Homebrew Digest Wednesday, 14 August 1996 Number 2147
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
HBD Policies ((Shawn Steele))
Censorship on HBD (tgaskell at syr.lmco.com)
[none] (Greg Hawley)
Sanitizing bottles (or lack thereof) ((George De Piro))
Re: Have a beer on me -- That is correct (Don Trotter)
Counterclockwise Whirlpooling (Jim Youngmeyer)
RE: Oktoberfest/Scotch ale ((George De Piro))
Re: Recipe Design (Bill Rust)
Re: Hopping Concentrated Extract Brews / Infected Keg / ScotOberfest (Dave Greenlee)
Blue Whale Ale (again?) ((pfeine))
re: recipe formulation ((William P Giffin))
Beer Clip-Art Request!! (KRAUSG)
censorship (Gregory King)
malt screens (M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (bayerospace at mac))
Scottish vs Oktoberfest ("William D. Knudson")
Stovetop brewing ((Ed, Quantum PE (508) 770-2251))
NG Ring Burner source (Rick Seibt)
Dishwasher Safe ("John Penn")
Munich Malt (Kyle R Roberson)
Iodophor in Australia (Miguel de Salas)
Secondary Fermentation ("Pierre A. Dumont")
Thermoelectric Coolers (KennyEddy at aol.com)
Hops'n'Dogs (Scott Dornseif)
Irish Moss Usage (Brian S Kuhl)
Hopping Canned Extracts ("O'Mahoney, Larry")
Errors-To: bacchus at aob.org (orion at mdc.net)
Errors-To: bacchus at aob.org (orion at mdc.net)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: shawn at aob.org (Shawn Steele)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 11:58:52 -0600
Subject: HBD Policies
The policies for the HBD seem to include the idea that we can disagree,
but we should preferably be nice about it. If someone really needs to
slam someone else, a.) please think twice, and b.) please send it via
private e-mail and keep it there.
- - shawn
Digest Janitor
Return to table of contents
From: tgaskell at syr.lmco.com
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 96 08:55:55 EDT
Subject: Censorship on HBD
I recall recently, about the time that the AOB _volunteered_ to publish
the HBD, the deeply held concerns that the digest might get censored.
In the wake of NOKOMAREE postings, there are a large number of calls
for just such censorship. IMHO, all censorship is a VERY BAD THING.
Let's use that page down key before we resort to censorship or other
tyrannical practices in this forum.
Regarding the recent rantings: please print out a copy and review the
rules of netiquette before you start to type when your blood gets to
boiling. This is a hobby and is supposed to be enjoyable.
Cheers,
Tom Gaskell tgaskell at syr.lmco.com Hog Heaven Homebrewing Clayville, NY, USA
P.S. Marty, hang in there and relax, dude. I always learn some thing from
your posts, even if it is just why I always get the bad radio station. 8^)
Return to table of contents
From: Greg Hawley <gregh at Plexus.COM>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 07:57:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [none]
> From: "Little, Wayne" <LittleW at od31.nidr.nih.gov>
> Date: Thu, 08 Aug 96 09:40:00 edt
> Subject: Hefe Weizen
As Wayne Little said:
> I have been attempting what is perhaps impossible: to make a decent
> extract hefe weizen. Has anyone perfected a recipe they would be
> willing to share. I am looking for that light colored, finely
> carbonated, slightly funky character that describe some of the classics
> I've had at various brewpubs. I have played with wheat: barley ratios
> and yeast strains, but have not found a combination that is
> satisfactory. What is the best pitching volume, fermentation temp? Is
> Ireks a decent extract?
