Also, it would be cool if we could see some other brewer's setups, and I'm sorry I missed the (satelite broadcast?) of John Palmer's brewery. Maybe a web page could put up a Quicktime movie of this??? Also, Dan Wilson asks: > A question I've never seen addressed, for the colective wisdom. > Everyone tells me to soak off those labels. No one has ever mentioned > why. Private Email works, dwilson3 at email.usps.gov Standing by to be > educated. Dan Wilson It's a matter of personal pride I guess. I have bottled once or twice in a couple of bottles that still had the old label on it, but my homebrew deserves better! ;-) - --------- The concrete mill sounds very interesting. I had some trouble following the plans for it though. Maybe it's just me? Which part does the grinding, and which way does the grain go in and out of the mill? - --Brian Pickerill, Muncie, IN Return to table of contents
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by BSUVC.bsu.edu From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Subject: Swollen bags of LME from James Page I got a couple of cases of Breiss LME from James Page (got the free lb of hops with it). The bags are 3lb, and aren't marked as Breiss, but the original ad said it was Breiss. Subject line sez it though, several of the bags are swollen now, and there was way too much air in the bag (IMHO). All of the bags have air in them and the swollen ones in particular are at least 1/3 air. I will try to use this up quickly, but I'm a bit concerned about it. I haven't called them about it yet. BTW, the bags have not gotten hot or set in the sunlight or anything like that. Also, I brewed with a couple of bags of it already and it seems OK. What do you think about this? It took about a month to get delivery. I was not real happy about that, still, it was the best price I could find, so I didn't expect the BEST possible service. I know that it didn't ship for about 3 weeks after I initially ordered it because I called them after about 3 weeks. If I had it to do over again, I would get the Northwestern and pay a bit more per case. (Std. disclaimers apply, of course.) - --Brian Pickerill, Muncie, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 1995 21:30:36 -0400 From: jhewit at freenet.vcu.edu (Jeff Hewit) Subject: Stopper Stuck in Carboy This morning, in getting ready to bottle my latest batch, I did something really dumb. I was having trouble getting the stopper out of my carboy, and in the course of trying to pry it out with a kitchen knife, I ended up pushing the whole thing into the carboy. It doesn't take much imagination to figure out what my next words were. This didn't cause any problems in racking to the bottling bucket, so I proceeded with the bottling chore, knowing that I had one more thing to do after I cleaned up. I did consider smashing the carboy to retrieve the stopper, but I was determined to try to save both pieces of valuable equipment. Then a thought struck me. After I got off the floor, I took a piece of flexible electical wire (from a lamp cord) and was able to run it through the hole in the stopper. A ran about an additional foot or so beyond the exit hole of the stopper, and using a hook fashioned from a coat hanger, retireved the other end of the wire. Now having both ends of the wire, I was able to pull the stopper out sideways. Both the stopper and carboy managed to survive this generally painful method of removal. I hope none of you suffer this, but just in case you do, this method was rather quick and easy. Brew on! Jeff Hewit Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 07:27:49 -0500 From: blacksab at siu.edu Subject: Isinglass... Is it just me, or did one of the postings yesterday (#1863) seem a little, uh... odd? Hmmm... --Harlan **************************************************************************** * Harlan Bauer ...malt does more than Milton can * * <blacksab at siu.edu> To justify God's ways to man. * * Carbondale, IL --A.E. Houseman * * * **************************************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: 21 Oct 95 09:27:47 MDT (Sat) From: rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) Subject: Re: stuck mead Brian Travis wrote about repitching yeast from a mead that had just finished into a new must: >>The batch that failed to "ignite" is a higher gravity "sweet mead" with 7.5 >>pounds of raspberrys and 20 lbs of "generic" honey (OG 1.135). iaciofano at leds.enet.qntm.com (ED IACIOFANO) responded > Yikes! 