---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  Re: Point 11. / roasted Barley question ("Hubert Hanghofer")
  Re: Your response to my HBD Post (Jack Schmidling)
  Dammit, Jim, I'm Giving Her All She's Got! ("Rob Moline")
  Predicting %AA, Ooops (Kyle Druey)
  Re: protein rests, clove flavor and yeast storage ("Steve Alexander")
  RE: PET bottle label removal (Pvrozanski)
  Distilled H20 yeast storage (Dave Whitman)
  Floor Malting (Randy Lee)
  Daniels and Belgians (Keith Busby)
  free Guinness glass ("Bret A. Schuhmacher")
  yeast for big beers (Andrew Stavrolakis)
  HBD and the quoted-printable saga! (kfl)
  need plate chiller gaskets (Ken Toney)
  Wyeast 3942 (EFOUCH)
  PET bottle label removal (Roger Kohles)
  Brewing Techniques mag (AlannnnT)
  O2 absorbing caps... ("bern \"call me bern\" neumann")
  Re: EXTRACT Tips please, Part 1 ("Charles L. Ehlers")
  Re: EXTRACT Tips please, Part 2 ("Charles L. Ehlers")
  RE: welding copper to stainless ("Dustin H. Norlund")
  Phils Lautertun (Wayne and Cathy)




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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 05:24:21 +0100
From: "Hubert Hanghofer" <hhanghof at netbeer.co.at>
Subject: Re: Point 11. / roasted Barley question

Hi collegues,

The translation of Kunze's international edition caused confusion, so 
Tidmarsh Major did the right thing and asked for help from Austria.
;-)

> > 11.  "Hop addition not too early-malt polyphenols should react"
> 
> Does anyone have the original German edition available?
> Perhaps a look at the source would help.  I know a little bit of
> German (probably just enough to add to the confusion) but perhaps
> our collegue Herr Hanghofer from Austria (and any other continental
> contributors to the digest) could help us out.

I'm so honored and motivated to have the reputation of a 
"contributor" after a few humble posts in just one year.

But sorry - I don't (yet) have the original edition available. I own
the standard literature of the other German clan - my son choosed to
study only 100 miles away in Weihenstephan, not in Berlin. But I will
be trying to get hold of it and I have forwarded the articles to
others.

The thread is really interesting, but I'm a bit to slow to join 
 - consider I've to read / write in English but have to *think* in
German.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

OUTING:

 ...Yes, I love them all: Porters, Stouts, IPA's... - they add so much
contrast to the "usual" Lagers and Wheats that we use to drink and
brew here. After having some success with an IPA I'd like to try my
hand on Stouts. The difficult part is to get special grains (here in
Austria). I'm a poor boy and so I get my base malts directly from the
maltster. Importing specialties via HB-shops is no way for me (and no
challenge, too).

So I need to get some help from the collective:

Does anyone have experience with roasting barley at home?
Do I need a special barley strain?

Hey, I'm specialist in sealing erlenmeyers with burning cotton 
plugs - so roasting barley won't hurt me ;-)

THIA, CHEERS &
sehr zum Wohle!

Hubert, brewing in Salzburg, Austria
http://www.netbeer.co.at/beer/

Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 22:45:57 -0800
From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net>
Subject: Re: Your response to my HBD Post

Danny Breidenbach wrote:  (email)

" you did sound harsh, and I did read (and follow) the directions that
came with the  EasyMasher.

Funny you should feel that way. After posting that, I read over the
instructions and made a few changes to get a bit more specific and
apologize for sounding harsh.  As it was a public "harsh", I am
cross-posting this to the HBD as a public apology.

Having said that, "Brewing With the EASYMASHER" instructs to heat
up the sparge water while the mash is settling. This would provide the
needed rest period as it takes at least ten minutes to get two quarts
of water boiling on a stove.  I should have made a point about the
need for the rest.

The "Installation Instructions" describe the clearing of a clogged
screen by blowing on it.

These two "details" could have saved you the hassle.

" --Pardon my ignorance of fluid flow and pressure, etc. but what's
"head" mean when talking about "given sufficient head."  If it's the hose
attached to the spigot -- is more than two feet bad?

