HOMEBREW Digest #1958 Sat 10 February 1996

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Janitor

  Building a Home Brewery ("Palmer.John")
  Lactose; Scotch Ale (KennyEddy)
  Hot Siphon (Kyle R Roberson)
  Porter recipe needed ("Gabrielle Palmer")
  re: high temp hoses (BJFABB)
  Critique my Technique\Austin Club\ (Peter J. Naus)
  Big Rock Brewing Magpie Rye Beer (Ted Chilcoat)
  Re: Well aged brew.. (Robert Bush)
  Nylon stocking hop bag (rbarnes)
  Kegging Systems (Steve)
  cider question (Jerry Lee)
  Suds 4.0 bug? (Tom Wenck)
  consensus on ss secondary (Robert Rogers)
  Surge Cans (Aidan "Hairy Hibernian" Heerdegen)
  Special B / Jet sprays ("William G. Rucker")
  How Cold Is That? (walt.meisner)
  Re: well aged brew (Michael A. Genito)
  Trub (Kit Anderson)
  Step mash/Lager malts (Jim Busch)
  All grain equipment questions (Terence McGravey {91942})
  Carboy cleaning (correction) (Brian Pickerill)
  American vs. British brown ale (Barry Blakeley)
  Kudo for Listermann/Request for Beer Bars (Jeff Hewit)
  Re: Malt Extract Recipe for Oatmeal Stout (Spencer W Thomas)
  Contagion-free siphoning ("Julia")
  hose cleaning (Domenick Venezia)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 8 Feb 1996 09:00:55 U From: "Palmer.John" <palmer at ssdgwy.mdc.com> Subject: Building a Home Brewery Denis Barsalo is about to construct every homebrewer's dream, his own brewshed! (of course you keep a rake in the corner for gardening...) Here is how I designed mine, a couple pictures of which are on my homepage. The overall dimensions are 8 x 16 x 8 ft. ie. 4 pieces of plywood. __________________________________________________________ | | | | || | | | | | three | tier | system|| sink| | work | | f | b | m/l | hw || | | bench | | |-------|-------|-------||-----| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | / | | | / door |----------| |-------| | / | fridge | | | / | | | | / | | <- shelves -> | |_/_______________|__________|___________________________| And there are wide windows on three walls, and one of those attic squirrel-cage fans over the boiler platform (b). I have brewed prize winning brews in that shed. 8 x 16 may seem kind of big now, but as soon as you start putting stuff in there you will wish it was even bigger. For me, 16 x16 would probably be about right. John J. Palmer - Metallurgist for MDA-SSD M&P johnj at primenet.com Huntington Beach, California Palmer House Brewery and Smithy - www.primenet.com/~johnj/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 09:59:12 -0500 From: KennyEddy at aol.com Subject: Lactose; Scotch Ale SimonZip sez: > I have a stout fermenting that I will be adding lactose to at bottle time to > make it sweet/milky/creamy. What amount is a good starting point. Lactose was slammed in a recent HBD (last couple weeks) but I have to stand by it for certain applications. I used lactose in my Old Peculier clone a while back. Two ounces in five gallons gave a decent boost to body/mouthfeel; not what you'd call "sweet" but definitely made a difference (yes, there was a faint wimpy sweetness associated with it). As far as the gravity contribution, I would suspect it's around the same as any other non-liquid sugar; that is, around 40 points per pound per gallon. And this stuff is non-fermentable, so the gravity will linger on to your finished product (the whole point). ******************* George Shutelock asks about extract Scottish ale recipes. I have a strong export in the secondary right now -- "strong" is a very appropriate description. For five gallons I used 8 lb light DME, 1 lb 40L crystal and 1/2 lb peated steeped at 155 for 30 min, and 2 oz chocolate for color. Hops were 1/2 oz Chinook for 30 min, 3/4 oz Perle for 20 min, and (on a whim) 1/2 oz Sam Adams Hallertauer Mittelfruh for 5 min. I think the hopping should be somewhat higher for such a big (OK, biggish) beer (maybe some more Chinooks for that spicy smoky character), and use something English for finishing. I used Wyeast European to control the overwhelming estery taste in last year's attempt (it might've been bad yeast too); besides, Scotch ale should be pretty malty. I normally make "smaller" beers in the 40's ot low 50's, so, not thinking, I used my normal 6-1/2 gallon carboy for the primary. Unplanned blowoff happenned soon after. Use a bigger vessel! I racked to secondary after 9 days; it's now got a pretty decent head on it again. It tasted pretty alcoholic but otherwise was good -- nothing a few months in the bottle won't mellow. But cut back a pound or so on the extract if you don't want so much alcohol, and like I said, more hops would be a good idea. Ken Schwartz El Paso, TX KennyEddy at aol.com Days since it went over 70 degrees again -- 1 Normally my garage sits at about 50-55 during the so-called winter; this year I thought it would be fun to augment my two-keg fridge with a couple kegs at "cellar" temperature in the garage. So what do we get? One of the warmest winters on record. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 09:44:06 -0800 (PST) From: Kyle R Roberson <roberson at beta.tricity.wsu.edu> Subject: Hot Siphon I have a CF chiller made from 3/8 in. copper tubing, so I made my siphon from 3/8 in. copper tubing too. I made a loop about the size of my pot for the bottom, then curved it for the riser. After clearing the top of the pot, I bent it over and brought it back down to within six inches of the bottom of the pot where I put another bend to bring the exit horizontal. This is the right height to go into my CF chiller's hot side. I put a 3/8 in. compression union on the pipe to make an air-tight seal. I have been able to make and break this union repeatably without and leaks forming. The loop in the bottom of the pot has saw cuts on the bottom and the open end gets plugged before use. Since I use whole hops, a very good filter bed is formed and I only recirculate about 300 ml before I get clear bitter wort. Before use, I siphon cleaner and sanitizer through the whole set up. Rinse. I then break the union and put foil over the union ends. The siphon part goes into the kettle for the last 20 minutes or so of the boil. I connect the cold water supply and drain to the CF with washing-machine hoses. Because the CF is coiled horizontally and below the level of the liquid surface, I can start the siphon with a gentle suction from a sanitized turkey baster (it only has to go up the copper tube riser and start down. The first few ml have some hot break in them then the hop leaves form a filter bed. A hop bag on the tube might be a good idea for pellet users. Rinse and then siphon cleaner through the set up after use. The siphon part took 3 minutes to make out of the package of tubing, but it took about an hour to cut the slots. A Dremel tool would be much faster. I just used one of the cheap spring-things to make the bends (I used soft-copper tubing that comes in a roll, not hard-copper tubing that comes in straight lengths and looks more red-colored). I also have a siphon that ends in a 2 inch diameter tube instead of the slotted coil. I use it to put fresh hops between two chore-boy copper scrub pads to simulate an English hop-back. The first liter of wort through comes out yellow since it has so much hop resin in it. You get a big dry-hop aroma without hops in the secondary. The wort going through the new hops is still near boiling, then it is flash cooled in the CF trapping much of the aromatics. The unions are standardized, so you can have several different siphons for different effects that can connect to the CF. Kyle Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 1996 13:35:38 EST From: "Gabrielle Palmer" <gabriellepalmer at e-mail.com> Subject: Porter recipe needed Hail Collective! I thought I'd pick your brains and see if someone here had an extract or partial mash recipe for a nice porter. I'm looking for something along the lines of Sierra Nevada or Anchor Steam Porters (a bit sweet, bitter but not overly so, no licorice flavors). Any suggestions? As usual, thanks for my ever-increasing beer knowledge. Gabrielle Palmer Die Design Standards Phone: (313)59-42107 PROFS ID: GPALMER6 Fax: (313)32-24359 internet: gabriellepalmer at e-mail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 12:59:09 -0600 From: BJFABB at ccmail.monsanto.com Subject: re: high temp hoses In HBD 1955, Bill Pemberton <wfp5p at tigger.itc.virginia.edu> asked "What type of hoses do folks use for high temperature stuff (like sparge water, siphon after the boil, etc.)?...". I find that silicone tubing works GREAT; the stuff I have is rated for temps. up to 500 deg. F, and does not get soft at boiling wort temps.; thus, no kinking problems, and no need to use hose clamps. It is also approved for food use, and inert to any cleaner a homebrewer is likely to use. Two problems though, it's expensive, and hard to find (try a scientific supply co.). However, it lasts a very long time. I'd like to see a homebrew supply company carry the stuff. The price gets much better when you buy in excess of 500 ft. Cheers, Brad Fabbri ***** Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 13:42:05 -0600 From: naus at mail.utexas.edu (Peter J. Naus) Subject: Critique my Technique\Austin Club\ Well here goes, my first step out of the shadows... I have been brewing for about a year now, have read several homebrew books, happily acquired a 5gal kegging setup, and of course made some pretty darn good beer. However, to date I have been following a strict Papazian extract brewing process. I would like some suggestions from those out there with experience on how to improve my beer while still maintaining the simplicity in brewing (i.e. please don't tell me to go all-grain). Here's how I've been brewin'... I start with 2 gallons of water in my 4gal. ss pot and turn the stove on high heat. Specialty grains are steeped in a grain bag in water until boiling begins. Upon boiling, grains are removed and discarded and extracts and boiling hops are added. Boil for 55 min. Add finishing hops, boil 5 more min. (Now hold on to something) I pour the hot wort (CAREFULLY) through a sanitized strainer into a sanitized 5gal carboy with 3 gal cold (not boiled) tap water. Then add more water to make a full five gal. Cover top of carboy with Saran wrap. The carboy is in a shallow bucket and ice/water are