HOMEBREW Digest #2842 Tue 06 October 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Re: Lead ("Timothy Green")
  Re: Is my beer going to kill me? (Steve)
  Adding new must to mead question (MSchilz)
  Re: Malt analysis and cloudy beer from munich malt/Kunze Komments ("Steve Alexander")
  Dry Yeast (Danny Breidenbach)
  Fermentap Contraption and Kegging/Bottling (CHUCK MORFORD)
  siphoning the sparge (Andrew Stavrolakis)
  Great American Brew Festival (Brandon Brown)
  Subject: Burners (Brandon Brown)
  RE: home brewery design (Brandon Brown)
  3rd Annual Music City Brew-Off (Stephen Johnson)
  No Carbonation ("NFGS")
  Inconsistent Carbonation, ("David R. Burley")
  Re: Collar design for an upright freezer ("McConnell, Guy")
  Reverse HERMS ("Houseman, David L")
  High molecular weight proteins, 2-cents ("Rich, Charles")
  Infected Beer! How do I save some of it? (Kenneth Sullivan)
  Copper in my keg? ("Jim McZLusky")
  Virtual homebrew clubs? (Gail Elber)
  18th-century brewing text on line (Gail Elber)
  Filter device (Ralph Link)
  Re gabf (JPullum127)
  now THATS protein! (Dave Sapsis)
  Re:Adaptation (or not) of cooler mash tun ("Michael Maag")
  Virtual Home Brew Clubs (pbabcock)
  3 tier brew tree ("Tom & Dee McConnell")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 00:35:28 -0400 From: "Timothy Green" <TimGreen at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Re: Lead Here's my $0.02 on the lead comments. Lead is a toxic chemical to the extreame. Damage can be caused in amounts of 0.1 mg or less. The most obvious damage is the loss of IQ. At higher levels of lead poisoning, the damage can cause ADD and ADHD conditions. Massive seazures are also not unknown. Just because lead shot has been used for hunting for many years, as one person has pointed out, does NOT make it safe. Tim Green Mead is great... Beer is good... (But beer is much faster) Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 4 Oct 1998 23:25:16 -0500 From: Steve <steves at ro.com> Subject: Re: Is my beer going to kill me? Nathan Kanous reported: >In toxicology class, we discussed lead poisoning (imagine that). After >discussing the manifestations of lead poisoning, the instructor read us a >case report from the literature. I'm going to guess it was mid '50's but >that's not what's relevant. The case involved a publican (pub owner in UK) >that suffered from lead poisoning. He had classic symptoms of lead >poisoning (don't remember them all, but I know where to look it up). The >question was...how did he get lead poisoning? > >Well, as fate would have it, this publican felt it was good business to >have a pint of ale with his first patron every day. In fact, he would draw >his own pint first, and serve the second to the patron. His pub was >outfitted with lead pipes running from the casks to the tap. It was >thought by the toxicologists called in that the ale that sat in the pipes >overnight, absorbed more lead from the pipes than at any other time >throughout the day...and the publican drank the first pint EVERY DAY! What >a fate. Is your beer going to kill you? Don't know...it's your choice. >If you leave the lead in there long enough, it'll probably hurt. > This story is at least twenty-five years old, but I got it from a metallurgist buddy of mine who told it as the truth. Seems that a professional aquaintance of his had gotten a big honkin' dose of lead through inhalation. (This interested me a bunch, because when I was a young and dumb teenager, I would scavenge the lead from dead car batteries and melt it down to pour into molds to make candlesticks and the like.) Anyway, the victim treated himself to his own form of chelation therapy by self prescribing a six-pack of beer a night for a month (if I remember the story correctly). And lo and behold, the lead present in his bloodstream dropped out. Can anyone here refute or confirm the possibility of such a therapy working? Steve Stripling Huntsville, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 01:40:26 EDT From: MSchilz at aol.com Subject: Adding new must to mead question I have some meads that I wanted to add fresh must to (I'm making a hi-grav mead), but when I remembered they had already cleared! Can I still add the fresh must, or do I need to rack the mead off the lees first? Feel free to reply by private email. TIA, Michelle Schilz schilzm at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 05:54:27 -0400 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Malt analysis and cloudy beer from munich malt/Kunze Komments Steve Jackson writes that ... >"Silent Bob" wrote: >>[...] A protien rest is advised because specialty >>malts are often made from lower quality barley. ><snip> ><<<< >Be