---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  Drying Hops ("Lee Carpenter")
  Homegrown Hops ("Lee Carpenter")
  re: Don't use your homegrown hops for brewing (Dick Dunn)
  25L stainless steel barrels ("Terry Tegner")
  tiny mosses with big brains (Dave Whitman)
  Helles Recipe Wanted ("Schultz, Steven W.")
  New 7 gallon Gott coolers (Mike Spinelli)
  Recipe for Vienna lager wanted ("Braam Greyling")
  chili beer (Dave Whitman)
  More on the mysteries of drying hops... (Some Guy)
  san diego (HOUCK KEITH A)
  Can it, Mead storage ("David R. Burley")
  Re: Mash Tun Manifold -- Plastic or Copper? (KennyEddy)
  low mash efficiency (dleone)
  chiles / eisbock (Samuel Mize)
  First time kegging help needed (Paul R Buettner)
  culturing yeast (Eric  Tepe)
  Re: Congratulations!! ("Decker, Robin E.")
  suction break tube (Rich Hampo)
  Gott cooler sources (Todd Etzel)
  yakima hops? (Jeff Sturman)
  Water Chemistry (David Whitwell)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 01:06:29 -0400
From: "Lee Carpenter" <leec at redrose.net>
Subject: Drying Hops

Stir Doctors,

Mark Witherspoon says he dries his hops in his attic for a mere two hours!
This attic must be wicked hot! I placed mine on a screen in a 90 degree
garage and they weren't properly dry for 72 hours. Humidity was somewhat
high at 70%, but still, TWO HOURS?!? How?

Lee C. Carpenter

"You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline--it
helps if you have some kind of football team, or some nuclear weapons,
but at the very least you need a beer."
                                       -- Frank Zappa



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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 01:18:50 -0400
From: "Lee Carpenter" <leec at redrose.net>
Subject: Homegrown Hops

Don Van Valkenburg says not to use your backyard hops for brewing. While
this point may have some validity, I contend it is perfectly fine to use
your hops for dry hopping and for lambics (in which case you have let your
hops practically rot for two years). Backyard hops definitely have a place
in the homebrew culture. Alpha acid content may not be known, but with dry
hopping and lambic brewing, who cares? 

Use 'em if ya got 'em!

Lee C. Carpenter


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Date: 22 Jul 97 01:03:41 MDT (Tue)
From: rcd at raven.talisman.com (Dick Dunn)
Subject: re: Don't use your homegrown hops for brewing

Mostly I don't like to respond extremely, nor to extremism, but this one
really blisters my buns...
"Don Van Valkenburg" <DONVANV at msn.com> wrote:
> In response to the subject of using homegrown hops in your brewing--Don't.

In response to this advice: Ignore it.  It's written by somebody who's got
a feather up his butt about something...who knows what or why?, but he's
decided to shoot off his e-mouth without thought or substantiation.

> First of all, if you don't live between 30 and 50 degrees latitude your hop 
> plants will probably not grow very well,...

Ah, very nice.  Well, since the entirety of England (save the Channel
Islands) is north of 50 degrees, I guess they can't grow hops very well.
Forget Fuggles; they're a myth.  Forget East Kent Goldings; couldn't
possibly matter.  I guess England doesn't make beer.  Pity, that.

Or forget Van Valkenburg since he's a mouth without a brain.  Take your
choice.  A nation and several centuries, or one mouth.

>...or if they do will not produce 
> sufficient resin (where the essential oils come from) to have any flavor.  

 ...as if you couldn't tell by looking at the hops, and smelling and tasting.

> Second, if you are in a good region of the country to grow hops, how do you 
> know what the resulting alpha/beta acids are?...

But if you're anything but a drooling techno-droid, do you care?  Do you
think you can't use good hops unless you have made some nit-picky measure-
ments?

If you can grow decent hops (and your crop will tell the result), use them!
Alpha and beta measurements are information, nothing more.  If you want to
know why your hops work well, or don't, the measurements may help you find
the answer...but (as others have already pointed out) if you don't know the
numbers, the hops will still work if they're good.  Look at the plants.
Look at the cones.  Pick them, pull them apart, smell them.  THINK! Learn!