No.  The more the better.  Head is simply the distance between the
top of the water and the bottom of the hose.

" Try as I might, I couldn't make the hose to spigot connection airtight
 (using a 3/8" ID hose, as per the directions).  Would that hurt.

If air enters the stream, that boogy man HSA can rear it's ugly head.
I believe someone has already pointed out the "parting line" on the
forging as a potential problem.  If it is unduly high, just file it
down to make a smooth surface.

" That's even with the inside copper tube rotated so the intake is above
 the outlet of the apigot.  When it's rotated down near the bottom of the
 kettle, I think most impartial observers would characterize the flow as
 a "trickle."

There is obviously something wrong as it should make no difference
whatever how the tube in rotated.  Unless of course, the kettle is
near empty and you are trying to get it started.  In that case, if
the strainer is below the spigot, you have to consider it as a syphon
because it has to lift the water and will not run at all with out
suking on it.  If it is that empty, you are done anyway.

" Here's what I'd like to know --- Is there some sort of test we can do 
to make sure there's not something wrong with the outlet on my EM?  
Shouldn't clear water come out faster? 

You really need to qunatize things.  Faster is not very helpful.

Fill the kettle and open the spigot and time a gallon.  I don't recall
the number but more than 5 minutes would surprise me.

" Or is this related to the "sufficient head" thing?

Most assuridly.  If you take your two foot hose and hold the end
near the top of the kettle, nothing will flow.  It's a poor man's
spigot.  Put the end of the hose 2 feet below the spigot and you
will get max flow.  Everything in between is linearly related to the
height of the END of the hose.

" Second -- what's your response to the advice that I put a ball valve 
on the outlet?  I don't like it because the EM is supposed to work!

I would have to suggest that 10,000 users replace our spigot with one
that "works", when it fact the one you have (should) works.

For what it's worth, I have been making 10 gallon batches with that
spigot for about 5 years.  My sparge time is about 30 minutes for
12 gallons of wort.  I have the same spigot on my sparge water tank
and my brew kettle, in addition to the mash tun.

Trust me, it works.  Send it back and I will cheerfully send you a
new one if it does not pass the above test.

js

- -- 
Visit our WEB pages: 
                        Beer Stuff.........  http://ays.net/jsp
                        Astronomy.......  http://user.mc.net/arf
             ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday


Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 01:06:06 -0600
From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net>
Subject: Dammit, Jim, I'm Giving Her All She's Got!

Dammit, Jim, I'm Giving Her All She's Got!!

>Subject: Rob's HopDevil comments
>As 
>for Gold medals, there remains a serious debate about attending the 
>GABF as it is a somewhat costly event for such a small and locally 
>oriented brewery as Victory Brewing Co.  

Jim, 
	Enter one beer...the HopDevil....cost, if last years prices
remain....$105.......send no personell, hence no other costs....(like you
won't be there anyway!)....
	I will state this...I will personally buy the entry of this fine brew into
the GABF this year if you will provide the keg, and get it to the
distribution point. and send the bottles to the PPBT....
	Thats my opinion of your beer...

	Now, when you win the medal, you will reimburse me, and provide me with a
years supply of your product..

	Good Lord knows, there was no smaller, nor more locally focused brewery
than the LABCO. and hell, I paid for most of their entries, and got shafted
as a result, but now I can pay for your entry...and guaranteed, bask in
your glory! And drink your beer for a year, (if you accept!)

	"Dammit, Jim, she's giving all she's got!!!"

********************************************************************

Cult Member...."What would you rather have...perfect peace and
contentment...or beer?"
Homer Simpson......."What kind of Beer?"

	*******Disclaimer......I have no interest in this brewery, nor am likely
to receive any bloody thing other than a free years beer, if they win
anything.... But Damn, they do brew good beer!**********

Jethro (Scotty) Gump
Rob Moline
Brewer
Court Avenue Brewing Company
Des Moines, Iowa
brewer at ames.net
Ames, Iowa.

"The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About
Beer!"




Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 15:20:15 -0800
From: Kyle Druey <druey at ibm.net>
Subject: Predicting %AA, Ooops

>From: "Riedel, Dave" <RiedelD at dfo-mpo.gc.ca>
>Subject: Datapoints for the Druey Equation or..?

Dave, thanks for trying out my %AA equation when using the 60/70 mash
schedule.  I hope it didn't ruin your Viena Lager by having it come out
a little high on the FG.

For those of you who don't remember, this equation will estimate the
amount of time needed to rest at 140 F to produce a desired %AA.    When
I originally posted my equation, I was lectured by a couple of HBD
xpurtz that predicting %AA with a one factor equation was not possible. 
There were many more factors involoved such as yeast strain,
fermentation temperature, fermentor geometry, yeast viability, wort
oxygen levels at pitching, etc. etc. etc.  

>For the Dunkel, I wanted to go from 1.053 to 1.014-15; Kyle's linear
>model said: 26-28 min at 60C/140F and 62-64 min at 70C/158F.  
>SG              1.053 
>OG              1.014 (2 wks later) - now lagering at ~2C/34F

This isn't too bad.  The new super improved exponential model estimates
a mash time of 29' (such precision :>)  at  140 to hit an FG of 1.014.

>For the Vienna, I wanted 1.050 to 1.010; Druey's new and improved
>exponential said use 60 min  at  60C/140F and 30 min  at  70C/158F.   
>SG              1.051
>FG              1.015  (ferment only lasted about 1 week; racked after

Ooops, looks like we missed a little.  Don't know why.  I did notice
that you had quite a bit more stewed malt in this batch than the
previous one, adding unfermentables to the finished beer.  Without doing
a residual sugar analysis it is hard to tell whether or not the yeast
pooped out.  Dave, you now have two data points with your system, I hope
you continue to try this method for estimating %AA and collect more
data.

FWIW, I have done two brews since I published the new exponential model,
here are the results:

Oatmeal Stout:  OG 48, design FG 16, 14'  at  140 F, actual FG 17
Bavarian Weissbier:  OG 48, design FG 8, 90'  at  140 F, actual FG 7 

Both brews missed a little, but did pretty darn good at hitting my
design FG.  I did do a residual sugar test on each beer to confirm the
end of fermentation.

>Kyle's offering a snake-oil equation? :)

YMMV!  The only reason I developed the equation is because I had not run
across any references on how to predict FG other than Noonan's 1/4
gravity rule of thumb, which to me was not satisfactory for beer design
purposes.  Another point to add is that the equation is also
system/process dependent.  Electric element RIMSers may not achieve the
same results as direct fire RIMSers, etc.

>Writing nearly as much as my namesake Mr. Burley, but resisting the urge
>to summarize everything and recommend Clinitest ;^)

I have to admit that I blew off the Clinitest claims until Burley
suggested I try it.  I know this method has been pooh poohed by some HBD
xpurtz, but it is easy to use and gives me 'homebrew' level of testing
accuracy to confirm the end of fermentation.  Andy Walsh had a post
where he did some excellent testing on the effectiveness of Clinitest to
identify residual sugars in beer.  From what I remember, he did not
exactly give Clinitest an endorsement.  Give it a try for $9 for a 50
tablet test bottle (you need to special order it at your pharmacy).  You
be the judge.  Now I am going to use Clinitest, my hydrometer, and
identify when the yeast begins to drop to determine the end of
fermentation.  Since I use open fermentation, the bubble test is not an
option.

Thanks to everyone who sent me information on malt modification and
protein rests.  All the posts and private emails totaled 18 pages in MS
Word, and still growing thanks to George DP! 

Good brewing to all,

Kyle Druey
in the eye of El Nino, Bakersfield, CA

Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 02:51:50 -0500
From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: protein rests, clove flavor and yeast storage 

Tidmarsh Major asks about protein rests and chill haze
>> 11. "Hop addition not too early-malt polyphenols should react"
>
>Also, while I'm still not convinced that protein rests are necessary, I
>will quibble with George's interpretation of Kunze that all protein rests
>are detrimental. 