- ----
Yes, you can make an excellent Hefe-Weizen! A colleague and I made an
excellent Hefe Weizen earlier this summer. The beer went over very well
at our company's picnic. Perhaps cut down a little on the extract (the
gravity was a little high for the style). It can also be argued that the
beer was just a smidgeon hoppy (reduce by perhaps 25 to 50 percent). The
final gravity was quite high, but this was not detrimental. As a whole
the extract grain ratio ended up (I think) to be about 50% barley and 50%
wheat. You could call Northwestern Extract (Brookfield Wisconsin, I
believe) and ask them their ratios. Excellent vanilla, clove and banana
tones abound. Here's the recipe:
Ingredients (for 5 gallons)
4 Pounds Weizen Dry Malt Extract (Northwestern)
2 Pounds Light Dry Malt Extract (Northwestern)
1/2 Pounds Crushed Munich Malt (20 L0)
1 Pound Crushed Wheat Malt
1/2 Pounds Crushed Belgian Pils Malt (DeWolf-Cosyn)
5 gallons of Menasha, Wisconsin Water (fairly hard)
2 tsp. CaCO2 Crystals
1 tsp. Burton Water Crystals
1 ounce Perle Hops (7.7 percent Alpha Acids)
1 ounce Willamette Hops (3.9 percent Alpha Acids)
Wiehenstephen Wheat Yeasts (Wyeast #3068)
Starting Specific Gravity: 1.057,
Finishing Specific Gravity: 1.019,
Alcohol by Volume: 4.9 percent
Procedure
Add crystals to about 3 gallons of water in brew pot. Bring water to 155
0F. Place crushed grains in grain bag. Steep in brewpot (maintaining
temperature) for 50 minutes. Sparge (rinse) grains with 2 quarts of 148 0F
water. Bring water to boil. Add malt extract. Slowly return water to
boil. As water boils off brewpot as steam, continue adding water to keep
water level constant. Boil for 10 minutes. Place Perle hops in a hop bag
and add to boil. Boil for 35 minutes. Add half of Willamette hops to hop
bag. Boil for 10 minutes more. Add last half of Willamette hops to hop
bag. Boil for another 5 minutes. Remove heat. Chill wort (unfermented
beer) with immersion chiller. Transfer to fermenter. Aerate by shaking.
Pitch yeast. Wait 1 week. Transfer beer to secondary fermenter. Wait 2
weeks. Siphon to keg. Carbonate and serve.
- ---gregh
Greg.Hawley at plexus.com, (414) 751-3285
For more information browse http://www.athenet.net/~dang/gregh/Welcome.html
Vanquishing the heart of evil through better software engineering.
4 Simple Machines of the Information Age: Identity, Circle, Copy and Correlate
Return to table of contents
From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 08:22:31 -0700
Subject: Sanitizing bottles (or lack thereof)
Nathan writes that he wasn't as anal about sanitizing his bottles,
partly because he has read here about people just washing and filling.
Now he has an infection. To answer Nathan, yes it's OK to taste it
from a health standpoint (i.e., it won't kill you). It may not be a
pleasant experience, though.
I would like to warn others to not be so maverick about sanitation. I
have also done the old "just blast it with hot water before filling"
routine, and haven't had any problems, but I only do that with
counter-pressure bottled beer intended for relatively quick
consumption.
There is bacteria in most (if not all) drinking water. Most of it
won't do well in beer, but I guess you could get unlucky, especially
if you have your own well.
It's important to carefully inspect each bottle to make sure there is
nothing in it (mold, etc.) before any sanitizing method. I don't even
bother trying to clean bottles that are moldy, it's not worth my time.
If you have a "beer safe" water supply, and have never had these
problems despite being "maverick," continue as always. But if you're
unsure, why take the chance?
Have Fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
Return to table of contents
From: Don Trotter <dtrotter at imtn.tpd.dsccc.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 08:26:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Have a beer on me -- That is correct
included from personal e-mail:
>
>Al K. writes in HBD:
>>Don writes in his mystery recipe:
>>>4 lb Victory or Dark Munich [ is much different ]
Absolutely right. I just typed it in from memory. My mistake. Use
Biscuit or Victory, not Munich.
If you all don't mind, I would rather leave the name calling out of
this publication. I read this for information, not to see flames. If
I want to see flames, I'll go to alt.evil; they're rather amusing at
times.
don
Return to table of contents
From: Jim Youngmeyer <youngmeyer at POSC.org>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 08:29:52 -0500
Subject: Counterclockwise Whirlpooling
This may be the dumbest question ever posted to the HBD. I recently acquired
a two tier converted Sanke keg brewing system. The boil pot is plumbed so that
you can recirculate the wort in a counterclockwise direction. This serves the
dual purpose of maximizing immersion wort chiller cooling efficiency and
whirlpooling hot/cold break into the center of the keg. I know that in the
northern hemisphere water goes down the drain in a clockwise pattern, and in
the southern hemisphere it drains counterclockwise. Here's the dumb question.