careful with making such blanket statements. American specialty >malts may be made from lower-quality barley, but European malts >generally are not. In fact, Steve - be careful when pulling the blankets off such blanket statements. Kunze 2.9.1 states "Dark Malt(Munich type) - To produce dark malt all the conditions which lead to the formation of aroma-producing Maillard products (melanoidins) are favoured. These include at processing barley with a higher protein content, [...]". Although having a high protein content isn't equatable to low quality, it does speak to Silent Bob's point. ==== Wolfgang Kunze's book, 'Technology of Brewing and Malting', VLB Pub.,Berlin 1996, $189US. I've had this book for a couple weeks now and would like to make some comments on it. It's an English translation of a German brewing textbook which (in German) is now in it's 7th edition. I suspect that this is a primary textbook for a semester or two of practical brewing coursework. The keyword here is "practical". This is very much an 'engineering' book. It answers the 'how-to' questions beautifully, but it doesn't attempt to answer the 'why' questions at all. For this reason it is not a candidate for my "ideal brewing science" book - tho' it is a very useful book. It's about 720 pages, which are for the most part beautifully typeset with only a few minor kinks (like some unfortunate linewraps). The Graphics and diagrams that contain text labels have those labels in German, however each such diagram has a German=English translation guide. Measures appear to all be given both in metric and US English quantities. The book is organized into 11 chapters plus an introductory historical chapter '0'. The chapters are raw materials, malt production, wort production, beer production, beer container filling, cleaning and disinfection, finished beer, small scale brewing, waste disposal and the environment, energy management in the brewery and maltings, and finally 'from process automation to process integration of the brewery'. The material in each chapter is extremely well organized into subsections. The overall organization appears faultless. Some aspects which are less than faultless are the translation, the literature references and the subject index. The translation stylistically seems to wobble between a 'throw papa down the stairs his hat' literal translation and a more direct, functional and fluent style. The translator, Dr. Trevor Wainwright, appears from credits to by British, however the text never approaches the beautiful and precise use of the language (some would say stilted) seen in 'Malting and Brewing Science'. I suspect the style of the original German text was less academic and more personal and direct than 'M&BS", as evidenced by the discussion of dextrins as the source of enlargement of the front region (beer belly) and the admonition that good brewers are known by the quality of the beer they brew, not by the quantity they drink. The translation of the text, aside from one instance where a German term is left untranslated, is fully functional. To be fair the textbook format with prodigious in-line 'bullet' lists of important ideas and boxed text of important concepts isn't intended to scan like Shakespeare's sonnets. The selection of material for the bullets and boxes is appropriate, but it sometimes seems that a third of the chapter is presented in these offsets. Don't German students own highlighter pens ? The reference list for this large volume contains only 150 citations and the majority of those are in German language only journals. The explicit notation in the text to references are few, so when an odd sounding assertion is made in the text it will be damned difficult to track down any reference. The Subject index has two faults. The translation is subpar; words like 'alkohol' and 'glukan' appear and the index does not refer to all pages where the term appears. 'Munich malt' refers to the page where the malt is originally described but it does not help you access the several pages where the terms Munich and/or Dark malt are using in describing malt bills for various styles. Generally a subject index line contains only a single page number referral. This makes it more difficult to use the book as a reference volume. Material covered includes a great amount of information for large commercial operations. This is of course appropriate for a technical school textbook used to train assistant brewers. As a HBer with curiosity about but no serious aspirations for commercial brewing, the in-depth material covering process control, sanitary pipe networks and calculation of power requirements and especially the 90 pages devoted almost entirely to bottle and can