HOMEBREW Digest #2673 Sat 28 March 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: Carbohydrates in beer ("Hans E. Hansen")
  Spring house lagering...rims cleaning (william macher)
  Berliner Weisse questions (Jon McCoy)
  Re:Thermostat ("Raymond C. Steinhart")
  Re: RIMS PUMPS ("Raymond C. Steinhart")
  mudbugs (John Bowerman)
  MixMasher observations (Jack Schmidling)
  microscope (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com>
  baker's yeast (ensmingr)
  Element in boiler (Lars Bjornstad)
  Using a handpull beer engine to dispense from corn kegs (Tony Barnsley)
  Picnic Cooler (Forrest Taylor)
  B-Brite Info Needed ("Briden, Thomas")
  Dunkels (Chas Peterson)
  Re: baker's yeast (Jeff Renner)
  Yeast Washing (Lcllamas)
  Neo-prohibitionism (Good work George) ("Tony Quinn")
  Talking Thermometer (Kyle Druey)
  Malto dextrin vs. lactose (Cava Christopher)
  Kolsch Kuestions; win a trip for two to Ireland (kathy)
  hop tea haze (Domenick Venezia)
  RE:Munich Dunkel ("Capt. Marc Battreall")
  Bakers yeast... (Some Guy)
  Proposed USA Federal 0.08 percent driving limit (Samuel Mize)
  Change of heart? (Al Korzonas)
  Acid Malt (Nathan_L_Kanous_Ii/FSU)
  hop tea haze (Al Korzonas)
  Re: distilled water yeats storage (Scott Murman)
  Re: offensive behavior ("Jim & Shelly Wagner")
  Garbage bag fermenting and mudbugs (Heflin)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 26 Mar 98 18:14:02 From: "Hans E. Hansen" <hansh at teleport.com> Subject: Re: Carbohydrates in beer Kevin J MacRae writes: >Does anyone have an idea of the carbs in beer? >I'm not too interested in the calories, just the carbs. I was just thinking about this. This would be of value to diabetics, as well as people like me who are just trying to shed a few pounds. I figured out a few ways of crudely guesstimating carbs, but hopefully those chemists out there can do better. Anyway, here goes: Max carbos could be estimated from the original gravity. i.e. if the beer was 1.045 OG, this would imply that there is the equivalent of 1 pound of sugar per gallon since sugar has 45 'degrees' of extract. (I know, I know. Different carbohydrates could have different gravities. Remember, I am crudely guessing here.). 1 pound of sugar per gallon would be about 450 grams or about 45 grams per 12 oz bottle. I think this would be the outside limit of carbos in the finished beer. I think some of these carbos break down into non-carbo stuff such as CO2, etc., so the actual # of grams would probably be less. (Chemists: please help!) Looking at it from the viewpoint of the finished beer: If you know the finishing gravity and the % alcohol (derived from the starting gravity), you can estimate the residual carbos like above and add to it the carbos from the alcohol. The biggest fly in the ointment here is the finishing gravity is distorted by the alcohol being lighter than the water making up the bulk of the solution. Using this method: 1.011 would imply 1/4 pound of sugar left in solution (see caveats above) per gallon, or about 11 or so grams per bottle. Now for the alcohol component: 1 12 oz bottle is about 1/3 liter, or lets say 350ml (I don't have the exact conversion in front of me). If the beer is 3.0%, this would be 10.5 grams of alcohol, giving the total carbos to be 21.5 grams per bottle. This method probably underestimates the actual content. I use an average of this method and that one in the previous paragraph. Boy, I sure hope someone actually knows the correct answer to this one. Hans E. Hansen hansh at teleport.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 22:57:35 From: william macher <macher at telerama.lm.com> Subject: Spring house lagering...rims cleaning Hello all, I happen to have an old spring house foundation and a good year-round spring. Seems like this could be the ideal setup for lagering...or even perhaps for summer ale making. Just build a new spring house...and I will be in business. Anyone out there use a spring for keeping the fermenting wort cool? I have not measured the spring temperature...but in summer it is quite cold...about 55F or less? Rims question: I am probably (almost certainly, already have two kegs...) going to build a 3-tier system...but I wonder...how much hassle is a rims system with respect to cleaning/sanitizing? We hear much about the advantages of rims...in the _beer making_ process...but how about the disadvanteges of rims related to cleaning the system? Much different than a 3-tier system? I could afford to build a rims I think...but wonder if I would properly sanitize the system after building it. I can imagine what needs to be done with the 3-tier...is a rims sysem that much different, for cleaning? Been lurking for a year or so...don't think the spring question has come up in this time...if ever. I have tried to check the archives...but mostly find seasonal spring or mechanical spring... Bill Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 20:24:34 -0800 From: Jon McCoy <shooter at aa.net> Subject: Berliner Weisse questions I'm planning a Berliner-Weisse as my first all-grain, any advice from the gurus is welcomed. Guessed (5-gal) recipe so far is: 2.5# pale malt (2-row or 6-row?) (American or British?) 