added to cool wort. When wort is cooled, a pre-swelled liquid yeast pack is dumped in, a sanitized 1" blow off tube is jammed in the top and put in a small pail of water. (I don't use a secondary) After fermentation subsides, 1 1/2 - 2 1/2 weeks late, beer is carefully siphoned off of sediment into 5 gal keg and force carbonated. Well that's it. How bad is it? The object of this post is not for rehashing of old threads (like "silly blow-off tubes revisted"), but to aid all us newbie/intermediate brewers with some advice that we can implement in our current brewing regimen. Private email welcome. (advice, flames, etc) I'll post a summary later. Another quick question while I'm here. Does anybody know phone numbers or email addresses for any Austin, TX hombrew clubs. I can only find their snail mail addresses. Double shot of foaming thanks in advance, Peter (naus at mail.utexas.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 1996 13:47:21 CST From: Ted Chilcoat <tedc at crt.com> Subject: Big Rock Brewing Magpie Rye Beer I recently got a hold of a few bottles of this beer here in Chicago, and I really think that it tastes great! Does anybody have any ideas on a recipe to duplicate this beer? After a quick review of HBD from years past I saw a post about a rye brew from Redhook. It used 10% flaked rye, 5% Munich and 85% Klages (I think). It used Mt. Hood hops for bittering and Yakima Hersbrucker for aroma. Perhaps one of the HBDs Canadian posters closer to the brewery has an idea of what Big Rock is using in this beer. Any feedback ould be appreciated, privately or to the Digest if you think it is appropriate. Thanks Ted Chilcoat e-mail: tedc at interramp.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 22:18:16 +0100 From: bush at shbf.se (Robert Bush) Subject: Re: Well aged brew.. Mike Taber wrote: [snip] >> I have some beer which was brewed at least 10 years ago by my >> ex-wife's grandfather (I don't remember what it is. It is amber in [snip] and Robert Rogers answered: >i read a technical report on bottling technology a few years back. they >determined that the shelf life of beer in bottles in the best of >circumstances was about 6 months. that's from a high tech bottling line. >they reported a micro brewery was doing good if it could bottle beer that >would keep for 2 months. given those rates, it seems like us home brewers >can probably count on our beer going bad just before it has aged properly This, of course, depends on what kind of beer the bottle contains. A stronger beer will keep longer than a weaker beer. Thomas Hardy's can be saved for up to 25 yrs. It will *change* but it won't go bad. Secondly, how has the beer been stored? In brown bottles in the fridge or in a cool cellar? Or in clear or green bottles on a warm shelf by the window? Light (esp. sunlight and fluorescent light) is harmful to beer. It will give it a "skunky" character. Was oxygen introduced when bottling? etc. No, I won't continue, I just wanted to say that it's impossible to say that beer will keep for a year, period or that you can't drink a beer older than 6 months. This xmas I had the Christmas Ale I brewed 2 yrs ago and it was much better now.... >that said, i would say open it and try it. if it tastes bad don't drink it. Makes sense... - ----------------- In the CD-player now: The Orb's Adventures Beyond the Ultraworld =============================================================== = WASSAIL! = = Robert Bush E-mail: bush at shbf.se = = Eskilstuna, SWEDEN = =============================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 96 13:27:47 pst From: rbarnes at sdccd.cc.ca.us Subject: Nylon stocking hop bag Can I use a nylon stocking (you know, the kind women wear) as a hop bag? I use pellet hops (good price in bulk) and would like to minimize the hassles of straining hop residue from the kettle and fermenters. My nylon mesh grain bag has a coarse texture that won't work for pellet hops. My wife has fairly clean feet, but can nylons be sanitized in bleach or iodophor? Are they "food grade?" Can they be boiled without falling apart? TIA- Randy in San Diego Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 1996 16:14:23 -0600 (CST) From: Steve <JOHNSONS at UANSV5.VANDERBILT.EDU> Subject: Kegging Systems I am a new brewer who has recently subscribed to the list. I have read the most recent digest, which included a question from a new brewer concerning keg systems, and had some questions about this topic as well. I recently purchased an EDME brand Brewcraft 10 litre (2 1/2 gal) pressure barrel, which is supposed to be something that can be put in the refrigerator to dispense conditioned beer. Unfortunately, when the item arrived at my local brewer supply store, there was little or no information provided with the barrel, and little or no information provided by the store's manager, who has been relatively unhelpful in the past whenever I've asked him questions. The owner of the store, whom I think may be more knowledgeable, is rarely, if ever, around. Anyway, I'm wondering if anyone has had experience with one of these pressure barrels, which does have some info on the side: safe to 10 p.s.i., and a pressure cap with a safety valve fitted in the cap, and a tap on the bottom. 