> Bottom line is enjoy growing your homegrown hop plants like you would any 
> other ornamental yard plant, but don't use them for brewing...

Yes, don't think you can farm.  Don't think you can do anything without the
Big Corporate Agribusiness.  Don't think you can be independent.

WHAT IS THIS CRAP?  Somebody somewhere is scared of the idea that brewers
can brew beer without sucking up to some big business.  Well, too bad.

I've done fine with my own hops...took a bit of experimentation at first,
but worked out great.

Suggestion to HBD:  Grow yer own hops, and brew on.
Suggestion to Van Valkenburg:  If you have no idea what you're talking
about, silence is a viable alternative.
- ---
Dick Dunn       rcd, domain talisman.com       Boulder County, Colorado  USA
   ...Boulder was.

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Date: Sat, 19 Jul 1997 09:25:13 +0200
From: "Terry Tegner" <tegbrew at aztek.co.za>
Subject: 25L stainless steel barrels

Hi all from South Africa.
I have been offered 25L stainless steel barrels (+/- 6 gals US) for the
equivalent of US$7.00 each.  They are non pressure and measure 12 inches
diameter by about 20 inches tall.  My question is if the chemical that they
originally contained was toxic or should I not even worry.  The chemical in
question is  "polythene glycol" made by Merck Pharmaceuticals.  The reason
they are available is that, although they are returnable, from SA it's just
not economical. All advice gratfully received.
Regards
Terence "Phail" Tegner.



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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 07:50:40
From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com>
Subject: tiny mosses with big brains

In HBD#2467, Mark Nelson says:
>Sean and Dave both wrote that the brains effect might have been caused by
>Irish Moss in the brew.  In my case, I used the normal amount of Irish Moss
>(maybe 1/2 teaspoon for the 5 gallon batch), but got *lots* of brains. 
>Several baseball-sized clumps of grey matter.  I don't think the 1/2 tsp of
>Irish Moss could have caused this, right?

I consistantly see these big flocs when using even small amounts of irish
moss, and have an entry in my notebook from the very first time I used IM,
wondering just what this funky stuff in my fermenter was.

I think there are two factors which account for the apparent huge size of
the clumps:

1. The clumps aren't just irish moss - it's a complex of irish moss,
proteins the irish moss are removing, hot break and cold break.

2. The clumps are loose and swollen with water.  If you collect them (hard
to do because they're soft and slimy) and remove most of the water, they
don't really  have as much volume as first appears.
- ---
Dave Whitman          "The opinions expressed are those of the author, and not
dwhitman at rohmhaas.com  Rohm and Haas Co."


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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 08:28:22 -0400
From: "Schultz, Steven W." <swschult at CBDCOM-EMH1.APGEA.ARMY.MIL>
Subject: Helles Recipe Wanted

I recently had the pleasure of drinking the Helles bier made by the
Baltimore Brewing Company, and thought it was every bit as good as what
I've had on draft in Bavaria.  A wonderful, quaffable brew; malty but
balanced by just enough bitterness.

I'd love to try making a clone of this, and if anyone has a clue as to
the recipe, please post it to the HBD or to me privately.

Thanks in advance.

Steve Schultz



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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 97 08:25:21 est
From: paa3983 at dpsc.dla.mil (Mike Spinelli)
Subject: New 7 gallon Gott coolers

HBDers,
My local Home Depot is selling these new 7 gallon size orange Gott coolers for
around $23 bucks.

Mike Spinelli 
Cherry Hill  NJ


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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 14:42:55 +200
From: "Braam Greyling" <braam.greyling at azona.co.za>
Subject: Recipe for Vienna lager wanted

Hi,

The next beer I want to brew is a real Vienna lager.
I have got the following malts: 
Weyermann	Pilsner(pale)
			Vienna brewmalt
			Munich brewmalt
			Caramunch 2  (Crystal malt)
			Wheat
			Smoked

I was thinking of using about 80% Vienna, 10% Pilsner, 7%Munich and 
3% Caramunch.
Please advise whether you think this would be an appropriate choice.
Also what hops should I use and most importantly what yeast should I 
use. I was thinking of Wyeast Bavarian lager yeast.
If you have any recommendations or can send me your recipe, please 
dont hestitate. Also: should the water be hard or soft ?