2.5# German wheat malt 0.5oz Hallertauer (probably Yakima Valley, USA type) - 60min 0.5oz Hallertauer - 10 min Leftover AmericanII Wyeast from last low-gravity batch Infusion mashing in 5-gal brewpot with homemade EZmasher, target 155F. 60 min full volume boil. Crash chill with immersion chiller to 70F. Rack off trub and debris, primary in plastic for ~three days. Split secondary, half over raspberry fruit, half plain. At racking to secondary, add unknown quantity (I've read 1tsp/5gal) of 88% food-grade lactic acid to taste. None of the books I've looked at (so far) have any info, besides style descriptions and mention of L. delbruckii inoculation at pitching. I don't really want to pitch bacteria this early in my experimentation, so I'm willing to just go for the 1-dimensional sourness of lactic acid. In all other ways, I want to keep it as simple as possible on brewday. Thanks for any help you can offer. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 22:25:31 -0600 From: "Raymond C. Steinhart" <rnr at popmail.mcs.net> Subject: Re:Thermostat Jon, The reason you are not supposed to cycle a freezer at higher temperatures is because at higher temperatures the compressor is running at higher internal pressures causing the compressor to work harder. If you set a thermostat up with a differential of about 3 degrees (F) you should not have a problem. I purchased a Ranco thermostat which has a LCD readout of actual temperature, diagnostics, a 1 to 33 degree F adjustable differential, a built in timer to prevent the compressor from turning back on after a power outage (this prevents compressor overload if you had a brief outage or brownout). Available at WW Grainger here in the states. Ranco number ETC-111000-000. It also has a flexible temperature probe that won't get damaged by laying it between the lid and the base of the freezer. I bought it for about $50.00, this is probably one of my better finds. Incidentally for all you gadgeteers, Ranco also makes a temperature controller (same style) with a 0-10V analog output. I suppose you could use this for heating as well because it is a heating/cooling thermostat and has a operating range of -30F to 220F Ray Steinhart Brewers of South Suburbia Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 22:44:26 -0600 From: "Raymond C. Steinhart" <rnr at popmail.mcs.net> Subject: Re: RIMS PUMPS I don't think a bronze body is going to hold up real well against the acidity of the wort. Ideally it would be made entirely out of Polyphenylene Sulfide (PPS- Ryton TM, Fortron TM). My pump is made out of Polysulphone which really is a bit overkill from a design standpoint for our application, but I couldn't get one out of PPS. Incidentally, I bought mine from Moving Brews. Don't have the address but they are on the Web. After purusing many catalogues and sources, I found them to have the greatest selection and best prices. Ray Steinhart Brewers of South Suburbia Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 21:12:33 -0800 From: John Bowerman <jbowerma at kfalls.net> Subject: mudbugs In HBD 2671 someone named MADwand wrote: > some yankee recently said he had crawfish at one time and didn't like > them because of the muddy taste ... I do believe that's damnyankee ... Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 1998 22:20:26 -0800 From: Jack Schmidling <arf at mc.net> Subject: MixMasher observations Alex Santic <alex at brainlink.com> "My initial batch used 9.5 lbs of grain and 3.5 gals water. This fills a 10 gal Polarware kettle considerably less than half full... I would think that changing nothing but the fan blade size (smaller) would equalize everything for a smaller batch size. Sounds like you are having fun but I feel it's only a matter of evolution that folks gravitate to 10 gallon batches sooner or later. js - -- Visit our WEB pages: Beer Stuff......... http://ays.net/jsp Astronomy....... http://user.mc.net/arf ASTROPHOTO OF THE WEEK..... New Every Monday Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 07:35:14 +0100 From: "Aikema, J.N. (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com> Subject: microscope Hello brewers, AJ writes in HBD 2664 about a microscope. I have bought a used one (in good condition) and I'm trying to use it for checking my brews. Enlargment possible 15 x 40 and even 15 x 100 with oil-immersionlens. But I'm not sure how to distinguish between small bacteria (coccus, sarcina) and trub. I can recognize for instance Lactobacteria (rods with approx. 1/2 length of the diameter of a yeastcel (not often Thank goodness!). Is there an (easy) way? Some staining method perhaps? Is there a good book which I should read? I don't have access to Internet (only E-mail). Greetings from Holland, Hans Aikema Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 02:37:03 -0500 From: ensmingr at npac.syr.edu Subject: baker's yeast Jeff Renner and HBDers, I was interested in Jeff Renner's recent HBD post (#2670-13) on baker's yeast. My understanding was that baker's yeast (e.g., Fleishman's) has an enormous supply of glycogen and that this must be depleted before the yeast uses an exogenous sugar. In fact, when I was a biology TA (at Univ. of Michigan, BTW), we used baker's yeast for student demonstrations/experiments which were based on very well known studies of yeast respiration from the 1960's (by Britton Chance et al. of the Johnson Institute, Univ. of Penn.). One