---

   FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
        Shawn Steele, Digest Janitor
        Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!

Contents:
  First All grain ! (David Root)
  egos & email (Annetmark at aol.com)
  [none] (Jim Hodge)
  Corny Infection/Baking Bottles/Tolerance? ("Dave Hinkle")
  coriolis whirlpools (Andy Walsh)
  RE:Fruit Juice in Beer ("Leo A Demski (SAR)")
  [none] ((Darren))
  [none] (Frank Nowakowski)
  1996 Dixie Cup  ("Sean Lamb")
  [none] ((Richard Moore))
  kegging and carbonation ((PAUL RYBAK))
  Re: Counterclockwise Whirlpooling ((John W. Braue, III))
  [none] (bob rogers)
  [none] ("Bryan L. Gros")
  Coriolis effect ("Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM")
  [none] ((Russ Brodeur))
  Never saw this while I was in OZ (David Pike)
  oxidation (M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (bayerospace at mac))
  [none] (RUSt1d?)
  Hop Gender ("Huyck, Randall W.")
  [none] ((Charles Burns))
  boiling grains (AJUNDE at ccmail.monsanto.com)
  Keg Sanitation ("ESCHOVIL.US.ORACLE.COM")
  [none] ("Dan Listermann, Cinci OH")
  (no subject) (Ken Parsons)
  (no subject) (Warren Schnibbe)

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----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: David Root <droot at cris.com>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 17:16:37 -0400
Subject: First All grain !

    Thanks to the HBD,  I brewed my first All Grin batch of beer.  It went 
quite well except for a few small snags.  I used a 1/4 keg for the mash tun 
and used a homemade outdoor cooker for heat .  I think that the burner is 
rated   at  250K Btu.  Control of the heat was a little tough until I got used to 
the valve.  I tried to combine  170 f   5.5 pH water and the 10 lb. German 
malt.  The temp was 145 f.  I added heat and hit 170 f in about 3 minutes. 
SO I added some cold water to see if the batch could be saved.  After an 
hour of  roughly   155 f  , I tested for conversion.  It passed the test.  I 
was 
amazed.  The sparge went better than I thought.  I stopped  when I had 6 
gallons and 2 quarts of wort.  The gravity was 1.020 of the final runnings. 
It was so clear that I thought is was pure water, and kept checking the 
gravity.  I did not know when to quit so when I had no more room in the 
fermenting bucket, I stopped.  I boiled the wort in the same vessel  that 
was used for the mash.  Turned the burner on high, and waited.  I went 
into the house and when I came back out the kettle was boiling over, and 
I lost about 3 gallons of boiling wort onto the ground.  This killed the 
grass.  When I finished I had 3 gallons of wort with a sg of 1.060 . 
If it wasn't for the digest, I would never  had this adventure.  Next time 
I am going to do a 10 gallon batch.  I'm going to try to make Canadian 
Ale. 
 
Thanks to all of you for the inspiration      David Root 
 
droot at concentric.net 
 
David Root Lockport NY     droot at concentric.net 

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From: Annetmark at aol.com
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 20:22:16 -0400
Subject: egos & email

Dave Burley just wrote concerning his ongoing exchange with AlK. He wrote to 
the effect that they really weren't holding knives to each others throats and 
that they had kept a lot of it in private email. 
 
>We got off here when we realized our quotations, 
ruminating and discussions were not of interest to too many others and 
difficult 
to follow, although some people have recently asked to be copied in on our 
conversations. We try to limit our conversations in the HBD to those which we 
 
think are useful to some members at least.  Please don't misunderstand.  Our 
fussing and fighting is not based on egos - or at least mine isn't. (smiley 
face 
here). 
 
well, as a beginner a lot of your discourse went over my head, BUT - i look 
at the HBD as a fantastic learning resource, so PLEASE don't take it all to 
email. it's kind of like working on a jigsaw puzzle, it's hard to understand 
how the pieces fit together at first but as you begin to get a little basis 
of understanding all those little pieces begin to make sense and fit 
together. So thanks to all of you for your info pieces and don't think that 
there aren't interested people out here. besides, as has been said here 
before, we all have page down keys if we find something that doesn't interest 
us. 
 
on a more directly brew related topic - I had posted a few weeks back about 
the batch of hazelnut extract flavored Nut Brown Ale I had made. At the time 
I said I considered it almost undrinkable but was hoping that it would 
mellow. I bottled it June 15, now two months ago. I just opened one and it 
has improved considerably, although it has a long way to go. I received email 
from several people on this topic and the consensus seems to be go easy on 
the extract flavorings and give it a lot of time. 
 