filling were well beyond my current level of interest. I do appreciate that these are present though. The chapter on small scale brewing (10 pages) contains about 3 pages on homebrewing and they give a very interesting viewpoint on how difficult homebrewing must be in some places. Generally the microbrewery and brewpub descriptions are given short shrift IMO. This book does discuss non-Reinheitsgebot and non-German brewing practices and beer styles, but it must be considered a more parochial German book than 'M&BS' is a British book. One other manifestation of the locality of the source material are the many references to IEC codes and safety laws and to laws of operation of breweries. I wish the author had included at least a synopsis of the IEC codes under discussion. Is it worth $200+US (incl shipping) ? If you are seriously considering going commercial, or getting involved in brewery design or just have a great interest in these large commercial methods and equipment - then yes - it's a wonderful book. If you're a homebrewer looking for authoritative detail on commercial process including calculation of various factors and descriptions of how things work - this is again a great choice. It is not a brewing science reference work. It contains much of the information you'd expect to find in a general brewing handbook but this is not really the focus of the text either. Steve Alexander Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 08:06:01 -0400 From: Danny Breidenbach <DBreidenbach at nctm.org> Subject: Dry Yeast Howdy gang, I got crazy and bought two packs of Whitbread dry ale yeast for my next brew. What are some advantages and disadvantages to pitching two packs (14 g each, I think) into five gallons of a middle-of-the-road type brown ale? I'm more concerned with strong ferment and lack of nasty flavors than I am with a microbiological explanation of the yeasties' life-cycle. Also --- just follow the directions on the back of the sachet? Or are there other things (such as incantations, growing it into a starter, dancing naked in my backyard to the light of the harvest moon) that help with a strong ferment and lack of nasty flavors. It's been a long time since I messed with dry yeasts. Thanks, - --Danny Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 09:08:23 -0400 From: CHUCK MORFORD <MORFORD.CHUCK at epamail.epa.gov> Subject: Fermentap Contraption and Kegging/Bottling I was wondering if any of you are using the "Fermentap" valve and stand, and what are your general opinions? Also, I'm thinking of moving to the 5L "Party Kegs" from bottles...I've kegged in Cornelius kegs, and bottled in regular swing-top, plastic soda and champagne bottles. I guess I'm still looking for "Packaging Utopia".... Anyone got any thoughts on this? Chuck Morford Mad Scientist Creator of "Dr. FrankenMorf's Oktoberfest Monsterbrew" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 09:29:00 -0400 From: Andrew Stavrolakis <andrew_stavrolakis at harvard.edu> Subject: siphoning the sparge Mark Terry asks whether it's possible to avoid drilling the side of a mash tun by conducting the sparge via a siphon from the manifold. This is the set up I use, and it works very well. I just attach a vinyl tube to the copper verticle T, though, it withstands mash temp just fine. One thing to note, the siphon tube must be a very narrow diameter, or it won't function properly. I use 1/4" od tubing, stepped down with a screw on nipple from the 1/2" manifold. I had to experiment with a few before I found the right diameter. Trying to just limit the flow on wider tubing with a valve didn't work. You can adjust the rate of your sparge by raising or lowering the mash tun relative to the brewpot. Good Luck, Andrew. andrew_stavrolakis at harvard.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 06:39:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Brandon Brown <brandonbrown at yahoo.com> Subject: Great American Brew Festival Greetings listers-- My wife and I just became home brewers with some instruction from a Siebel institute grad here in Chicago. We've kinda gone way overboard on our equipment and our brewing for the first week we had the equipment; i.e. 4 different beers, acquiring a third refridgerator for fermentation, etc. We decided it would be great fun to go to the Great American Brew Festival in Denver to take a look at the great beers from around the country. After seeing the festival, we learned that the majority of the people serving the beers are volunteers from the Denver area and few of the brewers were there representing their own products. Our note was it would have been alot of fun to talk to the brewmeisters about special techniques, how they came up with