1) Is this something that, once filled, will it be extremely foamy, especially if I add all of my sugar to the entire batch prior to bottling and kegging? 2) Does it need to be filled nearly to the top, like a bottle of beer, in order to get an appropriate amount of CO2 and pressure built up? 3) Will it suffer in the conditioning process if it is only filled, say, halfway, and have a relatively large amount of air present while it conditions? 4) Since there is no CO2 cartridge system employed in this pressure barrel, will it go flat if it is not all consumed in a relatively short period of time once it begins to be dispensed? And how much time might that be? I can see the advantages of using it for a party situation, but would like to try it out before a party and savor what will amount to nearly 1/2 of a batch of 5 gallons of good homebrew. Hope someone can help. If not, any suggestions on who might be a helpful person to call? EDME distributorships in the US? Other homebrew stores that sell them? Thanks, Steve "Rocky" Johnson Nashville, TN I guess if all else fails, I should just follow the mantra...relax, and you know the rest! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 15:48:53 -0800 From: jlee at esd.ray.com (Jerry Lee) Subject: cider question >Glenn Heath... >Does anyone know how to make a sweet hard cider? When I tried one it >automatically went dry since the fermentation eats the sugar. I am not >fond of sweet and low or equal, so I don't want to add either to my >completed product. Adding sugar to the final product just boosts the >carbonation without sweetening it. I chill the cider to near freezing, then filter with a .5 micron filter. This takes out the yeast, you could probably use sugar then. I don't take any chances with the fermentation starting over so I use lactose instead of sugar for sweetening. It will not ferment out. I have also found that most people like my ciders with a little more apple flavor so...I add more apple concentrate, right from the frozen tube. This adds sugar and flavor. It sometimes take several trys to get the right balance but you can always add more, its hard to take it back. You can then force carbonate for a sparkling cider or (freeze? for...) or just serve as is. ;-) OK..I can already see trouble starting as I review this message...so I'll explain ahead of time: You can freeze it to pour off the richly flavored alcohol. Then when the rest of it thaws you have a cider lite! Now you can read between the lines if you want. ===================================================== ~~~~~ / \ //\\\\\ / Jerry D. Lee, Jr. | SEPG Methods & Tools Chairman / {| ~ ~ |} / Raytheon ESD | E-Mail : jlee at eng.esd.ray.com \ | ^ | / 6380 Hollister Ave | Tel : 805-967-5511 ext2306 \ \ = / \ Goleta, CA 93117 | Fax : 805-964-9185 _/ - --/\-/\-- \ \ \/^\/ \+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=| Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 18:22:34 -0500 (EST) From: Tom Wenck <twenck at clark.net> Subject: Suds 4.0 bug? I believe I have discovered a significant bug in Suds 4.0 and would like to hear some comments. Several beers I formulated using Suds 4.0 came out with a much lighter color than expected. When I looked into this I observed that no matter what setting I used for mash efficiency, Suds calculated the same color. This seems intuitively wrong. If two brewers follow the same recipe and one obtains an efficiency of 90% and the other obtains 70%, it seems clear <g> the first brewer's beer will have a darker color, as well as a higher gravity. If I introduce this factor in by hand (multiplying the Suds' predicted color by my mash efficiency) it comes out in the ballpark. Comments? Tom Wenck <twenck at clark.net> Frederick, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 00:59:45 -0500 From: bob at carol.net (Robert Rogers) Subject: consensus on ss secondary thanks to all who had suggestions. my original query was about using a 5 gal stock pot as a secondary fermenter, and could silicon caulk be used to seal it. most people suggested either glass carboys or corneilius kegs. the reasons for my question were: the closest _glass_ carboys are 50 miles away (i finally went and got a 6.5 gallon one for $19), the stock pot is only about $15, it is un-breakable, easy to clean, can be used for other things, and a good shape for my fridge...so, does anyone know if silicon caulk will cause flavors, or is there something else i can use? bob rogers bob at carol.net "Why, Fritz, alcohol is a gift from God..." --young Fritz Maytag's Mom Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 96 17:09:55 EDT From: Aidan "Hairy Hibernian" Heerdegen <aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au> Subject: Surge Cans Full-Name: Aidan "Hairy Hibernian" Heerdegen | So last night I enjoyed my first taste of Murphy's Irish Stout | from the 16 oz. 