I have a question concerning hops utilization. I started using a hops bag, 
which i like as far as keeping the sediments out of the fermentor. but i 
realize it cuts down on utilization - but by how much as a general rule? and 
does that vary much for the different forms of the hops? I have been using 
mostly loose cones, but recently have also been using pellets. TIA 
 
Mark Tumarkin 
The Brewery in the Jungle 
annetmark at aol.com 
 
 

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From: Jim Hodge <jdhodge at worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 00:30:03 +0000
Subject: [none]

In response to the comment: 
 
>There was a thread here some time ago about restricting posting rights to 
>the HBD to its subscribers.  Recent posts by this Nokomaree writer show me 
>that this measure and any correlative involuntary unsubscribing of that 
>writer and any others like that one may be needed. 
 
I am, frankly, surprised at the response NOKOMAREE's posts have generated. 
Was NOKO rude and offensive?  Certainly.  Were the comments inappropriate 
for HBD?  Probably.  However, the outcry to boot him/her off HBD or have AOL 
boot him/her, I find equally offensive and inappropriate.  Presumably, 
everyone reading this digest is doing so because they have an interest in 
brewing.  However, just because we all share this interest does not mean 
that we are one pleasant and well-adjusted homogeneous mass of humanity.  A 
trip to any brew club meeting will reveal that 'it takes all kinds' and I 
find that one of the really appealing aspects of brewing is the fact that it 
is an interest that can be shared with a people from all walks of life.  It 
is an unfortunate fact of life that some individuals are just abrasive to 
other individuals.  Accept this, move on, and you'll be a better and happier 
person for it. 
 
I personally found NOKO's comments more amusing than offensive and, at the 
risk of being flamed, ostracized, or slapped around in a virtual sense, I 
would point out that buried beneath all of the insults, the 'stupid's, etc. 
in NOKO's posts is the gist of Charlie Papazian's message:  Relax, don't 
worry.  If you're brewing at home, it's a hobby, not a job.  Make it as 
simple or complex as YOU want.  Spend as much or as little time as YOU want 
to thinking about how best to prime you beer at bottling.  If it's not fun, 
it's time to step back and analyze why the heck you're doing it. 
Jim Hodge 
jdhodge at worldnet.att.net 
=================================================== 
"..and what is good, Phaedrus, 
..and what is not good-- 
Need we ask anyone to tell us these things?" 
=================================================== 
 

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From: "Dave Hinkle" <Dave.Hinkle at aexp.com>
Date: 14 Aug 1996 18:09:31 -0700
Subject: Corny Infection/Baking Bottles/Tolerance?

Been out of town for a while, and had to catch up on 10 days or so of HBD. 
Just a few brief comments: 
 
Infected corny: 
For the person who had a kegged batch get infected, if it was a used soda keg, 
well, no wonder.  Iodophor won't remove crud, and I've yet to see a used soda 
keg that wasn't in bad need of disassembly & thorough cleaning. Careful taking 
apart the popet valves - I gashed the tip of my thumb with one once, which 
slowed down the rest of the cleaning process.  Replace all rubber o-rings 
(period!).  A little Red Devil Lye mixed in water cleans even the oldest dried 
soda syrup and mold/mildew off the metal parts.  Be sure to soak the dip tube, 
and get a brush to clean the inside (a .223 bronze rifle brush fit mine, and 
just $.99 if you already have a rod).  Lye works great and is cheap, but wear 
rubber gloves and safety glasses - that slippery sensation is your skin 
sloghing off!  A (new!) toilet brush helps clean the inside of the keg quite 
well.  Oh yeah, I don't remember seeing anyone mention it, but you generally 
don't want to use bleach on stainless.  Unless you're Robert Mondavi Vinyards, 
where a tour guide told me they use bleach water through a spray head to clean 
inside their tall, vertical fermenters.  I think as long as you don't soak, 
then rinse immediately, dilute bleach is OK to use on stainless.  Ahh, 
controversy. 
 