1.135?!?!? Your yeast probably croaked from osmotic pressure, > being dumped from a 0.992 gravity liquid to a 1.135 must. Think of how > you'd feel if you dove from air into a pool of wet cement... True, and beyond that, the yeast from the old batch had probably started to shut down. 0.992 is pretty much the end of the fermentation. >...From what > I've learned, yeast (even wine yeast) don't like starting gravities that > high. One way around this might be to acclimate the yeast through > starters of increasing starting gravity, perhaps 1.05 to 1.10 to the > 1.135 must... That might work, but it involves two extra steps where you've got to "keep it clean" (not that contamination is a big problem with meads, but you still have to fuss). Also, consider whether the yeast are really going to be the same in the new mead, _vs_ having mutated after they've fermented the old one to about 13% alcohol. (Personally, since I use dry yeasts for meads, I'd never bother with re- using yeast from a previous batch.) >...Also, a starting gravity of 1.135 puts your potential alcohol > at about 17.5%. You'll be bumping the upper limit of wine yeast alcohol > tolerance. If you could ferment out to dry from 1.135, you'd end up below 1.000, so you'd be well over 18%. The yeast simply won't make it that far, so it's going to end up as a sweet mead. Nothing wrong with that. > You may need more than 1t of yeast nutrient; two or three more > will probably not affect the final flavor... Ed's right...if you can get the yeast working, they'll be busy for a long time and will use up several t of nutrient. Some folks say that yeast hulls will do it; IMO they don't supply all you need. (In Brian's case, the raspberries are a help.) > If all else fails, dillute the must down to 1.100 and ferment. Probably the best idea to get things going. Good general rule is to keep starting gravity of a mead must at/below 1.100. The normal procedure for making "high-gravity" meads is actually not to start at high gravity, but to start at (say) 1.100 and add honey in stages as fermentation progresses. You are likely to be racking more than once, so you can add honey (thinned with water so you can mix it in, of course) at each racking. It compli- cates the question of the actual effective starting gravity, but the yeast will be much happier. - --- Dick Dunn rcd at talisman.com -or- raven!rcd Boulder, Colorado USA ...Simpler is better. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 14:28:45 -0600 (MDT) From: Woodstok <woodstok at rupert.oscs.montana.edu> Subject: Re: Wort chillers, etc. I just had to throw in my two bits on this on-going discussion of wort chillers. I have only been brewing for the last few months, but I the beer i make won't kill anyone ;) Though some people will snub their noses at my technique, it DOES work just fine. For beginners or people who can't/don't buy/make a chiller of some sort, i suggest simply immersing the wort in ice water. Every time i've used this method i get a good cold break. I just put the lid on my boiling pot and stick it in the sink (filled with ice water) and let it sit for about 15 min or so, stirring the water every so often. Then i pour the cooled wort into the carboy and if the water i used to top it off doesn't cool it down enough i just fill the bathtub (or a bucket of some sort) with icewater and let it cool off until it's ready to pitch. It usually only takes me 30-45 min to do this, even less in the winter :), and it's never given me a problem with contamination yet! It's a whole lot better than waiting overnight to cool the wort down. This procedure is by no means better, but it does work just as well so far as i can see. Keep on brewin'! Dave !!!!THIS LIFE IS A TEST!!!! This life is only a test, if this had been an actual life you would have received official instructions on where to go and what to do... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Oct 1995 19:21:47 -0400 From: HOMEBRE973 at aol.com Subject: Re: Green stuff in the Cobra tap, pale malt vs. pilsen malt Ron Moucka asks about the green stuff in his cobra tap. If its not venom, it most likely is mold. I had the same experience with a recent pale ale after having it on tap at about 50 F over a few months. What is the HBD general concensus on using DWC Pilsen malt in place of DWC 2-row pale ale malt for a British or American style ale? I seem to have a lot of the former and none of the latter malts. Andy Kligerman Hillsborough, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 18 Oct 1995 10:30:04 EST From: "Bruce Eckert/Info Systems/Holland Community" <BPE at zonker.hoho.org> Subject: Temp Conversion On 17 Oct 95 07:52:44 EDT Tim Fields <74247.551 at compuserve.com> writes: >Hello all, > >Would someone please post a conversion formula for