basic experiment compared two batches of yeast: Batch #1 preparation: dissolve baker's yeast in buffer and "wash" them. Batch #2 preparation: dissolve baker's yeast in buffer and "wash" them, then "starve" them for 2-3 days by vigorously bubbling in air. We had students measure respiration of the two batches of yeast with an oxygen electrode. Batch #1 respired rapidly; however, respiration did not increase when glucose was added, presumably because the yeast had so much internal glycogen. Batch #2 respired slowly because it had little internal carbohydrate; however, adding glucose dramatically increased the respiration rate. I have difficulty reconciling these results with your post that baker's yeast use the carbohydrates present in flour. Could you please enlighten us? TIA, Peter A. Ensminger ensmingr at npac.syr.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 09:59:48 +0100 From: Lars Bjornstad <siv95043 at vm.bi.no> Subject: Element in boiler First of all, thanks to all who answered my question on "mash water calculations" a while back. I tried all the calculations/programs, but I still didn't get close to the amount I use. I haven't had time to perform any experiments, but next time I'll check the temp. of my "boiling" water. I suspect that might be the problem. To the point; we plan to upgrade our brewing system to 12-13 gal batches. We have a great SS vessel, and our intention was to use an electric water heater element in the boiler. Would a 4500 W (240 V) element be OK, or would it scorch the wort? Has anyone tried this? (we use 240 V here in Europe). I know low density elements are the ones to use, but on PlumbingSupply/warehouse/world.com (does anyone know this company??) I saw something called "Extra Low Density incoloy/wrinkle style" elements ($23). Is anyone familiar with this type of element, would it be better to use in a boiler? Advice apperciated TIA, Lars Bjornstad ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The Golden Droplet (brewing): http://www.ifi.uio.no/~ketilf/draapen.cgi Gartnerlosjen: http://www.uio.no/~ahaavard/lars/gartner.htm ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 12:53:43 -0000 From: Tony Barnsley <Tony.Barnsley at riva-group.com> Subject: Using a handpull beer engine to dispense from corn kegs Hi All, I am intending to add a corny keg setup to my bits and pieces to play with. I have found a homebrew dealer in the UK that sells everything I need (Kegs are expensive at 35 pounds each). One thing I noticed in the shop was a really nice handpull beer engine that I think will look great on the bar. How can I connect this up to a corny keg? According to the guy at the shop you can only pressurize the keg to 2-3 psi, before it overcomes the seals in the handpull and out flows your beer. I know about setting up a balanced dispense system by varying the length of the beer line, does this only affect the dynamic pressure drop whilst serving, or does it also decrease the static pressure while the tap is closed. I would really like to hit the keg pressure up to about 25 psi and then drop it down using 12 ft of 3/8" dispense line. If I can't do that then I intend to get a 3 or 4 tap Scottish style dispenser, which really looks the business. Wassail and TIA Tony ( Blackpool, Lancashire , UK ) Tony.Barnsley at riva-group.com personal replies welcome Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 08:09:02 -0500 From: taylorf at fcis.com (Forrest Taylor) Subject: Picnic Cooler I would love to have a double picnic cooler to serve my corney kegged beer in the summer. Unfortunately I could not afford it and the divorce my wife would serve me with if I purchased it. Does anyone have a parts list for a homemade picnic cooler? I was thinking about using copper coils and cobra head taps to save money. How do you clean it? Thanks, Forrest Taylor Woodbridge, Va. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 08:34:52 -0500 From: "Briden, Thomas" <TBRIDEN at erisco.com> Subject: B-Brite Info Needed Randy Shreve wrote: >B-brite has been my sanitizer of choice from the beginning and I am still >using it because....well....I've always used it! >Two points of confusion that I need to have clarified: >1. What is the recommended minimum contact time? >2. How long does the stuff maintain it's potency after it has been mixed? >(for that matter, how long does the average male HBD member maintain his >potency after being mixed with numerous homebrews??!??) B-Brite is NOT a sanitizer, it is a mighty effective cleaner, but has no or very little sanitizing capability. If you don't believe me, read the label and look for the word "sanitizer", you won't find it. The only batch of beer I ever infected was when I assumed, as do many folks, that B-Brite would sanitize my starter bottle. It did not, and I know this because the starter was used in a split batch and only the one half got infected (the other non-infected starter was boiled and cooled in a Pyrex flask). I still use B-Brite for most of my cleaning needs (it is the most effective remover of hop residue I've seen). I think a lot of folks get away with using B-Brite as a sanitizer simply because it CLEANS so well, but in my experience, it can't be counted on to really kill any bugs. (I hope this doesn't start a war, as this is my first post here). Tom