'Drought Style" can. Ummmmmmm creamy......... *snip* | Anyone know the physics of this beautiful phenomena. Try: http://rschp2.anu.edu.au:8080/aidan/brewing/guinness/guinness_can.html I imagine we'll get lotsa of response for this one .. practically an FAQ .. | I have a stout fermenting that I will be adding lactose to at | bottle time to make it sweet/milky/creamy. What amount is a | good starting point. I had a recommendation of 2-4 oz. *snip* | Also, what would happen to the finished product if someone added | 9 oz. of lactose to the primary of a 5 gal. stout batch with an | OG of 1.064? Too much lactose will give you a "cheesy" taste - I found this out the hard way. I used 100g (from memory) which is approx 4 oz. I'd try 2 oz to start with if I was you. Cheers Aidan - -- e-mail: aidan at rschp2.anu.edu.au, http://rschp2.anu.edu.au:8080/aidan Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 96 07:26:06 EST From: "William G. Rucker" <ruckewg at naesco.com> Subject: Special B / Jet sprays First, my question. I am making a partial mash scotch ale next week and I am looking to match a MacAndrews Scotch ale. The caramel flavor is what I am after. What is the best method to attain this? Is using a dark crystal like Special B etc, a good idea, or is there a better way? Any suggestions/ comments would be appreciated. Also, is it better to steep these grains (crystal malt), for any style, or to mash them normally with all the other grains? To the person who asked about water hammers using the jet spray bottle washer,(my apologies for not remembering to get your name) I usually try to keep the pressure going into the bottle or carboy at a point where it does the job and is not high enough to cause a hammer. I haven't had a problem since I started this. I hope this isn't too simiplistic of a solution but it works for me! Bill ruckewg at naesco.com brewzer at peanut.mv.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 1996 08:10:57 EST From: walt.meisner at e-mail.com Subject: How Cold Is That? - ---- Mail Item Text Follows Subject: How Cold Is That? I'm thinking that the -30 degree beer references allow me to post this to the group. I hope that there's enough enjoyment to justify the "bandwidth". I also hope that I've left enough of the attributes intact to give credit where it's due. Wallie Meisner Greensboro, NC........................................................... news:4f7tor$71l at news.bu.edubmac at bu.edu (Brendon McNamara) wrote: > >---------- Forwarded message ---------- > HOW COLD IS IT? > An annotated thermometer > (degrees Fahrenheit, then Celsius) > > +50 / +10 > * New York tenants turn on the heat > * Wisconsinites plant gardens > > +40 / +4 > * Californians shiver uncontrollably > * Wisconsinites sunbathe > > +35 / +2 > * Italian cars don't start > > +32 / 0 > * Distilled water freezes > > +30 / -1 > * You can see your breath > * You plan a vacation in Florida > * Politicians begin to worry about the homeless > * Wisconsinites eat ice cream > > +25 / -4 > * Boston water freezes > * Californians weep pitiably > * Cat insists on sleeping on your bed with you > > +20 / -7 > * Cleveland water freezes > * San Franciscans start thinking favorably of LA > * Green Bay Packers fans put on T-shirts > > +15 / -10 > * You plan a vacation in Acapulco > * Cat insists on sleeping in your bed with you > * Wisconsinites go swimming > > +10 / -12 > * Politicians begin to talk about the homeless > * Too cold to snow > * You need jumper cables to get the car going > > 0 / -18 > * New York landlords turn on the heat > * Sheboygan brats grilled on the patio, yum! > > -5 / -21 > * You can hear your breath > * You plan a vacation in Hawaii > > -10 / -23 > * American cars don't start > * Too cold to skate > > -15 / -26 > * You can cut your breath and use it to build an igloo > * Miamians cease to exist > * Wisconsinites lick flagpoles > > -20 / -29 > * Cat insists on sleeping in your pajamas with you > * Politicians actually do something about the homeless > * People in LaCrosse think about taking down screens > > -25 / -32 > * Too cold to kiss > * You need jumper cables to get the driver going > * Japanese cars don't start > * Milwaukee Brewers head for spring training > > -30 / -34 > * You plan a two-week hot bath > * Pilsener freezes > * Bock beer production begins > * Wisconsinites shovel snow off roof > > -38 / -39 > * Mercury freezes > * Too cold to think > * Wisconsinites button top button > > -40 / -40 > * Californians disappear > * Car insists on sleeping in your bed with you > * Wisconsinites put on sweaters > > -50 / -46 > * Congressional hot air freezes > * Alaskans close the bathroom window > * Green Bay Packers practice indoors > > -60 / -51 > * Walruses abandon Aleutians > * Sign on Mount St. Helens: "Closed for the Season" > * Wisconsinites put gloves away, take out mittens > * Boy Scouts in Eau Claire start Klondike Derby > > -70 / -57 > * Glaciers in Central Park > * Hudson residents replace diving boards with hockey >nets > * Green Bay snowmobilers organize trans-lake race to >Sault Ste. Marie > > -80 / -62 > * Polar bears abandon Baffin Island > * Rhinelander Birkebeiner > * Girl Scouts in Eau Claire start Klondike Derby > > -90 / -68 > * Edge of Antarctica reaches Rio de Janeiro > * Lawyers chase ambulances for no more than 10 miles > * Minnesotans migrate to Wisconsin thinking it MUST be >warmer > > -100 / -73 > * Santa Claus abandons North Pole > * Wisconsinites pull down earflaps > > -173 / -114 > * Ethyl alcohol freezes > * Only Door County cherries usable in brandy Manhattans > > -297 / -183 > * Oxygen precipitates out of atmosphere > * Microbial life survives only on dairy products > > -445 / -265 > * Superconductivity > > -452 / -269 > * Helium becomes a liquid > > -454 / -270 > * Hell freezes over > > -456 / -271 > * Illinois drivers drop below 85 MPH on I-90 > > -458 / -272 > * Incumbent politician renounces a campaign contribution > > -460 / -273 (Absolute Zero) > * All atomic motion ceases > * Wisconsinites allow as to how it's getting a mite >nippy > > >------------------------------ > >"Jokes are grievances." > >Marshall McLuhan (1911-80), Canadian communications >theorist. Remark, June >1969, at American Booksellers Association luncheon, >Washington, D.C. Quoted >in: Sun (Vancouver, 7 June 1969). > > > > \\|// > (ooo) THE ORACLE SERVICE HUMOR >MAILING LIST >~~~~~~~~~oOOo~(_)~oOOo~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ >~~~~~~~~~~~~ > >Steve Willoughby's E-mail: SUBSCRIPTION: >--------------------------- ----------------- >oracle at synapse.net To subscribe to the >Oracle's >[a personal mail address nuked >just in case] mail list, send a message >with only > the word SUBSCRIBE in the >body (not > the subject) of the >message to: >WWW Site >humour-list-request@ lists.synapse.net >------------- >http://www.synapse.net/~oracle/Contents/HumorArch.html ............................................................................. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 08:49:25 -0500 From: genitom at nyslgti.gen.ny.us (Michael A. Genito) Subject: Re: well aged brew Robert wrote: Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 00:16:43 -0500 From: bob at carol.net (Robert Rogers) Subject: re: well aged brew.. [snip] > I have some beer which was brewed at least 10 years ago by my > ex-wife's grandfather (I don't remember what it is. It is amber in [snip] i read a technical report on bottling technology a few years back. they determined that the shelf life of beer in bottles in the best of circumstances was about 6 months...a micro brewery was doing good if it could bottle beer that would keep for 2 months. given those rates, it seems like us home brewers can probably count on our beer going bad just before it has aged properly :) :) that said, i would say open it and try it. if it tastes bad don't drink it. - --------------------------------------------------- I agree with Bob - open it and be your own judge. The oldest beer I've made and later tried was a little over 2 1/2 years old - one was a Bock and one a Stout. Both aged very well, and retained a great taste, texture, head, etc. I also had a cream ale over 1 1/2 years old that was very good. My grandfather and great uncles used to make wine, some of which we tried many years later. Some of the same batch would be great, while other bottles were vinegar. IMHO, the preservation of the beer has more to do with how well a seal the bottle has, how little it was exposed to light, and the extremes of temperature or dramatic temperature changes it may have experienced. Add to this how often it is disturbed by motion, and you have all the reasons why an old wine can be either good or bad. Given a great expanse of years, the type of beer may also affect its aging properties, and my uneducated guess would be that the darker the beer, the more likely it will age well. Happy brewing! Michael A. Genito, Director of Finance, Town of Ramapo 237 Route 59, Suffern, NY 10901 TEL: 914-357-5100 x214 FAX: 914-357-7209 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 09:03:56 -0500 From: Kit Anderson <kit at maine.com> Subject: Trub I asked: >I normally drain the chilled wort off the hot AND cold break. Does the hot >break go back into solution as the wort chills? Eric Bush replied: >You mean if you poured the hot break back into the wort again? If you >separate them (wort and trub) I don't see how it could go back into >solution. No. No. After boiling, I put the wort chiller in the kettle. Hot and cold break are in the bottom of the kettle. What I want to know is, as the wort cools, does the hot break dissolve back into the wort? Some people separate the wort from the hot break before cooling. Kit Anderson Bath, Maine <kit at maine.com> The Maine Brew Page http://www.maine.com/brew Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 09:22:16 -0500 (EST) From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov> Subject: Step mash/Lager malts Fredrik Stahl writes: <The idea is to use two rests <at 60C and 70C to control fermentability. For a less modified malt (i.e. <pilsener or lager malt) you need to use a protein rest at 50C because of <the high protein content. <To repeat George Fix mash scedules: <Lager malt (low modification): 50-60-70C <Pale malt (high modification): 40-60-70C Can someone refer me to a lager malt that is low in modification and if possible what is the Kolbach index? Jim Busch Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 09:34:47 -0500 From: Terence McGravey {91942} <tpm at swl.msd.ray.com> Subject: All grain equipment questions Greetings HBD Collective, I am getting ready for the switch to all grain and right now I'm trying to figure out what I need/want for equipment. I checked the archives and the general concensus is that the Rubbermaid Gott beverage cooler with a false bottom is the way to go for a mash/lauter tun. My question comes on which size Gott cooler I should go with. I now do 5 gal. batches but would like to have the opportunity to do 10 gal batches (I want to get my valuable time's worth if I'm doing all grain recipes). 