HOMEBREW Digest #2843 Wed 07 October 1998

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		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
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  Solder & Wort (bob_poirier)
  Additional Kunze comments / Oops! ("George De Piro")
  Re: Malt analysis and cloudy beer from munich malt/Kunze Komments (Steve Jackson)
  Whirlpool question ("Spies, James")
  RE: Virtual Homebrew Club ("Houseman, David L")
  Homebrew Festivals (Dan Sullivan)
  mashing and coolers ("Czerpak, Pete")
  You can use copper (John Palmer)
  homebrew competitions (Vachom)
  re: Secodary fermentation: Is it really needed for a Stout? (Mark Tumarkin)
  Re: Lead (John Wilkinson)
  Re: Infected Beer! How do I save some of it? (Tim Anderson)
  reply to: Fermentap Contraption, HBD#2842 (Herbert Bresler)
  Cincy Brewpubs (Jason Hartzler)
  Brewing clip art (Doug Moyer)
  kolsch (Randy Ricchi)
  storing hops/film on beer/starter questions (Al Korzonas)
  fresh hop usage; Safale yeast (Randy Ricchi)
  Back from Lost Wages ("Pat Babcock")
  Back from GABF (Mark Tumarkin)
  Clinitest Truce Declared (Louis Bonham)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 07:54:04 -0500 From: bob_poirier at adc.com Subject: Solder & Wort Greetings! I'm building a copper manifold for my mash/lauter tun AND my boiling kettle. I plan on sweating all the copper pipe and fittings together using LEAD FREE solder. Considering the environment the manifolds will be subjected to (low pH of the mash & wort [compared to my tap water]), is there any chance of potentially harmful substances being leached out of the solder during the mash and boil?? TIA! Brew On & Prosit!! Bob P. East Haven, CT Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 8:42 -0800 From: "George De Piro" <George_De_Piro at berlex.com> Subject: Additional Kunze comments / Oops! Hi all, Steve A. wrote a very thorough review of the Kunze work, _Technology Malting and Brewing_. I would like to add a point or two. Steve pointed out that the index is inadequate because it usually does not list every page on which the search word is found. I'll take his comment a step further and complain that often you cannot find common terms in the index at all! Want to know something about dextrins? Look in the index...damn! Not listed! How about melanoidins? Again, no luck. There are countless other examples. These things are actually discussed in the text but seem to have avoided listing in the index. My next comment is a positive one: the sections on malting are very thorough, and there is even a little bit on home malting near the back of the book. I really appreciate the sections on homebrewing and malting, however brief. Certain other brewing luminaries have been heard to say disparaging things about homebrew (and even micro brew), so to at least get favorable mention from a noted professor is quite nice. There is one point on which I have to question Steve, though: $200?! I paid $138 at Siebel, and heard that I could have saved $10 at Amazon.com. Has the price jumped that much in 8 months? ---------------------------- Dave S. points out that I mistakenly wrote "11% total N" instead of "11% total protein." Damn it, Dave, I'm a chemist, not a, uh, um...sh*t, I guess I should have caught that! A barley with 68.75% total protein might find a market niche with weightlifters and other athletes, though. While I appreciate being called a "bastion of solid information" I do indeed make plenty of errors. I just do reasonably well at keeping them off the air! Have fun! George de Piro (Nyack, NY) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 06:21:50 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve Jackson <stevejackson at rocketmail.com> Subject: Re: Malt analysis and cloudy beer from munich malt/Kunze Komments In HBD #2842 (Oct. 6, 1998), Steve Alexander wrote: >>>> Steve - be careful when pulling the blankets off such blanket statements. Kunze 2.9.1 states "Dark Malt(Munich type) - To produce dark malt all the conditions which lead to the formation of aroma-producing Maillard products (melanoidins) are favoured. These include at processing barley with a higher protein content, [...]". Although having a high protein content isn't equatable to low quality, it does speak to Silent Bob's point. <<<< When I made my original comment about blanket statements re: Munich malt, I was referring to Silent Bob's point that specialty malts often were made from six-row barley. My point was that while some North American maltsters may indeed make Munich malt from six-row, European maltsters generally did not. Sorry if that wasn't clear. Because of the action of amino acids in forming melanoidins, I understand that starting with high-protein barley for making Munich malt is generally beneficial. I don't fully understand how this affects the "end result" in terms of the protein content of the malt that is