Since I am in the northern hemisphere, will the counterclockwise motion of my
whirlpool be offset or disturbed by the gravitational/cosmological tendancy
of fluids to drain in the opposite direction? What say you, all you
astrophysicists/brewers?
Jim Youngmeyer
Houston, TX
youngmeyer at posc.org
Return to table of contents
From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 09:45:07 -0700
Subject: RE: Oktoberfest/Scotch ale
There's no way I couldn't respond to Dave Greenlee's post!
Dave writes in wondering about the differences between Oktoberfests
and Scotch ales. He answers himself pretty well in his own post!
First, the fact that Oktoberfest is a lager and Scotch ale is, as the
name suggests, an ale, is a pretty huge difference! (I won't get into
it)
Another big difference is in the malt profile. Caramel and toastiness
are very different flavors. One of the most common flaws in
homebrewed Oktoberfest is that the malt flavor is caramel instead of
toast. I tasted the two Oktoberfests contending for the final round
at the BBC World Homebrew Contest two weeks ago, and they were both
flawed in this way.
Scotch ale, on the other hand, should have caramel notes. I've read
that some brewers caramelize a small volume of the wort and add it
back to the boil to intensify this flavor.
I'm not an expert about Scotch Ales, but I do know a bit about
Festbiers. An Oktoberfest can have a wide range of colors (deep gold
to deep amber-red, modern versions often substantially lighter than
traditional ones), and a broad range of original gravities (again,
modern examples being lighter). Hop bitterness is there, in levels
just high enough to make one appreciate the toasty-maltiness and to
help make the finish more lasting and elegant.
It is a malt-driven beer, toasty, not caramel(can't say that enough!).
Munich and/or Vienna malts must be used in large quantities to achieve
toastiness. Very little crystal malt should be used, it gives a
caramel taste. There are decent Munich malts available from German
sources.
There is no appreciable hop aroma, and hop flavor is very low. My
award winning Festbier only has 3 alpha acid units for bittering and 2
AAU's for flavoring a 5.5 gallon batch with a starting gravity of
1.062. No finishing hops are used.
The hypothetical beer Dave describes might be quite interesting, but
it sounds like it would just be a heavily smoky scotch ale, not much
in the way of Oktoberfest happening in it.
Have Fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
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From: Bill Rust <wrust at csc.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 09:56:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Recipe Design
Morning Brewmeisters,
I'm afraid I have to chime in and throw my $0.02 in with the SUDS/spread
sheet crowd. I used SUDS 4.0 to design a Samiclaus clone. I did a lot of
research (BTW, Michael Jackson's writings were invaluable!) and played with
the numbers. Then I got a bottle, tasted, readjusted, and made the beer. I
have a friend that drinks Sami' all the time, he says I came pretty close,
but he's waiting for it to age a full year for his final assessment. It was
pretty easy using the software, because you can just try adjusting
ingredients and see how it affects your target values.
With regards to difficulty in designing recipes:
You can either use an existing recipe and tweak it, or set out on your own.
It's not as hard as you might think. Besides, I don't think the recipe is
as important as the process used to make the beer. There really *is* no
award winning recipe. It's the brewer who makes it into beer.
Most beer recipes I've seen in books give you choices in what hops to
select, and sometimes the yeast too. If you're doing that already, you're
halfway there! The best thing to do, IMHO, is make lots of beer,
experiment, and TAKE NOTES, otherwise you can't possibly remember everything
you did.
Have a Homebrew day!
-------------------------------------------------------------------
| Without question, the greatest invention
Bill Rust | in the history of mankind is beer. Oh, I
Master Brewer | grant you that the wheel was also a fine
Jack Pine Savage Brewery | invention, but the wheel does not go
Established 1985 (NACE) | nearly as well with pizza. - DAVE BARRY
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Return to table of contents
From: Dave Greenlee <daveg at mail.airmail.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 09:16:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Hopping Concentrated Extract Brews / Infected Keg / ScotOberfest
KennyEddy at aol.com wrote:
>
> Dave Greenlee asks about ScotOberfest (great name BTW):
>
Thanks, Ken. In all humility, I thought of the name and designed my labels
before I ever figured out how to
make the brew. ;-)
Then later went on to write:
>
> Dave, I recently made EuroFest OktoberAle [...]