Baking bottles: 
I've been baking bottles with foil crimped over the top for well over a year 
now.  Pretty convenient to have nice, clean STERILE bottles ready whenever I 
need them.  Just peel off the foil and fill.  One thing I noticed is that even 
with slow heating and cooling, some bottles can't take the stress more than a 
few cycles.  But my failure rate is pretty low - 2 necks snapped off while 
capping from a pool of over 100 bottles in the past year.  Then again, in the 
years prior to baking, I NEVER had a bottle break while capping.  Anyone else 
observed a noticeable failure rate? 
 
Tolerance: 
Last, but not least, I am disturbed by the amazing lack of tolerance exhibited 
by several subscribers.  It's one thing to argue facts, but to attack someone 
else's OPINIONS is ridiculous.  Whether the opinions are those of an industry 
"expert" or those of a certain AOL user, they are just OPINIONS, right?  Try 
not to take things so personally if your opinions aren't shared by everyone 
else.  And the attacks on other people's character certainly do not belong in 
HBD. 
 
Dave Hinkle 
Phoenix, AZ 

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From: Andy Walsh <awalsh at crl.com.au>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 11:41:58 +1100
Subject: coriolis whirlpools

>From: Jim Youngmeyer <youngmeyer at POSC.org> 
>This may be the dumbest question ever posted to the HBD. 
>I know that in the northern hemisphere water goes down the drain in 
>a clockwise pattern, and in the southern hemisphere it drains 
counterclockwise.
>Will the counterclockwise motion of my whirlpool be offset or disturbed by the
>gravitational/cosmological tendancy of fluids to drain in the opposite 
direction?
 
This coriolis effect on water draining is one of the biggest urban myths 
perpetuated throughout modern society. The direction of a whirlpool is 
almost 
entirely dependent on basin geometry and/or status of the local water 
currents 
before you pull the plug (and other such physical effects). 
Try it yourself: fill a basin with water, set up a direction of flow, 
and pull 
the plug. The direction of the whirlpool will be dependent upon the 
initial 
flow, and will not suddenly reverse, unless your basin has really weird 
geometry. 
As for a whirlpool tank that is designed to go in a particular 
direction: it will 
behave pretty much identically in either hemisphere. 
The coriolis effect is visible in *large* systems such as weather 
patterns, but is irrelevant in small systems about the size of a 
bathtub. 
Incidentally, cyclones in the southern hemisphere are clockwise, and 
anticlockwise 
in the northern hemisphere. 
 
Now back to beer... 
- -- 
Andrew Walsh   CHAD Research Laboratories 
Phone (61 2) 212 6333  5/57 Foveaux Street 
Fax   (61 2) 212 1336  Surry Hills. NSW. 2010 
email awalsh at crl.com.au  Australia. 
 

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From: "Leo A Demski (SAR)" <demski at virtu.sar.usf.edu>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 23:06:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE:Fruit Juice in Beer

 
Hi there Folks!  May I just first say that I am very happy to have found 
such a nice forum (flames not withstanding) out there for homebrewing 
discussions. Keep up the good work! 
 
Now then-  Joe Labeck had asked about the success of putting fruit juice 
into yer various brews...I have had many excellent results from doing the 
above; tweaking regular or new recipes by adding a respectable amount of 
fruit juice (usually between 3 cups and 2 gallons) to a regular 5 gallon 
batch...You want to try to use the freshest juice though, or at least 
preservative-free juice... 
 
I have had particularly wonderful results from adding a few cups of fresh 
squeezed orange juice to a Belgian wit-like recipe,  a gallon and a half 
of Knudsen's Black Cherry juice to a nice Cherry Stout (made with close to 
10 pounds of tart cherries), and 2 gallons of fresh pressed apple cider to 
a brown ale recipe. 
 
The pros are that depending on the amount of juice, you can get either a 
hint of the fresh flavor and aroma of the fruit, or a lasting flavor of 
the fruit. 
 
The cons are that clearing of the beers seem to be impaired, and the 
beers that I have made with more than a gallon and a half of juice have 
had an extremely sour aftertaste, with more tannic bite than I wanted. 
 
Hope that helps- I would be interested in hearing more about the 
subject... 
 