the beers, or hell, even the characteristics they were trying to come up with for the specific beer. It seemed like the crowd was very young and pretty hammered. I'm not sure if we'll go again, but I was wondering if anyone has been to a homebrew festival, what is the atmosphere like, etc? Any comments would be greatly appreciated. If you think I'm crazy, send me a direct email instead of junking up the list serve...... brandonbrown at yahoo.com Thanks again, Brandon == Brandon Brown (773)251-5353 Director of Development Fax:(773)442-0131 Protech Solutions Inc. bbrown at protechinc.net _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 07:06:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Brandon Brown <brandonbrown at yahoo.com> Subject: Subject: Burners I purchased my burners from Cabella's for $99. Its a King Kooker with two propane burners each rated at 175,000 BTUs. They're great! == Brandon Brown (773)251-5353 Director of Development Fax:(773)442-0131 Protech Solutions Inc. bbrown at protechinc.net _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 07:20:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Brandon Brown <brandonbrown at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: home brewery design I stated earlier on the list that I use the King Kooker dual propane burners with great results. We brew in our basement and I put a fan in the window and bought a digital CO (Carbon Monoxide) monitor to make sure I wasn't going to kill us! After testing with both burners running I found: Without the fan running and both burners on high, the highest level I was able to obtain with just the windows open was 25. With one fan running on exhaust, the highest was an 8. Generally I'm only using one burner at a time, and during the wort boil, there is no CO registering on my meter. Most of the time even when I do have levels without the fan running, the peak occurs right at the beginning and drops as the burners run. == Brandon Brown (773)251-5353 Director of Development Fax:(773)442-0131 Protech Solutions Inc. bbrown at protechinc.net _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 11:01:37 -0500 From: Stephen Johnson <Stephen.Johnson at vanderbilt.edu> Subject: 3rd Annual Music City Brew-Off Just a reminder that entries are now being accepted for the 3rd Annual Music City Brew-Off on October 24th at Boscos Nashville Brewing Company. If you need an entry packet, please e-mail competition coordinator Steve Johnson at Stephen.Johnson at vanderbilt.edu or Chuck Bernard at Bernardch at mindspring.com Include your snail mail address and we'll get something to you ASAP. Entries are $5 and should be sent to: Boscos Nashville Brewery c/o Music City Brewers 1805 21st Ave. S. Nashville, TN 37212 We will be accepting entries at Boscos Nashville Brewery in all of the 1998 AHA style categories and subcategories beginning September 28th. Entry deadline is October 19th. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 12:03:53 -0700 From: "NFGS" <fjrusso at coastalnet.com> Subject: No Carbonation My beer brewing has been limited to using extracts. I have only been doing this for 4 months. Up until the present I had no problems. I made an oatmeal stout. Using malt extract and Quaker quick oats. My O.G. was at 1.058, moved to the secondary after 5 days and after 1 week went to bottling. MY F.G. was 1.018. I bottled using corn sugar at standard conc. After 3 weeks I opened a bottle and there was NO carbonation. What has happened? Can I save this? If I add a small quantity of a dry yeast to each bottle can I initiate the carbonation? Frank fjrusso at coastalnet.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 12:22:39 -0400 From: "David R. Burley" <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Inconsistent Carbonation, Brewsters: FL Johnson bemoans the fact that even with careful weighing of sugar, he gets woefuly inconsistent carbonation. He suggests that this may be due to differences in dissolved CO2. It also may be due to incompete conversion of the dextrose priming sugar. Check the glucose sugar content before bottling and after priming and bottle fermentation. Chances are you will find that not all the priming sugar has disappeared. If so, try using an active yeast starter ( see my previous comments in the archives on a kraeusening starter). Often, especially with flocculent ale yeast that has been allowed to rest in the secondary for a long time, the yeast will not complete (or even start) the in-bottle fermentation and lead to inconsistent carbonation on a batch-wise basis. - ------------------------------------- Lead does get into the water from the pipes. Once in India on vacation, I took along a water purification kit based on iodine and when I used it on the hotel (oldest and most expensive one in Calcutta) water ( provided to us as "safe" water in a metal jug) I got this lovely, voluminous, heavy yellow precipitate which looked like lead iodide from the undoubtedly lead pipes installed when India was part of the British commonwealth. I decanted it and we drank it! - ------------------------------------ Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Kinnelon, NJ 07405 Dave_Burley at Compuserve.