TIA

Braam Greyling    I.C. Design Engineer
Azona(Pty)Ltd     
tel +27 12 6641910  fax +27 12 6641393

You can taste a good beer with one sip, 
but it is better to make thoroughly sure.

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 08:47:15
From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com>
Subject: chili beer

In HBD #246, Brad Sevetson asks:

>And are jalapenos a 
>good choice?  Our waiter told us one time that they use whole jalapenos, 
>lots of them, in the secondary, and since they're never cut open you don't 
>get a high level of spicinesss but the pepper flavor really comes through.  
>Does anyone believe this?

I've never made a chili beer, but I love chilis and can stretch myself to
believe the waiter's story.  

Most of the capsaicin (the main hot componant) is concentrated in the
membrane surrounding the seeds in the center of chilis.  If you don't cut
the chili open, the membrane isn't exposed to your beer and you probably
get less heat, at least for relatively short steeps.  

A perhaps more reliable method would be to cut the jalapenos in half and
trim out the center membrane before using them.  Wash your hands well after
doing this, and DON'T touch your eyes while working.

You might also consider trying something other than jalapenos.  When I want
to be able to use a LOT of chili for flavor and still have a dish be
palatable to the general population, I use anaheims. They have great flavor
and are a bit hot, but not overpowering.

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 08:55:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Some Guy <pbabcock at oeonline.com>
Subject: More on the mysteries of drying hops...

Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...

As I was pondering my navel - er - the COSMOS (yeah! That's better!) this 
morning, I read note after note to the 'Gest about drying their hoppage. 
Most cited a temperature. This led me to pick a wad of lint - er - to the 
realization that some may have the concept a little "off": The key to 
drying is air circulation; not necessary temperature.

Just a thought...

See ya!

Pat Babcock in SE Michigan                pbabcock at oeonline.com
Home Brew Digest Janitor                  janitor@hbd.org
AOL Home Brewing "Maven"                  brewbeerd at aol.com
Ford Manufacturing Engineer               pbabcock.ford at e-mail.com 


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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 13:21:35 +0000 (GMT)
From: HOUCK KEITH A <HOUCK_KEITH_A at LILLY.COM>
Subject: san diego

I will be in San Diego for a very brief visit next week. Can anyone suggest 
any "don't miss" brewpubs? Thanks much.

Keith Houck
Chapel Hill, NC


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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 10:16:14 -0400
From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com>
Subject: Can it, Mead storage

Brewsters:

As others have, Jeff Renner tries to bring a "voice of reason" to this
canned wort for starter/botulism issue:

>". It would seem that theorists are being VERY cautious since
>botulism is so deadly.

Sounds like a good plan to me!

> I think we are safe using canned wort for starters."

Everyone is entitled to his own opinion,as you are.  It just happens to
differ with that of the experts.  Your reasoning that we have never heard=

of it anyone suffering botulism and dying from canned wort, so therefore,=

it must be safe, just doesn't work for me. =


Just to be clear. To my knowledge no one has suggested that canning wort
*correctly* is unsafe, just that canning wort using the boiling water
technique is incorrect and potentially very dangerous.  If  you use
*pressure* canning in which the wort temperature gets high enough to
properly sterilize the canned goods, this is fine. =


Frankly, I don't know why anyone would go to the trouble of canning wort,=

since malt extract is so readily available and reasonably priced. OTOH I
can understand the desire to be self sufficient and respect that. I also
look at the many fiddling things I do, with no complaint,  to make sure m=
y
next batch is great and I understand.  Just be safe.
- -------------------------------------------
Somehow I missed responding to the question about storing mead for a long=

time and have now lost the reference to the author.  Let me say that the
Grolsch-type rubber gaskets are not going to work and I suggest you
re-bottle your mead as the wine it is.  Use the highest quality 13/4 inch=