I believe that Ludwig Narziss at Weinstephan also eschews the 45C to
55C temp range with modern malts.  I think that this was mentioned
in a G.Fix thread here some time ago, possibly by Charlie Scandrett.
In any case Kunze is not the only source of this idea.

As for the malt phenol reactions before hop additions - this idea
appears in many sources.  There may be some basis for this as the malt
polyphenols do not bind as readily to proteins as some of the hops
gallate phenols.  But then the idea might be to link and later
crosslike the malt polyphenols and some proteins and thus leave the
polyphenols in the break matter or as sediment.  More of an educaed
WAG than information.

Samuel Mize asks about Weissbier with clove character
>Three questions:
>Is there anything else I should be doing to encourage this character?

The clove flavor is primaily from 4-vinyl guaiacol, which is formed by
certain yeasts from ferulic acid.  To maximize the 4VG, you should
maximize the ferulic acid and then choose a yeast with a good ability
to perform the conversion.

If you were mashing, then a rest at around 45C(113F) can help to
produce extra ferulic enzymatically. Wheat or wheat malt may be a
richer source of ferulic than barley or barley malt.  If you are
extract brewing, then you have no control over the content, except by
choice of extract.

As for yeasts, in the one study for which I have data, 4 weizen yeasts
varied in 4VG production by a factor of 18.  I don't have specific
yeast recommendations, but someone posted to HBD recently about
several non-wyeast strains that the poster felt were stronger 4VG
producers than the wyeast varieties.  Also fermentation temps around
20C/68F are optimal for 4VG production.

>Does serving temperature significantly affect perception of this?
Yes, IMO the clove flavor drops off at too low temperatures, tho' not
radically.  Also the ester aromas which are common in good weizens
become relatively more prominant at higher temps.

>What commercial wheat beers have this character? My Michael Jackson book
[...]
Fresh weizens.  The 4VG decays into relatively flavorless comopunds in
a matter of months.  The half-life for 4VG in beer is about 60 days at
18C, 27 days at 37C.  If Tucher Weizen had no clove flavor, find
another retailer with fresher stock, not another beer.

Troy Hager asks about Long term yeast storage in distilled H2O
>Are other people doing this?

I've tried this several times with lager yeasts in the past year.  So
far I'm not very impressed with the outcome.  The yeast strain can be
resusitated without a problem - so it is a successful technique.  My
concern is that I must step-up this culture repeatedly to get a heathy
sized yeast crop.  Most of the yeast seem to die during storage.  I
should mention that I wash or separate the yeast using water before
storage.  I have since read that this cleaning should be reserved
until just before you wish revive the yeast.

Steve Alexander



Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 06:09:21 -0600
From: Pvrozanski at ra.rockwell.com
Subject: RE: PET bottle label removal


To remove the labels I fill the bottles with hot tap water, wait a couple
minutes and then peel the label off. To remove the adhesive I've used
either WD40 (no kidding, it works!) or a citrate based cleaner like "GOO
GONE" or "DISOLVE IT". I've seen these two products at hardware stores.
After you use the adhesive remover wash the outside of the bottle with
detergent.

ALEman



Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 07:57:32 -0500
From: Dave Whitman <dwhitman at rohmhaas.com>
Subject: Distilled H20 yeast storage

In recent HBDs there has been interest in sterile water yeast storage.

I've been maintaining 6 yeast cultures this way for about 2 1/2 years now,
reculturing every 6 months.  Seems to work very well, and my (admittedly
untrained) palate can't detect differences in taste/quality of the beer I
get using the stored yeasts.  During the past 2.5 years, I've had to
replace one culture that just didn't wake up the next time I went to use it
(Wyeast Irish Ale).  Don't know what went wrong; I've got a fresh sample of
that yeast which seems to be storing well.

I did a write up of the procedure which is archived at the Brewery web site:

http://hbd.org/brewery/library/SterileDW1096.html

Dave Whitman  dwhitman at rohmhaas.com
"Opinions expressed are those of the author, and not Rohm and Haas Company"

Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 07:39:24 -0600
From: Randy Lee <rjlee at imation.com>
Subject: Floor Malting

unless Mary Ann Gruber has changed jobs recently, she is with Briess
Malting not A-B...

