Homebrew Digest Friday, 11 October 1996 Number 2226
![[Prev HBD]](/img/previous.gif)
![[Index]](/img/index_button.gif)
![[Next HBD]](/img/next.gif)
![[Back]](/img/up_level_button.gif)
FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Mike Donald, Digest Janitor-in-training
Thanks to Rob Gardner for making the digest happen!
Contents:
[none] ("Robert Petersen")
re: sour stout (guy de wit)
Copper In Brewing Equip. (mikehu at lmc.com)
IPAs ("Dave Hinkle")
hey! chest freezer owners! (michael j dix)
False Bottoms, Heating Areas ("Kirk R Fleming")
Temperature sensors / RIMS (Ian Smith)
commercial copies (Edward J. Steinkamp)
Adelaide Sparkling Ale (Marshall Muller)
Re: Filters (ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT)
Blue Moon ("David E. Bentz")
couscous ((Michael Fay))
RE: hey! chest freezer owners! ("CHUCK HUDSON HEAD BREWER AND CO/OWNER OF HOMEBREW HAVEN ALBUQUERQUE NM.")
Re: IPAs (RUSt1d?)
Too many!!! ("DAVID LEWIS")
TEA beers ((Shawn Scolack))
Scotchbrite Pads (Michael Newman)
German mash pH (Michael Newman)
Wy1056 vs. Wy1084 (BRIAN F. THUMM)
Re: Blue Moon ((Ed Westemeier))
Re: mills ((Bill Giffin))
Acidifying sparge water, alkaline German water ((Tam Thompson))
beer body ("Robert DeNeefe")
Corona vs. Maltmills vs. any other mill ((David C. Harsh))
RE: Couscous Beer?? (Bill Ridgely 301-827-1391 FAX 301-827-3053)
RE: Hey, that's a hair, not a nit ((George De Piro))
For SUBMISSIONS to be published, send mail to:
homebrew at aob.org
For (UN)SUBSCRIBE requests, send mail to:
homebrew-digest-request@ aob.org
and include ONLY subscribe or unsubscribe in the BODY of the message.
Please note that if subscribed via BEER-L, you must unsubscribe by sending
a one line e-mail to listserv at ua1vm.ua.edu that says: UNSUB BEER-L
If your address is changing, please unsubscribe from the old address and
then subscribe from the new address.
If your account is being deleted, please be courteous and unsubscribe first.
For technical problems send e-mail to the Digest Janitor,
homebrew-digest-owner at aob.org.
OTHER HOMEBREW INFORMATION
http://www.aob.org/aob - The AHA's web site.
http://alpha.rollanet.org - "The Brewery" and the Cat's Meow Archives.
info at aob.org - automated e-mail homebrewing information.
ARCHIVES:
At ftp.stanford.edu in /pub/clubs/homebrew/beer via anonymous ftp. Also
http://alpha.rollanet.org on the web and at majordomo at aob.org by e-mail.
COPYRIGHT:
As with all forums such as this one, copyrights are retained by the
original authors. In accordance with the wishes of the members of the
Homebrew Digest, posts to the HBD may NOT be sold or used as part of a
collection that is sold without the original authors' consent. Copies
may ONLY be made available at no charge and should include the current
posting and subscription addresses for the HBD.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
From: "Robert Petersen" <StoneRidgeFarm at msn.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 23:38:07 UT
Subject: [none]
Brian asked
Does anyone know of any craft and
mega brews that are excellent and/or that define the style IPA?
I'm a fan of Oregon IPA, Sea Dog IPA, and most especially Mill City Brewry
(Lowell MA). The Mill City entry was excellent when first released. But they
took some heat for the heavy hops component. They toned it down ... darn.
It's still my favorite, but now I have to brew my own... double darn.