#9 show quality corks
 ( probably $.50/cork - about 2.5 cents per year per bottle) and dark bro=
wn
wine bottles.  If you don't have a corker, perhaps you can rent or borrow=

one from your HB store.  Store the bottles on their side to keep the cork=
s
wet and swollen.  The real criminal in keeping wine for long periods is
temperature *change*. Changing temperature pumps air into the bottle as t=
he
temperature goes up and down and oxidizes the wine, spoiling it.  Keep yo=
ur
mead cool and in an area of constant temperature.  Likewise keep it in th=
e
dark or even in paper or dark cloth bags as in days of yore.  As you
transfer it to the new bottles, I suggest you make up a solution of 1/4 t=
sp
of sodium or potassium bisulfite for each 5 gallons and put the correct
fractional amount in each bottle before you add your mead.  This will
absorb the oxygen incorporated during the re-bottling and keep the mead
fresher longer.  This practice commonly used in re-bottling fine wines. =

The mead will contain about 60 pm max of sulfite and will dissipate over
time.
- -------------------------------------------

Keep on brewin'


Dave Burley
Kinnelon, NJ 07405
103164.3202 at compuserve.com
Dave_Burley at compuserve.com  =

Voice e-mail OK =


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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 11:53:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: KennyEddy at aol.com
Subject: Re: Mash Tun Manifold -- Plastic or Copper?

Rene' asks about making a manifold for his new mash tun:

"What are the benefits of PVC or Copper tubbing?"

PLEASE DO NOT USE PVC!!

PVC softens at about 150F, right smack in the middle of your operating
temperature range.  While I can't say for sure whether PVC gives up any of
its chemicals as it heats to this point, at minimum you'll have problems with
leakage and warping.

If you want to use plastic, use CPVC.  It's rated for potable water up to
180F.  I use CPVC plumbing on my Plastic Electric Brewery, even to boiling
temperatures, with no ill effect.

Copper is a good choice too.  My mash tun has a copper manifold made from
1/2" pipe and fittings.  It's press-fit so it disassembles for thorough
cleaning.  I drilled it with 3/16" holes every 1/4 inch.

*****

Ken Schwartz
El Paso, TX
KennyEddy at aol.com
http://members.aol.com/kennyeddy


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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 10:58:08 -0500
From: dleone at gw.stlnet.com
Subject: low mash efficiency


hi there,
i just completed my third all-grain session and am a bit bummed out by the
mash efficiency.  it has hovered around 50%-55% for all of them.  i am
using a converted coleman 48 qt. cooler with a cpvc mainfold and a sparge
arm that is made of 3/8 plastic water line drilled with 1/32" holes.  i
have carefully ground my grains.  the first and third batches were single
step infusion and the middle batch a two-step infusion.
this latest one seemed at first to be the most promising, as i was able to
get a strike temperature that held the mash at 155 degrees for 1-1/2 hours.
it still did not convert according to my iodine test.  to further confirm
this i had 12#s of grain (10- pale ale, 1 crystal 10L, 1 flaked barley) and
my o.g. was 46.  i mashed with 3 gals and sparged with 7. i lose about
1-1/2 gals in the brewpot (converted keg) by boiling off and what is left
as sediment in the bottom.  please help.  private mail preferred, but not
required.  thanks a bunch.
"love animals, don?t eat them"
don leone
dleone at pd.stlnet.com
http://home.stlnet.com/~dleone/index.html
http://home.stlnet.com/~dleone/portfolio.html



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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 11:40:57 -0500 (CDT)
From: Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net>
Subject: chiles / eisbock

Greetings,

Bradley Sevetson writes:
> I want to make a nice summer chili beer...

I've never made chili beer, but I make chili from fresh chiles.

Spelling note: chili, chilli, chilly, and chile are all used in
English.  I personally use "chile" for the peppers, like (most)
Spanish-speakers do, and "chili" for the meat dish, which is American.
So I guess if *I* made a "chili" beer it would include garlic, cumin,
Mexican oregano and beef, but yours probably wont! :-)

> But how do you do the peppers?  And are jalapenos a 
> good choice?

Should be, for a "Tex-Mex" flavor.

Since you're working in the secondary, you might split a test batch
and try several peppers and/or blends, see what you like.

In my chili I use poblanos (mellow flavor, less heat), serranos
(hotter than jalapenos, sharp flavor) and occasionally habaneros
(extremely hot, sharp fruity tang).  Sometimes I cook up a batch to
keep in the fridge, and I don't use habaneros -- they all keep
releasing capsicum (heat) into the chili, and BOY do those habaneros
heat things up!  Habaneros have (if I recall right) about 20 times as
much capsicum in them as jalapenos do.  HOT HOT HOT and very tasty.