I've never brewed with floor malted barley, but i've gotten samples of
and I can tell you that the difference in appearence is night and day.
The floor malted stuff is *much* nicer looking malt. fat, plump, real
good tasting... but like I say, I don't know if the performace is
different.

Randy Lee
Viking Brewing Company
Dallas, WI.
http://www.win.bright.net/~results
results at win.bright.net

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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 08:26:43 -0600
From: Keith Busby <kbusby at ou.edu>
Subject: Daniels and Belgians

Phil Wilcox reminds us that Ray Daniels' _Designing Great Beers_ does not
deal with Belgian styles. This struck me when I purchased the book as an
extraordinary omission. How can you not mention the country which produces
the finest beers in the world? It's like writing a book on cheese and not
mentioning France. And not even a word in the Preface or anywhere else as
to why Belgians are omitted.

Keith Busby


Keith Busby
George Lynn Cross Research Professor
University of Oklahoma
Center for Medieval and Renaissance Studies
780 Van Vleet Oval, Room 202
Norman, OK 73019
Tel.: (405) 325-5088
Fax: (405) 325-0103

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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 08:00:59 -0700
From: "Bret A. Schuhmacher" <bas at healthcare.com>
Subject: free Guinness glass

Someone just sent me this phone number for a free Guinness pint glass.
I called it and left my name and address - it sounded legit.

call 888-642-PINT for a free Guinness pint glass.

Rgds,

Bret
Bad Dog Brewery
Montrose, CO
- --
Saliva causes cancer, but only if swallowed in small amounts over a long
period of time.
		-- George Carlin

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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 10:42:57 -0500
From: Andrew Stavrolakis <andrew_stavrolakis at harvard.edu>
Subject: yeast for big beers


Ken Schwartz reports on nottingham dry yeast performance in big beers:

     OG = 1.092
     FG  = 1.017

noting it's 82% apparent attenuation, and goes on to attribute it to his
"total ineptitude in acheiving a respectable mash temperature; I hovered
right around 150F which resulted in a very fermentable wort."  

Don't be so hard on yourself, Ken!

I've noted the following results using nottingham dry:

Beer   Pitch Rate     Sacc Temp       OG      FG      AA      

1     1 pkt/gallon    150F           1.079    1.012    85%        
2     1 pkt/gallon    160            1.102    1.020    80%
3     1 pkt/2.5 gal   158            1.062    1.010    84%
4     1 pkt/gal       150            1.085    1.014    84%
5     1 pkt/1.5 gal   155            1.057    1.010    82%
6     1 pkt/1.5 gal   152            1.062    1.010    84%

1 packet=7 grams, I believe.  This yeast seems very highly attenuative,
regardless of mash temp.  It's also a flocculant but vigorous nay, even
violent, fermenter, all while maintaining a very neutral flavor profile.  As
you can see, I've pitched at very high rates, and I think this is a key to
successfully fermenting heavy beers (or any beer for that matter).  None of
these had any trouble conditioning in the bottle.  This yeast in my
experience has been very consistent in its performance, and I find myself
using it more and more.  Dry yeast has the advantage of allowing you to
easily pitch adequate amounts to successfully ferment heavy beers.  Yes, I
do use liquid yeast, but more and more only for my lagers.

Cheers,

Andrew
Boston, MA
andrew_stavrolakis at harvard.edu          


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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 11:52:42 -0600 (CST)
From: kfl at umr.edu
Subject: HBD and the quoted-printable saga!

Well folks, the quoted-printable posts to the HBD has finally been dealt
with.  This is the infamous "=" characters throughout certain peoples
posts.  I've discovered that it is not always their mailer doing it, but
rather the mail transfer agent converting the email to quoted-printable. 
I've been searching for a filter that I could just snag and put in place,
but every single one of them had certain limitations, plus other 
non-desirable aspects.  So, I wrote one.  It is RFC compliant if anyone 
cares, except in one aspect: only ASCII characters will be interpreted.  
Any character that is quoted that has a decimal character value greater 
than 127 is thrown out.  Sorry, but we must maintain ASCII services only.