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 11:32:27 -0600 From: "McConnell, Guy" <GuyM at Exabyte.COM> Subject: Re: Collar design for an upright freezer Mike Logan writes: > I have recently had the good fortune to acquire a mid-sized upright freezer > for free. > It has the coils fixed to the shelves, making the shelves fixed. Since I need > a place where I can ferment my 5 gal carboys I am looking into expanding the > cooled space.. > Here is what I am thinking.. > I want to remove the door, build a collar out several feet, and re-attach the > door to the collar. I haven't settled on the exact dimensions but I want room > for at least 2 carboys. Mike, I did this with an upright and based my design on the one from Fred Eckardt (I believe) in an old issue of Zymurgy (sorry, don't have the reference in front of me) in an article called "Stalking the Wild Coldbox" if memory serves. I essentially built a plywood box the same approximate size as the upright freezer, insulated it with Celotex (foil on both sides), removed the door and attached to the front of the freezer. One design change that I made was suggested by the article. I turned the freezer sideways and attached the box with the door on the box's "side" to make access to the shelves easier. When facing it, the freezer is on the left, with its opening facing to your right (into the plywood box). When you open the door, the freezer's shelves are on your left. I made one removable shelf in the box section. I can ferment 10 gallon batches easily in there and have room for 18 or so kegs in the cold box area with lots of room on the freezer's shelves for bottles. I used 2x4's for the frame and 3/4" plywood for the box. It is attached to the freezer with long sheetmetal screws and any cracks siliconed to prevent cold air leaking out. It as sturdy enough to be moved from North Carolina to Colorado by the movers without coming apart! > Also, I will be hooking up a temperature controller, any recommended models > here? I use the Johnson Controls one and it works flawlessly. Good luck, Guy McConnell /// Loveland, Colorado /// guym at exabyte.com "And the beer I had for breakfast wasn't bad, so I had one for dessert..." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 13:36:45 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Reverse HERMS This weekend I did a little, informal experiment to see if this idea would work. I created a psuedo "mash" of 5 gallons in a Gott cooler at 140oF. This was simply water as I didn't want to waste grain for an experiment. In this I put my old immersion chiller which is about 20feet of 3/8OD copper tubing. I heated my HLT to boiling and turned off the heat. With a simple adapter I was able to use my RIMS pump and tubing to circulate the hot water through the copper coil to heat the "mash." By stirring constantly (would have to build a motorized stirrer to make this less labor intensive), I was able to achieve 4oF/min temp rise for the "mash." This is considerably better than I can do with my RIMS (only 120V available). So without additional equipment, I believe I have the ability to do a step mash in my Gott by means other than decoctions or adding boiling water. A 10 gallon, no-sparge batch with mash out should now be possible. I know that this experiment is by no means scientific but it at least convinces me that this is possible albeit with many details to work out. This essentially is a very rudimentary form of Reverse HERMS that Dave Ludwig put together, called Soft Heat Mash System, and shows on his web site, http://www.us.hsanet.net/user/dludwig/index.html. For anyone with a pump and an immersion chiller they can make a hot water heat exchanger using the same copper coil. Now I want to try a similar approach by using an old pressure cooker as a steam generator to underlet with steam; again a stirrer (manual or otherwise) will be necessary. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 10:41:21 -0700 From: "Rich, Charles" <CRich at filenet.com> Subject: High molecular weight proteins, 2-cents In HBD #2840, George De Piro wrote: "Wolfgang Kunze writes that too much protein degradation will actually cause more haze potential in the final beer. This is because it is the high-molecular weight protein degradation products that are the most potent haze causing proteins. You therefore don't want to degrade the largest proteins too much. Some HBDers disagree with Kunze about this last bit, but he has a better resume than any of us. Seek out more info if you wish to refute him; I'm just repeating what he has written!" Here's a datapoint from a recent brew gone bad, that I think supports Kunze. My Polder digital Thermometer/Timer's probe went t*ts-up during the brew and read 13F below actual. I determined this after about 80 minutes at 138F; I'd intended 151F but wasn't getting evidence of sugar conversion, no rainbows on the bubbles, no transparency etc. That beer, a CAP, had nil hot break (and consequently showed astringency), had little or negligible cold break, and was tenaciously very hazy. Polyclar helped pull some of haze and astringency, but it was still unshowable IMO. The long rest at 138F is just at the end of the temperature range where proteolytic enzymes would be expected to degrade high molecular weight proteins. Funny enough, the beer has a lot of body but a poor foam stand. Cheers, Charles Rich Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 13:04:07 -0600 (MDT) From: Kenneth Sullivan <Kenneth.Sullivan at Central.Sun.COM> Subject: Infected Beer! How do I save some of it? I'm still trying to adjust to to my new brewing area and coordinate my brewing techniques and procedures. Right now I need about 6 hands to do it. I brewed St. Pats brown ale extract kit and made the mistake of trying to add some water to the secondary. THe water must have sucked some nasties in with it and now I have about 3 colonies of 'mold' growing on the surface :-( Does anybody out know if I can siphon out from underneath the surface and salvage a large portion of the beer? Should I assume that the infection is throughout the beer and must be tossed? The beer had fermented out when I added the water, now the colonies are really funky looking and gaining mass, but just on the surface. The large colony is about the size of a dime. I added water to a different batch and it's just happy, no infection. kjsulli at central.sun.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 15:33:41 -0700 From: "Jim McZLusky" <crash at pgh.net> Subject: Copper in my keg? I am currently modifying a 1/2 barrel into a brewing vessel and everything I've seen calls for stainless steel tubing and fittings and ball valve to be used as a drain...why not copper? I will be using the keg to boil and then hookup to a counterflow chiller. Please tell me I can use copper! Thanks in advance, Jim Franz Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 12:24:58 -0700 From: Gail Elber <gail at brewtech.com> Subject: Virtual homebrew clubs? Does anyone know of any virtual homebrew clubs -- i.e., existing only on-line? I know about the Virtual Village Homebrewing Society on CompuServe, which holds AHA-sanctioned competitions. Any others? Gail Elber, Associate Editor BrewingTechniques P.O. Box 3222 Eugene, OR 97403 Tel. 541/687-2993 Fax 541/687-8534 http://brewingtechniques.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 12:43:01 -0700 From: Gail Elber <gail at brewtech.com> Subject: 18th-century brewing text on line A scan of The London Country Brewer, 2nd edition, published in 1736, is newly available at http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/london/. Gail Elber, Associate Editor BrewingTechniques P.O. Box 3222 Eugene, OR 97403 Tel. 541/687-2993 Fax 541/687-8534 http://brewingtechniques.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Oct 1998 16:06:20 -0500 From: Ralph Link <rlink at escape.ca> Subject: Filter device I was recently given a stainless steel filter gizmo. I believe that it was part of the lint trap in a gas clothes dryer. I has a relatively fine mesh to it, the problem as I see it is the two openings a large one on one end and a smaller one on the opposite end. The small opening fits nicely on the bottom of a keg, and I propose to cover the larger end with a piece of SS and fit a pipe through it as a collection point. I have taken a couple of pictures of it and should anyone in the collective like to offer an opinion on what I have or my plans I would be happy to forward the pictures as an attachment via e-mail. Thanks in advance. "Warm beer and bread They say it will raise the dead" Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 17:20:36 EDT From: JPullum127 at aol.com Subject: Re gabf just got back from denver and had a real good time.. falling rocks had a superb belgian dubbel on tap also the sierra nevada celebration was wonderfull. my favorite beer from the festival was "collaborator milk stout" from a