1. If I go with the 5 gal cooler, would I be able to fit all the grain in there for a 10 gal batch ? 2. If I go with the 10 gal cooler, will the grain bed be to shallow (because of the larger diameter of the cooler) to provide adequate filtration of a 5 gal batch ? 3. Is there a Phil's Phalse Bottom to fit the 10 gal cooler as well as the 5 gal cooler ? 4. Is it easy and non cooler destructive to put a suitable spigot that can control my runoff flow in place of the standard spigot ? Your inputs are greatly appreciated by posting or e-mail. ********************************************************** Terry McGravey | Methuen, Mass. | "TO BREW...AND TO SERVE" tpm at swl.msd.ray.com | ********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by BSUVC.bsu.edu From: 00bkpickeril at bsuvc.bsu.edu (Brian Pickerill) Subject: Carboy cleaning (correction) I said: >PS. I never had a problem cleaning carboys after using them for primaries >with blow off. I've only done it a few times, but it rinsed right out with >dish washing detergent and warm water. No problem. Sorry, I meant to say _Dishwasher_ powder (Electro-sol, Calgon, B-Brite, ect. NOT the liquid stuff like Joy, Palmolive, etc...) Oh, and I don't have a carboy brush at all, either. Never needed one. I do use a bottle washer (spray jet) though. - --Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 96 08:01:35 mst From: BlakeleB at den.disa.mil (Barry Blakeley) Subject: American vs. British brown ale Greetings, eh! To this point I have been unable to find specific information relating to American brown ales. I'm trying to brew an extract batch similar to Beavertail Brown Ale (Hubcap - Vail, CO) or Pyramid Best Brown (Hart - Seattle, WA). The trouble is there are plenty of Newcastle-type recipies available, and without starting a wicked styles debate, I need to know what differentiates the two. Please respond privately, and if I receive enough responses.... %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% "Those aliens from the 8th dimension? I'm looking at them right now!" Barry Blakeley blakeleb at den.disa.mil Denver, Colorado %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 10:48:01 -0500 From: jhewit at freenet.vcu.edu (Jeff Hewit) Subject: Kudo for Listermann/Request for Beer Bars I recently purchased the Phil's Mini Lauter Tun and a 7" Phil's sparger. I am slowly, but steadily, on my way from extract to partial-mash to all-grain. Both items worked fine, but I managed to lose one of the little silicon plugs used to hold down the phalse bottom and close the ends of the sparger. I wrote to Listermann, asked for some more plugs, and included a $5 check for their trouble. Within a week, they sent me a dozen plugs, and returned my check. I thought that was great customer service, and wanted to share this experience with the rest of you. Now, I figure I can brew 12 more batches before I need more plugs. By the way, if the guy in charge of Listermann is named Dan, who is Phil? On a fairly regular basis, someone posts that he/she is traveling to a particular city/area and wants to know where the good beer places are. I can appreciate being out-of-town, going into a nice looking place, and learning that their idea of a high-end beer is Michelob. While the members of HBD are a good resource for this type of information, there is another source for those with access to the World Wide Web - the Real Beer Page: http://realbeer.com/ One of the features is the "Brew Tour." It's a database of breweries, brew pubs and beer bars. You can search by city, state, zip code, area code, or name. I have not done any extensive searching, but it seems to be a good starting place when looking for a good place to quench one's thirst when on the road. - -- - ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Jeff Hewit Midlothian, Virginia Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 09 Feb 1996 10:48:40 -0500 From: Spencer W Thomas <spencer at engin.umich.edu> Subject: Re: Malt Extract Recipe for Oatmeal Stout You have to mash the oatmeal. But, you can do a "mini-mash" quite easily. Buy a pound of "6-row" malt. If your supplier doesn't have a mill you can use to crush it, then switch suppliers. :-) You can crush it with a rolling pin, but it's tedious. Mix the malt and the oatmeal (up to 1/2 pound) in a large pan (3 quart capacity should work), and add 1 1/2 quarts of water at 170F. Mix well, and measure the temperature. If it's not between 150 and 160F, then heat it gently with stirring until it is. Remove from the heat, put the lid on, and wrap the whole thing in a towel or two for insulation. Let it sit for an hour. Strain out the liquid, then add another 1 1/2 quarts of hot (170-180F) water, stir well, but gently, and strain again. Use this liquid as the base for your extract batch (with however much water you need to add). You can also mix in the roasted barley and other specialty grains with the mash, if you want. You will need more water, at the rate of about a quart per pound, and you might need a bigger pot. =Spencer Thomas in Ann Arbor, MI (spencer at umich.