Ciao, 
Leo Demski 
demski at virtu.sar.usf.edu 
 

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From: darrenjet at ipa.net (Darren)
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 22:39:17 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [none]

Fellow Brewers, 
        Upon brewing my first batch of mead, a friend suggested the use of a 
clarifying agent known as "Sparkolloid" during the final fermentaion stage 
prior to bottling.  This agent is commonly used by wine/mead makers and I 
was wondering about its usefullness in beer making.  Has anyone experimented 
with this?  Does it work?  Are there any undesirable effects?  "Sparkolloid" 
is apparently a trademark of Dover Vinyards, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio. (No 
endorsement, just stating fact to help identify the product in question.) 
 
Cheers, 
Darren 
darrenjet at ipa.net 
"The critic is convinced that the chief 
purpose of sunshine is to cast shadows." 
 

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From: Frank Nowakowski <huey at buffnet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 00:08:31 GMT
Subject: [none]

Does any one know of a study at home brewing course. I love to read about 
brewing and all the related subjects that go along with it. I've read most 
of the common books on brewing, but I'm looking for a little more. 
 
                                             Thanks; 
 
                                              Frank 
 

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From: "Sean Lamb" <slamb at ghgcorp.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 02:28:57 -0600
Subject: 1996 Dixie Cup 

I would like to invite all homebrewers to enter their beer in the 
1996 Dixie Cup Homebrew Competition. 
Information on entering  is available via the world wide web.  the URL is: 
 
http://www.foamrangers.com/DixieCup96.html 
 
All of the official entry stuff is there.  If you would like 
information mailed to you, send me you terrestrial address. 
 
The dates for this year's competition are October 18 and 19. 
 
Enries are due by Ocotober 5, and the entry fee is $6. 
 
As usual, there will be more than just judging for those people who 
chose to visit us in Houston.  Good speakers at the conference, "the 
Best of Fred" and more.  Come join us!. 
 
Sean Lamb   One of the Happy Humanoids in Friendswood, TX 
http://www.ghgcorp.com/slamb 

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From: remoore at exis.net (Richard Moore)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 05:41:38 -0400
Subject: [none]

Just got a free 6# bag o' malt from my friendly HB dealer.  Only problem is 
that it's kinda puffy.  She told me that she called the mfr (Northwestern) 
and they claim that it picked up a wild yeast prior to packing, and should 
be OK.  They credited her for the whole shipment, BTW. 
 
I accepted it, thinking that a good boil would kill most anything, but I'm 
having some reservations in the light of day.  I put it in the fridge 
pending a query of my peers.  What do y'all think? 
 
If I do go for for it, i gotta dig out CP to refresh my memory on how to do 
an extract brew.... 
 
Rich Moore 
Prop. & Braumeister 
War Admiral Brewery 
VA Beach, VA 
 

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From: PERSAND at gnn.com (PAUL RYBAK)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 06:57:48
Subject: kegging and carbonation

I've been kegging in a corny keg for about 15 batches so far.  I 
always force carbonate: sometimes shaking the heck out of the keg 
and other times just pressurizing and leaving it for 3-5 days.  I 
use the 'proper' temp-pressure from carbonation charts and have 
experimented with varying the carbonation pressure and discharge 
pressures.  I'm dispensing from a 5 foot length of 1/4" hose.  My 
question is that although I'm getting a very creamy and fairly long 
lasting head I get hardly any bubbles developing and rising from 
the bottom of the mug. 
 
Most of my brews are all grain lagers, usually with a 1/2 - 1 pound 
wheat added.  The beers a quite clear and my beer glass is always 
quite clean-no soap just hot water and drip dry.  Any advice? 
e-mail fine. 
 
Paul Rybak, Morris,IL 
 

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From: braue at ratsnest.win.net (John W. Braue, III)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 08:15:51
Subject: Re: Counterclockwise Whirlpooling

Jim Youngmeyer <youngmeyer at POSC.org> asks: 
 
>This may be the dumbest question ever posted to the HBD. 
 