homebrew club(the oregon brew crew). if anyone on hbd knows any of the brewcrew please!!!! get a recipe from them and post it. since its not a commercial brewery i figured they might share. wonderfull stuff. enjoyed meeting with everyone, sorry mark t. i'd tried to catch you at the aha booth, but you allways seemed to be out tasting! the mission has been assigned this post will not self-destruct in 30 seconds Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 14:39:10 -0700 From: Dave Sapsis <DAVE_SAPSIS at fire.ca.gov> Subject: now THATS protein! George dP writes: "There are plenty of amino acids for the Maillard reactons in a barley with 11% total nitrogen". That indeed would be true. Its even true when it is 11% *protein*. To find the N content when protein is given, devide by 6.25. In fact, listed protein is usually estimated based on a digestion of N by multiplying by said factor. Having not been satisfied with correcting another HBD luminary privately (Renner using an out-of-date taxonomic distinction), I get to correct George, who most of you know, makes very few errors and is a bastion of solid information. Peace, - --dave, sacramento "This wall is not real. How can it be real? Its only made of concrete and barbed wire" -Lucinda David Sapsis Fire and Fuels Specialist CDF Fire and Resource Assessment Program 916.227.1338 dave_sapsis at fire.ca.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 17:40:53 -0400 From: "Michael Maag" <maagm at rica.net> Subject: Re:Adaptation (or not) of cooler mash tun Mark asked: I'm in the process of building a mash tun from a Picnic Cooler, but I was thinking that I could avoid drilling it to install a ball valve. Would anuyone like to comment on the likely performance of this idea: Construct standard copper manifold, but 'tee' off vertically, bend through 180 degrees over side of tun. I would construct the pipe so that it would be possible to place lid on mash tun during mash. This would obviously be removed during sparge. Are there any good reasons why this would not work? Mark, it works just fine. I have a stainless 10 gal brewkettle that I use as a lauter tun. I could not bring myself to cut a hole in a $180 stockpot, so I made a circular (octagonal) manifold from copper pipe. After the mash I add about two gallons of hot water to thin the mash, then shove the manifold to the bottom of the kettle with a spoon and the upright pipe. I start a siphon and drain the wort into a bucket. I recirculate untill it clears. You need a good clamp to shut off the flow close to the end of the hose where it is draining into the bucket (Iuse a "c" clamp). Pour the wort back into the lauter tun and open the clamp, the siphon continues. Cheers, Mike 8*) (In the middle of the Shenandoah Valley) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 1998 17:34:18 -0400 (EDT) From: pbabcock <pbabcock at mail.oeonline.com> Subject: Virtual Home Brew Clubs Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Aside from the rather global virtual club known as the HBD, and CompuServe's Virtual Village, I know of two others: The Computerized Homebrew Avocation and Obsession Society (CHAOS) in the Food and Drink Network of AOL (homepage at http://hbd.org/chaos) and The Bathtub Brewers of Yahoo's "Yahoo! Clubs" (homepage: http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/bathtubbrewers) CHAOS has been around for about four years now. Bathtub Brewers is about two month's old. BTB is unique in that you need only have web access to join in - A nice feature. There are also "Web Chats" that act sort of like homebrew clubs, and there are homebrew clubs on the web that have virtual features (web-based discussion boards). Stop by Scott Abene's "Skotrat's Brew Chat" at http://www.wwa.com/~skotrat, the Brewery's chat at http://brewery.org. Off the top of my head, I can't think of any of the clubs I've seen discussion boards on (TRASH?), but many use centrallized e-mail distribution list through which they communicate throughout the day. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 00:33:40 +0100 From: "Tom & Dee McConnell" <tdmc at bigfoot.com> Subject: 3 tier brew tree I am trying to find something on the Web that I once found, did not bookmark, and now need to find again. It was a 3 teir brew tree with (at least one of) the arms that could be raised up and down. Seems that the one I saw used a come-a-long to move the keg/burner up and down. If I can find that then I could boil at (almost) ground level and then raise the keg up to empty into fermenter. Figure that will clip off about 30" of height requirement. Anybody know what the URL is for this? Return to table of contents
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