Return to table of contents
From: guy de wit <guydewit at glo.be>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 02:08:07 +0100
Subject: re: sour stout
in Homebrew Digest #2224 (Thursday, 10 October 1996, Tom Penn=20
Bordentown, NJ, (Tjpenn at aol.com) wrote:
"I have a unique opportunity: I made a Toad-Spit Stout from the NCJHB, =
with=20
"slightly more American hops. I had about a quart that would not fit in =
the=20
"carboy, and I put it in another bottle. Well, the airlock didn't seat =
well=20
"and I have a quart of sour beer (with moldy scum on top, but that's not =
"important). I am thinking of adding *3% sour beer* as Guiness is =
rumored to=20
"do. Of course I will boil it well to sanitize it. Any advice here? =
Has=20
"anyone done it, and what did you learn?"
you don't have to boil it. pasteurizing will be just fine. (15' at 65 =
celsius). you can also try to bottle it straight and wait a couple of =
years (in case it is lactic acid). in case it is vinegar acid, let the =
fermentation continue and you will end up with an unique 'alegar' which =
you can use in cooking.
let me know.
guy de wit
guydewit at glo.be
Return to table of contents
From: mikehu at lmc.com
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 17:19:54 PDT
Subject: Copper In Brewing Equip.
Carlos sez - (concerning copper in brewing equipment)
Does this mean I should put a penny into each bottle at priming? ;)
Maybe, maybe not. What I do, though, is throw five *older* (copper)
pennies into my boil kettle. Not only do I get small amounts of
dissolved copper into my wort (to make the yeast happy), but the
pennies also give the added benefit of acting as boil stones (produces
a nice roiling boil). They are also cool to listen to rattling around
in the bottom of the boil kettle. Pennies wispering in the wort? Ok,
no more homebrew for me today - NOT!
Mike H.
Portland, OR
Return to table of contents
From: "Dave Hinkle" <Dave.Hinkle at aexp.com>
Date: 10 Oct 1996 17:36:53 -0700
Subject: IPAs
John Varady writes:
"I did not say 'Bass is the definitive IPA' or even 'Bass is a good IPA', or
even 'Bass is good', I simply regurgitated what I've seen (on the bottle) and
with doubt at that (the quotes around IPA were meant to express doubt).
What is with all the nit-picking going on with in HBD?"
Yes, please, quite nit-picking and discuss the original question, 'cause I'm
curious, too. The question was: What are definitive commercial examples of
IPAs? John points out the Bass LABEL. I've also noticed that the McEwans
Export Ale (red labelled bottles) is LABELLED as "India Pale Ale", but I'm not
sure it really is (but darn tasty ale, anyway).
I had an "IPA" on tap at Jack's in SF, but I cannot remember the name of it.
It might have been made by Ballard; all I remember was the logo on the tap was
a white background "baseball diamond" shape with IPA along the left bottom side
in green letters. It was a light gold color ale and had a nice, extremely
bitter taste, but I don't recall what hop might have been in it. With the 100+
beers on tap at Jack's, it's a wonder I remember THAT much;-)
As for the SN Celebrator fans, sorry, but I don't think Cascades would be found
in a true IPA style. Celebrator is just a strong APA, isn't it? American hops
in a "true" IPA style? I don't think so, but there's always one in every
crowd. I'm also of the opinion that the American idea of "high" IBUs is higher
than in Britain; I'm sure someone out there in the US will say that McEwan's
Export isn't bitter enough to be an IPA. Which leads me to this thought:
Maybe the question is best answered at the source of this style. Help me out
here Brits, but in my travels through England, I don't recall ever seeing an
IPA in a pub. IPA style was originated in England, but are there any
contemporary commercial examples still produced there? Especially, anything in
bottles that we Yanks might be able to get a hold of?
Dave Hinkle
Phoenix, AZ
Return to table of contents
From: michael j dix <mdix at dcssc.sj.hp.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 17:42:02 PDT
Subject: hey! chest freezer owners!
My post of a few days ago generated mostly responses of the type,
"I'm interested in any response you get." I got some helpful
suggestions on how to best use a freezer, once I got it, however...
No one had a response like, "Get the FreezerBurn 8200. You'll never
regret it." So, let me re-phrase my query:
What are some great chest freezers(for lagering, with an airstat)?