converting metric temp >into arcane Fahrenheit so I can follow along with some semblance of >usefulness? I'm not about to ask posters to do the conversion for me >:-), so a formula would be helpful. The absolutely correct "C" to "F" formula is: F = C * 1.8 +32 The other way is: F - 32 C = -------- 1.8 Here is a simple "in your head trick": Temperature in "C" times 2, subtract 10%, add 32 Which gives you temp in F. Example: You have a wort that measures 29 degrees C. To get F, 29 * 2 = 58 10% of this is 5.8 (round to 6) 58 - 6 = 52 52 + 32 = 84 F Pitch that yeast! - ---------------------------------------------------------- Bruce Eckert / Director, Info Systems / Holland Community Hospital / Holland Michigan USA bpe at hoho.org - ---------------------------------------------------------- Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 95 21:19:49 +1000 From: CHARLIE SCANDRETT <merino at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Headache in a Bottle I posted a big technical question on bottle conditioning, Rob Lauriston gave me the benefit of his experience by email. Thanks also to Jim Busch who takes the time to reply, >Charlie writes about a passion (obsession?): But Jim, what a magnificent obsession!! Experimentation in the pursuit of excellence. ><1/ Winowing out most of the malt husks ( 75-85%) at crushing. Including them ><in a bag at mash, but excluding them at sparge. I'm looking for a massive ><reduction in phenols. >You going to use a mash filter, filter press, strainmaster, Lambert >filter? A nylon screen over the lauter tun bottom at present. Maybe a Strainmaster clone later. ><5/Hop back, then fast plate heat exchanger cooling.(8-10 minutes) >Oh, this is a 3 gallon brewery? Or a 3 inch ID exchanger? Its two, a 1250 litre and a 3800 litre. Plate exchangers don't have ID, they have a small plate gap. The plates can be configured parallel to run at any flow rate. Carlton United Breweries in Brisbane cool at 8,000 Hl/ hour. Tube type exchangers run into convection/laminar flow problems at anything like 3 inch ID. I am posting two plate exchanger designs soon to The Brewery, one for homebrewers and one for micros. ><6/Flotation tank coldbreak separation over ~16 hours at 0C while aerating. >That exceeds normal floatation by 8-10 hours. At 0C, expect very >high DO levels. Yes, I badly worded that. Aeration for a few hours will float the cold break with vigorous air flow. A further 12 hours is standard for letting the foam settle to a cake for skimming.The current "foaming with aquariun pumps" thread is this same effect. It is simply used commercially to seperate cold break. With air there are saturation limits on DO levels independent of time. <7/ Centrifuge before transfer to fermenter at pitching temperature. >Ive never heard of prefermentation centrifuging. Why? At present my flotation tank/ bright beer tank is a 120 litre inverted SS cone that spins with a washing machine motor. It is thus a centrifuge that compacts anything at the outer circumference. All cold break doesn't float so I give it a spin. Ihave designed a dumping device as a test for larger models. ><f/ The six packs of packaged beer may be centifuged on a continous carosell ><after conditioning, to further compact the sediment if necessary. >Someones paying for all this! I dont see what this last step will do. I'm a medium size businessman Jim, I watch my dollars and product presentation very carefully. If I cannot get stable enough sediment with natural floculation to prevent the last glass from the bottle being cloudy, I intend to centrifuge the bottles to compact it, it is a quite simple continuous machine. I have given the Cooper's ale yeast a spin in a 12G homemade rig for a few munutes., it worked great. It will clarify your beer well for your competitions! The trick is not to burst the yeast cells with centrifical force which can be done at high G's. (Please don't post me for the homemade centrifuge designs, I'll put them in the Brewery too.) >This practice is exactly what Sierra Neveda does, but I dont think they >go this extreme! Which particular practice Jim, bottle conditioning with a seperate yeast, flotation tank, husk seperation? I'd love to know. Their reputation reached me in Oz long before I found the HBD. I still need the answer to my BIG QUESTION; Will the reducing power of the presence of yeast be a greater plus in flavour freshness preservation than the possible production of off flavours by autolysis or shock excretion from thermal abuse? I don't want to spend a year brewing experiments to find out, if expert advice can solve this now. What are European bottle conditioning