Actually, I seem to recall dumber ones :) 
 
>I recently acquired a two tier converted Sanke keg brewing system. 
>The boil pot is plumbed so that you can recirculate the 
>wort in a counterclockwise direction.  This serves the dual purpose 
>of maximizing immersion wort chiller cooling efficiency and 
>whirlpooling hot/cold break into the center of the keg.  I know that in the 
>northern hemisphere water goes down the drain in a clockwise pattern, and 
>in the southern hemisphere it drains counterclockwise.  Here's the 
>dumb question.  Since I am in the northern hemisphere, will the 
>counterclockwise motion of my whirlpool be offset or disturbed by 
>the gravitational/cosmological tendancy of fluids to drain in the 
>opposite direction?  What say you, all you astrophysicists/brewers? 
 
The short answer:  no. 
 
The Coriolis effect (sometimes miscalled the Coriolis force) is of 
extremely small magnitude.  In experiments (I thought that for a 
change I had a reference right near me, but alas, it turns out to 
describe the *Coanda* effect) done by the simple expedient of 
filling a container with water and allowing it to drain out, it 
was found that, even after several hours, the water still drained 
out in the sense imparted by the filling (i.e., if you filled the 
vessel in such a way that the water moved widdershins, it would 
drain widdershins).  After (as I recall) about 6 hours, the 
Coriolis effect began to be seen in the drain (the water would 
change senses whilst draining), and the water had to be 
undisturbed for about 24 hours before the Coriolis effect would 
reliably start it draining in the expected sense. 
 
 
- -- 
John W. Braue, III                     braue at ratsnest.win.net 
                                       jbraue9522 at aol.com 
 
I've decided that I must be the Messiah; people expect me to work 
miracles, and when I don't, I get crucified. 
 

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From: bob rogers <bob at carol.net>
Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1996 08:54:17 -0400
Subject: [none]

 
gene asks about clip-art for lables. i don't know exactly what you want, 
but there is some stuff on web pages that could be used. if you have a 
scanner you could also scan things from magazines. i just started making 
lables for my homebrew. i have used generic clip art and it looks ok. 
i make the artwork with ms powerpoint, and then copy and paste into 
a ms word table with 4 inch by 3 inch cells. since i use an inkjet printer 
i fix the color with clear paint. i use a uhu gluestick to put them on 
the bottles. 
 
sometimes i make the lables 2 inch by 4 inch and put them on the bottle 
vertical. it gives my homebrew a unique appearance. 
 
brewing in the buckle of the bible belt 
bob 
bob rogers 
bob at carol.net 
 

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From: "Bryan L. Gros" <grosbl at ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 08:21:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [none]

Anyone have experience with Ultra hops?  That's all I've got left from last 
year's 
order, and I'm planning to brew a pale ale. 
What can I expect from the flavor and aroma of Ultra? 
 
Thanks. 
 
  - Bryan 
    grosbl at ctrvax.vanderbilt.edu 
   Music City Brewers:  http://www.theporch.com/~homebrew1/ 
 

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From: "Goodale, Daniel CPT 4ID DISCOM" <GoodaleD at HOOD-EMH3.ARMY.MIL>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 08:36:00 -0500
Subject: Coriolis effect

In HBD #2147 Jim writes: 
 
> Here's the dumb question. 
 
The only dumb question is the one that is 
not asked! (except for the REALLY dumb 
questions or as some HBDers would have it 
"dumbness" [sic]). 
 
>Since I am in the northern hemisphere, will the 
>counterclockwise motion of my whirlpool be offset 
> or disturbed by the gravitational/cosmological tendency 
>of fluids to drain in the opposite direction?  What say you, 
>all you astrophysicists/brewers? 
 
I'm not an astrophysicist (don't even play one on TV), 
but I was always taught that the Coriolis effect was 
something that effects macro systems, like hurricanes. 
It theoretically could effect water in the toilette or brewing 
system, but the effect is so small that other factors over- 
ride it. 
 
Daniel Goodale (yes, that is my real name) 
 
The Biohazard Brewing Company 
I like to think of myself as a chemical super-freak. 

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From: r-brodeur at ds.mc.ti.com (Russ Brodeur)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 10:46:08 -0400
Subject: [none]

Aloha, 
 
The water is pretty soft where I live (~ 34 ppm as CaCO3 & ~170 ppm TDS). 
However, since I dwell within the coastal plain (IMO), the salt 
concentration is on the high side (I think), at ~70 ppm as Cl-. 
 