Considering internal volume/cost-to-buy/cost-to-operate/quietness/
spouse appeal/etc. Any one buy a new one lately?
Personally I am looking for one that will hold the big acid carboys,
because I have accumulated a few over the years. Before I put one in
the car, and make the rounds of the appliance stores with one,
I would like to benefit from the experience of others (in the grand
tradition of the HB digest.)
BTW, I want it for making Classic American Pilsener (per George
Fix's Amateur Brewer article of many years ago) and for
making Munich Helles. I have used wet tee-shirts and ice baths
(with California Common yeast for the CAP), and even tried cramming
a 2.8 gallon carboy in the kitchen fridge, (a real test of spousal
patience) so I am ready to step up.
Many thanks in advance,
Mike Dix
Return to table of contents
From: "Kirk R Fleming" <flemingk at usa.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 19:33:50 -0600
Subject: False Bottoms, Heating Areas
In #2223 I think, Jim Busch quotes another writer who suggested smaller
false bottoms for directly fired tuns. Jim asked "why would you, if you
weren't recirculating?"
I don't know where the original posting came from, but a few issues back I
argues for a larger false bottom for direct-fired tuns. I can see both
positions, but my idea centered around recirculating. I want to have the
entire heated surface (to the degree practical) covered with
liquid-only--no grain touching the fired surface. That's because I'm not
stirring the mash, but only recirculating wort. I want to draw as much
energy off the heating pan as possible, using a continuous flow of wort to
do it.
A small false bottom, on the other hand, maximizes contact of the mash with
the heated surface. This implies stirring the mash (which I have no
problem with at all). It's just that I'm not doing that, normally.
There seems to be some scorching concern. A point I think bears repeating
is that the liquid below the false bottom, in a recirculating system, never
exceeds set point temperature except at the heating surface boundary. The
larger the heated surface in contact with the wort, the smaller the
temperature gradient needs to be to shorten the ramp-up period to the next
higher rest. During the rest itself, energy inputs are absolutely
minimal--10 second blasts every 10 minutes for temp maintenance on my
system.
With a substantial false bottom in a directly fired mash tub, yes, you need
to be recirculating. With the luxury of a jacketed system (steam or other
working fluid) then no, life would be grand. Comments?
KRF Colorado Springs
Return to table of contents
From: Ian Smith <rela!isrs at netcom.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 18:53:43 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Temperature sensors / RIMS
Charles Capwell asks about PC card and temperature sensors for RIMS. You
might get a card from Computer boards Inc (508)261-1123 the CIO-DAS08/Jr
is $99 has 8 Anolog out , 8 Dig in and 8 dig out. I am going to buy one
soon and other people were interested - why don't we get together and
negotiate a quantity discount ?
The copper tube in the wort thing was actually a copper tube in a
seperate vessel maintained at 150 F. Passing wort through it with a
pump will raise its temperature before returning it to the mash tun. I am
presently writing a computer program to calculate the thermal efficiency
of such a heat exchanger. Preliminary results indicate that with a 3/8"
OD copper tube (25' long) and the hot water vessel at 152 F. If the wort
is pumped through at 150 F it should leave at 150.8 F on the first pass.
To completely exchange 2 gallons of wort will take 2 minutes. The next
pass through the coil will raise the temp to 151.3 and then to 151.5 etc.
Results are preliminary so YMMV.
Actually what I wanted to do was keep the hot water at 150 F (mash temp)
and when ready to mash out I would raise it to 170 F. The wort in the
coil in the hot water would soon reach 170 F and after 10 minutes of mash
out I would simply open a valve and sparge with the 170 F hot water. Neat
if it works (thermodynamically that is).
Temp sensors can be had from Motorolla the LM34 is approx $5 and has a
0-5V output which can be read directly by the above mentioned PC board.
You might also use a 0-5V RTD (resistive temp device) from Omega at (800)
826 6342.