shipped to the consumer. The topic is something I certainly wouldn't mind learning more about. I'm assuming that enough of the protein is "consumed" during the process of making Munich malt that the protein content is either sufficiently reduced or converted to MMW and LMW proteins by the time the malt is in the consumer's hands that a protein rest is generally not necessary. As I mentioned in my original post, that has certainly been my experience with Durst's Munich malt. Whether that holds for Munich malts from other Continental maltsters, I don't know. -Steve in Indianapolis _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 10:22:36 -0400 From: "Spies, James" <Spies at dhcd.state.md.us> Subject: Whirlpool question All - I'm in the process of converting a keg to a boil kettle, and had a question about trub removal. I know that many people build circular manifolds around the outer edge of the keg, whirlpool briefly by stirring, and then siphon from the edge. Others use a scrubbie-type thingy to strain the wort (though with hop pellets the utility of this method is debatable). I was thinking along another line -- trub *removal*. Assuming one has a fixed center siphon positioned about 1/8" - 1/4" from the bottom of the keg center, and assuming that one uses hop pellets, couldn't an extended whirlpool using a stirring device ala C.D. Pritchard's neato stirrer (http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/boiler.htm) be used to get a nice compact cone of trub-y crud which could then be sucked out through the siphon like a double-wide in a tornado? The concave bottom of the keg would even seem to enhance cone formation. You would theoretically lose minimal wort this way, and the stirrer could be immersed along with the chiller to sanitize it (an immersion chiller instead of a c-flow chiller would be best for this type of setup, because it would get some of the cold break as well). By motorizing the stirrer, and covering the pot while whirlpooling (routing the stirrer through the lid), you could have as long of a whirlpool as you like, and get a great little compact cone. I know my hand-stirred whirlpools never last more than a few minutes, even when I whip the hell out of them. If you could really speed it up, some aeration of the cooled wort would take place as well . . . Anyone have any comments on this system, or is anyone using something like this who could comment on its effectiveness?? TIA, Jay Spies Wishful Thinking Basement Brewery Baltimore, MD Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 11:01:25 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE: Virtual Homebrew Club Gail Elber asks about Virtual homebrew clubs? So how about HBD, where you sent your post? Seems to me that this has all the comraderie, sharing, knowledge, fun, personalities, infighting and cliques of a club. Just send your $10 dues to ... Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 08:29:43 -0700 From: Dan Sullivan <brewlawz at napanet.net> Subject: Homebrew Festivals In HBD #2842, Brandon Brown asked: > I was wondering if anyone has been to a homebrew festival, > what is the atmosphere like, etc? Uh, from what I can remember, Saturday was like a backyard bar-b-que with 300 of my closest friends. Blue sky, mid 80s. 26 clubs, about 700 gallons of homebrew, 3 bands, speakers were Fritz Maytag, Russ Wigglesworth, Martin Lodahl and Byron Burch. Closed to the general public, no commercial beers. Very civilized, but then beer has for centuries been the cornerstone of civilization. It was way civilized, yes. Cheers! Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 12:00:25 -0400 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: mashing and coolers Are there any suggestions as to mail order companies (phone or web addresses are good) that sell cylindrical style picnic coolers for mashing?? I would prefer the round variety to minimize cooling effects for better temp control. Any comments on extraction comparisons between cylindrical and rectangular type coolers are also welcome. I hope to be brewing all grain soon and have yet to decide which to use and find a supplier of the cylindrical type. Pete Czerpak pete.czerpak at siigroup.