I am wondering whether this salt concentration is high enough to affect the 
flavor profile of some of the more "delicate" styles, e.g. pils & Maerzen. 
My water's profile isn't all that different from Munich's, except for the 
salt concentration, which is about 30x higher. 
 
TIA for any advice! 
 
TTFN  --<- at  
 
Russ Brodeur  (r-brodeur at ds.mc.ti.com) 
Franklin, MA 
 

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From: David Pike <davep at bdc.cirrus.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 09:08:31 -0700
Subject: Never saw this while I was in OZ

Jim Youngmeyer <youngmeyer at POSC.org> says: 
"I know that in the northern hemisphere water goes down the drain in a 
clockwise pattern, and in the southern hemisphere it drains counterclockwise." 
 
I never saw this while I was in Australia. A momily, perhaps? 

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From: M257876 at sl1001.mdc.com (bayerospace at mac)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 12:08 -0600
Subject: oxidation

collective homebrew conscience: 
 
pierre asked: 
 
>1. Should I have filled up the carboy to the bottom of the neck with 
>cooled boiled water or my favourite brand name beer? 
 
some people do this to help cut down on oxidation.  using polyclar at racking 
generates CO2, which *should* fill some of the carboy headspace, at least 
for a while (how long, guys?). being heavier than air, it *should* sit on 
top of the beer surface and provide some protection against oxidation in the 
carboy. 
 
 
>4. Before I bottle my beer, in about 10 days, I plan to transfer the 
>beer back into my primary, mix in the appropriate amount of sugar and 
>then pour it into the bottles using the spigot on the pail. Should I 
>be worried about oxygen at this point in the process? 
 
 
when you transfer, don't splash, and you probably shouldn't just pour the 
beer into the bottles.  this is an easy way to get oxidized homebrew.  the 
risk at bottling is pretty high if you just splash it in there.  use some 
sort of a down tube that reaches into the bottom of the bottles so the 
beer doesn't foam and splash as it fills. 
 
 
question:  what's this about chlorine bleach getting impregnated into 
plastic?  i currently use the same plastic bucket for sanitizing and for 
sparge water.  i haven't noticed any bad flavors in the beer (chlorophenols), 
and neither have the judges, but is my beer at risk? 
 
brew hard, 
 
mark bayer 
 
 

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From: RUSt1d? <rust1d at li.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 13:52:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [none]

I took a tour of the Wild Goose brewery in Cambridge MD last weekend. 
Some interesting information was given to me by the tour guide (she 
was summer help so I didn't take the info too seriously). 
 
When I noticed that their mash tun had no provision to apply heat I 
asked if they did infusions to step up. The guide look at me, puzzled, 
and responded "We mash at 140F". Hmmm. (this one goes to 11). 
 
When we got to the kettle, she warned us to be careful, "the wort is 
boiling at 300F". (No it was not under pressure). 
 
This reminds me of the beer festivals I've gone to. It seems that the 
people pouring the beer know either very little, or wrong information 
about the beer/brewing process. One prime example was the Red Hook 
stand at a recent festival at Independence Brewing in Phila. The two 
women that were pouring were both knockouts, but they knew nothing 
beer (it was like a living beer commerical). 
 
When I go to a festival or a brewpub I expect the person filling my 
mug to know something about what they are filling it up with... 
 
Or is it just me? 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
John Varady 
Boneyard Brewing Co. 
"Ale today, Gone tomorrow" 
 

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From: "Huyck, Randall W." <rwh0303 at hub.doh.wa.gov>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 12:34:24 -0700
Subject: Hop Gender

I have some Cascades growing at my in-laws' and am beginning to wonder if 
I have a male hop plant instead of a female.  The cones (if you can call 
them that) are about the size of a small grape and are rather spiky, not 
leafy like the ones I'm used to buying.  Are they  a) ok and I should 
quit worrying and see what happens with time, b) poorly nourished, c) 
male hops and I should dig them out, or d) none of the above?  Any 
response, public or private would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks in 
advance. 
 