As for electric valves. Has anyone taken a simple automatic lawn
sprinkler valve (24 VAC coil) and made it work for hot wort. These things
can be had for $10-15 and should work great if the plastic or seals will
withstand the temperature. I would appreciate any feedback from people
who have tried this.
Cheers
Ian Smith
Return to table of contents
From: Edward J. Steinkamp <ejs0742 at dop.fse.ca.boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 12:24:39 PDT
Subject: commercial copies
Periodically people request recipes for a clone of this beer or a
copy of that beer, and I always wonder why would you aspire to
make a copy of a great beer, when you could make a great beer of
your own. Isn't making your own great beer what homebrewing is
all about?
For me, the style is the key. I may look for a great Belgium Wit
recipe, or an extra hoppy IPA recipe, or use the information in
the style gudelines and some example recipes to make my own
recipe, but ultimately it is my own beer, and not some clone. For
example, this summer when I made an ESB, I looked up the style
guidelines, I checked out some recipes to get some general ideas,
and I created a recipe to suite my own needs. I like Red Hook
ESB, but I don't want to clone it, how boring. So, as I continue
with my lecture, for those of you out there that want to clone
Sierra Nevada Pale ale for instance, why don't you try to figure
out what it is that makes you like SNPA more than other pale
ales? Figure out what it is you like about that particular style,
and find or create a recipe that produces your own joe schmo
pale ale.
I'll get off my soap box now.
Ed Steinkamp
Return to table of contents
From: Marshall Muller <Marshall.Muller at dsto.defence.gov.au>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 11:05:41 +0930
Subject: Adelaide Sparkling Ale
In HBD #2222, Bill Coleman wrote:
>I've also noticed that the yeast in the bottles that I bottle conditioned
>with this yeast, in the first batch, settled out very well; the beer is very
>clear. That may be why the yeast conks out early; it flocculates very well.
>This is odd, because I always have trouble pouring a glass of the real
>Cooper's Sparkling Ale without shaking up the yeast!
I've noticed this also. I questioned by local home brew store about this
and he said that the yeast used for bottle conditioning is not the same
as that used for fermentation. He said they pasturise to kill of the
yeast after fermenation and added different yeast for bottling.
I guess if they didn't filter out the original yeast it would settle and
stir up when poured. Naturally after making a starter from a coopers bottle
only the live yeast would reproduce and none of the original yeast would
be present hence the different characteristics.
I'm going on what my local home brew store owner said..If anyone knows better
please correct.
I have also never tasted the yeast flavour present in the original bottles
in my own home brew. This kind of supports the above.
Incidentally, the way we pour bottled coopers here in Adelaide is to take
the bottle, invert it and very gently twirl for 3 or so seconds. The intention
IS to shake up the yeast sediment a little. You can control the yeast
contribution
to the flavour depending on how much you shake it up. It actually tastes better
if
you stir it up a little. If you shake ALL the yeast into the beer I find the
flavour a bit too strong. It is normal the drink coopers cloudy.
Marshall Muller
Adelaide - Australia
Return to table of contents
From: ThE-HoMeBrEw-RaT <skotrat at wwa.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 20:43:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Filters
>From: Jim Busch <busch at eosdev2.gsfc.nasa.gov>
>Subject: Filters
>
><I purchased a water filter (from the Filter Store... Boy did I get ripped
><off, paid $79 for a friggin' $19 water filter... Live and Learn friends,
><Live and Learn...) two years ago with a variety of filter cartridges (you
><can get the filter cartridges at any big hardware chain for about $2 a
><piece, This beats the hell out of paying $39 from the Filter Store).
>
>The filters sold for brewing are much better and different from the
>hardware chains water filters. Efficiency ratings are higher with
>the brewer version and reusability is also greater. You can buy
>disposable beer filters from Crystal Clear.
Actually Jim the filters I have seen are the same make and model number, so
are th .5 and 5 micron filters. On this I beg to differ. The company in
question is merely siezing the moment to make a profit just like when a
Homebrew shop charges you $3 for a rubber ring you can buy at Builders
Square for about 25 cents.