> Low fermentation temperatures coupled with a very clean yeast is crucial.
> EuroFest I used Wyeast European, giving a great malty finish but with
> detectable ale-ness. EuroFest II uses Kolsch; the hydrometer sample tasted
> kinda thin but that's typical of flat green beers sometimes. Based on that
> sample, I'd say that the European should give you what you want with careful
> attention paid to temperature.
>
Do I read you correctly to mean that you at least semi-agree with me that the
lager vs. ale distinction is the
primary one between Scot and Okt and that your EFOA-1 did, in fact, thus have
Scot characteristics? Whether it
did or didn't, and more importantly, was EFOA-1 _tasty_? As you might detect
from my original post, I'm just
nutso about all three styles - scot, rauch, and okt - but though I put all of
them head'n'shoulders above most
other styles except maybe porters and stouts (do you see a trend here?), I
prefer them in the order just named.
You were shooting for a particular style and went on to get it, but looking
back at it do you say to yourself,
'but if I were making this for myself ...'?
Thanks for the advice about the peat smoked malt, too. It answers a question
which I had intended, but failed,
to ask, i.e. whether in moving the brew from a Scot to a Rauch if I could just
use more peat malt or would need
to add (or substitute) hardwood smoked malt or liquid smoke. My prior post just
presumed that the answer which
you gave would be the correct one, but you've confirmed it. It might be
interesting, I think, to leave the
peat in and just add hardwood, though, to give the smoke flavor a bit of
complexity...
As always, many, many, thanks for your kind and gracious support.
Nazdrowie,
Dave Greenlee
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From: pfeine at osf1.gmu.edu (pfeine)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 10:32:42 -0400
Subject: Blue Whale Ale (again?)
Hullo,
I've been out of town for a couple months and, alas, chucked the
HBD's...but from what I've heard about this Blue Whale Ale, I'm intrigued.
If anyone could send me a recipe or a synopsis of the hubub, I'd appreciate
it.
It ain't never too hoppy,
Paul
Return to table of contents
From: bill-giffin at juno.com (William P Giffin)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 10:43:46 cst
Subject: re: recipe formulation
Good morning all,
>>>Edward J. Steinkamp said:
Recipe formulation forces you to think about each step of the
process and how it affects the final product, however, it is not
for the beginning, or even intermediate brewer. These people
already have too much to think about just trying to make beer
that isn't slug-bait.
<<<
Recipe formulation is not that difficult. We in the homebrew community
seem to try to make advanced brewing something really difficult only to
be achieved by the best after years in the hobby. This simply is not
true. Advanced brewing is about as difficult as making biscuits from
scratch instead of using Bisquick!
The first extract batch of beer I brewed was about batch #100 I am not
sure of the number as that batch didn't make into my brewing records.
Sort of like pulling a TV dinner out of the freezer because your too lazy
to cook. I started brewing all grain. I began formulating my own
recipes at about batch #8 or 9. Recipe formulation requires
understanding of what you what to make and a few simple math problems,
big deal.
Remember in its simplest form all grain brewing entails crushing the
grain, infusing it with hot water to bring the mash into the
scarification range, rinsing out the sugar, boiling the wort, adding
hops, cooling then pitching it with yeast. Once you get to the cooling
part if you have done an extract batch every thing is the same provided
you are doing a full boil.
So for those of you who are still opening cans or bags of sticky stuff
that goes everywhere, throw that stuff away and get on the grain train to
BETTER BEER.
Bill
Return to table of contents
From: KRAUSG <krausg at aa.wl.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 12:22:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Beer Clip-Art Request!!
Hello HBD Collective,
I just installed a color Laser printer in my office and would like to start
printing "nice" color beer labels. Does anyone know of a source of
beer-related clip art. Freeware/Shareware would be nice but I'm willing to
pay a reasonable amount for good images. Thanks!