Later, I will be adding additional features to the filter, like properly 
parsing and dealing with multi-part mime messages and possibly other 
Content-transfer-encoding issues.  But for now, Dave Burley's and other 
folks will see their posts in a different light.  

Back to beer talk...



============================================================================
Karl F. Lutzen                     | Computing and Information Services 
Scientific Programmer Analyst II   | University of Missouri - Rolla
E-Mail: kfl at umr.edu                | 114 Math-Computer Science Bldg.    
Fax:    (573) 341-4216             | 1870 Miner Circle                  
Voice:  (573) 341-4841             | Rolla, MO  65409-0360              
============================================================================


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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 10:30:24 -0800 (PST)
From: kentoney at wolfenet.com (Ken Toney)
Subject: need plate chiller gaskets

Time to un-lurk and solicit the collective appealing to the great wealth of
contained knowledge.
 I have been given a 24 plate milk chiller which I am planning to use as a
wort chiller but it is in 'basket-case' conditon AND I NEED GASKETS. So far
3 companys have struck out so I'm coming to the HBD to hopefully locate a
source.
The label  reads    a PREMIUM type
                  Stainless Steel Plate
                     Milk Pre-Cooler        there is an 'A' with a small 3
                       Model M-350          on the cross bar of the A as a 
logo.
                     Serial No.A-375

The plate dimensions  4 3/4" x 24 3/4"
The frame dimensions  5 3/8" x 25 3/4"

This is a real cutie and will be perfect for my 3bbl gas fired system.
Private e-mail is great, send to  kentoney at wolfenet.com

Ken Toney
Harwood Brewing
Yakima, WA  (the western hemispheres HOP GROUND ZERO)

"The more beers I learn about the thirstier I get"
(Apologies Rob, I couldn't resist!)




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Date: 13 Feb 1998 13:37:29 -0500
From: EFOUCH at steelcase.com
Subject: Wyeast 3942


HBD-
I haven't been able to find any information on Wyeast 3942, Belgian 
Wheat.
What are the characteristics of this yeast?  Does it like to use ferulic 
acid?
Should it be treated like German wheat yeasts, or is it not really a 
clove or
estery developing yeast strain?
Another question about Wyeast- When I first started brewing using dry 
yeasts,
I heard about these liquid yeasts from a company called Wyeast.  When I 
read
the name to myself, and spoke of it to others, I found myself 
automatically
calling it "Y-yeast".  To this day in conversations with people I hear 
them
call it "Y-yeast", even though it's spelled Wyeast.  Granted, "Wyeast" is
harder to say than "Y-yeast".  How wide spread is this?  Is this a 
Midwestern
idiomatic speech deficiency, like saying "Youse guys"?  How do the people
 from
Wyeast pronounce Wyeast?
That wasn't too "scathing" was it?

Eric Fouch
Bent Dick YoctoBrewery (Pronounced - "Eric's Basement")
Kentwood MI
efouch at steelcase.com
PS - I heard a rumor that Al K writes the "Mr. Wizard" columns in BYO ;
)

Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 12:32:21 -0600
From: Roger Kohles <rkohles at navix.net>
Subject: PET bottle label removal

From: "David Russell ph# 82665" <<drussel3 at ford.com>

>>>>

<excerpt>I have been collecting PET

bottles but am unable to remove the adhesive successfully.  I am looking
for

some non-toxic solution to remove the labels (I know lighter fluid would
work).

 Soaking in water gives me no results and rubbing with vegtable oil
(works

somtimes on other adhesives) is unsuccessful.


</excerpt><<<<<<<<


I've been using a product called "Goo Gone".  It is make by a company
called Magic American Corporation.  It says on the bottle "Biodegradable
100% Organic Citrus Based".  The trick is to remove the label under hot
water so that you get all of the label off with just some residual
adhesive left.  Using just a drop or two of the "Goo Gone" on a paper
towel, you can get all of the glue off.  It doesn't seem to damage the
plastic bottle in any way.


Hope this helps.