Briden Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 08:47:19 -0500 From: Chas Peterson <chasp at digex.net> Subject: Dunkels HBDers - Matt writes in distress about the lack of Dunkle formulations around. Try and get a copy of an old BT (spring 95, i think); it had a very interesting article on this style. The upshot, as I recall, is that most German brewers go with a mash of almost 100% Munich malt and either double or triple decoct. I simply love this style -- and its brother, Schwartzbier, and was also disappointed that it did not make Ray's book (guess you gotta stop somewhere). Here are my suggestions: Use at least 50% Munich malt, with the balance lager (Klages is fine) and specialty malts I like to use a measured amount of special B and Biscuit I also use a small amount of chocolate malt (1/8# per 5 ga), even though the AHA Guidelines recommend against this Try a bunch of different Munich malts -- I used 3 kinds this year: Durst, Monravian, and DWC I wouldn't think of using anything but Wyeast Bavarian strain, preferably on its second pitch You've got the IBUs pegged right -- depends a lot on you water sulfate makeup -- but hop flavor is up to you. I personally don't like to have the hop flavor compete with the maltiness of the brew. A Schwartzbier, OTOH, is a bit heavier and has the malt backbone to stand up to some pretty hefty hop flavor additions. Happy Brewing, Chas Peterson Laytonsville, Md =========================================================== Chas Peterson chasp at digex.net Director - Product Development 301-847-4936 Custom Enterprise Networks Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 08:49:45 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: baker's yeast ensmingr at npac.syr.edu wrote: >My understanding was that baker's yeast (e.g., Fleishman's) has an >enormous supply of glycogen and that this must be depleted before the >yeast uses an exogenous sugar. <snip> > >I have difficulty reconciling these results with your post that baker's >yeast use the carbohydrates present in flour. Could you please >enlighten us? Well, I leave the detailed biochemistry to biochemists or microbiologists (although I do have an M.S. in biology myself). Baker's yeast may have lots of glycogen, but I suspect that they are reproducing, so that in itself would decrease the glycogen reserves per cell. Regardless, I suspect the glycogen reserves would be depleted pretty quickly. At any rate, bakers' yeast certainly consumes sugars and produces alcohol and CO2, just like brewer's yeast: >From _Ingredients for Bakers_, Samuel A. Matz, Pan-Tech International (McAllen, TX: 1987), p 51: "The sugars which are consumed in fermentation are usually the simplest sugars glucose or fructose which result from the action of enzymes on the larger molecules of sucrose, maltose, starch or similar relatively complex carbohydrates. ... starch and dextrins cannot be broken down by bakers' yeast. Enzymes present in flour, or diastaatic malt, are responsible for the production of sugars from the starches present in doughs." If it weren't for this phenomonen, dough would hardly rise at all. I certainly see evidence of this all the time, as I posted, in the slower browning of loaves of long fermented dough in the oven. A slice of my French bread (fermented >18 hours) takes a much higher toaster setting to color, than does commercial 3 hour bread. (As you probably know, there is a similar movement in the bread business to brewing for hand crafted, quality, traditional products- I have a "microbakery.") Jeff Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 08:58:08 EST From: Lcllamas <Lcllamas at aol.com> Subject: Yeast Washing I would be very happy to hear from those of you who re-pitch your yeast from batch to batch. How do you wash your yeast? I have read about washing the yeast before re-pitching but very little on the actual mechanics. I use a conical fermentor that works great for harvesting the yeast, but it is never the beautiful creamy white layer that is read about even after allowing it to set in the refrigerator and settle. I brew mainly light colored German style lagers but there is always a lot of gunk mixed in with the yeast coloring it as well as creating a very unpleasant look. I have tried adding water and decanting it off of the bottom numerous times and it gets better, but never as good as I would like. It works well when repitching with very little lag time, but I usually cringe when I pour it back into a new wort. I haven't been able to detect any detriment to the finished product however so maybe I am worry too much. I would appreciate any comments. Larry Crumrine Lcllamas at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 08:14:52 +0000 From: "Tony Quinn" <aquinn at postoffice.worldnet.att.net> Subject: Neo-prohibitionism (Good work George) Frank Conway" <fconway at wpg.sunquest.com> in a response to George De Piro wrote > Also, what is the real difference between your current .1 level and > .08? Not much, so why be concerned. George already answered this question and he's absolutely spot on. >> George De Piro wrote: >> If you ignore this now, you'll pay for it later. MADD and the >> other neo-prohibitionists won't stop at 0.08. Zero tolerance >> is their goal! >I could have gone on about how the people of the