Gene Kraus krausg at aa.wl.com
Remember: Never let your morals get in the way of doing what you know is
right.
Return to table of contents
From: Gregory King <GKING at ARSERRC.Gov>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 12:25:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: censorship
In HBD #2146, tapp at usit.net wrote:
>There was a thread here some time ago about restricting posting rights to
>the HBD to its subscribers. Recent posts by this Nokomaree writer show me
>that this measure and any correlative involuntary unsubscribing of that
>writer and any others like that one may be needed.
I disagree. This would be censorship. Who gets to decide where to draw the
line between acceptable and unacceptable material?
I was offended by Nokomaree's initial post, with all of its "dumb"s and
"stupid"s and exclamation marks, but now I just find his/her/their posts to
be comical.
Greg King
gking at arserrc.gov
Return to table of contents
From: M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (bayerospace at mac)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 11:35 -0600
Subject: malt screens
collective homebrew conscience:
does anyone know where a person might find screens similar to the ones that
are employed in 6 roller mills, to separate the malt as it is being milled?
brew hard,
mark bayer
Return to table of contents
From: "William D. Knudson" <71764.203 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 14 Aug 96 12:38:03 EDT
Subject: Scottish vs Oktoberfest
Dave Greenlee discusses Scottish vs Oktoberfest beers,
I made an observation a couple years ago.
A buddy of mine, great brewer, made a scottish had me sample it, but didn't
tell
me what it was. To me it tasted like Paulaner Salvator. Give me this recipe!!
He was a little disappointed. It wasn't a bock, it was a scottish fermented
with the Wyeast. It had that elusive malty profile. Maybe I need to call him
for the recipe right now!!! Hopefully he hasn't latched onto the recent HBD
discussion and rethought the notion of recipe sharing.
I had thought about making a bock or festbier: munich malt and german hops etc
but with the scottish yeast. Your post refreshed my memory - Hmmm - gotta go
now.
Bill
Ich besser Deutsch getrunken!
Scheiss, heute hab' ich kein Beir getrunken!
Return to table of contents
From: iaciofano at leds.enet.qntm.com (Ed, Quantum PE (508) 770-2251)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 10:22:34 -0400
Subject: Stovetop brewing
Hi,
There's been some discussion lately of electric stovetop brewing
and it's related problems. I went through this last fall and posted
a question regarding a charred burner connector and dammage resulting
from heat being trapped by a big pot sitting on top of a standard large
element. My solution was to buy a canning element for my stove. Works
great, problem solved.
If anybody wishes to have more details send me private E-mail or
look in the archives of aprox. last Nov. No need (at this point) to
post it here, again.
Regards,
/Ed_I
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From: Rick Seibt <rseibt at apk.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 14:02:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: NG Ring Burner source
Sorry to follow up a post so late, but I got behind in my
HDB's and found I might be of help in finding a source for
natural gas ring burners. In HBD 2126 Joe Fleming asks for a source
for NG burners.
Earlier this month I was in Columbus, Ohio judging for the state
fair HB competition, and I stopped into a restaurant supply store
next to the fairgrounds. Lo and behold I found that they carry a
cast iron 8" natural gas ring burner (a stove replacement burner
I'm told) for $33.50.
The burner is made by Town Food Service Equipment, is made in China
looks like the Solarflo Z-10. Round with about 22 brass jets in the
outside ring and 4 on the inside ring. It has a 1/2" NPT fitting,
comes with a pilot light fitting and puts out 80,000 BTU (according to
Town 1-800-221-5032 their P/N 226800).
I purchased it from Wasserstrom Restaurant Supply in Columbus
(1-800-829-3027 or 614-228-6525) and I have no affiliation with them
whatsoever. The Wasserstrom item number is 205590, and you will probably
need it if you are going to order it. I have yet to try the burner
(probably fire it up tonight), but it appears well made and might be
just the ticket for some of you.
Wasserstrom's does sell by mail, and if you buy it before 8/17 you get
another 10% off.
Feel free to email me with any questions.