Randall W. Huyck 
Travel Desk 
Office of Financial Services 
Washington State Department of Health 
MS: 47901 
Voice: (360) 753-0711 
Internet:  RWH0303 at hub.doh.wa.gov 
 

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From: cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us (Charles Burns)
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 13:09 PDT
Subject: [none]

Al writes: 
Don writes in his mystery recipe: 
>4 lb Victory or Dark Munich 
 
These are two very different malts and I don't want anyone to get the idea 
they are equivalent.  Dark Munich is made by kilning green malt at a higher 
temperature than that used for Pils, Pale Ale, Vienna or (presumably) lighter 
Munich malts.  Victory is made similarly to DeWolf-Cosysns Biscuit.  They 
are made by taking a normally-kilned malt like Pilsner and then roasting it 
lightly at high temperatures.  The resulting flavours are quite different, 
the Victory and Biscuit having a toasty flavour with some similarty to bread 
crust. 
<snip> 
Al. 
 
Could we have a little glossary lesson here? What's the difference between 
roasting, toasting and kilning? No slaming my intelligence please, remember 
the only dumb question is the one not asked. 
 
======================================================== 
Kit writes: 
> 
>Hi, Ted. Being a natural born science major, I went and bought a new pouch 
of Wyeast and put it in a 1/2 gal starter after activating.  It has taken a 
week, but is not clearing. The fermnentation is not nearly as vigorous. 
> 
> So..... The culture Wyeast is now selling is not the same as they had 
originally. I still have a slant of that. I'll be interested to taste any 
difference. It acts a lot different than BrewTek's wit and saison as well as 
Yeast Labs and GW Kent. I have a slant of Celis from a micro lab in Texas 
and it is the same as BrewTek's.(IMHO) Get that yeast. Life will be much 
better. 
> 
- - - --- 
 
>Kit  Anderson 
 
This is a phenomenom I have recently discovered with #1968 that used to be 
London ESB, now called London Special. Doesn't act like the ESB, does act 
like London Ale III. Don't suppose they ever label the envelopes wrong, or 
are just lying about this strain. Anyone at Wyeast want to comment on this? 
Should I write to them and ask for another London Special and see how it does? 
===================== 
Charley 
- --------------------------------------------------------------- 
Charles Burns, Director, Information Systems 
Elk Grove Unified School District 
cburns at egusd.k12.ca.us, http://www.egusd.k12.ca.us 
916-686-7710 (voice), 916-686-4451 (fax) 
http://www.el-dorado.ca.us/~cburns/ 
 

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From: AJUNDE at ccmail.monsanto.com
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 15:17:09 -0500
Subject: boiling grains

     I've been looking for a nice stout receipe lately, and have come 
     across several that call for boiling the grains for very short periods 
     of time. 
 
     I thought boiling grains was bad, and that tempatures above 170f would 
     cause the release of tannins.  Would somebody wiser please explain! 
 
     Also, a nice Guniess or other Irish stout receipe that is a partial 
     mash and extracts would be apprecieated!  This will be my 4th batch, 
     and I'm not set up to do all grain, the last 3 coming out very well! 
 
     Thanks in advance! 
     Allen 
 
|              Allen Underdown - ajunde at ccmail.monsanto.com                 | 
|                 ITSS WAN Group - Monsanto Chemical Co.                    | 
| Amateur Radio Operator, computer geek, homebrewer and outdoor enthusiast! | 
|                      Try My BBS at 314.939.9445!                          | 
 

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From: "ESCHOVIL.US.ORACLE.COM" <ESCHOVIL at us.oracle.com>
Date: 15 Aug 96 13:49:36 -0700
Subject: Keg Sanitation

Thanks to everyone who answered my question about corny keg sanitation!  The 
overwhelming majority of people recommended sanitizing the corny keg while it 
was still all together with a mixture of water and iodophor by first letting 
it sit in the upright position, and then by turning it over to get the other 
side.  (Make sure the lid is on.) It was also recommended to push in the 
valves so that the solution would get into the hard to reach places.  It seems 
that after rinsing, the keg is then ready to use! 
 
Thanks again, I look forward to kegging again! 
 
Eric Schoville 
eschovil at us.oracle.com 

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From: "Dan Listermann, Cinci OH" <72723.1707 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 15 Aug 96 21:24:13 EDT
Subject: [none]

Mark Bayer asked where he might find the screens used by brewers to judge the 
quality of their crush.  They are really not very usefull to most homebrewers 
,but my set has given me great pleasure! 
 