USA are paranoid >about government interference in their lives, but this is a brewing >forum, not a political one. So I won't. <sarcasm mode on> Yeah - Thanks for not going on about it! And please don't let the Queen know that the damn colonists are acting up again. After all, parliment's not interferring, it's just looking out for our welfare. We'll be happy to quarter soldiers in our homes. Pay taxes without representation? Sure. Submit to whimsical searches and siezures? Come on down. We promise to be good, just don't raise the taxes on beer and rum or you might really irritate someone. <sarcasm mode off> Justice (you know -- those guys with the funny white wigs) Louis D. Brandeis wrote: : "Experience should teach us to be most on our guard to protect liberty when the Government's purposes are beneficent. Men born to freedom are naturally alert to repel invasion of their liberty by evilminded rulers. The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in insidious encroachment by men of zeal, wellmeaning but without understanding. -- dissenting, Olmstead v. United States, 277 U.S. 479 (1928)" Tony (Where's my musket and powder horn? ) Quinn Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 06:52:36 -0800 From: Kyle Druey <druey at ibm.net> Subject: Talking Thermometer A month or so ago the HBD's own blind brewer was inquiring about a talking thermometer to assist him with his brews. I stumbled across what is called an alarm thermometer. It has an audible alarm that signals when the temp is out of your range. Here is the VWR catalog description: * Traceable * Reads in Fahrenheit and Celsius * Audible Alarm Signals Out of Range * Auto Alarm Reset Perfect for measuring temperatures in cuvets, gas systems, soil, water baths, incubators, foods, waste water, etc. Designed for years of reliable service even in severe lab or harsh plant environments. This VWRbrand Alarm Thermometer measures to 0.1deg. with accuracy of 1deg.. Readout and alarm ranges are -67.0 to 298.8deg.F and -55 to 148.8deg.C. When temperature rises above or falls below the programmable set point, an audible alarm signals. Alarm automatically resets when temperature returns "in range." Alarm mode may be switched off. Supplied with a fast response, universal 17.8 cm probe (liquids, semisolids and air/gas), with 3 ft. cable. Equipped with replaceable AAA battery. Supplied with a serial numbered certificate to indicate traceability to standards provided by the National Institute of Standards and Technology. Six year warranty. Description VWR Catalog # Price Alarm Thermometer 61161-274 42.75 You can find the VWR (telephone 1 800 932 5000) catalog at: http://www.vwrsp.com/catalog/catalog2.html I am not sure, but I am guessing that this thermometer has a memory so when you shut it off it will retain your range. This could be perfect for mashing, just set a high range of 151 F and a low range of 149 F, crank up the heat when the temp falls and the alarm sounds, then turn the heat off when it sounds again. Maybe you could get another one for the sparge water. Kyle Druey Bakersfield, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 10:31:14 -0500 From: cavac at stjohns.edu (Cava Christopher) Subject: Malto dextrin vs. lactose Do lactose and Malto Dextrin have the same effect and can they be used interchangeably? When would either be added. I am still using extract kits and am curious as to the effect either would have. We are about to start a porter (have not worked our way up to a stout yet) and thought this would be a good time to "experiment" with lactose. Is this a really bad idea? Can the Lactose/malto dextrin be added at bottling so I only run the risk of ruining half the batch? Is lactose mainly for stouts? If so does it's effects go beyond just "body" - i.e. is there an effect on color, head retention, reduction in bitterness (it is a sugar of sorts - yes?)? I know that some of these questions are old hat for most of you; so I appreciate the information. The list has been a major source of helpful hints and information. Christopher Cava Information Tech. St. John's University cavac at stjohns.edu Voice: 718-990-1367 Fax: 718-990-2002 8000 Utopia Parkway Jamaica, NY 11439 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 10:38:54 -0500 From: kathy <kbooth at scnc.waverly.k12.mi.us> Subject: Kolsch Kuestions; win a trip for two to Ireland My latest Kolsch had a pronounced corn smell. It tastes OK but the nose is different than I expected. I used the same malt and methodology for 3 separate recipes that day changing only the yeast (and amount of malt), and the Kolsch was the only one that is "corny". I primary fermented at 65F but my chest freezer went Kaput! and I was unable do the secondary at 40F with a restoration to 60F for a DMS consumption phase by the yeast. My questions are 1) does the Wyeast 2565 "Kolsch" yeast throw a corn/DMS twang? 