>Scott writes:
>>>>>
>I purchased a water filter (from the Filter Store... Boy did I get ripped
>off, paid $79 for a friggin' $19 water filter... Live and Learn friends,
>Live and Learn...) two years ago with a variety of filter cartridges (you
>can get the filter cartridges at any big hardware chain for about $2 a
>piece, This beats the hell out of paying $39 from the Filter Store). All in
>all I found that the filter worked very well with the .5 micron cartridge
>on very light color and lightly hopped beers. I also noticed a big loss in
>hop flavor and overall body in my brews, but as they said, the beer was
>crystal clear without any sign of sediment!
>>>>>>
>
>I don't think you got ripped. You are paying for the filter mostly.
Again I think that they a seeing as a quick buck.
>
>I also found that I lost some carbonation when I ran carbonated beer
>through the filter.
>>>>>
>
>This can be minimized if you presurize the receiving keg prior to
>filtering, kind of like counter pressure bottle filling.
Of course I pressurize the receiving tank.... Do you think I want all that
nice taste ruining air in my beer?
>>>>>
>Before filtering I would get the beer down to about 29 F and transfer it
>through the filter at about 32 psi. This worked very well for me, who knows
>for you.
>>>>>
>
>15 psi works for me with a 5 micron filter. Cold is good. It also allows
>you to see how full your receiving keg is getting. You can watch the
>condensation work it's way to the top of the keg.
I like the added feature of being able to see the condensation. I have also
transferred at 12 psi and gotten great results. I try to change accordingly
to style.
I also think that if you do decide to filter your brew you should stick with
the 5 micron instead of the .5 micron filter.
- -scott "Keep it Greasy" Abene
################################################################
# ThE-HoMe-BrEw-RaT #
# Scott Abene <skotrat at wwa.com> #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat (the Homebrew "Beer Slut" page) #
# OR #
# http://miso.wwa.com/~skotrat/Brew-Rat-Chat/ (Brew-Rat-Chat) #
# "Get off your dead ass and brew" #
# "If beer is liquid bread, maybe bread is solid beer" #
################################################################
Return to table of contents
From: "David E. Bentz" <dbentz at pen.k12.va.us>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 96 23:40:13 EDT
Subject: Blue Moon
Just read an inquiry about Blue Moon. I'm more familiar with
the beer (especially that tasty Belgian White) than with the
company that brews it. However, I think it's actually a
subsidiary of (I can hardly say it) Coors. I know it comes out
of Denver. Can anyone verify this?
I'll be bottling my very first batch of brew this week!
Brew long and prosper.
Dave Bentz
dbentz at pen.k12.va.us
***************************************************************************
Return to table of contents
From: faymi at earlham.edu (Michael Fay)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 23:02:04 -0500
Subject: couscous
Ken Sullivan says:
As I am eating my lunch I wondered if anyone had ever
made beer out of couscous?? And... what is couscous anyway?
I asked around the office and got answers from 'pasta' to
Morroccan Wheat. Anybody know?? Can it be mashed?
Couscous is a hard wheat that is basically broken into little pieces (and
probably processed a little more.) I is often likened to pasta because it
is made from the same type of hard wheat (read high protein.) So the high
amount of protein would seem to be a deterrent, I'll leave it to the grain
masters to answer that question as I am not too sure.
Michael
Return to table of contents
From: "CHUCK HUDSON HEAD BREWER AND CO/OWNER OF HOMEBREW HAVEN ALBUQUERQUE NM." <CHUDSON at joplin.unm.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Oct 1996 22:16:52 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: RE: hey! chest freezer owners!
You Might try looking at Montgomery Ward for decent freezers. I just bought
three of there Signature series for $279.00 each. (No Affilation or any such as
that in fact they even P^&%$ me off!) It is a 13 cubic foot and holds 4,
5 gallon carboys with lots of room left over or 4 6 gallon with a tight squeeze
Hope this helps
Chuck Hudson
"give a man a beer and he wastes an hour
teach a man to brew and he wastes a lifetime"
My wife and I don't know where she heard it.