practices? This whole system is simply a traditional Quality Assurance approach. "Eliminate all variables possible by design and control those that can't be eliminated" The resources for formulation of recipies and hopping and mashing regimes are abundant for the homebrewer. The micro needs to also refine execution of technique to achieve consistency. I don't have people like Rob and Jim's extensive experience in what will have the most impact on quality, so I methodically attack each variable. I'm also concerned about fermentation byproducts that cause "seediness" and headaches some hours after the flavour has been appreciated. Call it after sales service! Anyone know of literature on bottle conditioning chemistry and problems? Charlie (Brisbane, Australia) "Yes Miller, of all the beers that don't taste like anything, yours doesn't taste like anything the best?" Richard Scotty. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 08:26:52 -0700 From: hollen at vigra.com Subject: Re: Sam Adams Triple Bock, aeration >>>>> "Neal" == Neal Christensen <nealc at selway.umt.edu> writes: Neal> Question for Dion: Yesterday you mentioned that you aerate in a Neal> closed corny - so foaming is not a concern. You also mentioned Neal> that George Fix suggests that wort cannot be over-oxygenated at Neal> normal atmospheric pressure. But aren't you oxygenating under Neal> pressure, and could that result in too much oxygen in solution Neal> for some time after releasing the pressure and applying the air Neal> lock? Your concern is very valid. I have no measured scientific evidence to prove or disprove whether I have too much O2. Empirical observation suggests I am not overoxygenating. I pitched last night about 5pm, oxygenated up to 20 psi for about an hour. Let it sit at 20 psi until 8pm, at which time I released pressure and attached blowoff hose and bucket. At 7am this morning I had about 2" of krausen in my blowoff bucket. Do *you* think I am harming the yeast? I have to admit that I pitched 2 liters of very healthy yeast because this is a Belgain Strong Ale with an OG of 1.090, if I damaged the yeast with overoxygenation, I don't believe they would be as active as they are this morning. Neal> Dion, you have the stone and the oxygen tank, so why don't you Neal> set it up in-line. Just lazy I guess. I started oxygenating with just the liquid dip tube and when I got the stone, just using it instead in the same manner was the easiest thing to do. At that time, I had not seen Don Put's in line oxygenator, nor did I have a convenient way of putting the stone in line. I still think that would be a ton of work to put the stone inline. Frankly, what I am doing right now works fantastically, so until I run out of things to do, making permutations is low on my list. Neal> What advantages do you see in aerating for several hours in the Neal> fermenting tank? Over any other method which produces as vigorous ferments as I get, none, it is a matter of style. I do not claim my method is the end-all be-all best way, only *one* excellent way. Any way which suits your brewery and style which achieves as good results is fine in my book. If your way suits your style and brewery, but does not give you quick vigorous fermentation, due to under or over oxygenation, then that is the *only* reason I would say to stay away from it. Neal> On my next batch, I'm going to try the simple method of using a Neal> tube with small holes to pull in air as the wort exits the Neal> boiling pot on the way to the What would be better in the long Neal> term, in-line or in the fermentor? Again, whatever is best for you. The in line tube method works super for Don Put, I don't see why it would not work well for you as well. It certainly would be less expensive than implementing the stone method I use. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck (619)597-7080x119 Email: hollen at vigra.com Senior Software Engineer Vigra, Inc. San Diego, California Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 95 14:56:00 -0400 From: stan.marx at syncomm.com (STAN MARX) Subject: Historic Styles Jim Dipalma writes in HBD 1863: :As to the historical aspect of styles, it's been correctly pointed :out that it's difficult to brew historically accurate reproductions :of original styles, due to the evolution of agriculture and :technology. Al K writes: :>Regarding historical depth to styles, perhaps there isn't and it :>would be quite refreshing to see someone try to take a crack at :>"Original Porter" albeit in the Specialty category. Sure we can't :>buy brown malt anymore, but who says we can't try and make it at :>home? I agree