I've seen people comment that, with a pepper in the bottle, their beer
got almost too hot to drink.  Since you're specifically NOT wanting
strong heat, I'd avoid that approach.

Dried peppers are generally smoked (I mean that's how they're dried,
not how they're consumed!).  I've seen comments that people used these
in beer, and it provided another interesting layer of flavor.  I'd
suggest anchos; these widely available peppers are smoke-dried
poblano peppers (poblanos are mild).  DO remove the seeds first to
keep down the heat.  If they aren't flexible enough for this to be
easy, they aren't fresh.

Anyway, the point is, they all have distinct flavors, not just
different levels of heat.  Look for references on chiles, either in
the library or on the net.  Email me for pointers.

> Our waiter told us one time that they use whole jalapenos, 
> lots of them, in the secondary, and since they're never cut open you don't 
> get a high level of spicinesss but the pepper flavor really comes through.  
> Does anyone believe this?

Sounds reasonable.  The meat has the flavor, the seeds and innards
have most of the heat.  For a short steep, the whole chiles might
provide less transfer of the capsicum oil.  For a long steep, the
complete absence of seeds in the deseeded ones might give more flavor
and less capsicum.

WARNING: if you cut open the peppers in preparation, WASH YOUR HANDS
AFTERWARD WITH SOAP.  You will NOT enjoy getting the least trace of
chile oil on your eyes or mucous membranes, and it's a sticky oil.  A
water rinse won't get it all off.  (This is a chile-head shouting at
you, there's no wimp factor involved here.)  Wash thoroughly, get
under the fingernails, after handling cut-open chiles.  Habaneros I
often use gloves with, and then wash up after taking them off.

But Don't Worry, just take a little care, just like keeping your
equipment clean.

If you have trouble finding a selection of peppers, look for groceries
that cater to a Mexican/Latino clientele.  Ground peppers are a last
resort; the flavor oils evaporate faster than the capsicum.

I'm afraid you're going to have to experiment, Bradley.  A lot.  Hic.

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Someone else posted:

> I have an eisbock in the primary fermenter right now and would like 
> suggestions on the lagering and freezing process. First, is the freezing 
> and removal of ice done before or after lagering?
 ...
> Chapel Hill, NC
               ^^ (USA address, so comment on US laws is applicable)

Do be advised that concentrating an alcoholic beverage at home (by
distilling OR freezing) is against US Federal regulations.  (I think
they're stupid regulations, but there they are.)

I understand commercial "Ice" beer is regulated so that any water
removed by freezing must be replaced by just as much water before they
sell it -- the freezing is to condition it somehow, I think impurities
are supposed to filter out with the ice.

Perhaps that's what you're intending to do, I don't know that much
about eisbock.

I would guess that, outside a regulated brewery, the Feds will take
the stance that you're concentrating the beverage, and what you plan
to do with it later (like water it down) is irrelevant.

Is anyone familiar with specific regulations and actual enforcement?

Is it likely that BATF would bust down your door for homebrewing an
eisbock?  How small does the chance have to be?  That's YOUR call.

Best brewing to all,
Sam Mize

- -- 
Samuel Mize -- smize at imagin.net -- Team Ada

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 09:25:12 -0600
From: Paul R Buettner <paulr at dzn.com>
Subject: First time kegging help needed

Greatings all:
I just bought a keg system from my local brew shop and need some advice.
do I add sugar or not?  I have had several different people tell me to add
sugar (1/3 cup), then again I have had several poeple tell me to just apply
30lbs pressure and shake the keg untill I am dizzy, then chill to 45 deg.
Anyone out there willing to help out?
Paul

       Paul R. Buettner
       paulr at dzn.com
         El Paso  Texas


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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 12:43:23 -0400
From: Eric Tepe <tepee0 at chmcc.org>
Subject: culturing yeast

Mark Battreall asks about culturing yeast from the smack packs.