Rick
Return to table of contents
From: "John Penn" <john_penn at spacemail.jhuapl.edu>
Date: 14 Aug 1996 14:11:41 -0400
Subject: Dishwasher Safe
Subject: Time:1:46 PM
OFFICE MEMO Dishwasher Safe Date:8/14/96
Some things work for some homebrewers and not for others. I've heard of
using dishwashers for cleaning bottles and it works for some. My personal
experience was with a crappy--broke in less than 4 years so we scrapped
it--builder's model GE dishwasher which seemed to put crap into the bottles
instead of cleaning them. I only used it once on my second batch and I got
the telltale infection rings around the top of the bottle. Now I use bleach
solution and has worked for me. I used to use a bleach solution and soak
about a dozen bottles a day until I had a couple of cases+. An email from
George De Piro pointed out to me the relatively quick evaporation of the
bleach/chlorine such that I will now remember to replenish my bleach solution
daily or I will soak an entire two cases+ at one time.
John Penn
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From: Kyle R Roberson <roberson at beta.tricity.wsu.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 11:48:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Munich Malt
Without going in to lots of detail, here is the basic
difference between pale and munich malt: pale malt is
dried at a low temperature (low inside the malt kernel,
the air temp may start out hot) first and then kilned
(toasted) at a high temperature (70-90 degrees C). Munich
malt is dried at a high temperature (45-50 degrees C) and
then kilned at 90-100 degrees C. It's considered cheating
if the maltster has to roast the malt to get the right
color. The color is supposed to happen as it slowly dries
at 45-50 degrees C. To get this temperature inside the malt,
the air flow is lowered.
In crystal malts, the air flow may be cut off completely with
a tarp and the malt stewed fully moist at 65-70 degrees C to
"mash in the husk". They are then dried and roasted at various
temperatures for different effects.
It's pretty easy to make these various malts for yourself. Buy
"sprouting" barley (with husk) from your local health food store.
Wait till fall or winter so you can floor it with a nice cool
temperature. Even if you don't make enough for a full batch,
you can learn a lot by malting test batches and mashing in cups
to see the different effects.
Kyle
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From: Miguel de Salas <mm_de at postoffice.utas.edu.au>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 16:55:29 -1000
Subject: Iodophor in Australia
I have been kegging for nearly a year, and I have 7 steel Firestone
kegs. I understand bleach corrodes steel. I have also heard a lot about
Iodophor. Is it available in Australia? I've never seen it around. Also, is
bleach really that corrosive in the amounts necessary to sterilise a keg (I
use 5 tablespoons/25 litres)???
What is wrong with SO2? Metabisulfite would release SO2 in contact
with an acidic solution, and the gas should thoroughly disinfect all nooks
and crannies, shouldn't it?
Any help appreciated, particularly about the Iodophor.
Cheers.
Miguel
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From: "Pierre A. Dumont" <padumont at istar.ca>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 16:03:24 +0000
Subject: Secondary Fermentation
If there is one subject that seems to be beat around its this one.
I'm new to home brewing so I'm still in the experimental stage of
trying to figure out what is best for my brew.
The first batch I put on about 6 days ago is an American style light
beer. It stopped fermenting vigorously about two days ago. I just
got done transferring it to a glass carboy about an hour ago and
already I can see it start to clear up about a centimetre from the
top of the liquid line.
These are the questions I would like answered:
1. Should I have filled up the carboy to the bottom of the neck with
cooled boiled water or my favourite brand name beer?
2. Should I expect to see activity as in more bubbles of CO2 coming
out of the air lock?
3. What if I don't see any bubbles?
4. Before I bottle my beer, in about 10 days, I plan to transfer the
beer back into my primary, mix in the appropriate amount of sugar and
then pour it into the bottles using the spigot on the pail. Should I
be worried about oxygen at this point in the process?
Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated.
________________________________________________________
Pierre A. Dumont
1 Ila St
Campbellton, NB E3N 3S1
mailto:q9wj at spitfire.unb.ca
vioce:(506) 753-2001
fax:(506) 753-2001
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From: KennyEddy at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 15:08:45 -0400
Subject: Thermoelectric Coolers
A couple times in the recent past, the topic of Thermoelectric Coolers has
arisen. Melcor has an *excellent* page dedicated to their line of coolers at
http://www.melcor.com. Tons of technical and applications data. If you're
at all interested in this technology, this page will get you off to a great
start.