I bought my set ( all six ( #10, 14, 20 30,60 & 100)  with a lid and a pan ) 
three years ago from Dual Manufacturing. Co., Inc. , 4211-13 N. Elston 
Ave.,Chicago, IL 60618. (312) 267-4457  , FAX (312) 267-4521. I seem to recall 
paying less than $300 for them. They are lovely and great for proving a point. 
 
If you do get to use a set, please analyize as many mills as you can and post 
the results.  There are some people who really need to see such things. <G>  I 
think that almost all homebrewers would be shocked by how fine and difficult to
aproach, even with multiple passes and screenings in between,  the textbook 
grind as outlined in the "Practical Brewer" is. 
 
Dan Listermann 
 
 
- ------------------------------ 

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From: Ken Parsons <klondike at sonnet.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 96 20:33:15 -0700
Subject: (no subject)

     Jim Youngmeyer asks about the effect of the Coriolus effect on his 
whirlpool. 
 
     "This may be the dumbest question ever posted to the HBD." 
 
It's probably not the dumbest but I give it at least an A- for effort. 
 
     The Coriolus effect results from the different rotational speeds of 
given spots on the Earth due to their latitudes.  This effect is 
demonstrated by hurricanes which revolve counterclockwise when observed 
from above in the Northern hemisphere and clockwise in the Southern 
hemisphere. 
 
     This effect would be much more difficult to see in water spiraling 
down a drain because the difference in rotational speeds are minimal. 
You would probably have to make a large number of observations to obtain 
enough data to statistically prove that the Coriolus effect was at work 
in your sink.  You probably could quite easily induce the water to spiral 
the opposite direction by swirling it gently by hand or with a whirlpool. 
 
     Therefore I conclude that you do not have to worry about this effect 
on your efforts to remove the trub from your wort. 
 
     However if you drink too much of your tasty brew and see the ceiling 
above you spinning in either direction then you may have something to 
worry about. 
 
                             Klondike Ken 
 
 
 

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From: Warren Schnibbe <schnibbe at cdsnet.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 1996 21:18:59 -0700
Subject: (no subject)

Hi there! 
 
This is my first post to the HBD, but I have been lurking here for quite 
a while.  But the below post kinda got me goin, and so, while I was at 
it, 
I might as well comment about some other stuff. 
 
> There was a thread here some time ago about restricting posting rights to 
> the HBD to its subscribers.  Recent posts by this Nokomaree writer show me 
> that this measure and any correlative involuntary unsubscribing of that 
> writer and any others like that one may be needed. 
 
I don't know who NOKOMAREE is or what he posted, but sometimes the goofy 
posts 
are the funniest.  I don't like censorship in any form, and I can aways 
breeze 
past the posts I don't want to read anyway.  I just hope another 
discusion on 
a 'lack of activity or content' formula doesn't break out....:) 
 
> I have been trying to find a 10 gallon Gott cooler for sale in my area 
> (Wilmington, Delaware). I have been unsuccessful. I just got an ad from Keen 
> Compressed Gases advertising, among other things welding-related, 5 and 10 
> gallon IGLOO coolers. The 10 gallon is $44.00 and some cents. This looks like
> a good deal, any comments on Igloos for mash tuns? 
> 
> Mark Warrington 
> Tri-State Brewers 
 
Well worth it.  I use one, because I brew in 10 gal. batches (5 gallons 
just isn't enough, 
especially after mashing all day..).  You can easily us it for 2 step 
mashes by just adding 
boiling water for the second step.  They hold the temp real good to. 
 
 
>I thought the collective would like to hear about my stove 'Deal of the 
>Century'. I was at an estate sale recently and saw in the corner of the 
>basement an old canning stove made by a company called Griswold. I paid 
>(without haggling over price) $15 for it and stuck it in the store room 
>with intentions of restoring it and using it for homebrewing. 
 
You got a real good deal!!  Anything with 'Griswold' on it is a 
collector's 
item.  You can't by a Griswold frying pan for $15.00, or $50.00 for that 
matter. 
 
My wife, who freaked when she read the post, says a good Griswold stove 
is worth 
near $1000.00. 
 
Well, back to the shadows, 
 
Warren Schnibbe 
schnibbe at cdsnet.net 

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