Return to table of contents
From: RUSt1d? <rust1d at li.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 02:23:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: IPAs
If you're lucky enough to live in the philadelphia area, Yards Brewing Co.
makes an excellent IPA. Available cask conditioned. They make THE best
beer in philly today. They also make a pale ale, porter, esa (extra special
ale), sassion, barleywine and old ale, all in 3 bbl batches. No bottles.
Stoudt's in the same area also serves up a cask conditioned IPA and it is
one hoppy brew. I actually had a glass that I couldn't drink w/o a pale
chaser because it was too hoppy. I guess I was under the weather that day.
It hasn't happened since.
Peace,
John Varady http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady/index.html
Boneyard Brewing Co. "The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program"
"Ale today, Gone tomorrow."
Return to table of contents
From: "DAVID LEWIS" <LEWIS at stud.agrar.tu-muenchen.de>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 11:20:01 +0100
Subject: Too many!!!
Two or three digests a day are too many. Anyone else agree. D.
Lewis
Return to table of contents
From: Shawn.Scolack at tsr.gcastle.com (Shawn Scolack)
Date:
Subject: TEA beers
Reply-To: Shawn.Scolack at tsr.gcastle.com
I've got a few questions about using tea as flavouring in beer. I have a
recipe for a 1 gal. batch, I got it from the book homebrew favorites...
(1 1/2 lbs Light extract, 10 black currant tea bags, ale yeast)
Has anyone attempted this yet? It sounded interesting and different enough for
me to try it, especially since I'm very new to brewing (1 batch of brown ale
under my belt so far). Anyways, I was also thinking of adding some honey to
the recipe. Is this advisable? If so, I'm uncertain as to how much I should
add.
If anyone can help, I'd appriciate it.
Shawn.Scolack at tsr.gcastle.com
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
Source: The Staff Room BBS, 519-979-4208, FIDO: 1:246/12
Over 450Meg of quality educational shareware for the taking!
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
[Created by the Internet Connection 4.0/Registered 10-10-96 14:29:19]
Return to table of contents
From: Michael Newman <100711.2111 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 11 Oct 96 07:16:10 EDT
Subject: Scotchbrite Pads
I use green scouring pads (eg 3M Scotchbrite) to make filters in the base of my
mash tun and boiler. They are a good compromise between filtering efficiency
and
flow rate. The first run off from my mash tun with one of these filters
installed is nearly bright from the start.
But...
1. What are they made from?
2. Do they pose any risk to me, my yeast, or my beer?
MICHAEL NEWMAN, Warminster, Wiltshire, UK
Return to table of contents
From: Michael Newman <100711.2111 at CompuServe.COM>
Date: 11 Oct 96 07:16:01 EDT
Subject: German mash pH
Peter Ensmeyer asks how German beers constrained by the Rheinheitsgebot correct
their mash and sparge water pH.
Well they could:
1. Cheat. ie ignore the Rheinheitsgebot and treat their liquor. I'm sure this
happens but obviously no one will admit to it.
2. Use an acid rest. By starting the mash at a low temperature (?40C) create
conditions for Lactobacillus Delbrukii to do their funky stuff and lower the ph
with naturally produced lactic acid. This is certainly done in many breweries,
especially the more traditional ones. But what about the megabreweries that
have
gone over to infusions mashing? This extra step can't fit in with their
efficient ethos.
3. Even some of the lighter coloured German beers contain a little dark malt.
Maybe this is enough to lower the pH of the mash.
I'm not sure how important sparge pH actually is. The pH of the mash is fairly
well buffering and in the earlier stages of sparging the sparge water will be
buffered by the mash. Of course later on this will not be the case. In my
infusion mash system I find that the pH of the runoff is not outside the
acceptable range before I have collected my target pre-boil volume (34 litres
for a 1.5hr boil, giving 23 litres of green beer).