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 09:21:54 -0700 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: You can use copper Jim writes: I am modifying a 1/2 barrel into a brewing vessel and everything I've read calls for stainless fittings, etc. Please tell me I can use copper. Yes, you can use copper. You will want to rinse it thoroughly after use and you should make your fittings able to be disassembled, but you will not suffer any significant galvanic corrosion problems and any copper that does dissolve will be scrubbed out by the yeast during fermentation. Do not use caustic or bleach based cleaners with copper. John Palmer metallurgist Palmer House Brewery and Smithy http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 11:41:02 -0500 From: Vachom <MVachow at newman.k12.la.us> Subject: homebrew competitions Brandon: I encourage you to attend a homebrew festival/competition in your great city. As I'm sure you know, there is a lively, tradition-steeped brewing community in Chicago. I think you'll find a homebrew festival quite a bit different from your description of the GABF (never been myself) but not without some of the elements you didn't particularly enjoy in Denver. First, at a homebrew festival, you'll find that almost everyone present is invested (with varying degrees of experience) in brewing. I strongly encourage you to serve as an apprentice judge or steward at a festival. You can learn a lot about beer styles and brewing techniques by serving in one of these capacities where the conversation is necessarily about brewing. Homebrew festivals are also an excellent place to meet people from many walks of life. My wife and I are both independent school administrators; we could easily spend all of our time teaching, coaching, meeting with parents, attending school events, and all with pretty much the same kind of people. Yet we, like you, live in a city, New Orleans, with an extraordinary variety of people, cultures, traditions. I've found homebrewing and homebrewing festivals to be an excellent common ground for meeting people from all kinds of backgrounds and for broadening my appreciation of the city (and other cities, for that matter) and its people--from investment bankers to cabbies to teachers to dilettantes. You will, however, find one of the same elements that you didn't find particularly charming at the GABF. That is, some people at homebrew festivals drink a lot, in an all-day kind of way. Obscene, profane behavior is universally frowned upon, but I've been to festivals where things got a little, shall we say, boisterous in a jolly kind of way. If that's not your bag, you might want to go to the festival in the early part of the day. Most festival organizers ask for an entrance fee, either to get in the door or to enter a beer for competition. Once inside the event, however, festival goers are typically presented with a kind of beer Nirvana. Organizers often get the local micros to provide free kegs of beer which flow non-stop and get local restaurateurs to provide free or dirt cheap food. There are also often lots of homebrews available for tasting. All of this beer is hard to resist, and some people don't or don't intend to. One of the best things about the local homebrew festival here it that it's held not in a sterile hotel conference facility but in the Deutsches Haus, a venerable old building on the outside, so gruesomely re-appointed with faux wood paneling and linoleum on the inside that I find myself immediately (and fondly) transported back to the VFW halls of my Michigan youth. This place also boasts an extraordinary and dangerous array of German beers on tap. I couldn't resist a draught Optimator or two at last year's festival. Beers at the regular Deutsches Haus taps went for a nominal few bucks; outside in the patio, a local micro (Acadian Brewing) that brews excellent German lagers was pouring an unlimited torrent of their helles bock--free. Luckily, I had only come for the awards. These were definitely NOT all-day drinking kinds of beers nor were they resistable. I enjoy going to homebrew festivals. I don't choose to go all day--my schedule doesn't permit it nor do I trust myself around so much good beer--but they're fun and potentially very educational; check one out. Happy brewing, Mike New Orleans, LA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 12:54:11 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re: Secodary fermentation: Is it really needed for a Stout? Darrell wrote : "I have been experimenting, as of late, with peat-smoked grain, and presently have a Smoked Stout (more dry than sweet, I hope) in the primary. And, I was wondering if , once I make sure all of the yeasties have stopped their good work (without which, we'd be very sad) can I not just bottle? I suppose I'll get more stuff on the bottom of the bottles,..and I suppose that I can under do the amount of corn sugar, just is case .... Any thoughts?" Yes, you can bottle directly from the primary. After, of course, being sure that your fermentation is complete. (ha! I'll bet at least some of you thought I would insert a reference here to methods for determing fermentation completion - uh, uh, I ain't gonna go there). Racking into a second vessel for additional fermentation will leave a lot of the trub behind and also help clarify the beer as additional time passes. But it is not necessary. If you are careful racking the beer into your bottling bucket, you shouldn't end up with any trub in your bottles. Just keep the end of the tube enough above the cake of trub so that it isn't picked up. If you use clear tubing you can see it get cloudy when you get too close to the bottom. Stop racking when it gets too low, you will leave a small amount of beer behind, but very little. The residue in your bottles should be yeast only, with little, or hopefully no, trub or break material. If you are sure fermentation has stopped you won't need to lower the amount of priming sugar. Just exactly how much to use in the first place is another issue, but 3/4 of a cup is a standard amount if you don't want to calculate the exact amount necessary for a certain CO2 level needed for a particular style. Good luck with the Smoked Stout, sounds yummy. Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 98 12:19:26 CDT From: jwilkins at wss.dsccc.com (John Wilkinson) Subject: Re: Lead Tim Green wrote: >Just because lead shot has been used for hunting for many years, as one >person has pointed out, does NOT make it safe. I pointed out the hunting connection and did not mean to imply that lead was not toxic. My point was that a few pellets were unlikely to add enough lead to worry about. John Wilkinson - Grapevine, Texas - jwilkins at wss.dsccc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 10:39:24 -0700 (PDT) From: Tim Anderson <timator at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Infected Beer! How do I save some of it? Kenneth Sullivan said this here stuff: > Subject: Infected Beer! How do I save some of it? > [deletia] > I brewed St. Pats brown ale extract kit and made the mistake of trying to add > some water to the secondary. THe water must have sucked some nasties in with > it and now I have about 3 colonies of 'mold' growing on the surface :-( > > Does anybody out know if I can siphon out from underneath the surface and > salvage a large portion of the beer? Should I assume that the infection is > throughout the beer and must be tossed? > > The beer had fermented out when I added the water, now the colonies are > really funky looking and gaining mass, but just on the surface. > The large colony is about the size of a dime. > > I added water to a different batch and it's just happy, no infection. [more deletia] First, be sure it's really an infection. If it's an "old penny" brown kind of color and not too thick and not hairy, it's probably yeast. This would be a good thing. I've added water, as you described, without problem. But I've also had a couple of infections over the years. There weren't any floaties, just ovecarbonation and a truly horrible, nasty taste and smell. Now if I need to top up, I boil and chill first. tim == Please ignore the advertisement below. Thank you. _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 13:42:31 -0400 From: Herbert Bresler <bresler.7 at osu.edu> Subject: reply to: Fermentap Contraption, HBD#2842 CHUCK MORFORD asked about opinions and experience with the "Fermentap Contraption" >I was wondering if any of you are using the "Fermentap" valve and stand, >and what are your general opinions? Chuck, I tried to use the Fermentap a few times, but found it more trouble than it was worth. I always ferment in glass, and I thought the concept was a good one -- invert the carboy in a stable stand and use it like a conical fermenter. Harvest yeast. Get rid of trub. Transfer with gravity instead of having to syphon. Sounded great, so I tried it. Spent roughly $30 for it and the stand and plastic syphon tube required. I thought it did not work very well. The main trouble is that the neck of a carboy is not steep enough to make trub and yeast removal really work. Another problem is that the CO2 outlet is way up inside the carboy and not accessible for cleaning. Even though the little plastic filter thingy was in place, I have had the CO2 outlet become clogged with debris from the krausen. If my regular air lock becomes clogged or contaminated with krausen gunk, I just pull it off and put on a clean one -- very easy. I also found the valve assembly difficult to keep clean and difficult to access (under the carboy inside the ring-stand). The manufacturer also says that you can use the bend in the plastic tube as an airlock, but active fermentation blows the liquid out in a matter of a few minutes. This means that you must connect a piece of tubing to the outlet and put the end in a bowl of water for an air lock. I also did not like manipulating (inverting) a carboy full of wort with the Fermentap on top; it's more that just a little unwieldy. This is not to say that it is impossible to work with. With perseverance you could probably get it to work (and even harvest CO2 for purging air from your secondary). I know of one home brewer who loves the Fermentap. For me, the whole contraption is just too complicated and too cumbersome, and IMO it doesn't work all that well. YMMV. I'm back to good old air lock (or blow-off tube when needed). I get my CO2 for purging from a CO2 bottle and regulator. I have no trouble syphoning brew. All these things