Lincoln, NE




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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 14:12:57 EST
From: AlannnnT at aol.com
Subject: Brewing Techniques mag

Doug Moyer wrote about how much he liked Brewing Techniques Magazine. Doug, I
just ordered some back issues from them, and boy was I pleased. And if you
order back issues BT doesn't slaughter you with prices like Zymurgy [from the
AHA].  In one of the issues [from 1995] is a device similar [better?] to the
MIXMASHER tm thread from last month. 
I wonder how many articles are in BT because of the HBD, and the exchange of
ideas on the forum. Chicken or egg thread to follow. 

Interesting to note that BYO has many more times the subscription base then
BT. Which mimics the discusion we [the HBD} had last year about 'who' the
average brewer is. The average brewer reads BYO not BT. It's too bad, the
average brewer may not be having as much fun as we are.   BTW I just got the
Jan/Feb issue of BT, and there is a great photo of Keith Royser's RIMS, which
I am clipping out and hanging up next to [on top of] my Farrah Fawcet poster
:) . 

Alan Talman
my new page at http://www.homebrewshop.com
just going up!


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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 14:40:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: "bern \"call me bern\" neumann" <neumbg73 at snyoneva.cc.oneonta.edu>
Subject: O2 absorbing caps...


Will boiling my O2 barrier caps, even for just a minute, destroy the seal
on them and render them useless?

bernie kb2ebe
Middleburgh, NY

www.secretcaverns.com




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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 16:26:06 -0600
From: "Charles L. Ehlers" <clehlers at flinthills.com>
Subject: Re: EXTRACT Tips please, Part 1

<<Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 15:20:37 +1100
From: "David Hill" <davidh at melbpc.org.au>
Subject: EXTRACT Tips please
  It is possible to make beer from extract there must be methods, tips,
practices etc that assist in the making of good beer from extract.
  Any pointers to archives dealing with perfecting Extract beer would be
appreciated.>>

David,
  Having brewed nothing but extract for five years, I think I can give some
advice.  However, much of what's helped me brew better extract comes from
applying all grain wisdom, gleaned from the Homebrew Digest, to my extract
brewing.
  As you also brew all grain you have capabilities that many extract brewers
may not have, specifically, a wort chiller and the ability to do a full
boil.  That' important.  There'll be a Part 2 to this reply which will cover
tips for those who can't do a full boil and don't have a wort chiller.

Ingredients:
  Unless you're looking for an extract from a particular type grain or with
a particular chemistry, I've found generic works just fine.  If you're going
for light color, I strongly recommend LD Carlson Extra Light DME.  I've
found DME generally produces lighter colored beers, while LME seems to
produce a clearer beer.
  I don't recommend corn sugar except to bottle.  If you want to lighten the
body or boost alcohol w/o increasing the body or maltiness, use honey or
rice syrup/rice solids.
  Specialty grains.  I've tried "steeping" by holding at 165 F.  I've also
used the much maligned Charlie Papazian method of starting the grains in
cold water, bringing the water to a boil, and removing the grains just as
the water begins to boil.  Both have worked well and the latter is more
convenient.
  Hops and yeast.  Same as if you're doing all grain.

Procedures:
  Minimum of 60 minute boil is best.  Produces a better hot break, cold
break, and final clarity.
  Just as you begin your all grain full boil with a greater volume than you
want at the end, do the same w/ extract.
  Chill as quickly as possible, and before sparging.

After that, it's no different from all-grain.

Regarding recipes.
I've used the recipes in Papazian's TNCJOHB extensively.  Have used them as
is and also modified them.  Any other all extract all seem to be variations
of those in the book.

The following is something I concocted for my wife who prefers lighter, less
hoppy beers:
Kim's Ale
This recipe is for SIX gallons:
4.2 lb. LD Carlson, Extra-Light DME
3 lb. light clover honey
1 oz Hallertauer Hersbruck hop pellets (bittering)
1/2 ozMount Hood Hop pellets (finishing)
Wyeast 1007 German Ale liquid yeast
Bring water to boil.  Add DME and honey.  Return to boil.  After 15 minutes
add bittering hops.  Boil another 45 minutes (one hour total boil time),
adding finishing hops for the last three minutes.
This recipe would also work well with Wyeast 1056, American Ale, liquid
yeast.  If you are able to lager, use either 2007, Pilsen, or 2272, North
American (finishes beautifully clear.)