that without a time machine it would be impossible to brew a historically accurate reproduction of and original style (HAROS). But everything I read in this thread states styles are ARBITRARY. Would it be impossible for the AHA to formulate a style definition which would be based on a interpation of historic brewing techniques and ingredients? :Actually, there are some maltsters still producing a product called :brown malt, Hugh Baird and Great Western among them. This malt has :a color rating of about 70L, and I've read it contributes a very :sharp, bitter flavor. I am dubious that this product is :"historically accurate", since it could not be used as a base malt, :which brown malt was in original porters. Hmmm, a sharp bitter flavor... possibly contributing bitterness missing from aged, oxidized hops, no O2 barrier plastic after all. :Another difficulty that would be encountered in trying to :reproduce an original porter is that the strains of hops specified :in documentation of the original recipes no longer exist. The type :of yeast used was apparently never documented, and is a complete :mystery. I think this example demonstrates the problems with using :modern style guidelines as a historical reference. But aren't our modern British hops descendants of these strains, some traits should have survived. Yeast would be an ale strain, most likely multi-strain, with a warm tempature profile. The flavor contribution of the yeast is unknowable but isn't a little artistic license allowable in our craft? Possible style guidelines // feel free to embellish (HAROS) Original Porter style Base of 1/2 British pale ale malt, 1/2 Brown malt Color: Dark brown to black Flavor: Rich malt flavor with assertive bitterness, malt sweetness balanced partially with brown malt bitterness,hop flavor low to medimum, oak flavor ok ('twas aged in wood tuns) (HAROS) Original Scotch ale Base of British / Scottish pale ale malt with some roast barley and peat smoked malt Color: Dark red-brown to black Flavor: High malt flavor, very low hop profile, caramel flavor due to kettle caramelization, some peat undertones (after all the decline of Scotch ale wasn't from OPEC cutting off their supply of natural gas) sweetness due to dextrins, some oxidation ok (from rousing the yeast, rolling the casks around the courtyard), high alcohol warmth with massive body and mouthfeel, low esters and fusels (cold ferment and conditioning) Stan stan.marx at syncomm.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 17:49:15 -0600 From: bratlie at selway.umt.edu (Scott E. Bratlie) Subject: styles So how do I classify My latest? A dry stout with vanilla beans in the secondary, fermented on Wyeast 2112 California Common. The most important question. Is my Vanilla Bean Steam stout ruined? Scott Bratlie Missoula, Montana Bratlie at selway.umt.edu "A nation may lose its liberties in a day and not miss them in a century." Montesquieu Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 1995 23:04:53 -0400 From: Cyruslax at aol.com Subject: Blue Moon recipe? I have just tasted an awesome ale called Blue moon, it is a Belgian white ale. It has a mix of wheat,oats,malt, coriander, and orange peel. If any one can offer a recipe for this fine brew please write me at Cyruslax at aol.com thank you Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 16:31:33 +10 From: "Dave Draper" <david.draper at mq.edu.au> Subject: Someone sent me a greeting card? Dear Friends, a couple of days ago I got this in my email, from a Web service signed WebRat: "Someone likes you enough to have made you a greeting card in my nest. You can find it at http://www.thenet-usa.com/nest/greet/cards/brewer_down_under!1.html. Read it before I eat it." Well I can not get at this document--I keep getting the message "Document contains no data." I have tried leaving off the final period, since I have never seen a URL that ends in one, but get the same message every time. I assume that whoever is behind this came from these pages, so I am asking whoever it is to contact me and let me in on the mystery. Thanks and sorry for the bandwidth, Dave in Sydney "Don't pick your nose." ---Domenick Venezia - --- *************************************************************************** David S. Draper, Earth Sciences, Macquarie University, Sydney NSW Australia Email: david.draper at mq.edu.au Home page: http://www.ocs.mq.edu.au/~ddraper ...I'm not from here, I just live here... Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 07:32:27 -0400 (EDT) From: ejk at bselab.bls.com (Evan Kraus) Subject: New German Malt I was at the local Homebrew shop yesterday and the owner showed me some new malt he had gotten as a sample, but they failed to send any malt analysis sheets. I am looking for some info on it. This is what was on the bag. Mich. Weyermann Bamberg Germany CARAFA He told me it was pils malt but I have my suspissions with the CARAFA printed on the bag. Any info would be appreciated !!! Evan Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 08:43:52 -0400 From: ac051 at osfn.rhilinet.gov (Eric W. Miller) Subject: Toasted Malt/Home Depot/DMHO In HBD #1864 Bruce DeBolt (not Keith Frank) asks about home-toasted malt. I gave toasting a try last month. I used two trays on different racks in the oven. The top tray came out under-toasted. I started to burn some of the grains in the bottom tray. I separated the unburnt grains from the burnt grains in tray two and mashed on the same day I toasted. The unburnt grains were the color of very dark crystal malt, a lot lighter than Special-B. I'd guess somewhere in the mid 100's Lovibond. The resultant beer is sharply bitter (not a nice bitterness like you get from hops). It's the worst beer I've brewed since my first batch (one can of hopped malt extract, one can of corn sugar, pitch yeast taped to top of can...). If I do it again, I'll try toasting the grain a week or so in advance of brewing and I'll discard entirely a tray of malt that burns at all. ___ Harlan Bauer rants about big hardware stores: >Just because Home Despot (sic) doesn't sell it doesn't mean >that it's not available. Sure, maybe you can save a few pennies, but try >asking for advice some time; I had great luck asking for advice at HD a few years ago when I built my wort chiller. The salesman (an occasional homebrewer) steered me toward the right size hose, compression fitting, and faucet adaptor. Works like a champ. Maybe it's because I'm severely plumbing impaired that this seems like a big help to me. ___ Thanks to Dan McConnell for warning about the dangers of DMHO. I've taken steps to eliminate it from my diet, but find myself getting more and more thirsty by the minute. ;-) Eric Miller Newport, RI Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 08:51:00 PDT From: Ray Robert <rayr at bah.com> Subject: Hot side aeration Good Day Brew Collective! I have some questions regarding brewing techniques. I have only been recently enlightened to the phenomenom known as hot-side aeration. After perusing some of the back issues of the hbd, I believe several of my techniques are flawed. Here are some areas which I have been doing where I may be introducing HSA: 1. Pouring runoff from pitcher to boiling pot. 2. Filtering the hot wort through a colander with mesh bag to remove hop particles. 3. Placing the fermentor (plastic) in a larger bucket of chilled water. (Alas no wort chiller & my next purchase) A few items I am not clear on are 1) What are the affects of HSA? 2) What can I do to mitigate the effects? 3) Is there an authoritative source for HSA? (Papazian gave me the ideas for what I am doing now). Thanks Robert Ray rayr at bah.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 09:34:31 EDT From: "Ed Lustenader" <usfmcf9t at ibmmail.com> Subject: Stuck Brew Resolved!!! Thanks to all who responded to my stuck brew problem last week. It turns out that the FG was 1.019. I've never had such a quick fermentation before. I was concerned because of the 2.5hr mash at 160F and thought that might have had something to do with it. As suggested, I racked to the secondary, with a packet of gelatin and will wait for it to clear. Used the yeast for yet another brew, this time an oatmeal stout. I happy to report that the stout is bubbling just fine. Thanks again to all who responded. Regards, Ed Lustenader Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 09:20:10 -0500 From: kit.anderson at acornbbs.com Subject: Maine brewers' festiva Ahh.. October in Maine. Grouse hunting and Geary's Hampshire Ale. (Not at the same time, of course.) The ad says, "Available only while the weather sucks." It has been in the upper sixties and sunny since I can remember. It doesn't suck, but bring on the Hampshire anyway. This year's batch has lots of crystal flavor and a little more hop character than last year. For those within driving distance to the pine tree state, The Maine Brewers' Festival is November 4. See the Maine Brew Page at http://www.maine.com/brew for more info. Kit Anderson Bath, Maine <kit.anderson at acornbbs.com> * Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 09:51:25 +0500 ET From: "Keith Royster" <N1EA471 at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us> Subject: DHMO paranoia In HBD #1864 danmcc at umich.edu (Dan