are simple and familiar. The Fermentap was not simple or familiar, and I found it was taking away some of my enjoyment that I get from home brewing. I do like the carboy ring-stand, though, it makes a great carboy drying stand. Good luck and good fermenting, Herb Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 16:16:56 -0500 (CDT) From: Jason Hartzler <jehartzl at mail.ilstu.edu> Subject: Cincy Brewpubs Anyone with any recommendations for Brewpubs, Microbreweries, Microbeer bars in Cincinnati. I had asked before, and made it to BrewWorks last year, which was a fine establishment. But much to my dismay, they have closed (someone told me the building is being turned into a Chuck E Cheese of all things). Please email privately. Thanks, jeh Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 18:03:21 -0500 From: Doug Moyer <shyzaboy at geocities.com> Subject: Brewing clip art Folks, I am trying to make up business cards and flyers for our local homebrew club, and accordingly need a logo. Does anyone have any good sources on the web for quality clip art related to brewing? (Glasses of beer, hops, barley, etc.) I would prefer some bold black and white images or line drawings. FWIW, I promise not to use the clip art in any commercial fashion.... - -- Brew on, Doug Moyer Star City Brewers Guild: web: http://hbd.org/starcity list: mailto:starcity-list at hbd.org Pix of baby Keira Moyer (and my brewing setup): web: http://www.rev.net/~kmoyer Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 19:10:59 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: kolsch There's been a lot of discussion about altbiers lately, but what I'd like to know is what is the preferred fermentation temperature for kolsch? I'm thinking 68 - 70 F, but now I wonder if kolsch yeast is like alt yeast, which is able to tolerate much cooler ferm temps. Anyone? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 18:14:27 -0500 (CDT) From: Al Korzonas <korz at xnet.com> Subject: storing hops/film on beer/starter questions Since there appears to be a little lull in the HBD, I'll take this opportunity to catch up on a number of topics that I've been storing away, waiting for others to answer. Bill writes: > I know of an area near where I live that has many wild hops >growing, and it looks like they need to be harvested. I used some last >year and was reasonably happy with the bittering/taste/aroma. Since little >of my brewing is judged by professionals, I have plans to brew many >batches of beer with these hops. > The problem is how to store them so they can last up to a year. >The best solution, in a general sense, would be to harvest, and then >compress the hops into "chunks" of maybe 1-3 oz's, and seal them in >freezer bags. > So, how can I compress these hops? And, what is the best way to >seal them up? (snip) Freezer bags are nothing more than High-density Polyethylene (HDPE) and storing hops in them is not much better than a paper bag (okay, a lot better, but still far from good). If you can smell the hops through the bag, air is getting in and aromatics are getting out. Freshops in Philomath, OR (they have ads in all the HB magazines) will sell you oxygen-barrier bags, but you will need a heat-sealer to seal them. I've got a cheap vaccum sealer from an appliance store, but for even less money ($20), Walgreens will sell you a "Eurosealer" which will work (although sometimes it requires you to go pretty slow). Alternately, you can simply use a glass jar with a gasketted lid (like a Mason Jar, for example). Personally, I purge the oxygen out of the bags with CO2 before sealing. Any air you trap inside the bag will eventually degrade the hops (although far less than using an HDPE bag). One HBD poster (years ago, suggested making plugs out of whole hops by using a plastic pipe and (I believe) a wooden plunger. You might consider that in addition to the oxygen-barrier bags or glass jar. *** Joe writes: >To: Peter Perez > The thin film on your porter is a contaminant, the >dreaded Acetic Acid Bacteria,"Acetobacter". It's the same >stuff that turns wine into wine vinegar. Your beer will >slowly get sour. If you ever wanted to make Kosher Dill >Pickles, you need that bacteria to get it to sour. Not necessarily. Many benign yeasts and some mildly unpleasant moulds will also look like this so. If the beer is getting sour, then Joe is probably right and I think the beer is probably a loss. However, those benign yeasts will do nothing other than give you an unsightly ring-around-the-collar in the bottle. Most don't change the flavour/aroma of the beer noticeably. *** David writes: >Question the first >If wort for a starter that has been aerated by vigorous shaking is >then sealed in bottle and sterilised in autoclave, pressure cooker or >canner is the effective aeration affected by the process? >I suspect not, because the oxygen has no where to go unless some of >the components of the wort