Ken Schwartz
KennyEddy at aol.com
http://users.aol.com/kennyeddy
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From: Scott Dornseif <SDORNSE at WPO.IT.LUC.EDU>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 14:15:53 -0500
Subject: Hops'n'Dogs
Yeah we all know about killing dogs by feeding them hops but what about
the converse? Will dog excrement kill your hop plants? Am I going to
have to have my neighbor taken care of...?
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From: Brian S Kuhl <Brian_S_Kuhl at ccm.fm.intel.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 96 12:51:00 PDT
Subject: Irish Moss Usage
All,
Billy Cole write about forgetting to put in the irish moss while boiling
his brew. He wants to know how to clear his brew now that the brew is going
to the secondary.
I am relatively new to brewing and thought the purpose of irish moss was
to aid in the reduction of chill haze, not clearing in the fermentation
process. What are the benefits of irish moss? Are there any drawbacks?
Billy, To clear brew in the secondary, I use geletin. So far so good...
CU
Brian
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From: "O'Mahoney, Larry" <LLOM at chevron.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 96 08:32:00 CDT
Subject: Hopping Canned Extracts
Anyone have a formula for duplicating John Bull Dark Hopped extract by
adding hops to the John Bull Dark Unhopped extract?
LarryO
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From: orion at mdc.net
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 17:29:36 -0400
Subject: Errors-To: bacchus at aob.org
Duffy Toler asked:
>I planted a few hop rhizomes this spring and am anticipating their harvest
>in the next few weeks. The only problem is my notes regarding which
>varieties were planted where are nowhere to be found. Is there any method
>of determining what variety they are by looking at them. I've tried lifting
>their tails... id didn't help ;)
>
>If it helps, the three varieties are Northern Brewer, Cascade and
>Willamette. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Duffy, I also planted some hops that spring. I didn't rely on notes, but
instead made myself some rathewr weatherproof tags so that I knew what I
had. The tags have been exposed to the light all summer, and look like new.
I printed them on a laser printer, and laminated with the self stick
laminate sheets sold at the office supply store.
However, knowing that you are now in this dilema, I would suggest that you
try contacting John I Haas, Inc, a commercial grower of hops. They were kind
enough to send me a copy of their color catalog which features full color
pictures of leaves and cones. The Cascade variety is failrly easy to notice.
The upper leaves are almost heart shaped. The Nothern Brewer and Willamette
are close, and perhaps the pictures will help sort 'em out.
OD
Orville Deutchman
Brewer of Down Under Ale!
Hobby Brewing at its Finest!
orion at mdc.net
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From: orion at mdc.net
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 17:31:46 -0400
Subject: Errors-To: bacchus at aob.org
Duffy Toler asked:
>I planted a few hop rhizomes this spring and am anticipating their harvest
>in the next few weeks. The only problem is my notes regarding which
>varieties were planted where are nowhere to be found. Is there any method
>of determining what variety they are by looking at them. I've tried lifting
>their tails... id didn't help ;)
>
>If it helps, the three varieties are Northern Brewer, Cascade and
>Willamette. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Duffy, I also planted some hops that spring. I didn't rely on notes, but
instead made myself some rathewr weatherproof tags so that I knew what I
had. The tags have been exposed to the light all summer, and look like new.
I printed them on a laser printer, and laminated with the self stick
laminate sheets sold at the office supply store.
However, knowing that you are now in this dilema, I would suggest that you
try contacting John I Haas, Inc, a commercial grower of hops. They were kind
enough to send me a copy of their color catalog which features full color
pictures of leaves and cones. The Cascade variety is failrly easy to notice.
The upper leaves are almost heart shaped. The Nothern Brewer and Willamette
are close, and perhaps the pictures will help sort 'em out.
Oooops: Almost forgot to give the address for Haas......
P.O. Box 1441
Yakima, WA 98907
OD
Orville Deutchman
Brewer of Down Under Ale!
Hobby Brewing at its Finest!
orion at mdc.net
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