MICHAEL NEWMAN
Return to table of contents
From: BRIAN F. THUMM <THUMMBF at GWSMTP.NU.COM>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 07:44:00 -0400
Subject: Wy1056 vs. Wy1084
Will Wy1084 (Irish Ale) just produce a drier finish than Wy1056 (American Ale)?
Or does it lack the crispness and robustness of the 1056 as well?
Brian
Return to table of contents
From: ed.westemeier at sdrc.com (Ed Westemeier)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:01:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Blue Moon
Chris writes:
> Is anyone familiar with the Blue Moon Brewing Co.??
> They have a wonderful Belgian White ...
> Is it the oats in that beer that give it its crisp
> taste?
Blue Moon is a creation of the marketing department of
Coors. The Blue Moon beers are brewed under contract, by
first F.X. Matt in New York, and now by Hudepohl-Schoenling
in Cincinnati. There are at least three varieties in the
Blue Moon brand line, all of them pretty good for such
a product. I agree that the Blue Moon white, while not
outstanding, is a pretty good example of the style.
The main flavor component, besides the spices, is the
wheat, not oats.
Ed
Return to table of contents
From: bill-giffin at juno.com (Bill Giffin)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:16:06 cst
Subject: Re: mills
Good morning all,
>>>Paul Sovcik asks about the Maltmill over the Corona:
1) Is the TASTE of the beer different? I hear lots of stories of
crushed
husks and tannin extraction and astringency, but is it real?
2) Is the extraction markedly different? Will a Maltmill add 10 points
to my extract over a Corona?
<<<
Answer to the question 1 the beer will not taste any different just
because of the mill used.
#2 I get better extraction using my Corona over the Maltmill by 2-3
points so the answer to question 2 is no.
Bill
P.S. Anyone who would like an adjustable Maltmill for a very reasonable
price and I mean reasonable contact me private email.
Return to table of contents
From: Tamth at mail.utexas.edu (Tam Thompson)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 07:49:55 -0500
Subject: Acidifying sparge water, alkaline German water
Peter Ensminger says:
>
>Adam Back asked about the pH of sparge water ...
>
>Sparge water pH is important. If it is too high, it will extract
>polyphenols (tannins) from the grains into the wort and this can lead to
>an astringent beer. One way to lower the sparge water pH is to add gypsum
>(CaSO4.2H2O). However, for water which is highly alkaline to begin with,
>you may need to use lactic acid or phosphoric acid.
I like phosphoric acid, since I've been told that it's also a
great food for the yeast. Here in Austin, Texas, on the
northwest side (Decker water treatment plant), my water's pH
is 9.9 (!), so I've found through trial and error with pH strips
that I need to add about 4 drops of phosphoric acid (sorry, I
don't remember the concentration; I'm a mechanical engineer,
not a chemical one) per gallon of sparge water to properly acidify it.
>
>
>My impression, from having lived in Germany for a while, is that German
>water is very chalky (alkaline). This leads me to ask:
>
>How do German brewers, who are constrained by the Rheinheitsgebot, lower
>the pH of their mash and sparge water?
Gypsum-lined pipes, perhaps? Or some other type of brewing
plumbing which leaches acid into the brew? Or perhaps a
small amount of dark grains in the sparge water (maybe just
pilsner malt for lighter-colored beers.)
So, who's got entries in the Dixie Cup in Houston for Oct. 19 & 20th?
I'm in the Traditional Porter category, and I'll be there.
Of course, the main reason I'm traveling (home) to Houston
that weekend is for the Gallery Furniture 20k road race (running.) ;-)
See y'all,
Tam Thompson, Ph.D. candidate, Tamth at mail.utexas.edu
Mechanical Systems & Design Area, Robotics Research Group
Mechanical Engineering Department, The University of Texas at Austin
Return to table of contents
From: "Robert DeNeefe" <rdeneefe at compassnet.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 07:54:33 -0500
Subject: beer body
I was enjoying a brew with my wife at a local brewpub when I noticed
that the beer seemed to have more body than I remembered from
previous imbibing. My mind starting wandering and I started
wondering about different ways of adding body to beer. Apparently
mashing at higher temperatures encourages formation of dextrins,
which are unfermentable and lead to greater mouth-feel. Adding
certain specialty grains, like crystal malts, also adds dextrins to
your beer. Being a relative newbie to brewing (though my 1st
all-grain is sitting in my secondary as I write this - what an
experience!) I was wondering if someone could discuss the
differences/similarities in the two approaches for getting a greater
mouth-feel. Are they basically just two ways of doing the same
thing, or are the differences in the final beer really noticeable?