are oxidised in the heating process.? You are right... it wouldn't. In an open boil, the oxygen "boils" off because as the water warms, it will hold very little dissolved oxygen. If you boil it under pressure, I believe that quite a bit of that oxygen will stay in solution and oxidise the wort (bad). Then again, when you sterilise wort in a pressure cooker, you don't seal the containers until they are partly cooled down. Otherwise, the containers (which are made to hole a partial vaccum, not pressure) will burst. >Question the second >Where in a starter at high krausen are the majority of the yeast that >we desire for pitching? >In the foam? >In the liquor ? >In the sediment? >in other words should one carefully decant off the supernatant and >then just pitch the sediment/cake or should one give the lot a good >swirl and pitch everything? At high kraeusen, some of the yeast will be in each of the three. A highly-flocculent, true "top-fermenting" ale yeast will have more of the yeast in the foam and less in the liquor (liquid) and sediment (most of the sediment will be dormant or dead yeast). With a lager yeast, most of the live yeast will be split between the liquor and sediment. When the yeast starter is at high kraeusen, generally I would recommend swirling and pitching the whole lot. To get the benefits of a BIG starter without adding a lot of spent wort to my beer, I often make up a big starter (like two or four liters), let that ferment out so all the yeast settles, pour off the spent wort the day before brewing and add 500ml of fresh wort to get the yeast into top condition for brewing day. This way, I have the equivalent of 2 or 4 liters of yeast, but only throw in 500ml of partially-spent wort. Mind you, you can't let yeast sit around like this (fermented out) for a long time. I try to time it so that the yeast just settle shortly before brewing, so they sit idle for no more than a day. This gives the fastest starts and the most healthy ferments (fewest unwanted byproducts like acetaldehyde, diacetyl, sulphur compounds, etc.). Al. Al Korzonas, Palos Hills, IL korz at xnet.com http://www.brewinfo.com/brewinfo/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 19:21:50 -0400 From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: fresh hop usage; Safale yeast After reading about Safale yeast a few weeks ago, I thought I'd try it out. Although I almost always use pure liquid yeast cultures, I'm always on the lookout for good quality dry yeast for those times when I just don't feel up to building starter cultures. I was also intrigued about using hops fresh from the vine, without drying them first. I decided to brew my "Fallfest Harvest Ale" using fresh hops for flavor and aroma (20 min & 10 min additions) and pitching with Safale yeast. I made two batches, both six gallons, both 1.064 OG, 41 IBU's ( I used German Northern Brewer for bittering). One batch I used 4 oz by wt. of fresh picked Cascade at each of the two late additions. The other batch I used the same amounts, but of Tettnang. The hop character is quite a bit like Michael Jackson described it in his web site article about the English brewery that does the same thing. Fresh, lively, sort of a citrus tang. Very nice, not harsh at all like I feared. The Safale yeast was a really nice surprise, too. I'd say it has the same flavor characteristics as Wyeast 1056, although it's not as attenuative. My beers both ended up at 1.018, and I mashed at 150 F dropping to 146 over a 90 minute period. Y1056 would have taken that wort down to 1.014 or 5, in my experience. The Safale fermented really fast at 65 deg F, after a not too quick lag time, and then dropped quite bright in a few days. I'll definitely use it again for american pale ales. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Oct 1998 20:28:11 -0500 From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at oeonline.com> Subject: Back from Lost Wages Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Well, Kim and I are back from our vacation in Las Vegas. We had a blast! We were told of a few brew pubs by the Northwest agent on our way out of the state. Too bad! We only knew of one: The Holy Cow. Let me tell you about THAT experience... Saturday, 10/3, Kim and I decided to walk from the Imperial Palace down to the HC for a bite of lunch and to sample their brews. We arrived at about 12:40, and were greeted by a "waiter" within a reasonable amount of time. "Smoking or non?" he asked. "Non, please" "Sorry: we have no nonsmoking tables available. Perhaps you'd like to sit near the bar?" "Sure! That'd be fine." Kim and I sat there for 15 minutes waiting for a menu. The bar is outside of the dining area of the pub. Apparently, being off their turf put us out of their mind, too. Finally, we went back to the entrance to the pub area to accept a smoking table. It didn't appear that anyone was smoking in the restaurant area, and we figured we'd be safe. There was a table for four and three or four small tables (for two) open in the pub proper. "Can I help you?" "We decided to take a smoking table after all." "I'm sorry, we have nothing available. "WHAT?!? There's an open table right there!" "But what if a group of four come in? Where will I seat _them_?" Regardless that there were still the two-seat tables remaining, I was aghast: "Fine. We'll take our money elsewhere." Good beer or not, Kim and I left never to return. Ever. I doubt that the beer - no matter how good it might be - could possibly get the foul aftertaste of this "service" out of my mouth... See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at oeonline.