2) Did the absence of the cold lagering and subsequent DMS consumption rest at 60F contribute to the corn smell? Does the DMS fit in the kolsch profile? Incidentally, Ray Danials in "Designing Great Beers" makes no mention of water softness for Kolsch, while the latest BT article on Kolsch emphasizes soft water is essential. The excellent BT issue came too late for me to use a blend of RO water as per my lagers. Killians (no connection yadda yadda but I do like their brown ale) has a "Trip to Ireland Sweepstakes" one can enter by internet at www.killians.com. I'm not a great fan of Miller Brewing but it would be great if some HBD'r got a trip around Ireland for two courtesy of Miller Brewing. Internet entries must be received by 12:01am April 3, 1998 An extended report on the experience would be expected from you winners. cheers, jim booth, lansing, mi Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 07:51:58 -0800 (PST) From: Domenick Venezia <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: hop tea haze Dan Morley reports that adding a hop tea at bottling time made his beer hazy. My guess is that the hop tea introduced tannins (polyphenols) to the beer and these reacted with the left over protein and created protein/polyphenol complexes that manifest as haze. Basically this is a chill haze that occurs at room temp. It will settle over time, perhaps over a long time. The good news is that it has no effect on flavor. Cheers! Domenick Venezia demonick at zgi.antispam.com (remove .antispam) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 12:13:23 -0500 From: "Capt. Marc Battreall" <batman at terranova.net> Subject: RE:Munich Dunkel In HDB2672 Matthew Arnold asks for help with a recipe for Munich Dunkel: Matthew, I too wanted to brew this fine style after a recent visit to Vail, Colorado and sampling (or more appropriately quaffing) it at a new brauhaus (sp) there. I searched all over for some recipes and didn't find much. I personally have never followed any recipes exactly, but more or less use them as guidelines. After reviewing Greg Noonan's book, New Brewing Lager Beer, I decided to use his recipe for Munich Dark as a guideline. I have long regarded him as the Lager Guru for sure! Anyway, I came up with this following recipe and brewed it about a week ago. I cannot attest to the outcome yet because it is still in the primary fermenter, but all signs indicate that it will come out fine. Here it is: Grand Slam Dunkel - 6 US Gallons Water - 9 gallons (6.3 pure, 2.7 tap) .25 tsp Citric acid for 5.8 pH Treatment - 1 tsp CaCO3, .5 tsp CaSO4, .25 tsp CaCl - (note: All salts added to the mash) 5# - Weyermann Pilsner Malt 5# - Weyermann Light Munich Malt 2# - Briess American 6 Row Malt 1# - CaraMunich Malt 8 oz - Crystal Malt (40L) 2 oz - Chocolate Malt 1 oz - Black Patent Malt 1 oz - Mt. Hood hop plugs (4.2% - boil 75 min) 1 oz - Liberty hop plus (3.3% - boil 45 min) 1 oz - German Mittelfruh (yes real ones!) whole hops (4.8% - boil 15 min 1 tsp Irish Moss Flakes (in boil 15 min) 1800 ml Wyeast #2206 Bavarian Lager I used a combination single decoction, step mash routine with the temp rests at 105/138/153F and did a 10 min. mashout at 167. Lautering and boiling and all the rest is pretty much the same as any lager brewing. The above recipes numbers are a touch high according to AHA style standards as far as IBU's are concerned, but that all depends on how you figure your hop efficiency. Additionally, I ended up with alot higher OG and extract efficiency than I had planned. I collected 6.25 gallons of 1.064 wort which according to my brewing software is about 91% EE. YMMV. It might have been due to the new MaltMill (tm) I used or the decoction. The jury is still out on that one! (See recent post in HBD). I am now fermenting it at 50F and plan on doing a 48F secondary and then lagering it for a month or so. I do six gallon batches so I can keg 5, and bottle the rest for friends, competitions, etc. Anyway, just thought you might like the recipe. Good Luck and Cheers! ====================================================================== Captain Marc Battreall Islamorada, Florida Future site of "The BackCountry Brewhouse" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 12:25:39 -0500 (EST) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Bakers yeast... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Most bread recipes I've made call for the addition of sugar. In that case, that's what the yeasties be eatin'. I wasn't aware that flour had any dastatic enzymes in it. Is the grain malted before milling? I don't think so, but one never knows if one never asks... See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at oeonline.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brewing Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 11:39:02 -0600 (CST) From: Samuel Mize <smize at prime.imagin.net> Subject: Proposed USA Federal 0.08 percent driving limit Greetings, I apologize for this use of bandwidth. I want to explain to our foreign readers why some of us oppose the proposed USA federal 0.08 percent blood-alcohol driving limit. I also want to get our USA readers to contact their congresspersons. I don't believe this proposal is about road safety. It's about building a national prohibitionist political power base. We don't want that. It's the kind of "salami" tactics that gave us prohibition before. (Get the salami one slice at a time.) Note, however, that many MADD people work with states, cities and communities for education, more road patrols, stricter and more even-handed sentencing. These don't build a prohibitionist power base, they just reduce accidents and deaths. I applaud these people. I hate drunk driving. A friend and mentor of mine, and his family, were killed by a drunk driver. Someone who drinks and drives home is a murder waiting to happen. But I oppose this particular federal boondoggle. FIRST, IT WILL ACCOMPLISH NOTHING. No horde of drivers is being stopped, released for a BAC of 0.08 to 0.10, and then wreaking havoc. As James Tomlinson said on alt.politics: 85 percent of ... crash injuries involve drivers with no blood alcohol at all. [Of the rest] 93 percent involve drivers with a BAC of 0.10 or higher. David Howse writes that Australia has had a uniform limit of 0.05 for years. The state of Victoria doubled random breath testing from 1994 to 1994. 