Once I smack the pack and let the pack swell (usually 24 hours), using
sound aseptic technique (I work in a lab) I immediately streak 2 malt agar
slants.  I let them grow for 2-3 days at room temperature then store in the
refrigerator for up to 6 months before re-slanting.  If you get good at this
technique you should only have to buy the yeast once because you can
keep re-culturing it over time.

Good Luck!
Eric R. Tepe

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 97 13:05:00 -0500
From: "Decker, Robin E." <robind at rmtgvl.rmtinc.com>
Subject: Re: Congratulations!!


>>>For those of you wondering why there have not been any posts from Al
K the past few days -- he was busy picking up a medal for his mead at
the convention.  And at long last, George Fix won homebrewer of the
year.  <<<

Congratulations to George and Al!!  Hopefully, one or both will report on 
the festivities for those of us who were too impoverished to attend.... 
please guys?

Goldings
visit our web page:  www.biermeisters.com

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 13:20:17 -0400
From: rhampo at ford.com (Rich Hampo)
Subject: suction break tube

Hi,

Rene asks about a "suction break tube"

I have a slotted copper manifold in my lauter tun with a tube that leads to 
the top of the lauter tun. I like it for two reasons.

1) After dumping the mash into the lauter tun, I can underlet it
	(and clear out the slots) by uncorking the tube and
	pouring in a few cups of sparge water.

2) Whan the mash sticks (only once so far) you can do the same trick:
	Turn off the outflow valve, pour sparge water in the tube 
	to flush out the slots. THis worked like a charm for me.

Just remember to keep the tube corked during normal lautering or it will
likely suck air in and  cause HSA.

My manifold is 1/2" copper tubing - straight pieces, elbows, and tees. 
It is just pressed together (not soldered) for easy cleaning. It is shaped
so that it fits tightly in the bottom of the tun - this keeps it from 
coming apart unexpectedly.

Brew on!

Richard Hampo
H&H Brewing Ltd.

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 10:46:20 -0700
From: Todd.Etzel at eos.lmco.com (Todd Etzel)
Subject: Gott cooler sources

     I occassionally see questions about where you can find the cylindrical 
     Gott style coolers, and I just happened to get a catalog that sells 
     them. The company name is Consolidated Plastics Co, and their number 
     is 800-362-1000. They list a 3 gal model for $39.65, 5 gal for 49.85, 
     and a 10 gal for 68.20.
     
     Also, the local Home Depot has a 7 gal model on sale for around $20.
     
     Todd Etzel

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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 15:35:58 -0700
From: brewshop at coffey.com (Jeff Sturman)
Subject: yakima hops?

Bridgeport Brewing's home page lists Yakima as one of the hop varieties
used in their IPA.  I can't seem to find any info on this hop.  Any help?
Any good substitutes?  Is Yakima Magnum the same thing?  And what is a good
substitute for Ultra?  Just had the BB IPA last week for the first time.
Tastiest IPA I've ever had.  Hops all over place.  yummy

jeff
casper, wy



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Date: Tue, 22 Jul 1997 16:44:25 -0700
From: dwhitwell at foxcomm.net (David Whitwell)
Subject: Water Chemistry

O Great Brewing Collective:

I have questions about water chemistry.  I recently obtained an analysis of
the water at a city well I plan to draw my water from.  As the city's water
is chlorinated and fluoridated, they provide, from several wells, water
that is not treated, but is tested regularly.

I recently started using Brewer's Workshop, which lets me add the default
values for several ions, and then makes suggestions for additions based on
the style being brewed, or the style of water of a particular famous
brewing city.

The figures are as follows:
Chloride:	5.7
Sulfate:		12
Calcium:	22
Magnesium:	9.6
Hardness:	94
TDS:		150

I list these because they, along with Sodium and Carbonate, are the ions
asked for in Brewer's Workshop.  When I called the city, they said they
would send me a more recent summary that included Sodium, but that they
didn't measure Carbonate.  However, their summary listed "Hardness, CACO3".
 Does this mean that "hardness" is a measure of Calcium Carbonate?  If so,
can I extrapolate the measure of Carbonate somehow?  If not, what do I do?

I also noticed that zinc was not detected at a detection limit of 0.050.  I
seem to recall that trace amounts of zinc are necessary for yeast health. 
Do I need to worry?


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