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 10:58:49 -0500 EST From: "Julia" <julia at global-tech.com> Subject: Contagion-free siphoning Timothy Kelsey wrote: > I need some advice on how best to separate hot trub > from wort. I use an 8 gallon enamel canning kettle for a > brew pot, and an immersion wort cooler. Is it better to: > > 2) forget installing the spigot, and simply whirlpool and > siphon the cooled wort into the carboy? > > BUT: how do I start such a siphon without contaminating > the wort? When siphoning from a carboy I usually use a > carboy cap and sanitized milk jug (like suggested in > Brewing Techniques several issues ago). I had used > Charlie Papazian's "water in the siphon hose" technique > previously, but am leery of using it with unfermented > wort. Needless to say, sucking on the siphon hose is > also out. At a flea market recently I purchased a siphon hose which seemed sort of cool. It has a copper doo-hickey on the end that goes in the liquid, with some kind of valve arrangement in it (you can tell I am really knowledgeable about the technical details!). Anyway, the idea is, you put the end with the doohickey into the liquid (wort, gasoline, aquarium water, whatever), and shake it up and down in the liquid. The doohickey acts like a little pump, and pushes the liquid up into the tube- the other end of the hose does not even need to be lower than the end in the liquid! No sucking on the hose (really an advantage when siphoning gas!), no fooling around with other liquid in the hose and risking contamination of the wort. I haven't used mine yet, but I saw it demonstrated, and was impressed enough to get one. I think I paid around $10 for it.... if anyone is interested, e- mail me for more info. Julia Libertarian, reconstructionist Heathen in the Northern European tradition and- out, loud & proud! ==================================================================== All rights explicitly reserved, without prejudice, as per UCC 1-207. Julia Libertarian, reconstructionist Heathen in the Northern European tradition and- out, loud & proud! ==================================================================== All rights explicitly reserved, without prejudice, as per UCC 1-207. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 08:24:32 -0800 (PST) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> Subject: hose cleaning In HBD #1957 michael at mcdata.com suggests using a trumpet or trombone brush to clean plastic hoses. My guess is that such brushing will scratch the inside of the hose providing places for gunk to stick and critters to hide. I have been following the hose cleaning thread and agree with those that simply rinse their hoses well after use and NEVER let a hose sit uncleaned. Once gunk dries or sticks on the inside of a hose forget it, toss it, replace it. Hang clean wet hoses with the openings down and before use soak them in iodophor for 10-20 minutes. Hoses treated like this will (in my opinion) last longer than those that have been brushed. In an earlier HBD someone suggested sealing plastic hoses filled with iodophor for storage. In my experience long term exposure to iodophor does "funny" things to vinyl. It gets "greasy", so do a test on a couple inches before commiting all your vinyl to this type of storage. Also, remember that hoses have a limited lifetime and WILL need to be replaced periodically depending on frequency of use. I replace my hoses and canes every 2 years whether I have a problem or not. How do I track my hoses? Use a black indelible marker (lab marker) to date them. Finally, I will be purchasing a trumpet brush myself because I can think of a lot of other uses, racking canes in a pinch (generally I threat racking canes like hoses), lauter manifolds, keg dip tubes, copper coils, aeration tubes, etc. Bottoms up! Domenick Venezia Computer Resources ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com - ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Fri, 9 Feb 1996 08:06:28 -0800 (PST) From: Domenick Venezia <venezia at zgi.com> To: michael at mcdata.com Subject: hose cleaning Michael, By using a brush on the inside of a plastic hose you will scratch the walls of the hose and provide places for gunk to stick and critters to hide. My guess is that if hoses are rinsed well immediately after use and hung up wet, that is, NEVER let an unrinsed hose dry, then they will last longer than if you brush them each time. It is a fact of life that plastic hoses need to be replaced periodically depending on how much you brew. Cheers, Domenick Venezia Computer Resources ZymoGenetics, Inc. Seattle, WA venezia at zgi.com Return to table of contents