20% fewer people died, and the number of drivers testing over the legal limit decreased 21.6%. He meant to support a 0.05 percent limit, yet his own data show that the difference was improving enforcement, NOT reducing the limit. People either drink and drive, or they don't. They don't monitor their blood alcohol to within 0.02 percent. This mandate will make no real change. SECOND, IT WILL DIVERT ENFORCEMENT FUNDS. Changing a law costs a lot: reprinting documents, retraining officers, publicizing the change, processing borderline cases. That money comes from the same bucket as enforcement money. James Tomlinson noted: this proposed federal bludgeoning will divert limited police, prosecutorial, and judicial resources away from drinker-drivers that account for 93 percent of the problem and toward a low-risk group that accounts for only 2.6 percent of the problem -- which is exactly why the founder of MADD, whose daughter was killed by a repeat offender with a BAC over 0.20, is publicly opposed to lowering the permissible BAC. THIRD, MATTERS LIKE DRUNK DRIVING POLICY ARE STATE ISSUES. In the USA, power is balanced between the states and the federal government. The states would be blackmailed: enact Federal policy, or they'll tax you anyway and return nothing. Yes, this has been done before. It was wrong then, it's wrong now. Yours for responsible and safe brewing, consumption and government, Samuel Mize Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 12:26:28 -0600 (CST) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: Change of heart? Lewis writes: >I have a culture from rogue shakesphere stout what is it? and more >important where is it from? is this the pack man yeast? I will be using it >soon! and will see if it compares to any other yeast in my collection. > > >- --------------------------------------------- >Lewis Good >Wine & brew By you INC. >Serving South Florida Since 1969 <snip> Seems as though the people at Wine & brew By you INC. have had a change of heart. About 8 years ago, I placed an order with them and received nine-month-old Wyeast. When I called and complained that the package said that it should be used within 4 months, I was told by a very angry man to send back the yeast and that he would refund my money. I told him that I did not contest the fact that the yeast could still be used to make fine beer but rather that I did not want to pay full price for outdated yeast. He then said, "I know who you are... you're one of those guys from the brew network!" He refered to us as "a strange group of weirdos" and "cheapskate weirdos." He said that he has been brewing for 30 years, and knew more about brewing than anybody on the network. Strangely enough, he *asked* me to tell you to not order anything from him. He repeatedly stressed that his was "a legitimate business" not "some guy working out of his bedroom." I would like to point out that I never said anything to incite this kind of reaction, was very polite as I asked for reimbursement, and even gave him several chances to apologize. He continued to flame about us digest members. He said that he will make a batch of beer with the yeast I return to him, he will use $50 (!) worth of malt, he will have Mr. Mossberg review the beer and post the review to the digest. I sent back the yeast AND the devices for modifying a keg to draw beer from the top in stead of the bottom. Alas, eight years later and I still have not gotten a credit for the $23.70 desipite several phone calls. Now, it seems that Wine & brew By you INC. feels that we in the HBD may know something about brewing. Well, I do happen to know what yeast you have there and I'll tell you if you send me a check for $23.70. Al. A dissatisfied W&BBY Inc. customer since 1990. P.S. I still haven't seen a review of the beer by Mr. Mossberg, incidentally. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 13:27:39 -0500 From: Nathan_L_Kanous_Ii/FSU at ferris.edu Subject: Acid Malt Greetings! I just stopped by the old homebrew store, only to find that they now carry "acid malt". The maltster was Weiss...something. I'm kind of intrigued by this malt. I think a touch of sourness would add some complexity to many beers. Has anybody any useful information on the use of this malt? Any recipes that require its use? TIA Nathan in Frankenmuth, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 12:48:40 -0600 (CST) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: hop tea haze Dan writes: >arrggg....I put a haze in my beer!!! > >I just recently bottled an APA and I wanted to add some more hop aroma. I >made up my usual water & corn sugar solution for priming and I boiled this >for 