McConnell) warns us about the hazards of Dihydrogen Monoxide. Once again a bare footed, tree hugging, pachoulli smellin' liberal overreacts because a chemical that is otherwise very beneficial to humans is shown to *possibly* have some negative side effects. Before you go an spread such lies you should do a little research, Dan! My experiences have shown DHMO to be very beneficial, if used in the proper concentrations. In fact, I will dare to say that I could not make beer with out it! I have also found that it is essential to the healthy propogation of yeast. DHMO can easily and safely be used by the average homebrewer. While it can be bought in bottles or even delivered directly to your home, I'm sure that many of you are gadget freaks and will be interested in hearing how I make it myself. It is simply chemistry, but will involve a little bit of money in the initial setup. You need to buy a tank of liquid hydrogen and another of liquid oxygen and hook them up to a standard combustion chamber. You then need to build a reservoir for a cooling liquid (water) to submerge the combustion chamber in. The hydrogen and oxygen are mixed in the combustion chamber where they are ignited. My experiences have shown that the proper mixing ratio of the two gases is approximately 2:1 for hydrogen to oxygen. The products of combustion will produce pure gaseous DHMO, which will then be cooled to its liquid state by the blanket of cooling water surrounding the combustion chamber. Have fun with your new gadget! And as always, be careful playing with hydrogen and oxygen, for they can be very dangerous gases! Keith Royster - KRoyster at mro.ehnr.state.nc.us NC-DEHNR - Div. of Environmental Mgmt. Mooresville, NC, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 95 09:49:00 EDT From: "Taber, Bruce" <BRUCE.TABER at NRC.CA> Subject: Mason jar bombs In Monday's HBD, Mike White suggested testing mason jars to see if they are strong enough to hold pressure. He suggested putting carbonated beer in one, tightening the lid, and shaking. DON"T DO IT. I have no idea if mason jars are strong enough or not, but if the jar fails before the lid leaks then the jar will explode and send glass shards everywhere. Maybe they are strong enough, but you won't catch me testing a glass container that wasn't designed to hold pressure. Also, sorry about my last post having too long a line length. I hate when they wrap around like that. I'll be very embarrassed if this one does the same. Bruce taber at irc.lan.nrc.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 08:58:18 CST From: "Glyn Crossno" <CROSSNO at novell2.tn.cubic.com> Subject: Are my Hops Ruined? (AMHR?) A couple of Sunday's ago I picked my final couple of ounces of hops (first year plants), and put them up in the attic to dry. On Monday I got sent out of town on business. Now two weeks later, they are very dry, still green, and smell good. Are my hops ruined? Should I just leave them there for a couple of more years and make a Lambic? Has anybody used or heard of a hammer mill for crushing grains? All the farmers around here have them and I should be able to get one very cheap or free. Or should I continue to piece together a roller mill? Have one for me, as if you need the excuse, Glyn Crossno outside (great brewing weather) Estill Springs TN Crossno at novell2.tn.cubic.com Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society. Mark Twain Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:01:24 est From: Matt_K at ceo.sts-systems.ca Subject: Mason Jars Mike White writes: > However, that is not to say that a Mason jar will not hold the > pressure of carbonated beverage. An idea for a quick test would be > to pour a bottle of beer into a Mason jar, firmly screw on a new lid > (don't re-use old lids as the seals are deformed from use) and shake > the heck out of it. If the jar hold the pressure....well then I > > would assume you could use them for bottling. Well. I've been using Mason jars for about a year now to store yest from my primary. This stuff develops considerable positive pressure and , so far, none of my jars have leaked/exploded. Sure, some of the lid have "boinked" but they still held the seal. Matt Montreal (still in Canada!!) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:15:40 EDT From: "Herb B. Tuten" <HERB at zeus.co.forsyth.nc.us> Subject: Bitter Beer Bread Don't make this mistake..... Friday night I racked my Vanilla Ale to the secondary and capped three bottles of trub to make a yeast starter next week (they're in the fridge). Of course, there was still a healthy amount of the muck at the bottom of the primary. Have you ever looked at all that trub and wondered what other purpose it could serve? So, tempting fate and playing The Frugal Brewer, I started a batch of white bread in the nearby bread machine but instead of yeast and 1 cup of water I added... yep.. a cup of swirled trub. The thing kneaded and rose and baked and at 2 am Saturday I tried a piece. Some of man's greatest discoveries came from strange experiments. This was definately NOT one of them. The bread was bitter. Of course, I now have a great recipe for dog treats....... Cheers, Herb Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 09:19:29 -0600 (CST) From: BOB <RJMONSON at STTHOMAS.EDU> Subject: Mason Jars for Bottling With respect to the recent discussion about Mason Jars and bottling, I can in fact attest to the fact that a Mason Jar will hold Carbonated Beer. I know this mainly due to my unbelievable ability to come out 5 bottles short whenever I am bottling. Due to the fact that I am also frugal, I refuse to waste such a precious commodity as beer, and therefore bottle in whatever pressure vessel looking thing may be at hand. And thus, my wifes antique Mason Jar, foolishly displayed in an overhead (but not out of reach) position, results in a 'wide mouth' vessel to be enjoyed next summer. On a related note, Sam Adams Triple Bock. How to make? Won't the high alcohol content kill the yeast before completion of the fermentation? Bob at home enjoying a brew Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 10:23:30 -0500 From: mcguire at hvsun40.mdc.com (Michael McGuire) Subject: Freezer/ Frig meed Hi all, Help me out with my purchase decision. I'm interested in a fig or freezer. I plan on brewing ales (68 F) and lagers (48 F), and I plan on conditioning my brews at 33 F (serve at 48F). Obviously a chest Freezer has merits of space, but then I'm left without a conditioning space. When you use a Hunter thermostat on a frig. and set the frig side to 48-50 F, what temp can I get on the freezer side?? Is there a good solution or am I doomed to having 2 beer frigs/freezers?? Do you condition/age meed at a reduced temperature like ales and lagers?? Maybe I'll stick to making ales, Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 08:38:20 -0700 From: hollen at vigra.com Subject: Used Corny Keg Prep The following message is a courtesy copy of an article that has been posted as well. There has been a lot of talk about prepping used soda kegs for use in homebrewing and several people have asked me for the writeup I have of how I do it, so I think it is worth posting. I have run this by John Palmer to ensure no cruelty to Stainless Steel is advocated. B-} While I may go overboard with my prep, when I am done, the kegs look very close to brand new (that is given that I do not select kegs with cracked rubber or dents to begin with). How to prepare a used soda syrup keg for brewery use 1) Rinse off outside with hot soapy water and a ScotchBrite pad. 2) Hit any paper labels with a soft brass bristle brush to break up the surface and make them more liquid permeable. If any paper labels are on the rubber, finish them off down to the rubber with the brass brush. For labels on SS, see next step. 3) Finish removing the paper labels with more hot soapy water and a ScotchBrite pad. Don't try to remove any label glue, that is later. 4) Sun dry the keg. 5) Scrape any plastic labels off the SS with a razor blade being careful to not scratch the SS. Also, scrape off any large deposits of glue. 6) Remove any residual glue from the rubber and SS with a cloth and Goo-Gone or CitraSolve. 7) Remove Goo-Gone or CitraSolve with a heavy duty household cleaner. 8) Open and rinse the inside with hot water. 9) Brush out the interior with a hot water solution of 1 TBS TSP per gallon of water and rinse with hot water. Use a nylon bristle brush. 10) Disassemble, brush out the dip tubes and valve bodies with the TSP solution and rinse with hot water. Again, use a nylon bristle brush. 11) If there are any rust spots on the SS, use an oxalic acid based cleaner such as Bar Keeper's Friend or Kleen-King and a Scotch Brite pad to remove the rust. 12) Rinse everything thoroughly with hot water and let stand in the sun to dry. 13) If you needed to use an oxalic acid cleaner, store the keg inside for a week or two to let the natural oxidaton layer reform on the SS. 14) Wipe the rubber top and bottom with a pure silicone spray put on a cloth. 15) Obtain new O-rings and re-assemble. 16) Store with the valve bodies and lid loose and a plastic bag over the top of the keg to prevent dust from entering. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #1865, 10/24/95