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org AOL FDN Beer & Brewing Maven BrewBeerd at aol.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 21:05:02 -0400 From: Mark Tumarkin <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Back from GABF I got back yesterday from the trip to Denver for the GABF, and even after all that quality beer time, one of the first things I did was to go online and get the HBD. It was great to have a bunch of them waiting to go through. Much better than those few times, like that day last month, when there were problems and No Digest. Are we addicted, or what? Thanks to you all for the HBD, especially The Janitors. And thanks to Brian Rezac for his hospitality at the GABF. I know some of you have bad feelings towards the AHA, but Paul, Brian, and the rest of the folks at the AHA sure did a great job with the GABF. It was a great place to share phenomenal beers with friends, I enjoyed meeting some of you for the first time, and renewing acquaintance with others of you. The beer was incredible. Too many to sample all of them but I gave it my best shot. It's amazing how some beers stand head and shoulders above the rest, even with palate fatigue. Just a few of my favorites - Bell's Two Hearted Ale from Kalamazoo Brewing, nobody asked me but it was my personal choice for BOS, even though it only took a Silver for IPA. Centennial flavor that just didn't quit, over a deep malty base. Hearthside Wheatwine from Steelhead Brewing - took Gold for Other Strong Ales. Truly outstanding, not even out done by Bearded Pat's, the Gold for Barleywines (and itself a great brew).. The Liberty Ale was as fresh and crisp as I have ever had it, and Sierra Nevada's Harvest Ale made with lots of fresh, undried Cascades. Interestingly, it had very little grapefruit character. I'm not usually a fan of fruit beers, but there were some spectaculr ones - New Glaurus' Raspberry Tart, Thunder Canyon's Gold winning Bees 'n Berry, and Luna de Miel (actually a raspberry meade from Bluegrass Brewing - it was entered as a fruit beer but disqualified). I better stop now, or I'll just keep going, I haven't even mentioned the great porters, the malty stouts. The GABF was a chance to celebrate some of the truly inspired (and inspiring) brewers out there. And another high point for a Florida boy was driving up to the Rocky Mtns National Park and hiking among the turning Aspens and having a lightly falling snow frost everything white. Spectacular! So many beers, so little time. Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 06 Oct 1998 21:30:10 -0500 From: Louis Bonham <lkbonham at phoenix.net> Subject: Clinitest Truce Declared Hi folks: For all of you who have wanted to see a cease-fire in the never-ending HBD Clinitest jihad, your wish is granted. I am please to announce that Dave Burley and Al Korzonas have agreed to a truce in their often-animated HBD discussions on Clinitest. Under the terms of the cease-fire, which was brokered by the HBD Steering Committee, I am working with both of them to come up with an agreed testing methodology, and then I will be doing the testing independently of them and writing the results up for my BT column. (If there are any of you who wish to run the tests in parallel with me so that we have additional data points, please drop me a line.) My price of admission for doing this, however, is that both Dave and Al agree to cease posting on this subject in the HBD until the experiment is completed and the results are released. Further, each of them have given the HBD Janitor the plenary authority to cancel posts from either of them that violate the cease fire. The Steering Committee has been concerned that the level of acrimony accompanying this debate had reached counterproductive levels, but as we have stated repeatedly we do not want to censor any beer-related posts and will resort to censorship as a very last resort. In this case, our arrangement will hopefully resolve the issue productively while returning the HBD to a somewhat more relaxed (and collegial) tone. Louis K. Bonham lkbonham at phoenix.net Member, HBD Steering Committee Return to table of contents
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