This is a recipe for a nice light bodied ale or lager (five gallons):
1 can (3.3 lb.?) Alexander's Pale LME
2 lb. LD Carlson Extra-Light DME
1/2 lb. rice solids
3/4 oz. Cascade hop pellets (bittering)
1/2 oz. Cascade hops (flavor)
Wyeast 1056, American Ale liquid yeast for an ale
Wyeast 2007, Pilsen, or 2272, North American for a lager
Bring water to boil.  Add DME, LME, and rice solids.  Return to boil.  After
15 minutes add bittering hops.  Boil another 35 minutes.  Add the flavor
hops and boil another ten minutes (one hour total boil time).
Chill, sparge.  Pitch yeast.

Hope this helps.  Feel free to E-me if you think I might be able to help.

Charles









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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 16:27:14 -0600
From: "Charles L. Ehlers" <clehlers at flinthills.com>
Subject: Re: EXTRACT Tips please, Part 2

<<Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 15:20:37 +1100
From: "David Hill" <davidh at melbpc.org.au>
Subject: EXTRACT Tips please
  It is possible to make beer from extract there must be methods, tips,
practices etc that assist in the making of good beer from extract.
  Any pointers to archives dealing with perfecting Extract beer would be
appreciated.>>

Many extract brewers can't do a full boil and don't have a wort chiller.
Here's what I recommend for a work-around.
  Use a five gallon pot, minimum.  Start with 2 1/2 -3 gallons of water,
bring to a boil, (remove the specialty grains if you're using them) and add
the extract, honey, rice syrup, etc.  This should put the initial volume at
3 1/2 to 4 gallons.
  Do a minimum of one hour boil.  This is high adventure as 4 gallons of
wort boiling in a 5 gallon pot can boil over easily.  Boil uncovered.
Volume at the end of the boil will be around 3 gallons.
  If you have a wort chiller, use it.  If not, do not sparge the wort while
it's hot.  Add about a gallon's worth of ice to the wort, cover the pot and
put it in a sink or tub of cold water, or, even better, in a snow bank.
After about 30 minutes it will be safe to sparge, through a strainer, but
NOT yet into the fermenter.  Sparge into a bottling bucket (the kind w/ the
outlet for the valve about a half inch off the bottom) and add chilled water
to bring up to the desired final volume of the wort.  Cover loosely.  Over
the next hour the wort will cool some more and trub will settle out.
  Unless you've used a lot of specialty grains, all the trub that's going to
settle out at this point will have done so w/in an hour.  Under no
circumstances let it sit for more than three hours.  Sparge into the
fermenter and pitch the yeast.








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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 18:54:38 -0600
From: "Dustin H. Norlund" <dustin at minibrew.com>
Subject: RE: welding copper to stainless



Copper can be a trick.  Comercial copper has a small percentage of copper
oxide in it.  When heated at welding temperatures this leads to oxide
embrittlement.  I recommend that you should use deoxidized or oxygen free
copper for your trial, this is also true with welding or brazing rod.  I
would recommend either GTAW or GMAW welding for the splice.  This is also
the recommended standard for this type of welding.
GMAW = Gas Metal Arc Welding
GTAW = Gas Tungsten Arc Welding

You could also braze with filler metals such as BAg, BCuP or RBCuZn-A.
What these would do to your wort or to your brain I do not know.

Dustin



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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 20:37:16 -0500
From: Wayne and Cathy <waycathines at wsg.net>
Subject: Phils Lautertun

Long time reader with a question. I am looking form some reviews on the 
Phils Lautertun. I have a gift certificate burning a hole in my pocket and 
was wondering if this would be worth it. I am currently using a converted 
galvanized(outside) Igloo cooler for my infusion mashes. Personal E-mail 
would be fine. waycathines at wsg.net. Thanks



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