15 minutes. I then let this cool to about 160 deg. and added 1/2 ounce >of fresh cascade leaf hops. I let this steep for 20 minutes, strained it >through a sanitized strainer into my bottle bucket and bottled as usual. Hops have a lot of polyphenols. Despite the small amount used (relative to the weight of the malt), hops contribute about 1/3 of the polyphenols (tannins) in the beer. When you boil hops in wort, you are boiling them in a liquid that's 5.5 pH or less. When you boil or steep them in plain water, you could have a pH of 7.0 or higher! My water is around 8.5 out of the faucet. I suspect that you added a lot of polyphenols with the hop tea and these complexed with proteins to give you chill haze. You can remove some of this haze with Polyclar (PVPP), but be warned that this will reduce the bitterness a little (5 or 10%). You also probably added some oxygen via the straining which is part of the polyphenol-protein chillhase problem... I've read where only oxidized polyphenols will contribute to haze. Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com My new website (still under construction, but up-and-running): http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 10:56:51 -0800 From: Scott Murman <smurman at best.com> Subject: Re: distilled water yeats storage David Hill asked: > What are the advantages of yeast storage under distilled water > compared with just holding a bottle of beer in the fridge? First, it isn't distilled water storage, it's *sterile* water storage. Big difference. The water (and test tubes, petri dishes, whatever) is usually sterilized by holding it at 240F for 15 minutes in a pressure cooker or some other autoclave-type device. I'm not sure whether you mean storing a large volume of harvested yeast from a primary under water, or you're talking about storing small numbers of cells for long-term storage. I'll assume the latter. I've been using this method for a couple of years, and I maintain over a dozen different strains (and growing). I've had no problems re-culturing after over a year of storage. The idea with sterile water storage is to get the yeast to go dormant by removing all sources of food for them. What dormant actually means to a yeast cell I don't know, but I assume their reproductive/survival mechanism basically slows down to a crawl. If yeast are left under beer, then they will not go dormant since there will still be nutrients around that they can process, including other yeast cells that have bit the dust. I've never used the method myself, but others here and in books (sic) have mentioned being able to store yeast under beer on the order of a few weeks without problems. I've stored large volumes of yeast harvested from a primary under water for a few weeks, but longer than that and all I have is a jar of (effectively) dead yeast. SM Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 14:41:43 -0000 From: "Jim & Shelly Wagner" <wagner at toad.net> Subject: Re: offensive behavior I just finished reading Ken Jucks appology re: the 1998 BHC.........I won a 1ST in the Spice/Herb/Vegetable catagory, was posted as "Jim Wagner and another Wagner", yet I was the only brewer. MY GOD!!! I'M OFFENDED!!! I'M THE GREATEST BREWER ON THE FACE OF THE EARTH...HOW DARE YOU......give me a break, when I saw that "satan" was the cobrewer, I could not stop laughing( for those who do not know, references to the devil are often a trademark of high gravity Belgian-styled beers) Don't get me wrong, I take my brewing VERY seriously, but to take offense to something like that is beyond me...it has nothing to do with religion, so don't even go there...sexual harassment?...nah...racists?..I don't think so...like Tom Ayres said...LIGHTEN UP!!! I consider us all friends here...let's keep it that way. Oh...by the way...Ken, I feel you would be doing your club and yourself a disservice by removing yourself from "the scene". I enter a LOT of competitions and feel you did an excellent job as the organizer...I know it's a hell(sorry, didn't mean to offend anyone) of a lot of work that goes on behind the scenes...again, good job! Jim Wagner(and NOT another Wagner) Chesapeake Real Ale Brewers Society(CRABS) Pasadena, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 98 14:17:44 -0600 From: Heflin <bodie at shreve.net> Subject: Garbage bag fermenting and mudbugs Hi all, I have several 15 gallon plastic barrels that I got from St. Pats that were used for shipping extract. They make good primary fermenters but are a real pain in the butt to clean. Even if you think they're clean you really can't see into them good enough to be sure. I heard somewhere that you can use a big plastic garbage bag to line the fermenter. Is this true? It would make life much easier to sanitize a bag and insert it through the bung hole, rack into it, and hold it all in place with the airlock. Any specific type of bag needed or will it produce off flavors. To Kathy coming down I-65, I'm sure by the time you hit southern Alabama you'll be able to find some Mudbugs. They're in prime season right now. they will be around most of the summer but tend to be much bigger in the spring. Get em spicy hot and find someone serving crawfish ettouffe (sp.) Yum, yum! Bodie Return to table of contents
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