I'm also interested in other factors that affect body.
Robert
Return to table of contents
From: dharsh at alpha.che.uc.edu (David C. Harsh)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 09:01:11 -0400
Subject: Corona vs. Maltmills vs. any other mill
Paul Sovcik writes that he is considering a mill and asks:
> I have reached the point in my brewing where I need to buy a mill.
> I figure I have two choices: A Maltmill for $100+ or A Corona for $40
>1) Is the TASTE of the beer different? I hear lots of stories of crushed
> husks and tannin extraction and astringency, but is it real?
>2) Is the extraction markedly different? Will a Maltmill add 10 points
> to my extract over a Corona?
The answer to both questions is a resounding no. What you will discover is
that using the Corona can be a bit of a pain because the settings tend to
creep a bit as you grind. The Corona also produces a high percentage of
flour, but you can live with it.
You will not make better beer just because of your mill. Take and two
mills you've heard of, put them in the following sentence in any order and
you will have a true statement:
The ________ Mill will not make better beer than the ______ Mill.
There are several other mills available that you should also consider such
as the Brewer's Resource, Glatt (out of business, but maybe you could find
a used one), PhilMill, and Valley. There are probably other mills, and I'm
sure the collective will correct me in that case.
The bottom line is that every brewer has purchased the best mill available
- - just ask him or her. I know I do.
NAYDYDYD (no affiliation, ya-da-ya-da-ya-da)
Dave
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
& Dave Harsh &
& DNRC Minister of Bloatarianism O- &
& Cincinnati, Ohio &
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
Return to table of contents
From: Bill Ridgely 301-827-1391 FAX 301-827-3053 <RIDGELY at A1.CBER.FDA.GOV>
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 09:06:13 EST
Subject: RE: Couscous Beer??
In HBD #2225, Ken Sullivan writes:
>As I am eating my lunch I wondered if anyone had ever
>made beer out of couscous?? And... what is couscous
>anyway? I asked around the office and got answers from
>'pasta' to Morroccan Wheat. Anybody know?? Can it be
>mashed? Anybody tried it??
Couscous, a North African staple food, is a granular form of
semolina (coarsely ground durum wheat used primarily to make
pasta). It's usually cooked and served as a breakfast porridge,
side dish at dinner (with meat and vegetables), or sweetened with
fruit and served for dessert. The Maghreb tribe steams it in the
top portion of a special pot called a "couscoussiere", while
chunks of meat (usually lamb or chicken), vegetables, chickpeas
and raisins are simmered in the bottom part.
I'm not sure how well couscous would work as a brewing adjunct.
It has a high gluten content (as does most varieties of wheat),
so it would tend to be sticky in a mash. On the other hand,
malted and unmalted hard wheat is routinely used in brewing, so
it certainly would be worth a try.
Looks like another project for Delano "Adjunct Boy" Dugarm.
Bill Ridgely
Alexandria, Va
Return to table of contents
From: George_De_Piro at berlex.com (George De Piro)
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 1996 08:23:19 -0700
Subject: RE: Hey, that's a hair, not a nit
John Varady was upset by my response to his post in which he said,
"Hard to believe but Bass Ale is an 'IPA'."
Sorry John, but the sarcasm of your statement really didn't make it
through to me in written form.
I think it's important to keep things clear so that the neophyte beer
geeks among us are not misinformed. The labeling practices of many
brewers are confusing enough!
Sorry for the bandwidth! (I did keep it short)
Have fun!
George De Piro (Nyack, NY)
Return to table of contents